The photo above, taken in an open stall in Istanbul, shows the grains, or seeds of the “grain apple,” or
pomegranate. These seeds, encased in sacs of juice, are called arils and are held in place inside the
outer skin by thin bitter membranes. Good W ithSweet or savoury dishes (the juicy flesh surrounding the
individual seeds has a sweet, slightly astringent flavour that
complements both). Green citrus herbs such as rosemary , lemon thyme or sage. Black olives, red onion, greens, nuts, citrus fruits. Fresh cheeses such as cottage cheese, Neufchâtel, goat
cheese. Other fruit, such as mangoes, ra spberries, peaches, apricots,
nectarines. Moist, soft-textured fish such as catfish, mackerel, tilapia. Pr eparation
The rind and the walls, or septa, that divide the inside sections of
pomegranate are very bitter , so the glistening ruby red see ds must be
separated from both before usin g. Using a paring knife, cut of f the crown. Score the fruit in  quarters and p ull apart the 4 sections. Peel away the inner
walls co vering the seeds and tu rn the quarters inside out so the seeds will
pop out. p o m e g r a n a t e  p e p p e r  j e l l y
The ruby  r ed colour of the pomegranate juice makes this a vibrant jelly for
a ho liday table. I also use it in the summer with grilled vegetables and
chicken or fish. If you have a juice machine, you can juice fr esh
pomegranate by separating the seeds following the dir ections on pineapple
mustar d . I  usually pur chase the juice f or this popular jelly because it is
always r eadily available.MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS (1.25 L)
1–1/2 cups (375 mL) pomegranate juice
1 cup (250 mL) r ed wine vinegar
2 to 4 jalapeño peppers, halved lengthwise and seeded
5 cups (1.25 L) granulated sugar
1 pouch (3 oz/85 mL) liquid pectin
5 tiny r ed hot peppers, optional
 
1. In a sa ucepan, combine pomegranate juice, vinegar and jalapeno peppers. Bring to a boil  over high heat. Cover , reduce heat and simmer for 10
minutes. Strain into a 4-cup (1 L) bowl, discarding peppers. Li quid should
measure 2 cups (500 mL). 2. Heat five 1-cup (250 mL) jar s in boiling water , and scald the lids, lifter ,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 3. In  a Maslin pa n or Dutch oven , bring the strained pomegranate liquid to a
boil over high h eat. Stir in the sugar , one cup at a time, stirri ng until the
sugar dissolves before adding the next cup. Bring to a rolling boil, stirring
often. Add pectin, stir and retu rn to a full rolling boil. Boil fo r 1 minute,
stirring constantly . 4. Remo ve pan from heat and s kim of f foam. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-
inch (5 mm) hea dspace. If desired, add a whole tiny red pepper  to each jar .W ipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to the hot
water bath, topping up with ho t water if necessary . Bring to a full rolling
boil and process jars for 5 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 5. T ransfer to a cooling rack to cool completely . Check seals, label and store
in a cool place for up to 1 year . Use: Th is jelly is delicious serv ed over brie baked in the oven to soften it. W alnuts and almonds make a very nice accompaniment in salads, sauces
or dressings, or with roasts. p o m e g r a n a t e  m o l a s s e s
Her e is another example of a ho memade version being so much better than
stor e-bought—if you can even find pomegranate molasses anywher e other
than in Middle Eastern markets or online. I fell in love with the f lavour on a
r ecent v isit to Istanbul. Of course, I br ought a bottle back and used it as a
glaze and a flav ouring in drinks and lamb stew and even in sal ad dr essing. It wasn’ t long befor e I set to work on my own r ecipe. I usually make half of
the r ecip e below because I don’ t pr ocess the jars. Y ou have th e option of
making half the r ecipe and storing it in the r efrigerator or water -bath
pr ocessing the lar ger amount so that you can stor e it in a cupboar d.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (1 L)
8 cups (2 L) pomegranate juice
2 cups (500 mL) granulated sugar
grated rind and juice of 2 lemons
 
1. In  a Maslin pa n or Dutch oven , combine pomegranate juice, sugar , lemon
rind and  lemon juice. Bring to a  boil over high heat, stirring constantly until
sugar is dissolved. Reduce heat and simmer gently , stirring only
occasionally , for 45 to 60 minutes. W atch the pan carefully as the time
approaches the 3/4-hour mark: the liquid should be reduced by  about halfand the syrup should be thick but not sticky . A thermometer will register
between 100 and 104°F (37.7 and 40°C). 2. Mean while, h eat five 1-cup (250 mL) jars in boiling water , and scald the
lids, lifter , funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 3. Remo ve pan from heat and s kim of f foam. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-
inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe r ims, top with flat lids and screw on metal
rings. Return jars to the hot water bath, topping up with h ot water if
necessary . Bring to a full rolling  boil and process jars for 5 minu tes ( Boiling
W ater Method, Step by Step ). 4. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . Use: As a sweetener for sauces, dressing; in drinks instead of grenadine;
for a finishing glaze for roasted vegetables or meats. g r i l l e d  p o m e g r a n a t e  p e p p e r  p o r k
The frui ty , sweet-tart flavour of the Pomegranate Pepper Jelly cuts thr ough
the richness of t he r oasted pork in this dish. In addition, the colour gives an
appetizing glow to the pork slice s. For a casual lunch or dinner , I serve the
meat sliced on pita r ounds wi th gr eens and shr edded or ch opped fr esh
vegetables fr om  the gar den. Glazed pork also makes an elegant main dish
for mor e formal dinners. Rimmed baking sheet, lightly oiled
Pr eheat oven br oiler or barbecue
MAKES 4 T O 6 SER VINGS
1 lb (500 g) boneless pork tenderloin or lamb loin
1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil1/2 cup (125 mL) Pomegranate Pepper Jelly , divided
1 tbsp (15 mL) fr eshly squeezed lemon juice
4 Gr eek-style pitas
2 cups (500 mL) fr esh baby spinach leaves
4 tomatoes, cut into eight wedges
fr esh mint leaves, optional
 
1. Arrange pork on prepared ba king sheet. In a bowl, combine 1/4 cup (50
mL) of the Pomegranate Pepper Jelly with lemon juice. Pour over pork and
let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes. 2. C ook pork on top rack under broiler or on the barbecue fo r 4 minutes
each sid e or until done to your liking. Slice into 16 slices and toss with
remaining Pomegranate Pepper Jelly . 3. On each pita,  arrange 1/2 cup (125 mL) spinach leaves. T op with tomato
wedges and 3 o r 4 slices of pork. Sprinkle mint leaves over to p, if using. Serve open-faced and let guests roll as a wrap or eat as a salad.D r i e d  F r u i t s
IT’S INTERESTING THA T A FRUIT  that has already been preserved by
drying s hould b e used in preser ves, but this too is a time-honoured winter
tradition. Perhaps initiated by industrious cooks looking for interesting
recipes a t a time of year when there weren’ t many fresh ingredients, many
recipes for jam, spreads, liqueu r and even wine call for the use of dried
fruits. The dryi ng proc ess concentrates  the flavour and sugar of the fru it, making it
taste stronger and allowing it to be stored for up to a year without
refrigeration. Dehydration (the removal of water) destroys m ost of the
vitamin C, but most other nutrie nts—vitamins A and most Bs, as  well as the
minerals calcium , iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, sod ium, copper
and manganese—are retained. Commercially dried fruit may contain added
sulphur dioxide, which keeps the bright colour of the fresh fruit. Non-
sulphured dried fruit is available; it tends to be darker in co lour , but is
favoured by individuals who may be sensitive to additives or  who suf fer
from asthma. Raisins, dates, figs, prunes and apricots are the long-time favourite dried
fruits used in preserving, but raspberries, blackberries, cherries, blueberries,
mangoes and bananas, in addi tion to apples, peaches and to matoes, are
popular now as well. Pur chasing/Storing
Some commercially dried fruits are dipped in sulfites, sulfates or ascorbic
acid to keep them from darkening during the drying process. If you are
sensitive to these chemicals, choose naturally dehydrated fruit.When fruit is dried or dehydrated, the removal of water preserves the fruit
so that it can be stored at room temperature for long periods of  time. Keep
dried foods in moisture-proof containers in a cool, dark place. Good W ith
Custards and baked fruit dishes such as compotes. Baked goods like fruitcakes, fruit puddings, buns and
cookies. Sweet seasonin gs such as van illa, ginger , cinnamon and
nutmeg. Rich meats such as goose, duck, lamb and pork.D r i e d  A p r i c o t s
Apricot purée and preserves are popular with pastry chefs because they are
so versatile: as a  glaze, a filling , an icing and as a sweet-tart flavouring. In
the wint er , when  fresh apricots are not available, I use the dried fruit in both
sweet and savoury recipes. T o Soak Dried Apricots: In a Maslin pan or canning kettle, cover dried apricots with warm water . Let
stand at room temperature for 1 hour or overnight. Bring the apricots and their steeping water to a
boil over medium-high heat. Boil, stirring occasionally , for 1 hour or until the apricots are plump and
about half of the water has been absorbed. s p i c e d  a p r i c o t  a n d  o r a n g e  b u t t e r
This “butter” is a modern version of an old-fashioned “fruit cheese” r ecipe
that was boiled down until it r esembled soft cheese. I like the l ighter , mor e
versatile butter r esult fr om my v ersion; I use fruit pectin crystals to make it
set w ithout the h ours of boiling and stirring. Silky smooth and t art-sweet, it
may be used straight out of the jar as a filling, an icing or fla vouring, or
thinned with orange juice and used as a glaze. It serves as a tasty and
nutritious spr ead for br eakfast scones. If I have a jar of this in the pantry , I
find I use it often in savoury dishes, as well as in baking.MAKES 7 CUPS (1.75 L)
1 lb (500 g) dried apricots (3–1/2 cups/875 mL)
4 cups (1 L) water grated rind and juice of 2 oranges
1 tbsp (15 mL) fr eshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 tsp (2 mL) gr ound cinnamon
1/4 tsp (1 mL) gr ound allspice
1 pkg (2 oz/57 g) fruit pectin crystals
4 cups (1 L) granulated sugar
 
1. Soak apricots . 2. Heat seven 1- cup (250 mL) ja rs in boiling water , and scald the lids, lifter ,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 3. In a food pro cessor , workin g in batches, purée the apricot s with their
cooking liquids. 4. M easure the apricot purée and round out to the full cup , reserving
leftover purée for another use. Y ou should have 4 cups (1 L) ap ricot purée;
if not, use 1 cup (250 mL) sugar for every 1 cup (250 mL) purée. Return the
purée to  the Maslin pan. Add orange rind, orange juice, cinnamon, allspice
and pectin. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly . The mixture will be very
thick and must be stirred const antly to keep it from scorching. Stir in the
sugar , 1 cup (250 mL) at a time , stirring to dissolve before add ing the nextcup. Bri ng to a boil or an inten se bubble, stirring constantly and using a
long-handled spoon so as not to burn yourself because the thick mixture
spits. 5. F ill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. Run a thin non-
metallic utensil around the insid e of the jar to allow air to escape. Add more
hot butte r , if necessary , to leave a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe rims,
top with flat lids and screw on m etal rings. Return jars to the hot water bath,
topping up with hot water if necessary . Bring to a full rolling boil and
process jars for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 6. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . D r i e d  a n d  F r e s h  F i g s
W ith some 700 varieties, figs (Ficus carica)  are one of the earliest fruits
cultivated. The medical use of fi gs was already being noted as early as 2900
BC in Sumeria. Every inhabitant of Athens was a philosykos,  which literally
translated means  “a friend of the fig.” Thought to be native to western Asia,
figs spread to all the countrie s around the Mediterranean and quickly
became a staple there. The Spaniards brought figs to the Americas in the
early 16 th century , and Mission Figs travelled to California with missionary
fathers. Although considered a fruit, the fig is actually a receptacle that encloses many tiny flowers that grow
and mature inside the fruit. Fresh and dried figs for sale in an open stall in T urkey . The fresh variety is likely Kalamata Black  or
Large Gr eek Black,  which splits when ripe and is sweet with dark red pulp. Clockwise from foreground are Adriatic:  widely available, its sugar content makes it a good
preserving fig; Calimyrna:  actually a Smyrna fig that was imported by a San Joaquin V alley grower
around the turn of the last century and simply renamed in honour of its new home; Mission:  matures
to a deep purple-black and dries to a rich black. o r a n g e  f i g  s p r e a d
Orange and r osemary combine i n this honeyed and chunky spr e ad to give it
both a nip and an ar omatic spike, which is useful for sweet a nd savoury
dishes. It may seem tedious to chop the walnuts twice, but it is the
combination of fine and coarse  nuts that keeps the textur e of this spr ead
inter esting. Make extra for gifts at holiday time. MAKES 5 CUPS (1.25 L)
2 cups (500 mL) finely chopped walnuts
2 cups (500 mL) coarsely chopped walnuts
2 cups (500 mL) chopped dried or fr esh figs
2 cups (500 mL) liquid honey
1/2 cup (125 mL) fr eshly squeezed orange juice
2 tbsp (25 mL) grated orange rind
2 tsp (10 mL) crushed dried r osemary1/2 tsp (2 mL) coarse sea salt
 
1. Heat five 1-cup (250 mL) jar s in boiling water , and scald the lids, lifter ,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 2. In a bowl, c ombine walnuts, figs, honey , orange juice, orange rind,
rosemary and sea salt. Mix well. 3. F ill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. Run a thin non-
metallic utensil around the insid e of the jars to allow air to escape, and add
more spread, if necessary , to leave a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe rims,
top with flat lids and screw on m etal rings. Return jars to the hot water bath,
topping up with hot water if necessary . Bring to a full rolling boil and
process jars for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 4. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . Use: Spoon over brie or other s oft cheese and warm gently in the oven or
leave out at room temperature and serve with crackers or baguette slices. Serve w ith an assortment of ch eeses and fruit at the end of a  meal. T oss
with soy sauce o r orange juice and use as a sauce for stir-fry dishes (see
Honeyed Fig Chicken Stir-Fry , next page). Serve as a spread for
cinnamon toast, waf fles or French toast. h o n e y e d  f i g  c h i c k e n  s t i r - f r y
The fig spr ead k eeps the chicken fr om drying out in this fast and tasty dish. Served o ver rice and with braise d winter gr eens, a gr een salad or fr esh fruit
(depending on the season), this is a r ecipe that I have used many times for
entertaining. I have also grilled and r oasted chicken, meat, fish and
vegetables using the fig mixtur e combined in step 1 of this r ecipe.MAKES 4 SER VINGS
1/4 cup (50 mL) Orange Fig Spr ead
2 tbsp (25 mL) soy sauce
2 tbsp (25 mL) chicken br oth or orange juice
1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
2 tsp (10 mL) toasted sesame oil
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 piece (1 inch/2.5 cm) fr esh gingerr oot, thinly sliced
2 chicken br east filets, sliced in half and cut into strips
 
1. In a bowl, combine fig spread, soy sauce and chicken broth. Set aside. 2. In a w ok, he at olive oil and sesame oil over high heat. Add garlic and
ginger a nd cook for 30 seconds. Using tongs, remove and reserve. Add
chicken slices and cook, stirring  constantly , for 2 minutes or until chicken is
browned on all sides. 3. A dd r eserved garlic and ginger and Orange Fig Spread mixture and heat
through.m i n c e m e a t
Once made with minced or gr ound beef (sometimes mutton), su et and dried
fruit—with sug ar , spices and brandy or sherry added fo r flavour—
mincemeat is a traditional holid ay sweet tart or pie filling dating fr om as
early as 15th-century England. At first, vinegar and wine, and later alcohol
and sugar , served to pr eserve the meat. Modern adaptations om it both the
meat and the sue t, but I have r etained the latter to give a rich, m oist textur e
and flavour to my version. This r ecipe uses the W inter Pear Chutney , but you can substitute the same
amount of any of the followi ng pr eserves fr om this book: Crabapple
Chutney , Country-Style Chutney , Ginger ed Autumn Conserve , Cinnamon-
Scented Parsnip  Pear Jam , Blueberry Conserve , Gooseberry and Almond
Relish , Brandied Melon Jam  or Peach and Onion Chutney . It’ s easy  to make this mincem eat because every ingr edient is simply
measur ed and added to a lar ge glass or stainless steel mixing bowl and
macerated or allowed to sit and meld befor e packing into sterilized jars. If
stor ed in the r efrigerator , the mixtur e will keep for a couple of months. MAKES 8 CUPS (2 L)
2 cups (500 mL) coarsely chopped apples
2 cups (500 mL) W inter Pear Chutney  (see substitutions above)
1 cup (250 mL) dark raisins
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped dried apricots
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped dried figs or dates
1/2 cup (125 mL) dried cranberries or cherries
1/4 cup (50 mL) dried currants
1/4 cup (50 mL) whole mixed chopped candied peel
4 oz (125 g) chopped or shr edded suet
1 cup (250 mL) lightly packed br own sugar grated rind and juice of 1
orangegrated rind and juice of 1 lemon
2 tsp (10 mL) gr ound allspice
1/2 tsp (2 mL) gr ound cinnamon
1/4 tsp (1 mL) gr ound nutmeg
1/4 cup (50 mL) sherry or brandy
 
1. In  a lar ge mixing bowl or stainless steel pot, combine a pples, pear
chutney raisins, apricots, figs, cranberries, currants, candied peel, suet,
brown sugar , rind and juice of orange and lemon, allspice, cin namon and
nutmeg. Stir well and drizzle sherry over top. Let the mixture m acerate in a
cool place, stirring every other day for 1 week. If it gets too dry add more
sherry to keep it moist. 2. A fter the wee k, sterilize four 1-pint (2-cup/500 mL jars ( Boiling W ater
Method, Step by Step ). Pack the mincemeat and juices into the hot jars,
leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe rims, top with flat lids and
screw on  metal rings. Cool the jars, label and store in the refrig erator for 2
to 3 months.W i n t e r  P e a r s
SOME V ARIET IES OF PEARS  need at least 2 m onths in cold storage in
order to ripen properly when bro ught out of the cold; we call those varieties
winter pears. Most are late-fall-harvesting pears that are immediately put
into cold storage. W inter pears  may require some ripening at home after
being held in cold storage: place them in a paper bag and store in a dry area
at ro om temperature for 2 to 3 days. Do not store near apples, which emit a
natural gas that speeds up their ripening. Good Pr eserving V arieties
Anjou:  A lar ge, plump, egg-shaped variety with abundant juice and flavour . Sweet a nd juicy ; best for jams and preserves. Green and Red Anjou pears
do not change colour as they ripen; both are grown in Oregon and
W ashington. Bosc:  L ong and lean, with an elong ated neck topped by a long, curved
stem. Ripe Bosc pears are a cinnamon colour with a russet blush. Slightly
firm, dense and spicy-tasting flesh make Bosc pears a good canning variety . Comice:  Some green with a red blush; plump and round with a very short,
protruding neck . Considered the sweetest and juiciest pear; sw eet, buttery
and abundantly juicy flesh makes it best for chutneys and sauces. w i n t e r  p e a r  c h u t n e y
One of the nice things about thi s chutney is the cheerful colour  in the jars. This r ecipe is easy and makes enough to give away at ho liday time. Sometimes I use the chutney in place of my traditional cranberry sauce at
Christmas, and it is good with m any other winter sweet and sav oury dishes
during the long winter months. MAKES 8 CUPS (2 L)
3 cups (750 mL) chopped winter pears (Anjou, Bosc or Comice)
2 cups (500 mL) chopped pineapple grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
1 tbsp (15 mL) Five-Spice Blend ( glossary  or stor e-bought), gr ound
6 cups (1.5 L) granulated sugar
1 pkg (2 oz/57 g) fruit pectin crystals
1–1/2 cups (375 mL) sliver ed almonds
1 cup (250 mL) dried cherries or cranberries
1 tsp (5 mL) pur e almond extract
 
1. Heat four 1-p int (2-cup/500 mL) jars in boiling water , and scald the lids,
lifter , funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ).2. In a Maslin pan or canning kettle, combine pears, pineapple, lemon rind
and juic e and spice blend. Bring to a light boil over medium -high heat,
stirring frequen tly Add sugar , one cup (250 mL) at a time,  stirring to
dissolve before adding the next  cup. Add fruit pectin and bring to a boil,
stirring constantly Hold at a full rolling boil for 4 minutes. 3. Remo ve from  heat and skim  of f any foam. Stir in almonds, cranberries
and alm ond extr act. Fill hot jars , leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. Run
a thi n no n-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to allow air to escape. Add more hot chutney if necessary to leave a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to the hot
water ba th, topping up with hot water if necessary Bring to a  full rolling
boil and process jars for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 4. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . s q u a s h  s t u f f e d  w i t h  r i c e  a n d  w i n t e r  p e a r  c h u t n e y
Roasting the squash brings out  the sweet and nutty flavour and makes it
easy to r emove the seeds. This e asy r ecipe makes a filling vege tarian main
dish or a very impr essive side dish. If you have cooked rice, couscous or
barley , the pr eparation is even easier . Sometimes I add toasted  almonds or
fr esh herbs as a garnish, but it’ s not necessary . Rimmed baking sheet, lightly oiled
Pr eheat oven to 350°F (180°C)
MAKES 4 SER VINGS
2 acorn or dumpling squash, cut in half cr osswise
4 tbsp (50 mL) melted butter sea salt and pepper
2 cups (500 mL) W inter Pear Chutney1/2 cup (125 mL) cooked wild rice
 
1. Arran ge squa sh halves, cut side up, on a rimmed baking s heet. Brush
with but ter and grind salt and pepper over each half. Cover w ith foil and
bake in preheated oven until moist and tender , about 45 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine pear chutney and wild rice; set aside. When the squash is cooked, remove from the oven, scoop out and discard
the seeds. Mound the chutney mixture into the squash halves,  dividing it
evenly among the 4 halves. Co ver with foil. Return to the oven and bake
until stuf fing is heated through, about 15 minutes.M u s h r o o m s
MUSHROOMS ARE CALLED EUMYCOT A FUNGI,  and they dif fer
from both plants and animals. F ungi create spores, either in por es or in the
gills on their caps, in order to reproduce. W ild mushrooms are  gathered in
late spri ng throu gh fall, but a wide range of edible mushrooms are available
in supermarkets and specialty food stores throughout the year because many
varieties are now farmed. Mushrooms are included in the winter chapter
because fresh vegetables are so abundant at other times of the ye ar that they
tend to overpower these earthy and delicious fruiting bodies, but feel free to
use these recipes all year round. Essential:  E ating raw mushrooms (even farmed or edible wild varietie s)
may make you ill. Always cook mushrooms. Good Pr eserving V arieties
Cr emini, aka. br own:  Ric h and earthy in flavour; firm and excellent for
spreads and preserves. Use them in the Mushroom T apenade . Shiitake:  I mp ortant for h elping to prevent cancer , which makes them go od
for all kinds of preserves and o ther recipes; look for firm, puf fy caps that
have not caved in, which is a sign of deterioration.Pink Oyster:  Their beautiful pink colour makes them interesting in
preserves. King T rumpet:  Firm and dense with a thick stem; buttery sweet; excellent
in spreads and tapenade. Portobello:  Firm and dense; earthy and fairly rich in taste; their meaty
texture helps them hold their shape in preserves. Pur chasing/Storing
Select fi rm, dry  mushrooms with no signs of softness or bruising. Best to
use immediatel y , but keep dr y and store in a paper container in the
refrigerator for no longer than a day before preserving. Good W ith
Spicy herbs such as rosemary , basil, bay , thyme, chervil,
tarragon. V egetables such as onions, garlic, tomatoes.Fruit such as apples, pears. T oasted almonds, pecans, walnuts. Chicken, beef, fish. Pr eparation
Clean m ushrooms by trimming  the stems and rubbing the top side of the
caps gently with a moistened paper towel. m u s h r o o m  r i s o t t o
I have served this delicious and easy “risotto” to family and guests several
times, a nd not one person has detected that it wasn’ t pr epar ed using the
laborious, slow-cook-with-br oth  method. Be sur e to cook the rice in chicken
br oth because that, along with the Mushr oom T apenade, is what gives the
rice the rich and complex flavo ur of a traditional risotto. Grat e Parmesan
cheese over top or stir in 1 tbsp (15 mL) sour cr eam if you like. It’ s also
delicious just as it comes out of the pot. MAKES 4 SER VINGS
2 cups (500 mL) chicken br oth or water
1 cup (250 mL) basmati rice
1 tbsp (15 mL) butter
1/2 cup (125 mL) Mushr oom T apenade
In a saucepan, bring the chicke n broth to a boil over high heat. Stir in the
rice and bring b ack to a boil. Cover , reduce heat to low and cook (don’ t
peek!) f or 25 minutes. Remove the lid and fluf f with a fork. Add butter ,
stirring until it melts and is evenly distributed. Stir in the  Mushroom
T apenade. m u s h r o o m  t a p e n a d eI pr omi se you that six jars o f this chunky blend of earthy , nutty and
naturally salty spr ead will not la st long once you r ealize all of th e ways you
can use it. Beca use of its richly dark and complex flavour , one j ar of this is
all you need f or meat, grain and vegetable dishes—no long cooking
methods or other flavour ingr e dients ar e r equir ed. It makes your life so
easy! Each time I find a new  use for Mushr oom T apenade, that dish
immediately becomes my personal favourite. I started with Mushr oom
Risotto  and  the n mixed it with br ead crumbs, patted it on salmon fillets and
baked th em into  a crispy coatin g. Next came that same coating  on chicken
br easts, and now I am combining this absolutely brilliant blen d with torn
br ead pi eces an d stuffing it into  the cavities of eggplant and peppers and
zucchini. No one will believe that these exceptional dishes cons ist of two or
thr ee ingr edient s and ar e r eady  in just the time it takes to bake them. A
small food pr ocessor makes quick work of chopping mushr ooms and olives. MAKES 6 CUPS (1.5 L)
3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil
2 cups (500 mL) chopped onions
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 lb (1 kg) mushr ooms, finely chopped
1 cup (250 mL) chicken br oth
2 cups (500 mL) chopped pitted kalamata olives (see above)
2 tbsp (25 mL) fr eshly squeezed lemon juice
3/4 cup (175 mL) chopped sunflower seeds
3 tbsp (45 mL) chopped fr esh or egano
 
1. In a saucepan, heat olive oi l over medium heat. Add onion  and cook,
stirring occasionally , for 8 to 10 minutes or until soft. Add garlic,
mushrooms and chicken broth. B ring the mixture to a light boil and simmer
for 25 minutes, or until mushrroms are soft and liquid is reduced. 2. M eanwhile, heat six 1-cup (250 mL) jars in boiling water , a nd scald the
lids, lifter , funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ).3. A dd olives, lemon juice, sun flower seeds and oregano to the  mushroom
mixture. Boil for 2 minutes. 4. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. Run a thin, non-
metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to allow air to escape, and add
more hot tapenade, if necessary , to leave a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to the hot
water bath, topping up with ho t water if necessary . Bring to a full rolling
boil and process jars for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 5. R emove canner lid and wait f ive minutes before removing jars to a towel
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . Use: Y o u will find dozens of uses for this flavourful spread/sauce. Open
the j ar , heat and toss with cooked rice (see Mushroom Risotto ) or noodles
for a homemade bistro-style dinner . Mix it with soy sauce or orange juice
for stir- fried dishes. Use it as an open-face sandwich or can apé spread. Combine equal parts Mushroom  T apenade and bread crumbs and use as
a coating for baked fish and chicken. m u s h r o o m  r i c e  c a k e s
Rice and mushr ooms come together in this flavourful vegetarian main
course o r side dish. Serve these  cakes as starters, or build the meal ar ound
them as a main course. Having the right tools for the job makes life in the
kitchen easier . For perfectly r ou nd and compact rice cake shap es, I use 3-
1/2-inch (9 cm) r ound stainless s teel rings. If you pick up the ric e mixtur e in
your hands and form it into a ball befor e stuffing it into the rings, it
compacts enoug h for you to flip and r emove the rings without having the
cakes fall apart. Alternatively , you can use two dessert-size spoons and
pr ess the mixtur e into compact ovals (quenelles) befor e grilling.If yo u ca n get it, Koshihikari rice, or “Koshi” rice—a pr emium, firm short-
grain rice with a sweet taste and nutty ar oma—is the best for f orming rice
cakes. W hen coo king the rice, d on’ t let it get too dry because yo u want it to
be slightly wet and very sticky in or der to hold its shape in the cakes. MAKES 6 CAKES, EACH 3–1/2 INCHES (9 CM)
2 cups (500 mL) chicken br oth or water
1 cup (250 mL) Koshihikari rice or other sushi rice, sticky rice or r ed
rice
1/2 cup (125 mL) Mushr oom T apenade
2 tbsp (25 mL) black sesame seeds, optional
 
1. In a saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a boil over high heat. Stir in the
rice and bring b ack to a boil. Cover , reduce heat to low and cook (don’ t
peek!) f or 25 minutes. Remove the lid and fluf f with a fork. Re-cover and
let stand on the burner for 5 minutes. 2. In  a bowl, com bine cooked rice with Mushroom T apenade. Shape into 3-
1/2-inch (9 cm) diameter cakes that are 3/4 to 1 inch (2 to 2.5 cm) high. In a
lightly oiled skillet or grill, toa st the rice cakes on each side for about 2
minutes or until browned. Spri nkle 2 tsp (10 mL) black sesame seeds, if
using, on one side after flipping.W i n t e r  H e r b s
BY WINTER TIME, THE HERB GARDEN  i s dorm ant in the northern
regions of North America, and the only fresh herbs we have come from
window pots and greenhouse growers. Even so, there is usually a good
supply of fresh parsley , cilantr o and perhaps rosemary , thyme and sage
available at supermarkets. This is the time to savour the preserv es that have
been so  steadily moving from the preserving pan to the pantry shelf. W arming and tonic-dried herbs in teas are enjoyed now , and the hectic pace
of preser ving foods slows and sh ifts to gift making. Dried herbs can be used
to decorate the o utside of preserve jars and packaging. Aromat ic and long-
simmering herbs (oregano, rosemary , sage, thyme, hyssop and savory) lend
their warming spiciness to heartier winter dishes. Bay
W ith its  sweet, slightly pungent, balsamic aroma and hints of nutmeg and
camphor , the beauty of cooking  with bay (Laurus nobilis)  is that it releases
its flavo ur slowly—an essential herb for slow , long cooking techniques. Pickles, chutneys, jams, stocks, soups, stews, sauces, marinades and
stuf fings benefit from the addition of fresh or dried bay leaves. Whole
leaves are used in jars as both a flavour spike and decoration. Ground bay may be hard to find, and it is dif ficult to grind you r own (I’ve
tried!). I t is, however , one of the herbs found in Old Bay Seaso ning, a crab
and seafood seasoning that originated in Baltimore, Maryland, in 1939, so if
you can get it, su bstitute Old Bay for ground bay in the Salsa V erde , or omit
the bay altogether . Bouquet garni  is the French name for a bundle of cooking herbs tied
together with string and used to  flavour slow-cooked dishes. Whole fresh
sprigs an d leave s are preferred, but dried herbs are a practical option. The
traditional bouquet garni combination is thyme, parsley and bay . Often the
sprigs o f thyme and parsley are  wrapped in a lar ge fresh bay le af, tied and
hung to dry and stored in a cool , dark place for using throughou t the winter
months. Hor ehound
Old-fashioned h umbugs, those striped pillows of hard candy that taste piney
and camphoris h, were traditionally made with white horehound
(Marrubium vulgar e,  right). W ith their square stems and pointed leaves
growing as they do, it is not hard to see that horehound is a member of the
Lamiaciae, or mint, family . The  two parts of this plant’ s common name are
thought to be fr om the following: hoar , meaning “old” or “grey ,” which is
the colo ur of the leaves, and ho und because it was used as a tr eatment for
dog bite s in ancient times. It acts as a cough and throat s oother and
expectorant, making it a valuable herb for the Soothing W inter Cough
Syrup . HyssopEven th ough it is not a particularly common herb, hyssop  (Hyssopus
officinalis)  i s still thought o f by many as a staunch winter herb for chest and
cough ailments. Hyssop is used in making liqueurs, Chartreuse being
perhaps the most well known of the hyssop-flavoured ones. If you plan to
make your own liqueur , Blackberry Cordial  or the Pomegranate Molasses ,
they would benefit from a few  tablespoons of chopped fresh or dried
hyssop. Fresh hyssop is particularly suited to strawberries, raspberries,
apricots, peaches and cherries, so add a sprig or two to the sugar syrup (and
even each jar) when canning these fruits. Lavender
T ucker ’ s Early  la vender (right) is named after Art T ucker , co-author , with
Thomas DeBagg io, of The Big Book of Herbs  (see bibliography ). Lavender
(Lavandula  spp.) is a fairly  strong flavouring, not unlike saf fron; floral and
perfumy , it’ s definitely an acquired taste. My advice is to try a small amount
in re cipes before using the full amount called for . A sprig can be added to
apple jelly and f ruit jams, either in the mixture or in each jar . Fresh or dried
lavender (availa ble in specialty food stores) is also used to flavo ur vinegars
and oils. Lavender and santolina grow in the dry micro-climate of the Olympic
Mountains in W ashington. In N orth America, some of the top commerciallavender -growing areas are in California, Oregon, and a narrow strip of land
between the mountains in W ash ington State, as well as the Juan de Fuca
Strait centred around Sequim. Lavender Garlic Paste:  For a p aste that adds the essen ce of summertime
in th e Mediterranean to winter  dishes, try this easy flavour spike. In a
mortar a nd pestle, or in a blender , mash together 3 tbsp (45 mL) dried
or ganic lavender buds, 3 fresh g arlic cloves, 1 piece of candied ginger and 1
cinnamon stick (2 inches/5 cm). Freeze in ice cube trays. Use as a flavour
hit for stir -fried vegetables, mas hed or puréed vegetables and ri ce, pasta or
whole grain dishes. Savory
There a re two types of savo ry: the annual summer savory (Satur eja
hortensis)  a nd the wood y perennial winter savory (Satur eja Montana). Summer savory is milder and sweeter in flavour , while winte r savory is
hearty and most often used in preserves and dried for use all winter . Essential:  Always  use or ganically grown, untreated herbs and flowers fo r
preserving and cooking.a p r i c o t  c o m p o t e  w i t h  l a v e n d e r  a n d  c i t r u s
Bright and tangy , with just a hint of flowery lavender , this compote is
unusual and beautiful on winter tables. I use it with pork dishes, but it
r eally shines as a fruit sauce for all sorts of desserts. Leave  the chunky
textur e and pr ocess in jars after  cooking in step 1, or purée the mixtur e in a
food pr ocessor for a smooth, thick spr eadable sauce. If using fr esh lavender
buds, r emember to incr ease the amount slightly . MAKES 3 CUPS (750 ML)
20 dried apricot halves, coarsely chopped
1 cup (250 mL) orange juice
3 navel oranges, sectioned
1 lemon, peeled and chopped
1–1/2 cups (375 mL) granulated sugar
1 piece vanilla bean (4 inches/10 cm), split
2 tbsp (25 mL) dried organic lavender buds
1/2 tsp (2 mL) gr ound coriander seeds
1/2 tsp (2 mL) gr ound cinnamon
1. In a lar ge sa ucepan, combin e apricots, orange juice, orange sections,
lemon, sugar , vanilla bean, lave nder , coriander and cinnamon. Bring to a
boil ove r medium-high heat. Reduce heat and gently simmer f or about 60
minutes, adding more orange juice if necessary to keep the mixture from
scorching. The fruit should be soft and the mixture thick. 2. Mean while, heat three 1-cup ( 250 mL) jars in boiling water , and scald the
lids, lifter , funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 3. S kim of f and discard any foam. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-i nch (5 mm)
headspace. Run a thin non-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to
allow air to escape. Add more hot compote, if necessary , to leav e a 1/4-inch
(5 m m) headspace. W ipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to th e hot water ba th, topping up with hot water if necessary . Bring to  a full r olling boil and process jars for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater
Method, Step by Step ). 4. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . s a l s a  v e r d e
Salsa ver de (“gr een sauce”) is an old dish, dating at least as far back as the
Middle Ages. It’ s a sauce for a ny season, especially summer ,  when fr esh
gr een herbs ar e abundant, but I tend to make it in the winter . It finishes
cooked vegetabl es, acts as a pasta sauce and lends a good flavour to baked
fish and chicken. In the winter , use fr esh parsley and spinach, and tip in a
cube of Mediterranean Herb Paste  if  you f r oze some in the fall. T he hit of
fr esh gr eens is somehow appr eciated a bit mor e when the temperatur e is at
or below fr eezing and everything outside is white. MAKES 3 CUPS (750 ML)
4 cloves garlic1/4 cup (50 mL) almonds
1–1/2 cups (375 mL) lightly packed fr esh flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 cups (500 mL) lightly packed fr esh spinach leaves
2 tbsp (25 mL) dried savory or hyssop
1 tsp (5 mL) gr ound bay leaf, optional
2 slices country br ead, crusts r emoved and cubed
1/4 cup (50 mL) sweet pickled onions or cucumber cubes, drained,
brine r eserved
1/2 cup (125 mL) olive oil
2 tbsp (25 mL) r eserved sweet pickle brine sea salt and fr eshly gr ound
pepper
 
1. In  a food proc essor or using a  mortar and pestle, chop or crush the garlic
and the almonds. Add parsley spinach, hyssop and bay if using, to the bowl
and coar sely cho p or grind. Add bread and onions to the bowl and coarsely
chop or grind. 2. W ith the mot or running, drizzle some olive oil into the mixt ure through
the open ing in the lid and ke ep pouring until the sauce reaches a soft
consistency If using a mortar , dr izzle some olive oil over and work into the
mixture with the pestle. Keep adding oil and working it in until the sauce
reaches a soft and blended consistency . Add brine and process for a few
seconds just to mix. Season to taste with salt and pepper . s o o t h i n g  w i n t e r  c o u g h  s y r u p
W e hear about “active ingr edients,” and we know that many drugs contain
plant-based healing constituents, but many of us have lost the k nowledge of
how to use her bs for simple r emedies. This cough syrup r elies on the
warming qualities fr om herbs in the Labiatae family (hyssop, or egano,
r osemary , sage, savory and thyme), as well as the r estorativ e and tonicbenefits fr om hor ehound. Use a ll of these herbs, or a combination of the
herbs you have dried, in this sim ple syrup. Having a bottle of this effective
thr oat soother in the medicine cabinet is comforting. MAKES 1 CUP (250 ML)
2 cups (500 mL) water
1/4 cup (50 mL) crushed mixed dried winter herbs (see above)
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
 
1. Bring  the water to a boil. In a teapot, combine dried herbs and the water . Cover the pot and block the spout to trap evaporating medicinal oils. Let the
tea steep  for 30 minutes. Strain  of f herbs, pressing on them to release as
much infused liquid as possible. 2. In a s aucepan, bring the infus ed water to a boil over high heat. Add sugar
and brin g back to a boil, stirring constantly . Gently boil for abou t 5 minutes
or u ntil the syrup is thickened. Pour into a sterilized or clean j ar; cap with
the lid. Store in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 months.S o u r c e s / R e s o u r c e s
General
http://gr owingtaste.com/vegetables.shtml
Desirable V egetable V arieties :  A very good site listing vegetable
varieties and their quality acco rding to taste. This is good reading,
especially for home gardeners, and for home preservers to discuss with
local growers. http://www .seeds.ca/en.php
Seeds of Diversity:  Canada’ s heritage seed progra m for gardeners,
with a databas e of plant species, seed catalogue inventory , seed
availability and historic seed catalogues. Consider supporting this
valuable resource, even if you don’ t garden. http://www .seedsavers.org/
Seed Savers Exchange:  A non-profit, non-governmental, member -
supported or gan ization in the United States that saves and shares
heirloom seeds. http://www .sustainabletable.org/issues/buylocal/
Sustainable T able:  A well-presented site with information on food
choice issues, from additives to food safety to or ganic certification. http://www .cog.ca
Canadian Organic Gr owers:  Canada’ s national information network
for or ganic farmers, gardeners and consumers. http://www .ota.comOrganic T rade Association:  A  membership-based business
association that promotes awareness and understanding of o r ganic
production, and provides a unified voice for the industry . Pr eserving Equipment & Supplies
http://www .homecanning.com/can/
The Bernardin website of fer s solid, dependable home canning
information and illustrated step-by-step guides for canning both high-
and low -acid foo ds, as well as recipes. There is an online order service
for home preserving products , and F AQs for instant help with
preserving questions. http://www .leevalley .com/
Lee V alley T ools is a catalogue business (with retail outlets in major
Canadian cities)  that of fers high-quality canning equipment, inc luding
the Mas lin pan I recommend for most of the preserves in this  book. Online and free catalogue available. http://www .kitchenaid.com
W e all know w hat a stand m ixer or food processor does, b ut the
KitchenAid web site has video clips of how to use the attachments,
which helped me understand why I needed them for preserving. http://www .richters.com
Richters Herb Specialists is a nursery and mail-order business
dedicated to growing and selling herb plants, seeds, dried herbs, books
and herb-related products. O nline and free catalogue available;
worldwide shipping of plants and seeds. http://www .gilbertiesherbs.com
Gilbertie’ s Herb  Gardens is the lar gest herb plant grower in the United
States, supplying more than 400 varieties to nurseries and garden
centres.B i b l i o g r a p h y
Bernar din Guide to Home Canning. Canada: Bernardin Ltd., 2006. Burrow , Jackie. Home Pr eserves. London: T reasure Press, 1985. Carey , Nora. Perfect Pr eserves. New Y ork: Stewart, T abori & Chang, 1990. Crocker , Pat. Or egano. Neustadt, ON: Riversong Studios Ltd., 2005. DeBaggio, Thomas, and Arthur O. T ucker . The Big Book of Herbs. Loveland, CO: Interweave Press Inc., 2000. Hazelton, Nika. The Unabridged V egetable Cookbook. New Y ork: M. Evans
& Company Inc., 1976. Johns, Leslie, and V iolet Steven son. The Complete Book of Fruit. London:
Angus & Robertson Publishers, 1979. Lupi, Si monetta, and Angelo Sorzio. The Illustrated Book of Pr eserves. Garden City , NY : Doubleday & Company Inc., 1986. Norman, Jill. Herbs & Spices. New Y ork: DK Publishing Inc., 2002. Plagemann, Catherine. Fine Pr eservin g: M.F . K. Fisher ’ s Annotated
Edition. Berkeley , CA: Aris Books, 1986. Reich, Lee. Uncommon Fruits W orthy of Attention. Rea ding, MA: A ddison-
W esley Publishing Company Ltd., 1991. W ilson, C. Anne. The Boo k of Marmalade. New Y ork: St. Martin’ s/Marek,
1985.W oodward, Sarah. Oranges and Lemons. London: Conran Octopus Ltd.,
2001.G l o s s a r y
Acidulate:  A meth od of preventing the oxidation of white-fleshed fruits
and vegetables (oxidation causes the cut flesh to turn brown). T o acidulate,
immerse the flesh in water with  vitamin C, made by mixing 1 tsp (5 mL)
crystalline ascor bic acid or six 500 mg vitamin C tablets in 1 gallon (4 L)
cool wa ter . Acid ulate a small am ount of fruit or vegetables by brushing or
tossing them in lemon juice. Aggr egate fruit:  Fruit that grows in clusters around a core. Raspberries,
blackberries and strawberries are examples of aggregate fruit. Blanching:  A technique tha t slows down or  halts the deteriorating action of
enzymes. T o blanch fruit, vegetables and nuts, small amounts are scalded by
immersing them  in boiling wat er for a short period of time. T his process
makes it very easy for the skins of some fruits and veget ables to be
removed. Brine:  A salt and water solution used to soak foods. Chutney:  A swee t-sour c ondiment made from a mixture of fruit and/ or
vegetables that is cooked until s oft or until it forms a cohesive pulp. Sugar ,
spices, salt and vinegar are key ingredients, along with the fruit /vegetables. Nuts, seeds, raisins, dates, figs and other ingredients may be added. Long,
slow cooking thickens chutneys and softens the mixture. Clingstone:  A type of peach , nectarine or ap ricot whose flesh grows tightly
around the stone, making it dif ficult to remove. Compote:  A stew-like product made by poaching one or several dif ferent
fruits in a spiced liquid.Cone colander:  A cone-shaped sieve used for separating clear juice from
fruit. Conserve:  A  preserve of whole or chopped pieces of fruit suspended i n
thick syrup. Conserve is chunk ier than jam and often includes  more than
just the fruit. The addition of nuts, raisins, liqueur or brandy , figs or
currants, and herbs takes a mixture from a jam to a conserve. Fr eestone:  A type of peach , nectarine or ap ricot whose flesh does not grow
tightly around the stone, making it easy to remove. Fr eezer burn:  D ry white patch es on frozen food, caused by exposure to the
dry air of the freezer; moisture is sucked out when the packaging is thin or
torn. Prevent freezer burn by using freezer -quality bags and packages that
provide a good seal, and only fill containers to the designated headspace so
that air is not sealed in. Fruit butter:  Smooth and thick, butters are concentrated, soft, spreadable
fruit and sugar mixtures that tend to be less sweet than jams and jellies. Fruit cheese:  A mixture simil ar to a fruit butter but thicker , fruit cheese is a
semi-sweet conc entrated fruit spread often served with a cheese  tray . Use it
like peanut butter . Fruit curd:  Usually  made from citrus juice (lemon is the most popular , but
berry juice can b e used), curd is a softly thickened sauce-like mixture that is
used as a tart filling, as a sauce f or desserts and fresh fruit, and as a base for
trifle or other cake desserts. Curd is thickened with eggs and b utter . Keeps
in sterilized jars in the refrigerator for up to 1-1/2 months. Fruit syrup:  A syrup  made from sugar and juice, boiled until it is slightly
thickened. Syru ps are used to flavour and sweeten drinks and gelatin
desserts, as dessert sauces for puddings and cakes, and to sweeten sliced
berries or fruit. Hard boil:  During the making of jam and jelly , the fruit and sugar mixture
is brought to a rolling boil that cannot be stirred down.Headspace:  Th e space bet ween the top o f the food or liquid and the
underside of the canning lid. This is the space that allows for swelling of the
food as it is processed. Pay attention to the space as directed in the recipe—
it is essential for helping to create a vacuum seal. Hermetic seal:  The seal that results when the jar is completely airtight,
protecting the sterilized food from recontamination by airborne mould,
yeast or bacteria. High-acid foods:  Foo ds o r recipe s with a pH of 4.6 or lower . Most fruits,
jams, jellies and fruit spreads are high-acid. Some fruits, such as figs, and
some vegetables, notably toma toes, are considered to be high-acid when
vinegar or lemon is added. Hull:  (Noun) the crown or cap of a strawberry; (verb) to remove the crown
or cap of a strawberry . Jam:  A dens e prese rve of mashed, sliced or whole fruit that has  been
sweetened and jellied. Jam has a soft, spreadable consistency . Often lemon
juice and pectin are added to help jams set. Sugar is important to the jam-
making process to help pectin set and to retard bacteria growth. W ith the
introduction of no-sugar -needed  pectin (see Resources ), sugar is no longer
essential to jam making as lo ng as the manufacturer ’ s instructions are
followed for making and sterilizing the jam. Jelly:  A  translucent, clear mixture made from fruit juice or strained fruit
pulp. A jelly hol ds its shape when turned out of its container an d can be set
in a mould. High-pectin fruits, like apples and citrus, do not require added
pectin to gel, whereas low-pectin fruits do. Crabapples, apples, damsons
(wild plums), gooseberries and currants are old-time favourites for jelly . Low-acid foods:  Foo ds or recipes low in acid, in cluding vegetables, meats,
poultry and seafood, soups, stew s, sauces, dips and vegetable s preads, and
any foods with a pH higher than 4.6. Marmalade:  T raditio nally made from thick or thin shreds of the rind of
oranges (Seville  or T emple o ranges) or other citrus fruits. Sometimesberries, shredded  vegetables or s hredded ginger are suspended in a jelly and
called “marmalade.”
Melting flesh:  A term  applied  to some varieties of freestone peaches or
nectarines. The fruit bruises eas ily , and the flesh becomes soft quickly after
picking or when canned. When  sliced, the flesh is ragged at the pit side. Melting flesh peaches or nectarines can be clingstone or freestone. Non-r eactive pot:  The lar ge concentrations of salt and acid (vinegar or
lemon ju ice) in preserves can interact with metal utensils. It is always best
to use pottery , glass, stainless steel or enamelled equipment for mixing and
cooking preserves. oxidation:  T he reaction t hat occurs when oxygen in the air meets th e
exposed flesh of some fruit and vegetables. When light-coloured produce is
peeled or cut, the oxygen turns the exposed flesh brown. See also  Acidulate. Pr eserves:  This term has two meanings: the first is a broad reference to
sweet spreads, jams or jellies tha t are canned; the second refers to a mixture
of s mall chunks of translucent fruit or whole berries suspende d in syrup,
which is often lightly jellied. Stem ginger in syrup is a classic preserve. Relish:  A pickl ed product made from chopped fruit or vegetables; ma y be
sweet or savoury . Stem ginger:  The  pink, tende r stems growing directly out of the gingerroot. Stem ginger is not usually available fresh but rather preserved in syrup. Sterilization:  A proc ess that  removes or destroys all forms of microbial
life, including bacterial spores.I n d e x
acidity , 8
high-acid foods, 8, 11, 27
low-acid foods, 8, 13, 20–3, 28
acidulate, 26
aggregate fruit, 26
Aïoli, Spring Herb, 95
almonds
Amaretto Clafoutis with Burnt Almonds, 128–9
Beet T abbouleh, 349
Dundee Almond Cake, 468–9
Gooseberry and Almond Relish, 152
Gooseberry Gingersnap Crumble, 154
Peach and Onion Chutney , 178
Preserved Lemon Chicken T agine, 460
Raspberry-glazed Brussels Sprouts with
Pancetta, 360
W inter Pear Chutney , 506
Amaretto Black Cherries, 126
Amaretto Clafoutis with Burnt Almonds, 128–9
apple juice
substitute for sugar syrup, 15
Blueberry Conserve, 114
Low- or No-sugar Strawberry Jam, 66
Parsley Jelly , 298
Raspberry Coulis, 43
apples, fresh or preserved, 305–8
to extract pectin, 29to freeze, 315
to obtain clear juice, 310
to prepare and can, 307–8
varieties, 305–6
Blueberry Conserve, 114
Chocolate Apple Mousse Conserve, 312
Country-style Chutney , 319
Crabapple and Goat Cheese Barquettes, 314
Crabapple Chutney , 309
Gingered Autumn Conserve, 332
Gooseberry Gingersnap Crumble, 154
Green T omato Chow Chow , 273
Homemade Pectin, 29
Kohlrabi and Apple Salad, 255
Mediterranean Chutney , 291
Mincemeat, 502
Moroccan Cabbage, 366–7
Pumpkin Chutney , 424–5
Rainbow Fruited Chow Chow , 374–5
Raspberry Curd, 46
Rhubarb and Raspberry Jam, 58
Rosemary-spiked Apple Jelly , 310–11
Strawberry Rhubarb Freezer Pie Filling and Pie, 70–1
W ild Blueberry Dipping Sauce, 120
apricots, dried, 495
to soak, 495
Apricot Compote with Lavender and Citrus, 520
Brandied Melon Jam, 160
Country-style Chutney , 319
Lemon Chutney , 454–5
Mincemeat, 502
Preserved Lemon Chicken T agine, 460
Spiced Apricot and Orange Butter , 496–7
apricots, fresh or preserved, 33–5
to freeze, 39
to prepare and can, 34–5varieties, 33
Apricot Beef, 37
Apricot Compote, 36
Brandied Melon Jam, 160
Curried Summer Stone Fruit Preserve, 170–1
Honeyed Peach Freezer Salsa, 182
Scarlet Blush Apricot Freezer Conserve, 38
artichokes, 75–7
to freeze, 81
to prepare and can, 76–7
varieties, 75
Pan-seared Artichokes with Raspberry V inegar , 80
Roasted Chicken Thighs, Artichokes and New
Potatoes, 78
Roasted Garlic and Artichoke Spread, 392
Spring Salad, 97
arugula
Asparagus and Goat Cheese Flatbread, 91
Spring Salad, 97
Asian Dressing, 384–5
Asian Lime Pickles, 224
Asian Plum Sauce, 189
asparagus, 83–6
to freeze, 87
to prepare and can, 85–6
varieties, 83
Asparagus and Goat Cheese Flatbread, 91
Asparagus Sauce, 88–9
Roasted Asparagus Salsa, 90
Spring Salad, 97
Aunt Ruth’ s Heritage Chili Sauce, 274
avocados
Curried Summer Salad, 172
Fruit Chocolate Mousse, 162
 
baconPea and Prosciutto Sauce, 258
Raspberry-glazed Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta, 360
barley
Squash Stuf fed with Rice and W inter Pear
Chutney , 502
basil, 295
Basil Jelly , 298
Basil Pesto, 301
Eggplant Caponata, 230
Fire-roasted Pepper and T omato Sauce, 276–7
Gooseberry and Almond Relish, 152
Honeyed Beets, 348
Roasted Red Pepper Dip, 418
Roasted T omato, Fennel and Basil Relish, 238–9
Root V egetable Sauce, 284
Summer Herb Brown Mayonnaise, 300
Summer Herb Pesto, 301
bay , 517
Bay-spiked Cherry Currant Jam, 130–1
Classic Pickling Spice Blend, 213
Finocchio à la Grecque, 236–7
Green Giant Chutney , 416–17
Moroccan Cabbage, 366–7
beans, dried. See  legumes
beans, green or yellow , 193–5
to freeze, 201
to prepare and can, 194–5
varieties, 193
Dilled Beans, 198
Dilled Three-bean Salad, 199
Expandable Bean Salad, 200
French Beans in T omato Sauce, 196–7
Green Giant Chutney , 416–17
Niçoise Salad, 201
Rainbow Fruited Chow Chow , 374–5beef
Apricot Beef, 37
Beef Bites, 231
beets, 343–5
to freeze, 345
to prepare and can, 344–5
varieties, 344
Beet T abbouleh, 349
Beet V inaigrette, 349
Honeyed Beets, 348
Pickled Baby Beets, 346
Scarlet Mango Chutney , 480–1
Sizzling Broccoli and Honeyed Beets, 353
Sweet Pickled Kohlrabi and Beets, 254
berries
Berried Pavlova, 150–1
Berry Filling, 151
Gooseberry Gingersnap Crumble, 154
See also specific berries
blackberries, 101–3
to freeze, 108
to prepare and can, 102–3
varieties, 101
Blackberry Cordial, 105
Blackberry Granita, 105
Blackberry Pudding Cake, 104
Black Ginger Marmalade, 106–7
Black Forest Freezer Jam, 141
Black Forest Meat Loaf, 144
blanching, 26
blueberries, 111–13
to freeze, 121
to prepare and can, 112–13
varieties, 111
Black Forest Freezer Jam, 141
Blueberry Conserve, 114Blueberry Grunt, 118
Potato Pancake with Blueberry Conserve, 116
W ild Blueberry Dipping Sauce, 120
boiling water canner , 13
boiling water method, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14–16, 18–21
for apples, 308
for apricots, 35
for blackberries, 102
for blueberries, 113
for cherries, 125
for currants, 139
for garlic, 337
for gooseberries, 149
for nectarines, 167
for peaches, 176–7
for pears, 327
for persimmons, 337
for plums, 187
for raspberries, 42
for rhubarb, 42
for tomatoes, 272
bok choy
Spring Salad, 97
Brandied Melon Jam, 160
Bread and Butter Pickles, 220–1
breads, quick. See  cakes and quick breads
brine, 20–1, 26
broccoli, 351–2
to freeze, 355
varieties, 351
Brocco-cauli Mixed Pickles, 354–5
Sizzling Broccoli and Honeyed Beets, 353
broth (for canning vegetables), 20
Brussels sprouts, 357–8
to freeze, 358
varieties, 357Raspberry-glazed Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta, 360
Sweet Pickled Brussels Sprouts, 359
bulgur
Beet T abbouleh, 349
butters, fruit, 27
Spiced Apricot and Orange Butter , 496–7
 
cabbage, 363–4
to shred, 364
varieties, 363–4
Expandable Bean Salad, 200
Frozen Coleslaw , 368
Garlic Scape Relish, 244
Kohlrabi and Apple Salad, 255
Kohl Relish, 252
Moroccan Cabbage, 366–7
Moroccan Chicken T agine, 365
Peaches and Cream Relish, 381
Spring Salad, 97
cakes and quick breads
Blackberry Pudding Cake, 104
Chile Corn Bread, 382
Dundee Almond Cake, 468–9
Gingerbread, 330
V anilla Cake Base, 44
See  also desserts
calendula, 295–6
Candied Citrus Peel, 470–1
canning process, 7, 11–23
cantaloupe. See  melons
carrots, 203–5
to freeze, 209
to prepare and can, 204–5
varieties, 203
Brocco-cauli Mixed Pickles, 354–5
Carrot Confit, 237Carrot Jam, 206–7
Frozen Coleslaw , 368
Pickled Baby Carrots, 208
Pickled Baby V egetables, 434
Pickled Carrots, T urnips and Peppers, 283
Rainbow Fruited Chow Chow , 374–5
Roasted Chicken Thighs, Artichokes and New
Potatoes, 78
Root V egetable Sauce, 284
cauliflower , 371–5
to freeze, 375
varieties, 371
Brocco-cauli Mixed Pickles, 354–5
Char -grilled Corn and Cauliflower Salad with
Asian Dressing, 384–5
Frozen Purée of Cauliflower , 373
Pan-seared Moroccan Cauliflower , 479
Rainbow Fruited Chow Chow , 374–5
Champagne Raspberry V inaigrette, 96
Char -grilled Corn and Cauliflower Salad with Asian
Dressing, 384–5
cheese
Asparagus and Goat Cheese Flatbread, 91
Basil Pesto, 301
Beef Bites, 231
Beet T abbouleh, 349
Crabapple and Goat Cheese Barquettes, 314
Garlic Scape Pesto, 245
Grilled Rhubarb Orange Chicken Bur gers, 57
Pea and Prosciutto Sauce, 258
Raspberry T iramisù, 44–5
cheese, fruit, 27
cherries, dried
Garlic, Onion and Cherry Chutney , 391Mincemeat, 502
W inter Pear Chutney , 506
cherries, fresh or preserved, 123–5
to freeze, 135
to prepare and can, 124–5
varieties, 123
Amaretto Black Cherries, 126
Amaretto Clafoutis with Burnt Almonds, 128–9
Bay-spiked Cherry Currant Jam, 130–1
Berry Filling, 151
Lattice-top Cherry Pie, 133
Lori Schaef fer ’ s Cherry Cobbler , 134
Sour Cherry Pie Filling, 132
cherry tomatoes, 269
chicken
Country-style Chicken, 320
Grilled Rhubarb Orange Chicken Bur gers, 57
Honeyed Fig Chicken Stir -fry , 501
Lemon Chutney Chicken T agine, 461
Mediterranean Chicken and Potato Salad, 292
Moroccan Chicken T agine, 365
Preserved Lemon Chicken T agine, 460
Roasted Chicken Thighs, Artichokes and New
Potatoes, 78
chickpeas
Dilled Three-bean Salad, 199
Moroccan Parsnip Soup, 409
Chile Corn Bread, 382
chives
garlic greens substituted for , 93
Roasted Chicken Thighs, Artichokes and New
Potatoes, 78
chocolate
Chocolate Apple Mousse Conserve, 312Fruit Chocolate Mousse, 162
chowders.
_OceanofPDF.com_Preserving_-_Pat_Crocker.txt
Summarize the following text section accurately and concisely. Maintain specific details and numerical information, and use anti-repetition mechanisms:

        The photo above, taken in an open stall in Istanbul, shows the grains, or seeds of the “grain apple,” or
pomegranate. These seeds, encased in sacs of juice, are called arils and are held in place inside the
outer skin by thin bitter membranes. Good W ithSweet or savoury dishes (the juicy flesh surrounding the
individual seeds has a sweet, slightly astringent flavour that
complements both). Green citrus herbs such as rosemary, lemon thyme or sage. Black olives, red onion, greens, nuts, citrus fruits. Fresh cheeses such as cottage cheese, Neufchâtel, goat
cheese. Other fruit, such as mangoes, ra spberries, peaches, apricots,
nectarines. Moist, soft-textured fish such as catfish, mackerel, tilapia. Pr eparation
The rind and the walls, or septa, that divide the inside sections of
pomegranate are very bitter, so the glistening ruby red see ds must be
separated from both before usin g. Using a paring knife, cut of f the crown. Score the fruit in  quarters and p ull apart the 4 sections. Peel away the inner
walls co vering the seeds and tu rn the quarters inside out so the seeds will
pop out. p o m e g r a n a t e  p e p p e r  j e l l y
The ruby  r ed colour of the pomegranate juice makes this a vibrant jelly for
a ho liday table. I also use it in the summer with grilled vegetables and
chicken or fish. If you have a juice machine, you can juice fr esh
pomegranate by separating the seeds following the dir ections on pineapple
mustar d. I  usually pur chase the juice f or this popular jelly because it is
always r eadily available. MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS (1. 25 L)
1–1/2 cups (375 mL) pomegranate juice
1 cup (250 mL) r ed wine vinegar
2 to 4 jalapeño peppers, halved lengthwise and seeded
5 cups (1. 25 L) granulated sugar
1 pouch (3 oz/85 mL) liquid pectin
5 tiny r ed hot peppers, optional
 
1. In a sa ucepan, combine pomegranate juice, vinegar and jalapeno peppers. Bring to a boil  over high heat. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 10
minutes. Strain into a 4-cup (1 L) bowl, discarding peppers. Li quid should
measure 2 cups (500 mL). 2. Heat five 1-cup (250 mL) jar s in boiling water, and scald the lids, lifter,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 3. In  a Maslin pa n or Dutch oven, bring the strained pomegranate liquid to a
boil over high h eat. Stir in the sugar, one cup at a time, stirri ng until the
sugar dissolves before adding the next cup. Bring to a rolling boil, stirring
often. Add pectin, stir and retu rn to a full rolling boil. Boil fo r 1 minute,
stirring constantly. 4. Remo ve pan from heat and s kim of f foam. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-
inch (5 mm) hea dspace. If desired, add a whole tiny red pepper  to each jar. W ipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to the hot
water bath, topping up with ho t water if necessary. Bring to a full rolling
boil and process jars for 5 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 5. T ransfer to a cooling rack to cool completely. Check seals, label and store
in a cool place for up to 1 year. Use: Th is jelly is delicious serv ed over brie baked in the oven to soften it. W alnuts and almonds make a very nice accompaniment in salads, sauces
or dressings, or with roasts. p o m e g r a n a t e  m o l a s s e s
Her e is another example of a ho memade version being so much better than
stor e-bought—if you can even find pomegranate molasses anywher e other
than in Middle Eastern markets or online. I fell in love with the f lavour on a
r ecent v isit to Istanbul. Of course, I br ought a bottle back and used it as a
glaze and a flav ouring in drinks and lamb stew and even in sal ad dr essing. It wasn’ t long befor e I set to work on my own r ecipe. I usually make half of
the r ecip e below because I don’ t pr ocess the jars. Y ou have th e option of
making half the r ecipe and storing it in the r efrigerator or water -bath
pr ocessing the lar ger amount so that you can stor e it in a cupboar d. MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (1 L)
8 cups (2 L) pomegranate juice
2 cups (500 mL) granulated sugar
grated rind and juice of 2 lemons
 
1. In  a Maslin pa n or Dutch oven, combine pomegranate juice, sugar, lemon
rind and  lemon juice. Bring to a  boil over high heat, stirring constantly until
sugar is dissolved. Reduce heat and simmer gently, stirring only
occasionally, for 45 to 60 minutes. W atch the pan carefully as the time
approaches the 3/4-hour mark: the liquid should be reduced by  about halfand the syrup should be thick but not sticky. A thermometer will register
between 100 and 104°F (37. 7 and 40°C).
Pomegranate
What is the name of the fruit that is often used in savory dishes?