“The
latter may take the form of the application of warm oil over thebody and the application of hea ted pouches of herbs on the b ody ,
but each patient is dif ferent, with dif ferent  dosha  imbalances, so
the treatments always vary .”
When the body and mind are deemed ready ,  pradhanakarma
or the main trea tment designed to each individual’ s needs, beg ins. As its name suggests (panch  means “five” and  karma  means
“action”), the process comprise s five cleansing procedures, each
designed to correct doshic imbalances. They are  vamanam  or
induced vomiti ng, allegedly a painless, drug-induced em etic
process;  virechanam  or induc ed pur gation, whereby  drugs that
stimulate bowel  movements are taken internally;  vasthi , the  use  of
medicated enemas (see pages 32–35);  nasyam  or nasal cleansing
through the application of medical oils or powders (see right); and
rakthamoksham  or detoxification of the blood. Clearly , this therapy is not for the faint-hearted, and the
patient/doctor level of trust needs to be very high. This is why
Kalari K ovilakom insists on a minimum stay of 14 days, so that
doctors can truly assess and m onitor a patient’ s needs. Dr Jayan
explains that rarely are all five therapies prescribed. “For  pitta
imbalances, we prescribe pur gation with oils or powders,  vata
imbalances go the herbal and oil enema route, and  kapha
imbalances are always prescribed  vamanam. Here patients drink
two liters of m ilk or sugar cane juice mixed with special he rbal
medicines to induce vomiting a fter 45 minutes.” He goes on to say
that  nasyam  is includ ed if there are nasal, throat or brain problems
and bloodletting is useful for skin problems. Hence, a patient may
be p rescribed only one of the five processes; sometimes two or
three, and in rare cases, five.A  nasyam  session at Ayurmana illustrates how a therapist pours medication into
the nostrils. Ghee,  choornam  or powders, or medicated oils are used. Naturally , the strict routine and caring staf f at Kalari Kovilakom
go a  long way to supporting guests on this somewhat grues ome
journey; nevertheless, many first-timers to the process describe both
physical symptoms of discomfort and mental anguish. It is belie ved,
however , that a special diet and  medication, sessions of meditation
and yog a and an unchanging routine provide the support netw ork
needed. Similarly , post-treatment after the guest leaves the premises
in the form of medication, con tact with doctors, rest and die t is
highly recommended. A yurveda, from  time immemorial, has focused on anti-aging
and rejuvenation programs to prevent disease and to maintain an
optimum healthy state. In today’ s world, curative therapies are
increasingly rep lacing preventative ones — and  panchakarma
(both curative and preventative) is one of the more extreme
examples on the A yurvedic menu. Nevertheless, devotees with the
stamina and the will swear by it, and if the venue is carefully
chosen, it may turn out to be a life-changing experience.Ayurvedic powders  and oils used in the  panchakarma  treatment at Kalari
Kovilakom, a retreat in Kerala. The  kizhi  pouches are for the preparation stage,while the tray with the oil lamp is used to bless the patient before any therapy
commences. Proper diet is considered an important part of the healing proces s in
panchakarma . At Kalari Kovilakom all food is prepared according to Ayurvedic
principles with only copper , bell metal, earthenware, stone or brass vessels used
in prepara tion, cook ing and serving. Every patient has a special drink on hand 24
hours a day and meals are served in gleaming brass  katories  (cups) on a banana
leaf covered  thali  tray.mud therapy
Used on the face, mud draws out toxin s very quickly , so it makes for an effective
face mask . It may also be used on the eyes (but only in a pack) to strengthe n the
optic nerve and muscles, relax the eyes, and impart a cooling and de-stressing
effect on the entire eye area. In India, mud therapy falls under the Naturopathy umbrella,
as it employ s one of the Five Great Elements or
Panchmahabhutas (panch  is “five”,  maha  is “great”,
bhuta  is “e lement”). Comprising E arth, W ater , Fire, Air and
Ether , mud therapy unsurprisingly utilizes Earth as its main
healing ingred ient. Mud absorbs, dissolves and elimin ates
toxins from beneath the skin ’ s surface, opens the pores and
improves peripheral blood circulation. As such, it  is
rejuvenating for the body and soothing for the skin.Mud the rapy is employed in the treatment of a variety of ailm ents
such as digestive disorders, skin diseases and more. The world-
famous  Multani mitti or  “mud from Multan”, an area now in
Pakistan, was one of the earliest substances to be used as a beauty
mask. This lime-rich clay was mixed with rice bran and milk or
curd and used as a face pack to  draw out toxins and polluting free
radicals. Indeed, it is still used as such today . Because of its high
mineral content and moisturizin g ef fect, it is a great nourisher and
often ac ts as a conduit for healing ingredients to be absorbed into
the system. A yurvedic texts record that mud draws out heat and
excess  pitta  through the skin; it also says th at  Multani mitti  can be
used by all three  doshas . At Soukya, the integrated wellness center near Bangalore where
Naturopathy is combined with other modalities to create individual
therapeutic programs, mud is used in three ways: as a local ized
application, as a pack and as a fu ll mud bath. Mud is harvested from
the man y ant hills found on site; as the ants have taken the mud
from dee p down , it’ s incredibly pure without any surface polluta nts. Therapists furth er prepare it by sieving it, washing it properly , and
sterilizing it by drying it in sun light. It is then stored carefull y in
airtight containers. “Mud is healing in itself,” expl ains the resident naturopath Dr
Usha Devi. “It has the property  of retaining temperature for a l ong
time, so  depending on the ailm ent, can be applied either hot or
cold.” H ot mud is used for join t conditions such as arthritis an d to
reduce oedema or water retentio n in localized areas of the body , and
cold mu d helps in the treatment of skin diseases, such as psor iasis
for example. Sometimes, herbs may be added such as disinfecting neem and
turmeric if there is a possibility of infection and castor oil may  be
added to an abdominal pack in liver conditions. It helps stimulate
the circulation of blood towar ds the liver , thereby aiding in  the
detoxification process. Whichever mud therapy is assigned, the feeling is nurturing and
strengthening. The tightening experienced when the mud dries on
the skin is pleasant — be it hot or cold — and as it is straight from
nature, you can be sure it is doing good work. The full mud bath is
particularly invigorating: being slathered in soft, creamy mud, then
having it washed of f afterwards  is a self-indulgent treat. The skinfeels sof t, smooth, tight and tin gly afterwards — and there is no
need for extra moisturizing. Application of mud from top to toe may sound a bit messy (gross even), but it is an
invigorating experie nce especially if the body is wrapped in a blanket after
application. Micro elements from the mud are absorbed into the body and toxins
expelled leaving skin and internal organs refreshed. Mud from Soukya’ s organic site is harvested, mixed with pure water and made into
packs for a variety of uses. When placed on the abdomen, it is left for 20 minutes
to improve  digestion, strengthen the metabolism of the liver, prevent constipation
and speed  up blood circulation to the internal organs. Full of elements such as
iron, manganese, zinc, copper , chromium and cobalt, it is therapeutic in the
extreme.ksheera dhooma
Medicated Milk Steam
A particular A yurvedic method unique to Kerala,  ksheera
dhooma  is presc ribed f or patients with facial palsy , certain
nervous disorders, dif ficulty in voice and speech, headaches
and trigeminal neuralgia (the trigeminal nerve is a cranial
nerve t hat sup plies the face). The word  ksheera  translates
as “milk” and  dhooma  indicates a “fomentation by vapor”. Generally giv en to the fac e, although the steam may be
directed to other parts of the body suf fering from dif fe rent
conditions, it consists of a steaming with medicated milk. It
is considered a treatment for  vata  related disorders. First of all, a selection of herbs is boiled up with cow’ s milk, then
the steam issuing from the mix is passed through a tube to  the
af fected area of the body (this has first been oiled with medic ated
herbal oil chosen according to the body’ s constitution and
condition). The steam makes what is known in A yurvedic circles as
a fomen tation on the face, thereby allowing medicinal properties to
be absorbed. The idea is to stimulate nerve endings and open up the
micro-channels just below the skin’ s surface. At Soukya International Holistic Health Center , the medicated
milk is steamed through a papaya stalk onto the chosen area. This
allows t he prope rties of the herb s and the milk to mix with pap ain,
the active enzyme in papaya,  before it reaches its destinat ion. Papain is helpful in loosening and dissolving the top layer of d ead
skin cells, so, in this case, it helps prepare the skin for the
absorption of the medicated herbs. The treatment is prescribed oncea da y fo r three, five or seven day s consecutively and may be of f ered
in c ombination with other trea tments. It’ s a good example o f a
traditional therapy of fered in modern surrounds. A therapist directs steam from boiling medicated milk on to the face of a patie nt at
the integrated wellness center called Soukya. Known as a  swedan  (fomentation)
therapy ,  ksheera dhooma  is tradition ally prescribed for people with  vata  related
disorders (any muscle, ligament, joint or nerve-related disorder).netra tarpanam
Vasthi Therapy for the Eyes
At an A yurved a clinic,  netra tarpanam  is seen as an oral
eye care treatment to help w ith eye strain, dryness of ey es,
poor sight and other eye-rela ted conditions. It is believed to
strengthen the  muscles round the eyes, cool the eyes, oleate
the area  round the eyes and may even help with myopia. As
with all A yurvedic prescriptions, at least a two-week course
is s uggested, and during th e course of the treatment the
patient should not be exposed to harsh light. The treatment uses the mediu m of ghee or  gritham , a type  of
clarified butter that is used all  over India in cooking. “Ghee has
what we call  samskarika anuvarthana  in Sanskrit,” explains
A yurvedic doctor , Dr Y ogesh, “this means it has the specific quality
of being  able to absorb propert ies of herbal products and transfer
them into the skin.” Depending on the condition,  triphala gritham ,
good for the eyesight, or  jeevanthyadhi gritham , a ghee that helps
develop immunity , may be used. T o keep the ghe e in place over the eye socket, a dough of black
or g reen gram fl our paste (gram powder mixed with water) is m ade
and stuc k around both eye cavities. A small amount of ghee me lted
to room temperature is then poured into the watertight enclosure, so
that it fills the contained area a nd makes the eyelashes sink s hut. The ghee is kept on the eyes for 20 minutes, during which time the
patient is encouraged to move the eyes around. It is a slightly fiddly process, and may not be for everybody . Some people experience a burning sensation when the medicatedghee is poured in, and having t o hold still for a long time isn’ t to
every body’ s liking. Strictly speaking,  netra tarpanam  is a  vasthi  therapy (see pages 32–35), as
medicated ghee is kept trapped on a topical area in a watertight “reservoir” of
dough. Whilst the ghee rests in its place, eyes should be rolled around, opened
and closed, thereby allowing the ghee’ s properties to be fully absorbed.kizhi therapy
The Hot Herbal Pouch
In A yurveda, the herbal poultice is a time-honored tradition
of healing with heat. Packed with goodness, warm ed
pouches of herbs, plants, roots, and more, have been applied
to sore, sprained or sad bodies for centuries. Classified as a
swedanam  (Sanskrit for sweat therapy) in the V edic texts,
the herbal poultice is both detoxifying and healing. Specially selected ingredients are tied tightly in natural
cloth, s teamed for a few min utes, then dipped in medicated
herbal oil and applied to the body . On application, the heat
induces sweating, thereby helping to bring toxins to the
surface of the skin; then, once the pores are open, s kin
absorbs the properties of the herbs for healing. The  kizhi  (Mahalayam word for bundle) has proved so popular over
the c enturies, its fame has sprea d to other cultures too. Many South
East Asi an herbal healthcare practices rely on the herbal poultice to
relieve sore muscles and joint pains, while in India, hospi tals,
homestays, spas, wellness centers and salons of fer various forms
both as a stand -alone treatmen t or in conjunction with ano ther
therapy such as massage. The content, method of application and
usage varies widely . Patrapotlaswedanam
The Sanskrit name for this an cient A yurvedic treatment is taken
from  patra  meaning “leaves”,  potla  translating as “pouch” and
swedanam  meaning “fomentation” or “s weat therapy”. Theintegrated medical center called Soukya, just outside Bangalore, is
known for its extensive herb gardens — so their  potla  makes full
use of plants grown on site. Leaves f rom the  castor oil plan t (Ricinus communis ), rich in
oil, are combined with  Datura alba  leaves (this plant is widely
used by A yurvedic and Siddha practitioners in oil-based
preparations for  dressings on w ounds), skin tonifying  nirgundi  or
Vitex nigundo  leaves, and leaves from the  moringo  or drumstick
tree. The se latter leaves are a well-known natural antibiotic. In fact,
all thes e leave s contain anti-inflammatory and pain-reducing
properties, so are useful in arthritic conditions. T o prepare the  potla ,
they are washed, torn up and m ixed with crushed garlic, lime and
shredded coconut flesh, then fried with medicated oil in a w ok,
before being knotted up into small pouches. Sand, like clay and mud, has the ability to retain heat or cold, so is an ideal filler
for a heated compress. When dipped in warm, medicated oil, these bundle s of
goodness spread warmth and healing deep into tense or knotted muscles. At the
tranquil Spa Village  in the Pangkor Island Resort in Malaysia, pretty batik cottons
are used to further the pouch’ s appeal. At Soukya, patients who have been prescribed this therapy are
on a  course of seven to 21 day s, and the pouch is combined with
other th erapies. It may be gi ven to people with sciatica, disc
prolapse or lower back pain, and  is usually applied after an external
massage with medicated oil. T w o therapists administer the  potla :
one war ms two of the pouches  in medicated oil, while the other
massages the other two on to af fected areas. Movements include
gentle thudding and rubbing away from the heart. Navara Kizhi
Definitely worth a try is the intriguingly named Navara  kizhi , a
Keralan treatment of fered at many spas and clinics throughout
India. A t Oberoi Spa at Udaivilas, Navara rice (a type of dehus ked,red rice)  is mixed with milk a nd a decoction of  bala  root (Sida
cordifolia ) and  boiled for half an hour until it achieves a gruel-like
consistency . It is then wrapped into a loosely spun cotton cloth that
allows t he mixture to come through easily , and applied on to the
body . The excess liquid is kept i n a reserve pan on a warmer , so that
the pouches may be periodically re-warmed. Bala  root is a powerful cell nourishing and regenerating herb,
and is used in m any A yurvedic  treatments to maintain youth and
vitality . It means “youth” in Sanskrit, and is considered analge sic,
diuretic and stimulating as well. When mixed with Navara rice and
milk, the  proper ties “go quite de ep”, according to A yurvedic doctor ,
Dr Y oge sh, who recommends the treatment to develop muscles and
improve muscle tone. “The pouch nourishes the skin, alleviates
vata  problems, improves blood circulation, reduces stif fness and
strengthens both the quantity and quality of the muscles,” he says. V ariations on the Navara  kizhi  include  podi kizhi (podi  means
“powder”;  triphala  or  dashmool  are often used);  dhanya kizhi
(dhanyam  translates as “grains”, so a combination of processed
grains is  used here;  naranga kizhi  using a cloth pouch filled with
lemon and herbs dipped in medicated oils; and  elakizhi (ela  means
“leaves”. All are designed to ac t as a potent anti-rheumatic, so are
helpful for stif fness in the joints. The spa at Amanbagh uses  dashmool  powder (das  means ten,
mool  translates as roots) in its specialized  kizhi  treatment. T ied
securely in immaculate linen pouches, the pretty little bundles are
dipped into warmed, medicated sesame first boiled with handpicked
aak  leaves (Calotropis gigantea ) before application. Aak  is a
plant in the milk weed family that grows profusely in the immediate
locality; known as swallow-wort,  aak  is useful in the treatment of
paralysis, swellings and fever , and it is anti-inflammatory when
applied externally . The Sand Bundle
At the spa at R ajvilas and Spa V illage spas in South East Asia,
fomentation with  small linen pouches filled with sand are the norm. The sand bundle is classified un der  ushema swedanam  therapies,
which translates as “to warm up (bundles) to sweat”. At Rajvilas, sulphur sand from Simla (it can hold its
temperature for a long time) is tied in small linen pouches, w hichare then  dipped in warm medic ated oil chosen according to one’ s
dosha  and pounded on the body . Accompanied by massage, the
therapy is soothing for inflammatory conditions, stif fness of joints
and aching muscles; it also pro motes general wellbeing. The heat
speeds up blood circulation and promotes sweating, which in turn
helps to eliminate toxins from the body . Plucked from the organic garden, Soukya’ s leaves are washed and chopped, then
mixed with lime, coconut and garlic and fried in a wok with medicated oil chosen
according to a patie nt’s health status and  dosha  imbalance. After frying for 10 to
15 minute s, the ingredients are transferred into soft cotton pouches, before being
administered, wonderfully warmed in oil, on problem areas. The gorge ous property in Udaipur known as Udaivilas not only boasts tranquil
surrounds on Lake Pichola, it offers numerous sites for therapy . Built to resemble
a Mewari palace, scallop-edged arches,  jaali  windows, cool sandstone and marble
decorations, as well as abundant gardens, offer a delightful backdrop to a spa
suite.beauty
Ancient beauty  -enhancing rituals are
experiencing a renaissance globally, as
people look towards “natural” rather than
“chemical” solutions to the symptoms of
aging. India is well placed to cater to
such needs, as it is home to a rich
selection of hair, skin and body
treatments, all of which work both
internally and externally to create a
glowing complexion, soft skin andlustrous locks. In addition, we consider
some wonderful de-toxing and
beautifying baths and some inspiring
therapies that employ gems, crystals,
metals and minerals for healing.ayurvedic facial care
Indian women have been harnessing herbs and plants for
skin care for centuries. Nu merous Sanskrit texts outline
facial and other beauty treatments, and evidence of natural
cosmetics dates back to at least 3,000  BC  in excavations of
the In dus V alley civilizat ion in present-day Pakis tan. Instructions for extracts of flowers, leaves, barks and herbs
for both medicinal and cosmetic purposes are plentiful in the
V edas — and the flawlessn ess of Indian women’ s skin is
captured in countless paintings from the past. Some of  the more common Indi an beauty products that have found
a w orldwide market include  kajal  or kohl eyeliner and  mehndi
(henna), as well as various per fumes and oils. Kajal  found fame
with the  Moghul Empress Nur Jehan; it is traditionally made from
triphala , alm ond, camphor and cabbage , all burnt in the oil of rose,
and has been exported for decades. Oils of sandalwood, musk and
rose hav e been traded along w ith India’ s cotton and spices for
centuries, and the Rajput combination of rose and milk for facial
scenting and cleansing is well documented. More recently , as
people h ave become aware of th e potential pitfalls of chemical and
synthetic skin, hair and beauty products, Indian herbal recipes have
become increasingly popular in global markets. In addition to formulating, manufacturing and selling facial
products, India is starting to capitalize on some of its ancient be auty
treatments too. Threading, the ancient art of facial hair extraction, is
finding favor in London and New Y ork day spas, and henna hairtreatments are increasingly pr omoted in high-end hair salons. Marma  massage on the vital ener gy poi nts of the face is a therapy
of fered in many South East Asian spas and the Indian head mass age
is widely used as a “filler” whilst a client is resting with a face
mask, fo r example. These, along with some of the more medicinal
A yurvedic treatments, are ones to watch out for . Many spas, salons and Ayurvedic centers in India are now manufacturing their
own herbal products for sale both domestically and overseas. The ingredients for
the Ananda facial are artfully arrang ed here on a tray. Preceded by a back
massage, it comprises a cleanse, exfoliate, tone, facial massage, clay mask and
moisturize. According to A yurvedic texts, the secret to lasting beauty is
ojas  or the subtle qu ality of vigor o r vitality that is the superfine
essence of the se ven  dhatus  or ti ssues of the body . If  ojas  is strong
and healthy , one has a radiant inner self; this, in turn, manif ests
itself in one’ s outer physical  appearance. Of course, a facial
treatment will help also, and it’ s important to note that m any
A yurvedic facial treatments, of fered at numerous spas and salons
throughout India, are designed  for both outer beauty and innerdetoxification. Often called  mukhalepam  (mukha  is “face”,
lepam  translates as “pack”), they condition and nourish the skin,
open blo cked po res, eliminate toxins internally and cleanse the face
to improve skin texture. A Rajasthani miniature painting depicts a maid helping her mistress with her
toilette (Mankot,  circa  1720).T raditionally , A yurvedic skin care recipes were formulated
according to the healing ingredients that women had to hand in t heir
immediate vicinity . They took into account the condition or  vikruti
of a  person’ s skin, and were  made in the kitchen and used
immediately . Cleansing, nourishing and protecting are the three key
components in A yurvedic skin care and a full treatment is composed
of eight steps: A thorough clean se with an  ubtan  paste; an oleation
massage on the reflex points an d ener gy meridians on the face; a
herbal steam or compress to bri ng out impurities; a gentle scru b to
stimulate circula tion and cleanse the pores; a mask or pack to deep
cleanse, tauten and/or nourish the skin; a toning and rejuvena ting
refresher to refine pores and tone the skin; a deep moisturizer to
protect the skin from the eleme nts and bacteria; and a gentle sp ray
mist to assist ab sorption of the moisturizer and bring vitality to the
entire complexion. Although it would be too tedious to outline all the invigorating
facials you may have the luck to come across in India, a few
deserve special mention for the  quality of their products and  the
skill of the ther apists. Aman spas should be sought out in New
Delhi and Rajasthan (see opp osite) as much for their sup erb
surrounds as their specialist treatments and Shahnaz Husain, the
herbal b eauty tour de force, i s another name to watch out for . Another must is the A yurvedic facial at Soukya that works on b oth
the inner and outer levels in order to develop  ojas . It goes  withou t
saying that all s ections are performed with A yurvedic herbs cho sen
according to one’ s constitution and present state of health,
combined with fresh fruits and vegetables selected according to skin
types. Milk, curd, mint, honey , turmeric and sandal form its b asis. The handpicked  ingredients supply much-needed vitamins and
minerals, while packs even out color tone, soothe and moisturize the
skin, an d leave the face soft and supple. Steam ensures that the
ingredients are absorbed into the deepest layer of the s kin,
stimulating it and ensuring healthy new cell growth. The Park Hotels’ line of day spas called Aura also of fer a
number of super -fresh, natural  facial sequences. Harnessing the
power of rare combinations of natural herbs, fruits, flowers and
spices, each is individually designed for dif ferent complexions. Those w ith dry skin would be well advised to try the saf fron and
almond number: a gentle anti-aging treatment, it uses pure  rawa
(semolina) for exfoliation and then gives skin a blast with a saf fronand almond mask. Saf fron is a powerful ingredient for boosting skin
longevity and almonds are high in vitamin  E , a crucial component in
skin sof tening. The result is th e minimizing of fine lines and a
refreshed, clearer complexion. Aman spas’ “Royal Beauty” or  Shahi Nikhar  is a complete facial  treatment fit for a
Maharani. Featuring such Indian exotics as honey , milk and rose, passion flower,
geranium, cassia flower and chamomile, it smells as good as it feels. Designed to
cleanse and soften skin, it also boosts  cell renewal and draws out pollutants from
the complexion.Cucumber traces its roots to northern India, although it is widely available in the
West. It contains natural salts, enzymes and vitamins essential for strong cell
growth and repair; in addition, it has a high mineral content and is a natural source
of antioxid ants. At Aura spas in Kolka ta, Chennai and New Delhi, cucumb er is
used on the skin as a sunburn soother , as well as a facial toner and moisturizer . The fresh apple facial, on the o ther hand, is recommended for
oily to normal skins. Kashmiri women, renowned for their clear , fair
complexions, have applied mashed apple and apricots, mixed with
honey , t o their faces for centuries. At Aura, slices of apple, ric h in
antioxidants and  creamed with humectant honey , are rubbed o n tothe f ace to rehyd rate and revitalize. W ith its fresh, fruity aroma  and
the gen tle nurturing movements of well-trained therapists, this
facial fires skin with an inner glow . The Kumarakom  mukhalepam  is an other one to look out for: it
is excellent for dry , oily and combination skins and for people with
dif ferent  doshas . Made entirely from ingredients fresh from the
market, it is a wonderfully na tural sequence. Utilizing a wheat
powder and juice combo to tig hten skin; an aloe vera massage; a
moisturizing cucumber freshener; a scrub from orange peel, ground
strawberry , guava and apple seeds to exfoliate; a crushed papaya
polish; a  pack of  Multani mitti  powder mixed with lots of fresh
produce and juice, it is good enough to eat!Inexpensive, fast and neat, threading works well to remove facial hair and stray
eyebrow hairs. Using teeth and hands , the practitioner utilizes a loop of cotton totrap a series of unwanted hairs and pull them from the skin. As with twee zers,
results last from two to four weeks. The energ izing facial treatment ingredients at Soukya (see  below ): While the
properties fom Soukya’ s delicate warmed herbal pouches penetrate into the skin
(see  left), a gentle  massage increases periphe ral circulation and oxygenates the
facial cells. Turmeric, a staple in Indian cuisine, doubles up as a beauty product
(see  right). When combined with  rawa  (semolina) and cleansing red sandal
powder , it ef fectively exfoliates dead skin cells.hand care
A yurvedic tex ts emphasize  the importance of self-care,
declaring that the body has the means to heal itself. As su ch,
there are numerous guidelines in the major medical treatises
for maintenance of healthy skin, or gans, digestive sys tem
and more. If  ojas  is strong and the life force is flowing
freely , a person looks dynamic, vigorous and well cared for . A toxin -free internal system is reflected externally w ith
glowing skin, bright eyes and healthy limbs. Similarly , such
a perso n is mentally asse rtive, emotionally caring and
spiritually pure. On t he other hand, if there are internal health problems, these may
be detec table externally . In many cases, they are reflected in the
state of one’ s finger nails. As nails are a by-product ( mala ) of bones
(asthi dhatu ), they often reflect problems within the body tissues
(dhatu ). For example, a liver conditio n called W ilson’ s Disease is
easily spotted by the formation of exaggerated lar ge whitish areas
on the nails. White spots on the nails show a calcium or zinc
deficiency , while brown lines running down the nail indicate
possible inflammatory bowel di sease. Brittle nails can warn of low
iron or V itamin A, kidney malf unction or poor circulation. Ridges
across the nails often accompany acute infections. A yurvedic doctors suggest regular nail inspection, and daily or
weekly hand and nail care. Hands are a vulnerable part of the body
and are subject to premature a ging, so need daily care. A handmassage is an ex cellent way to stimulate  marma  points and ener gy
meridians, thus releasing toxins  and invigorating  ojas . As  wit h the
face, certain points on the hands  are associated with various or g ans
and syst ems wit hin the body , so  a hand massage is not only loc ally
stimulating. For example, pressing gently into the center of the palm
stimulates the kidney area, while a massage between the thumb and
index finger helps with digestion. Many spas and clinics in India  of fer hand massage, often as a
prelude or to accompany another treatment. Comprising part of a
karashubakari  (“manicure” in Sanskrit), it can be particularly
pleasant. Many of these manicures utilize homemade herbal pastes,
scrubs and tonics and combine them with mainstream hand and nail
care such as cutting and filing nails, cuticle care and the application
of nail polish. O f particular note is the pampering manicure at the
Indus V alley A yurvedic Center: in this sequence, milk (high in lactic
acid) is used to soften hands; a disinfecting neem paste makes for a
tingling purifier ; herbal medicated oil according to one’ s  dosha  is
the base  for a vigorous hand massage; gelatine and lemon remo ves
dead surface cells while lemon  juice and sugar exfoliates; an d a
herbal pack made from  Multani mitti , milk and rosewater tightens
the skin. At over 90 minutes, it is a ritual to relish. A rich jade color , this neem paste is part of the relaxing herbal manicure given in
the comfortable Shringar Herbal Beauty Salon at the Indus Valley Ayurvedic
Center . In Indian salons, a manicure often includes a hand massage that extends all the
way up the arms. At the spa at Neemrana Fort Palace, a therapist locates
pressure points on the wrist — for deep cleansing as well as relaxation.Certain Aura spas’ therapists are trained in the art of a very particular hand
massage technique . Designed to release emotions, it can be quite a powerful
experience. Using thumbs and knuckl es, the therapist pushes up from the tip of
each finge r to release energy — and the same techniques are also employed
elsewhere on the body for a similar ef fect.foot care
In I ndia, when entering a hom e it is traditional to step across
the threshold with the right foot first. Shoes are often taken
of f, as they are when entering a temple or mosque (here feet
are often washed too), and touching the feet of an elder is
considered a mark of respect. As in other parts of Asia, feet
are full of symbolism. According to A yurvedic lore, an imbalance of  vata  lies at the heart
of all foot problems. As is u sual, most physicians recomm end
prevention rather than cure, stressing that regular foot care, pro per
posture and sensible footwea r also go a long way towards
ameliorating existing problems. Alternating hot and cold footbaths
help with aching feet and poor circulation, while regular foot
hygiene and exercise allow you to put your best foot forward at all
times. In  the same way that a footbath was traditionally of fered to
visitors after a l ong journey , today it often sets the tone at a spa. Given b efore a treatment, it benefits more than just the feet a s it
revitalizes the nervous system, improves circulation and provides a
feeling of general wellbeing. The  Charaka Samita  notes that the application of oil is the
best remedy for tired or neglected feet. It is said to alleviate coarse
and rough skin and reduce stif fness, fatigue and numbness. Furthermore, after a  padhabyangha  massage (foot massage with
oil), loca lized veins and ligaments are strengthened and feet bec ome
firm and  strong. In addition, vis ion is supposed to be enhanced, as
nerves in the soles of the feet are associated with the eyes.Padhabyangham  tends to concentrate on the pressure points
located on the soles of the feet, as it is believed that these are
connected by ener gy channels to internal or gans. Sesame or cooling
coconut oil is favored, and if the oil is enlivened with essential oils
such as peppermint,  tulsi  or black pepper , feet are also given an
antiseptic and tension-relieving  boost. It is said that a str ong
rotating, kneadi ng foot massage before bed results in a tranquil
night’ s sleep. At m any spas b oth in India and elsewhere, foot reflexology or
foot massage is a staple on the menu. Often given whilst a client lies
cocooned in a b ody wrap or as  one part of a foot ritual, there is
something wickedly sensual about having your feet nurtured in s uch
a m anne r . Anoth er option is to walk along an uneven path in bare
feet (as recommended at Soukya and Kalari Kovilakom): a couple
of ci rcumambulations around su ch a path sends messages from the
trigger p oints on  the soles of the feet through the meridian chan nels
to th e in ternal o r gans. Y our body will benefit, even if your feet feel
a little painful. “As the snake does n’t approach the eagle, so disease doesn’t affect the person
who mass ages his feet before sleepin g” goes an old Indian saying. As such , foot
massage to the  marma  points on the feet is a family activity , often given by
children to elders. Invigorating and enlivening, it is good not only for the feet, but
for the entire body . In the same way  that soap was eschewed for an  ubtan  scrub to
cleanse and purify the body , A yurvedic physicians and beauty
therapists recom mend cleaning the feet with a scrub. Not only does
this exfo liate de ad skin cells, it helps prevent foot odor and fu ngal
and bact erial infections. For a v ery Indian sensation, try the Masala
spice scrub at T aj spas: a boost for the circulation, it promotes deep
cleansing. Another winner is the or ganic thyme and peppermint
scrub at Quan sp a in Mumbai: when followed by a  marma  massage
with  parijat  oil, it leaves the whole body profoundly relaxed.The floral footbath is a staple at Indian spas, as it is elsewhere around the globe. Jasmine, rose, frangipani and chrysanthemum blooms are all popular .The four steps at Neemrana Fort Palace’ s sublime  sirolepam  treatment includes a
head massage that extends to the face, neck and shoulder areas, a mud and
yogurt pack that penetrates deeply into the epidermal layer of the scalp, a
shampoo and a final conditioner . Traditionally , hair packs were covered with leaf
wraps. hair care
Indian women are renowned for their dark, thick and
lustrous locks. Ancient texts contain numerous reference s to
treatments, rinses, lotions, infusions and pastes for
beautifying, s trengthening and improving hair hea lth,
emphasizing how Indians have always prized hair as an
integral part of beauty .Indian women traditionally sport long tresses as this Keralan portrait on glass
illustrates. Often depicting everyday household activities, such paintings were
probably introduced  to India by the British in the 18th century . Subject matter
included religious themes, portraiture, folk art, and more. Their usage was purely
decorative. In I ndian paintings, women are depicted with long hair or
ornamented hairstyles, and the pantheon of Hindu goddesses always
wear ela borate h eadgear . Simila rly , Indian brides take great prid e in
their hairstyles, with dif ferent areas favoring dif ferent styles. The
Punjabi bride wears a red  parandi  (a type of silk tassel) in her hair ,
while Be ngali and Maharashtran brides opt for buns decorated w ith
white flo wers. Further south in T amil Nadu, white, orange and pink
blossoms are woven around a central plait, while Keralan br ides
sport a veil of jasmine buds tied to form anet. In the  Kumarasambhavam , the famous Sanskrit epic poem by
the poet Kalidasa, the hair pre parations for the goddess Parvati’ s
wedding to Shiva are described  in detail: first her maids dried and
scented her hair with incense, then they plaited it into a grac eful
braid, an d finally decorated it with inlaid flowers and a garland of
madhuka  flowers woven with  durva  grass. Scenting the hair with smoke or incense  (dhoop)  while it dries
is a  tradition th at has been practiced by Indian womenfolk for
centuries. Burning charcoal, mixed with  sallaki  or frankincense (a
powder made from the gum of the  Boswellia serrata  tree), is
placed on an ear then or brass tr ay and wafted beneath long tres ses. The ancient equivalent of a ha ir dryer , it helps with drying a fterwashing, imparts fragrance to the hair and prevents fungal
infections, dandruf f and other hair problems. Shampoos were traditionally made from herbal powders, both
A yurvedic and otherwise, and many are still in use today . Popular
herbs for cleansing are the h ighly scented orris root powder ,
thickening arrowroot powder , purifying  amla , neem and
sandalwood for their antiseptic properties, and  reetha  or soap nut. Shikakai,  literally “fruit for hair” is another traditional shampoo in
the f orm of a paste: made from  Acacia concinna  bark that contains
high lev els of saponins or foaming agents, it is a mild clean ser . Whilst the lather is rather weak , it has anaturally low pH , so does
not strip hair of  its natural oils. It also acts as a de-tangler and  is a
useful anti-dandruf f tool. Another ancient custom for healthy hair and scalp often given
on a daily basis is an Indian head massage (see page 26). Less time
intensive is a quick application of hair oil: there are liter ally
hundreds of such oils on the market as Indians believe that they help
hair gro w luxuriantly thick, soft and glossy . In addition, they are
supposed to soothe and invigorate the sense or gans and even
remove wrinkles from the face! Popular hair oils contain
bhringaraj ,  brahmi  and  amla , often combined with other
strengthening, conditioning and antiseptic herbs and plants. Regenerating for hair and stimulating for the scalp, a henna conditioning treatment
is a staple at many  Indian beauty salons. After application, the paste rests on the
head for half an hour , then is washed of f with lukewarm water .A plant much used in Indian hair care is  mehndi  or henna
(Lawsonia inermis) . Antiseptic and nutritious, it is a popular hair
conditioner and gives grey hair a red-orange tint. It has the abilit y to
coat the hair sha ft, thereby protecting and thickening hair . “One of
India’ s age-old beauty secrets is a henna conditioner ,” says herbal
beauty advocate, Shahnaz Husain, “Made from henna paste, mixed
with lem on juice, egg and yog urt, it cleanses and conditions hair ,
promotes new hair growth and restores good health to the scalp.”
She goe s on to add that, unlike chemical deter gents, it doesn’ t
destroy t he natur al acid nature o f the scalp and leaves hair shiny and
supple. Essential oil of henna is also very cooling on the head. The resin of the  Boswellia serrata  tree is collected in a manner similar to rubber
tapping; the harvested gum is then ground into a powder and used in a charcoal
burner to scent the hair. More commonly known as frankincense, the powder is
also used in religious rites and perfumery . A variety of hair cleansing and conditioning routines are
available at Shahnaz Husain salons and day spas — and over -the-
counter conditio ners, rinses and tonics are plentiful in her 100
percent herbal range. Many other Indian spas of fer the sublime headmassage, often as part of a face or body ritual, and a wonderful treat
for dry , dehydrated and sensiti ve scalp and hair is the Ananda’ s
aromatic hot oil treatment with pure essence of lavender , geranium
and rosemary . For a four -prong ed treat, Neemrana Spa’ s heavenly  sirolepam
is a mus t: T aken  from the word s,  siro  meaning “head” and  lepam
translating as “pack”, the treatment (see photos on previous page)
includes a head, neck, face and shoulder massage along with a head
pack to stimulate hair growth and revitalize the brain. the art of mehndi
The application of  mehndi  (henna) as a colorant on ha ir ,
hands and nails is a time-hon ored tradition in India. W ith its
origins in Egypt,  mehndi  was also extensively used in the
Middle East, probably as a cooling device. Coming from the
Lawsonia inermis  shrub, it is known as  madayantika  in
Sanskrit. The small leaves, crushed into a powder and mixed
with water and a little bit of sugar , makes a dark green paste
that turns orange when applied to the skin. Mehndi  has anti- irritant, deodorant and antiseptic properties, and is
used by A yurved ic physicians for skin irritations such as heat rashes
and skin  aller gie s. The paste is also used as an antidote against heat
and sunstroke and, in the past , the leaves were applied to bring
down hi gh fever s. T oday , it ma y be applied to the body during the
intense h eat of the day , and peo ple embarking on a long walk often
apply it on the  soles of feet. Because of its cooling proper ties,
mehndi  leaves and flowers are made into  lotions and ointments that
are u sed externally for boils, bu rns, bruises and skin inflammations. Antiseptic and nutritious to th e head also, it is used as a hair
conditioner and gives grey hair a red/orange tint.Historically , there are many references to this versatile plant. The Muslim prophet Mohammed used  mehndi  for heali ng and he
also dye d his hair and beard with  it. It is recorded in the  Qu’ran  that
his wife and daughters used henna for decoration on occasions such
as Eid celebrati ons and weddings. Some Muslim girls are na med
after the  mehndi  plant. Its small intensely fragrant white flowers
make a wonderfully strong-smelling perfume that is favored by both
men and women. Over time, henna developed into a popular beauty aid, and the
application of  mehndi  in intricate patterns on palms and feet is still
an integ ral part of both Muslim  and Hindu marriage ceremonies. It
is co nsidered a s ign of love — the darker the coloration, the gre ater
the love of the groom for the bride. Sometimes, the  mehndi  is applied with the name of the
husband-to-be h idden in the pattern; if he can’ t find it, he has to pay
a for feit! Often applied with the  singing of songs, there are multiple
patterns, most of which have cultural associations. In Rajasthan
where these photos were taken, patterns typically have lines of v-shaped leaves, peacock feather patterning, a  bhandhej  (tie-dye)
pattern, little acacia leaves and a  laheria  pattern (this literally
translates as “waves of the sea” and is found in geometric or floral
patterns on brightly colored Rajasthani saris). Drawings, powder , paste and examples of henna patterns on hands and feet
photographed at the resort of Amanbagh in Rajasthan. The spa manager at the
Aman spa there learned the art of  mehndi  application from her grandmother:
Using a cone simila r to the type of apparatus used for icing a cake, she painted
hands and feet in intricate patterns. Different henna patterns indicate different
geographical locations and cultural associations. It isn’ t only at m arriages that women decorate their hands and
feet with  mehndi . Ma ny other festivals of fer an excuse for girls to
dress up and adorn themselves, and, increasingly , variations of
traditional patterns may be applied as tattoo-type insignias on other
parts of the body . Many visitors to India try a henna decoration at
least once. As i t is a safe, painless and non-permanent alterna tive
form of body o rnamentation that is gaining favor in the W est,
nowadays you’ll find henna artists in popular tourist destinations
such as beach resorts and bazaars all over India.In the past, large leaves were used for wrapping, as they encouraged swea ting,
thereby removing toxins from beneath the skin’s surface. Here, shiny banana
leaves have been used effectively; in today’ s spas, these have largely been
replaced by plastic, cloth, towels or cling wrap. body wraps
There is something immensely comforting about lying
swaddled in cloth, plastic or blankets while a warming,detoxifying pa ste is doing its work on your body . W ith  its
roots in  Indian bridal tradition, as brides always have a wrap
daily fo r a week prior to their wedding day , the body w rap
in Indi a employs a variety of ingredients. From fruits to
flowers, herbs, spices and clays, a body wrap can be deeply
nurturing. Whatever the wrap components, the idea is that the warmth of the
wrap allows ingredients to penetrate subcutaneously through the
pores of skin. Some wraps are prescribed for their preventative and
curative properties against col d and cough; others are used to
alleviate muscle aches, headaches and fever . Others use minerals
and ingredients  from the ocean such as seaweed to encourage
lymphatic drai nage. All aim to increase blood circulation,
encourage sweating to draw out unwanted toxins, cleanse internally
and on the body’ s surface, and leave skin soft and glowing. In a spa, a polish or scrub may precede a wrap: as skin has been
freshly exfoliated, it is in an optimum condition to receive  the
properties of the wrap. W e outline some innovate wrap solutions:
Ancient Indian Body Mask
Ananda spa, high in the mou ntains above the ashram town of
Rishikesh, utili zes its natural pollutant-free environment with
ingredients close to hand in th is deeply cleansing ritual. First a
combination of herbal roots wi th pure Himalayan spring water is
applied t o the body to slough of f dead cells and prepare the body  for
the therapeutic clay application  to come. This is followed by a
Multani mitti  total body mask; spiced with turmeric, sandal or other
powders, it is applied evenly ov er the body which is then wrap ped
in a sheet. Whilst the mask wo rks its magic, the client receiv es a
facial pressure point massage. Pure bliss. Anna Lepanam
Based on a clin ical therapy from Kerala that was formulated for
muscle strain and fractures, this skin-conditioning traditional
treatment is called Navara  theppu  (theppu  translates as “paste
application”). The ingredients include Navara rice and a  bala  root
decoction and, when the paste is applied to the af fected area for 30–
45 m inutes daily for a period of 21 to 28 days, the healingingredients penetrate deep into the skin and help to activate muscles
after a serious bone fracture. Wild mint and Nilgiri honey are used in a purifying mask at Aura spa, Park New
Delhi. Spa director Megha Dinesh explains how it works: “The wrap is designed to
minimize air supply to the skin so the body temperature rises, pores open, toxins
are released through sweat and the wrap’ s contents are absorbed.”
In a n amended treatment at th e spa at Rajvilas, Navara rice ,
milk and a  bala  root dec oction a re combined with turmeric powder ,
fenugreek seed powder and sandalwood powder into a gruel-like
paste tha t is applied all over the  body . The guest is then invited to
lie wrap ped in warm towels for about 20 minutes. Consid ered
excellent for firming and contou ring the body , it helps increase skin
elasticity and flexibility of the joints.Enzyme-rich papaya is mildly exfoliating, so it removes flaking skin cells from the
surface of the skin, making the body softer and smoother . When enclosed in cling
wrap, the heat encourages the papaya to work in the subcutaneous layers too. You’ll be amazed how skin texture is significantly improved afterwards. Papaya Pamper
The ben eficial ef fects of papain, the main enzyme contained in
papaya, have been well documented. A popular meat tenderizer , it is
also use d as a ho me remedy for stings and bites as it has the ab ility
to br eak down p rotein toxins. In beauty therapy , it is popular fo r its
ability to fracture and remove cosmetic blemishes, skin secretions
and dead skin c ells. In keeping with their tradition of using f resh
ingredients in treatments, Aura spas at Park Hotels of fe r a
wonderful fruity  papaya body wrap that is preceded by an oatmeal
scrub. Ideal for sensitive skin, it leaves the body tingling and skin
glowing after . Saffron Secrets
Before I ndian independence, when the princely states were at the
height of their powers, certain  ingredients were retained for the
women of the Courts: rose petals were out of the range of mere
mortals, and saf fron — rare, expensive and golden — was drunk
with milk by p regnant Maharanis in the belief that any prog eny
would be born with a golden , light complexion. Whether this
worked or not is anyone’ s guess, but certainly its cost would have
been prohibitive to ordinary people.Nowadays, you’ll find saf fron in plenty of spa recipes and the
Aman w rap at the spa at Amanbagh is a case in point. Consisting of
a local clay and water mix with hibiscus, rose and saf fron, it is
applied all over the body directly after a 10-minute steam. As pores
on the skin’ s surface will have o pened up after the steam, the skin is
super receptive  to the healing and scenting properties of the
ingredients. As the client lies, c ocooned in clay and wrapped in a
heavy towel, the therapist keeps contact with a gentle head massage
for further relaxation.body scrubs and polishes
Found not only in India, bu t in many countries worldwide,
scrubs and polishes are wonderfully enlivening. In India,
herbal or other natural ingredients (usually of an abrasive,
but gently abrasive, nature) are combined with oil and
massaged all over the body to increase circulation, open
pores, boost metabolism and open the skin to receive the
properties contained within the polish. A polish also
exfoliates the skin’ s surface  of dead cells that build up on
the outer layer; these tend to give dull skin tone, so a polish
literally does as it says. Ski n is always smoother , brighter
and more translucent after an exfoliating polish. Scrubs and polishes can also b e helpful for people with cellu lite,
although they do not constitute  a miracle cure. Lumpy pocket s of
cellulite — unsightly deposits of water , fat and other wastes —
build up  on thighs, buttocks, hips and upper arms and not only look
unattractive, but  are dif ficult to dissipate. It is believed that these
toxins and wastes become “tra pped” within hardened connective
tissue in cells — so releasing them is not easy . A healthy diet, a
strong lymphatic system, reg ular exercise and vigorous skin
“brushing” can all help. T raditionally , Indians used dry powder scrubs and polishes to
reduce water retention and improve the elimination of waste
products. Made  from gram fl our and oatmeal, found in m ost
kitchens, it is called an  ubtan  scrub. Given to every Hindu bride toexfoliate, clean se and symbolize the end of one life and the
beginning of another ,  ubtan  can be found all  over the countr y . Clay
is a nother popular product: Black clay is traditionally used in
Rajasthan to both nourish and ti ghten skin and is applied externally
on skin diseases. It is also used to wash the hair . At Q uan Spa at  the JW Marriott Mumbai, the choice of body
polishes and scrubs reads like a geographical tour of the In dian
subcontinent. Usually of fered in  conjunction with another treatment
— n amely a wrap to infuse substances into the body system , a
massage to improve circulation and also allow herbal oils to do their
work in  the deep tissues, a steam or a V ichy shower — they  are
deeply nourishing. Many have been composed with In dian
ingredients and perfumes, and, whilst the guest may choose w hich
scent or ingredient he or she is drawn to, a high-quality herbal o il is
chosen t o suit individual  doshas . Ch oose from t he alluring menu
below:
Rich in minerals, clay polishes skin as it both draws impurities and toxins from
deep within the body and smoothes surface texture. As it retains temperature , clay
can be applied either cool or heated for different effects. This clay mix benefits
from the addition of saf fron, so the skin is nourished and revitalized too.Allepey Body Polish : D rawin g inspiration from the backwaters
of K erala, this is  a coconut and cardamom combo that is antioxi dant
and full of nutrients. Kollegal Body Polish : Th e Kollegal region has been India’ s
source of sandalwood for centuries, so antiseptic, coo ling
sandalwood is combined here with high-mineral content mud, for an
ener gizing, cleansing experience. Madurai Body Polish : The temple town of Madurai  in T amil
Nadu forms the backdrop for this polish; jasmine-scented oils, along
with the  lighting  of oil lamps and ringing of bells, anoint the b ody
for a balancing, aromatic journey . Malabar Body Polish:  India’ s Malabar coast was the port of call
for A rab traders in their sturdy  dhows , so this polish t akes its name
and ingredients from the Spice  T rade; combined with a coo ling
lentil exfoliant to moderate the heat of the spices used, it is intense
and warming. Natural sea salt is used in many body  polishes as it removes dry skin, increases
circulation and leaves the body smooth and soft. It also re-mineralizes beneath the
skin’s surface, so is detoxifying and invigorating at the same time. This polish is
mixed with jasmine petals and jasmine essential oil for an alluring Indian scent.Hand-picked jasmin e, known as  mogra  in Hindi, is a key component of the
Madurai body polish. India’ s sweetest -scented flower , jasmine is frequently usedas an of fering, a hair ornament and in the production of garlands as well. Ila, a skincare company that specialises in 100 percent natural products, carries
an energi zing and detoxifying polish made from pure Himalayan salt crystals,
scented with geranium, rose and wild juniper berry oils. Argan oil is another
ingredient: it has a natural SPF  and antioxidant, anti-aging properties.Dawn sees morning bathing on the ghats of holy lakes, rivers and tanks all over
India. Traditionally , to cleanse in holy water is to wash away sin, greed, envy and
evil in order to emerge physically and metaphorically pure. Devotees subm erge
themselves in the water , give offerings of water to their ancestors and pay homage
to the new day . It’s a ritual followed by everybody — rich and poor . water therapies
Bathing traditi ons are widespread and deep-seated in Ind ian
culture. For Hindus, ritua l bathing is seen as a holy
purification rit e: Whether it is the washing of hands befo re ameal or a trip to a holy rive r , a dip in water is necessa rily
imbued with significance. Pilgrimages always involve
absolution by water in one w ay or another as well. Musli ms,
too, use water rituals for both healing and purification, and
are requested to perform ablutions before entering a
mosque. Situated on anorth-south axis, Mohenjo daro’ s Great Bath has two large staircases
leading down to the bath itself. In the ancient Indus River Valley civilization, it was
almost certainly used for rituals as well as cleansing. It is known that Indians prized both physical and mental cleanliness,
and were bathing regularly fa r before most people in W estern
countries took up the practice. O ne of the most intriguing struct ures
at the ruins of M ohenjodaro, on e of the lar gest metropolises of the
Indus V alley Civilization, is the 2-meter (6-foot) deep brick
structure called the Great Bath. W aterproofed with tightly packed
bricks and a lay er of bitumen, it was surrounded by cloister - like
rooms that are now believed to have served some religious purpose. Whether bathing  at Mohenjodaro was spiritual or physical or a
combination of both is not kno wn, but the elaborate water su pplysystem and drainage network indicate that the Great Bath was a
very important part of the city . This is backed up by reference to
bathing in ancient A yurvedic texts. These advocate that bathing be a
daily rit ual cond ucted to stimulate the body , remove fatigue, sw eat
and dirt and enhance  ojas  (subtle spiritual ener gy). The V edic texts
indicate that dif ferent  doshas  require dif ferent temperatures of
water . Elsewhere in India, there are numerous extant tracts on mental
and phy sical h ygiene. A 12th-century encyclopedic text f rom
Karnataka called  Manasollasa  gives d etails of scientific
approaches to bathing, whilst the 17th-century handbook wri tten
primarily for royalty  Sivatatvaratnakara  provides similar details
about bathing. The tongue-twisting  Kanthiravanarasarajavijaya
written by Govinda V aidya in 1648 gives a very picturesque
description of a bathing  ghat  (public bath on a river -bank) and
describes the importance of water supplies for bathing. This milk and neem  leaf bath is a purify ing experience: even though the scent isn’t
particularly beautiful (think more vegetal than floral), it is deeply cleansing.Many of India’ s luxury spas offer cleansing, soothing rituals that involve a deep
soak in a tub usual ly situated in a gorgeous spa suite. Clockwise from top left: A
rose petal  and milk bath immortalized by Rajput royalty offered at Udaivilas, a soft-
scented floral bath at Quan spa and a deeply cleansing, leafy-scented neem leaf
bath at Rajvilas.Soap was not traditionally used in Indian bathing. Paradoxically ,
the c ombination of soap and wa ter — although cleansing — is  de-
moisturizing an d accelerates aging. Indians preferred to use
cleansing scrubs  made from grains of gram flour , wheat husk  or
oatmeal to exfoliate and followed this with applications of oil after
drying. Because  many baths were public or semi-public, it was (and
is) normal to keep the  sari  or  dhoti  on whilst bathing. In 21st-century India, a variety of therapeutic, beautifying and
cleansing baths are available at spas and clinics. Oil-infused or
flower -filled ba ths often form the fitting finale to a relaxing,
pampering sequence of treatm ents at a spa. They take their
historical cue from royal bathing practices, and leave you scented,
refreshed or invigorated depending on the bath’ s ingredients. Some
bathing options are very simple,  while others take longer to prepare:
it’ s i nteresting to see how , in on e way or another , they hearken back
to ancient purification rites. Floral Baths
Oberoi Spas by Banyan T ree of fer a number of specialty ba ths,
including their visually arresting marigold bath. In everyday life,
garlands of marigolds are often given to welcome visitors and the
blossoms are used to adorn a home altar or are placed on little leaf
boats with an o il lamp at eve ning  aartis  (prayer rituals). Even
though t hey do not have any religious significance as such, their
golden hues are extremely attra ctive, and when used in a bath the
blooms have astringent qualities. After half an hour ’ s relaxatio n in
this gold-and-vermilion dream water , the skin feels firm and fresh. Another floral bath with a dif ference is Quan Spa’ s
interpretation of the milk bath based on an ancient Indian recipe. Milk has naturally occurring alpha-hydroxy acids that hydrate,
exfoliate and improve skin ela sticity , while  ahswagandha  root,
also known as Indian ginseng, is used in a number of A yurv edic
remedies. It is o ne of the best herbs for the mind, clearing anx iety
and inducing clarity . Rose petals, of course, provide a wonderful
scent. H arnessing the power of water that flows around Ind ia’ s
busiest city , their rose, milk and  ashwagandha  bath can be had as
a s ingle or coup le’ s treatment or combined in a spa package ba sed
on the five elements of fire, water , air , earth and space. Medicinal BathsHydrotherapy , of course, immediately comes to mind when one
considers the bath in a spa s etting. One of the famous Indian
inventions is the hip bath: devised by naturopath Sri Laksh man
Sharma in order to concentrate w ater between the ribs and thigh s, it
helps stimulate circulation in that region, so it’ s good for the
urinary , digestive and excretory systems. The innovative arm and
foot bath is a most important application in the case of bronc hial
asthma, as the reflex areas on the palms and soles are related to  the
lungs. It is also helpful for migraine suf ferers.The rose petal and milk bath traces its roots to Rajput queens who would soak in
stepwells after treating their bodies to a body scrub of turmeric, sandalw ood,
green gram flour and yogurt. Exfoliated skin would then be better prepared to
absorb the moisturizing properties of the milk and the scent of royal roses. In A yurv eda, medicinal baths are not overly used, though steam
baths come under the category  of some preparatory oleation and
fomentation the rapies. Described as a sudation process, medic inal
steam is  used to induce sweating and improve peripheral circula tion
to r educe high blood pressur e and help in the absorption  of
medicinal partic les present in he rbal oils. The steam also augm ents
the elimination of impurities in the excretory system and through
other ou tlets such as sweat glan ds, kidneys and liver . Sometimes, a
steam will also be prescribed for skin or muscle ailments, pain and
swelling. At K alari Kovilakom, where A y urvedic texts are followed to the
book, st eam box es are part and  parcel of the initial stages of the
panchakarma  regime. But the Palace to A yurv eda is also home to
a pin t-sized rosewood bath that often comes into its own at the  end
of a clie nt’ s trea tment. “After the  panchakarma  treatment, patients
often break out in pimples as th eir toxins are released,” explains Dr
Jayan, “so this medicinal bath helps to restore skin conditions.”
Medicated warm  water is also poured into this bath to soothe spinalproblems, muscle ailments and skin conditions. Uterine or rectal
prolapse are also helped by such baths, and people with
hemorrhoids also find them healing. Somewhat like the Japanese, Indians often cleanse themselves before entering a
bath or shower . Brass vessels are favored.Made from rosewoo d, this bath at Kalari Kovilakom is purely medicinal. During a
prolonged detox such as  panchakarma , the skin often erupts with pustules as
poisons are expelled from the body , so a soothing, medicated bath in this little tub
helps surface healing.One notable bath from the Him alayan region is the Bhutanese
stone-heated bath or  sman-chu. Based on the T ibetan medical
system known as  Soba Rig-pa , it works on the same principle as
hot ston e massage. Using the h ealing power of heat from pristine
mountain hot springs, the warmth from the water stimulates
peripheral circulation and ca n also penetrate deeper , helping
arthritic or rheumatic conditions. The Bhutanese often add herbs
such as artemesia, sage and ephedra to the water , and often use a
salt scrub prior to a dip. Indians traditionally  eschewed soap for an  ubtan  scrub for cleansing while
bathing. This  ubtan  from Udaivilas consists of turmeric, sandalwood, green gram
flour and yogurt. The turmeric leaves skin with a golden glow, while the
sandalwood is soothing and antiseptic  and the yogurt moisturizing and enzyme
rich.rasashastra
Healing With Gems, Crystals, Metals and
Minerals
In A yurveda, gems and prec ious metals are used to balance
planetary influences, increase life force or  prana , and cure
certain diseas es. Their preparation and prescription f alls
under the branch of A yurvedic medicine known as
rasashastra  (literally “mercury medicine”). It developed
relatively late in the A yurvedic calendar , probably aro und
the 8th century , but its pract ices were soon assimilated into
mainstream A yurveda. Rasashastra  basically falls into two
separate categories:  dehavaad  or the “treating of diseases”
and  lohavaad  or the “chemical manufacture of medicines”. In India n spas today , a prescription of gems, metals or minerals is
rare: they are more commonl y found in clinics and hospitals. However , the tradition of using such substances has found new life
in a number of skincare formulations invented by entrepreneurial
chemists and doctors. T iny flecks of gold leaf or silver foil , or
crushed diamonds and pearls, blended with botanical extracts, have
found their way into innovative products. Facials using such
ingredients are the latest in Ind ian skincare: Receive the elixir of
life (gold) through the skin —  and detoxify; use a crushed p earl
exfoliator — and see the dif fer ence in your complexion. And, for
the ultim ate in anti-aging, dazzle with a diamond rehydrator; you
can justify the extravagance, as it’ s doing you good.
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        “The
latter may take the form of the application of warm oil over thebody and the application of hea ted pouches of herbs on the b ody,
but each patient is dif ferent, with dif ferent  dosha  imbalances, so
the treatments always vary. ”
When the body and mind are deemed ready,  pradhanakarma
or the main trea tment designed to each individual’ s needs, beg ins. As its name suggests (panch  means “five” and  karma  means
“action”), the process comprise s five cleansing procedures, each
designed to correct doshic imbalances. They are  vamanam  or
induced vomiti ng, allegedly a painless, drug-induced em etic
process;  virechanam  or induc ed pur gation, whereby  drugs that
stimulate bowel  movements are taken internally;  vasthi, the  use  of
medicated enemas (see pages 32–35);  nasyam  or nasal cleansing
through the application of medical oils or powders (see right); and
rakthamoksham  or detoxification of the blood. Clearly, this therapy is not for the faint-hearted, and the
patient/doctor level of trust needs to be very high. This is why
Kalari K ovilakom insists on a minimum stay of 14 days, so that
doctors can truly assess and m onitor a patient’ s needs. Dr Jayan
explains that rarely are all five therapies prescribed. “For  pitta
imbalances, we prescribe pur gation with oils or powders,  vata
imbalances go the herbal and oil enema route, and  kapha
imbalances are always prescribed  vamanam. Here patients drink
two liters of m ilk or sugar cane juice mixed with special he rbal
medicines to induce vomiting a fter 45 minutes. ” He goes on to say
that  nasyam  is includ ed if there are nasal, throat or brain problems
and bloodletting is useful for skin problems. Hence, a patient may
be p rescribed only one of the five processes; sometimes two or
three, and in rare cases, five. A  nasyam  session at Ayurmana illustrates how a therapist pours medication into
the nostrils. Ghee,  choornam  or powders, or medicated oils are used. Naturally, the strict routine and caring staf f at Kalari Kovilakom
go a  long way to supporting guests on this somewhat grues ome
journey; nevertheless, many first-timers to the process describe both
physical symptoms of discomfort and mental anguish. It is belie ved,
however, that a special diet and  medication, sessions of meditation
and yog a and an unchanging routine provide the support netw ork
needed. Similarly, post-treatment after the guest leaves the premises
in the form of medication, con tact with doctors, rest and die t is
highly recommended. A yurveda, from  time immemorial, has focused on anti-aging
and rejuvenation programs to prevent disease and to maintain an
optimum healthy state. In today’ s world, curative therapies are
increasingly rep lacing preventative ones — and  panchakarma
(both curative and preventative) is one of the more extreme
examples on the A yurvedic menu. Nevertheless, devotees with the
stamina and the will swear by it, and if the venue is carefully
chosen, it may turn out to be a life-changing experience. Ayurvedic powders  and oils used in the  panchakarma  treatment at Kalari
Kovilakom, a retreat in Kerala. The  kizhi  pouches are for the preparation stage,while the tray with the oil lamp is used to bless the patient before any therapy
commences. Proper diet is considered an important part of the healing proces s in
panchakarma. At Kalari Kovilakom all food is prepared according to Ayurvedic
principles with only copper, bell metal, earthenware, stone or brass vessels used
in prepara tion, cook ing and serving. Every patient has a special drink on hand 24
hours a day and meals are served in gleaming brass  katories  (cups) on a banana
leaf covered  thali  tray. mud therapy
Used on the face, mud draws out toxin s very quickly, so it makes for an effective
face mask. It may also be used on the eyes (but only in a pack) to strengthe n the
optic nerve and muscles, relax the eyes, and impart a cooling and de-stressing
effect on the entire eye area. In India, mud therapy falls under the Naturopathy umbrella,
as it employ s one of the Five Great Elements or
Panchmahabhutas (panch  is “five”,  maha  is “great”,
bhuta  is “e lement”). Comprising E arth, W ater, Fire, Air and
Ether, mud therapy unsurprisingly utilizes Earth as its main
healing ingred ient. Mud absorbs, dissolves and elimin ates
toxins from beneath the skin ’ s surface, opens the pores and
improves peripheral blood circulation. As such, it  is
rejuvenating for the body and soothing for the skin. Mud the rapy is employed in the treatment of a variety of ailm ents
such as digestive disorders, skin diseases and more. The world-
famous  Multani mitti or  “mud from Multan”, an area now in
Pakistan, was one of the earliest substances to be used as a beauty
mask. This lime-rich clay was mixed with rice bran and milk or
curd and used as a face pack to  draw out toxins and polluting free
radicals. Indeed, it is still used as such today. Because of its high
mineral content and moisturizin g ef fect, it is a great nourisher and
often ac ts as a conduit for healing ingredients to be absorbed into
the system. A yurvedic texts record that mud draws out heat and
excess  pitta  through the skin; it also says th at  Multani mitti  can be
used by all three  doshas. At Soukya, the integrated wellness center near Bangalore where
Naturopathy is combined with other modalities to create individual
therapeutic programs, mud is used in three ways: as a local ized
application, as a pack and as a fu ll mud bath. Mud is harvested from
the man y ant hills found on site; as the ants have taken the mud
from dee p down, it’ s incredibly pure without any surface polluta nts. Therapists furth er prepare it by sieving it, washing it properly, and
sterilizing it by drying it in sun light. It is then stored carefull y in
airtight containers. “Mud is healing in itself,” expl ains the resident naturopath Dr
Usha Devi. “It has the property  of retaining temperature for a l ong
time, so  depending on the ailm ent, can be applied either hot or
cold. ” H ot mud is used for join t conditions such as arthritis an d to
reduce oedema or water retentio n in localized areas of the body, and
cold mu d helps in the treatment of skin diseases, such as psor iasis
for example. Sometimes, herbs may be added such as disinfecting neem and
turmeric if there is a possibility of infection and castor oil may  be
added to an abdominal pack in liver conditions. It helps stimulate
the circulation of blood towar ds the liver, thereby aiding in  the
detoxification process. Whichever mud therapy is assigned, the feeling is nurturing and
strengthening. The tightening experienced when the mud dries on
the skin is pleasant — be it hot or cold — and as it is straight from
nature, you can be sure it is doing good work. The full mud bath is
particularly invigorating: being slathered in soft, creamy mud, then
having it washed of f afterwards  is a self-indulgent treat. The skinfeels sof t, smooth, tight and tin gly afterwards — and there is no
need for extra moisturizing. Application of mud from top to toe may sound a bit messy (gross even), but it is an
invigorating experie nce especially if the body is wrapped in a blanket after
application. Micro elements from the mud are absorbed into the body and toxins
expelled leaving skin and internal organs refreshed. Mud from Soukya’ s organic site is harvested, mixed with pure water and made into
packs for a variety of uses. When placed on the abdomen, it is left for 20 minutes
to improve  digestion, strengthen the metabolism of the liver, prevent constipation
and speed  up blood circulation to the internal organs. Full of elements such as
iron, manganese, zinc, copper, chromium and cobalt, it is therapeutic in the
extreme. ksheera dhooma
Medicated Milk Steam
A particular A yurvedic method unique to Kerala,  ksheera
dhooma  is presc ribed f or patients with facial palsy, certain
nervous disorders, dif ficulty in voice and speech, headaches
and trigeminal neuralgia (the trigeminal nerve is a cranial
nerve t hat sup plies the face). The word  ksheera  translates
as “milk” and  dhooma  indicates a “fomentation by vapor”. Generally giv en to the fac e, although the steam may be
directed to other parts of the body suf fering from dif fe rent
conditions, it consists of a steaming with medicated milk. It
is considered a treatment for  vata  related disorders. First of all, a selection of herbs is boiled up with cow’ s milk, then
the steam issuing from the mix is passed through a tube to  the
af fected area of the body (this has first been oiled with medic ated
herbal oil chosen according to the body’ s constitution and
condition). The steam makes what is known in A yurvedic circles as
a fomen tation on the face, thereby allowing medicinal properties to
be absorbed. The idea is to stimulate nerve endings and open up the
micro-channels just below the skin’ s surface. At Soukya International Holistic Health Center, the medicated
milk is steamed through a papaya stalk onto the chosen area. This
allows t he prope rties of the herb s and the milk to mix with pap ain,
the active enzyme in papaya,  before it reaches its destinat ion. Papain is helpful in loosening and dissolving the top layer of d ead
skin cells, so, in this case, it helps prepare the skin for the
absorption of the medicated herbs. The treatment is prescribed oncea da y fo r three, five or seven day s consecutively and may be of f ered
in c ombination with other trea tments. It’ s a good example o f a
traditional therapy of fered in modern surrounds. A therapist directs steam from boiling medicated milk on to the face of a patie nt at
the integrated wellness center called Soukya. Known as a  swedan  (fomentation)
therapy,  ksheera dhooma  is tradition ally prescribed for people with  vata  related
disorders (any muscle, ligament, joint or nerve-related disorder). netra tarpanam
Vasthi Therapy for the Eyes
At an A yurved a clinic,  netra tarpanam  is seen as an oral
eye care treatment to help w ith eye strain, dryness of ey es,
poor sight and other eye-rela ted conditions. It is believed to
strengthen the  muscles round the eyes, cool the eyes, oleate
the area  round the eyes and may even help with myopia. As
with all A yurvedic prescriptions, at least a two-week course
is s uggested, and during th e course of the treatment the
patient should not be exposed to harsh light. The treatment uses the mediu m of ghee or  gritham, a type  of
clarified butter that is used all  over India in cooking. “Ghee has
what we call  samskarika anuvarthana  in Sanskrit,” explains
A yurvedic doctor, Dr Y ogesh, “this means it has the specific quality
of being  able to absorb propert ies of herbal products and transfer
them into the skin. ” Depending on the condition,  triphala gritham,
good for the eyesight, or  jeevanthyadhi gritham, a ghee that helps
develop immunity, may be used. T o keep the ghe e in place over the eye socket, a dough of black
or g reen gram fl our paste (gram powder mixed with water) is m ade
and stuc k around both eye cavities. A small amount of ghee me lted
to room temperature is then poured into the watertight enclosure, so
that it fills the contained area a nd makes the eyelashes sink s hut. The ghee is kept on the eyes for 20 minutes, during which time the
patient is encouraged to move the eyes around. It is a slightly fiddly process, and may not be for everybody. Some people experience a burning sensation when the medicatedghee is poured in, and having t o hold still for a long time isn’ t to
every body’ s liking. Strictly speaking,  netra tarpanam  is a  vasthi  therapy (see pages 32–35), as
medicated ghee is kept trapped on a topical area in a watertight “reservoir” of
dough. Whilst the ghee rests in its place, eyes should be rolled around, opened
and closed, thereby allowing the ghee’ s properties to be fully absorbed. kizhi therapy
The Hot Herbal Pouch
In A yurveda, the herbal poultice is a time-honored tradition
of healing with heat. Packed with goodness, warm ed
pouches of herbs, plants, roots, and more, have been applied
to sore, sprained or sad bodies for centuries. Classified as a
swedanam  (Sanskrit for sweat therapy) in the V edic texts,
the herbal poultice is both detoxifying and healing. Specially selected ingredients are tied tightly in natural
cloth, s teamed for a few min utes, then dipped in medicated
herbal oil and applied to the body. On application, the heat
induces sweating, thereby helping to bring toxins to the
surface of the skin; then, once the pores are open, s kin
absorbs the properties of the herbs for healing. The  kizhi  (Mahalayam word for bundle) has proved so popular over
the c enturies, its fame has sprea d to other cultures too. Many South
East Asi an herbal healthcare practices rely on the herbal poultice to
relieve sore muscles and joint pains, while in India, hospi tals,
homestays, spas, wellness centers and salons of fer various forms
both as a stand -alone treatmen t or in conjunction with ano ther
therapy such as massage. The content, method of application and
usage varies widely. Patrapotlaswedanam
The Sanskrit name for this an cient A yurvedic treatment is taken
from  patra  meaning “leaves”,  potla  translating as “pouch” and
swedanam  meaning “fomentation” or “s weat therapy”. Theintegrated medical center called Soukya, just outside Bangalore, is
known for its extensive herb gardens — so their  potla  makes full
use of plants grown on site. Leaves f rom the  castor oil plan t (Ricinus communis ), rich in
oil, are combined with  Datura alba  leaves (this plant is widely
used by A yurvedic and Siddha practitioners in oil-based
preparations for  dressings on w ounds), skin tonifying  nirgundi  or
Vitex nigundo  leaves, and leaves from the  moringo  or drumstick
tree. The se latter leaves are a well-known natural antibiotic. In fact,
all thes e leave s contain anti-inflammatory and pain-reducing
properties, so are useful in arthritic conditions. T o prepare the  potla,
they are washed, torn up and m ixed with crushed garlic, lime and
shredded coconut flesh, then fried with medicated oil in a w ok,
before being knotted up into small pouches. Sand, like clay and mud, has the ability to retain heat or cold, so is an ideal filler
for a heated compress. When dipped in warm, medicated oil, these bundle s of
goodness spread warmth and healing deep into tense or knotted muscles. At the
tranquil Spa Village  in the Pangkor Island Resort in Malaysia, pretty batik cottons
are used to further the pouch’ s appeal. At Soukya, patients who have been prescribed this therapy are
on a  course of seven to 21 day s, and the pouch is combined with
other th erapies. It may be gi ven to people with sciatica, disc
prolapse or lower back pain, and  is usually applied after an external
massage with medicated oil. T w o therapists administer the  potla :
one war ms two of the pouches  in medicated oil, while the other
massages the other two on to af fected areas. Movements include
gentle thudding and rubbing away from the heart. Navara Kizhi
Definitely worth a try is the intriguingly named Navara  kizhi, a
Keralan treatment of fered at many spas and clinics throughout
India. A t Oberoi Spa at Udaivilas, Navara rice (a type of dehus ked,red rice)  is mixed with milk a nd a decoction of  bala  root (Sida
cordifolia ) and  boiled for half an hour until it achieves a gruel-like
consistency. It is then wrapped into a loosely spun cotton cloth that
allows t he mixture to come through easily, and applied on to the
body. The excess liquid is kept i n a reserve pan on a warmer, so that
the pouches may be periodically re-warmed. Bala  root is a powerful cell nourishing and regenerating herb,
and is used in m any A yurvedic  treatments to maintain youth and
vitality. It means “youth” in Sanskrit, and is considered analge sic,
diuretic and stimulating as well. When mixed with Navara rice and
milk, the  proper ties “go quite de ep”, according to A yurvedic doctor,
Dr Y oge sh, who recommends the treatment to develop muscles and
improve muscle tone. “The pouch nourishes the skin, alleviates
vata  problems, improves blood circulation, reduces stif fness and
strengthens both the quantity and quality of the muscles,” he says. V ariations on the Navara  kizhi  include  podi kizhi (podi  means
“powder”;  triphala  or  dashmool  are often used);  dhanya kizhi
(dhanyam  translates as “grains”, so a combination of processed
grains is  used here;  naranga kizhi  using a cloth pouch filled with
lemon and herbs dipped in medicated oils; and  elakizhi (ela  means
“leaves”. All are designed to ac t as a potent anti-rheumatic, so are
helpful for stif fness in the joints. The spa at Amanbagh uses  dashmool  powder (das  means ten,
mool  translates as roots) in its specialized  kizhi  treatment. T ied
securely in immaculate linen pouches, the pretty little bundles are
dipped into warmed, medicated sesame first boiled with handpicked
aak  leaves (Calotropis gigantea ) before application. Aak  is a
plant in the milk weed family that grows profusely in the immediate
locality; known as swallow-wort,  aak  is useful in the treatment of
paralysis, swellings and fever, and it is anti-inflammatory when
applied externally. The Sand Bundle
At the spa at R ajvilas and Spa V illage spas in South East Asia,
fomentation with  small linen pouches filled with sand are the norm. The sand bundle is classified un der  ushema swedanam  therapies,
which translates as “to warm up (bundles) to sweat”. At Rajvilas, sulphur sand from Simla (it can hold its
temperature for a long time) is tied in small linen pouches, w hichare then  dipped in warm medic ated oil chosen according to one’ s
dosha  and pounded on the body. Accompanied by massage, the
therapy is soothing for inflammatory conditions, stif fness of joints
and aching muscles; it also pro motes general wellbeing. The heat
speeds up blood circulation and promotes sweating, which in turn
helps to eliminate toxins from the body. Plucked from the organic garden, Soukya’ s leaves are washed and chopped, then
mixed with lime, coconut and garlic and fried in a wok with medicated oil chosen
according to a patie nt’s health status and  dosha  imbalance. After frying for 10 to
15 minute s, the ingredients are transferred into soft cotton pouches, before being
administered, wonderfully warmed in oil, on problem areas. The gorge ous property in Udaipur known as Udaivilas not only boasts tranquil
surrounds on Lake Pichola, it offers numerous sites for therapy. Built to resemble
a Mewari palace, scallop-edged arches,  jaali  windows, cool sandstone and marble
decorations, as well as abundant gardens, offer a delightful backdrop to a spa
suite. beauty
Ancient beauty  -enhancing rituals are
experiencing a renaissance globally, as
people look towards “natural” rather than
“chemical” solutions to the symptoms of
aging. India is well placed to cater to
such needs, as it is home to a rich
selection of hair, skin and body
treatments, all of which work both
internally and externally to create a
glowing complexion, soft skin andlustrous locks. In addition, we consider
some wonderful de-toxing and
beautifying baths and some inspiring
therapies that employ gems, crystals,
metals and minerals for healing. ayurvedic facial care
Indian women have been harnessing herbs and plants for
skin care for centuries. Nu merous Sanskrit texts outline
facial and other beauty treatments, and evidence of natural
cosmetics dates back to at least 3,000  BC  in excavations of
the In dus V alley civilizat ion in present-day Pakis tan. Instructions for extracts of flowers, leaves, barks and herbs
for both medicinal and cosmetic purposes are plentiful in the
V edas — and the flawlessn ess of Indian women’ s skin is
captured in countless paintings from the past. Some of  the more common Indi an beauty products that have found
a w orldwide market include  kajal  or kohl eyeliner and  mehndi
(henna), as well as various per fumes and oils. Kajal  found fame
with the  Moghul Empress Nur Jehan; it is traditionally made from
triphala, alm ond, camphor and cabbage, all burnt in the oil of rose,
and has been exported for decades. Oils of sandalwood, musk and
rose hav e been traded along w ith India’ s cotton and spices for
centuries, and the Rajput combination of rose and milk for facial
scenting and cleansing is well documented. More recently, as
people h ave become aware of th e potential pitfalls of chemical and
synthetic skin, hair and beauty products, Indian herbal recipes have
become increasingly popular in global markets. In addition to formulating, manufacturing and selling facial
products, India is starting to capitalize on some of its ancient be auty
treatments too. Threading, the ancient art of facial hair extraction, is
finding favor in London and New Y ork day spas, and henna hairtreatments are increasingly pr omoted in high-end hair salons. Marma  massage on the vital ener gy poi nts of the face is a therapy
of fered in many South East Asian spas and the Indian head mass age
is widely used as a “filler” whilst a client is resting with a face
mask, fo r example. These, along with some of the more medicinal
A yurvedic treatments, are ones to watch out for. Many spas, salons and Ayurvedic centers in India are now manufacturing their
own herbal products for sale both domestically and overseas. The ingredients for
the Ananda facial are artfully arrang ed here on a tray. Preceded by a back
massage, it comprises a cleanse, exfoliate, tone, facial massage, clay mask and
moisturize. According to A yurvedic texts, the secret to lasting beauty is
ojas  or the subtle qu ality of vigor o r vitality that is the superfine
essence of the se ven  dhatus  or ti ssues of the body. If  ojas  is strong
and healthy, one has a radiant inner self; this, in turn, manif ests
itself in one’ s outer physical  appearance. Of course, a facial
treatment will help also, and it’ s important to note that m any
A yurvedic facial treatments, of fered at numerous spas and salons
throughout India, are designed  for both outer beauty and innerdetoxification. Often called  mukhalepam  (mukha  is “face”,
lepam  translates as “pack”), they condition and nourish the skin,
open blo cked po res, eliminate toxins internally and cleanse the face
to improve skin texture. A Rajasthani miniature painting depicts a maid helping her mistress with her
toilette (Mankot,  circa  1720). T raditionally, A yurvedic skin care recipes were formulated
according to the healing ingredients that women had to hand in t heir
immediate vicinity. They took into account the condition or  vikruti
of a  person’ s skin, and were  made in the kitchen and used
immediately. Cleansing, nourishing and protecting are the three key
components in A yurvedic skin care and a full treatment is composed
of eight steps: A thorough clean se with an  ubtan  paste; an oleation
massage on the reflex points an d ener gy meridians on the face; a
herbal steam or compress to bri ng out impurities; a gentle scru b to
stimulate circula tion and cleanse the pores; a mask or pack to deep
cleanse, tauten and/or nourish the skin; a toning and rejuvena ting
refresher to refine pores and tone the skin; a deep moisturizer to
protect the skin from the eleme nts and bacteria; and a gentle sp ray
mist to assist ab sorption of the moisturizer and bring vitality to the
entire complexion. Although it would be too tedious to outline all the invigorating
facials you may have the luck to come across in India, a few
deserve special mention for the  quality of their products and  the
skill of the ther apists. Aman spas should be sought out in New
Delhi and Rajasthan (see opp osite) as much for their sup erb
surrounds as their specialist treatments and Shahnaz Husain, the
herbal b eauty tour de force, i s another name to watch out for. Another must is the A yurvedic facial at Soukya that works on b oth
the inner and outer levels in order to develop  ojas. It goes  withou t
saying that all s ections are performed with A yurvedic herbs cho sen
according to one’ s constitution and present state of health,
combined with fresh fruits and vegetables selected according to skin
types. Milk, curd, mint, honey, turmeric and sandal form its b asis. The handpicked  ingredients supply much-needed vitamins and
minerals, while packs even out color tone, soothe and moisturize the
skin, an d leave the face soft and supple. Steam ensures that the
ingredients are absorbed into the deepest layer of the s kin,
stimulating it and ensuring healthy new cell growth. The Park Hotels’ line of day spas called Aura also of fer a
number of super -fresh, natural  facial sequences. Harnessing the
power of rare combinations of natural herbs, fruits, flowers and
spices, each is individually designed for dif ferent complexions. Those w ith dry skin would be well advised to try the saf fron and
almond number: a gentle anti-aging treatment, it uses pure  rawa
(semolina) for exfoliation and then gives skin a blast with a saf fronand almond mask. Saf fron is a powerful ingredient for boosting skin
longevity and almonds are high in vitamin  E, a crucial component in
skin sof tening. The result is th e minimizing of fine lines and a
refreshed, clearer complexion. Aman spas’ “Royal Beauty” or  Shahi Nikhar  is a complete facial  treatment fit for a
Maharani. Featuring such Indian exotics as honey, milk and rose, passion flower,
geranium, cassia flower and chamomile, it smells as good as it feels. Designed to
cleanse and soften skin, it also boosts  cell renewal and draws out pollutants from
the complexion. Cucumber traces its roots to northern India, although it is widely available in the
West. It contains natural salts, enzymes and vitamins essential for strong cell
growth and repair; in addition, it has a high mineral content and is a natural source
of antioxid ants. At Aura spas in Kolka ta, Chennai and New Delhi, cucumb er is
used on the skin as a sunburn soother, as well as a facial toner and moisturizer. The fresh apple facial, on the o ther hand, is recommended for
oily to normal skins. Kashmiri women, renowned for their clear, fair
complexions, have applied mashed apple and apricots, mixed with
honey, t o their faces for centuries. At Aura, slices of apple, ric h in
antioxidants and  creamed with humectant honey, are rubbed o n tothe f ace to rehyd rate and revitalize. W ith its fresh, fruity aroma  and
the gen tle nurturing movements of well-trained therapists, this
facial fires skin with an inner glow. The Kumarakom  mukhalepam  is an other one to look out for: it
is excellent for dry, oily and combination skins and for people with
dif ferent  doshas. Made entirely from ingredients fresh from the
market, it is a wonderfully na tural sequence. Utilizing a wheat
powder and juice combo to tig hten skin; an aloe vera massage; a
moisturizing cucumber freshener; a scrub from orange peel, ground
strawberry, guava and apple seeds to exfoliate; a crushed papaya
polish; a  pack of  Multani mitti  powder mixed with lots of fresh
produce and juice, it is good enough to eat. Inexpensive, fast and neat, threading works well to remove facial hair and stray
eyebrow hairs. Using teeth and hands, the practitioner utilizes a loop of cotton totrap a series of unwanted hairs and pull them from the skin. As with twee zers,
results last from two to four weeks. The energ izing facial treatment ingredients at Soukya (see  below ): While the
properties fom Soukya’ s delicate warmed herbal pouches penetrate into the skin
(see  left), a gentle  massage increases periphe ral circulation and oxygenates the
facial cells. Turmeric, a staple in Indian cuisine, doubles up as a beauty product
(see  right). When combined with  rawa  (semolina) and cleansing red sandal
powder, it ef fectively exfoliates dead skin cells. hand care
A yurvedic tex ts emphasize  the importance of self-care,
declaring that the body has the means to heal itself. As su ch,
there are numerous guidelines in the major medical treatises
for maintenance of healthy skin, or gans, digestive sys tem
and more. If  ojas  is strong and the life force is flowing
freely, a person looks dynamic, vigorous and well cared for. A toxin -free internal system is reflected externally w ith
glowing skin, bright eyes and healthy limbs. Similarly, such
a perso n is mentally asse rtive, emotionally caring and
spiritually pure. On t he other hand, if there are internal health problems, these may
be detec table externally. In many cases, they are reflected in the
state of one’ s finger nails. As nails are a by-product ( mala ) of bones
(asthi dhatu ), they often reflect problems within the body tissues
(dhatu ). For example, a liver conditio n called W ilson’ s Disease is
easily spotted by the formation of exaggerated lar ge whitish areas
on the nails. White spots on the nails show a calcium or zinc
deficiency, while brown lines running down the nail indicate
possible inflammatory bowel di sease. Brittle nails can warn of low
iron or V itamin A, kidney malf unction or poor circulation. Ridges
across the nails often accompany acute infections. A yurvedic doctors suggest regular nail inspection, and daily or
weekly hand and nail care. Hands are a vulnerable part of the body
and are subject to premature a ging, so need daily care. A handmassage is an ex cellent way to stimulate  marma  points and ener gy
meridians, thus releasing toxins  and invigorating  ojas. As  wit h the
face, certain points on the hands  are associated with various or g ans
and syst ems wit hin the body, so  a hand massage is not only loc ally
stimulating. For example, pressing gently into the center of the palm
stimulates the kidney area, while a massage between the thumb and
index finger helps with digestion. Many spas and clinics in India  of fer hand massage, often as a
prelude or to accompany another treatment. Comprising part of a
karashubakari  (“manicure” in Sanskrit), it can be particularly
pleasant. Many of these manicures utilize homemade herbal pastes,
scrubs and tonics and combine them with mainstream hand and nail
care such as cutting and filing nails, cuticle care and the application
of nail polish. O f particular note is the pampering manicure at the
Indus V alley A yurvedic Center: in this sequence, milk (high in lactic
acid) is used to soften hands; a disinfecting neem paste makes for a
tingling purifier ; herbal medicated oil according to one’ s  dosha  is
the base  for a vigorous hand massage; gelatine and lemon remo ves
dead surface cells while lemon  juice and sugar exfoliates; an d a
herbal pack made from  Multani mitti, milk and rosewater tightens
the skin. At over 90 minutes, it is a ritual to relish. A rich jade color, this neem paste is part of the relaxing herbal manicure given in
the comfortable Shringar Herbal Beauty Salon at the Indus Valley Ayurvedic
Center. In Indian salons, a manicure often includes a hand massage that extends all the
way up the arms. At the spa at Neemrana Fort Palace, a therapist locates
pressure points on the wrist — for deep cleansing as well as relaxation. Certain Aura spas’ therapists are trained in the art of a very particular hand
massage technique. Designed to release emotions, it can be quite a powerful
experience. Using thumbs and knuckl es, the therapist pushes up from the tip of
each finge r to release energy — and the same techniques are also employed
elsewhere on the body for a similar ef fect. foot care
In I ndia, when entering a hom e it is traditional to step across
the threshold with the right foot first. Shoes are often taken
of f, as they are when entering a temple or mosque (here feet
are often washed too), and touching the feet of an elder is
considered a mark of respect. As in other parts of Asia, feet
are full of symbolism. According to A yurvedic lore, an imbalance of  vata  lies at the heart
of all foot problems. As is u sual, most physicians recomm end
prevention rather than cure, stressing that regular foot care, pro per
posture and sensible footwea r also go a long way towards
ameliorating existing problems. Alternating hot and cold footbaths
help with aching feet and poor circulation, while regular foot
hygiene and exercise allow you to put your best foot forward at all
times. In  the same way that a footbath was traditionally of fered to
visitors after a l ong journey, today it often sets the tone at a spa. Given b efore a treatment, it benefits more than just the feet a s it
revitalizes the nervous system, improves circulation and provides a
feeling of general wellbeing. The  Charaka Samita  notes that the application of oil is the
best remedy for tired or neglected feet. It is said to alleviate coarse
and rough skin and reduce stif fness, fatigue and numbness. Furthermore, after a  padhabyangha  massage (foot massage with
oil), loca lized veins and ligaments are strengthened and feet bec ome
firm and  strong. In addition, vis ion is supposed to be enhanced, as
nerves in the soles of the feet are associated with the eyes. Padhabyangham  tends to concentrate on the pressure points
located on the soles of the feet, as it is believed that these are
connected by ener gy channels to internal or gans. Sesame or cooling
coconut oil is favored, and if the oil is enlivened with essential oils
such as peppermint,  tulsi  or black pepper, feet are also given an
antiseptic and tension-relieving  boost. It is said that a str ong
rotating, kneadi ng foot massage before bed results in a tranquil
night’ s sleep. At m any spas b oth in India and elsewhere, foot reflexology or
foot massage is a staple on the menu. Often given whilst a client lies
cocooned in a b ody wrap or as  one part of a foot ritual, there is
something wickedly sensual about having your feet nurtured in s uch
a m anne r. Anoth er option is to walk along an uneven path in bare
feet (as recommended at Soukya and Kalari Kovilakom): a couple
of ci rcumambulations around su ch a path sends messages from the
trigger p oints on  the soles of the feet through the meridian chan nels
to th e in ternal o r gans. Y our body will benefit, even if your feet feel
a little painful. “As the snake does n’t approach the eagle, so disease doesn’t affect the person
who mass ages his feet before sleepin g” goes an old Indian saying. As such, foot
massage to the  marma  points on the feet is a family activity, often given by
children to elders. Invigorating and enlivening, it is good not only for the feet, but
for the entire body. In the same way  that soap was eschewed for an  ubtan  scrub to
cleanse and purify the body, A yurvedic physicians and beauty
therapists recom mend cleaning the feet with a scrub. Not only does
this exfo liate de ad skin cells, it helps prevent foot odor and fu ngal
and bact erial infections. For a v ery Indian sensation, try the Masala
spice scrub at T aj spas: a boost for the circulation, it promotes deep
cleansing. Another winner is the or ganic thyme and peppermint
scrub at Quan sp a in Mumbai: when followed by a  marma  massage
with  parijat  oil, it leaves the whole body profoundly relaxed. The floral footbath is a staple at Indian spas, as it is elsewhere around the globe. Jasmine, rose, frangipani and chrysanthemum blooms are all popular. The four steps at Neemrana Fort Palace’ s sublime  sirolepam  treatment includes a
head massage that extends to the face, neck and shoulder areas, a mud and
yogurt pack that penetrates deeply into the epidermal layer of the scalp, a
shampoo and a final conditioner. Traditionally, hair packs were covered with leaf
wraps. hair care
Indian women are renowned for their dark, thick and
lustrous locks. Ancient texts contain numerous reference s to
treatments, rinses, lotions, infusions and pastes for
beautifying, s trengthening and improving hair hea lth,
emphasizing how Indians have always prized hair as an
integral part of beauty. Indian women traditionally sport long tresses as this Keralan portrait on glass
illustrates. Often depicting everyday household activities, such paintings were
probably introduced  to India by the British in the 18th century. Subject matter
included religious themes, portraiture, folk art, and more. Their usage was purely
decorative. In I ndian paintings, women are depicted with long hair or
ornamented hairstyles, and the pantheon of Hindu goddesses always
wear ela borate h eadgear. Simila rly, Indian brides take great prid e in
their hairstyles, with dif ferent areas favoring dif ferent styles. The
Punjabi bride wears a red  parandi  (a type of silk tassel) in her hair,
while Be ngali and Maharashtran brides opt for buns decorated w ith
white flo wers. Further south in T amil Nadu, white, orange and pink
blossoms are woven around a central plait, while Keralan br ides
sport a veil of jasmine buds tied to form anet. In the  Kumarasambhavam, the famous Sanskrit epic poem by
the poet Kalidasa, the hair pre parations for the goddess Parvati’ s
wedding to Shiva are described  in detail: first her maids dried and
scented her hair with incense, then they plaited it into a grac eful
braid, an d finally decorated it with inlaid flowers and a garland of
madhuka  flowers woven with  durva  grass. Scenting the hair with smoke or incense  (dhoop)  while it dries
is a  tradition th at has been practiced by Indian womenfolk for
centuries. Burning charcoal, mixed with  sallaki  or frankincense (a
powder made from the gum of the  Boswellia serrata  tree), is
placed on an ear then or brass tr ay and wafted beneath long tres ses. The ancient equivalent of a ha ir dryer, it helps with drying a fterwashing, imparts fragrance to the hair and prevents fungal
infections, dandruf f and other hair problems. Shampoos were traditionally made from herbal powders, both
A yurvedic and otherwise, and many are still in use today. Popular
herbs for cleansing are the h ighly scented orris root powder,
thickening arrowroot powder, purifying  amla, neem and
sandalwood for their antiseptic properties, and  reetha  or soap nut. Shikakai,  literally “fruit for hair” is another traditional shampoo in
the f orm of a paste: made from  Acacia concinna  bark that contains
high lev els of saponins or foaming agents, it is a mild clean ser. Whilst the lather is rather weak, it has anaturally low pH, so does
not strip hair of  its natural oils. It also acts as a de-tangler and  is a
useful anti-dandruf f tool. Another ancient custom for healthy hair and scalp often given
on a daily basis is an Indian head massage (see page 26). Less time
intensive is a quick application of hair oil: there are liter ally
hundreds of such oils on the market as Indians believe that they help
hair gro w luxuriantly thick, soft and glossy. In addition, they are
supposed to soothe and invigorate the sense or gans and even
remove wrinkles from the face. Popular hair oils contain
bhringaraj,  brahmi  and  amla, often combined with other
strengthening, conditioning and antiseptic herbs and plants. Regenerating for hair and stimulating for the scalp, a henna conditioning treatment
is a staple at many  Indian beauty salons. After application, the paste rests on the
head for half an hour, then is washed of f with lukewarm water. A plant much used in Indian hair care is  mehndi  or henna
(Lawsonia inermis). Antiseptic and nutritious, it is a popular hair
conditioner and gives grey hair a red-orange tint. It has the abilit y to
coat the hair sha ft, thereby protecting and thickening hair. “One of
India’ s age-old beauty secrets is a henna conditioner,” says herbal
beauty advocate, Shahnaz Husain, “Made from henna paste, mixed
with lem on juice, egg and yog urt, it cleanses and conditions hair,
promotes new hair growth and restores good health to the scalp. ”
She goe s on to add that, unlike chemical deter gents, it doesn’ t
destroy t he natur al acid nature o f the scalp and leaves hair shiny and
supple. Essential oil of henna is also very cooling on the head. The resin of the  Boswellia serrata  tree is collected in a manner similar to rubber
tapping; the harvested gum is then ground into a powder and used in a charcoal
burner to scent the hair. More commonly known as frankincense, the powder is
also used in religious rites and perfumery. A variety of hair cleansing and conditioning routines are
available at Shahnaz Husain salons and day spas — and over -the-
counter conditio ners, rinses and tonics are plentiful in her 100
percent herbal range. Many other Indian spas of fer the sublime headmassage, often as part of a face or body ritual, and a wonderful treat
for dry, dehydrated and sensiti ve scalp and hair is the Ananda’ s
aromatic hot oil treatment with pure essence of lavender, geranium
and rosemary. For a four -prong ed treat, Neemrana Spa’ s heavenly  sirolepam
is a mus t: T aken  from the word s,  siro  meaning “head” and  lepam
translating as “pack”, the treatment (see photos on previous page)
includes a head, neck, face and shoulder massage along with a head
pack to stimulate hair growth and revitalize the brain. the art of mehndi
The application of  mehndi  (henna) as a colorant on ha ir,
hands and nails is a time-hon ored tradition in India. W ith its
origins in Egypt,  mehndi  was also extensively used in the
Middle East, probably as a cooling device. Coming from the
Lawsonia inermis  shrub, it is known as  madayantika  in
Sanskrit. The small leaves, crushed into a powder and mixed
with water and a little bit of sugar, makes a dark green paste
that turns orange when applied to the skin. Mehndi  has anti- irritant, deodorant and antiseptic properties, and is
used by A yurved ic physicians for skin irritations such as heat rashes
and skin  aller gie s. The paste is also used as an antidote against heat
and sunstroke and, in the past, the leaves were applied to bring
down hi gh fever s. T oday, it ma y be applied to the body during the
intense h eat of the day, and peo ple embarking on a long walk often
apply it on the  soles of feet. Because of its cooling proper ties,
mehndi  leaves and flowers are made into  lotions and ointments that
are u sed externally for boils, bu rns, bruises and skin inflammations. Antiseptic and nutritious to th e head also, it is used as a hair
conditioner and gives grey hair a red/orange tint. Historically, there are many references to this versatile plant. The Muslim prophet Mohammed used  mehndi  for heali ng and he
also dye d his hair and beard with  it. It is recorded in the  Qu’ran  that
his wife and daughters used henna for decoration on occasions such
as Eid celebrati ons and weddings. Some Muslim girls are na med
after the  mehndi  plant. Its small intensely fragrant white flowers
make a wonderfully strong-smelling perfume that is favored by both
men and women. Over time, henna developed into a popular beauty aid, and the
application of  mehndi  in intricate patterns on palms and feet is still
an integ ral part of both Muslim  and Hindu marriage ceremonies. It
is co nsidered a s ign of love — the darker the coloration, the gre ater
the love of the groom for the bride. Sometimes, the  mehndi  is applied with the name of the
husband-to-be h idden in the pattern; if he can’ t find it, he has to pay
a for feit. Often applied with the  singing of songs, there are multiple
patterns, most of which have cultural associations. In Rajasthan
where these photos were taken, patterns typically have lines of v-shaped leaves, peacock feather patterning, a  bhandhej  (tie-dye)
pattern, little acacia leaves and a  laheria  pattern (this literally
translates as “waves of the sea” and is found in geometric or floral
patterns on brightly colored Rajasthani saris). Drawings, powder, paste and examples of henna patterns on hands and feet
photographed at the resort of Amanbagh in Rajasthan. The spa manager at the
Aman spa there learned the art of  mehndi  application from her grandmother:
Using a cone simila r to the type of apparatus used for icing a cake, she painted
hands and feet in intricate patterns. Different henna patterns indicate different
geographical locations and cultural associations. It isn’ t only at m arriages that women decorate their hands and
feet with  mehndi. Ma ny other festivals of fer an excuse for girls to
dress up and adorn themselves, and, increasingly, variations of
traditional patterns may be applied as tattoo-type insignias on other
parts of the body. Many visitors to India try a henna decoration at
least once. As i t is a safe, painless and non-permanent alterna tive
form of body o rnamentation that is gaining favor in the W est,
nowadays you’ll find henna artists in popular tourist destinations
such as beach resorts and bazaars all over India. In the past, large leaves were used for wrapping, as they encouraged swea ting,
thereby removing toxins from beneath the skin’s surface. Here, shiny banana
leaves have been used effectively; in today’ s spas, these have largely been
replaced by plastic, cloth, towels or cling wrap. body wraps
There is something immensely comforting about lying
swaddled in cloth, plastic or blankets while a warming,detoxifying pa ste is doing its work on your body. W ith  its
roots in  Indian bridal tradition, as brides always have a wrap
daily fo r a week prior to their wedding day, the body w rap
in Indi a employs a variety of ingredients. From fruits to
flowers, herbs, spices and clays, a body wrap can be deeply
nurturing. Whatever the wrap components, the idea is that the warmth of the
wrap allows ingredients to penetrate subcutaneously through the
pores of skin. Some wraps are prescribed for their preventative and
curative properties against col d and cough; others are used to
alleviate muscle aches, headaches and fever. Others use minerals
and ingredients  from the ocean such as seaweed to encourage
lymphatic drai nage. All aim to increase blood circulation,
encourage sweating to draw out unwanted toxins, cleanse internally
and on the body’ s surface, and leave skin soft and glowing. In a spa, a polish or scrub may precede a wrap: as skin has been
freshly exfoliated, it is in an optimum condition to receive  the
properties of the wrap. W e outline some innovate wrap solutions:
Ancient Indian Body Mask
Ananda spa, high in the mou ntains above the ashram town of
Rishikesh, utili zes its natural pollutant-free environment with
ingredients close to hand in th is deeply cleansing ritual. First a
combination of herbal roots wi th pure Himalayan spring water is
applied t o the body to slough of f dead cells and prepare the body  for
the therapeutic clay application  to come. This is followed by a
Multani mitti  total body mask; spiced with turmeric, sandal or other
powders, it is applied evenly ov er the body which is then wrap ped
in a sheet. Whilst the mask wo rks its magic, the client receiv es a
facial pressure point massage. Pure bliss. Anna Lepanam
Based on a clin ical therapy from Kerala that was formulated for
muscle strain and fractures, this skin-conditioning traditional
treatment is called Navara  theppu  (theppu  translates as “paste
application”). The ingredients include Navara rice and a  bala  root
decoction and, when the paste is applied to the af fected area for 30–
45 m inutes daily for a period of 21 to 28 days, the healingingredients penetrate deep into the skin and help to activate muscles
after a serious bone fracture. Wild mint and Nilgiri honey are used in a purifying mask at Aura spa, Park New
Delhi. Spa director Megha Dinesh explains how it works: “The wrap is designed to
minimize air supply to the skin so the body temperature rises, pores open, toxins
are released through sweat and the wrap’ s contents are absorbed. ”
In a n amended treatment at th e spa at Rajvilas, Navara rice,
milk and a  bala  root dec oction a re combined with turmeric powder,
fenugreek seed powder and sandalwood powder into a gruel-like
paste tha t is applied all over the  body. The guest is then invited to
lie wrap ped in warm towels for about 20 minutes. Consid ered
excellent for firming and contou ring the body, it helps increase skin
elasticity and flexibility of the joints. Enzyme-rich papaya is mildly exfoliating, so it removes flaking skin cells from the
surface of the skin, making the body softer and smoother. When enclosed in cling
wrap, the heat encourages the papaya to work in the subcutaneous layers too. You’ll be amazed how skin texture is significantly improved afterwards. Papaya Pamper
The ben eficial ef fects of papain, the main enzyme contained in
papaya, have been well documented. A popular meat tenderizer, it is
also use d as a ho me remedy for stings and bites as it has the ab ility
to br eak down p rotein toxins. In beauty therapy, it is popular fo r its
ability to fracture and remove cosmetic blemishes, skin secretions
and dead skin c ells. In keeping with their tradition of using f resh
ingredients in treatments, Aura spas at Park Hotels of fe r a
wonderful fruity  papaya body wrap that is preceded by an oatmeal
scrub. Ideal for sensitive skin, it leaves the body tingling and skin
glowing after. Saffron Secrets
Before I ndian independence, when the princely states were at the
height of their powers, certain  ingredients were retained for the
women of the Courts: rose petals were out of the range of mere
mortals, and saf fron — rare, expensive and golden — was drunk
with milk by p regnant Maharanis in the belief that any prog eny
would be born with a golden, light complexion. Whether this
worked or not is anyone’ s guess, but certainly its cost would have
been prohibitive to ordinary people. Nowadays, you’ll find saf fron in plenty of spa recipes and the
Aman w rap at the spa at Amanbagh is a case in point. Consisting of
a local clay and water mix with hibiscus, rose and saf fron, it is
applied all over the body directly after a 10-minute steam. As pores
on the skin’ s surface will have o pened up after the steam, the skin is
super receptive  to the healing and scenting properties of the
ingredients. As the client lies, c ocooned in clay and wrapped in a
heavy towel, the therapist keeps contact with a gentle head massage
for further relaxation. body scrubs and polishes
Found not only in India, bu t in many countries worldwide,
scrubs and polishes are wonderfully enlivening. In India,
herbal or other natural ingredients (usually of an abrasive,
but gently abrasive, nature) are combined with oil and
massaged all over the body to increase circulation, open
pores, boost metabolism and open the skin to receive the
properties contained within the polish. A polish also
exfoliates the skin’ s surface  of dead cells that build up on
the outer layer; these tend to give dull skin tone, so a polish
literally does as it says. Ski n is always smoother, brighter
and more translucent after an exfoliating polish. Scrubs and polishes can also b e helpful for people with cellu lite,
although they do not constitute  a miracle cure. Lumpy pocket s of
cellulite — unsightly deposits of water, fat and other wastes —
build up  on thighs, buttocks, hips and upper arms and not only look
unattractive, but  are dif ficult to dissipate. It is believed that these
toxins and wastes become “tra pped” within hardened connective
tissue in cells — so releasing them is not easy. A healthy diet, a
strong lymphatic system, reg ular exercise and vigorous skin
“brushing” can all help. T raditionally, Indians used dry powder scrubs and polishes to
reduce water retention and improve the elimination of waste
products. Made  from gram fl our and oatmeal, found in m ost
kitchens, it is called an  ubtan  scrub. Given to every Hindu bride toexfoliate, clean se and symbolize the end of one life and the
beginning of another,  ubtan  can be found all  over the countr y. Clay
is a nother popular product: Black clay is traditionally used in
Rajasthan to both nourish and ti ghten skin and is applied externally
on skin diseases. It is also used to wash the hair. At Q uan Spa at  the JW Marriott Mumbai, the choice of body
polishes and scrubs reads like a geographical tour of the In dian
subcontinent. Usually of fered in  conjunction with another treatment
— n amely a wrap to infuse substances into the body system, a
massage to improve circulation and also allow herbal oils to do their
work in  the deep tissues, a steam or a V ichy shower — they  are
deeply nourishing. Many have been composed with In dian
ingredients and perfumes, and, whilst the guest may choose w hich
scent or ingredient he or she is drawn to, a high-quality herbal o il is
chosen t o suit individual  doshas. Ch oose from t he alluring menu
below:
Rich in minerals, clay polishes skin as it both draws impurities and toxins from
deep within the body and smoothes surface texture. As it retains temperature, clay
can be applied either cool or heated for different effects. This clay mix benefits
from the addition of saf fron, so the skin is nourished and revitalized too. Allepey Body Polish : D rawin g inspiration from the backwaters
of K erala, this is  a coconut and cardamom combo that is antioxi dant
and full of nutrients. Kollegal Body Polish : Th e Kollegal region has been India’ s
source of sandalwood for centuries, so antiseptic, coo ling
sandalwood is combined here with high-mineral content mud, for an
ener gizing, cleansing experience. Madurai Body Polish : The temple town of Madurai  in T amil
Nadu forms the backdrop for this polish; jasmine-scented oils, along
with the  lighting  of oil lamps and ringing of bells, anoint the b ody
for a balancing, aromatic journey. Malabar Body Polish:  India’ s Malabar coast was the port of call
for A rab traders in their sturdy  dhows, so this polish t akes its name
and ingredients from the Spice  T rade; combined with a coo ling
lentil exfoliant to moderate the heat of the spices used, it is intense
and warming. Natural sea salt is used in many body  polishes as it removes dry skin, increases
circulation and leaves the body smooth and soft. It also re-mineralizes beneath the
skin’s surface, so is detoxifying and invigorating at the same time. This polish is
mixed with jasmine petals and jasmine essential oil for an alluring Indian scent. Hand-picked jasmin e, known as  mogra  in Hindi, is a key component of the
Madurai body polish. India’ s sweetest -scented flower, jasmine is frequently usedas an of fering, a hair ornament and in the production of garlands as well. Ila, a skincare company that specialises in 100 percent natural products, carries
an energi zing and detoxifying polish made from pure Himalayan salt crystals,
scented with geranium, rose and wild juniper berry oils. Argan oil is another
ingredient: it has a natural SPF  and antioxidant, anti-aging properties. Dawn sees morning bathing on the ghats of holy lakes, rivers and tanks all over
India. Traditionally, to cleanse in holy water is to wash away sin, greed, envy and
evil in order to emerge physically and metaphorically pure. Devotees subm erge
themselves in the water, give offerings of water to their ancestors and pay homage
to the new day. It’s a ritual followed by everybody — rich and poor. water therapies
Bathing traditi ons are widespread and deep-seated in Ind ian
culture. For Hindus, ritua l bathing is seen as a holy
purification rit e: Whether it is the washing of hands befo re ameal or a trip to a holy rive r, a dip in water is necessa rily
imbued with significance. Pilgrimages always involve
absolution by water in one w ay or another as well. Musli ms,
too, use water rituals for both healing and purification, and
are requested to perform ablutions before entering a
mosque. Situated on anorth-south axis, Mohenjo daro’ s Great Bath has two large staircases
leading down to the bath itself. In the ancient Indus River Valley civilization, it was
almost certainly used for rituals as well as cleansing. It is known that Indians prized both physical and mental cleanliness,
and were bathing regularly fa r before most people in W estern
countries took up the practice. O ne of the most intriguing struct ures
at the ruins of M ohenjodaro, on e of the lar gest metropolises of the
Indus V alley Civilization, is the 2-meter (6-foot) deep brick
structure called the Great Bath. W aterproofed with tightly packed
bricks and a lay er of bitumen, it was surrounded by cloister - like
rooms that are now believed to have served some religious purpose. Whether bathing  at Mohenjodaro was spiritual or physical or a
combination of both is not kno wn, but the elaborate water su pplysystem and drainage network indicate that the Great Bath was a
very important part of the city. This is backed up by reference to
bathing in ancient A yurvedic texts. These advocate that bathing be a
daily rit ual cond ucted to stimulate the body, remove fatigue, sw eat
and dirt and enhance  ojas  (subtle spiritual ener gy). The V edic texts
indicate that dif ferent  doshas  require dif ferent temperatures of
water. Elsewhere in India, there are numerous extant tracts on mental
and phy sical h ygiene. A 12th-century encyclopedic text f rom
Karnataka called  Manasollasa  gives d etails of scientific
approaches to bathing, whilst the 17th-century handbook wri tten
primarily for royalty  Sivatatvaratnakara  provides similar details
about bathing. The tongue-twisting  Kanthiravanarasarajavijaya
written by Govinda V aidya in 1648 gives a very picturesque
description of a bathing  ghat  (public bath on a river -bank) and
describes the importance of water supplies for bathing. This milk and neem  leaf bath is a purify ing experience: even though the scent isn’t
particularly beautiful (think more vegetal than floral), it is deeply cleansing. Many of India’ s luxury spas offer cleansing, soothing rituals that involve a deep
soak in a tub usual ly situated in a gorgeous spa suite. Clockwise from top left: A
rose petal  and milk bath immortalized by Rajput royalty offered at Udaivilas, a soft-
scented floral bath at Quan spa and a deeply cleansing, leafy-scented neem leaf
bath at Rajvilas. Soap was not traditionally used in Indian bathing. Paradoxically,
the c ombination of soap and wa ter — although cleansing — is  de-
moisturizing an d accelerates aging. Indians preferred to use
cleansing scrubs  made from grains of gram flour, wheat husk  or
oatmeal to exfoliate and followed this with applications of oil after
drying. Because  many baths were public or semi-public, it was (and
is) normal to keep the  sari  or  dhoti  on whilst bathing. In 21st-century India, a variety of therapeutic, beautifying and
cleansing baths are available at spas and clinics. Oil-infused or
flower -filled ba ths often form the fitting finale to a relaxing,
pampering sequence of treatm ents at a spa. They take their
historical cue from royal bathing practices, and leave you scented,
refreshed or invigorated depending on the bath’ s ingredients. Some
bathing options are very simple,  while others take longer to prepare:
it’ s i nteresting to see how, in on e way or another, they hearken back
to ancient purification rites. Floral Baths
Oberoi Spas by Banyan T ree of fer a number of specialty ba ths,
including their visually arresting marigold bath. In everyday life,
garlands of marigolds are often given to welcome visitors and the
blossoms are used to adorn a home altar or are placed on little leaf
boats with an o il lamp at eve ning  aartis  (prayer rituals). Even
though t hey do not have any religious significance as such, their
golden hues are extremely attra ctive, and when used in a bath the
blooms have astringent qualities. After half an hour ’ s relaxatio n in
this gold-and-vermilion dream water, the skin feels firm and fresh. Another floral bath with a dif ference is Quan Spa’ s
interpretation of the milk bath based on an ancient Indian recipe. Milk has naturally occurring alpha-hydroxy acids that hydrate,
exfoliate and improve skin ela sticity, while  ahswagandha  root,
also known as Indian ginseng, is used in a number of A yurv edic
remedies. It is o ne of the best herbs for the mind, clearing anx iety
and inducing clarity. Rose petals, of course, provide a wonderful
scent. H arnessing the power of water that flows around Ind ia’ s
busiest city, their rose, milk and  ashwagandha  bath can be had as
a s ingle or coup le’ s treatment or combined in a spa package ba sed
on the five elements of fire, water, air, earth and space. Medicinal BathsHydrotherapy, of course, immediately comes to mind when one
considers the bath in a spa s etting. One of the famous Indian
inventions is the hip bath: devised by naturopath Sri Laksh man
Sharma in order to concentrate w ater between the ribs and thigh s, it
helps stimulate circulation in that region, so it’ s good for the
urinary, digestive and excretory systems. The innovative arm and
foot bath is a most important application in the case of bronc hial
asthma, as the reflex areas on the palms and soles are related to  the
lungs. It is also helpful for migraine suf ferers. The rose petal and milk bath traces its roots to Rajput queens who would soak in
stepwells after treating their bodies to a body scrub of turmeric, sandalw ood,
green gram flour and yogurt. Exfoliated skin would then be better prepared to
absorb the moisturizing properties of the milk and the scent of royal roses. In A yurv eda, medicinal baths are not overly used, though steam
baths come under the category  of some preparatory oleation and
fomentation the rapies. Described as a sudation process, medic inal
steam is  used to induce sweating and improve peripheral circula tion
to r educe high blood pressur e and help in the absorption  of
medicinal partic les present in he rbal oils. The steam also augm ents
the elimination of impurities in the excretory system and through
other ou tlets such as sweat glan ds, kidneys and liver. Sometimes, a
steam will also be prescribed for skin or muscle ailments, pain and
swelling. At K alari Kovilakom, where A y urvedic texts are followed to the
book, st eam box es are part and  parcel of the initial stages of the
panchakarma  regime. But the Palace to A yurv eda is also home to
a pin t-sized rosewood bath that often comes into its own at the  end
of a clie nt’ s trea tment. “After the  panchakarma  treatment, patients
often break out in pimples as th eir toxins are released,” explains Dr
Jayan, “so this medicinal bath helps to restore skin conditions. ”
Medicated warm  water is also poured into this bath to soothe spinalproblems, muscle ailments and skin conditions. Uterine or rectal
prolapse are also helped by such baths, and people with
hemorrhoids also find them healing. Somewhat like the Japanese, Indians often cleanse themselves before entering a
bath or shower. Brass vessels are favored. Made from rosewoo d, this bath at Kalari Kovilakom is purely medicinal. During a
prolonged detox such as  panchakarma, the skin often erupts with pustules as
poisons are expelled from the body, so a soothing, medicated bath in this little tub
helps surface healing. One notable bath from the Him alayan region is the Bhutanese
stone-heated bath or  sman-chu. Based on the T ibetan medical
system known as  Soba Rig-pa, it works on the same principle as
hot ston e massage. Using the h ealing power of heat from pristine
mountain hot springs, the warmth from the water stimulates
peripheral circulation and ca n also penetrate deeper, helping
arthritic or rheumatic conditions. The Bhutanese often add herbs
such as artemesia, sage and ephedra to the water, and often use a
salt scrub prior to a dip. Indians traditionally  eschewed soap for an  ubtan  scrub for cleansing while
bathing. This  ubtan  from Udaivilas consists of turmeric, sandalwood, green gram
flour and yogurt. The turmeric leaves skin with a golden glow, while the
sandalwood is soothing and antiseptic  and the yogurt moisturizing and enzyme
rich. rasashastra
Healing With Gems, Crystals, Metals and
Minerals
In A yurveda, gems and prec ious metals are used to balance
planetary influences, increase life force or  prana, and cure
certain diseas es. Their preparation and prescription f alls
under the branch of A yurvedic medicine known as
rasashastra  (literally “mercury medicine”). It developed
relatively late in the A yurvedic calendar, probably aro und
the 8th century, but its pract ices were soon assimilated into
mainstream A yurveda. Rasashastra  basically falls into two
separate categories:  dehavaad  or the “treating of diseases”
and  lohavaad  or the “chemical manufacture of medicines”. In India n spas today, a prescription of gems, metals or minerals is
rare: they are more commonl y found in clinics and hospitals. However, the tradition of using such substances has found new life
in a number of skincare formulations invented by entrepreneurial
chemists and doctors. T iny flecks of gold leaf or silver foil, or
crushed diamonds and pearls, blended with botanical extracts, have
found their way into innovative products. Facials using such
ingredients are the latest in Ind ian skincare: Receive the elixir of
life (gold) through the skin —  and detoxify; use a crushed p earl
exfoliator — and see the dif fer ence in your complexion. And, for
the ultim ate in anti-aging, dazzle with a diamond rehydrator; you
can justify the extravagance, as it’ s doing you good. Section summary: 

This passage discusses several aspects of Ayurvedic holistic approaches. 1. **Praktivism**: Praptives apply wax-cooled oil/poweder on clients' ears/nasal passages to relieve issues linked to Pitta/Kapa balances. *   "Netta Tarapan" Facial Care

*      No description provided. *



Please ensure accuracy and brevity summarization. Also refrain yourself from repetition. Here's accurate yet concise version:


Ayurvedic Treatments


**Therapies**
These alternative remedies focus primarily on correcting _DOSHA_ (_digestion_) imbalanced individuals. •       Each dosage varied due to distinct DOSHAA compositions. **Panachakra Treatment**

Patients undergo intensive fasting & hydration program;
Following consultations, personalized protocols begin ((4)-(7)-days). Some reported side-effects:-pain,-anguish. ,,

Post-Treatment Support Needed:



Focusing on preventive measures instead Curatives are becoming less prominent)



Beauty Enhancement Rituals
Traditional methods emphasizing overall Well-being



Cleansing + Nasion | Skin Rejuvenators| Anti-Aging Solutions|
Natural Skincare Recipes



Body Wraps/Masks/Dermal Absortion Techniques
Various Options Available 



Hand CarE/Rights Massage|

Foot Masssage/Foot Soaks/Skin Strengthening Technique Used Worldwide. Water-Themed Healing Practices
Spiritual Purificational Waterspaces Water-Side Encounters  
Internal Organelle Repair Methods Through Subsequent Processes
Skin Conditioning Strategies. Nature-Influenced Wellness Programs




References Added Texts







Note adjustments needed. Please let know. Thanks. Sources cited mentioned as follows:

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The purpose of fomentation is to induce sweating, which helps to eliminate toxins and promote detoxification.
What is the purpose of the "fomentation" process in Panchakarma treatment?
The ingredients are chosen according to the patient's constitution and health status, and are designed to nourish and rejuvenate the skin.
What is the significance of the ingredients used in the Navara Kizhi treatment at Soukya?
The ingredients are chosen according to the patient's dosha imbalance, and are designed to detoxify and nourish the body.
What is the significance of the ingredients used in the Kumarakom's body wrap treatment?
The oil is used to stimulate circulation, relieve tension, and nourish the body.
What is the purpose of the oil used in the Navara Kizhi treatment?
The ingredients are chosen according to the patient's constitution and health status, and are designed to detoxify and rejuvenate the skin.
What is the significance of the ingredients used in the Kizhi therapy?