P r e s e r v i n gThe Canning and Fr eezing
Guide for All Seasons
P A T CROCKER
D e d i c a t i o n
IN MEMOR Y OF DARLA MARIE GRAHAM (DUNN) 1953–2010E p i g r a p h
“W inter is an etching, spring a watercolor ,
summer an oil painting and autumn
a mosaic of them all.”
ST ANLEY HOROWITZT o the true heroes of the food system, the people who grow the produce, nurture the livestock, feed
and milk the goats, and make the cheese—the people who carry around the very earth at the tips of
their fingers.Contents
Dedication
Epigraph
Introduction
About the Photographs
Preserving Basics
Spring
Apricots
Raspberries
Rhubarb
Strawberries
Artichokes
Asparagus
Spring Herbs
Summer
Blackberries
Blueberries
Cherries
Currants
Gooseberries
Melons
Nectarines
Peaches
Plums
Beans
Carrots
PicklesCucumbers
Eggplant
Fennel
Garlic Scapes
Kohlrabi
Peas
Sweet Husk T omatoes
T omatoes
T urnips
Zucchini
Summer Herbs
Fall
Apples
Cranberries
Pears
Persimmons
Beets
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Corn
Garlic
Onions
Parsnips
Peppers
Pumpkin
Squash
Fall HerbsW inter
Citrus Fruits
Grapefruit
Lemons
Oranges
Exotics/T ropical Fruits
Mangoes
Pineapples
Pomegranates
Dried Fruits
Dried Apricots
Dried and Fresh Figs
W inter Pears
Mushrooms
W inter Herbs
Sources/Resources
Bibliography
Glossary
Index
Acknowledgements
About the Author
Copyright
About the PublisherI n t r o d u c t i o n
THE “EA T LOCAL, BUY SEASONAL”  f oo d movement is changing the
way we think and act—taking us right back to how our forebe ars thought
and acte d. If locally raised and produced food is the “new or g anic,” then
preserving the harvest is the “new food technique.”
But while we m ay be returning to some of the old ways, there are a few
significant dif ferences between our great-grandparents’ need to survive and
our desi re to eat well and be part of a slow food revolution. First, our
ancestors in this harsh land tilled the soil themselves, whereas we have
access to local p roduce from a w ide array of venues, including community
gardens, CSA co-operatives, urban, country and farm markets, greengrocers
and supermarkets. Secondly , the preserving pioneers were content to put beans on the table in
January . For us, perhaps that jar of or ganic green and wax beans  we pickled
in Augu st will be the star of a winter Niçoise Salad  with grilled whitefish or
perch. Preserving has moved beyond survival. Our jars of brilliant
Pomegranate Pepper Jelly  and Peaches and Cream Relish  are rem inders th at
we c an t ake bac k an important p art of the food chain and dine a s though we
were at a fine restaurant. Why another book on pr eserving? Because along with the why and the how to make the most of local bounty ,
today’ s y oung homemakers, parents, working mothers, single co oks or first-
time co oks want to be creativ e when using those precious jewels that
shimmer so brightly on pantry shelves. They want to eat well every day , and
they want to us e their own pr eserves rather than contribute to the food
factory conglomerates. Pr eserving  is dif ferent from almost all other bookson pres erving because it of fers stunningly easy recipes using the
exceptional preserves found in these pages. It is comforting to know that a p antry full of flavourful food sits ready to be
used. W ith the twist of a lid and the recipes in this book, you can serve
restaurant-style dishes with home-style quality and economy . Pr eserving  i s a pra ctical book with simple concepts. It follows the season s
and the diverse foods they bring to our market basket and kitchen pantry . And it of fers great ideas for what to do with the homemade sauces,
chutneys, pickle s, jams and jelli es. This book is the key to the modern-day
preserving puzz le. Our time sp ent preserving is an enjoyable part of our
busy life—a relaxing end in and of itself—but Pr eserving  also saves us time
by prov iding q uick, homema de everyday recipes for using up our
homemade bounty . Why bother with seasonal foods? Eating s easonally—that is, buyi ng and cooking food at the peak of ripeness
grown close to where you live—ensures that we pay attention to the natural
rhythms of the e arth. It forces us out into the countryside or th e garden or
the wee kly market to see, literally , “what’ s up”—what plant h as poked a
pale green blade of life through the soil toward our grateful plate. Local, seasonal foods tend to be more economical because there is a glut of
the sam e plant at the same time. They taste better , store longer and may
even be  healthier because they have not travelled an average 2,400
kilometres to get to your kitch en. Besides being economical, local and
seasonal food habits are healthy for individuals, communities an d the global
environment. Why all the fuss about local food? Good fa rmers know their business. They grow varieties of fruits and
vegetables for the right reasons—nutrition and taste and cooking properties
—not because they fit a mechan ical picker or transport well. Th eir varieties
are naturally suited to the soil and weather conditions of their area. They
might b e preserving heritage varieties; they might even be followingor ganic principles; and they know the food they produce, from seed to table. Moreover , they are certainly in touch with their customers and listen to their
concerns. W e all benefit when good farmers can stay in business. Of cours e, there are other , meas urable reasons for buying locally produced
food. Th ere are documented facts about the number of kilometres produce
travels, its ripeness, the methods employed to keep it “edible,” barrels of
fossil fuels used, wasteful packaging, factory farming, irradiation, genetic
engineering, food safety , pesticides, animal welfare and the accumulated
ef fect th ese factors are having on  the health of both the environment and the
individuals consuming factory food. But for me, it is simple: get to know the guy who raises the turnips and you
will eat better and probably be healthier . An apple is an apple, right? In a wor d: no. Y ou don’ t have to know the genealogy of plants to eat well,
but you do need  to know that every fruit and every vegetable yo u eat is one
of perhaps dozens, hundreds or even thousands of varieties that we have to
choose from. For example, some estimates put the number of apple varieties
worldwide at a whopping 7,500; there is a unique variety of Greek fava
bean tha t clings to life nowhere else in the world but on the island of
Santorini; and Prince Louis Albe rt de Broglie grows more than 600 kinds of
heritage tomatoes at his château in the Loire V alley . W e definitely need to
know that there is more out there than Granny Smith and Delicious. So why is our choice in apples  limited to four or five varieties? Factory
farms, distributo rs and lar ge chain supermarkets are only interested in
narrowing the choice to what is easy: easy to grow , harves t, transport,
purchase, display and sell. Their concerns run counter to our concerns. By
becoming more aware of the pla nts we might enjoy , we can start asking for
a wider variety of plant food and, perhaps more importantly , we will
become engage d in the issues surrounding the preservation of diversity
along with heritage varieties.In my view , genetically altered seeds or copyrighted seeds or plants bred to
produce sterile seeds are not in our best interest—in fact, they only reward
the chemical companies that invent them. There is  one more reason to search out local, seasonal varieties: it forces us
to exper iment w ith plants and v arieties we may not have taste d. The first
time I bit into a wedge of green Zebra tomato, I was instantly  transported
back 40 years to  the front porch  of my parents’ home on a sweltering late-
September even ing. The true tomato essence of that one bite communicated
the s mell of slig htly burnt toast spread with old nippy cheddar c heese (from
a fo il-lined wooden box, not a plastic tub), the sound of a W orld Series
game on  the radio and the aromatic flavour of my father ’ s  purple-red
beefsteak, carved into thick slabs and sprinkled with salt and pepper . Up
until tha t mome nt, I had for gott en the fragrance and taste of real tomatoes
and the sound of baseball on a transistor radio. —Pat Cr ockerA b o u t  t h e  P h o t o g r a p h s
Like the recipes in this book, all  of the food photographs are of real food in
real reci pes. They were shot in  my kitchen either prior to, during or just
after a recipe was tested. If a spoon is askew , it is because I dropped it to
grab the camera. If the raspberry curd in the tiramisù is starting to ooze out
of the layers, it is because I didn’ t thicken it and pipe it into the layers using
a pastry bag in o rder to get a perfectly straight line. Y ou would n’ t resort to
the things that food stylists do in order to capture the one perfect slice,
scoop o r slab, so I have not employed artificial styling techni ques in the
photographs on these pages. Instead, what I hope has been transferred
through both the recipes and their photographs is a love for the integrity of
the food and a desire to preserve its essence.P r e s e r v i n g  B a s i c s
FOOD SPOILS BECAUSE OF BACTERIA,  yeasts or moulds in the soil,
in the food, in the air or on kitchen tools and equipment surfaces. This is a
natural p rocess t hat happens even if fresh fruit and vegetables are stored in
the refrigerator . The goal of preserving is to control moisture, acid, nutrients
and war m temperatures so that deteriorating agents are deprived of what
they need to work their destruction. Preserving methods such as salting or immersing in vinegar or heavy sugar
syrups have been used for centuries, but the canning process was
discovered as a result of the N apoleonic W ars in the early 1 9th century . Canning does two things: it sterilizes both the container and the food by
using he at, and it hermetically s eals the container so that micro-or ganisms
do not contaminate the food after it has been sterilized. Essential:  I t is im portant to wash produce  (even or ganic produce) because
that is the first step in reducing bacteria, yeasts and moulds, as well as in
keeping food fresh. W ashing removes contaminants, including dust, soil,
lar ge numbers of micro-or ganisms and or ganic matter , and it is a critical
first step in the sterilization process. Pr eserving the Harvest
Produce does not improve wit h preserving, so use only fres h, just-ripe,
blemish-free fruit and vegetables. I try to clear my kitchen and my work
schedule before going to marke t so that I have the rest of the day (perhaps
even the  next day as well) to enjoy the preserving ritual that comes with
seasonal produce. Essential:  H arvest  or purchase fruit and vegetables at the peak of ripenes s,
and eat or preserve immediately or , at the most, within one or two days.If yo u c an’ t pre serve immediate ly , chill produce right away an d keep it in
the refri gerator at 32°F (0°C). B ring a cooler or insulated bags and a block
of ice for transp orting ingredien ts home from the market or pick-your -own
farm. Al l produce is heat sensitive, but berries, asparagus, green s and other
tender fruit and vegetables are particularly vulnerable. Fruit and vegetables (zucchini in particular) all produce a glut—they ripen
all at once—and  flood the gard en and markets, begging to be  dealt with
immediately . Kn owing what is “in season” each month is the k ey to being
able to drop everything in order to preserve at the peak of harvest. Acidity of Foods
Fruit and  vegetables are considered to be either high or low in acid, and it is
the a cid content that determines  the method used to process them for long-
term storage. High-acid foods  can be safely heat processed in boiling wate r . High-acid
foods ar e foods with a pH of 4.6  or lower . Most fruits, jams, jellies and fruit
spreads are high-acid. Some f ruits, such as figs, and some vegetables,
notably tomatoe s, are not quite  acid, but when vinegar or lemon juice is
added, they may be safely processed in a boiling water canner for a
specified length of time. Low-acid foods must be heat processed in a pressure canner because the
bacteria that thrive on them are resistant to the temperature of boiling water
processing (212 °F/100°C). V eg etables, meats, poultry and seafood soups,
stews, sauces, dips and vegetable spreads, or any foods with a pH higher
than 4.6 are low-acid foods. Pectin
All land  plants contain pectin in their cell walls. Pectin is m ade up of a
complex set of polysaccharides (carbohydrate) essential to binding cells
together . Due to the gel-like nature of some forms of pectin, they are
considered to be a soluble fibre that has been shown to re duce blood
cholesterol levels in humans.Apples and crabapples, quinces , plums, currants, gooseberries, cranberries,
oranges and other citrus fruits (r ind and pips) contain high levels  of the type
of pectin  perfec t for jelly makin g. Soft fruits, like cherries, raspberries and
strawberries, have relatively low pectin levels. Pectin in  the high-yielding plant s is the substance that makes preserves jell,
or firm up. In the past, the fir st step in making a fruit preserve was to
extract t he pecti n from one or a combination of the high-pectin  fruits. This
extraction process involved boiling high-pectin fruits to a mash and then
straining the juice in a couple o f stages. Pectin in the juice was then added
to low-p ectin fruit like strawberries to make jam, jelly , spreads and other
fruit preserves. Commercially made pectin is available in powder and liquid for m, and now
“low sug ar” pectin is sold, which allows for a reduced amount of sugar to
be u sed in jams and other traditionally sweet preserves. Made from apples
or citrus fruits, commercial pectin (there are several brands available) is
similar to homemade pectin, except that it always works if package
directions are followed; homemade pectin requires guesswork a nd may not
always produce a reliable result. See “ Homemade Pectin ”. T esting for the Jelly Stage
Y ou only  need to test for the jell y stage when you are not using commercial
pectin. W hen commercial pectin  is used following the package directions or
the recipes in this book, the mixture will always set, or jell. Some of the
recipes i n this book do not use commercial pectin, but rely on the natural
pectin in the fruit. So it’ s important to know how to test for the jelly stage. When a mixture  of fruit or fruit juice, sugar and acid (usually in  the form of
lemon ju ice) is boiled rapidly , or “hard” boiled, eventually it will reach the
“jelly st age.” D epending on the natural pectin in the fruit, this could take
anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours. T esting is important to see if the
mixture has reached the jelly st age, so the highly concentrated fruit-sugar
mixture does not go past it and on to the soft or even hard candy stage. Anyone who has ever for gotten a pan of strawberry jam on the  burner andcome back to find soft strawber ry tof fee can attest to the importance of this
test. There are three ways to test for the jelly stage. Thr ee W ays to T est for the Jelly Stage
1. The Thermo meter T est:  The jelling point for jelly is 220°F (104°C). Using a  candy thermometer is the most accurate way to measure the
temperature of a preserve. Once the mixture has reached 220°F (104°C),
remove it from t he heat to keep it from progressing to the soft and hard ball
candy stages. 2. T he S heet T e st:  U sing a cold m etal spoon, scoop out some boiling jelly . Before t he mixt ure has reached the jelly stage, it will drip of f the spoon in
two separate drops. When the mixture comes of f the spoon in  a sheet or
when tw o drops  come together before dripping of f the spoon,  the jelly is
done. 3. The Plate T est  (below) : Drop a tablespoon (15 mL) of the mixture onto a
cold plate and freeze for 5 minutes. Remove the plate from the freezer . The
mixture is done if it wrinkles when pushed with a fork.Essential:  Remove the kettle from the heat while you are doing sheet or
plate tests, because if heated past the jelly stage, the mixture will go to the
soft ball candy stage. Home Canning Equipment and Methods
There m ay be some lingering habits from the past that are co nfusing the
whole issue of sterilization and food safety for you. Y ears ago it was
thought that high concentrations of sugar , salt and vinegar wer e enough to
preserve high-acid foods (without processing after the food was canned) as
long as they were packed into s terilized jars and sealed properly . That was
called th e Open  Kettle Method of canning, and you may still find recipes
for jams  made with high-acid fruits that use it. I must say that, for the most
part, the  technique worked, and I used it myself. But I wouldn’ t want to be
the individual who, in February , discovered her favourite strawberry jam
warming itself in the cold cella r with little green angora-like sweaters—or
worse, the person who poisoned someone with home preserves! The Ope n Kettle Method relies on four things for a safe prod uct. First, it
can only be use d with high-acid foods (fruit). Second, it hard boils the
mixture, meaning the fruit and s ugar mixture is brought to a rolling boil that
cannot b e stirred  down, and it is held there for 20 minutes or lo nger . Third,
the jars and lids must be able to seal hermetically—there can be no nicks in
the jar rims, and you must use new lids every time—or you m ust seal the
top of the food with a thin laye r of food-grade wax. Last (and this is themost dif ficult to achieve), the jars, lids, kitchen utensils and anything else
that will come into contact with the preserve must be sterile. T oday , we want quick results and have come to rely on commercial pectin
to th icken our fr uit condiments,  sometimes even if they are already high in
natural fruit pectin. This is convenient, but in doing so, we eliminate the
need for  the hard boil, which kills spore-forming bacteria. Be rnardin, the
preserving experts, recommend that the only way to ensure com plete safety
of ca nned foods is to use a boiling water bath or pressure-canning technique
in clean, hot pre serving jars that are capped with new flat tops and screw
bands. When food is processed for the specified length of time, the food, as
well as the jar  and lid, are sterilized, so unlike with the O pen Kettle
Method, the jars only need to be hot, not sterilized, before packing them
with food. Essential:  A lways process canned food using either the Boiling W ate r
Method or the Pressure Canner Method. When I first started this book,  I was not clear about using t he oven for
heating preserving jars. I had never used that method, but I knew people
did. Aga in, I went to the experts, the people who manufacture  preserving
jars. The ir answer: Do not heat canning jars in the oven beca use hot and
cold spots can occur , causing the jars to explode when filled with boiling
food. Equipment
If yo u a re only preserving fruit and making jams, jellies and fr uit spreads,
some small tools, a jam kettle and a lar ge pot will be all you need. If you
plan to include vegetables (other than pickles, which can be processed using
the Boiling W ater Canner Method), you will need a pressure canner . Jars and Lids
I hav e h eard of people using all sorts of recycled jars and lids (even antique,
glass-top types) to preserve, and some say they have never had a  problem. Irecommend that  only Mason jars be trusted with your precious  condiment
gems, because these jars are s pecifically designed to withsta nd the high
temperatures of heat processing, as well as the subsequent cooling. Essential:  For  preserving, never use recycled jars that previously hel d
commercial food products. The lids will not seal properly , and the jars may
not hold up to water boiling and subsequent cooling. Choose the size of jar according to the recipe and how you will use it later in recipes. Y ou can recycle
Mason jars (if they have no nicks or cracks) and the screw band part of the lids, but use new flat tops
each time you preserve. Basic jar sizes shown here are (clockwise from top): quart (4 cups/1 L), 1
cup (250 mL), pint (2 cups/500 mL).Mason jars are sealed with tw o-piece lids—flat tops and screw bands. Always use new flat tops because, once sealed, they must be pried of f,
leaving the rims raised (sometimes only slightly) enough that a perfect seal
will not be possi ble next time. T he gummy ring around the inside of the flat
top allows for th e airtight seal. T he ring is softened when the lids are heated
(see step 2 in the Boiling W ater Method, Boiling W ater Method, Step by
Step ). The screw band holds the flat top in place while the food inside the
jar is heating. Steam from the hot food escapes, causing a vacuum inside the
jar that pulls the flat top down  and creates a hermetic seal. Screw bands
must only be tightened firmly by hand (see step 5 in the Boiling W ater
Method, Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ) in order to allo w the steam to
escape. Later , once a seal is obtained (see step 8 in the Boiling W ater
Method ), th e ba nds can  be removed, cl eaned and stored for the next batch
of preserves. Small T ools
I find that using tools designed for a specific task makes the job  easier . My
canning equipment includes a thermometer , magnetic lid lifter , non-metallic
air releaser and headspace measure, stainless steel wide-mouth funnel and
expandable jar lifter . Kettles
Pr eserving Pans
Although any lar ge, deep pot or saucepan can be used to boil fru it and sugar
for jams, the hea vier the pan, the  less the risk of scorching, because the heat
will be evenly d istributed across  the base. Be sure to use a pot d eep enough
to allow for the mixture to bubble up, which can happen rather q uickly once
the sugar melts into the juice. My favo urite preserving pan is a stainless steel Maslin pan. Conical in
shape, w ith a narrow , heavy base that fits modern burners, the pan flares
slightly from bottom to top, w hich allows for maximum evaporation of
liquid. V arious brands have capacities from 6 to 12 quarts (6 to 12 L). A
very long wooden spoon is essential for stirring the mixture as it boils.This Maslin pan is an excellent choice for boiling. Boiling W ater Canner
Foods th at are high in acid—most fruit and some vegetables with vinegar
and lemon juice added—can be processed using a boiling wat er canner . I
use this lar ge pot measuring 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter an d 10 inches
(25cm) h igh as my boiling water  canner . It’ s big enough to hold five 1-quart
(1 L) jars and deep enough to allow for an inch (2.5 cm) of water to safely
boil above the ja rs. Don’ t find out the hard way—with a scald or  burn—that
your pot or saucepan isn’ t deep enough to allow for 1 inch (2.5 cm) of
rapidly b oiling w ater above the tops of the jars. There must be a minimum
of 3  inch es (8 cm) of space in the pot above the jars. A lid helps bring the
water to a boil faster . The rack keeps the jars from coming  into direct
contact with the heat at the bott om of the pan and allows the boiling water
to heat the entire outside of the jars. Pr essur e Canner
Using a pressure canner is essential for low-acid foods because the bacteria
that thriv e on these foods can on ly be destroyed at temperatures higher than
that of boiling water . A wide variety of pressure canners ar e available. Pressure canners range from 6-quart (6 L) to 24-quart (24 L) capacity . Some
are electric, while others are heated on the top of the stove.Methods
P r e p a r i n g  a n d  C a n n i n g  F r u i t
Fruit should be preserved at the peak of ripeness. If you must store fruit,
keep it unwashe d for a day and wash just before preserving. Directions for
preparing the various fruits are included in the preparation notes for each. What follows are some general comments about preparing fruit for canning. 1. W ash
Rinse small fruit under running water , or wash in several changes of water , lifting the fruit out of the
water so that the dirt does not settle back on it. Use a sieve and gentle water spray for berries. Do not let them soak in water .2. Keep Light Flesh fr om Br owning
Many fruits and some vegetables with light-coloured flesh will darken rapidly after peeling exposes
them to oxygen in the air . Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) prevents oxidative browning in most fruits. Use
1 tsp (5 mL) crystalline ascorbic acid or six 500 mg vitamin C tablets or 1/3 cup (75 mL) bottled
lemon juice per 1 gallon (4 L) of cool water . 3. Make a Syrup or Use Juice or W ater
Sugar helps canned fruit hold its shape, colour and flavour . For that reason, sugar syrups are often
used for canning fruit . Use 1 to 1–1/2 cup s (250 to 375 mL) syrup per quart (1 L) to cover the fruit. Syrups ran ge from very light to very heavy . For the canned fruit recipes in this boo k, light syrup is
included w ith canning  directions, but the following chart gives sugar and liquid proportions for other
types of syrups.T O MAKE SYRUP:  In a heavy-bott omed saucepan,  combine granulated sugar
with water; stir until dissolved. Bring to a gentle boil over high heat. Reduce heat and keep hot. AL TERNA TIVES T O SUGAR SYRUP:  Un sweetened apple juice, wh ite grape
juice, pineapple  juice or a combination of the three juices can be used in
place of a sugar syrup. W ater can be used but tends to dilute the taste of the
fruit. Note:  Commercial non-sugar sweeteners are not recommended for canning
since th ey tend to lose their sweetening ef fect upon heating , and some
become bitter . 4. Pack Fruit into Jars
Fruit can be packed raw into jars or blanched and packed hot. I prefer to pack firm fruit hot because it
is less likely to float in the syrup, but raw-packing tender fruit helps it keep some texture.Raw Pack:  Spoon cold, raw fruit into clean, hot jars, shaking the jars to pack tightly (unless
otherwise directed). A pair of long food tweezers or a chop-stick helps to position the pieces. Cover with boiling hot syrup, juice or water , leaving the correct amount of headspace. Run a thin
non-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to release air and recheck the headspace, adding
more hot syrup if necessary .Hot Pack:  Heat fruit in syrup. Pack hot fruit and syrup loosely into clean, hot jars, leaving the
correct headspace. Run a thin non-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar . Recheck the
headspace, adding more hot syrup if necessary . 5. Cap with Lids and Bands
W ipe the jar rims and  threads with a clean damp cloth or towel to remove any syrup or fruit bits that
might prev ent a proper seal (above left). Centre a flat lid on each jar . Screw on th e metal band as
firmly as you can (above right).6. Pr ocess
Process according to times given for each fruit, using the Boiling W ater Method  ( Boiling W ater
Method, Step by Step ). Essential:  I f a recipe recommends only one method , follow those directions and do not attempt to
use another pack method. S t o r i n g  C a n n e d  F o o d s
Storing Opened Canned Foods
Plan to use yo ur homemade preserves within a year , or so oner . Once
opened, pay attention to the jars in your refrigerator . Some things keep
longer than others once the se al has been broken. Generally , high-acid
fruits, ja ms, jelli es, pickles and f ruit spreads will keep in the refrigerator for
up to a month after opening. Low-acid foods, such as vegetables, meats,
soups, s tews and dips, must be kept in the refrigerator and us ed within a
week after opening.Keep preserves in a cool, dark place. This pine jam cupboard was built for storing preserves in a cool
basement. Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step
Use for processing high-acid fruit, jam, jelly , high-acid pre serves, and
tomatoes or pickles with vinegar or lemon juice added.1. W ash jars and lids in hot soapy water or dishwasher . Arrange jars on a rack in the boiling water
canner . Fill the jars and canner with hot water to at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the tops of the jars. Heat the water to just under a boil and keep it lightly simmering until ready to fill with hot preserve. 2. Set screw bands aside. Heat flat tops in simmering (not boiling) water (180°F/82°C). Also heat
lifters, funnels, ladles and tongs. Keep tops hot until ready to use.3. Prepare preserve as per recipe. Left: Ladle hot food into a hot jar , leaving a headspace as follows:
1/4 inch (5 mm) for jams and jellies; 1/2 inch (1 cm) or 1 inch (2.5 cm) for all other recipes,
including fruit, pickles, tomatoes and other high-acid condiments. Right: Be accurate with measuring
headspace because it is necessary for achieving a good seal. 4. Remove air bubbles by sliding a flat, non-metallic utensil around the inside of the filled jar . Adjust
headspace if necessary . W ipe jar rim clean using a clean damp cloth. Essential:  Fill and cap one jar at a time.5. Centre the flat disc of the lid on the jar . Apply the screw band, using only hand strength to tighten
just until resistance is met. 6. Place filled jar back in canner with hot water and fill remaining jars following steps 3 to 5. When
all the jars are filled, add more hot water if necessary to keep the water level 1 inch (2.5 cm) above
jar tops. Cover the canner and bring water to a full rolling boil over high heat. Process the filled jars
by boiling for the time specified in the recipe.7. After boiling is done, turn of f heat and remove canner lid. Let canner sit for about 5 minutes or
until water becomes still. Using a jar lifter , lift jars straight out of canner onto a clean towel or
cooling rack. Let jars cool upright, undisturbed for 24 hours. Do not tighten screw bands. 8. Check seals: jars are sealed safely if the lid tops curve downward and do not move when pressed
with a fingertip. Y ou can remove screw bands and clean and store them for next use or leave them on
the jars. W ipe jars, label and store in a cool, dark place.P r e p a r i n g  a n d  C a n n i n g  V e g e t a b l e s
( a n d  l o w - a c i d  f r u i t )
Choose firm, crisp vegetables at the peak of ripeness and try to use them the
same day . If tha t is not possible,  store for as short a time as possible—up to
three days in a cool place or slightly longer in the refrigerator . Directions
for preparing each vegetable a re found in the preparation n otes. What
follows are some general comments about preparing produce for pressure
canning. 1. W ash
Swish tender vegetables in water to which a drop of food-safe soap has been added. Scrub root
vegetables using a vegetable brush. T rim vegetables according to the individual type and the recipe.2. Keep Light Flesh fr om Br owning
Light-fleshed fruit and vegetables (like artichokes and carrots) will darken when exposed to oxygen
in the air . Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) prevents oxidative browning in most fruit and vegetables. 3. Make a Brine or use Br oth or W ater
Prepare brine according to the recipe. V inegar helps to lower the pH and adds flavour to vegetables. When vinegar or lemon juice brine is added to vegetables, the food can be processed using the
Boiling W ater Method. When canning vegetables in water or broth, they must be processed using a
pressure cooker . 4. Pack V egetables into Jars
V egetables can be packed raw into jars (Raw Pack) or preheated and packed hot (Hot Pack). Some
recipes call for a specific method; in other recipes, the decision to hot- or raw-pack is left up to you. Not only do I use the Raw Pack Method with fruit, but also with tender vegetables like asparagus.Raw Pack:  Arrange cold, raw vegetables in clean, hot jars, shaking the jar to pack tightly . Cover
with boiling brine, water or juice, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of headspace. Run a thin non-metallic
utensil around the inside of the jar to release air and recheck the headspace, adding more hot liquid if
necessary . Hot Pack:  Precook vegetables in brine, juice or water . Pack hot vegetables and brine loosely into
clean, hot jars, leaving 1 inch (2.5 cm) of headspace. Run a thin non-metallic utensil around the
inside of the jar to release air and recheck the headspace, adding more hot liquid if necessary . 5. Cap with Lids and Bands
W ipe the jar rims and threads with a clean damp cloth or towel to remove any syrup or bits that might
prevent a proper seal. Centre a flat lid on each jar . Screw on the metal band as firmly as you can. 6. Pr ocess
Process in a pressure canner  according to directions in given recipe.Pr essur e Canner Method, Step by Step
Use for processing low-acid vegetables, fruits, meats, poultry and seafood,
as well as soups, stews, sauces, dips and vegetable spreads. 1. W ash jars and lids in hot soapy water or dishwasher . Arrange jars on a rack in the pressure canner . Add 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) water and heat to a simmer over medium-high heat.2. Set screw bands aside. Heat flat lid tops in simmering (not boiling) water (180°F/82°C). Also heat
lifters, funnels, ladles and tongs. Keep tops hot until ready to use. 3. Prepare and fill jars according to recipe. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) headspace. Using a flat, non-
metallic utensil, remove air bubbles by sliding utensil around the inside of the filled jar . Adjust
headspace if necessary . W ipe jar rim clean using a clean, damp cloth. 4. Centre a flat lid on top of each jar . Apply the screw band, using only hand strength to tighten until
resistance is met. 5. Place filled jars back in pressure canner and adjust water level as directed by canner manufacturer . Lock canner lid in place and turn heat to high. Follow manufacturer ’ s directions to vent canner
(allow steam to escape) for the specified time (usually 10 to 15 minutes of strong steam venting
through vent port or petcock). 6. If using a weighted gauge, place the correct weight over the vent port. Follow recipe chart or
manufacturer ’ s chart and count processing time from the time the pressure for your elevation reaches
the required level. 7. When processing time is complete, turn of f the heat. Let canner stand undisturbed until pressure
drops to zero. Allow 2 minutes longer before removing the canner lid (tilt lid away to avoid escaping
steam). 8. Using a jar lifter , lift jars straight out of canner . Cool jars upright and undisturbed for 24 hours. Do
not tighten screw bands. 9. Check seals: jars are sealed safely if the lids curve downward and do not move when pressed with
fingertips. Y ou can remove the screw bands, cleaning and storing them for the next use, or leavethem on the jars. W ipe jars, label and store in a cool, dark place. F r e e z i n g
Freezing fruit and vegetables in order to preserve them is convenient, easy ,
fast and  general ly suitable. Most frozen foods remain true to their original
form with minimal loss of colour and flavour . Perhaps most importantly ,
nutrient loss is minimal. Having a separate upright or chest freezer is ideal
for accommodating lar ge quantities of produce, along with extra pies and
baked goods, leftovers, supermarket meats purchased on special, and
holiday cooking. Essential:  A free zer mus t maintain a minimum constant 0°F or -18°C . Look for a freezer that is adjustable to -20°F (-28.8°C) so th at you can
quick-freeze an initial batch to prevent lar ge ice crystals from  forming in
the food. Chest versus upright Fr eezers
Chest fr eezers c ome in a wide variety of sizes, from 5 to 25 cubic feet (0.14
to 0. 70 cubic me tres) or more. They keep the cold in when the door is open
because the cold air settles downward. Chest freezers are hard to or ganize,
and it is hard to  locate small packages in them. Furthermore, t hey take up
more floor space. (However , I have a narrow model that I use as an extra
counter in my pantry , so it is perfect for my needs.) Upright freezers  generally provide 16 to 21 cubic feet (0.45 to  0.59 cubic
metres) of space, and because much of the food is at eye level, packages are
easier to  or ganiz e and find. Cold spills out every time the door is opened, so
the u nit requires more ener gy , m aking upright freezers slightly more costly
to run. Essential:  S trive to keep the freezer at no less than three-quarters full at all
times. That way it will operate ef ficiently , using less power than when fullystocked. Fill it with bags of ice in summer months when it may not be full. Packaging for the Fr eezer
A wide array of containers—pliable and rigid plastic, heavily waxed
cardboard, or glass containers—are available for freezing preserves safely ,
but the key to re taining the highest quality in your foods is a material that
provides a moisture-vapour bar rier . That means that drying frig id air must
be sealed out and the liquids in your preserves sealed in. Fr eezing Essentials
 If using bags, be sure to purchase heavy-duty plastic bags specifically
labelled for use in the freezer . Make sure lids fit securely for an airtight seal. Use only Mason jars, leaving the headspace specified in the recipe, and
allow the food to cool completely before freezing. Rigid containers with straight sides and stackable tops and bottoms save
freezer space. Pack food in 1-cup (250 mL), 2-cup (500 mL) or 4-cup (1 L) portions,
depending on recipe requirements or how you will use the preserves. Label packages with the food name or recipe title, as well as the date, and
keep rotating older packages to the front/top for use before more recent
additions. Although frozen fruit and vegetables can last longer , it is wise to use
frozen fruit within eight months of freezing, and frozen vegetables and
herbs within six months.H o m e m a d e  P e c t i n
Extracting Pectin fr om Apples
Any v ariety of tart cooking apple, crabapple, quince, plum, gooseberry or citrus fruit
may b e boiled down to make a mash in the first step of pectin making. T o boil apples :
W ash and chop fine, i ncluding cores, pips and stems. W eigh and add 2 cups (500 mL)
water and 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice for e very 1 lb (500 g) of apples. Cover and boi l
rapidly for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally . The apple mash is st rained in two stages . The first press is through a rough cone
strainer wi th a cone-shaped wooden pusher . Specialty stores may still carry the cone
strainer and its stand. Y ou might also see them in thrift stores and at flea markets
from time to time. In the  seco nd press, the mash collected fr om the first strain is poured into the now
cheesecloth-lined cone strainer , or a lar g e fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, and
allowed to  drip overnight without squeezing or pressing. Use the strained liquid in
jams and other preserves. S p r i n g
“Spring makes its own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems
to be only one of the instruments, not the composer .”
—GEOFFREY B. CHARLESWOR THA p r i c o t s
ITS BOT ANICAL NAME,  Prunus armeniaca,  notwithstanding, the
apricot is actually not native to Armenia but originated in Manchuria and
northern China. The name is derived from the Latin praecocia,  meaning
“precious” or “precocious.” Eith er English word is very apt for this early-
blooming, early-ripening gem. Although the apricot tre e tolerates
temperatures as cold as –22°F (–30°C) or lower , its early flowers are killed
with spr ing fros ts such as those  typical in the northern United  States and
southern Canada . That means that the harvest is no sure thing f rom year to
year . Most North American apricots are grown in British Columbia,
California, W ash ington and Utah. Since the apricot’ s peak season is mid-
May thr ough Ju ne, I have placed it in the Spring Recipes chapter , but in
your area, local apricots may not appear until early summer . Essential:  T he leaves and seeds contain hy drogen cyanide, a poison. This is
the same  toxin that gives almon ds their characteristic flavour . Even though
it is usually present in too small a quantity to do any harm, and in very
small amounts has been shown to stimulate respiration and improve
digestion, like any other bitter seed, apricot seeds (and leaves) should not be
eaten. Good Pr eserving V arieties
Apricots can be small, medium, lar ge, extra lar ge, jumbo or extra jumbo in
size, depending on the variety and growing conditions. Aprium,  a
trademarked hybrid fruit, is a three-quarter apricot/one-quarter plum cross. Honey R ich, Fl avor Delight  and T asty Rich  are popular Aprium varieties. If yo u find Apriums at your local market, use them as you wou ld an extra-
sweet apricot. Some other apricot hybrids, such as Peachcotums  (a peach,apricot and plum hybrid), Plumcots  and Cherrycots,  have been adapted for
cooler regions. Blenheim (Royal):  Thick yellow-orange flesh; very juicy fruit with sweet-
tangy and aromatic flavour . This classic medium-to-lar ge California apricot
is a pop ular eat-out-of-hand variety that also holds its texture  and shape
well for canning. A vailable earl y to mid-season. Earligold:  Golden yellow
with a rich and juicy flesh, th is medium-size fruit is available early for
canning. Gold Kist:  W ell-balanced sweet-tart flavour and a red-blushed yellow skin. Medium to lar ge fruit. Use fo r canning, freezing, drying and for eating
fresh. E arly har vest. Moongold:  P lum-s ize apri cot with golden skin and
flesh; sweet, tangy flavour . Use fresh, canned or for jam. Early to mid-
season harvest. Moorpark:  Lar ge, sweet, a romatic and juicy , with a full plum flavour . Use
fresh, canned or for jam. Pur chasing/Storing
• 1 lb (500 g) yields 2 to 2-1/2 cups (500 to 625 mL) peeled pitted apricot
halves. • Y ou will need about 1-1/4 lb (625 g) for each quart (1 L) jar . Buy local whenever possible b ecause apricots sold anywhere  but in the
location they were grown are picked at an underripe stage; while they will
ripen in colour , texture and ju iciness, their flavour and sweetness will
remain a t the point they were picked. Select firm golden-orange  fruits with
no touc h of green, wrinkling or bruising. Ripe apricots yield to slight
pressure. If absolutely necessary , ripen in a paper bag at room temperature,
away from sunlight; check daily . Use immediately once ripened. Good W ith
• Anise herbs such as chervil, tarragon and sweet cicely; spicy herbs like
basil, bay , thyme.• Sweet seasonings such as cinnamon, ginger , cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla,
almond. • Soft cheeses such as brie, Camembert, Boursault, feta, creamy blue. • Other fruit, such as raspberries, blueberries, peaches, nectarines, cherries,
oranges. • T oasted almonds, pecans and walnuts, raisins, white chocolate. • Chicken; mild fish, such as tilapia, haddock, halibut and flounder . • Cherry brandy , orange liqueur , anisette. Pr eparation
W ash apricots in a sink full of cool water to which a drop of foo d-safe soap
has been added. Rinse well and pat dry . Blanch apricots in boilin g water for
30 to 45 seconds. Immerse in cold water for 30 to 45 seconds. Drain and pat
dry . Slip of f the skins. Cut lengthwise in half and remove the stone. T o prevent discolouration, peeled, pitted apricot halves are immersed in water with 1 tsp (5 mL)
crystalline ascorbic acid for every 2 cups (500 mL) water . Y ou can use six 500 mg vitamin C tablets
in 1 gallon (4 L) cool water . Canning Apricots
See detailed canning information, Methods . 1. Pr epar e Equipment:  W ash and heat pint (2-cup/500 mL) or quart (1 L)
jars, and heat the lids, funnel, ladle and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step
by Step ).2. Make a Light Syrup:  In a la r ge sauc epan, combine 1 cup (250 mL)
granulated suga r with 4 cups (1 L) water; stir until dissolved. Bring to a
gentle b oil over  high heat. Mak es 4-1/2 cups (1.125 L) syrup,  enough for
three or four 1-quart (1 L) jars of apricots. Note:  Y ou  can use the same amount of apple juice or white grape juice in
place of the light syrup. 3. Pack apricots into jars either hot or raw . Make a Raw Pack:  Fill  hot jars with peeled fruit, cut side down and
packed f airly tig htly . Cover with hot syrup or juice, leaving a 1/2-inch (1
cm) headspace. Run a non-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to
allow air to esca pe. Add hot syr up, if necessary , to leave a 1/2-inch (1 cm)
headspace. W ip e sealing edge of jars with a clean, damp, lint-free cloth. Position flat lids over the tops of jars and hand-tighten screw bands. OR
Make a Hot Pack:  Add apricot halves to gently boiling syrup or juice and
boil for a minute. Fill hot jars w ith hot fruit and cooking liqui d, leaving a
1/2-inch (1 cm) headspace. Run  a non-metallic utensil around the inside of
the jar to allow air to escape. A dd more hot fruit or liquid, if necessary , to
leave a 1/2-inch  (1 cm) headspace. W ipe sealing edge of jars w ith a clean,
damp, li nt-free c loth. Position flat lids over the tops of jars and hand-tighten
screw bands. 4. Pr oce ss apricots in a canner :  Use a Boiling W ater Canner according to
the chart below .OR
Process apricots in a Pressure Canner following manufacturer ’ s directions
for steam pressure and time at your altitude. 5. Cool, Label and Stor e:  L ift jars from c anner and place on a clean towel
or rack. Do not re-tighten screw bands. Let the jars cool to room
temperature. This may take from 12 to 24 hours. Remove and store screw
bands. Check lid seals ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by  Step ). W ipe and
label sealed jars. Store in a cool, dark place. a p r i c o t  c o m p o t e
Like other spring foods—namely asparagus, wild leeks, r hubarb and
fiddleheads—fr esh apricots will not be available very long. I tend to eat a
lot o f the m once the local cr op i s available, almost to the point of becoming
temporarily tir ed  of them, know ing it will be a full year until I can indulge
again. This simple mélange of fleshy apricots and orange liqueur is a
sophisticated wa y to extend the  sweet tang and brilliant orang e colour of
fr esh apricots. MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS (1.25 L)
5 cups (1.25 L) sliced peeled apricots (about 3 lb/1.5 kg)
2 tbsp (25 mL) grated orange rind1–1/4 cups (300 mL) fr eshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 cup (50 mL) orange liqueur (Grand Marnier)
2 tbsp (25 mL) fr eshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tbsp (15 mL) crushed or gr ound coriander seeds
5 cups (1.25 L) granulated sugar
 
1. Heat six 1-cup (250 mL) jars  in boiling water , and scald the lids, lifter ,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 2. In  a Maslin p an or canning k ettle, combine apricots, orange rind, orange
juice, or ange liq ueur , lemon juice and coriander seeds. Bring to  a boil over
high heat. Stir in the sugar , 1 cup (250 mL) at a time, stirring  to dissolve
before adding the next cup. B oil, stirring frequently , until the mixture
becomes thick and coats the back of a wooden spoon, about 15 minutes. T est the gel. Setting Point
Compote has reached the setting point when a candy thermometer reaches
the jelly stage, 212°F (100°C). T esting for the Jelly Stage  for other jell tests. 3. S kim of f and discard any foam. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-i nch (5 mm)
headspace. Run a thin non-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to
allow air to escape. Add more hot compote, if necessary , to leav e a 1/4-inch
(5 m m) headspace. W ipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to th e hot water ba th, topping up with hot water if necessary . Bring to a full rolling boil and process jars for 10 minutes (). 4. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . Use: I like to decorate the jars with ribbon and give as h ostess gifts,
especially in December , when t he days are short and these brilliant gems
are so cheery . Spread on toast  or spoon on top of hot cereal, cornmeal
and baked puddings, especially rice puddings.a p r i c o t  b e e f
This dish is fas t and richly flavour ed, thanks to the tart-sw eet apricot
compote. Using a wok or cast ir on grilling pan sears the beef an d keeps the
moistur e inside,  making it a “steakhouse special.” If you star t with a hot
grill an d pay attention to tim ing, you can cook the meat to the exact
temperatur e you  desir e: 4 to 5 minutes for medium-rar e, up to 10 minutes
for well done. Serve with braised gr eens or a gr een salad and/or bistr o-style
garlic m ashed p otatoes. Pass the r emaining compote fr om the jar with the
beef. MAKES 4 SER VINGS
1/4 cup (50 mL) Apricot Compote (r ecipe apricot compote )
1 tbsp (15 mL) rice vinegar
1/2 lb (250 g) beef filet or pork loin, trimmed
sea salt and cracked pepper
2 tbsp (25 mL) olive oil
 
1. In a b owl lar g e enough to hold the beef filet, combine Apric ot Compote
and vinegar . Add beef filet to the bowl and brush with apricot mixture. Grind salt and pepper over top and let stand for 15 minutes. 2. In a wok or cast iron grilling pan, heat olive oil over high heat, to just
under the smoking point. Use more oil if necessary . Add beef and cook for
4 to 5 minutes (m edium-rare), tu rning often. Remove to a board , cover with
a lid or foil and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes before slicing. s c a r l e t  b l u s h  a p r i c o t  f r e e z e r  c o n s e r v eThe beautiful pink-to-r ed blush o n some varieties of apricot skin  is r eflected
in this easy condiment. Don’ t be tempted to add mor e raspberries—the
small amount is just enough to give a very r osy glow to the yellow-orange
apricots. No matter when I use this conserve, I am instantly r eminded of
happy warm summer sunsets, m y particular favourite sunset site being the
beach at Southampton, Ontar io, on Lake Hur on. This conserve has
everything going for it: it’ s easy , low-sugar and convenient for travelling. I
use it as an ice block in my picnic cooler , and by the time we a r e r eady to
set u p our alfr e sco lunch, it’ s r eady to spoon over pound cake, scones or
angel cake. MAKES 5 CUPS (1.25 L)
1–1/2 cups (375 mL) granulated sugar
1 pkg (1–1/2 oz/45 g) fr eezer jam pectin crystals
3–1/2 cups (875 mL) chopped peeled apricots
1/2 cup (125 mL) fr esh or fr ozen raspberries
1 tbsp (15 mL) fr eshly squeezed lemon juice
 
1. In  a bowl, com bine sugar and pectin and stir to blend well. Add apricots,
raspberries and lemon juice. Stir for 3 minutes. 2. Ladle conserve into five 1-cup (250 mL) plastic or g lass freezer
containers, leav ing 1/2-inch (1 cm) headspace. Squeeze out air and seal
tightly . L et conserve stand at ro om temperature until thickened, about 30
minutes. Label and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks o r freeze for
up to 1 year .Use: Scarlet Blush Apricot F reezer Conserve is always ready to top
pancakes, poun d cake, ice cre am, fresh fruit salads and wa f fles, or to
accompany custard or muf fins. It’ s just a great treat to have in the freezer . Fr eezing Apricots
1. Select Equipment:  Se lect suitable-size freezer c ontainers, bags or
Mason jars ( Freezing ). 2. P ack in Syru p:  I n a saucepan, c ombine 2–1/2 cups (625 mL) granulated
sugar an d 1/2 tsp (2 mL) crysta lline ascorbic acid or three 500 mg vitamin
C tablets. Stir in 4 cups (1 L) water . Bring to a gentle boil over high heat,
stirring f requently . Reduce heat and gently boil for 3 minutes. Let cool. Fill
pint (2-c up/500 mL) or quart (1  L) freezer containers with halv ed or sliced
apricots to within 3 to 4 inches (7 to 10 cm) of the top. Pour syr up over top;
use 1 cup (250 mL) syrup per qu art (1 L) of prepared fruit. Squeeze out air;
leave 1-inch (2.5 cm) headspace. Seal, label and freeze.OR
Dry Pack:  Fill pint (2-cup/500 mL) or quart (1 L) freezer containers with halved or sliced apricots to
within 3 to 4 inches (7 to 10 cm) of the top. Pour dry granulated sugar over top; use 1/2 cup (125 mL)
sugar per quart (1 L) of prepared fruit. Squ eeze out air; leave 1-inch (2.5 cm) headspace. Seal, label
and freeze.R a s p b e r r i e s
THE PE RENNIAL BUSH-TYPE RASPBERR Y  plant produces fruit on
woody stems or canes. Like blac kberries, raspberries are an aggregate fruit:
each raspberry is actually a cluster of fruit with many bead -like fruits,
called druplets, gathered around  a core or receptacle. Each druplet contains
one seed, and every raspberry has from 100 to 120 seeds. It is these tiny
seeds th at aggravate some people, so many recipes call for raspberry
mixtures to be strained in order to remove them. Good Pr eserving V arieties
American Red Raspberry (Rubus strigosus)  plan ts c an be divided into two
categories: everb earing, which produce fruit in late spring or ea rly summer
to m idsummer and again in the  fall; and summer -bearing varieties, which
produce only one harvest in su mmer . While red raspberries are the most
common, you may find yellow/gold, purple and black raspberries at
markets in your area. There are dozens of varieties to choose from, but
generally look for a local variety with lar ge, firm fruit that is bright red or
black or purple in colour . Canby:  Lar ge red berries; a midsummer variety; originated in Oregon. Gatineau:  F rom Ontario; red berries are medium in size and arrive very
early in summer . Heritage:  Medium berries with good flavour; harvested in spring and fall. T itan:  V er y la r ge red berries; good for canning and freezing; mid- to  late-
summer harvest; originated in New Y ork. Pur chasing/Storing• Y ou will need six to eight 1/2-pint (1-cup/250 mL) baskets (about 3 lb/1.5
kg) raspberries for each 1-quart (1 L) jar . • Choose dry , ripe, plump, firm, sweet raspberries with uniform colour ,
shape and size. • Raspberries are highly perishable and should be transported in a cooler;
use immediately because they spoil easily , especially if allowed to stand
at room temperature. Good W ith
• Anise herbs such as sweet cicely , tarragon, chervil. • Sweet seasonings such as ginger , vanilla, almond. • Semi-soft cheeses such as Asadero, fontina and Monterey Jack. • Other fruit, such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, bananas, cherries, plums. • Other berries, such as blackberries, blueberries, currants, elderberries,
gooseberries, huckleberries, loganberries, mulberries, strawberries. • T oasted almonds and pecans, chocolate, lemon desserts. • Chicken; mild fish such as tilapia, orange roughy and haddock. Pr eparation
Keep perishable soft berries, such as raspberries, blueberries, blackberries
and strawberries , unwashed and refrigerated until just before using. W ash a
small am ount at a time by holding under lightly flowing cool water for a
few seconds. Canning Raspberries
See detailed canning information, Methods . 1. Pr epar e Equipment:  W ash and heat pint (2-cup/500 mL) or quart (1 L)
jars, and  scald the lids, funnel, la dle and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step
by Step ).2. Make a Light Syrup:  In a la r ge sauc epan, combine 1 cup (250 mL)
granulated suga r with 4 cups (1 L) water; stir until dissolved. Bring to a
gentle b oil over  high heat. Mak es 4-1/2 cups (1.125 L) syrup,  enough for
three or four 1-quart (1 L) jars of raspberries. Note:  Y ou  can use the same amount of apple juice or white grape juice in
place of the light syrup. 3. Pack raspberries into jars raw  (use Raw Pack Method because berries
are soft). Make a Raw Pack:  F ill jars with f ruit and shake t he jar gently
while filling to pack fairly tight ly . Cover with hot syrup or juice, leaving a
1/2-inch (1 cm) headspace. Run  a non-metallic utensil around the inside of
the jar to allow air to escape. A dd hot liquid, if necessary , to leave a 1/2-
inch (1 cm) hea dspace. W ipe sealing edge of jars with a clean, damp, lint-
free clot h. Posit ion flat lids ov er the tops of jars and hand-tighten screw
bands. 4. Pr oce ss raspberries in a can ner:  Use  a Boiling W ater Canner according
to the chart below . OR
Process raspberries in a Pressure Canner following ma nufacturer ’ s
directions for steam pressure and time at your altitude. 5. Cool, Label and Stor e:  L ift jars from c anner and place on a clean towel
or rack. Do not re-tighten screw bands. Let the jars cool to room
temperature. This may take from 12 to 24 hours. Remove and store screw
bands. Check lid seals ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by  Step ). W ipe and
label sealed jars. Store in a cool, dark place.r a s p b e r r y  c o u l i s
Chefs use fruit or vegetable coulis to give desserts and main dishes a
pr ofessional finish. This r ecipe  is r eally a raspberry sauce that can be
squeezed fr om a bottle for deco rating plates and desserts, along with the
other us es listed  below . Bay adds a spicy dimension that acts as a foil for
the s weetness of the coulis. I of ten bring this out for special birthday cake
occasions and when I just need to add a homemade touch to fr ozen yogurt
or ice cr eam. Even stor e-bought cheesecake is extra sophisticated when
served on this gor geous bright r ed sauce. MAKES 6 CUPS (1.5 L)
12 cups (3 L) fr esh or fr ozen raspberries
1 cup (250 mL) unsweetened apple juice
1 tbsp (15 mL) grated lemon rind
2 bay leaves
1–1/2 cups (375 mL) granulated sugar
3/4 cup (175 mL) corn syrup
1/2 cup (125 mL) fr eshly squeezed orange juice
 
1. Heat six 1-cup (250 mL) jars  in boiling water , and scald the lids, lifter ,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 2. In a Maslin pan or canning kettle, combine raspberries, apple juice,
lemon ri nd and bay leaves. Brin g to a gentle boil over medium heat, stirring
frequently . Crus h the berries usi ng a potato masher . Gently boil  for about 5
minutes or until berries have softened into a mush. 3. P ress mixture through a fine-mesh strainer , using a spatula to extract as
much li quid as possible. Discard seeds, rind and bay leaves. Return
raspberry juice to the pan and b ring to a boil over high heat. Gr adually add
sugar , st irring until dissolved. Continue boiling gently; gradual ly add cornsyrup and orange juice, stirrin g constantly . Bring to a full rolling boil,
stirring constantly . Boil hard for 15 minutes. 4. F ill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. Run a thin non-
metallic utensil around the insid e of the jar to allow air to escape. Add more
hot coul is, if necessary , to leave a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe rims,
top with flat lids and screw on m etal rings. Return jars to the hot water bath,
topping up with hot water if necessary . Bring to a full rolling boil and
process jars for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 5. Remove canner lid and wait 5  minutes before removing jars to a cooling
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . Use: Drizzle over lemon cakes a nd pound cakes, crêpes and pa ncakes, ice
cream a nd custa rds. Pool a few  spoonfuls of raspberry coulis o n a dessert
plate or in a bowl and pile fresh fruit, puddings or custards over top. r a s p b e r r y  t i r a m i s ù
A heavenly light dessert ( raspberry cur d ), th is half-fr ozen cake layer ed w ith
raspberry and cheese is easily made a day or two in advance. If the vanilla
cake bas e is fr ozen one or two days ahead, the cheese and raspberry layers
can be added in  stages; fr eeze after each step. By doing this, your tiramusù
will have  a polished, pr ofessional look. Bring the cake out of the  fr eezer one
hour befor e serving. Using a springform pan makes the job of r emoving the layer ed cake so
much ea sier be cause the sides of the pan unhinge and slip e asily away ,
leaving the cake on the base of the pan. MAKES 8 T O 10 SER VINGS
V ANILLA CAKE BASE
9-inch (23 cm) springform pan, lightly oiledPr eheat oven to 350°F (180°C)
2 eggs
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
1–1/4 cups (300 mL) all-purpose flour
1 tsp (5 mL) baking powder
1/2 cup (125 mL) milk
1/3 cup (75 mL) vegetable oil
1/2 tsp (2 mL) pur e vanilla extract
 
1. In a m ixing b owl, beat eggs until light in colour . Add sugar an d beat with
an electr ic mixe r until slightly th ickened, about 1 minute. Add flour , baking
powder , milk, vegetable oil and vanilla. Beat for about 1 minute or just until
the batter is smooth and creamy . Don’ t overbeat. Pour the batter into the
prepared springform pan. 2. Bake in preheated oven for 20 to 30 minutes or until the top is golden and
a toothp ick inserted into the ce ntre comes out clean. Loosen around the
edge of the cake with a thin knife and let the cake cool completely on a wire
rack. Le aving the cake on the pan base, remove the side rim; w ash rim and
set a side. Cake b ase can be wrapped and stored for up to 2 days or wrapped
tightly , labelled and frozen for up to 1 month. FILLING
Springform side rim, lightly oiled
1 lb (500 g) ricotta cheese
1/2 cup (125 mL) vanilla yogurt
1/2 cup (125 mL) mascarpone cheese
1/3 cup (75 mL) icing sugar
1 cup (250 mL) Raspberry Curd ( raspberry curd )
1 V anilla Cake Base on a springform base (r ecipe left)
1/2 cup (125 mL) fr esh or fr ozen raspberries 
1. In a food processor or blender , combine ricotta cheese, yogurt,
mascarpone cheese and icing sugar; blend until smooth. 2. Fit the prepared side rim of  the springform pan back arou nd the cake
base. Spread about two-thirds of the raspberry curd over the cake. 3. Po ur t he ricotta mixture over the raspberry curd and spread ev enly with a
spatula. Some of the cheese mixture may flow down the sides of the cake. 4. Place the cake in the freezer , being careful to keep it level, for at least 30
minutes or overnight. Spread the remaining raspberry curd over the cheese
layer an d return  to the freezer or refrigerator until ready to serve. Remove
from the freezer at least 1 hour before serving. Remove the  rim of the
springform pan and arrange raspberries around the top of the tiramisù. r a s p b e r r y  c u r d
I l ove having this buttery , rich cur d in my pantry because of it s versatility
and also because it makes a welcome gift any time of the year . It is similar
to L emon Cur d (or Lemon Butt er) but not as tart, so you can  use it with
sweeter desserts  than you would the lemon version. If you fr eeze fr esh
raspberries, you  can make Rasp berry Cur d any time of the year . It should
be used within thr ee weeks (if yo u can keep family fr om dipping  into it right
out of the jar!). Using the apples in the cur d lightens up the intense
raspberry flavour and colour , and helps to thicken the cur d.
MAKES 4 CUPS (1 L)
2–1/2 cups (625 mL) fr esh or fr ozen raspberries
(12 oz/375 g) 4 cups (1 L) chopped cooking apples (unpeeled)
grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
3/4 cup (175 mL) butter , cut into chunks1–1/2 cups (375 mL) granulated sugar
4 eggs, lightly beaten
 
1. Heat four 1-cup (250 mL) jar s in boiling water , and scald the lids, lifter ,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 2. In a s aucepan, combine raspberries, apples, lemon rind and juice. Bring
to a boil over m edium-high heat, stirring occasionally . Reduce the heat to
medium and simmer for 15 mi nutes, stirring occasionally , or until fruit is
soft. 3. Pu rée the mixture by rubbing it through a sieve into a non-reactive bowl. Discard seeds and pulp. 4. Add butter , sugar and eggs to the raspberry purée. Place the bowl over a
pan of simmering water and stir until the sugar is dissolved and the butter is
melted. Continue to cook, stirring constantly , until the curd thickens enough
to coat the back of a wooden spoon. 5. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-in ch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe rims, top with
flat lids and scre w on metal ring s. Return jars to the hot water b ath, topping
up with hot water if necessary . Bring to a full rolling boil and process jars
for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 6. Remove canner lid and wait 5  minutes before removing jars to a cooling
rack to cool completely . Check seals, label and store in the refr igerator for
up to 2 months. Use: Th is is a rich, buttery , silky-smooth confection that st ands in for
custard as a bas e for fruit tarts  and flans. Substitute it for whipped cream
as a  topping for desserts, or thin with 1 tbsp (15 mL) rice vinegar and
drizzle over fruit salads. Use it as a spread on toast or scones and as a
filling for layer cakes and crêpes.s w e e t  r a s p b e r r y  v i n e g a r
Befor e r efrigera tion, a popular way to pr eserve the unique taste of
raspberries was to make vinegar fr om the macerated fr esh berries. Stor ed
in stone war e cr o cks or gr een g lass jars, the vinegar was mixe d with cool
spring w ater or carbonated water for a r efr eshing summer drink called a
“shrub.” Y ou can make it in the winter using fr ozen raspberries. MAKES 3 CUPS (750 ML)
6 cups (1.5 L) fr esh or fr ozen raspberries, divided
1–3/4 cups (425 mL) r ed or white wine vinegar , divided2–1/2 cups (625 mL) granulated sugar
 
1. In a l ar ge non -reactive bowl or crock, combine 3 cups (750 mL) of the
raspberries with 1-1/4 cups (300 mL) of the vinegar . Cover and let stand at
room temperature for 24 hours. 2. U sing a potato masher , mash the raspberries to a pulp. Stra in the pulp
through a coarse sieve set over a lar ge non-reactive bowl or crock. Press on  solids with the back of a wooden spoon to release as m uch juice as
possible. 3. Add remainin g raspberries and vinegar to the strained juice . Cover and
let stand for 24 hours at room temperature. Mash with a potato masher and
strain the mixture through a coarse sieve into a Maslin pan or saucepan,
pressing on solids with the back  of a wooden spoon to release as  much juice
as possible. Discard pulp and seeds. 4. Meanwhile, sterilize three 1-cup (250 mL) jars, and scald the lids, lifter ,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 5. Bring the stra ined juice to a boil over high heat, stirring freq uently .
_OceanofPDF.com_Preserving_-_Pat_Crocker.txt
Summarize the following text section accurately and concisely. Maintain specific details and numerical information, and use anti-repetition mechanisms:

        P r e s e r v i n gThe Canning and Fr eezing
Guide for All Seasons
P A T CROCKER
D e d i c a t i o n
IN MEMOR Y OF DARLA MARIE GRAHAM (DUNN) 1953–2010E p i g r a p h
“W inter is an etching, spring a watercolor,
summer an oil painting and autumn
a mosaic of them all. ”
ST ANLEY HOROWITZT o the true heroes of the food system, the people who grow the produce, nurture the livestock, feed
and milk the goats, and make the cheese—the people who carry around the very earth at the tips of
their fingers. Contents
Dedication
Epigraph
Introduction
About the Photographs
Preserving Basics
Spring
Apricots
Raspberries
Rhubarb
Strawberries
Artichokes
Asparagus
Spring Herbs
Summer
Blackberries
Blueberries
Cherries
Currants
Gooseberries
Melons
Nectarines
Peaches
Plums
Beans
Carrots
PicklesCucumbers
Eggplant
Fennel
Garlic Scapes
Kohlrabi
Peas
Sweet Husk T omatoes
T omatoes
T urnips
Zucchini
Summer Herbs
Fall
Apples
Cranberries
Pears
Persimmons
Beets
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Corn
Garlic
Onions
Parsnips
Peppers
Pumpkin
Squash
Fall HerbsW inter
Citrus Fruits
Grapefruit
Lemons
Oranges
Exotics/T ropical Fruits
Mangoes
Pineapples
Pomegranates
Dried Fruits
Dried Apricots
Dried and Fresh Figs
W inter Pears
Mushrooms
W inter Herbs
Sources/Resources
Bibliography
Glossary
Index
Acknowledgements
About the Author
Copyright
About the PublisherI n t r o d u c t i o n
THE “EA T LOCAL, BUY SEASONAL”  f oo d movement is changing the
way we think and act—taking us right back to how our forebe ars thought
and acte d. If locally raised and produced food is the “new or g anic,” then
preserving the harvest is the “new food technique. ”
But while we m ay be returning to some of the old ways, there are a few
significant dif ferences between our great-grandparents’ need to survive and
our desi re to eat well and be part of a slow food revolution. First, our
ancestors in this harsh land tilled the soil themselves, whereas we have
access to local p roduce from a w ide array of venues, including community
gardens, CSA co-operatives, urban, country and farm markets, greengrocers
and supermarkets. Secondly, the preserving pioneers were content to put beans on the table in
January. For us, perhaps that jar of or ganic green and wax beans  we pickled
in Augu st will be the star of a winter Niçoise Salad  with grilled whitefish or
perch. Preserving has moved beyond survival. Our jars of brilliant
Pomegranate Pepper Jelly  and Peaches and Cream Relish  are rem inders th at
we c an t ake bac k an important p art of the food chain and dine a s though we
were at a fine restaurant. Why another book on pr eserving. Because along with the why and the how to make the most of local bounty,
today’ s y oung homemakers, parents, working mothers, single co oks or first-
time co oks want to be creativ e when using those precious jewels that
shimmer so brightly on pantry shelves. They want to eat well every day, and
they want to us e their own pr eserves rather than contribute to the food
factory conglomerates. Pr eserving  is dif ferent from almost all other bookson pres erving because it of fers stunningly easy recipes using the
exceptional preserves found in these pages. It is comforting to know that a p antry full of flavourful food sits ready to be
used. W ith the twist of a lid and the recipes in this book, you can serve
restaurant-style dishes with home-style quality and economy. Pr eserving  i s a pra ctical book with simple concepts. It follows the season s
and the diverse foods they bring to our market basket and kitchen pantry. And it of fers great ideas for what to do with the homemade sauces,
chutneys, pickle s, jams and jelli es. This book is the key to the modern-day
preserving puzz le. Our time sp ent preserving is an enjoyable part of our
busy life—a relaxing end in and of itself—but Pr eserving  also saves us time
by prov iding q uick, homema de everyday recipes for using up our
homemade bounty. Why bother with seasonal foods. Eating s easonally—that is, buyi ng and cooking food at the peak of ripeness
grown close to where you live—ensures that we pay attention to the natural
rhythms of the e arth. It forces us out into the countryside or th e garden or
the wee kly market to see, literally, “what’ s up”—what plant h as poked a
pale green blade of life through the soil toward our grateful plate. Local, seasonal foods tend to be more economical because there is a glut of
the sam e plant at the same time. They taste better, store longer and may
even be  healthier because they have not travelled an average 2,400
kilometres to get to your kitch en. Besides being economical, local and
seasonal food habits are healthy for individuals, communities an d the global
environment. Why all the fuss about local food. Good fa rmers know their business. They grow varieties of fruits and
vegetables for the right reasons—nutrition and taste and cooking properties
—not because they fit a mechan ical picker or transport well. Th eir varieties
are naturally suited to the soil and weather conditions of their area. They
might b e preserving heritage varieties; they might even be followingor ganic principles; and they know the food they produce, from seed to table. Moreover, they are certainly in touch with their customers and listen to their
concerns. W e all benefit when good farmers can stay in business. Of cours e, there are other, meas urable reasons for buying locally produced
food. Th ere are documented facts about the number of kilometres produce
travels, its ripeness, the methods employed to keep it “edible,” barrels of
fossil fuels used, wasteful packaging, factory farming, irradiation, genetic
engineering, food safety, pesticides, animal welfare and the accumulated
ef fect th ese factors are having on  the health of both the environment and the
individuals consuming factory food. But for me, it is simple: get to know the guy who raises the turnips and you
will eat better and probably be healthier. An apple is an apple, right. In a wor d: no. Y ou don’ t have to know the genealogy of plants to eat well,
but you do need  to know that every fruit and every vegetable yo u eat is one
of perhaps dozens, hundreds or even thousands of varieties that we have to
choose from. For example, some estimates put the number of apple varieties
worldwide at a whopping 7,500; there is a unique variety of Greek fava
bean tha t clings to life nowhere else in the world but on the island of
Santorini; and Prince Louis Albe rt de Broglie grows more than 600 kinds of
heritage tomatoes at his château in the Loire V alley. W e definitely need to
know that there is more out there than Granny Smith and Delicious. So why is our choice in apples  limited to four or five varieties. Factory
farms, distributo rs and lar ge chain supermarkets are only interested in
narrowing the choice to what is easy: easy to grow, harves t, transport,
purchase, display and sell. Their concerns run counter to our concerns. By
becoming more aware of the pla nts we might enjoy, we can start asking for
a wider variety of plant food and, perhaps more importantly, we will
become engage d in the issues surrounding the preservation of diversity
along with heritage varieties. In my view, genetically altered seeds or copyrighted seeds or plants bred to
produce sterile seeds are not in our best interest—in fact, they only reward
the chemical companies that invent them. There is  one more reason to search out local, seasonal varieties: it forces us
to exper iment w ith plants and v arieties we may not have taste d. The first
time I bit into a wedge of green Zebra tomato, I was instantly  transported
back 40 years to  the front porch  of my parents’ home on a sweltering late-
September even ing. The true tomato essence of that one bite communicated
the s mell of slig htly burnt toast spread with old nippy cheddar c heese (from
a fo il-lined wooden box, not a plastic tub), the sound of a W orld Series
game on  the radio and the aromatic flavour of my father ’ s  purple-red
beefsteak, carved into thick slabs and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Up
until tha t mome nt, I had for gott en the fragrance and taste of real tomatoes
and the sound of baseball on a transistor radio. —Pat Cr ockerA b o u t  t h e  P h o t o g r a p h s
Like the recipes in this book, all  of the food photographs are of real food in
real reci pes. They were shot in  my kitchen either prior to, during or just
after a recipe was tested. If a spoon is askew, it is because I dropped it to
grab the camera. If the raspberry curd in the tiramisù is starting to ooze out
of the layers, it is because I didn’ t thicken it and pipe it into the layers using
a pastry bag in o rder to get a perfectly straight line. Y ou would n’ t resort to
the things that food stylists do in order to capture the one perfect slice,
scoop o r slab, so I have not employed artificial styling techni ques in the
photographs on these pages. Instead, what I hope has been transferred
through both the recipes and their photographs is a love for the integrity of
the food and a desire to preserve its essence. P r e s e r v i n g  B a s i c s
FOOD SPOILS BECAUSE OF BACTERIA,  yeasts or moulds in the soil,
in the food, in the air or on kitchen tools and equipment surfaces. This is a
natural p rocess t hat happens even if fresh fruit and vegetables are stored in
the refrigerator. The goal of preserving is to control moisture, acid, nutrients
and war m temperatures so that deteriorating agents are deprived of what
they need to work their destruction. Preserving methods such as salting or immersing in vinegar or heavy sugar
syrups have been used for centuries, but the canning process was
discovered as a result of the N apoleonic W ars in the early 1 9th century. Canning does two things: it sterilizes both the container and the food by
using he at, and it hermetically s eals the container so that micro-or ganisms
do not contaminate the food after it has been sterilized. Essential:  I t is im portant to wash produce  (even or ganic produce) because
that is the first step in reducing bacteria, yeasts and moulds, as well as in
keeping food fresh. W ashing removes contaminants, including dust, soil,
lar ge numbers of micro-or ganisms and or ganic matter, and it is a critical
first step in the sterilization process. Pr eserving the Harvest
Produce does not improve wit h preserving, so use only fres h, just-ripe,
blemish-free fruit and vegetables. I try to clear my kitchen and my work
schedule before going to marke t so that I have the rest of the day (perhaps
even the  next day as well) to enjoy the preserving ritual that comes with
seasonal produce. Essential:  H arvest  or purchase fruit and vegetables at the peak of ripenes s,
and eat or preserve immediately or, at the most, within one or two days. If yo u c an’ t pre serve immediate ly, chill produce right away an d keep it in
the refri gerator at 32°F (0°C). B ring a cooler or insulated bags and a block
of ice for transp orting ingredien ts home from the market or pick-your -own
farm. Al l produce is heat sensitive, but berries, asparagus, green s and other
tender fruit and vegetables are particularly vulnerable. Fruit and vegetables (zucchini in particular) all produce a glut—they ripen
all at once—and  flood the gard en and markets, begging to be  dealt with
immediately. Kn owing what is “in season” each month is the k ey to being
able to drop everything in order to preserve at the peak of harvest. Acidity of Foods
Fruit and  vegetables are considered to be either high or low in acid, and it is
the a cid content that determines  the method used to process them for long-
term storage. High-acid foods  can be safely heat processed in boiling wate r. High-acid
foods ar e foods with a pH of 4. 6  or lower. Most fruits, jams, jellies and fruit
spreads are high-acid. Some f ruits, such as figs, and some vegetables,
notably tomatoe s, are not quite  acid, but when vinegar or lemon juice is
added, they may be safely processed in a boiling water canner for a
specified length of time. Low-acid foods must be heat processed in a pressure canner because the
bacteria that thrive on them are resistant to the temperature of boiling water
processing (212 °F/100°C). V eg etables, meats, poultry and seafood soups,
stews, sauces, dips and vegetable spreads, or any foods with a pH higher
than 4. 6 are low-acid foods. Pectin
All land  plants contain pectin in their cell walls. Pectin is m ade up of a
complex set of polysaccharides (carbohydrate) essential to binding cells
together. Due to the gel-like nature of some forms of pectin, they are
considered to be a soluble fibre that has been shown to re duce blood
cholesterol levels in humans. Apples and crabapples, quinces, plums, currants, gooseberries, cranberries,
oranges and other citrus fruits (r ind and pips) contain high levels  of the type
of pectin  perfec t for jelly makin g. Soft fruits, like cherries, raspberries and
strawberries, have relatively low pectin levels. Pectin in  the high-yielding plant s is the substance that makes preserves jell,
or firm up. In the past, the fir st step in making a fruit preserve was to
extract t he pecti n from one or a combination of the high-pectin  fruits. This
extraction process involved boiling high-pectin fruits to a mash and then
straining the juice in a couple o f stages. Pectin in the juice was then added
to low-p ectin fruit like strawberries to make jam, jelly, spreads and other
fruit preserves. Commercially made pectin is available in powder and liquid for m, and now
“low sug ar” pectin is sold, which allows for a reduced amount of sugar to
be u sed in jams and other traditionally sweet preserves. Made from apples
or citrus fruits, commercial pectin (there are several brands available) is
similar to homemade pectin, except that it always works if package
directions are followed; homemade pectin requires guesswork a nd may not
always produce a reliable result. See “ Homemade Pectin ”. T esting for the Jelly Stage
Y ou only  need to test for the jell y stage when you are not using commercial
pectin. W hen commercial pectin  is used following the package directions or
the recipes in this book, the mixture will always set, or jell. Some of the
recipes i n this book do not use commercial pectin, but rely on the natural
pectin in the fruit. So it’ s important to know how to test for the jelly stage. When a mixture  of fruit or fruit juice, sugar and acid (usually in  the form of
lemon ju ice) is boiled rapidly, or “hard” boiled, eventually it will reach the
“jelly st age. ” D epending on the natural pectin in the fruit, this could take
anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours. T esting is important to see if the
mixture has reached the jelly st age, so the highly concentrated fruit-sugar
mixture does not go past it and on to the soft or even hard candy stage. Anyone who has ever for gotten a pan of strawberry jam on the  burner andcome back to find soft strawber ry tof fee can attest to the importance of this
test. There are three ways to test for the jelly stage. Thr ee W ays to T est for the Jelly Stage
1. The Thermo meter T est:  The jelling point for jelly is 220°F (104°C). Using a  candy thermometer is the most accurate way to measure the
temperature of a preserve. Once the mixture has reached 220°F (104°C),
remove it from t he heat to keep it from progressing to the soft and hard ball
candy stages. 2. T he S heet T e st:  U sing a cold m etal spoon, scoop out some boiling jelly. Before t he mixt ure has reached the jelly stage, it will drip of f the spoon in
two separate drops. When the mixture comes of f the spoon in  a sheet or
when tw o drops  come together before dripping of f the spoon,  the jelly is
done. 3. The Plate T est  (below) : Drop a tablespoon (15 mL) of the mixture onto a
cold plate and freeze for 5 minutes. Remove the plate from the freezer. The
mixture is done if it wrinkles when pushed with a fork. Essential:  Remove the kettle from the heat while you are doing sheet or
plate tests, because if heated past the jelly stage, the mixture will go to the
soft ball candy stage. Home Canning Equipment and Methods
There m ay be some lingering habits from the past that are co nfusing the
whole issue of sterilization and food safety for you. Y ears ago it was
thought that high concentrations of sugar, salt and vinegar wer e enough to
preserve high-acid foods (without processing after the food was canned) as
long as they were packed into s terilized jars and sealed properly. That was
called th e Open  Kettle Method of canning, and you may still find recipes
for jams  made with high-acid fruits that use it. I must say that, for the most
part, the  technique worked, and I used it myself. But I wouldn’ t want to be
the individual who, in February, discovered her favourite strawberry jam
warming itself in the cold cella r with little green angora-like sweaters—or
worse, the person who poisoned someone with home preserves. The Ope n Kettle Method relies on four things for a safe prod uct. First, it
can only be use d with high-acid foods (fruit). Second, it hard boils the
mixture, meaning the fruit and s ugar mixture is brought to a rolling boil that
cannot b e stirred  down, and it is held there for 20 minutes or lo nger. Third,
the jars and lids must be able to seal hermetically—there can be no nicks in
the jar rims, and you must use new lids every time—or you m ust seal the
top of the food with a thin laye r of food-grade wax. Last (and this is themost dif ficult to achieve), the jars, lids, kitchen utensils and anything else
that will come into contact with the preserve must be sterile. T oday, we want quick results and have come to rely on commercial pectin
to th icken our fr uit condiments,  sometimes even if they are already high in
natural fruit pectin. This is convenient, but in doing so, we eliminate the
need for  the hard boil, which kills spore-forming bacteria. Be rnardin, the
preserving experts, recommend that the only way to ensure com plete safety
of ca nned foods is to use a boiling water bath or pressure-canning technique
in clean, hot pre serving jars that are capped with new flat tops and screw
bands. When food is processed for the specified length of time, the food, as
well as the jar  and lid, are sterilized, so unlike with the O pen Kettle
Method, the jars only need to be hot, not sterilized, before packing them
with food. Essential:  A lways process canned food using either the Boiling W ate r
Method or the Pressure Canner Method. When I first started this book,  I was not clear about using t he oven for
heating preserving jars. I had never used that method, but I knew people
did. Aga in, I went to the experts, the people who manufacture  preserving
jars. The ir answer: Do not heat canning jars in the oven beca use hot and
cold spots can occur, causing the jars to explode when filled with boiling
food. Equipment
If yo u a re only preserving fruit and making jams, jellies and fr uit spreads,
some small tools, a jam kettle and a lar ge pot will be all you need. If you
plan to include vegetables (other than pickles, which can be processed using
the Boiling W ater Canner Method), you will need a pressure canner. Jars and Lids
I hav e h eard of people using all sorts of recycled jars and lids (even antique,
glass-top types) to preserve, and some say they have never had a  problem. Irecommend that  only Mason jars be trusted with your precious  condiment
gems, because these jars are s pecifically designed to withsta nd the high
temperatures of heat processing, as well as the subsequent cooling. Essential:  For  preserving, never use recycled jars that previously hel d
commercial food products. The lids will not seal properly, and the jars may
not hold up to water boiling and subsequent cooling. Choose the size of jar according to the recipe and how you will use it later in recipes. Y ou can recycle
Mason jars (if they have no nicks or cracks) and the screw band part of the lids, but use new flat tops
each time you preserve. Basic jar sizes shown here are (clockwise from top): quart (4 cups/1 L), 1
cup (250 mL), pint (2 cups/500 mL). Mason jars are sealed with tw o-piece lids—flat tops and screw bands. Always use new flat tops because, once sealed, they must be pried of f,
leaving the rims raised (sometimes only slightly) enough that a perfect seal
will not be possi ble next time. T he gummy ring around the inside of the flat
top allows for th e airtight seal. T he ring is softened when the lids are heated
(see step 2 in the Boiling W ater Method, Boiling W ater Method, Step by
Step ). The screw band holds the flat top in place while the food inside the
jar is heating. Steam from the hot food escapes, causing a vacuum inside the
jar that pulls the flat top down  and creates a hermetic seal. Screw bands
must only be tightened firmly by hand (see step 5 in the Boiling W ater
Method, Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ) in order to allo w the steam to
escape. Later, once a seal is obtained (see step 8 in the Boiling W ater
Method ), th e ba nds can  be removed, cl eaned and stored for the next batch
of preserves. Small T ools
I find that using tools designed for a specific task makes the job  easier. My
canning equipment includes a thermometer, magnetic lid lifter, non-metallic
air releaser and headspace measure, stainless steel wide-mouth funnel and
expandable jar lifter. Kettles
Pr eserving Pans
Although any lar ge, deep pot or saucepan can be used to boil fru it and sugar
for jams, the hea vier the pan, the  less the risk of scorching, because the heat
will be evenly d istributed across  the base. Be sure to use a pot d eep enough
to allow for the mixture to bubble up, which can happen rather q uickly once
the sugar melts into the juice. My favo urite preserving pan is a stainless steel Maslin pan. Conical in
shape, w ith a narrow, heavy base that fits modern burners, the pan flares
slightly from bottom to top, w hich allows for maximum evaporation of
liquid. V arious brands have capacities from 6 to 12 quarts (6 to 12 L). A
very long wooden spoon is essential for stirring the mixture as it boils. This Maslin pan is an excellent choice for boiling. Boiling W ater Canner
Foods th at are high in acid—most fruit and some vegetables with vinegar
and lemon juice added—can be processed using a boiling wat er canner. I
use this lar ge pot measuring 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter an d 10 inches
(25cm) h igh as my boiling water  canner. It’ s big enough to hold five 1-quart
(1 L) jars and deep enough to allow for an inch (2. 5 cm) of water to safely
boil above the ja rs. Don’ t find out the hard way—with a scald or  burn—that
your pot or saucepan isn’ t deep enough to allow for 1 inch (2. 5 cm) of
rapidly b oiling w ater above the tops of the jars. There must be a minimum
of 3  inch es (8 cm) of space in the pot above the jars. A lid helps bring the
water to a boil faster. The rack keeps the jars from coming  into direct
contact with the heat at the bott om of the pan and allows the boiling water
to heat the entire outside of the jars. Pr essur e Canner
Using a pressure canner is essential for low-acid foods because the bacteria
that thriv e on these foods can on ly be destroyed at temperatures higher than
that of boiling water. A wide variety of pressure canners ar e available. Pressure canners range from 6-quart (6 L) to 24-quart (24 L) capacity. Some
are electric, while others are heated on the top of the stove. Methods
P r e p a r i n g  a n d  C a n n i n g  F r u i t
Fruit should be preserved at the peak of ripeness. If you must store fruit,
keep it unwashe d for a day and wash just before preserving. Directions for
preparing the various fruits are included in the preparation notes for each. What follows are some general comments about preparing fruit for canning. 1. W ash
Rinse small fruit under running water, or wash in several changes of water, lifting the fruit out of the
water so that the dirt does not settle back on it. Use a sieve and gentle water spray for berries. Do not let them soak in water.
The main difference is that our ancestors had to grow their own food, whereas we have access to a wide variety of locally grown produce.
What is the main difference between preserving in the past and preserving today?
The purpose of preserving is to control moisture, acid, nutrients, and warm temperatures to prevent bacteria, yeast, and moulds from growing. This is important to ensure food safety.
What is the purpose of preserving, and why is it important?
It is essential to wash produce, even if it's organic, to remove contaminants and prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast, and moulds.
What is the importance of washing produce before preserving?
The Open Kettle Method is only suitable for high-acid foods and relies on four factors, whereas the Boiling Water Method is a more reliable and safe method for processing low-acid foods.
What is the difference between the Open Kettle Method and the Boiling Water Method?
The pectin in the fruit or juice is essential for binding the cells together and helping the preserve set.
What is the purpose of the pectin in the recipe?