Pour hot water over cubes, leaving a 1-inch (2.5 cm) headspace.Run a thin non-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to allow air to
escape. Add hot water , if necessary , to leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm)  headspace. W ipe se aling ed ge of jars with a clean, damp, lint-free cloth. Position flat
lids over the tops of jars and hand-tighten screw bands. 4. P lace jars in  pr essur e canner:  Use  a Pressure Canner accordi ng to the
chart below for Dial-Gauge or follow manufacturer ’ s instructions. 5. Cool, Label and Stor e:  T urn of f heat; let pressure return to zero
naturally . Once gauge shows 0 pressure, wait 2 minutes then open the vent. Unlock and remove canner lid. W ait 10 minutes then lift jars from canner
and place on a clean towel or ra ck. Do not re-tighten screw ba nds. Let the
jars cool  to room temperature. T his may take from 12 to 24 hours. Remove
and store screw bands. Check lid seals ( Pressure Canner Method ). W ipe and
label sealed jars. Store in a cool, dark place. m a p l e  n u t  s q u a s h
Y ou will love this side dish—it  is perfect for Thanksgiving or  Christmas
dinner because it can be made in advance and popped into the oven to heat
while th e turkey  is being carved. W ith several cups of squash (you can also
used cooked pumpkin) in the fr eezer or pantry , this dish is very easy . Double the r ecipe for a lar ger amount, but for a holiday me al at which
several v egetable dishes ar e being served, count on this r ecipe serving 6 to
8 people.As a n al ternative to butter , I hav e tossed the squash with 1 cup (250 mL) of
Crabapple Chutney . Us e applesauce or any savoury  chutney in this book as
an a lternative. Use Hubbar d, Butternut or Pink Banana squ ash in this
r ecipe. 13- by 9-inch (3 L) baking pan, lightly oiled
Pr eheat oven to 350°F (180°C)
MAKES 4 SER VINGS (SEE ABOVE)
4 cups (1 L) cooked squash cubes, drained if canned, thawed if fr ozen
1 cup (250 mL) Crabapple Chutney
3 tbsp (45 mL) maple syrup
1/2 tsp (2 mL) gr ound cinnamon
1/4 tsp (1 mL) gr ound nutmeg sea salt and pepper
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped toasted pecans or walnuts
In prepa red bak ing pan, combine squash, chutney maple syrup, cinnamon
and nutmeg. Grind some salt and pepper over top. Cover with a lid or foil
and heat in pre heated oven for 30 to 45 minutes. Garnish w ith toasted
pecans.p i c k l e d  b a b y  v e g e t a b l e s
Some m arket gar deners gr ow mini vegetables for the r estaurant trade and
may have surplus available at peak times. Look for baby carr ots and
parsnips and the mini varieties of squash (pattypan and cr ookneck),
eggplant, turnip and pearl onions. MAKES 8 CUPS (2 L)
3 lb (1.5 kg) tiny whole vegetables
1/2 cup (125 mL) coarse salt
3 cups (750 mL) white vinegar1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
4 to 8 sprigs fr esh thyme, marjoram or or egano
4 to 16 small hot r ed peppers
4 to 8 star anise
1. In a lar ge saucepan, cover vegetables with water . Bring to a boil over
high he at. Reduce heat and s immer gently for 5 minutes. Drain and
immerse in cold water for 5 minutes. Drain well and pat dry
2. In  a lar ge ston e crock or non- reactive container , dissolve salt in 8 cups (2
L) water . Add vegetables. Cover with a clean towel and let stand for 3
hours. 3. M eanwhile, heat eight 1-cup (250 mL) or four 1-pint (2-cup/500 mL) jars
in b oiling water (see page xx), and scald the lids, lifter , funnel and tongs
(see page xx). 4. In a saucepan , combine vinegar and sugar . Bring to a boil over high heat
and keep hot. 5. U sing a colander and working in batches, if necessary drain a nd rinse the
vegetables well under cold wate r . Drain well. Pack vegetables into hot jars,
adding a sprig of thyme, 1 or 2 hot peppers and 1 star anise into each jar . 6. Pour hot brine over vegetables, leaving a 1/2-inch (1 cm) headspace. Run
a thi n no n-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to allow air to escape. Add mo re hot brine, if necessary to leave 1/2-inch (1 cm) head space. W ipe
rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to the hot water
bath, top ping up with hot water if necessary Bring to a full roll ing boil and
process jars for 10 minutes (see page xx). 7. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool completely Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up to
1 year . Use: These tiny pickled gems are delightful in salads and as a side dish
for grilled chicken and fish. Fr eezing Squash
1. Select Equipment:  Se lect suitable-size freezer c ontainers, bags or
Mason jars ( Freezing ). 2. Blanch 1-inch (2.5 cm) peeled squash cubes in boiling water for 5 to 7
minutes or until soft. L ift out and plunge into cold w ater . Let stand for 5
minutes. Drain and pat dry . Leave cubes whole or mash and pack into
containers, leavi ng a 1-inch (2.5  cm) headspace. Remove air , lab el and seal. Freeze for up to 9 months.F a l l  H e r b s
HERB PLANTS REALL Y R ESPUND T O PRUNING,  so if you have
been dil igent in cutting back and using fresh herbs all summer , your plants
will be very happy: dense, with small tender leaves. Fall is traditionally the
time for  drying herbs and making herb oils and vinegars. Herbalists gather
roots fro m herb s such as wild ginger , chicory and echinacea o nce the first
frost of the fal l has withered the tops and the ener gy of the plant is
concentrated in  the roots. Y ou  may find parsley root for sale at your
farmer ’ s market  at this time of year . W ith the exception of la vender , the
herbs lis ted here are harvested from about June onward, but now is the time
to bring them in for drying and using in preserves. How to Pr eserve Herbs by Drying
Early in the day ,  after the dew has evaporated but before the ful l sun has hit
the herb  garden,  clip green herbs and any flowering tops to just above the
woody stems. Swish in a sink full of cool water to which a drop of food-
safe soa p has been added. Rinse well, drain and pat dry . Loo sely gather
bunches of the s ame herb together and tie. Label each bunch. Hang in a dry ,
dark spot. When partially dry , tighten the string on the bunches, because the
stalks w ill shrin k as they dry . When crackling dry , strip the leaves from
their ste ms, but leave them who le. Store in a labelled airtight container in a
cool spot (not o ver the stove). Keep herbs for up to one year and replace
with fresh dried the next season.Rosemary  (left) and sage  (right) from my herb garden are laid out on parchment paper to dry after
cleaning. I let the herbs shrink a bit before tying in bunches and hanging in my pantry to dry
completely . Sometimes I stack these sheets of partially dry herbs in a cupboard or drawer to dry
completely instead. Horseradish
Most of ten thou ght of as the roast beef condiment, the sharp and mustard-
like heat of horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)  can be used in small
amounts in a wide range of dishes, from stir -fried chicken and lamb to
cheese and white sauces for vegetables and fish. T o Mak e Horse radish Cream:  Wh ip 1/2 cup (125 mL) whipping cream
with 2 tsp (10 mL) granulated  sugar; fold in 2 tsp (10 mL) white wine
vinegar and 2 to 3 tbsp (25 to 45 mL) grated fresh horseradish (or more to
taste). Let stand for 20 minutes before serving with roasted meats, chicken
or fish. A dollop perks up steamed vegetables as well. Or egano
Food writer Craig Claiborne c alled oregano (Origanum  spp.) the “pizza
herb” be cause it  is an essential ingredient in Italian tomato sauc es. There isno d oubt that ho memade tomato  sauce is enlivened by the fresh essence of
oregano. There are many oregano cultivars; at right is a variegated type. Greek o regano ( O. vulgar e spp. Hirtum)  i s my personal favourite. The o nly
variety to avoid for cooking is O. vulgar e,  also called W ild Marjoram,
because it is absolutely tasteless. Rosemary
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)  has a p iny and pungent flavo ur , with
notes of mint, citrus and ginger . These characteristics, along with its
ever green needle-like leaves, make it an excellent herb for spiking
preserves and for drying. The v ariety on the right, which happens to be in
bloom, is Corsican Blue. Sage
Probably the most popular use  of sage (Salvia officinalis ), is  in bread
stuf fing for poultry , so it is the predominant fragrance when T hanksgiving
or C hristmas turkey is cooking. But sage is also used in muf fins and other
sweet or  savour y quick breads, egg dishes, custards and bread puddings. It
may be used in tomato sauces and some jelly recipes.The purple variety (S. officinalis purpur ea ), adds colour and is used as you
would g arden green sage—in apple compotes and other preserves, stuf fing,
sausage, omelettes, soups and stews. W ith its pineapple scent and deep red flowers, Pineapple Sage (S. elegans ),
adds a distinctly fruity pineapp le taste to jams, jelly , drinks (it is often
added to syrups), and chicken and fish dishes. A ch if fonade of herbs is a thin s hred made by stacking herb
leaves (like the sage, left) an d cutting across the stack
horizontally . Finely shredded herbs, such as sage and basil,
are used in jelly , jams and vinaigrette dressings.m e d i t e r r a n e a n  h e r b  p a s t e
Fall is the time to make this versatile flavour paste and fr eeze it for use as a
poultry r ub (see  mediterranean herb paste ) or to spice stuffing. It can form
the basis for a vinaigr ette, soup,  dip or spr ead, and even as a flavouring for
savoury muffins and scones. Fr eeze it in ice cube trays or 1/2-cu p (125 mL)
amounts. MAKES 3/4 CUP (175 ML)
1 large bunch fr esh sage 10 cloves garlic
1/2 cup (125 mL) fr esh thyme leaves
1/4 cup (50 mL) fr esh r osemary leaves
2 tbsp (25 mL) Dijon mustard
1 tbsp (15 mL) sea salt
1/4 cup (50 mL) olive oil
1 tbsp (15 mL) tarragon or white wine vinegar
 
1. Using a mezzaluna or French knife, finely chop sage leaves. 2. In a mortar and pestle, pound the garlic into a pulp. 3. Add sage, thyme and rosemary leaves. Pound and grind until well mixed
into the garlic.4. A dd mustard and salt and gr ind to a paste, adding the olive oil by the
tablespoon until a thick paste is achieved. Add vinegar just before the last
of the oil is added. Note:  Y ou can use the food processor to make this paste; the consistency
will be smoother , with fewer pieces of the individual herbs. T o Make Mediterranean Herb V inaigr ette:
In a clean jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine 1 scant tablespoon (15 mL) of
the M editerranean Herb Paste, 1/4 cup (50 mL) olive oil and the  juice of 1/2
a lime or lemon. Use Mediterranean Herb Paste when roasting chicken and vegetables:
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Arrange chicken, fleshy part up, in a
shallow roasting  pan or on a ri mmed baking sheet. Rub 1/4 cup (50 mL)
Mediterranean Herb Paste evenly over the chicken. Distribute roughly cut
carrots, onions and potatoes in single layer evenly around the chicken
thighs. D rizzle o live oil over ve getables and chicken. Bake for 40 minutes
or until chicken and vegetables are cooked through.Use Me diterranean Herb Paste for roasted vegetables with pasta: Preheat
oven to 375°F (190°C). Com bine sliced zucchini, red pepper , onions,
carrots, parsnips  or other favour ite vegetables in a bowl. T oss with 1/4 cup
(50 mL)  Medite rranean Herb Paste. T ransfer to a shallow roast ing pan or a
rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until vegetables are
tender . T oss with cooked pasta and add more Mediterranean H erb Paste as
desired.W i n t e r“From December to March, there are for many of us three gardens—the
garden outdoors, the garden of pots and bowls in the house, and the garden
of the mind’ s eye.”
—KA THERINE S. WHITEC i t r u s  F r u i t s
CITRUS  IS THE GENUS NAME  for a group of flowering plants in the
Rutaceae  f amily . W e group the fruit of these tropical shrubs into t he
category citrus, which has beco me a widely used common te rm that has
expanded to include closely re lated fruits such as kumquats, which are
actually in the genus Fortunella. Oranges, tangerines, minneolas (tangerine
and grapefruit cross), tangelos (tangerine, grapefruit and orange cross),
lemons, limes, grapefruit and ugli fruit (a popular tangelo type) are all citrus
fruits. Even th ough some varieties of individual citrus fruits are available year
round, li ke all produce, citrus fruits have a definite season. In t he Northern
Hemisphere, there are winter fruits that peak from October to March, with
December , Janu ary and February being prime months for their availability
in both specialty food stores and supermarkets. This, and the fact that citrus
preserving techniques create distinctive flavours that are very dif ferent from
those of the fresh fruit, makes them a very good winter preserving fruit. Citrus trees are ever green trees that produce a wide range of oval to round fruits. The coloured outer
rind (or zest) is called the “epicarp” and contains essential oil glands that give each fruit its typical
fragrance. A thick, white, bitter “mesocarp,” or pith, lies between the rind and the inner tart or sweetpulp. T ogether the coloured rind and the white pith are referred to as the peel. The inside flesh or
pulp grows in sections that are divided by a thin (or thick, as in grapefruit) membrane. Pur chasing/Storing
Look for shiny f ruits, with no to uch of green or bruising, that are heavy in
the h and for their size. Citrus fruits should smell fragrant, not  fermented,
and there should be no signs of shrivelling or white patches. Keep citrus
fruits in  a cool, dark place for 3 or 4 days or in the crisper drawer of the
refrigerator for up to 1-1/2 weeks. Good W ith
Lemon or spicy herbs such as lemongrass, lemon verbena,
basil, sage, thyme, tarragon. Sweet seasonings such as vanilla, ginger , cinnamon, dark
chocolate. Egg and dairy dishes and bread puddings. Other fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, blueberries,
melon, peaches, avocado, mangoes, pomegranates. Mediterranean v egetables such  as fennel, shallots, olives;
other v egetables, such as asparagus, artichokes, beans,
broccoli. Chicken, goose and duck; fish such as mahi-mahi, trout,
salmon, perch; seafood. Pr eparation
The parts of citrus fruits used for preserves include the whole fruit; the
sectioned or chopped flesh; the chopped rind and flesh; the rind itself; and
sometimes the rind and pith.If the rind (or zest) is to be used, scrub the fruit with warm soapy water using a vegetable brush; rinse
well and pat dry . T o section citrus fruits: T rim away stem and blossom ends. Set one flat end on a cutting surface and,
using a paring knife, slice from top to bottom in a curve, cutting away the rind and the bitter white
pith. T ake the peeled fruit in hand and, working over a bowl to catch the juice, slice into sections using the
membrane as a cutting guide.When sectioning grapefruit (top), cut out the flesh sections between the tougher membrane so that the
sections do not include this tougher skin (bottom). Equipment for Grating and Using Citrus Rind:
When the outermost coloured p art of citrus rind is used in
cooking, it is of ten referred to as the zest. Citrus rind and
zest are the same  thing. The oil-rich and very fragrant zest is
separated from the bitter white pith that lies between it and
the sweet flesh by using the following specialized tools:
1. Use a vegetable peeler to remove 1/2-inch (1 cm) wide strips of coloured rind
or zest, being careful not to include the bitter white pith. Chop or cut the zestinto thin strips. 2. Use the round sharp holes on a zester to remove thin strands of zest, which are
often used to garnish a dish. 3. Use the wide knife on a zester to remove a continuous, 1/4-inch (5 mm) wide
strip of zest. These strips can be knotted or curled and used as a garnish. 4. Use a micro- grater or rasp to remove thin shreds of zest
when gr ated rind  or zest is called for in a recipe. Shown are
two dif ferent micro-graters: a lo ng, flat grater (left) that fits
over a bowl so that the rind can fall directly into the
mixture, and a hand-held grater with a handle (right).G r a p e f r u i t
FLORIDA IS THE LARGEST PRODUCER OF GRAPE FRUIT  in
North America, with T exas, Ca lifornia and Arizona providing a mere one-
quarter of the total output. Grap efruit is available year -round, but in Florida
and T exas sweet, plump grapefr uit are in peak season from late December
through April. Our modern varieties of grapefruit have been developed from the pomelo (Citrus maxima  or C.
grandis),  a lar ger , very seedy fruit with deeply pitted, puf fy and thick rinds. A pomelo (a.k.a. Shaddock, or Chinese Grapefruit, middle) is shown beside a T exas Red grapefruit (left) and a navel
orange (right). Good Pr eserving V arieties
Grapefruit has “white” or creamy-coloured or “red” flesh that can be pale
pink to brilliant ruby red. The ri nd can be pale yellow , deep yellow , orange
or red, with variations in between these shades. Duncan:  Per haps the oldest variety but mostly sold for commercial use , it
has white flesh, with good, sweet-tart flavour; lots of seeds; is excellent for
juicing, jelly and jams. Flame:  Nea rly seedless, with red flesh and a slight rind blush, making  it a
good variety for marmalade and jams, jelly and compotes.Marsh (Marsh Seedless):  A Duncan descendant; very ju icy and aromatic
with w hite flesh that is bal anced in acidity and sweetness; tender
membranes. Medium in size, with smooth yellow rind; nearly seedless. Balance of acidity and sweetness but somewhat less flavour than seeded
varieties. Rio Red:  S eedles s, distinctly reddish rind and deep red flesh; firmer and
smoother than Redblush; sweet-tart taste; excellent for juicing and
preserving. Star Ruby:  Mostly  grown in Florida; seedless, with the reddest flesh;
clean, sw eet and  crisp tasting; e asy to peel; easy to separate into segments;
smaller and less acidic than other varieties; a very good preserving variety
T wo r ed-fleshed grapefruit varieties: Ruby  and T exas Red. The red-
fleshed v arieties are at their darkest red when they are at their peak, which
may account for the variations in flesh colour in the same variety
T exas Red: Mostly grown in T exas; some are seedless, some have lar ge seeds; pale pink to red flesh,
and a yellow rind lightly tinged with red. Red flesh fades to pink, then buf f by end of season. Ruby Red (Redblush  and Ruby):  Seedless or very few seeds; bright red flesh; medium to lar ge,
with red-orange to red rind; a good preserving variety because the flesh holds its colour . sliced or diced citrus peel in syrup
Citr ons ar e the citrus of choice  for this traditional r ecipe, but they can be
har d to find. Y ou can use oranges, lemons and limes in p lace of the
grapefruit, but be sur e that the variety you choose has a high r atio of pith
and rind to fruit. Spoon the peel and syrup over ice cr eam or pound cake,
or chop the peel for use in holiday fruit pudding and fruitcake. Note: This pr eserve is not water -bath pr ocessed to hermetically seal it, but
the high  sugar content is enough  to keep it for up to 6 months i f it is stor ed
in st erilized jars in the r efrigerator . Should you wish to pr ocess the jars to
keep them longer or to stor e t hem in a cool cupboar d, r eturn filled and
capped jars to t he hot water bath, topping up with hot water i f necessary . Bring to a full r olling boil and pr ocess jars for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater
Method, Step by Step ). T r ansfer to a cooling rack to c ool completely . Check
seals, label and stor e in a cool place for up to 1 year . MAKES 4 CUPS (1 L)
4 grapefruit or 2 pomelos
1–1/4 cups (300 mL) granulated sugar
1–1/4 cups (300 mL) water
 
1. W ash grapefruit following di rections on Citrus Fruits . T rim and discard
the e nds. For sli ces: slice crosswise into thin slices. Remove seeds and set
slices aside. For diced peel: Follow directions on Citrus Fruits . Set diced
peel aside. 2. Steril ize two 1-pint (2-cup/50 0 mL) jars, and scald the lids, funnel and
lifter ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 3. In  a heavy-bottomed saucepa n, combine sugar and water . Bri ng to a boil
over me dium-high heat, stirring constantly to dissolve the sugar . Stir in thegrapefruit slices  and bring back to the boil. Gently simmer , without stirring,
for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let slices cool in the syrup. 4. Using tongs, fill jars with slic es and cover with syrup to within 1/4-inch
(5 mm). Store in a very cold place or the refrigerator for up to 6 months.L e m o n s
THOUGHT T O HA VE ORIGINA TED IN REGIONS OF EAST
INDIA,  Burma and south China, the lemon that is most commonly used in
North America (Citrus limon,  syn. C. limonium)  was brought to North
Africa b y Arabs  and, from there, taken to the rest of Europe by returning
Crusaders. Good Pr eserving V arieties
Bearss:  Rind is rich in oil; flesh is very juicy and acidic, with few seeds. Now tho ught to  be the leading variety in Florida, it is good for preserving;
peaks August through November . Eur eka:  T he most widely grown lemo n in the world, it is a true “bitter
lemon,” with a h igh juice and ac id content. Rind is smooth and thin; flesh is
tart with few seeds. Season peaks from winter to early spring. Femminello:  One of the oldest, most popular Italian varieties, with several
strains that produce fruit at dif ferent times. Fruits are medium in size,
oblong with a pointed tip. Rind is yellow , finely pitted, medium-smooth,
medium-thick. F lesh is juicy , v ery acidic, with few , mostly u ndeveloped
seeds. One strain or another is available all year . V illafranca:  Thought to hav e originated in Sicily , it was the leading lemon
cultivar in Florida for many ye ars. T art juice and few seeds. One strain is
available year -round; one peaks in the summer months. T wo fruits that are closely related to lemons (in the Citrus  genus but of the
C. medica  s pe cies) are the Citron and the Fingered Citron. Their thick rinds
make both a popular choice for candying or preserving in syrup.Citr on:  L ar ger than lemon, with a tou gh and warty rind that is usually
pared and discarded; the inner pith is very thick, and is sliced or diced and
preserved in syrup or candied. Not used for its flesh or juice, which is dry
and insig nificant, the citron is cu ltivated in the Mediterranean region, where
it ha s naturalized (being original ly from Southeast Asia). Citrons were once
used for medicinal purposes. Meyer:  A hybrid, possibly lemon crossed with mandarin orange; introduced into the United States
by Frank N. Meyer from a Chinese ornamental plant. Rind is smooth, dark yellow to light orange,
with numerous small oil glands, and is thin, making it perfect for preserving whole. Pulp is pale
orange-yellow , usually in 10 segments with tender walls; sweet, juicy , moderately acid with medium
lemon flavour; seeds are small and relatively few . Season peaks from December to April in North
America, with fruit coming from California, Florida and T exas. lemon chutney
This chutney gets better and better overtime. In fact, it is best when “aged”
fr om 4 to 6 mon ths. So if you make it in January or February , this tangy
grill bud dy will be r eady for barbecue season in the summer , when it will
lend zest to grilled vegetables, fish and chicken with its spicy , rich
marmalade flavour . Don’ t be put off by the overnight macera ting of the
rind, flesh and salt, because al l you do is chop the lemons, combine with
salt, cover and let stand overnight. MAKES 4 CUPS (1 L)
8 Bearss lemons (or other thick-skinned variety), scrubbed
2 tbsp (25 mL) pickling salt
4 large cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup (125 mL) dried currants
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped dried apricots1/2 cup (125 mL) fr eshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup (125 mL) cider vinegar
1 tbsp (15 mL) fr eshly grated gingerr oot
1 dried cayenne pepper , crushed
1 tsp (5 mL) gr ound cardamom
1 tsp (5 mL) crushed coriander
1/2 tsp (2 mL) hot r ed pepper flakes, optional
2 cups (500 mL) + 2 tbsp (25 mL) packed br own sugar
One of the great  rewards of home preserving is that you get
familiar with a wide variety of spices and blends by using
and tasting them in the preserve s. For the Lemon Chutney , I
recommend that you use the f ollowing spices (clockwise
from top): freshly grated peeled whole ginger; one whole
dried (or fresh) c ayenne pepper ,  crushed; crushed cardamomseeds; and crushed coriander seeds (still in my spice
mortar). Becaus e I like this chutney to have extra heat for
grilled foods, I add either dried  chipotle or hot red pepper
flakes, but you can omit these if you wish. Use a small,
heavy spice mortar and pestle—mine is cast iron—or a
rolling pin to cru sh the seeds, an d a micro-grater to grate the
fresh gingerroot. 1. Using a vegetable peeler , remove the rind from the lemons, being careful
not to include th e white pith. Us ing a paring knife, cut away and discard the
white pi th from around the lemons. Finely chop the rind. Coarsely chop the
lemons, discarding the seeds. 2. In a non-reactive bowl, combine rind, lemons and salt. Cover with a
clean cloth and set aside in a cool place overnight. 3. In  a Maslin pan or lar ge sau cepan, combine macerated lem on mixture,
garlic, currants, apricots, lemon juice, vinegar , ginger , cayenne, cardamom,
coriander and hot pepper flake s. Bring to a light simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to m edium and stir in the brown sugar . Stir constantly until the
sugar is dissolved.4. Adjust the hea t to keep the mixture at a regular simmer and c ook, stirring
frequently , for 30 to 45 minutes or until the mixture becomes thick and
mounds on a wooden spoon. 5. M eanwhile, heat four 1-cup (250 mL) jars in boiling water , a nd scald the
lids, lifter , funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 6. S kim of f and discard any foam. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-i nch (5 mm)
headspace. Run a thin non-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to
allow air to esca pe, and add mo re hot chutney , if necessary , to leave a 1/4-
inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe r ims, top with flat lids and screw on metal
rings. Return jars to the hot water bath, topping up with h ot water if
necessary . Bring  to a full rolling boil and process jars for 10 minutes
( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 7. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . Use: Serve Lemon Chutney onc e it has “aged” for at least 2 months right
from th e jar with baked white fish, trout or salmon. Or mix 1 cup (250
mL) chutney with 3 tbsp (45 mL) chopped capers for a flavourful and
dif ferent tartar sauce. Mix with orange juice or an equal amount of
yogurt, and coat chicken before baking. Mix 1/4 cup (50 mL) chutney
with the  same amount of soy sa uce and use for stir-fried foods . Serve as acondiment for cooked chicken or cold cuts, and with a cheese platter or
over brie, cream cheese or goat cheese. l e m o n  c h u t n e y  d r e s s i n g
1/2 cup (125 mL) Lemon Chutney
2 gr een onions, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup (125 mL) olive oil
In a food processor or blender , combine Lemon Chutney and onions. Process until well blended. W it h the motor running, add olive oil through
the lid opening in a steady stream and process until combined and slightly
thickened. Cover and refrigerate dressing until needed, up to 1 week. l e m o n - s e a s o n e d  w h i t e f i s h
In this r ecipe, I have added the  chutney after the fish has been grilled. If
you like , spoon a couple of tab lespoons (25 mL) over the top of the fillets
after they have been turned once on the grill. Cod, per ch, catfish and
picker el work well in this r ecipe. Rimmed baking sheet or grilling basket, lightly oiled
Br oiler or barbecue grill pr eheated to br oil or high
MAKES 4 SER VINGS
4 whitefish fillets, about 1 inch/2.5 cm thick
1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
1/2 cup (125 mL) Lemon Chutney1. Using a paper towel, pat the fish dry . Arrange in single layer on prepared
baking s heet. B rush with olive oil. If using the barbecue, set fillets into
prepared grilling  basket. Broil in  the oven or over a medium-high flame on
the barbecue for 10 minutes or until the fish turns opaque and flakes easily
with a fork. 2. Arrange each fillet on a plate with grilled (or steamed) greens or rice and
top each with 2 tbsp (25 mL) Lemon Chutney . p r e s e r v e d  l e m o n s
Pr eserved lemons ar e essential ingr edients in Middle Eastern cooking, and
they ar e becoming mor e and mor e popular in North American dishes. If you
have them in your pantry , you will happily use them in last-minute dishes. 1 large, wide-mouth jar
MAKES 10 PRESER VED LEMONS
12 small Meyer or other thin-skinned organic lemons, well scrubbed
pickling salt 
1. Squeeze the juice from 2 lemons. Discard rinds and set juice aside. 2. S terilize a lar ge (8-cup/2 L) jar in boiling water , and scald t he lid, lifter
and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 3. Slit remaining  10 lemons: T rim and discard the top and bottom ends of
the lemo ns. Plac e lemons in a shallow dish so that they are sitting upright
on one of the flat cut ends. 4. Using  a paring knife, make a vertical cut through the centre, f rom the top
running three-quarters of the way to the bottom so that the 2 halves remain
attached at the b ase; do not cut all the way through. Rotate the  lemon and
make a vertical cut at a right a ngle to the first slit, from the top running
three-quarters o f the way to the bottom so that the 4 pieces still remain
attached at the base. Remove the seeds and set the lemon as ide. Repeat,
making the same slits on remain ing lemons. Add any juice from the dish to
the reserved juice. 5. Spoon  2 tbsp (25 mL) salt in to the bottom of the sterilized jar . Fill the
slits in each lemon with as much salt as the lemon will hold and pack 5 of
the s alted lemons into the sterilized jar . Pour reserved lemon juice over the
lemons and push lemons down using a wooden spoon. 6. Pack the rem aining salted lemons into the jar and pack down. Spoon 2
tbsp (25 mL) salt over the top of the lemons. 7. Secur e the lid and set the jar aside in a cool, dark place. After a few days,
check that the lemons are com pletely submer ged in lemon juice. If theyaren’ t, add freshly squeezed le mon juice until they are cove red. Allow
lemons to marinate for at least 6  weeks, shaking the jar from time to time. Rinse lemons before using in recipes. Store Preserved Lemons in the
refrigerator for up to 6 months after curing at room temperature. Use: Pre served lemons are meant to be used whole or chopped—the rind,
pith and  flesh are all edible. G reat with baked fish or chicken , especially
tagine d ishes (se e Preserved-Lemon Chicken T agine ) an d wi th veget ables,
rice and  couscous. Because of the salt, preserved lemons are best in
savoury dishes (remember to rinse well and add no extra salt to the
recipe), but I have used the m successfully in egg, bread and rice
puddings. p r e s e r v e d  l e m o n  c h i c k e n  t a g i n eFr om as long ago as the 13th century , fruited tagine stews featuring chicken
or la mb and crushed nuts, seeds, fruit and spices have been coo ked in open
fir es thr o ughout North Africa and the Middle East. This dish is f ragrant and
lightly r ed-tinged fr om the saffr on. Make sur e your tagine is flame-pr oof
befor e using it on dir ect heat. Use a Dutch oven if you do not have a tagine
or if your tagine is not flame-pr oof. I find that only a very small amount of pur e fr esh saffr on is as much of the
floral, very unique flavour that I can tolerate, and I have made it optional
in the r ecipe. Flame-pr oof tagine or Dutch oven
MAKES 4 SER VINGS
2 tbsp (25 mL) fr eshly squeezed lemon juice, optional
10 to 15 thr eads saffr on, optional
2 tbsp (25 mL) olive oil 1 onion, chopped
1 r ed or yellow bell pepper , chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1–1/2 cups (375 mL) chicken br oth
1 pr eserved lemon , rinsed and chopped
1/4 cup (50 mL) sliced dried apricots 2 large chicken br easts, cut in half
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped pitted gr een olives
1/4 cup (50 mL) gr ound almonds or pistachio nuts
1 tbsp (15 mL) Gr emolata  or chopped fr esh parsley
 
1. If using saf fr on: In a small bowl, sprinkle lemon juice over saf fron and
set aside for 1 hour or as long as overnight to soften. 2. In the bottom  of a flame-proo f tagine or Dutch oven, heat olive oil over
medium heat. Add onion and pepper and sauté for 5 minutes. Add garlic
and cook for 3 minutes, stirring frequently Add broth, preserved lemon,
apricots, soaked saf fron, if using, and chicken. Cover , reduce heat to lowand cook for 20 to 30 minutes or until chicken is tender and sauce is slightly
thick. 3. Add olives, almonds and Gremolata. Stir well; cover and cook for 5
minutes. l e m o n  c h u t n e y  c h i c k e n  t a g i n e
This top-of-the-stove version of tangine uses either the Lemon Chutney  or
Classic Dundee Marmalade  in place of pr eserved lemons. 2 cups (500 mL) chicken br oth
Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed saucepan with lid
MAKES 4 SER VINGS
1 cup (250 mL) Lemon Chutney
1/4 cup (50 mL) sliced gr een olives
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped fr esh parsley
2 tbsp (25 mL) chopped fr esh or egano
2 tbsp (25 mL) olive oil 1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp (5 mL) gr ound ginger
2 tsp (10 mL) gr ound cinnamon
1 r oasting chicken, 3 to 5 lb (1.5 to 2.2 kg)
sea salt and fr eshly gr ound pepper 
1. In a D utch oven lar ge enough  to hold the chicken, heat the olive oil over
medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft and golden in colour . Stir
garlic, ginger and cinnamon int o the onions and cook, stirring  constantly ,
for 1 minute. 2. Add chicken to the pot and s poon onion mixture over the to p and sides. Season w ith sal t and pepper to taste. Add broth and chutney . Increase the
heat to high and bring to a bo il. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low . Simmer gently for 1-1/2 hours, turning the chicken over on ce or twice
during cooking. 3. Add olives, parsley and oregano; cover and cook for 10 min utes or until
the c hicken is v ery tender . T ransfer chicken to a warmed platter and cover . Boil the liquid in  the pan for about 5 minutes or until slightly reduced. Skim
of f surplus fat and serve the sauce over the carved chicken or pass
separately . l e m o n  c u r d
If you like lemon, as I do, this is a pantry must-have. Our book club has an
annual Christma s cookie exchange, and we ar e always so thrilled when oneof our members makes a jar of Lemon Cur d for each of us. My jar is usually
gone by  New Y ear ’ s because i t can be used in so many easy desserts. Because this cr eamy spr ead is not water -or pr essur e-pr ocessed, the jars
need to be sterilized befor e f illing. Be sur e to stor e the cur d in the
r efrigerator . MAKES 6 CUPS (1.5 L)
6 eggs, lightly beaten
6 tbsp (90 mL) finely grated lemon rind
1 cup (250 mL) fr eshly squeezed lemon juice
1–1/2 cups (375 mL) butter , at r oom temperatur e
2 cups (500 mL) granulated sugar
 
1. Sterilize three 1-pint (2-cup/500 mL) jars in boiling water , and scald the
lid, lifter and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 2. In  the  top of a double boiler or a non-reactive bowl, combine eggs, lemon
rind and lemon juice. Set the pa n or bowl over a bottom pan of simmering
water (top pan s hould not touch the water). Add butter and sugar and stir
until bot h are dissolved. Cook, stirring constantly , for 15 to 20 minutes or
until the  mixtur e is thickened. T he mixture is thickened when it coats the
back of a meta l spoon and m ounds slightly . Be careful not to boil the
mixture because it will curdle. 3. F ill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. Run a thin non-
metallic utensil around the insid e of the jar to allow air to escape. Add more
hot curd, if nece ssary , to leave a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe rims, top
with flat  lids and screw on metal rings. Let cool on a wire rac k or towel. Label and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. Use: En joy Lemon Curd as a filling in cooked pastry shells; as a custard
substitute in dessert trifles; to replace whipped cream as a topping on fruit
or desserts; as a pie filling with egg white meringue.A double boiler is essential for this recipe because it gently heats the delicate egg protein and
thickens the curd without curdling it. Double boiler sets can be made of glass (above), stainless steel,
or ceramic with copper bottoms. If you don’ t have a double boiler , set a smaller saucepan or stainless
steel bowl over a lar ger saucepan. O r a n g e s
CITRUS PLANTS ARE EASIL Y HYBRIDIZED,  and  sometime in
antiquity the sweet orange (Citrus  x sinensis)  w as the result of a possible
cross be tween a pomelo and a tangerine. Except for the Seville orange,
which is used in marmalade, bitter oranges (Citrus aurantium)  are rarely
used in cooking. Good Pr eserving V arieties
Blood : Or iginating in Italy , there are three popular strains: T ar occo, Mor o
(usually found in North America ) and Sanguigno,  but it may be dif ficult to
know what variety is in stores. Rind is deep orange with a red or purple
blush; f lesh is dark (blood) red to purple, making them good for curds,
jams, marmalades and other preserves. The antioxidant anthocyanin is
responsible for the deep red co lour . California blood oranges peak from
January through late spring; T exas blood oranges peak in January and
February . Navel : H as seedless m eaty flesh in segments that separate easily . All navel
oranges have a r ound buttonlike  circle at the blossom end that resembles a
human navel. Thick rinds make them easy to peel and good for candied
peel. California navel oranges p eak in February . March and Ap ril; Florida
navel or anges, which have a h igher juice content and much thinner peel
than the California ones, peak in December and January .Seville : A var iety of the Chinese Bitter Orange  (Citrus aurantium),
Seville o ranges are tart, with a thick skin and lar ge seeds; naturally high in
pectin, which makes them perfect for marmalade and compotes. Peak from
mid-December to the end of February
V alencia:  S weet and juicy , V alencia is the  variety widely grown in Florid a.
Florida V alencia oranges peak in March and April. c l a s s i c  d u n d e e  m a r m a l a d e
In my view , the bitter Seville o ranges  (Citrus aurantium) that appear in
markets just befor e Christmas a nd stay for a short month or two make the
finest or ange marmalade in the Scottish tradition. Be warned: this is very
close to the trad itional marmalade method and not a quick technique, but
it’ s not difficult—and you will be well r ewar ded. MAKES 8 CUPS (2 L)
6 Seville oranges (about 2 lb/1 kg)
1 lemon
8 cups (2 L) water
7 cups (1.75 L) granulated sugar
1. In a sink full of warm, soap y water , scrub oranges and lemon using a
vegetable brush  to remove any wax film. Rinse well. Cut oranges andlemons in half crosswise. Using a hand or electric citrus juicer , squeeze
orange a nd lemo n juice. Strain into a Maslin pan or canning ke ttle, saving
the seeds and rinds. 2. On a 10-inch (25 cm) square of double-thickness cheesecloth, place seeds
and membranes. Bring up sides  and tie the top with cotton string. Place in
pan with juice. 3. On a cutting board, stack 3 o range rind halves together and cut in half. Keeping the 3 rind quarters sta cked, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch (5 mm)
thick strips. Add to the pan along with any accumulated juices. Repeat with
remaining orange and lemon rind halves. 4. Add water to the pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to
medium and stir in sugar , 1 cup (250 mL) at a time, stirring to dissolve
before a dding t he next cup. Boil lightly for 2–1/2 to 3 hours or until
thickened and setting point (see note, next page) is reached, stirring
occasionally . During the last 1/2 hour , skim of f and discard the foam that
rises to the top. 5. M eanwhile, sterilize eight 1-c up (250 mL) jars in boiling water , and scald
the lids, lifter , funnel and tongs. ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 6. F ill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. Run a thin non-
metallic utensil around the insid e of the jar to allow air to escape. Add more
hot marmalade, if necessary , to  leave a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe
rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to the hot water
bath, top ping up  with hot water , if necessary . Bring to a full rolling boil and
process jars for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 7. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year .Setting Point
Marmalade has reached the setting point when a candy
thermometer reaches the jelly stage at 222°F (1 10°C). If you don’ t have a thermometer: T o test for setting point,
remove the marmalade from the heat. Place a plate in the
freezer for 2 m inutes. Drop a spoonful of hot marmalade
onto the chilled plate. Return t he plate  to the freezer for 1 minute. Push the spot
of m armalade with a fork. If  the surface wrinkles, the
marmalade is set and ready to p ack into hot, sterilized jars.If the marmalade is not set, ret urn to a boil and test at 3-
minute intervals, using a new chilled plate each time. dundee almond cake
This is an unu sual cake in t hat ther e is no grain flour as the main
ingr edient. For a cake that r elie s on nuts for its structur e, it is surprisingly
light. 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan, base lined with par chment and sides lightly butter ed
Pr eheat oven to 350°F (180°C)
MAKES 1 CAKE
1 tbsp (15 mL) Anisette or other anise-flavour ed liqueur , optional
1/4 cup (50 mL) icing sugar
6 sprigs sweet cicely or other fr esh herb, optional
1–1/4 cups (300 mL) blanched almonds
4 eggs, separated
1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar , divided
1/4 cup (50 mL) chopped fr esh sweet cicely grated rind and juice of 3
oranges (about 1–1/4 cups/300 mL juice and 3 tbsp/45 mL grated
rind)
 
1. Using a food processor , chop the almonds until coarse. At this stage, the
almonds should not be ground or finely chopped. Remove al monds to a
separate bowl. W ipe out food processor bowl and process the 1 cup (250
mL) sugar with the sweet cicely until the sweet cicely is fine. T ransfer the
herbed sugar to a bowl. 2. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with 1/2 cup (125 mL) of the herbed sugar
until thic k. W ith  the motor runn ing, add yolk mixture to the food processor
through the opening in the lid, processing until the mixture is thick and
smooth. T ransfe r the mixture to a lar ge bowl and stir in orange  rind. If themixture is too thick, stir in 1 or 2 tablespoons (15 or 25 mL) orange juice
until it is the consistency of thick cake batter . 3. In  a separate bowl, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Spr inkle 1 tbsp
(15 mL)  of the herbed sugar over and beat until the peaks hold their shape. Fold hal f of the meringue into t he almond mixture until just ev enly mixed. Quickly fold the other half into the mixture, being careful not to overmix in
order to keep the air in the whites. 4. Gently spoon the batter into th e prepared pan. Bake in prehea ted oven for
35 minu tes or until set in the centre and a golden colour . Le t cool on a
cooling rack until the sides h ave shrunk away from the pa n. Remove
springform pan sides and transfer to a serving plate. 5. M eanwhile, make Orange Sa uce. In a saucepan, combine o range juice
and remaining herbed sugar . Bri ng to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower
the heat and boil lightly for 10 minutes or until thickened slightly . Remove
from hea t and stir in the liqueur , if using. Drizzle orange sauce over the top
of the cake and l et stand for 20 minutes or longer before serving . Or make a
puddle o f orange sauce on each serving plate and arrange a slice of cake on
top. Dust with powdered sugar and garnish with an herb sprig, if using.c a n d i e d  c i t r u s  p e e l
Simmering citru s peel in a simple syrup made fr om granulated sugar and
water is  one of the oldest form s of pr eserving the unique fra grance and
taste of citr ons, oranges and lemons. This method can be used for any thick-
rind citrus fruit or for fr esh gingerr oot. The peel—the rind and pith—simmers slowly in heavy simple syrup that
turns it to candy , but first it is s immer ed thr ee times in salted w ater . T riple-
boiling the peel helps r emove some bitterness fr om the inner pith, but if you
include the pith, this confection will still be bitter -sweet and will dance on
your tongue long after the candy has disappear ed.If you like sweet and salty toge ther in the same bite, try r olling the sugar -
dusted a nd part ly dry citrus strips in coarse sea salt, but be car eful not to
load it on. Y ou want just enough to give a slight hit of salt with the sugar . If you pr efer to candy only the z est (rind), use a vegetable peeler to r emove
1/2-inch (1 cm)-wide strips of zest fr om the fruit without any  of the pith
attached to it. Boil zest-only strips once in salted water and then  pr oceed to
step 3. MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (500 mL)
2 navel oranges
1-1/2 tsp (7 mL) salt, divided
1–1/4 cups (300 mL) granulated sugar + 1/4 cup (50 mL) appr ox, for
coating
1–1/4 cups (300 mL) water
 
1. W ash oranges. T rim away th e ends of the oranges. Cut the oranges into
quarters and remove the inner  flesh sections, leaving the rind and pith
intact. S et the inner flesh aside f or another use, such as a fruit salad. Cut the
peel into strips that are roughly 1/4 inch (5 mm) by 2 inches (5 cm). 2. In  a saucepan , combine peel strips with 2 cups (500 mL) cold water (the
strips should be generously cove red). Add 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt and bring to aboil over medium heat. Boil g ently for 2 minutes. Strain, dis carding the
water . Repeat this step 2 more times. Rinse well with cold water . 3. In  a heavy-bottomed saucepa n, combine sugar and water . Bri ng to a boil
over medium heat, stirring con stantly to dissolve the sugar . A dd drained
peel stri ps, redu ce heat and simmer gently for 1 hour . Stir the strips once to
distribute them evenly in the sugar water but after that, leave them to
simmer , without stirring. Check on the pan occasionally to ma ke sure that
the syru p is simmering gently and not scorching. A heavy–botto med pan is
essential. After 1 hour , check on the pan every few moments. The water
should b e almost evaporated and the strips should be translucent and soft
but not mushy . 4. Meanwhile, prepare parchment or waxed paper by sprinklin g it with 3
tablespoons (45 mL) granulated sugar . Remove the pan from t he heat and
using tongs, transfer the candied strips from the syrup to the sugared paper . T oss we ll to coat the strips and s prinkle with more sugar if need ed to evenly
coat them. Use a fork to separate the strips. Let cool and dry overnight on
the paper over a wire rack. Store in an airtight container in a cool place for
1 w eek or pack into freezer containers, seal, label and store for up to 9
months. Use: Dip the ca ndied peel in ch ocolate and use as a sweet confection; use
to decorate cakes or muf fins, or chop and add to the batter of baked
goods. I have used peel as swizzle sticks for cocktails, and it i s especially
nice with rich chocolate mousse or brownies. s p i c e d  p i c k l e d  o r a n g e s
I lik e the unusual sweet-tart flav our and decorative uses for this  condiment. It c omplements game meats, pork (especially ham), turkey and sharp
cheddar cheeses. This r ecipe is easy , and it uses the whole slice d fruit with
only the ends an d seeds r emoved. I’ve tried grapefruit but find that they ar e
just too bitter in this r ecipe. W i de-mouth pint (2-cup/500 mL) jars ar e bestfor p acking the slices, and sma ller oranges work better than the lar gest
ones. Use a wide-bottomed canning kettle or saucepan (not a Maslin pan)
because the slices will have to b e boiled in batches—the wider the pan, the
less time it will take. This is best if left to infuse for a month or so. I am
always surprise d at the range of flavours that this r ecipe  generates. Sometimes the r esult is very sweet; other times it is very tar t because it
depends on the variety of oranges used. MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS (2 L) 6 oranges
2 cups (500 mL) white wine vinegar
1 cup (250 mL) br own sugar
1 tsp (5 mL) salt 4 allspice berries
2 cloves
2 cardamom pods, crushed
1 cinnamon stick, 3 inches (8 cm)
1 star anise
1 tsp (5 mL) pink or gr een pepper corns
1 tsp (5 mL) coriander seeds
 1. Scrub the ora nges following directions on Citrus Fruits . T rim away and
discard or reserve the ends for another use. Slice the tri mmed fruit
crosswise into 3/8-inch (1 cm) s lices. T ry to keep the slices the same width
and thinner rather than thicker . Y ou should get 4, possibly 5 slices from
each orange depending on the  size. Remove and discard seeds and set
orange slices aside. 2. Heat five 1-pint (2-cup/500 mL) jars in boiling water , and scald the lids,
lifter , funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 3. In a w ide-bottomed canning kettle or saucepan, combine vinegar , brown
sugar an d salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constan tly until the
sugar is dissolved and the brine is boiling rapidly Add allspice, cloves,
cardamom, cinn amon, star anise, peppercorns, coriander seeds and 8 orange
slices or  enough  to simmer cov ered by the brine. Boil the orange slices,
turning once or twice with tongs, until the peel is soft but not mushy . 4. Using  tongs, fill a hot jar wit h slices, slightly twisting them so that they
fit the jar . Leave a 1/4-inch (5  mm) headspace. Run a thin non-metallic
utensil around the inside of the jar to allow air to escape. Pour hot brine
over slic es, leaving a 1/4-inch (5  mm) headspace. W ipe rim, top  with a flat
lid and screw on metal ring. Return jar to the hot water bath. 5. Mean while, a dd another layer of orange slices to the boiling brine and
repeat step 4. 6. W hen all the jars have been packed and capped, top up wate r bath with
hot wate r if necessary , bring to  a full rolling boil and process jars for 10
minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). Re move canner lid and wait
5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or rack to cool comple tely . Check
seals, label and store in a cool place for up to 1 year . Use: I like to u se Spiced Pickled Oranges with baked ham. S et a cooked
or u ncooked ham in a baking d ish (keep the baking instructions from the
packaging). Usi ng tongs, lift the Spiced Pickled Orange slices out of the
jar and place all over the ham, securing with toothpicks. In a saucepan,
combine strained brine with 1/4 cup (50 mL) orange juice. Bring to a boil,reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes or until slightly thickened. Pour
over the ham and bake according to the instructions on the packaging.E x o t i c / T r o p i c a l  F r u i t
WITH THE GLOBAL MARKET VIR TUALL Y ON OUR
DOORSTEP ,  exotic or tropical fruit is not quite as mysterious as when our
grandmothers m ay have cherished and preserved it. In fact, it i s becoming
more and more common and widely available, so I’ve placed this category
of p reserved fruit here as a salute to an age when tropical fruit was a
novelty in Europe and the Northern Hemisphere—a rare and treasured
extravagance on winter tables. T echnically , “tr opical” means the area of earth between the T ropic of
Cancer a t the northern latitude of 23.4° and the T ropic of Capr icorn at the
southern latitude of 23.4° (south of the equator). T ropical frui ts are those
edible f ruits that originated in that zone called “the tropics”. They were
considered to be “exotic” because they were unknown to Europeans until
refrigerated ship ping made their delivery viable in quantity . These fruits
may now  be grown in countries  outside the tropics, but have one thing in
common: they do not tolerate frost and so are only grown i n frost-free
regions of the world. There are hundreds of edible tropical/exotic fruits and for most North
Americans these fruits arrive by ship or airplane from frost-free southern
US states, Mexico, South America or Asia. Pur chasing/Storing
T ropical fruit for sale in northern markets may have been picked when still
green. T ry to find tropical fruit t hat is ripe because most will not sweeten as
they ripen. Store in a cool place and use as soon as possible. Good W ithAromatic herbs such as basil, ro semary , sage and thyme, and
curry spices. A variety of cheeses includi ng soft and medium-hard
varieties. Sweet seasonin gs such as van illa, ginger , cinnamon and
nutmeg. All types of fish, seafood and poultry . W ith other fruit or greens in salads.M a n g o e s
AN EVERGREEN TREE  that is indigenous to the East Indies and
Malaysia, mango (Mangifera indica)  is one of the e arliest known tropical
fruits. F lavour and sweetness vary according to variety . Mangoes are eaten
fresh, bl ended i nto drinks and chopped raw and added to salsa with lime
juice and hot chi le peppers. Mangoes have always been preserve d in pickles
and chutney , the Miscut pickle from Goa being particularly popular . Good Pr eserving V arieties
The following is a list of fibre-free varieties that are excellent for jams and
other preserves. Ataulfo:  Sweet, richly fl avoured; creamy in texture, making it good for s oft
jams and sauces. Kent:  F lesh is smooth and creamy in texture and soft when ripe; swe et and
rich-tasting for chutney , salsa and relish. T ommy Atkins:  Firmer than the  above varieties but juicy and sweet; holds
its shape in preserves. Pur chasing/Storing
Colour is not always an indication of ripeness since there are many mango
varieties, rangin g from green to yellow-orange to red and red-p urple. Hold
the fruit  in your hand and press gently to determine if there is a slight give. Ripen in  a paper bag at room temperature, away from sunlight , and check
daily . Use immediately once ripened. Good W ithGreen citrus herbs such as rosemary , lemon thyme or sage. Sweet se asonings such as cinnamon, ginger , cloves, nutmeg,
vanilla, almond. Fresh cheeses such as cottage cheese, Neufchâtel, goat
cheese. Other fruit, such as raspberries, peaches, apricots, nectarines. T oasted almonds, pecans and walnuts; raisins; white
chocolate. Moist, soft-textured fish such as catfish, mackerel, tilapia. Pr eparation
W ash th e fruit in warm water to which a drop of food-safe deter gent has
been added. Rinse well and pat dry . How to Dice a Mango:
1. Slice of f the hips or bulges on either side of the lar ge flat stone or pit in the centre of the mango. 2. Place each half on the cutting board, flesh side facing up. Using a paring knife, cut the flesh into
1/2-inch (1 cm) cubes in a criss-cross pattern. Make the cuts right down to the skin. 3. T urn the diced mango half inside out. The cubes will stand up for easy trimming away from the
skin. 4. Cut the cubes away from the skin and into a bowl or canning pan. Repeat with the second mango
half. Remove the skin from the remaining centre section (with stone in it) and carve the flesh away
from the stone (the flesh will not come away in perfect cubes). How to Slice a Mango:  U se a vegetabl e peeler to remove the skin. Hold
the man go in one hand and, using a paring knife, cut out slices down to the
stone. p a n - s e a r e d  m o r o c c a n  c a u l i f l o w e r
The bril liant colour of the chut ney makes this dish stand out on the table. It’ s a gr eat side dish for both vegetarian and meat-based menus.MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (500 mL)
1 head cauliflower , trimmed
3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil, divided
3/4 cup (175 mL) water
1/2 cup (125 mL) Scarlet Mango Chutney
 
1. U sing a paring knife, separate the florets from the core of the cauliflower
and cut the lar ge r ones into 4 pieces and the smaller florets in half. Heat 2
tbsp (25 mL) of the oil in a wok over high heat. Add cauliflower pieces in a
single layer , flat side down. Cook for 2 to 4 minutes or until well browned
on the bottom. T ransfer to a bow l. Add remaining oil to the wok and cook
remaining cauliflower in the same way . 2. When  second  batch is brown ed, return first batch of caulifl ower to the
wok. Add water , stir , cover and reduce heat to low . Cook for 6 to 8 minutes
or u ntil stems ar e tender . Using a slotted spoon, remove cauliflower to the
bowl and toss with chutney
s c a r l e t  m a n g o  c h u t n e y
I wo nder if mo st people, when they think of mango chutney (if at all),
imagine an orange-yellow , soft and piquant pr eserve that smoothes out the
hot jolt of curry dishes. While th is chutney is piquant enough to  stand up to
the s piciest of dishes, it is not the colour one would expect: it is flaming r ed. I love the beet/mango combinat ion and the way the cider vinegar , candied
ginger , turmeric  and pickling spice combine to transport one back to
Bombay and early twentieth-century England, with its curries and chutneys. I ch allenge you to try this s carlet version befor e going back to the
traditional, glow ing orange mixtur e, but if you r eally must h ave yellow
chutney , simply substitute grated butternut or acorn squash for the beets. MAKES ABOUT 8+ CUPS (2+ L)4 to 6 mangoes (about 4 lb/2 kg)
1 cup (250 mL) raisins
1/2 cup (125 mL) fr eshly squeezed lime juice
1–1/4 cups (300 mL) apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup (50 mL) apple juice
3/4 cup (175 mL) packed br own sugar
1 tbsp (15 mL) gr ound turmeric
1 tbsp (15 mL) pickling salt
2 tbsp (25 mL) Classic Pickling Spice Blend  or commer cial pickling
spice, wrapped in cheesecloth
4 cups (1 L) shr edded beets
2 cups (500 mL) chopped onions
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped candied ginger
 
1. Dice mangoes . Y ou should hav e about 6 cups (1.5 L). T ransfer mango to
a lar ge bowl and combine with raisins and lime juice. 2. Heat five 1-pint (500 mL) jar s in boiling water , and scald the lids, lifter ,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 3. In  a Maslin pan or canning kettle, combine vinegar , apple juice and
brown sugar . Bring to a boil  over high heat, stirring cons tantly Add
turmeric and salt. Stir well and  hang the pickling spice bag so that it is
immersed in the boiling mixture. Add mango mixture, beets, onions and
ginger . S tir and bring back to a boil. Reduce heat and boil gently stirring
occasionally for 30 to 45 minutes or until vegetables are soft. 4. Fill hot jars, leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. Run a thin, non-
metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to allow air to escape, and add
more ho t chutne y if necessary to  leave a 1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe
rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return jars to the hot water
bath, top ping up with hot water if necessary Bring to a full roll ing boil and
process jars for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ).5. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for up
to 1 year . Use: Th e beets in this chutney make it more savoury than traditional
mango chutney , so it can be used liberally with grilled roasted meats,
hearty winter casseroles and stir-fried dishes.P i n e a p p l e s
NA TIVE T O BRAZIL, THE  PINEAPPLE (ANANAS COMOSUS)  is
one of the most delicious and widely available of all the tro pical fruits. Older va rieties h ave sharp, spiny leaves; they have now been bred to have
smooth leaves, which makes cultivation and use easier . Good Pr eserving V arieties
Cayenne:  Lar ge, elongated fruit with light yellow scales. Smooth Cayenne
has a relatively smooth crown of leaves. Flesh is deep yellow , sweet and
juicy . Cayenne pineapples are lar gely grown in Hawaii; peak season is April
and May . Red Spanish:  The  most wide ly available variety , scales are a deep orange
and leav es are hard and spiky . Flesh is white to light yellow  and not as
sweet as  Cayenne. Grown mostly in Honduras, Costa Rica, Puerto Rico,
Mexico and Central America. Peak seasons for Caribbean pineapples are
December through February and August through September . Pur chasing/Storing
1 me dium pineapple weighs abo ut 4 lb (2 kg) and yields about 4 cups (1 L)
1/2-inch (1 cm) diced pineapple (more if coarsely chopped). Pineapples shou ld be firm and  free of soft spots or bruises. Fresh, ripe
pineapples are fragrant, without a trace of fermentation. Look fo r fruits that
are o range or re d, and if there are only green pineapples available, choose
one that has star ted to ripen at the base, because it will finish ri pening once
you get it home.T o ripen a pine apple, turn it on its leaf end and let it sta nd at room
temperature for a few days unti l the colour has turned to a dee p orange or
yellow and the aroma is fragrant. Good W ith
Spicy herbs such as basil, bay , thyme, chervil, tarragon,
ginger , mustard. Sweet seasonings such as cinnamon, licorice, cloves,
nutmeg, vanilla. Creamy cheeses such as Camembert, Danish blue,
gor gonzola. Other fruit, such as raspberries, apples, apricots, peaches,
nectarines, plums, strawberries, cherries, citrus. T oasted pecans, almonds and walnuts; raisins; chocolate. Chicken, veal, pork. Pr eparation
T wist or cut of f the leaves (or crown) and discard or use them as a centrepiece decoration. For wedges, cut the pineapple in half down the centre.Lay one half on the cutting surface, cut side down. Cut in half. Cut one of the halves in half again so
that you have 4 wedges. T rim away the inner core and outer scales and set the wedges aside. Repeat
with the other half. For slices, lay the pineapple on its side on a cutting surface. Cut crosswise slices to the desired width
as you would a loaf of bread. Using a paring knife, cut away and discard the outside scales and the inside core.Use slices whole or chop into 1- or 1/2-inch (2.5 or 1 cm) dice as directed by the recipe. One
pineapple will yield about eight 1/2-inch (1 cm) slices and 4 cups (1 L) 1/2-inch (1 cm) dice. p i n e a p p l e  m u s t a r d
Every time I make this delicious condiment, it r eaffirms my love affair with
homemade pr es erves. Ther e is nothing like this in a stor e. Th e flavour is
rich and  piquan tly sweet-sour . Use it as you would any mustar d—on its own
as a  glaze, as a seasoning in sa uces and in small quantities on  ham, chops
and other grilled meats and vegetables. In my opinion, it is not hot, but you
can use mor e or fewer cayenne peppers to suit your taste. MAKES 6 CUPS (1.5L)
2–1/2 cups (625 mL) white wine vinegar
2 cups (500 mL) granulated sugar
1 cup (250 mL) lightly packed br own sugar
1 pineapple, cut into 1/2-inch (1 cm) dice (about
4 cups/1 L)
1 cup (250 mL) golden raisins
1 onion, chopped
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped dates grated rind and juice of 2 lemons
1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped candied ginger
2 dried cayenne peppers, crushed, or to taste
1 tbsp (15 mL) mustard seeds1 tbsp (15 mL) mustard powder
1 tbsp (15 mL) gr ound turmeric
1 tsp (5 mL) salt
1 tsp (5 mL) gr ound cinnamon
1/4 tsp (2 mL) gr ound nutmeg
1/4 tsp (2 mL) gr ound cloves
 
1. Heat six 1-cup (250 mL) jars  in boiling water , and scald the lids, lifter ,
funnel and tongs ( Boiling W ater Method, Step by Step ). 2. In a M aslin pa n or canning kettle, combine vinegar and sugars. Bring to a
boil ove r high heat, stirring cons tantly Add pineapple (and any accumulated
juice), raisins, onion, dates, lemon rind, lemon juice, ginger , cayenne
peppers, mustard seeds, mustard powder , turmeric, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg
and clov es. Reduce heat and s immer gently stirring occasionally for 60
minutes. Mixture will be reduced in liquid and thickened considerably
3. Ladle some of the hot chunky mixture into 2 or 3 hot jars, leaving a 1/4-
inch (5 mm) headspace. Run a th in non-metallic utensil around the inside of
the jar to allow air to escape. Ad d more hot mustard, if necessary to leave a
1/4-inch (5 mm) headspace. W ipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on
metal rings. Return jars to the hot water bath. 4. U sing a food processor or blender , purée the remaining mixture until it is
smooth. Ladle into remaining j ars, leaving a 1/4-inch (5 mm)  headspace. Run a thin non-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to allow air to
escape. Add more hot mustard , if necessary to leave a 1/4-inch (5 mm)
headspace. W ipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings. Return
jars to the hot water bath topping up with hot water if necessary Bring to a
full rolling boil and process ja rs for 10 minutes ( Boiling W ater Method,
Step by Step ). 5. Remo ve cann er lid and wait 5 minutes before removing jars t o a towel or
rack to cool com pletely . Check seals, label and store in a cool place for upto 1 year .P o m e g r a n a t e s
THE FR UIT O NCE CALLED  “APPLE OF CAR THAGE”  by Pliny  has
been naturalized  all over the Mediterranean. W ith many biblical references
and documented use by Moses, Solomon, the prophet Mohammed and other
ancients, the pomegranate (Punica granatum)  h as a long an d symbolic
history . In fact, it is thought that Granada in Spain was named after the fruit. Sirop de Grenadine, or grenade , as it is know in France, is made from the
juice of pomegranates, as is pomegranate molasses. Pur chasing/Storing
Select firm and heavy fruits that appear to have ripened fully yellow or deep
red. Unp eeled p omegranates wil l keep in a cool place or the refrigerator for
a few weeks.
_OceanofPDF.com_Preserving_-_Pat_Crocker.txt
Summarize the following text section accurately and concisely. Maintain specific details and numerical information, and use anti-repetition mechanisms:

        Pour hot water over cubes, leaving a 1-inch (2. 5 cm) headspace. Run a thin non-metallic utensil around the inside of the jar to allow air to
escape. Add hot water, if necessary, to leave a 1-inch (2. 5 cm)  headspace. W ipe se aling ed ge of jars with a clean, damp, lint-free cloth. Position flat
lids over the tops of jars and hand-tighten screw bands. 4. P lace jars in  pr essur e canner:  Use  a Pressure Canner accordi ng to the
chart below for Dial-Gauge or follow manufacturer ’ s instructions. 5. Cool, Label and Stor e:  T urn of f heat; let pressure return to zero
naturally. Once gauge shows 0 pressure, wait 2 minutes then open the vent. Unlock and remove canner lid. W ait 10 minutes then lift jars from canner
and place on a clean towel or ra ck. Do not re-tighten screw ba nds. Let the
jars cool  to room temperature. T his may take from 12 to 24 hours. Remove
and store screw bands. Check lid seals ( Pressure Canner Method ). W ipe and
label sealed jars. Store in a cool, dark place. m a p l e  n u t  s q u a s h
Y ou will love this side dish—it  is perfect for Thanksgiving or  Christmas
dinner because it can be made in advance and popped into the oven to heat
while th e turkey  is being carved. W ith several cups of squash (you can also
used cooked pumpkin) in the fr eezer or pantry, this dish is very easy. Double the r ecipe for a lar ger amount, but for a holiday me al at which
several v egetable dishes ar e being served, count on this r ecipe serving 6 to
8 people. As a n al ternative to butter, I hav e tossed the squash with 1 cup (250 mL) of
Crabapple Chutney. Us e applesauce or any savoury  chutney in this book as
an a lternative. Use Hubbar d, Butternut or Pink Banana squ ash in this
r ecipe. 13- by 9-inch (3 L) baking pan, lightly oiled
Pr eheat oven to 350°F (180°C)
MAKES 4 SER VINGS (SEE ABOVE)
4 cups (1 L) cooked squash cubes, drained if canned, thawed if fr ozen
1 cup (250 mL) Crabapple Chutney
3 tbsp (45 mL) maple syrup
1/2 tsp (2 mL) gr ound cinnamon
1/4 tsp (1 mL) gr ound nutmeg sea salt and pepper
1/2 cup (125 mL) chopped toasted pecans or walnuts
In prepa red bak ing pan, combine squash, chutney maple syrup, cinnamon
and nutmeg. Grind some salt and pepper over top. Cover with a lid or foil
and heat in pre heated oven for 30 to 45 minutes. Garnish w ith toasted
pecans. p i c k l e d  b a b y  v e g e t a b l e s
Some m arket gar deners gr ow mini vegetables for the r estaurant trade and
may have surplus available at peak times. Look for baby carr ots and
parsnips and the mini varieties of squash (pattypan and cr ookneck),
eggplant, turnip and pearl onions. MAKES 8 CUPS (2 L)
3 lb (1. 5 kg) tiny whole vegetables
1/2 cup (125 mL) coarse salt
3 cups (750 mL) white vinegar1 cup (250 mL) granulated sugar
4 to 8 sprigs fr esh thyme, marjoram or or egano
4 to 16 small hot r ed peppers
4 to 8 star anise
1. In a lar ge saucepan, cover vegetables with water. Bring to a boil over
high he at. Reduce heat and s immer gently for 5 minutes. Drain and
immerse in cold water for 5 minutes. Drain well and pat dry
2. In  a lar ge ston e crock or non- reactive container, dissolve salt in 8 cups (2
L) water. Add vegetables. Cover with a clean towel and let stand for 3
hours. 3. M eanwhile, heat eight 1-cup (250 mL) or four 1-pint (2-cup/500 mL) jars
in b oiling water (see page xx), and scald the lids, lifter, funnel and tongs
(see page xx).
Wipe rims, top with flat lids and screw on metal rings.
How should you prepare the jars before filling them with the chutney or relish?
Store in a cool place for up to 1 year.
What is the recommended storage time for the preserved lemons?
Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.
What is the recommended storage time for the pickled citrus fruits?
Select firm and heavy fruits that appear to have ripened fully yellow or deep red.
How should you prepare the pomegranates before preserving them?
Bring to a full rolling boil and process jars for 10 minutes.
What is the recommended processing time for the citrus fruits in a water bath?
Boil the equipment in boiling water, and then scald the lids, lifter, funnel, and tongs.
What is the recommended method for sterilizing the equipment?