Chef Nicolas Delaroque earned a Michelin star for his eponymous restaurant, but one global pandemic later he’s focused on fabulous brioche feuilletée; pâté en croûte studded with pork, butternut squash, and smoked eel; and an eye-catching ​​seafood aspic made with hunks of lobster, red snapper, mussels, and a bouillabaisse gelée. Pop by for a light lunch, but be warned some pastries may be sold out by midday.