diff --git "a/Databank Botato.csv" "b/Databank Botato.csv" --- "a/Databank Botato.csv" +++ "b/Databank Botato.csv" @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -text +text, """How To Grow Potatoes In A Greenhouse You can easily grow potatoes in a greenhouse so you can harvest your favorite varieties all year round. Plus, growing potatoes in a greenhouse, hoop house, or cold frame not only keeps potato plants safe from frost but also numerous pests. You can grow potatoes in raised beds, grow bags, or pots, so you can even do it in small spaces. @@ -140,7 +140,7 @@ Greenhouse-grown potatoes are best eaten the day they’re harvested, but they c Brush off any remaining soil after curing. Don’t wash the potatoes unless you are ready to cook them. Washing them may reduce their shelf life. Place them in a dark and humid place with a temperature of around 3-4°C. -Also, don’t put your potatoes near apples to prevent them from spoiling. Apples contain ethylene gas which makes them ripen faster. Don’t refrigerate your potatoes.""" +Also, don’t put your potatoes near apples to prevent them from spoiling. Apples contain ethylene gas which makes them ripen faster. Don’t refrigerate your potatoes.""", "HOW TO GET EARLY POTATOES IN THE GREENHOUSE At one time the potato was something you would feed the pigs with, but today it is almost like gold, and we fight so valiantly to get the gold and be among the first to get it. You can easily join this fight when you have a greenhouse. @@ -225,7 +225,7 @@ The potato sort determines the usage The potatoes that most of us know are the potatoes called table potatoes. -As previously mentioned, there are many potato varieties. And some sorts are more suitable for mash or backed potatoes compared to those you use for boiling or roasted potatoes. If you make backed potatoes, it is best if they are not too firm. And if it is for mashed potatoes, they must be able to become mushy after they are boiled." +As previously mentioned, there are many potato varieties. And some sorts are more suitable for mash or backed potatoes compared to those you use for boiling or roasted potatoes. If you make backed potatoes, it is best if they are not too firm. And if it is for mashed potatoes, they must be able to become mushy after they are boiled.", "What are the Ideal Conditions for Greenhouse Tomatoes? Tomatoes grow in relatively warm temperatures, making them the perfect greenhouse crop. Compared to outdoor tomato cultivation, growing in a controlled greenhouses increases yields and quality, reduces pests and diseases, and increases the growing season. Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables (well, fruit…) in the world. So, it’s no surprise that they’re one of the most common crops in commercial horticulture. In fact, in 2020, over 185 million kgs were grown globally, on over 5 million hectares. @@ -333,7 +333,7 @@ High humidity and wet plants become increasingly problematic the more crowded th So, in order to be able to control conditions, it’s important to have enough space between plants. -Of course, this can work both ways. Proper dehumidification reduces the overall humidity level and provides powerful air circulation, allowing you to decrease the space between plants. It’s all about creating the right balance for your growing facility." +Of course, this can work both ways. Proper dehumidification reduces the overall humidity level and provides powerful air circulation, allowing you to decrease the space between plants. It’s all about creating the right balance for your growing facility.", "How Long Does it Take to Grow Tomatoes? We’re sometimes asked how long it takes to grow tomatoes. It’s a good question, so we thought we’d take the opportunity to answer it here. With a Click & Grow smart garden, you can produce a mini tomato harvest starting from 98 days after planting. @@ -413,7 +413,7 @@ Did you know that tomatoes are made up of about 95% water? They’re undeniably Tomatoes are also a great source of dietary fiber. An average sized tomato provides you with 1.5 grams of fiber. In addition to that, tomatoes are natural sources of vitamin C, vitamin K, potassium and folate. -Studies suggest that tomatoes may improve heart health. An example of this is how tomato products can fight inflammation and signs of oxidative stress. There’s also research that suggests tomatoes promote skin health. For instance, tomato-based foods that are rich in lycopene may protect against sunburn." +Studies suggest that tomatoes may improve heart health. An example of this is how tomato products can fight inflammation and signs of oxidative stress. There’s also research that suggests tomatoes promote skin health. For instance, tomato-based foods that are rich in lycopene may protect against sunburn.", "General Advice Potatoes always do best in full sun. They are aggressively rooting plants, and we find that they will produce the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil with a PH of 5.0 to 7.0. Fortunately potatoes are very adaptable and will almost always produce a respectable crop, even when the soil conditions and growing seasons are less than perfect. @@ -446,7 +446,7 @@ At Seed Savers Exchange. we are able to store potatoes well into the spring in Saving Seed Stock Home gardeners can save seed for several generations. Save the very best potatoes for planting. You may find that after several years the size begins to decrease; this is typical. Potatoes are very susceptible to viruses. If you are looking for maximum yields it is best to start with fresh, USDA Certified Seed Stock every year. -In collaboration with University of Wisconsin-Madison researchers, SSE is working to eradicate viruses from heritage potatoes in order to safely preserve potato genetic diversity and to offer high quality seed potatoes." +In collaboration with University of Wisconsin-Madison researchers, SSE is working to eradicate viruses from heritage potatoes in order to safely preserve potato genetic diversity and to offer high quality seed potatoes.", "How Long Do Potatoes Take To Grow? It’s safe to say that growers love to watch their crops grow. We wait patiently for each sprout to mature and produce perfectly ripe fruit or vegetables. But when it comes to root vegetables, we can’t just watch and wait. We have to time the harvest just right. Pull your produce too early, and you’re stuck with unripe, tiny veggies. Wait too long and you take a risk of the crop being overripe – or even beginning to rot underground. @@ -541,7 +541,7 @@ Covering your young potatoes at planting can help them become established as wel Using fertilizer will also help your plants grow well and increase their yield. You should add a suitable potato fertiliser when planting your seed potatoes. If you feel they are lacking in size later in the year – say at flowering – you can add more if you feel they need it. The fertiliser can be homemade fertiliser or bought in. A note about adding a large amount of fertiliser is that it can extend the growing season of the potato. So although your potatoes will be bigger, they can take longer to mature. Summary -Before you put any potatoes in the ground you should have the season ahead planned from planting to harvest. You should know the type of potatoes, if they’ll be chitted, when they should be planted, how much fertilizer you’ll use, and when they should be ready to harvest. Salad or baby potatoes will take the shortest length of time to grow at around 80 days, then early and mid-season varieties at 90 to 100 days, and finally maincrop potatoes which can take 100 to 120 days on average. Good luck!" +Before you put any potatoes in the ground you should have the season ahead planned from planting to harvest. You should know the type of potatoes, if they’ll be chitted, when they should be planted, how much fertilizer you’ll use, and when they should be ready to harvest. Salad or baby potatoes will take the shortest length of time to grow at around 80 days, then early and mid-season varieties at 90 to 100 days, and finally maincrop potatoes which can take 100 to 120 days on average. Good luck!", "Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke @@ -904,7 +904,7 @@ not an absolute instruction. Changes can be done depending on many factors, e.g. type of soil, climate, weather, market, etc. Agrico PSA does not take any responsibility or liability in case of misinterpretation and loss of yields or crop as a result. When in doubt, always consult the Agrico agronomist, -or other agronomists or technically skilled people. " +or other agronomists or technically skilled people. ", "Easy Gardening Joseph Masabni, Assistant Professor and Extension Horticulturist, The Texas A&M University System irish potatoes • irish potatoes • irish pota- @@ -1254,7 +1254,7 @@ AgriLifeExtension.tamu.edu More Extension publications can be found at AgriLifeBookstore.org Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, disability, genetic information, or veteran status. -The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating." +The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.", "Agriculture and Natural Resources FSA6016 Home Gardening Series @@ -1626,7 +1626,7 @@ Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Arkansas. The Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national origin, religion, gender, age, disability, marital or veteran status, or any other legally protected status -FSA6016-PD-7-11RV and is an Affirmative Action/Equal Opportunity Employer. " +FSA6016-PD-7-11RV and is an Affirmative Action/Equal Opportunity Employer. ", "Growing Potatoes in Your Home Garden A Guide to Growing Potatoes In Your Home Garden @@ -2069,8 +2069,8 @@ Zarka Visit MSU’s Potato Breeding and Genetics Program website at https://www.msu.edu/~douchesd/ -© Michigan State University and the MSU Potato Breeding and Genetics Program" -"" +© Michigan State University and the MSU Potato Breeding and Genetics Program", +, "l/fr iC>:fiC- - Q O "" O L Introduction to potato production @@ -3314,11 +3314,11 @@ O U ^ O ^_; --P^ - -Q -u -> N" -"" +-P^ -", +Q, +u, +"> N""", +, "The University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center VEGETABLE GARDENING Growing Potatoes @@ -3480,7 +3480,7 @@ located in the county seat. They will be happy to provide you with information i The University of California's Cooperative Extension Programs are available to all, without regard to race, color, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. James B. Kendrick, Jr., Director, Cooperative Extension, University of California. -Page 3 " +Page 3 ", "ORGANIC POTATO PRODUCTION ON CALIFORNIA’S CENTRAL COAST: A Guide for Beginning Specialty Crop Growers @@ -4130,7 +4130,7 @@ Harvest Rate (hr/ac) 80 Price ($/#) 1.5-2 Harvest Assumptions Complete irrigation schedule available online at casfs.ucsc.edu/about/publications/growerguides. Data reflect direct field production costs and do not include other -potential overhead (e.g., water, electricity, land rent)." +potential overhead (e.g., water, electricity, land rent).", "MOALF/ SHEP PLUS Smallholder Horticulture Empowerment & Promotion Project for Local and Up-Scaling (SHEP PLUS) @@ -5172,8 +5172,8 @@ ASANTE SANA DOMO ARIGATO GOZAIMASU SMALLHOLDER HORTICULTURE EMPOWERMENT & PROMOTION PROJECT FOR LOCAL AND UP-SCALING(SHEP PLUS) © 2016 -68" -"" +68", +, "Tomatoes VEGETABLE CROPS PRODUCTION GUIDE FOR THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES @@ -5474,7 +5474,7 @@ Entomological Society of Canada. pp 269 to 289 and pp 489 to 501. Peppers and Tomatoes Research Profile. 1995. Vegetable and Potato Producers Association of Nova Scotia. 196 pp. Commercial Production of Staked Tomatoes in North Carolina. 1990. North Carolina State -University (Ag. Extension Services). 23 pp." +University (Ag. Extension Services). 23 pp.", "Grow Tomatoes from Seed By Suzanne DeJohn A crop of tomato seedlings growing in Biodegradable Cowpots. @@ -5665,7 +5665,7 @@ this variety. Juliet is a 60-day indeterminate that produces a huge crop. The fruit is oval and it's about 2"" long. It's firm, glossy and quite dense, like a miniature paste tomato. Juliet ripens fast and furious, and I use it for soups, sauces, salsas and cold salads. They also -get stewed whole for canning, and get halved for drying." +get stewed whole for canning, and get halved for drying.", "Tomatoes are among the most popular and rewarding crops for summer gardens. While all fruit and vegetables taste better picked fresh from the garden, tomatoes are in a class of their own. The flavor of a ripe, homegrown tomato picked on a warm summer day is hard to beat. @@ -5862,7 +5862,7 @@ weeds and controlling pests. Remove any affected plants. There are no chemical controls. • Tomato ripening Tomatoes may stop flowering and fruiting when temperatures rise above 35°C however, when the temperatures drop -below this level, they’ll return to productivity." +below this level, they’ll return to productivity.", "TOMATO PRODUCTION Introduction Tomato is a popular garden vegetable used in salads, as a vegetable, processed into tomato @@ -6029,7 +6029,7 @@ seed, destroying alternate hosts etc. observe the product label recommendations in each case. For diseases e.g. mildews, blight, copper-based or sulphur-based fungicides are used. 3. Viral diseases can be controlled by controlling vectors. Key vectors include; aphids, thrips, -whiteflies and nematodes" +whiteflies and nematodes", "Tomatoes NEP-224 Growing Your Own @@ -6296,7 +6296,7 @@ Contributions by: Matt Barton, Agriculture Communication Specialist, Jann Knappage, Food System Specialist, and Katie Shoultz, Marketing and Media -Specialist" +Specialist", "Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 1 of 10 Growing food at home series Growing tomatoes @@ -6630,7 +6630,7 @@ David Clayton, Shannan Davis, Lyn Hancock and Leslie Wightman for Grow Your Own Food Workshops, August 2015 updated By Shannan Davis, October 2020 http://www.graphicgardener.com/gardenblog/2011/03/t -omatoes-seeds-and/" +omatoes-seeds-and/", "TOMATO PLANTING GUIDE Kenya Highland Seed Company LTD has an outstanding portfolio of selected determinate (Open Pollinated Varieties and Hybrid tomato varieties) that are @@ -6701,7 +6701,7 @@ o Indeterminate varieties are pruned and this involves removal of extra flowers, side shoots and diseased leaves. o Under good agronomic practices, determinate varieties can be harvested for a period of up to 3months while indeterminate varieties can be harvested for a -period of over 6months. " +period of over 6months. ", " COMPREHENSIVE TOMATO FARMING GUIDE 2 | P a g e Introduction @@ -7216,122 +7216,8 @@ occur, wash water should not be reused. When washing ensure the wash water is se warmer than the pulp temperature of the tomatoes to avoid drawing water and disease organisms in the fruit Grading -During grading of fruits, damaged, rotten and cracked fruits should be removed. Only healthy," -"Visit us on the Web: www.gardeninghelp.org -Tomatoes -The tomato, Lycopericon esculentum, is native to Central and South America with the largest number of wild -relatives growing in Mexico. In the 1500s, Spanish priests harvested plants from Mexico and brought them -to Europe where they were admired only as an ornamental. The tomato was nicknamed the ‘golden apple” -because the first wild relative taken back to Europe had yellow fruit. Later, they became known as the ‘love -apple” and for 400 years they were considered poisonous because the tomato plant looked like deadly -nightshade. The wild species did not produce attractive, edible fruit; they were very seedy, sour and had a -rough outer skin. -In the late 1800s, tomatoes started to emerge as an edible fruit though still recognized primarily as an -ornamental. Breeding efforts in the 1870s produced the first commercial variety and now, the tomato is the -most popular vegetable for the garden in the U.S. Hundreds of varieties are available to plant and catalogs -commonly list dozens from which to choose. -Growing Tomatoes -Tomatoes can be grown from seed or more often, they are purchased as small plants from nurseries or -garden centers. Producing tomato plants from seed is easy, however, it requires that they be grown inside -under lights for about 8 weeks prior to setting out into the garden. If only a few plants are needed, it is -easier to purchase them as transplants in peat pots or cell packs. -Most varieties available today are of the determinant or otherwise called bush type. This means that plants -typically grow to a certain height, stop and the terminal buds set fruit. There is little maintenance to bush -type tomatoes, however, harvest is generally short and much of the fruit matures at the same time meaning -that you will have a large supply all at once. Indeterminant types or vine tomatoes continue to grow -throughout the season. The flowers are produced early and continue to develop over a longer period of -time compared to bush types. This gives a staggered harvest as fruits develop at different times. Growers of -vine tomatoes commonly provide some support like a cage or trellis to control the growth and make -harvesting easy. -If you do not have a garden bed, tomatoes can be grown in containers. Generally, the best selections for -containers are the cherry tomatoes which have a smaller root system and therefore, are better suited for -smaller soil volumes. -Soil Requirements -Tomatoes can be grown on a number of different soil types. The best is a deep, loamy soil that is welldrained and has a good supply of organic matter. The soil pH should be between 6.2 and 6.8 and should be -checked early in the season prior to planting. -Establishing Plants -Tomatoes are a warm-season crop and should not be planted outdoors until all danger of frost is past and -the soils have begun to warm. In St. Louis, that occurs safely around May 15. If temperatures go below 50 -degrees, they should be protected. The flowers will begin to set fruit when the night temperatures are -between 55 and 75 degrees. Lower and higher temperatures will result in no fruit set. -Generally, planting two tomato plants per adult and one for children will provide enough fresh tomatoes -for an average family. Plants should be set deeply into the soil so that the first leaves are just above the soil -surface. This stimulates development roots on the upper part of the stem and results in a stronger overall -root system. -Unstaked tomatoes should be spaced 3 feet apart with rows 5 feet apart. Staked tomatoes can be spaced 2 -feet apart with rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Plants which are to caged can be grown in rows a little closer. Once -planted, they should be watered with a starter fertilizer solution that has a high phosphorous content. A -recommended starter solution might be 1 tablespoon of 23-19-17 in a gallon of water. -Mulching -After the plants have been in the soil for several weeks, they should be mulched with straw or leaf mulch. -Mulching will assist in weed control, prevent excessive moisture loss, moderate soil temperature -fluctuations and keep the branches or vines from contacting the soil where the fruit will rot. Sometimes, -growers will place plastic sheeting down between rows to mulch the plants. This should be covered with -bark or other course materials to hold it in place and prevent premature decomposition of the plastic. -Fertilizer -Tomatoes will respond to fertilization, however, too much can damage the plants or result in poor fruit -development and lower yields. When preparing the bed for planting in the spring, apply about 2.5 to 3 -pounds of complete fertilizer like 5-10-10 or 5-20-20 to 100 square feet. This should be tilled or turned in -to a depth of 12 inches. After the first fruit are about the size of a golf ball, an extra amount of fertilizer -should be put down to support fruit development. Apply 1 pound of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of row -or about 1 tablespoon per plant. This is called side-dressing the plant or row. Repeat this two more times at -three-week intervals. -Supports -Providing some kind of support for the plants is generally recommended and can be done in a variety of -ways; either by staking, caging or by a trellis. If plants are allowed to sprawl on the ground without -support, the ground should be mulched to prevent directly contact of the fruit with the soil surface. More -diseases and fruit rots will occur if this is not done. -Plants tied to a stake or trellis work best for vine type tomato varieties of indeterminant growth. Cages can -be used for most any variety and are especially good for determinant types. Cages made of wire are most -popular, however, they make harvesting, pest and disease control more difficult. -Pruning -There are two types of pruning which can be done on tomatoes. The first involves removal of shoots or -suckers from the leaf axils off the main stem. The second involves pruning to develop single or multiple -stemmed plants. Removal of shoots (suckers) in the leaf axils on a regular basis is often a recommended -procedure to stimulate earliness and larger fruit. This can be done by pinching out the shoots by hand at -weekly intervals or as they become 1 to 2 inches long. Suckers can be removed up to about mid-July then -they should be allowed to grow. These will provide some shading of the developing fruit and help prevent -sun scald. -Like the removal of suckers, pruning plants to form single stemmed versus multiple stemmed plants will -promote larger and earlier fruit. If plants are trained to a trellis or a single stake, pruning is an easy task. If -you use cages, then it is not. One disadvantage of single stemmed plants is that they are more susceptible to -cracking fruit, blossom end rot and sun scald. Multiple stemmed plants require less maintenance, have -fewer fruit problems, but produce later maturing fruit. -Cultivar Selection -Which cultivar you select to grow is often a matter of personal preference. The first decision is to determine -whether a determinant or indeterminant type is best for you. If a support system is used, indeterminant -types typically require more effort to tie up the branches on a regular basis. However, they produce fruit -over an extended period so that you do not have bushels of fruit at once. Determinant varieties are easy to -care for because they are more self-supporting, however, most of the fruit will mature over a two to threeweek period. -How long it takes for fruit to mature is one consideration when selecting a variety. You may wish to choose -an early maturing variety (50 to 60 days). These generally do not produce fruit with the best taste, but -might be the best choice if you can not plant as early as you want or you expect a short fall season. Later -maturing varieties are usually better tasting but need to maintained longer before they are ready. -The following are recommended varieties for St. Louis: -Determinate -‘Show Me’ -‘Celebrity’ -‘Rutgers’ -‘Supersonic’ -‘Floramerica’ -Indeterminate -‘Big Girl’ -‘Better Boy’ -‘Jet Star’ -‘Big Pick’ -‘Lemon Boy’ (yellow) -‘Quick Pick’ -Cherry -‘Sweet 100’ -‘Sweet Million’ -‘Cherry Challenger’ (determinate) -‘Sundrop’ (yellow) -‘Small Fry’ (determinate) -Paste (all determinate) -‘Napoli’ -‘Veeroma’ -‘Veepick’ -‘Roma’" +During grading of fruits, damaged, rotten and cracked fruits should be removed. Only ", +, "Tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum) can be grown throughout the year. You can start harvesting tomato fruits 8 - 9 weeks after transplanting. @@ -7533,4 +7419,2946 @@ tomatoes will easily separate from the main stem of the plant. Figure 8: Staking plants in row Twine -Stake" +Stake", +" Crop Production Guide +Asparagus +Asparagus is a perennial vegetable crop adapted to +temperate climates such as Newfoundland and Labrador. +The plant requires a rest period, satisfied in Canada +by winter dormancy, and is dioecious, meaning that it +produces male or female sexual parts within their flowers. +In this way plants can be described as male or female. +Growth Requirements +Asparagus responds well to a deep, well-draining soil +with a light texture profile (sandy loam). Ideally, the soil +should contain at least three per cent organic matter and +have a pH between 6.0-6.8. Asparagus will not tolerate +standing water at the root system so soil needs to drain +properly and be free of hard-pans. The soil should +also be free of stone and gravel, as these can injure +growing stems making them unmarketable. Asparagus +will develop a large, proficient root system that can +reach 1.5 metres deep at maturity. New plantings +should not be placed in fields that have been previously +used for asparagus cultivation - two soil born Fusarium +diseases can cause serious production problems and as +a perennial crop there is no opportunity for crop rotation +in an established asparagus stand. +Cultivars +There are no cultivar recommendations for asparagus +in Newfoundland and Labrador. The University of +Guelph cultivar “Millennium” and U.S. developed +Introduction +1 +“Jersey Giant” are the most widely grown cultivars +in Ontario and have given superior yields to other +cultivars when tested in other parts of Canada. Both +cultivars are male-hybrid. Both “Millennium” and +“Jersey Giant” are male-hybrid genotypes, in most +commercial settings all-male hybrid seed is preferred, +to mixed seed as male plants are known produce 20- +25 per cent greater yields than females +Nutritional Value +Asparagus stems are a good source of vitamins A and C, +and potassium. Asparagus is also low in calories with 90g +of spear providing 18 kcals. +Crop Establishment +Seed Germination: +Asparagus seed requires a minimum of 10˚C to +germinate, however germination success and seedling +development are enhanced at temperatures between +15-30˚C. The optimum temperature for asparagus seed +germination is 24˚C. Germination may also be enhanced +by soaking seedlings in water at 32˚C for three to four +days prior to sowing. Soil should be at least 15˚C when +sowing asparagus seed. +Due to Newfoundland and Labrador’s short growing +season it may be advantageous to plant greenhouse +grown seedlings or nursery grown asparagus crowns +as opposed to direct seeding of asparagus. Asparagus +transplants can be started in a greenhouse in middle to +late February and transplanted into the field after eight +to 12 weeks or when soil has reached an adequate +temperature (15˚C). Asparagus crowns are started +in nursery beds and left in the ground for one year; +plants are dug up in the spring and then replanted +as soon as possible. Selection of the best crowns is +essential. Damaged, diseased or under sized (less than +25g) crowns should be discarded. Selection of the best +asparagus crowns is essential, all damaged, diseased or +under sized (less than 25g) crowns should be discarded, +this may be up to 40 per cent of the crowns in the +nursery beds. Crowns should be planted at a depth of +15-20 cm. + Crop Production Guide: Asparagus +2 +Seeding/Planting: +Permanent field spacing for plants should be at a +distance of 1.25-1.75 metres between rows and a +spacing of 30-45 cm between plants within the row. +Asparagus seed should be planted at a depth of +between 2.5-4 cm. Crowns should be placed in a 15- +20 cm deep furrow and covered with 5 cm of soil. Soil +should continue to be added through the season, usually +during cultivation to control weeds. +Crop Management +The first two to three years of establishment are +critical for the productivity and yield of the mature +asparagus stand. During these first couple years young +asparagus plantings can suffer from weed competition, +inadequate soil moisture and/or soil fertility. It is also +highly detrimental to over harvest plants during the +first years of establishment. After the last harvest of +the season the asparagus bed should be shallowly +cultivated to control weeds and incorporate nitrogen +fertilizer. Care must be taken to not damage the root +system of the asparagus during these activities. The +remaining stems will begin to unfurl their frond-like +leaves which will photosynthesize and capture energy +to recover from the harvest period and store reserves +for winter dormancy and regrowth in the spring. While +stems are still green they are still connected to the root +system of the plant and should not be removed. When +the stems turn yellow they can be removed, however +the stems tend to catch snow which can help insulate +the plant during winter. The stems can be cut and +incorporated in the spring before the plant breaks out +of dormancy. Incorporation of dead stem tissue can +add 10 tonnes of organic matter per hectare. + +Nutrition +All soil fertility recommendation begin with soil +analysis. Test soil before any agricultural activities. +Recommendations given here refer to results from a soil +test using a Mehlich-3 extraction solution. +Nitrogen +Yearly nitrogen requirement for mature asparagus stand +are approximately 110 kg/ha. Generally for mature +stands half is applied prior to harvest and then the +remainder is applied after last harvest. For new plantings +all nitrogen is applied before planting. Asparagus +responds well to manure application. Production of +asparagus crowns require approximately one half the +nitrogen needed for regular production. + +Phosphorus +A mature asparagus stand is unlikely to respond to +increases in phosphorus when soil levels are 125 mg/L +or greater. As phosphorus is difficult to incorporate into +established stands, the optimum time to apply nutrient is at +planting. Up to 135 kg/ha of phosphorus should be applied +within the trench before planting crowns or transplants. +Potassium +Although asparagus has a relatively high potassium +requirement, the plant is unlikely to respond to +applications of potassium when soil levels are 250 mg/L +or greater. +Micronutrients +Asparagus has a high boron requirement and the soils +of Newfoundland and Labrador can naturally have +suboptimum levels. Asparagus is unlikely to respond to +Boron application when soil test levels of 1.5 mg/L or +above. Soil nutrient analysis should be consulted before +the application of micronutrients. +Application +For mature asparagus stands fertilizer applications are +usually broadcast and incorporated using a light disking. +For new plantings, fertilizer, especially phosphorous, +should be banded within the row. +Climatic Limitations +Late spring frost can be damaging to asparagus plants. +Generally frost will damage the first flush of stems +produced by the plant in the spring, this is unfortunate as +this first flush of stems tend to be the largest in terms of +both size of the stem and the number of stems. Losses +during this early period can cause major reductions in +overall yield for the growing season. In addition stems +damaged by frost must be removed from the field. +Asparagus beds can be protected from frost by covering +the beds with black plastic; however the practicality of +this activity will depend on how large the asparagus field +is. Early fall frost can also cause damage, however this is +generally minor in comparison to spring frost issues. + Crop Production Guide: Asparagus +3 +Wind damage can cause a hooking of the stem, counter +intuitively, into the wind. This is caused by reduced +growth of the wind exposed tissues. Hooking of the +stem does not change the flavor quality of asparagus +and hooked stems can still be sold, although sometimes +as a lower grade. +Pest and Disease +Disease: Asparagus rust (Puccinia asparagi) +Characteristics: Red/orange lesion develops on +leaves and stems. This disease can cause premature +defoliation of leaves which results in reduced yields in +subsequent years. +Control: Monitor for the appearance of the disease so +fungicides can be applied before significant buildup of +infection and spore production. All infected material +should be removed from the field or incorporated into +the soil. A trifloxystrobin based fungicide is registered for +rust control in asparagus production in Canada. +Disease: Fusarium crown and root rot (Fusarium +oxysporum f.sp. asparagi) and (Fusarium moniliforme) +Characteristics: Rotted and hollow root system (both +feeder and storage roots), can be accompanied by a red/ +brown discoloration. Above ground parts can appear +stunted and/or wilted. F. oxysporum is wide spread in +Canada and can be found in most soils. F. moniliforme is +capable of infecting both asparagus and corn. +Control: It is imperative that new asparagus planting be +placed in fields that have not been used for asparagus or +corn production within the last five years. Avoid damage +to the asparagus roots during cultivation. Fungicides are +generally ineffective against this disease; however soil +fumigation prior to planting may reduce the population +of Fusarium in the soil. +Disease: Botrytis blight (Botrytis cinerea) +Characteristics: Causes tan lesions with brownish +borders, in more advanced cases fuzzy gray spores will +be visible. Disease can completely kill newly emerging +stems, and is most problematic when high moisture is +present either during wet weather or when air is unable +to move in the canopy. +Control: Botrytis is a common invader of wounded or +weakened plant tissues and is also prevalent in storage. +Reducing injuries to plants will reduce infection point. +Remove and destroy infected tissues to reduce further +spread. Trifloxystrobin registered for asparagus rust +control will provide some control of Botrytis. +Insects: Common asparagus beetle (Crioceris +asparagi) and spotted asparagus beetle (Crioceris +duodecimpunctata) +Characteristics: The most significant damage caused +by these two beetles is feeding damage on stems and +leaves of asparagus. Defoliation of stems can occur in +serious cases, which can cause impacts on the following +years yield. Larvae of the spotted asparagus beetle feed +within berries, which will decrease seed yield. + Crop Production Guide: Asparagus +4 +gov.nl.ca +Control: The beetles can be trapped by allowing a row +or small group of asparagus to produce leaves early in +the spring which will attract the mobile adult beetles. +When a significant population has infested these plants +they can be sprayed. There are currently seven different +products registered to control beetles in asparagus +production in Canada. +Harvest and Handling: +Asparagus should not be harvested for the first two +years. This gives the plant an establishment period to +develop an adequate root system and enough storage +reserves to tolerate being harvested in the subsequent +years. Stems of asparagus can be harvested from plants +after two to three years of establishment, depending on +the planting material. No data is available on asparagus +yields in the province of Newfoundland and Labrador. In +Ontario, yield from three-year-old plants can reach +1000kg/ha; four-year-old plants can yield 2000kg/ +ha; yields as high as 3000kg/ha can be produced from +mature plants in years five to 15. + +During the first harvest year (year three) stems should +only be harvested for one to two weeks. During year +four stems should only be harvested at three to four +weeks. At year five and on through maturity of the +asparagus stand stems can be harvested for up to seven +weeks. Harvest should stop when size/diameter of the +stem starts to diminish, as this is a sign that the plant is +being over harvested and could have an adverse effect +on the following year’s crop. As a rule of thumb harvest +should stop when ¾ of the stems have diameters smaller +than one cm. +Storage: +Asparagus stems should be moved to cold storage as +soon as possible after the harvest because the quality +of the stems will decline rapidly. Store the stems at 2˚C +and with 95 per cent relative humidity. Asparagus can be +held in storage for between two to four weeks; however +quality can decline rapidly if temperature increase or +humidity decreases. + Crop Production Guide: Asparagus +For more info please contact: +Crop Development Officer – West +James Dawson Ph.D +709.637.2078 +jamesdawson@gov.nl.ca +Crop Development Officer – East +Jane White B.Sc +709.729.6867 +janewhite@gov.nl.ca +5", +"Easy Gardening +Joseph Masabni, Assistant Professor and Extension Horticulturist, The Texas A&M University System +asparagus • asparagus • asparagus • aspar +-1- +Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a +highly desirable, early-spring vegetable best suited to the cooler areas +of North and West Texas. It can also be +grown in areas such as Dallas and Houston. It produces poorly in areas with mild +winters and extremely long, hot summers. +With proper care and in a suitable climate, +an asparagus crown can last 15 to 25 years. +Asparagus is good source of vitamin +A and C and minerals, and it tastes better +when homegrown than when shipped into +Texas from other areas. +Asparagus is dioecious, meaning that +it has separate male and female plants. +Grown for its stems or spears, asparagus +yields 8 to 10 pounds or more per 100 +square feet of bed if tended well. For most +home gardeners, a 20-foot row or 100 +square feet of bed is adequate for a family of four. That’s equivalent to 20 planted +crowns or 10 pounds of harvested asparagus per season. +Site selection +Because asparagus remains in the +same place several years, it is important +to select the right spot and prepare the +seedbed well. Asparagus does best in full +sunlight and deep, well-drained, sandy or +light-textured soils. Asparagus plants make +a good border around the edge of a garden +or along a fence. +Soil preparation +Before planting, make sure that the +soil is free of trash, soil insects, and perennial weeds such as johnsongrass or bermudagrass. Avoid sites where yellow nutsedge +grows, as this indicates poor drainage, +which is unsuitable for asparagus production. +In late fall, spread a 3-inch layer of +organic matter such as manure, rotted +sawdust, or compost over the beds. Till or +spade them to a depth of 10 to 12 inches, +EHT-066 +5/14 +nursery, garden center, or seed catalog. +After the asparagus beds are tilled, +mark rows 5 feet apart. Dig a furrow 4 +inches wide and 4 to 12 inches deep. Separate the crowns by size, and plant those of +similar size together for best uniformity in +spear size at harvest. +Spread super phosphate fertilizer (0- +46-0) as a band in the furrow at a rate of +2.0 pounds per 1,000 square feet or 0.75 +ounce per 20-foot row. Place the crowns 12 +to 14 inches apart in the furrow. Planting +too closely can cause small spears. Wider +planting results in larger spears but lower +total yield. In loose soils, plant the crowns +6 to 12 inches deep; in heavier soils, plant +them 4 to 6 inches deep (Fig. 1). Cover the +furrow with 1 inch of compost topped by 2 +to 3 inches of soil. Firm the soil around the +roots. +Over the season, fill the furrows gradually as the shoots grow. This covers small +weeds, and they die from lack of light. +By the end of the first season, the furrow +should reach its normal level (Fig. 1). +Control weeds, but do not injure the +crowns. If the crowns are planted deeply, +you can cultivate the bed with garden tools +or tiller (do not till too deep) without damaging the crowns. +An alternative planting method is to +plant the crowns at the suggested depth +and turn the soil to cover all organic matter. +Asparagus grows well in high-pH soils +and poorly if the soil pH is below 6.0. Test +the soil before planting the beds and add +lime if needed to adjust the pH to 6.5 to +7.5. +Varieties +The hybrid asparagus cultivars ‘Martha Washington’, ‘UC 157’, ‘Jersey Giant’, +and ‘Mary Washington’ produce better +than the standard cultivars. Male asparagus cultivars such as Jersey types (‘Jersey +Giant’, ‘Jersey Knight’, and ‘Jersey Supreme’) are more productive and resist +disease better than the female cultivars +(‘Washington’ types). Also, female cultivars are less vigorous and produce many +red, berrylike fruits that become volunteer +weeds in the garden. +A purple asparagus cultivar (‘Purple +Passion’) with green flesh and large spears +is available for home gardens. +Planting +Asparagus is grown from 1- or 2-yearold crowns planted in January or February, +or as soon as the ground can be worked. +Crowns can also be grown from seeds +planted in flats or peat cups. It takes at +least a year to +grow a good +crown. To +shorten the +period from +planting to +harvest, buy +and plant +healthy, vigorous, 1- or +2-year-old +crowns from a +Figure 1. (a) Planting crown; (b) immediately after planting; (c) several weeks after +planting; (d) at the end of the season +-2- + (a) (b) (c) (d) +4-12” 2-3” +Care during the season +Asparagus competes poorly with +weeds. For asparagus to grow vigorously, +weeds must be controlled in the first 1 to +2 years of its establishment. To suppress +weeds, spread a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of +organic mulch, such as hay, stray, compost, wood chips, or grass clippings. +Asparagus beds require little care after +the first 2 years of establishment. Keep +weeds pulled or hoed from the beds. To +avoid damaging the spears, control weeds +early before the spears emerge. Till the soil +when fertilizer is applied early in the season before the spears begin growing (Fig. +2). +At the end of the harvest season, control weeds by raking lightly or mulching. +Apply fertilizer and till lightly 1 to 2 inches +deep to kill weeds. Cover the bed with a +3-inch layer of clean straw, compost, or +other mulch material. Water it thoroughly, +and allow the asparagus to grow the rest of +the year. This helps ensure a good harvest +the next year (Fig. 3). +After the first hard frost or freeze of +fall, cut off the fern tops at ground level +and mulch the bed with manure. Burn or +compost the fern tops to eliminate sources +of insect eggs or disease reinfestation. In +southern areas, the fern may not be killed +-3- +and immediately fill in the furrow with +soil to its original level. Using this method, +you do not need to gradually cover the +crowns with soil, as long as the soil is not +compacted over the newly planted crowns. +It takes 2 to 3 years from the time the +crown is planted until the bed is in full +production. When conditions are favorable, buds arise from the crown and develop into edible spears. If not harvested, +the spears will develop into fernlike stalks. +From these stalks, the mature plant manufactures food and stores it in the underground crown. This reserve supplies the +energy necessary to produce spears the following year. +Fertilizing +Before planting a new asparagus bed, +broadcast and spade in or incorporate ¼ +pound of nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium per 20 feet of row or as directed by a +soil test report. +For established beds, scatter 2 pounds +of 10-20-10 fertilizer (or its equivalent) per +20 feet of row before growth begins in the +spring, late January, or early February in +most areas of Texas. +After the last harvest, apply an additional 1 to 2 pounds per 20 feet of row. If +available, use a nitrogen fertilizer such as +21-0-0 at this time. Always water the fertilizer into the soil. +Watering +Asparagus plants need frequent, deep +watering. Water the beds thoroughly, and +allow the top 1 inch of soil to dry before +watering again. The time varies from 3 to 5 +days, depending on soil type and temperature. In sandy soils, asparagus roots can +reach 10 feet deep if adequate soil moisture +is available. +Figure 2. Till the soil early in the season before the +spears emerge. +Growing +the developing buds in the crown, never +cut the spear too deep. However, this +method is not recommended because the +knife may spread diseases from crown to +crown. +Stop harvesting when the spear diameter becomes less than 3 +⁄8 inch or when the +spear heads open up with rising temperatures. +Some gardeners prefer white asparagus. This is grown by using mounds of soil +or mulch to deprive the spears of light. +White asparagus has a milder flavor and +is preferred in gourmet cuisine. When the +asparagus head barely emerges through the +mulch mound, use a knife to cut the spears +at the desired height. +-4- +by a freeze, so +it should be +removed in +late November +when the ferns +turn yellow. +Any spears that +sprout may be +removed and +eaten. +A post emergent herbicide such as +glyphosate could be used against weeds +before asparagus growth begins in early +spring. +Harvesting +Harvest asparagus spears from established beds for about 8 weeks, depending +on the area. Do not harvest during the first +2 years after planting. This waiting period +enables the underground crown to grow +and store enough reserves for a strong harvest for many years to come. +Harvest the spears when they are 4 to +10 inches long. To prevent the spears from +becoming fibrous, harvest at least every +other day. The fibrous condition is caused +by overmaturity or inadequate fertility. +Spears with loose or opened heads are too +mature. +To harvest, snap off the spears by +hand at ground level. Never snap asparagus spears above the ground or allow a +stub to remain. +An alternative method is to use a +knife to cut the spears 1 to 2 inches below +the soil level (Fig. 4). To avoid damage to Figure 4. Some asparagus gardeners harvest by +cutting the spears 1 to 2 inches below the ground +level. +Ground +level +Figure 3. (a) Remove mulch, fertilize and till; (b) harvest; (c) after last harvest, fertilize +and mulch; (d) remove tops and mulch with manure. +Late Jan./early Mar. Late Feb./early May April/May After first freeze +(a) (b) (c) (d) +10-20-10 21-0-0 +Cut tops +to ground +level +prevent the establishment of many asparagus diseases. Common diseases that attack +asparagus are crown rot and rusts; they can +be controlled with organic chemicals such +as sulfur or potassium phosphite. +Serving +After harvest, asparagus loses +quality very rapidly––the sugar +content declines and the amount +of fibrous material increases. Use +spears with compact heads; those +with loose heads are fibrous and +do not keep well. +Asparagus can be stored up +to 3 weeks in plastic bags in the +refrigerator. For longer storage, +blanch the asparagus spears 3 to +5 minutes, package, and freeze +them. +For information on preserving and +serving asparagus, contact the county Extension agent. +-5- +White asparagus is grown by covering an asparagus row with black plastic +supported by wire hoops. The covering +is opened on one side for harvest, then +placed into position again immediately +after harvest. The plastic +tunnel structure is +removed when the harvest season is over. Culture and pest control +of white asparagus are +similar to that of green +asparagus. +Insects +The most significant +pest of asparagus is the +asparagus beetle. Left unchecked, this beetle can +greatly damage asparagus +in a short period. The beetle overwinters +(spends the winter) in crop residue or trash +in the garden or in the border. +If you see beetles feeding on asparagus, remove them by hand or spray them +with Surround (organic insecticide) or +Sevin. +Diseases +If you select a good site with proper +drainage and pH, you can reduce if not +Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service +AgriLifeExtension.tamu.edu +More Extension publications can be found at AgriLifeBookstore.org +Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard +to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, disability, genetic information, or veteran status. + The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating. +Revision +Acknowledgments +This publication was revised from earlier versions written +by Jerry Parsons, Professor and Extension Horticulturist, and +Sam Cotner, Professor Emeritus and Extension Horticulturist.", +"Agriculture and Natural Resources +FSA6002 + + +Craig +R. +Andersen + + +Associate +Professor + + +Arkansas +Is + + +Our +Campus + + +Visit +our +web +site +at: + +https://www.uaex.uada.edu +Asparagus + +Home +Gardening +Series + +Environment +Light – sunny +Soil – well­drained, deep +Fertility – medium­rich +pH – 6.0 to 7.0 +Temperature – cool +Moisture – average +Culture +Planting – one­year­old crowns, +spring +Spacing – 18 x 60 inches +Hardiness – hardy perennial +Fertilizer – medium­rich, summer +Asparagus – Asparagus +officinalis altilis +Asparagus is a native of +temperate Europe and western Asia +and still grows in a wild state in +saline areas. It has been known to +and prized by epicures since Roman +times. It is widely grown and used +throughout Europe and was introduced early into the United States. +Asparagus is a perennial +vegetable that produces spears each +year without replanting. A wellplanned row or bed can last for 20 to +30 years. Therefore, plant asparagus +at the side or end of the garden +where it is not disturbed by dayto­day gardening activities. +Asparagus is one of the earliest +vegetables harvested in the spring. +Cultural Practices +Planting Time +Asparagus crowns can be +planted as early as the ground can +be worked in the spring and as +late as June 1. Use one­year­old +crowns or plants because it takes +one to two years longer to produce +asparagus from seed. Purchase the +plants from a garden store, +nursery or through a seed catalog. +The young plants have compact +buds in the center (crown) with +dangling, pencil­sized storage +University +of +Arkansas, +United +States +Department +of +Agriculture, +and +County +Governments +Cooperating + + +Cultivars +Cultivar +Days to +Maturity +Plants/ +100 Ft +of Row +Disease Resistance +or Tolerance Remarks +Mary Washington Perennial 50 crowns Rust Good quality. +UC157-F2 Perennial 50 crowns Rust, fusarium rot Good quality and yield. +Jersey Knight Perennial 50 crowns Rust, fusarium rot All male hybrids, large uniform spears. +Jersey Gem Perennial 50 crowns Fusarium, cercospora All male hybrids, large spears, purple bracts. +Jersey Giant Perennial 50 crowns Rust, fusarium rot All male hybrid. +Purple Passion Perennial 50 crowns Large purple spears turn green when cooked. +roots. Thick, firm storage roots indicate a +healthy crown. +Spacing and Depth of Planting +Place the plants in a trench 12 to 18 inches wide +and 9 to 12 inches deep. Space the crowns 18 to 24 +inches apart. Spread the roots out uniformly with the +crowns in an upright, centered position. Cover the +crowns with 2 inches of soil. Gradually fill the remaining portion of the trench during the first summer. +Asparagus tends to “RISE” as the plants mature; +during the winter, many gardeners apply an additional 1 or 2 inches of soil over the rows in later years. +Care +As asparagus plants grow, they produce a mat of +roots horizontally rather than vertically. In the first +year, the top growth is spindly. As the plants become +older, the stems get larger in diameter. +Asparagus plants are dioecious (either male or +female). The male plant develops more spears or +stems than the female plant, but the stems are +smaller in diameter. Gardeners plant both the male +and female plants in an approximate ratio of 1:1. +Yields are not appreciably different between the +sexes. After the first year, small red berries form on +the female plants in late summer. +Fertilize asparagus the same way as the rest of +the garden during the first three years. In spring, +apply a complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13 at the +rate of 3 to 4 pounds per 100 feet of row and +incorporate with cultivation. Starting the fourth year +and after, apply the same amount of fertilizer but +delay application until after harvest in June or July. +Weeds can be a major problem for asparagus. +They compete with developing spears and decrease +yield and quality. Start frequent, light cultivation in +the spring in both young plantings and patches that +are being harvested. +Harvesting +Harvest asparagus in the second year after +planting crowns, but do not harvest for more than +one month the first time. When the diameter of the +spears is less than the size of a pencil, cease harvesting. The plant is still expanding its feeder roots and +storage root system, and excessive removal of spears +weakens the plant. Starting the fourth year, spears +may be harvested from April into June. +Harvest spears that are 5 to 8 inches in length by +cutting or snapping. To cut a spear, run a knife under +the ground where the spear is emerging. Since the +spear will be cut below the point of fiber development, +snapping the stem is necessary. Cutting may damage +some spear tips that have not yet emerged from the +ground. To snap a spear, bend it from the top toward +the ground. The spear breaks at the point where it is +free of fiber. +Asparagus deteriorates rapidly after harvest. +If it is not eaten immediately, it should be processed +or refrigerated. +Common Problems +Asparagus beetles are common in home plantings. +They may be controlled by using a suggested +insecticide or by hand picking. +disease – rust, fusarium crown rot +insects – asparagus beetles, cutworms +cultural – weak, spindly plants and/or too few +spears caused by harvesting the first year after +planting or too heavy a harvest in later years; crown +rot or poor production from inadequately prepared, +heavy soil +Harvesting and Storage +days to maturity – 2 to 3 years +harvest – third-year spears; snap off just under +soil surface when 6 to 8 inches tall, before tips begin +to separate; use or refrigerate immediately +approximate yields (per 10 feet of row) – 3 to +4 pounds per year +amount to raise per person – 6 pounds +storage – process or refrigerate immediately in +plastic bags +preservation – can or freeze +Frequently Asked Questions +Q. What causes my asparagus to have +loose heads? +A. When the weather turns hot, the growing point +expands rapidly and the bracts (green modified +leaves) are spread by the early development of +the stems and ferns. +Q. Early spring freezes caused asparagus +spears in my garden to turn brown and +wither. Are they safe to eat? +A. Frozen tips should be harvested and thrown +away. These spears, although not poisonous, will +be off-flavor. +Q. Can I start asparagus from seed? +A. Yes, you can grow your own plants by planting +seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in the +row. Start the seed in the spring when the soil +temperature has reached 60 degrees F. Dig the +plants the following spring and transplant them +to the permanent bed as soon as the garden can +be worked. Growing your own plants delays the +establishment of your bed an additional year. +Q. I have just purchased some asparagus +plants. How should I plant them? +A. Prepare planting bed by digging out unsuitable +soil. Replace it with an organic mixture of onethird sand, one-third soil and one-third +sphagnum moss, compost or potting soil. Plant +the asparagus 18 to 24 inches apart in a trench, +with the crowns 9 inches below ground level. +Cover the crowns about 2 inches and gradually +fill in the trench as the season progresses. +Q. When should asparagus plantings +be divided? +A. Divide asparagus crowns during the late winter +after the tops have been removed. The crowns +can be divided easily into individual plants +for replanting. +Q. How long after planting asparagus can I +harvest the first spears? +A. Wait three years before the first harvest if you +plant from seed. If you start from one-year-old +crowns, harvest can begin on a limited basis the +next year. Harvesting early reduces yield and +quality of home-grown asparagus. +Q. How long can I harvest asparagus in +the spring? +A. Generally, harvest should extend four to six +weeks from the first harvest in early spring. +Stop harvesting when the diameter of the spears +is less than that of a pencil. Complete harvest in +late spring. Harvest selectively afterwards to +allow a few spears to develop into ferns. +Q. When I finish harvesting asparagus spears, +how should I care for the plants during the +rest of the year? +A. Allow the remaining spears to develop into +ferns. Occasional fertilizing and adequate +moisture help the plants develop sufficient top +growth for good spear production the next year. +Q. Each year my asparagus produces quite +well, but many of the spears are bent and +crooked. What causes this? +A. Asparagus spears grow fast and are highly +sensitive to mechanical injury from cultivation, +insect feeding or wind-blown soil particles. +Injured spears grow slowly. The noninjured side +of the spears grows rapidly causing them to +curve and bend toward the injured side. +Q. Can table salt be used for weed control in +my asparagus bed? +A. Yes, in limited amounts. Asparagus is more salt +tolerant than most vegetable plants. Use salt to +control weeds. Asparagus plants and later spear +production will be reduced by excessive +amounts of salt usage in any one season or +salt accumulation over the years. +Q. What causes my asparagus spears to get +smaller and smaller each year? +A. This condition occurs in warmer areas. Spear +production is mainly the result of food +accumulated in the root system the previous year. +The amount of food stored decreases with high +temperatures during fall or poor growing conditions. +Spears will be smaller the next spring. Water the +asparagus bed in July and August. Do not cut down +the ferns until late September. Remember to stop +harvesting asparagus when the diameter of the +spears is less than that of a pencil. If poor growing +conditions prevail, smaller and smaller spears will +result each year. +Printed by University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service Printing Services. +DR. CRAIG R. ANDERSEN is associate professor, Department of Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 +Horticulture, University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of +Fayetteville. Agriculture, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of +Arkansas. The Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service offers its +programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national +origin, religion, gender, age, disability, marital or veteran status, or +any other legally protected status, and is an Affirmative Action/Equal +FSA6002-PD-5-09RV Opportunity Employer.", +" +Growing Vegetables: Asparagus +Becky Sideman, UNH Cooperative Extension Professor & Specialist +Asparagus is a perennial crop that produces spears year after year for +10 to 15 years or longer if the plants are given adequate care. Because +it remains in the same location for many years, it’s important to select +a planting site that’s convenient, as well as having good growing +characteristics in mind. The edge of a garden might be preferable to +the middle to accommodate future gardening activities. +Asparagus +Asparagus is grown for its succulent, immature shoots that, if allowed +to grow, will eventually become the bushy foliage called ferns. In +southern New Hampshire the young spears emerge about the first +week in May or when the soil temperature reaches about 40 degrees +F. Growth continues into late fall or early winter until the ferns are +killed by frost. +Growth Characteristics +The asparagus plant is made up of top (ferns), crown (buds) and +roots. All three are vital to a productive plant. The ferns are the +“factory,” which, through the process of photosynthesis, produces +food stored in the crown and roots below ground. The number of +vigorous spears in the spring depends upon the amount of food +produced and stored in the crown during the preceding summer +and fall. Producing a good crop of ferns is necessary to ensure a +good crop of spears the next spring. +Do not cut back the old ferns at the end of the season until they are +completely dead. In the fall, nutrients move from the dying ferns +to the crown. Removing the ferns too early weakens the crown and +may thereby reduce the size and number of spears the following +spring. +Growing Conditions +Site +Full sun is ideal. Asparagus needs at least 8 hours of sun per day. +Since asparagus is a long-lived perennial, do not plant where trees +or tall shrubs might eventually shade the plants or compete for +nutrients and water. +Soil +The crown and root system can grow to an enormous size: 5 to 6 +feet in diameter and 10 to 15 feet deep. Therefore, where possible, +Freshly harvested asparagus. +Bringing information and education into +the communities of the Granite State +Asparagus is the most delicious when it is +freshly harvested. Maintain short-term freshness by standing an asparagus bunch in about +an inch of water in a flat-bottomed container in +the refrigerator. +Did You Know? +UNH Cooperative Extension • 2 +select a soil that is loose, deep, well-drained and fertile. On sites with +poor soil, incorporate manure, compost, and/or green manure cover +crops into the soil before you plant asparagus. +Fertilizer +Have soil tested before planting and every three years thereafter. Soil +testing can be done through a number of private and public labs. UNH +Cooperative Extension offers this service. Forms and instructions are +available on our website: https://extension.unh.edu/Problem-Diagnosis-and-Testing-Services/Soil-Testing, or you can call our Info Line at +1-877-EXT-GROW (1-877-398-4769). +Adjust the soil pH to 6.5 to 6.8 by adding the appropriate quantity of +limestone or wood ashes as recommended by a soil test. Fertilizer +requirements are also determined by the same soil test. A general +recommendation is to add the equivalent of 2.5 pounds of 10-10-10 +fertilizer per 100 square feet. All lime and fertilizer materials should +be thoroughly incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches +before planting. +Planting +Asparagus is planted in the spring. The simplest method is to plant +one-year-old crowns purchased from local garden dealers or through +home garden catalogs. Even though the young crown will appear to be a +lifeless mass of stringy roots, it will begin to send up small green shoots +(spears) shortly after planting. +Set plants 18 inches apart in rows five feet apart. Dig holes or trenches +about 8 inches deep and 10 inches wide. Spread the roots in the bottom +of the hole or trench and cover the crown with about 2 inches of soil. As +the young shoots continue to grow during the first summer, gradually +fill in the hole with soil. The tops of the crowns should be about 6 inches +below the soil surface when the trenches are completely filled. This +allows for cultivation by hoe or rototiller and also provides a sufficient +depth of soil for new buds to develop on top of the crown. +An alternative to using one-year-old crowns is to start asparagus +transplants from seeds as you would start other vegetable transplants. +About 6 to 8 weeks before planting, sow the seeds directly into pots. +Thin to one plant per pot and, after all danger of frost has passed, plant +the young seedlings as described above for crowns. Do not cover the +young shoots (ferns) with soil. +Weed Control +Weeds are the most common problem in asparagus plantings, +because they compete with the crop and reduce productivity. +Do not plant asparagus or any vegetable in an area heavily infested with +quackgrass or other weeds that spread by rhizomes. If +necessary, begin a year in advance to clean out the quackgrass, either by +Asparagus crowns are planted in +trenches 10 inches wide and 8 inches +deep (top). As the young shoots start to +grow, continue to add small amounts of +soil to fill in the trench without burying +the young ferns (bottom). By the end of +the season, the trench should be filled +to the top. +The border between this row of +asparagus and the adjacent lawn is +tilled throughout the season, every 3-4 +weeks to prevent grasses and other +weeds from creeping in and taking over +the planting. +8” deep +10” wide +UNH Cooperative Extension • 3 +hand or mechanical cultivation or by spraying with an approved +herbicide when the grass is 6 to 8 inches tall. If using herbicides, +follow label directions precisely for safety and good weed control. +In addition to planting in an area free of weeds, it can be helpful to +maintain a tilled border around the asparagus planting, to prevent +weeds from outside the patch from migrating into the planting. +To manage annual weeds, mulch with straw, grass clippings, +chopped leaves, or pine needles after the trenches have been filled +in. Hand-hoeing while weeds are small is also effective. +Pest Control +The asparagus beetle is the most serious insect pest that affects +asparagus. The larvae are dark and slug-like and are found on the +ferns. There are two types of asparagus beetle; the common +asparagus beetle (Crioceris asparigi) and the spotted asparagus +beetle (C. duodecimpunctata). The adult spotted asparagus beetle +is red with black spots, and the adult common asparagus beetle is +metallic-colored with yellow spots. You can also reduce the +damage caused by these insects if you practice “clean harvest”, +meaning that you harvest all of the spears every time you harvest +during the time that you’re harvesting, and then let all of them +grow to ferns. At the end of fall, remove all of the dead ferns and +crop debris that would otherwise shelter the adult beetles. If these +practices do not control the pest, several insecticides are labeled for +management of asparagus beetle. +Asparagus rust and Fusarium crown and root rot are common +diseases. Both diseases can weaken asparagus plants, so that the +planting becomes less productive over time. Most varieties are +fairly resistant to rust. Removing old ferns provides additional +protection. Fusarium is more difficult to control. Use vigorous +varieties listed as tolerant and do not plant new asparagus in areas +that were previously planted to asparagus. +Harvest +Do not harvest asparagus until the third year after planting. The +plants need at least two full seasons of growth before they build up +ample food reserves to sustain harvests. In the third year, harvest +only 2 to 3 weeks. In years thereafter, harvest no longer than 6 to 8 +weeks (until about July 1 in southern New Hampshire). +Harvesting for a longer period of time will not allow for maximum +fern growth. Harvest the spears when they are 6 to 8 inches tall. +Either snap or cut the spears off at ground level. To avoid injuring +spears beneath the soil surface, do not cut more than one inch +below the surface. +Storage +Do not harvest asparagus until the +third year after planting. The plants +need at least two full seasons of +growth before they build up ample +food reserves to sustain harvests. +Did You Know? +These are very healthy asparagus ferns, +a few weeks after harvest. Compost +has been added and weeds have been +killed by shallow hoeing. +UNH Cooperative Extension brings information and education into the communities of the Granite State to help make New Hampshire’s +individuals, businesses, and communities more successful and its natural +resources healthy and productive. For 100 years, our specialists have been tailoring contemporary, practical education to regional needs, helping create a well-informed citizenry while strengthening key economic sectors. +The University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension is an equal +opportunity educator and employer. University of New Hampshire, +U.S. Department of Agriculture and N.H. counties cooperating. +Asparagus is of highest quality when freshly harvested. It can be stored for +a couple of weeks if the temperature is held at 34 degrees F and high relative +humidity, but sweetness and flavor will deteriorate. Maintain short-term +freshness by standing an asparagus bunch in about an inch of water in a +flat-bottomed container in the refrigerator. +Care of Established Plantings +Remove ferns in the late fall, once they have completely died back. Early +each spring, cultivate to remove any perennial weeds, and apply +fertilizer materials over the surface. Apply the equivalent of 10-10-10 +fertilizer at about 2,5 pounds per 100 square feet. Incorporate very lightly +into the soil, no deeper than 1 to 2 inches. If you choose to use compost or +animal manures, apply them just after you stop harvesting for the year. Keep +the asparagus planting weed free with mulches or by hand-weeding. +Updated: June 2016 +For More Information: +State Office +Taylor Hall +59 College Rd. +Durham, NH 03824 +http://extension.unh.edu +Education Center and +Information Line +answers@unh.edu +1-877-EXT-GROW +(1-877-398-4769) +9 am–2 pm M–F +Search key words: +“UNH Education Center” +About the Authors +Original fact sheet by Otho +S. Wells, UNH Extension +Vegetable Specialist. Reviewed +and revised by Becky +Sideman, UNH Extension +Vegetable & Berry Specialist. +Dr. Becky Sideman is an +Extension Professor in the +Dept. of Biological Sciences +at UNH, and is the state +specialist for Sustainable +Horticulture for UNH +Cooperative Extension. Her +program emphasizes vegetable +and berry crop production +including season extension for +Northern New England. +Visit our website: +extension.unh.edu", +"Publication 426-401 (SPES-250P) +Asparagus +Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech +Alan McDaniel, Extension Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech +Reviewed by Dave Close, Consumer Horticulture and Master Gardener Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech +Seeds may be started in peat pots; they are +slow to germinate (up to three weeks indoors), +so be patient. Seedlings may be transplanted +in June, either to the final growing site or to a +temporary transplant bed. Direct transplanting +to the permanent site allows simple planting +techniques and avoids disturbing plant growth +with a second move. However, the seedling +plants will require more attention to weed +control in the larger, permanent site compared +to a smaller transplant bed where the plants are +closer together. If using a transplant bed, dig +the one-year-old crowns the next spring before +growth starts. Use a spading fork, digging 6 +inches under the plants, to gently loosen the +soil and lift the crowns. Carefully separate the +intertwining roots of neighboring plants, then set the crowns +in the permanent site. +Choose a site with good drainage and full sun. The tall ferns of +asparagus may shade other plants, so plan accordingly. Prepare +the bed as early as possible and enrich it with additions of +manure, compost, bone or blood meal, leaf mold, wood ashes, +or a combination of several of these. In heavy soils, double +digging is recommended. To double-dig, remove the top foot +of soil from the planting area. Then, with a spading fork or +spade, break up the subsoil by pushing the tool into the next 10 +to 12 inches of soil and rocking it back and forth. Do this every +6 inches or so. Double digging is ideal for the trench method +of planting asparagus since a 12-inch-deep trench is usually +dug anyway. The extra work of breaking up the subsoil will +be well worth the effort, especially in heavy soil. The trench +is dug 12 to 18 inches wide, with 4 to 5 feet between trenches. +The same method may be used in wide-bed plantings, with +plants staggered in three rows. Mix the topsoil that has been +removed with organic matter, and spread about 2 inches of the +mixture in the bottom of the trench or bed. Set the plants 15 to +18 inches apart, mounding the soil slightly under each plant so +that the crown is slightly above the roots. Crowns should be of +a grayish-brown color, plump and healthy-looking. Remove +any rotted roots before planting. Spread the roots out over the +mound of soil and cover the crown with 2 to 3 inches of soil. +Firm well. As the plants grow, continue to pull soil over the +Environmental Preferences +LIGHT: Sunny. +SOIL: Well-drained, deep sandy loam. +FERTILITY: Medium-rich. +pH: 6.0 to 6.7 +TEMPERATURE: Cool (60 to 65°F). +MOISTURE: Average; a flush of spears often +follows a soaking rain. +Culture +PLANTING: 1-year crowns, early spring. +SPACING: 18 inches by 4 to 5 feet; or in wide +beds of three rows with plants 18 inches apart in all directions. +HARDINESS: Hardy perennial, should be mulched in autumn. +FERTILIZER NEEDS: Medium-heavy feeder, high phosphorus +and potassium and organic matter at planting; annual nitrogen +in late winter or very early spring; may sidedress after harvest; +benefits from early topdressing of compost. +Cultural Practices +Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that will live from 12 to +15 years or longer. It is one of the most valuable of the early +vegetables and is well adapted to freezer storage. During +the harvest period (traditionally spring, but see below for +summer harvest instructions), the spears develop daily from +underground crowns. Asparagus does well where winters are +cool and the soil occasionally freezes at least a few inches +deep; it is considered very hardy. +Start asparagus either from seed or from 1- to 2-year-old +crowns. For fastest results, crowns purchased from a reputable +nursery are recommended. There is risk of disease from less +reputable dealers’ asparagus. Starting plants from seed requires +an extra year before harvest. Seed may be started in peat pots; +they are slow to germinate, so be patient. Seedlings may be +transplanted in June. Crowns are usually shipped and set out +in March or April. +Visit our website: www.ext.vt.edu +Produced by Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, 2020 +Virginia Cooperative Extension programs and employment are open to all, regardless of age, color, disability, gender, gender identity, gender expression, national origin, political affiliation, race, religion, sexual orientation, genetic +information,veteran status, or any other basis protected by law. An equal opportunity/affirmative action employer. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia +State University, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Edwin J. Jones, Director, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg; M. Ray McKinnie, Administrator, 1890 Extension Program, Virginia State +University, Petersburg. +VT/0920/426-401(SPES-250P) +2 +www.ext.vt.edu +crowns (about 2 inches every two weeks) until the trench is +filled. Water if rainfall is inadequate. +According to recent research, total yield is unaffected by +asparagus planting depth; however, deeper plantings produced +larger spears, but fewer of them. Shallow plantings send up +shoots earlier in spring, thus are subjected to possible frost +damage. +Asparagus shoots or spears should not be harvested the first +season after crowns are set. Research plots harvested one year +after planting crowns had a 23% smaller cumulative yield +after five years than did plots harvested for the first time two +years after planting. Harvest lightly for three to four weeks the +second year. The fleshy root system needs to develop and store +food reserves to produce growth during subsequent seasons. +Plants harvested too heavily too soon often become weak and +spindly, and the crowns may never recover. An extra year is +added to the above schedule for asparagus started from seed; +i.e., do not harvest at all the first TWO seasons, and harvest +lightly the third. When the asparagus plants are in their fourth +season, they may be harvested for eight to ten weeks per year. +Weed the bed each spring before the first shoots come up, to +avoid accidentally breaking off spears. During the production +period, it is best to pull rather than hoe weeds if possible. +Harvest spears daily during the eight- to ten-week harvest +period. The 6- to 8-inch spears are best and should be snapped +off just below the soil surface. If the asparagus is allowed to get +much taller, the bases of the spears will be tough and will have +to be cut; cutting too deeply can injure the crown buds which +produce the next spears. Blanched asparagus is a gourmet +item; to blanch (whiten) the spears, mound soil around them +or otherwise exclude light from them so that chlorophyll is +not formed in the stalks. +When harvest is over (after 8 to 10 weeks), allow the spears +to grow. Asparagus has attractive, fern-like foliage that makes +a nice garden border. Some gardeners prefer to support the +growing foliage with stakes and strings to keep them tidy. In +high-wind areas, it is a good idea to plant the rows parallel +to the prevailing winds so that the plants support each other +to some extent. +There are several ways to extend the harvest period of your +asparagus planting. One method is to plant at different depths +(3 inches, 4 to 6 inches, 6 to 8 inches, and 8 to 10 inches). +The shallow plantings will come up first and can be harvested +while the deeper plantings are just forming. This method will +result in a slightly longer harvest, but may result in some plants +being less vigorous than others. +Another way to extend the harvest for a few weeks is to +remove mulch from half of the asparagus bed. Leave the +mulch on the other half. The exposed soil will warm up more +quickly, and the crowns will sprout earlier. This process may +be speeded up even further using black plastic, but be careful +not to encourage growth too early, as heavy frost can make +spears inedible. Remove mulch from the second bed when +spears begin to appear. +A third technique for extending asparagus harvest has been the +subject of university research and is recommended for home +gardeners who have plenty of space. Plant double the amount +of asparagus needed for your household. Harvest half of the +plants as you normally would in spring and early summer, then +allow the foliage to grow for the rest of the season. During the +early harvest period, allow the ferns to grow in the other half +of the asparagus planting. Then, cut the ferns in the second +half in late July. This causes the crowns to send up new spears, +which can be harvested till late in the season. If rainfall is +short in summer, it will help to water this bed for good spear +production. Light mulch will help keep the soil surface from +becoming too hard for the shoots to break through easily. If +using this method, harvest the spring bed only in spring and the +fall bed only in fall! Otherwise, you risk weakening the crowns. +In all asparagus plantings, cut the foliage down to 2-inch stubs +after frost when the foliage yellows, before the red berries +fall off to reduce overcrowding caused by sprouting of selfseeding. A layer of 4 to 6 inches of mulch of compost, manure, +leaves, or other material added at this time will help control +weeds and add organic matter and nutrients. +Common Problems +DISEASES: Rust (use resistant varieties); Fusarium root rot. +INSECTS: Asparagus beetles, cutworms. +CULTURAL: Weak, spindly plants and/or too few spears from +too early or too heavy a harvest; crown rot or poor production +from inadequately prepared, heavy soil; moles/voles can be +a problem. +Harvesting And Storage +DAYS TO MATURITY: 2 to 3 years. +HARVEST: Third year spears; snap off just under soil surface +when 6 to 8 inches tall, before tips begin to separate; use or +refrigerate immediately. +APPROXIMATE YIELDS: 3 to 4 pounds per year, per 10- +foot row. +AMOUNT TO RAISE: 6 pounds per person. +STORAGE: Process or refrigerate immediately in plastic bag. +PRESERVATION: Can or freeze.", +"Developed by James Manning, Undergraduate Research Assistant, and Daniel Brainard, Vegetable Extension Specialist; +MSU Department of Horticulture; Gary Heilig, MSU Extension educator. +Variety selection +In Michigan, the most commonly grown +varieties are Millenium and Jersey varieties +(e.g. Jersey Giant; Jersey Knight). Millenium is a +newer variety from Canada that is well adapted +to Michigan’s climate. It does well on heavier +soils, but is somewhat more susceptible to foliar +diseases than the Jersey varieties. +Preparation and planting +Asparagus is a perennial crop that can be +expected to produce for 10 years or more, so it is +particularly important to take the time to find a +suitable site, and prepare it carefully. Sandy, welldrained soils with pH between 6.8 and 7.5 are +preferred. Relatively high levels of phosphorous +should be provided (up to 200 lbs P/A) and +incorporated before planting. Perennial weeds, +such as quackgrass, should be eliminated before +planting. Plant asparagus crowns in a trench +10 to 14 inches deep. After planting, cover the +crowns with 2 inches of soil. +Care +As new shoots grow, fill in the soil around +them, but don’t cover the tips of the shoots. +Do not harvest the first year after planting and +only harvest sparingly in the second year. Add N +and K sources (about 50 lbs N/A) after harvest +in subsequent years. Asparagus has relatively +low water requirements, and generally doesn’t +need irrigation in Michigan on most garden soils. +However, on very sandy soils, irrigation is helpful +during fern growth. +Major pests +Insects: Asparagus beetle, Asparagus miner. +Diseases: Rust, Fusarium, Phytophthora, purple +spot. +Harvesting and storage +You will get the first large harvest in the third +and fourth years. The season begins in May and +can continue through June. A 25-foot row should +yield 7 to 12 pounds of asparagus. Snap off 8- to +10-inch spears that are less than 1 inch in diameter +before the buds open. Leave those that are smaller +than a pencil. Complete the harvest before July +1. The ferns that grow following harvest should +not be cut until they are completely dead in the +fall or just before growth begins in spring. Store +asparagus under cool and moist conditions, such as +the crisper of your refrigerator. +Asparagus (Asparagus officianalis) +Family: Liliaceae +Hardiness: Hardy +Ease of growing: Difficult +Nutrient needs: Moderate +Water needs: Low +Common propagation: Crowns (one-year-old +nursery grown) +Transplants +Weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 12 +Start: February +Plant out: May +Planning facts +Typical spacing: 12” to 18” in 4’ to 5’ rows +Depth: 10” to 14” trench +Plants per square foot: 0.25 +Time to first harvest: 2 to 3 years +How to grow asparagus +www.migarden.msu.edu +WCAG 2.0 AA +MSU is an affirmative-action, equal-opportunity employer, committed to achieving excellence through a diverse workforce and inclusive culture that encourages all people to reach +their full potential. Michigan State University Extension programs and materials are open to all without regard to race, color, national origin, gender, gender identity, religion, age, height, +weight, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, marital status, family status or veteran status. Issued in furtherance of MSU Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in +cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Jeffrey W. Dwyer, Interim Director, MSU Extension, East Lansing, MI 48824. This information is for educational purposes only. +Reference to commercial products or trade names does not imply endorsement by MSU Extension or bias against those not mentioned.", +"Garden Gate Greenhouse, Inc. +3415 E 500 S +Peru, In 46970 + 765-473-4992 +Compliments of +Harvesting Asparagus—continued +about 4 to 6 weeks. The third year after planting and thereafter, harvesting can continue for +6 to 8 weeks. This will all depend on weather +conditions. +It is best to pick all spears each time, not allowing spears to fern out initially. This is to +prevent asparagus beetles from laying their +eggs in the ferns. A general rule is to stop harvesting when the diameter of most of the asparagus spears becomes pencil thin. +For the last harvest, snap all the spears off at +ground level. To encourage foliage growth for +the rest of the growing season, apply 1 lb. of 12-12- +12 fertilizer per 50 feet of +row. The foliage should be +allowed to remain as long +as it is green. This year’s +growth is making the food +reserves to store for next +year’s crop. +Storage of Asparagus +Asparagus is perishable and should be harvested in the morning when air temperatures are +cool. After picking, immerse spears in ice-cold +water to remove the heat; then drain the water +and place the spears in plastic bags. Store in +the refrigerator at 38 to 40 degrees. Asparagus +will keep for 1 to 2 weeks with little loss of +quality. +Crunchy Almond Asparagus +1 lb. fresh asparagus +2 c. crushed seasoned croutons +8 oz. shredded cheddar cheese +1 can cream of chicken soup +1/2 c. chopped almonds, unblanched +1 T. melted butter +Cut asparagus into 3/4-inch pieces. Cook in 1 +cup lightly salted, boiling water until tendercrisp. Drain asparagus; reserve liquid. Combine seasoned crumbs and cheese; set aside. +Combine soup, reserved asparagus liquid, and +asparagus. Layer 1/2 the crumb mixture in a +buttered 3-quart casserole dish. Top with 1/2 +the asparagus. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Toss chopped almonds with melted butter. Sprinkle over casserole. Bake at 350o +for +30-35 minutes. Yield: 6 servings. +Grace Reed, Mt. Zion +from Homemade Happiness: +Dunkard Brethren Cookbook, 3rd edition, 2007. +How to Grow +Asparagus +For more information on growing asparagus, visit +the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Web site, and download HO-96W, “Growing +Asparagus in the Home Garden.” +Asparagus has been cultivated for over 2,000 +years in the eastern +Mediterranean region. It +was brought to America +with the early colonists. +Its name derives from the Greek word asparagos, which means “sprout” or “shoot.” Ancient +Greeks and Romans prized it for various medicinal qualities. Today, we value asparagus +because it is loaded with nutrients, contains +fiber, folate, chromium, vitamins A, C, E, K, +and the amino acid asparagine. +Asparagus should be considered a long-term +perennial vegetable crop (15 years or more) +that will require generous space, preferably in +an out-of-the-way spot. It grows best in fertile, +well-drained soil in an area that gets at least 6 +hours of sun a day. Soil pH should be 6.5 to +7.5. +Preparing to Plant +Asparagus is most often planted from crowns, +which are the base and roots of +one-year-old asparagus plants. +Plant from early April to late +May after the soil has warmed to +about 50o +F. They will not grow +until the soil warms. If the +crowns are exposed to cold wet +soils over a prolonged period, +Fusarium rot can become a threat. Plant the +asparagus at the west or north side of the garden so that it will not shade other vegetables. +Dig a Trench! +Dig a furrow or trench about 6 inches deep, +piling the excess soil to the sides of the trench. +Scatter about 1 lb. of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 50 +feet of row in the bottom of the furrow. Then +rake the fertilizer in well. This will make phosphorus immediately available to the crowns +without the risk of burning them by direct contact. +Carefully spread crowns to loosen them, then +place in the furrow, about 18 inches apart. If +the crowns seem too +stiff, soften them ahead +of time in water. If you +plant more than one +row, space the rows five +feet apart from center to +center. There are two +schools of thought on covering the crowns. +Some prefer to loosely backfill the trench to a +little over its original soil level, taking care not +to compact the soil. Others prefer to cover the +crowns with about two inches of soil, then, as +the shoots emerge, continue to sift soil into the +trench until it is slightly mounded at the top. +Weather may dictate the best method for you. +Heavy rain could cause problems with the second method. +Weed Control +Weed control is essential to establish a strong +asparagus bed. Early hand pulling of weeds, +hoeing, and cultivating are the best methods. +An organic mulch can also help to suppress +weeds. Note: the dense fern canopy that +forms later will also help to shade out weed +growth. +Do not use salt as a weed +killer! This is an old homespun remedy. Although salt +will not harm the asparagus, +it inhibits water penetration +in the soil. More important, +rain can leach the salt out of +the asparagus bed and into +the rest of the garden, injuring other vegetables. +Harvesting +You do not have to wait two years after planting to harvest asparagus spears. Research +shows that harvesting one year after planting +stimulates more bud production on the +crowns. Harvest asparagus +by snapping 7 to 9 inch +spears with tight tips. It is +best not to cut asparagus below the soil with a knife, as +this may injure other buds on +the crown. +Most often, the first year after planting, you will harvest +several times throughout a +three-week period. Two +years after planting, the harvest can increase +to +How to Grow Asparagus", +"Caring for the Site +For the first two years, gently pull weeds taking care not to disturb the asparagus’ +roots. Water regularly but do not allow the bed to become +saturated. While the asparagus plants are becoming established water them once or twice a week. +After the first season, if the area has no measurable +precipitation, water once a week. +Fertilize in the spring. In the fall, after the +foliage dies, cut it off about an inch above +the ground and lay it on the bed to +provide protection during the winter. When winter ends, destroy the +foliage as it may harbor disease. +Add an inch or two of mulch +each spring. Inspect the plants +regularly looking for signs of +disease. +Planting +Recommended varieties include Jersey Giant, Jersey Prince, Jersey Knight, and Millennium. Starting with crowns, as opposed to seeds, is recommended as it cuts down on the +length of time from planting to harvest. Plan to plant the crowns two to four weeks before +the last average frost date in your area. +• Soak the crowns in water for approximately twenty minutes. +• Dig a trench that is six inches deep and twelve inches wide. +• Lay the crowns eighteen to twenty–four inches apart in the trench and fill with about two or three inches +of soil on top of them. +• Examine the site weekly looking for plants to emerge. +• When they emerge add another inch or two of soil. +• Repeat this process until the trench is completely filled in, leaving a small mound to allow for future +settling of the soil. +• Add an inch or two of mulch to smother weeds and conserve water. +Selecting and Preparing a Site +Choose a site that is well–drained and receives eight or more hours of full sun daily. A loose, +deep soil is preferable. Late spring frosts can damage the plants so find an area that is not +low-lying or exposed to frost. If the asparagus bed will be part of a larger vegetable garden, +choose an area that will not be shaded by other plants. +Prepare a four feet wide bed, removing all weeds and their roots. If planting more than one +row, allow for five feet between rows. Add a generous amount of well–composted manure or compost. Incorporate the nutrients recommended by the soil test results into the top six inches of soil. +Asparagus plants may take 2 to 3 years to get started but, once established, can be productive for +15 to 20 or more years. Before planting asparagus, have your soil tested to determine if it has the +right amount of nutrients for asparagus to thrive. It is best to test and prepare the soil a year prior +to planting. +Growing Asparagus +Developed by the Pennsylvania Department of Education and Penn State University (Project PA). +This project has been funded at least in part with Federal funds from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The contents of this publication do +not necessarily reflect the view or policies of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, nor does mention of trade names, commercial products, +or organization imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. USDA is an equal opportunity provider, employer, and lender. +Harvesting +Do not harvest during the planting year. Asparagus needs time to develop strong crowns. +Harvest during a couple weeks in the second year and for up to two months in the third +year. +Harvest asparagus shoots when they are six to eight inches tall shoots by cutting them with +a sharp knife or scissors at ground level. Stop harvesting when the diameter of the spears decreases to the +size of a pencil. After harvesting, fertilize the asparagus in early summer. Do not cut down the remaining +ferns in the summer. Allow them to grow and mature as this replenishes the nutrients. Usually in early winter +the foliage will turn brown or yellow. At this time, cut the ferns back to the ground. Fertilize and top with +straw or mulch. Spears will push up through the mulch in the spring.", +"Asparagus +VEGETABLE CROPS PRODUCTION GUIDE +FOR THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES +Prepared by the ADVISORY COMMITTEE ON VEGETABLE CROPS +Published by authority of the ATLANTIC PROVINCES AGRICULTURE +SERVICES CO-ORDINATING COMMITTEE +Introduction +Asparagus is a member of the Liliaceae (lily family) and has separate male and female plants. +Asparagus officinalis is a perennial crop which is productive for fifteen years or more after +establishment. It originated along the seacoasts of Europe and Asia and has been cultivated for +over 2000 years. +Asparagus is adaptable to temperate regions where low temperature or drought give the crop a +rest period. The minimum temperature for germination is 10 C. The optimum range for +germination is 16 to 30 C. The optimum temperature for germination is 24 C. The crop does well +under cool season conditions; however, the rate of growth is temperature sensitive. The length of +time required for the asparagus shoot to grow from 10 cm to 25 cm varies from 5.3 days at a +mean daily temperature of 11 C, to 1.9 days at a mean temperature of 25 C. Rhizome buds form +at temperatures between 16 and 32 C. This plant requires a good water supply but will not +tolerate wet soils. Asparagus is frost sensitive so areas subject to late spring and early fall frost, +should be avoided if high yield is to be obtained. Dormant asparagus crowns are rarely harmed +by winter cold. +The preferred soil is deep, reasonably free of stones and gravel, loose, a fine loamy sand to sandy +loam with reasonable organic matter. Good drainage is essential. Heavy soils such as clay loam +should be avoided. A site should not have had asparagus production in the past. This crop +requires a rooting depth greater than 1.5 m. +The first asparagus harvest occurs in the spring of the third year from planting (1 year old +crowns). A potential yield in the third year would be 1000 kg/ha, in the fourth year 2000 kg/ha, +and in the fifth and succeeding years 3000 kg/ha. Recent cultivar trials show large variations +between cultivars in yield potential during the first few years but no long term data is available. +Presently asparagus is a specialty crop in the Atlantic area and small amounts are delivered to +roadside markets, restaurants and retail stores. However, there is potential for increased fresh +market consumption, export potential and also enough land resources for processed asparagus +production. (White or blanched asparagus is a specialty crop that can be grown). +Nutrient Content: Very good source of Vitamin A and potassium. Good source of Vitamin C. +Contains small amounts of other nutrients including iron. Very low in sodium and calories. 3 to 4 +spears provides 10 kilocalories. +Crop Establishment +Seed harvested from strong, productive parent plants will produce plants that are more +productive and less susceptible to disease than those grown from seed taken from weak plants. +Seed of older varieties are continually being re-selected for increased performance. Many high +yielding F1 hybrid male cultivars are on the market. Male plants are usually higher yielding than +female plants within a cultivar. +Seed Treatment - Asparagus seed is soaked for 3 to 4 days at 30-35 C before planting. This +soaking softens the seed coat, swells the seed, and starts the germination process which results in +earlier emergence of up to one week. There is no advantage if seeding is done into a dry soil. +Seeding/Planting - Asparagus seed should not be planted deeper than 2.5 to 4 cm, depending on +soil type and seeding date. Choose a light, well drained sandy loam seedbed with pH about 6.6 +and free of perennial weeds. Sow 1 kg of seed per 1000 square meters of seedbed, to produce +approximately 25,000 crowns, enough for 1 ha, after plant selection. Select 1 year old crowns the +following spring, weighing 30 to 50g. +Permanent field spacing of the crowns should be in rows 1.25 to 1.75 m apart with 30 to 45 cm +between plants. This requires approximately 20,000 plants per hectare. Close spacing usually +results in higher total yields but the spears are thinner and life of the stand may be shortened. Lift +1 year old plants in early spring. Discard small crowns (under 25 g) and crowns with +close-spaced, narrow buds. Grade plants so that similar sized crowns are planted in the same +field. Plant in furrows 15 to 20 cm deep, shallower on heavier soils. Spread roots as much as +possible, place buds upward and cover with not more than 5 cm of soil. Fill the furrow gradually +by cultivation during the first year. Good weed control will maintain a high plant population and +vigorous growth. +Fields can also be planted with asparagus seedlings that are 8 to 12 weeks old. Start transplants in +containers or cells that are 5 cm or larger. Use a sterilized media containing half sand and half +peat mix. Use normal greenhouse growing practices. Seeds are planted individually in blocks, +modules (large) or flats in February. Transplants are planted to the field in late May. Direct +seeding may be possible in some situations. +Crop Management +Establishment - Site selection and preparation should begin two years prior to planting in order +to properly adjust the pH and eliminate perennial weed problems. It is essential to maintain +healthy fern growth during the first two growing seasons or the crown growth will be restricted +and the plants permanently damaged. Weed control during the first season is easily accomplished +by slowly filling in the trenches during the season. These cultivations can be timed with flushes +of weeds as long as ferns are not covered. During the second year the beds must be kept weed +free, especially during the late summer and fall. Weed competition late in the season will restrict +crown growth. Close attention must be given to insects and diseases that attack young ferns. As +ferns become vigorous and full, diseases can cause the ferns to die prematurely, especially in the +late summer and early fall during periods of humid weather. Fungicides can be applied to control +this foliage decline. +Mature Stands - After the last cutting of the season, plantings are usually disked lightly for weed +control and to incorporate fertilizer. Then the fern is allowed to grow for the remainder of the +year. +Asparagus fern growth should not be removed while it is still green as it supplies food to the +roots. Ferns should be left to trap snow which protects crowns from low temperature winter +injury. The fern can be cut with a rotary or flail-type mower early in the spring and lightly disked +into the soil. This can provide 10 to 15 tonnes of organic matter per hectare. All cultivation for +fern disposal, weed control and fertilizer incorporation should be shallow and kept to a +minimum. +In a vigorous stand the harvest period in year 3 is 1 to 2 weeks, in year 4, 3 to 4 weeks and in +year 5 and thereafter 5 to 7 weeks. Harvest should only proceed if the spear size is large. When +the size starts to decrease then harvest should stop. Over harvesting results in small diameter +ferns which initiate small buds which give rise to small spears the next harvest season. +The fall seeding of rye can be done in late August or early September (if herbicide residues are +low). The rye can be burned down with a herbicide in the spring after mowing the fern and before +fertilizer is applied. The rye will serve to reduce sandblasting. This may result in a slightly later +harvest date. In some fields, this will prevent soil erosion over winter which can be a serious +problem in this crop. +Nutrition +ALL ADDITIONS OF LIME AND FERTILIZER OR MANURES SHOULD BE BASED ON +RECOMMENDATIONS FROM A SOIL TEST. +Asparagus responds to manures. Use it prior to planting crowns and with annual top dressings. +Not only does it contribute nutrients but also significant organic matter to the soil. Caution +should be used with poultry manure as excess nitrogen may be detrimental. +Lime - Lime should be applied to maintain the soil pH in the range 6.8 to 7.0. Asparagus is +particularly sensitive to soil acidity which is a frequent cause of crop failure. Heavy applications +of limestone must be deeply and evenly incorporated to be sure the crown is surrounded with soil +which has a high pH. +Nitrogen - The needs for crown production are lower than in established fields. For crown +production half the nitrogen is applied at planting time and half is side-dressed in August +depending on weather conditions and the vigor of the stand. For new plantings all of the nitrogen +is applied preplant. For established plantings apply half the nitrogen before harvest and half the +nitrogen immediately after harvest. +Phosphorus - This nutrient is important to crown producing fields and new plantings. It is +important to band phosphorus in new plantings to ensure the stand will be well fertilized in this +element as it cannot be effectively applied later. Approximately 450 kg of 0-20-0 mixture should +be banded with the crowns per hectare in addition to the recommended broadcast applications. +Potash - Asparagus has a relatively high potash requirement and an additional sidedressing in +established fields in early August may increase yields the following year. +Micronutrients - Asparagus has a high boron requirement. If a deficiency is suspected apply a +soil spray of 1.75 to 2.25 kg of actual boron per hectare or apply a boronated fertilizer. Also, +foliar sprays of boron may be used. +Sulfur may be beneficial on sandy soils with low organic matter. +Application Method - Generally in established fields nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium and +magnesium are broadcast with shallow incorporation. On newly established fields a wide band +over the row may be used for nitrogen and potash. +Pests and Pest Control +Weeds +Perennial weeds such as quackgrass, must be completely eliminated during the year prior to the +planting of asparagus crowns or seeds. During the establishment year use the ""stale seedbed +technique'', whereby emerged weeds are chemically ""burnt-off'' with a post emergence herbicide +prior to crop emergence. Additionally, herbicide(s) that control germinating weeds +(preemergence) can be applied before and after spear emergence. +Established asparagus can be disked in the spring and then treated with one of several residual +herbicides prior to spear emergence. Alternatively emerged weeds can be treated with a +postemergence ""burnoff'' treatment and then a residual herbicide prior to spear emergence. A +second treatment of herbicide should be applied after the last harvest to provide weed control +through the summer. +Diseases +Fusarium Diseases (fungi) +Characteristics - Growing stalks are stunted, yellow and may wilt. Fern growth is also yellow +and stunted. Crowns, roots and stems may show discoloration of vascular bundles and varying +amounts of decay. +Control - Avoid replanting land which previously grew asparagus. Treat seed and crowns before +planting. To avoid injuring the crowns, do not cultivate deeper than 10 cm. Irrigate sandy soil +under high moisture stress. Use tolerant cultivars. +Rust (fungus) +Characteristics - This is a potentially serious foliage and stem disease which causes elongated +orange red powdery areas on stems and foliage. All commercial cultivars are susceptible to rust. +Control - Disease control is achieved only with thorough spray coverage on a regular schedule +once the disease is observed. This spray must protect the new foliage as it grows, before rust +spores can land on it and germinate (a 7 to 10 day schedule from late May to late August). +Physiological Disorders +Hollow Stem - This problem tends to be more prevalent during periods of warm, wet weather +resulting in rapid spear growth and is found in crops that are ready to be harvested. You may +have a problem in specific years with certain cultivars. Plant vigor and spacing may also play a +role. +Hooking - This results in bent spears. This problem has many causes but is always because of +some sort of injury to the spear - either above or below the ground. Spears will hook into +prevailing winds where sandblasting or cold air is a problem. Under the soil, cutworm feeding, +cutting knives, stones, etc. can cause severe hooking. +Insects +Asparagus Beetle +Characteristics - The adult beetles are 6 mm in length, blueish black in color with three creamy +yellow spots on each wing cover. The larvae are dark gray with black heads. Adults feed on the +asparagus shoots. The larvae feed on the leaves and stems. +Control - Apply insecticides as necessary when damage becomes significant. +Spotted Asparagus Beetles +Characteristics - The adult beetles are 6 mm long and reddish-orange with 6 black spots on each +wing. They feed on the young shoots and fronds. The orange larvae feed inside the berries. +Control - Leave uncut rows in the spring to serve as traps for the beetles. When temperatures are +above 21 C and the beetles are seen on the uncut rows use one of the recommended chemicals. +Cutworms, Tarnished Plant Bugs and Aphids +These insects may cause problems in some seasons but they have not been identified as +significant pests of asparagus in this area. +FOR SPECIFIC CHEMICAL CONTROLS SEE THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES ""GUIDE TO +PEST MANAGEMENT"" FOR VEGETABLE CROPS. +Harvesting and Handling +New plantings can usually be harvested for about 2 weeks in the spring of the third year after +field setting. Harvest by cutting or snapping spears at ground level when 18 to 25 cm tall. In +established plantings, the harvest season is from about May 20 to early July. Harvesting should +be terminated early if emerging spears are too thin to meet the grade standards. Over cutting +causes a rapid decline in stand vigor. Harvesting and trimming must be done efficiently if this +crop is to be profitable. +Storage and Conditioning +Asparagus is usually not stored. It can be kept 3 to 4 weeks when hydrocooled immediately after +harvest and stored at 2 C. Storage at 0 C for more than 10 days can cause chilling injury. High +relative humidity is important to prevent excessive moisture losses. High relative humidity is +obtained by placing the butts of asparagus on wet pads or pre-packaging spears in perforated +bags. A moisture loss of 3 to 6% will markedly affect the quality. The average freezing +temperature of asparagus is -1 C. At 0 C half the initial sugar in an asparagus spear is lost after 2 +weeks of storage, at 10 C it takes 1 week, at 20 C it takes 2 days, and at 30 C only about one half +day. Spears should be held upright to avoid undesirable curvature. +Controlled atmosphere storage benefits asparagus by reducing decay and toughening. When the +temperature can be held between 0 and 3 C, 12 ± 2% carbon dioxide and normal oxygen makes +an acceptable atmosphere; at higher temperatures the carbon dioxide should be reduced to 7 ± +2%. Exposure of spears to ethylene which can cause toughening should be avoided. +Bibliography +(See also General References) +Asparagus Production in California. Feb. 1977. Bulletin # 1882. University of California, Dept. +of Vegetable Crops, Davis. +Insect Pests of Asparagus O.M.A.F. Factsheet. June 1982. Agdex 254/625. R.T. Wirkasch, Dept. +of Environmental Biology, U. of Guelph. +Diseases of Asparagus O.M.A.F. Factsheet. May 1982. Agdex 254/635. R.T. Wirkasch, Dept. of +Environmental Biology, U. of Guelph. +Asparagus Production in Canada. April 1983. L.R. Mapplebeck and H. Tiessen, Dept. of +Horticultural Science, U. of Guelph, Guelph, Ontario. +Sandsted, R.F., D.A. Wilcox, T.A. Zitterand, A.A. Muka. 1985. Asparagus Information Bulletin +202. Cornell Cooperative Extension Pub. 11 pp. +Diseases and Pests of Vegetable Crops in Canada. 1994. The Canadian Phytopathological +Society and Entomological Society of Canada. pp. 43-49 and 404-406.", +"MontGuide +For More Online MontGuides, Visit www.msuextension.org +YARD AND GARDEN MT198365AG Revised 6/19 +Asparagus in the home +garden +by Cheryl Moore-Gough, Extension Horticulture Specialist +This publication offers basic instructions for successfully growing asparagus, +from choosing plant materials to maintaining beds. +ASPARAGUS (ASPARAGUS OFFICINALIS) IS A +perennial plant that will provide delicious and nutritious +food for many years, if started correctly and with proper care +of the bed properly. Asparagus is low in calories and a great +source of vitamins C, A, and K, as well as folate. +Most cultivars of asparagus are hardy to USDA Zone +3, but some cultivars are hardy to Zone 2. Asparagus does +best on sites with moist soil and full sun. Beds reach peak +production in about eight years, when the yield of spears can +reach five pounds per 100 square feet. A properly managed +bed remains productive for 12 to 15 years; some over 30 years +old are still fairly productive. Asparagus tolerates higher soil +salinity than most other garden plants and can be planted in +low, wet areas where other crops will not grow. +Establishing a bed +Plant Materials +Start by purchasing one- or two-year-old crowns, or divide +and transplant old crowns, leaving one bud per division. An +old clump can be divided into as many as 50 new plants. +Direct seeding is possible, but not recommended due to +variability of resulting seedlings. Planting newly purchased +crowns is the most popular way to start an asparagus bed. +Be sure crowns for planting are dormant and have large, +fleshy, whitish-tan roots without mold or rot. +Soil Preparation +Because an asparagus bed will last many years, have the soil +tested prior to preparation to determine existing nutrients +and obtain fertilizer recommendations (see the MontGuide +Home Garden Soil Testing & Fertilizer Guidelines, +MT200705AG, for a list of soil testing laboratories). +Destroy all perennial weeds by mulching or cultivating. +Then spade or till the soil deeply, working in 50 to 100 +pounds of rotted organic matter or compost per 100 square +feet (two to four inches on the bed). +Also apply fresh or highly nitrogenous manure (like +poultry manure) at one fourth that rate (½ to 1 inch). Like +other plants, asparagus needs ample supplies of phosphorus, +potassium, calcium and other minerals, as well as nitrogen. +Planting +In spring, when soil temperatures have reached at least 50°F, +use the trench method to plant or dig individual holes: Dig +your trench 10 inches deep by 10 inches wide with 2-inch +mounds 18 inches apart. Rehydrate crowns by soaking in +tepid water for one or two hours, then spread the roots over +the mounds. Leave 2½ to 3 feet between rows. Or, dig holes +about 6 to 8 inches deep and 10 to 12 inches in diameter. +Place a crown into each hole with the central bud pointing +upward. For either method, fill with about three inches of +topsoil, covering crowns. +As the tips of the young shoots extend above the soil, add +additional soil to the hole. Finish filling the hole when the +tips of the shoots extend above the ground level. +Apply fertilizer at +planting according to +the soil test results. +Most Montana soils +contain adequate +calcium, but acid +soils in the high +mountain valleys and +some sandy soils in +other areas may need +additional calcium. +Follow soil test +recommendations. +Cultivars +Cultivars can be all- or predominantly male. Female stalks +are thicker and produce seeds, while male stalks are more +prolific and smaller in diameter. Rust-resistant varieties are +recommended. +‘Mary Washington’ is the most time-proven cultivar. +It yields well, survives under our conditions, and is rust +resistant. Other cultivars for Montana include the disease +resistant ‘Jersey’ series (including the all-male ‘Knight’ +and ‘Giant,’ and the predominantly male ‘Supreme’), the +predominantly male ‘Millennium’ that is adapted to heavier +soils, and ‘Purple Passion and ‘Pacific Purple,’ which are +photo by Dan Spurr +DOWNLOAD +E WE +FREE +File under: Yard and Garden (Vegetable) +Revised June 2019 +To order additional publications, please contact your county or reservation MSU Extension office, visit our online +catalog at https://store.msuextension.org or e-mail orderpubs@montana.edu +Copyright © 2019 MSU Extension +We encourage the use of this document for nonprofit educational purposes. This document may be reprinted for nonprofit educational purposes if no endorsement of a commercial +product, service or company is stated or implied, and if appropriate credit is given to the author and MSU Extension. To use these documents in electronic formats, permission +must be sought from the Extension Communications Coordinator, 115 Culbertson Hall, Montana State University, Bozeman, MT 59717; E-mail: publications@montana.edu +The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), Montana State University and Montana State University Extension prohibit discrimination in all of their programs and activities on +the basis of race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, and marital and family status. Issued in furtherance of cooperative +extension work in agriculture and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cody Stone, Director of Extension, +Montana State University, Bozeman, MT 59717. +beautiful cut on a slant and eaten raw in salads (they lose +their purple color when cooked). +Weed Control +No herbicide should be used in the home asparagus patch. +Some weed control can be done early in the spring before +spears come up by hoeing or by very shallow tilling. Later, +after the cutting season, hoe or cultivate again to destroy +broad-leaved weeds. Pull grassy weeds. +Insect Control +Asparagus beetle. This insect resembles a ladybug but is +considerably more elongate and can defoliate large areas in +a short time. Handpick the insects or use an appropriate +insecticide registered for their control. +Cutworms. Cutworms cut off underground shoots and +feed on tips of new shoots, causing crooked spears. Remove +injured spears. Inspect the soil around the injured plant and +destroy the worm. Placing a ring of wood ashes around plants +can deter cutworms, but don't let the ashes contact green +plant tissue. +Diseases +Asparagus rust. This disease is more likely to be found in +areas with high rainfall and high humidity. Nevertheless, it +does occur in Montana. Small, reddish-yellow spots appear +on the main stem near the ground and on the slender +branches of the stalks that grow up after the cutting season. +Plant resistant cultivars such as 'Mary Washington' or the +‘Jersey’ series. Burn diseased material or otherwise remove +from the garden. Do not compost. +Harvesting +Don’t harvest the first season, and harvest only lightly the +second. The first full harvest begins in the third season after +planting. Harvest time varies by season and area. In an early +spring in warmer areas or at lower elevations, spears may +be ready for harvest by late April. Gardeners in higher areas +in a cool spring might not harvest spears before mid-June. +Harvest can last up to July 1, but not in every area every year. +Spears are ready to cut when they are eight to 10 inches +tall. Cutting too soon reduces yield; cutting too late increases +spear toughness. +Remove the spears by snapping them off at the soil line or +by cutting them with a sharp knife at or just below the soil +line. Don't cut deep enough to damage the crown. +Avoid Over-Harvest +No planting of asparagus will last long if all spears are +removed every season. Cut spears for no more than the first +six weeks. Stop harvesting when the spear diameter becomes +noticeably smaller. Then let all remaining spears grow into +tall plants (“ferns”). As they die back each year, the sugars +produced by these ferns will be reabsorbed into the plant +roots. Take care to not cut them until they are browning, to +assure strong plants for the following year. +Maintaining Established Beds +Fertilizer. Water and minerals used by the plants need +replenishing. Unless the soil is high in organic matter, apply +nitrogen early each spring at the rate of 1 to 2½ pounds of +actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Every three to five +years, apply 2 to 3½ pounds of actual phosphate (P2O5) per +1,000 square feet and work it into the soil between hills. If +the soil is deficient in potash, apply it at the same rate and +time as the phosphate. Have soil tested if the asparagus patch +appears to be declining. +Mulching. Apply an insulating mulch of straw or similar +material to the bed after the soil freezes and remove it in early +spring when danger of severe cold has passed. If not removed, +it will keep the ground cool and delay emergence of the +spears. This is especially important in cooler locations. +Asparagus plants extend roots and crowns horizontally, +making it difficult to maintain the plants in a straight line. +Acknowledgements +The author would like to acknowledge the original author of +this MontGuide, Bob Gough, former Extension Horticulture +Specialist.", +"Growing Asparagus in Wisconsin +Karen Delahaut +Fresh Market Vegetable Program Coordinator +Asparagus (Asparagus officianalis) is a member of the lily family (Liliaceae). It is +a hardy perennial that will yield for up to 40 years or more once the crop is +established. The fern-like foliage grows to about 4-5 feet tall if the young stems +are not cut. The plants are dioecious meaning that male and female flowers are +borne on separate plants. The female plants will produce spears like the male +plants but they will also produce flowers once the plants are allowed to produce +ferns, thereby putting energy into the production of berries that arise from the +female flowers and taking energy away from rejuvenating the crowns. The +production of seed also leads to seedling weeds growing in the asparagus bed +which will crowd the desirable crowns and reduce their vigor as the seedlings will +compete for water, nutrients, and space. This has led, in recent years to the +production of all male varieties of the crop. These all male varieties are much +more vigorous than the older, open pollinated varieties such as Mary Washington +or Martha Washington. +Asparagus is thought to have originated near the Mediterranean Sea and was a +Greek delicacy. Its culture dates back to about 200 B.C. In Greek, the word +asparagus means “stalk” or “shoot”. Asparagus has been grown in America since +the early settlers came from Europe but it was not until the mid-1800s that it was +planted extensively. +Cultivars: +There are both open pollinated hybrids and predominantly male hybrids. Male +plants yield more than females so I’d encourage you to consider planting one of +them. Some cultivars will have resistance to Cercospora leaf spot, crown rot, +Fusarium wilt, and rust. Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Jersey Supreme, Jersey +Gem, and Jersey King are all male varieties that yield more than Mary or Martha +Washington. This yield increase can be 1 ½ - 2 times that of traditional cultivars. +These all-male varieties are available from the Jersey Asparagus Company +(www.jerseyasparagus.com). +• Jersey Knight is probably the best for the home gardener and has the best +spear quality. +• Jersey Giant is also a popular home garden variety. It is more tolerant of +the cold Wisconsin climate than Jersey Knight. +• Jersey Supreme is a relatively new variety that is also well suited to colder +climates and will produce spears earlier in the season. +Another unique variety is Purple Passion, a purple variety of asparagus for the +gardener looking for a unique crop. Purple Passion was a new variety in 2004. It +produces a purple spear and has s high sugar content. Purple passion will turn +green when cooked. Keep in mind that this is not an all male variety like the 3 +varieties previously listed. +Culture: +Select a site, preferably in full sun, where the plants can remain for years. Deep, +well-drained soils are essential to good asparagus production. +The soil should have at least 2% organic matter and high levels of phosphorus +and potassium before planting. Soil pH should be 6.5-7.5 for best production. Get +a soil test prior to planting and indicate on the form that you are planning on +planting asparagus so recommendations can be made accordingly. +Use transplants of 1-year-old crowns from a reputable dealer that are certified +disease-free. The crowns should be planted in early to mid-spring, depending on +your area. Dig trenches 8 inches deep loosening the soil below and adding +compost to the bottom of the trench. Rows should be 4-6 feet apart and the +plants should be 9-12 inches apart in the row. Place the plants in the trench and +spread out the roots. Cover with 2 inches of soil. Gradually fill in the trench as the +spears begin to emerge. Poor stands result if the plants are covered too deeply +at the beginning. Ridge the soil moderately over the rows after the plants are well +established. +Asparagus plants grow outward from the central crown by fleshy roots called +rhizomes. After 10-15 years the crown and resulting rhizome radius can reach 2 +feet or more in diameter. +After the 8 week harvest period – late June in southern Wicsonsin, fertilize with a +complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to help rejuvenate the crowns that have +been depleted of nutrients during the harvest season. In the fall after the ferns +have yellowed, cut the foliage back to prevent overwintering of the asparagus +beetles and rust in the crop. +Harvest: +Do not harvest the plants until they are well established – generally when they +are 3 years old. Snap or cut spears when they are 8-10 inches tall but before the +tips begin to open. Because asparagus crowns must have a rest period to +rejuvenate before the next crop, stop harvesting when the emerging spears are +about the diameter of a pencil or your little finger. +A unique European production practice used by some market growers is to grow +white asparagus called spargel in Germany. This method includes the exclusion +of light when the spears are emerging. The absence of light inhibits +photosynthesis and thereby the production of chlorophyll which produces the +green color. Using inverted 5 gallon buckets work well in small plantings. The +white spears are more tender and have a milder flavor than the traditional green +spears. Keep in mind that by eliminating the production of chlorophyll, white +asparagus will not have the nutritive value found in its green counterpart. +Pest Problems: +Weeds are a problem in asparagus production. The primary weed problems are +perennial weeds because this is a perennial crop. Avoid planting asparagus in +beds infested with perennial weeds such as Canada thistle, quackgrass, and field +bindweed or eliminate these weeds before planting. If you are plagued with +perennial weeds in existing plantings, you can try using Round-up early in the +spring before the spears emerge or in the fall after you’ve cut back the ferns. +Mulching heavily with organic mulch will prevent the germination of annual weed +seeds. If you plan to use compost as your source of mulch because it will also +add nutrients to the soil, make sure the compost you use has been “hot +composted” to kill any weed or crop seeds that may be present. +Other pest problems include Fusarium wilt which will require you to move the bed +to rejuvenate it and prevent future problems. Fusarium is a soil-borne fungus that +can live in the soil almost indefinitely. It also infects many weed species which +can serve as an alternate host to the disease. It will weaken the crowns thereby +producing smaller spears. +Rust is another disease that plagues asparagus. The ferns of rust-infected plants +will defoliate prematurely or die back altogether so it’s best to plant rust resistant +varieties. In addition to causing fern dieback, rust can also weaken the plant and +predispose it to Fusarium if this fungus is present in the soil. Rust can be +identified by small, yellow or orange spots that first appear on the tips of the +plants. Later in the season, dusty brick-red pustules appear on both the shoots +and the ferns. Rust is most severe in years with heavy rains or high humidity. +The incidence of rust can be reduced by cutting back the ferns in the fall and +burning them so the rust cannot complete its life cycle. +Asparagus beetles are an annual insect pest of asparagus. The twelve spotted +asparagus beetle is more common in Wisconsin than the common asparagus +beetle. Injury first appears early in the spring on the emerging shoots. The +insects feed on the shoots as they develop, causing them to bend in the direction +in which the feeding damage occurs. Once the plant begins to fern, the beetle +populations can increase to numbers that can totally defoliate plants if left +unchecked. Common insecticides used to control asparagus beetles include +Sevin, Dursban and Rotenone. ", +"How to Grow Asparagus +Asparagus is a perennial vegetable and once established can have a productive life of up to 15 years. +The edible Asparagus spears are the young shoots which are produced in Spring. When harvesting for the +season is finished, the shoots are allowed to grow to provide food for the underground root system (the crown). +The shoots grow into attractive fern-like fronds which can reach heights of 1.5-2m under good conditions. In +the winter the shoots die down and are cut at ground level. Growth recommences in late winter-spring when +the spears emerge. Asparagus is frost tolerant and is quite easy to grow. It does well in the Perth metropolitan +area and the South West. +Planting: The prime requirement of Asparagus cultivation is well drained soil and it is best grown in a full sun +position. It is a long term crop which will be in the same spot for years, so choose your site carefully. +When Planting Potted Asparagus Plants: Potted plants can be planted year round. Improve the planting bed +by blending in plenty of Dawson’s Soil Improver to at least a spades depth. Add a sprinkle of Dawson’s All +Purpose Fertiliser or Eco Prime Garden. Potted Asparagus plants are usually seedlings and once planted +should be left to grow for 2-3 years before you commence harvesting. +When Planting Crowns: Asparagus crowns are usually only available in July-August and should be planted +as soon as possible after purchase. Dig a trench 30-40cm deep and 30cm wide, then lay a 10-15cm layer of +Dawson’s soil Improver and Cover this layer with a 5-10cm layer of improved soil. Then make a mound of +soil along the centre of the trench. Crowns are planted top of the mound with roots spread out either side (the +crowns should be placed so that they are about 10cm below the surface soil). Cover the crowns with about 5cm +of soil, then gradually fill to soil level as the plant grows. +Care: Asparagus should be fertilised with Dawson’s All Purpose fertiliser in Spring prior to the spears +emerging and again when you have stopped harvesting spears. Asparagus requires a regular water supply and +in Perth watering will be required from Spring until April-May. The idea being to try to maintain some soil +moisture at all times while the fern is actively growing. To this end the application of a good quality, straw +type surface mulch will greatly assist. In winter the shoots(fern) will start to yellow and die off, so cut the old +shoots off at ground level. +Harvesting: Spears can be harvested when they have grown about 15-25cm above ground level, they should +be cut with a sharp knife just below ground level. No spears are cut during the first season of growth, this +allows the crown to establish itself. In next spring (one year from planting) harvesting should be restricted to +the thickest spears only. In later years you can cut most of the spears that emerge. Remember once spear size +begins to fall off it’s best to allow the shoots to grow to provide food to fuel the crown for the next season. +You need to harvest spears regularly several times a week or even daily as spears emerge very quickly and if +left too long will start to fern out before you get to them. If you’d like to grow white Asparagus, you’ll need to +mound soil up over the rows in late winter to a height of about 30cm and then harvest the spears as soon as the +tips break through the of the surface. +Varieties: Dawson’s sell UC157. Developed by the University of California. Known for very high yields, +UC157 is suitable to growth in warmer areas with mild winters. Smooth green spears, tight tipped, non stringy. +The plant has tall feathery, graceful stems. It is the most commonly grown commercial variety world-wide. +Prepared by Tim Parker. Acknowledgments to P & J Frost in the preparation of this Fact sheet.", +"Growing Asparagus +Asparagus is a good source of vitamins A, C, and minerals and is a highly productive vegetable when grown in +cooler areas. Below is a quick guide for growing asparagus. +Category Directions and Notes +Location • Cool area. +Soil +• Grows well in high pH soils but does not do well if pH is below 6. +• New beds: till in 2-3 lbs of 6-12-12 fertilizer (or similar) per 20 feet of row. +• Established beds: scatter 1-2 lbs of 6-12-12 fertilizer per 20 feet of row before +growth begins in the spring. +Planting +Directions +• Spread a 3” layer of organic matter (manure, rotted sawdust or compost) over the +planned planting area. +• Till or spade to a depth of 10-12” and turn the soil so all organic matter is covered. +After tilling, mark rows 4-6’ apart. +• Dig a furrow 4” wide and 6-12” deep. +• Place the crowns in the furrow, cover with 2-3” of soil and firm the soil around the +roots. Do not fill the entire furrow at once. Plant crowns 6-12” deep in loose soils +and 4-6” in heavier soils. Place crowns 12-14” apart. +• Fill the furrows gradually as the shoots grow. This covers small weeds, and they die +from lack of light. By the end of the first season, the furrow reaches its normal level. +Maintenance +• Asparagus plants like frequent, deep watering. Allow the top 1” of soil to dry before +watering again. +• Control weeds without damaging the spears. +Harvesting +• Harvest spears when they are 4-10” long. +• Cut asparagus spears 1-2” inches below the soil level. At least ½ the length of the +spear should be above the ground. Never cut the spear within 2” of the crown to +avoid damage to the developed buds. +• Harvest asparagus spears from established beds for about 8 weeks. Do not harvest +too soon from a new planting. +• Discontinue harvest when spear diameter becomes less than 3/8”. +• After the last harvest, cut back all top growth. Apply fertilizer and till lightly 1-2” +inches to kill weeds. Cover the bed with a 3” layer of clean straw, compost or other +mulch material, water thoroughly and allow growing the rest of the year. This helps +ensure a good harvest the next year. +Special Notes +• An asparagus planting lasts 15 to 25 years without replanting if it is well cared for +and the climate is suitable. +• Asparagus is grown from 1-year-old plants or ""crowns"". It requires 3 years from the +time the crown is planted until the bed is in full production. Since an asparagus +planting lasts many years, good planting bed preparation is essential. +Varieties • Jersey Giant +Murray’s Info Sheets +P.O. BOX 601, 1525 PORTUGAL COVE ROAD, PORTUGAL COVE, NL, CANADA A1M 3R6 +TEL: (709) 895-2800 • FAX: (709) 895-1000 • E-MAIL: murrays@nl.rogers.com • www.murraysgardens.com", +"Growing Asparagus +for more info: +Toll Free 1800 335 508 +www.seasol.com.au +When to plant +Asparagus can be grown in all regions, but does best in areas +with long, cold winters and mild summers. Check with your +hardware or garden centre for advice on the suitability of +asparagus to your location. +1. Asparagus can be sown from seed, it is the cheapest +option, but take three to four years from germination +to harvest. +2. For a quicker harvest, asparagus is usually planted in +winter when it is available as a crown, the name given to +the dormant root system. +3. Potted plants are also available from spring to autumn and +are ready to plant directly into a prepared garden bed. +Location +• Once established asparagus can grow and crop for 25 years +or more so it’s ideal to plant them in their own garden bed. +• Plants grow best in a full sun position in soil that holds +moisture well, sheltered from wind. +• Too much shade causes asparagus to become spindly with +fewer and thinner spears. +Soil +Asparagus enjoys well-drained +sandy or loamy soil, with pH of around +6.5 to 7.0. Prepare the soil prior to planting +by digging in well-rotted manure and compost or +apply Seasol Liquid Compost. +Some growers recommend planting asparagus +into a trench with a layer of well-rotted manure in +its base. Cover manure with a 5cm layer of soil to +keep asparagus out of direct contact with manure. +A soil rich in nutrients helps build strong plants +so add Seasol Plant + Soil Booster +(100g per m2 +) and a fertiliser such +as PowerFeed Controlled Release +Tomatoes & Vegetables. + Water in well and let the soil + rest for a week or two + if possible. +*Check application rates on product +labels or go to the Seasol website. +Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that dies down in winter and regrows each spring. +It is part of its own asparagus family (Asparagaceae) but was formerly considered part of the lily family, which also +includes onions garlic and leeks. +Asparagus is native across much of Europe. The edible part of asparagus is the new shoot known +as a ‘spear’. Left unharvested, it forms clumps of tall, woody, cane-like growth with +ferny leaves. Asparagus spears are low in calories but high in folates, +dietary fibre and vitamins A, C and K. It can be eaten raw, +steamed, or grilled. +2 +Planting crowns +(the easiest and most popular) +Planting +potted plants +3 +Planting +from seed +1 +Second year’s growth +5 +Third year’s growth +6 +Asparagus harvest +7 +First year’s growth +4 +LIFE CYCLE OF ASPARAGUS +for more info: +Toll Free 1800 335 508 +www.seasol.com.au +*Check application rates on product +labels or go to the Seasol website. +• Plant crowns in winter, burying them in +the base of a 30cm-deep trench. +• Alternatively dig a hole for each crown that’s about +30cm deep and wide enough to accommodate the +crown’s root system. +• Space crowns about 45cm apart then cover with about +5-10cm of soil. As the crown begins to grow, cover it with +more soil until the trench is filled to encourage deep roots. +• Apply a layer of mulch to protect them from cold and +frost and once growth appears water them in with +Seasol or Seasol GOLD for a strong root development +and healthy growth. +2. Planting crowns +• To plant potted plants, simply dig a hole in +well-prepared soil that’s large enough to +accommodate the root system. Plant so the +base of the plant is well covered with soil. +• Make a shallow depression around the plant to capture +run-off and help to keep the plant well watered. +• Water in with Seasol or Seasol GOLD to reduce transplant +shock and aid plant establishment and mulch around the plant. +• Apply a liquid fertiliser such as PowerFeed PRO Series for +Tomatoes & Vegetables every couple of weeks to promote +strong, robust growth and thick stems. +3. Planting potted plants +Growing Asparagus +1. Planting from seed +4. First year’s growth +• Fill a pot or seed tray with potting mix or seed raising mix +and sprinkle with asparagus seeds over the top. +• Cover the seeds with mix and water in with Seasol or +Seasol GOLD for fast germination. +• Pop the the pot or tray in a sheltered position, keep the +soil moist and protect from pests like snails and birds. +• When the seedlings are about 10-12cm high, plant them +in well-prepared soil as above. Take care not to disturb +the roots. +• Every two weeks apply PowerFeed PRO SERIES for +Tomatoes and Vegetables for strong, healthy growth. +• Choose only male asparagus plants for +cultivation (see notes on male and female plants). +• Shoots (spears) appear in spring but don’t plan to eat fresh +asparagus just yet. Leave shoots to grow to help form strong +roots for good future crops. +• Over spring and summer check soil moisture daily and +apply Seasol and PowerFeed PRO Series for Tomatoes & +Vegetables every two weeks for strong, vigorous growth and +to reduce stress from heat and drought. +• Hold off harvesting for the first two years and apply organic +mulch to keep soil cool. +• Keep plants well weeded through summer and apply +PowerFeed Controlled Release for Tomatoes & Vegetables +every 6-8 weeks to ensure strong growth. +for more info: +Toll Free 1800 335 508 +www.seasol.com.au +*Check application rates on product +labels or go to the Seasol website. +5. Second year’s growth 6. Third year’s growth +• Plants will start to yellow off in the first +autumn after planting. +• Without harvest, plants produce stems of ferny growth. +By autumn the stems will yellow and begin to die back. +• Stems can be pruned in late autumn as the plants +become dormant. +• If stems are too thin it could be a case of not enough water +or nutrients. Check soil moisture and remove weeds by +topping up with organic mulch ready for +next year’s growth. +Things to watch out for... +Well grown, asparagus has few pests or disease problems. +Problems that can occur include: +• Thin stems These indicate a lack of nutrients or water. +Improve spear quality by applying a complete fertiliser, +adding a mulch of rotted manure and increasing the amount +and frequency of water. +• Poor soil drainage In heavy clay soil grow asparagus +in raised beds to avoid problems with water logging +or root rot. +• Over watering If plants and leaves are yellow it could be a +sign they are being over watered. Refrain from watering and +check soil before applying more. +• At the end of winter start to prepare for +the first spring harvest and the formation of +long spears by hilling soil over the rows. +• Watch for the spears to appear and harvest the thickest. +Leave the rest to mature as ferny growth. +• In cool areas, produce an autumn crop by cutting mature +growth to ground level in late summer. +• Spears appear from August until September (or later in cool +climates) and can be harvested for up to 10 to 12 weeks from +well-established plants. +Growing Asparagus +Male and female plants +• Female plants have thin stems and form green berries that +ripen to red berries in late summer. +• Male plants have thicker stems and don’t form berries. They +are selected for cultivation. +• If asparagus is raised from seed, both male and female +plants will grow. Cull female plants after their first flowering +and allow male plants to grow for a better crop. +7. Asparagus harvest +• Expect to harvest spears every two to +three days from each plant during peak +the peak growing season. +• Use a long, sharp knife to harvest asparagus +spears cutting below ground once the spears protrude +10-15cm above the soil. +• Cut spears each day as they’ll quickly become tall +and woody. +• After harvest, feed with PowerFeed Controlled Release +Plant Food Tomatoes & Vegetables for strong ferny growth +that feeds the crown. +• Keep plants well-watered (especially if summers are dry) +and free of weeds. +• Yellowing leaves in late summer and autumn indicate that +plants are dying back. Cut plants back to ground level. +Regrowth and harvesting will begin again in late winter +and spring.", +"", +"Page 1 +© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents +Growing Asparagus +Rhoda Burrows | Professor & SDSU Extension Horticulture Specialist +David Graper | SDSU Extension Horticulture Specialist & Master Gardener Program Coordinator +gardens +SOUTH DAKOTA STATE UNIVERSITY ® +AGRONOMY, HORTICULTURE & PLANT SCIENCE DEPARTMENT UPDATED FEBRUARY 2019 +Many look forward to fresh asparagus each spring. +Once established, this perennial vegetable is relatively +easy to grow; in fact, it often thrives in roadside ditches +or abandoned farmsteads in the higher rainfall areas of +the state. An asparagus bed in good soil can easily last +15 years or longer. +There are a number of asparagus species, but only +one, Asparagus officinalis L., is cultivated for food. +Not only is it low in calories, asparagus is an excellent +source of vitamin A and contains significant amounts +of calcium, phosphorus, riboflavin, and vitamin C as +well. In past centuries, it was sometimes prescribed as +a gentle diuretic and kidney tonic. Edible asparagus is +native to Europe, and has been cultivated for over 2000 +years. An ancient Roman author, Cato the Elder, in 200 +B.C. wrote detailed directions for growing asparagus +that are close to current recommendations. +In South Dakota, the eastern end of the state and the +Black Hills are two areas where asparagus can be +grown most successfully, but other areas can grow it if +extra attention is paid to watering during dry spells, and +hardy varieties are used. +Climatic Requirements +During the growing season, warm days and cool nights +with low relative humidity are preferred. Asparagus +produces best when temperatures during harvest range +from 78° to 85°F during the day and 55° to 65° at night. +To be productive, the asparagus plant needs a long +rest period (dormancy); this can be met by cold winter +temperatures or a prolonged period of drought. Cultivars +vary in winter hardiness (see below), but there are a +number that will do well in our state. +Site Selection +Asparagus needs full sun for good production. Good +soil drainage is also essential - the highest yields are +obtained on deep sandy loams, since asparagus roots +may extend six feet deep. Heavy soils that form a crust +after rain or irrigation can damage the emerging spears. +A soil pH of 6.5 to 7.0 is best, but asparagus is quite +tolerant of higher pH soils and salinity. The bed or field +should be fairly level to avoid soil erosion, and avoid +low-lying areas subject to late spring frosts that could +delay harvest and reduce yield. The soil should be free +from stones, which can cause crooked spears. The +field should also be free of perennial weeds, which are +difficult to control as there are few herbicides available +for newly planted asparagus. To avoid root and crown +diseases, choose an area that has not been in asparagus +for the last eight years. +Varieties +Mary Washington and Viking are perhaps the two +varieties that have been most readily available to home +growers through mass markets, although newer hybrids +such as “Jersey Giant” are becoming more common. +It is worthwhile to seek out these newer varieties, +such as the male hybrids “Jersey Giant” or the even +higher-yielding “Jersey King.” These hybrids have been +Page 2 +© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents +developed to have greater disease resistance and higher +yield, along with good cold hardiness, and have done +well in trials in North Dakota and Minnesota. A newer +male variety that has greatly out-yielded other varieties +in many northern trials (including Saskatchewan), +and has also done well in heavier soils, is “Guelph +Millennium”. It tends to emerge about a week later +in the spring than other varieties, which can help it to +avoid spring frosts, and the spears stay tight in high +temperatures, so that it maintains good quality over a +range of conditions. +Growers may also want to consider the novel variety +“Purple Passion”, which has performed well in Iowa +trials. It may have special consumer appeal with its +purplish-colored, tender, large-diameter spears. +Avoid varieties bred in California, such as UC 157, as +they are not hardy enough for us. +Plant options +Asparagus production beds are most often established +from 1-yr-old crowns which are purchased or grown +from seed. Direct-seeding is not recommended, but +transplants grown in a greenhouse or protected area can +also be used for planting the permanent bed. +One-year-old crowns (Fig. 1) are more vigorous and +have greater productivity as compared to 2- or 3-year-old +crowns that suffer more root damage during digging, +which may reduce quality. Good-quality crowns weigh +about 1.5 pounds per 10 crowns. +Fig. 1 One-year-old crown. +Growing Crowns +Crowns can be produced from seed in a separate bed +for later transplanting. If producing your own crowns, +choose soil that is well-drained, deep, loose, and light. +Generally, one acre of seedlings will produce enough +crowns for ten acres of asparagus. There are 900-1200 +seeds per ounce. One ounce of seed can produce 550 +high-quality crowns. You can figure out how many +crowns you need and plant the seed accordingly. For +example: +Area per plant: 4 ft. row spacing x 1.5 ft. between +plants = 6 square feet +Plants per acre: 43,560 (square feet per acre) / 6 ft +per plant = 7,260 plants per acre +To hasten germination, soak the seed for 48 to 96 hours +in warm water before planting; change the water several +times a day to avoid fungal growth. It is also advisable to +use a seed fungicide before planting. Plant seed ½ inch +deep, 2-3 inches apart in rows that are 24-30 inches +apart. Optimal temperatures for germination are 60-85 +degrees F. +Cultivate during the growing season to control weeds. +When seedlings are one year old, they may be +transplanted to their permanent location. Dig the crowns +in the spring before the buds begin to grow. Old plant +tops can be mowed if they interfere with the digging. A +modified potato digger or moldboard plow can be used +to lift crowns from larger plantings. +Transplant production +An alternative to planting one-year-old crowns is to +use transplants, which can be grown in a greenhouse. +To do this, seed can be treated as above, but then +seeded into peat pots filled with a good potting media +(not field soil). Plant two seeds per pot, and thin to +one after emergence. Transplants can be started +either in the early spring for setting out after danger of +frost has passed, or in late summer for transplanting +in mid-September. Transplant when seedlings are 10 +to 12 weeks old into the permanent bed prepared as +for crowns: Pots should be covered with at least one +inch of soil at the time of planting in the furrows, and +the furrows filled in gradually over the season as with +crowns. If peat pots are used, when planting be sure +none of the pot is exposed above the soil as it can act as +a wick, drying out the plant. A transplant starter fertilizer +solution should be applied at the time of planting. +Planting crowns +Discard any small or badly injured crowns. Sort crowns +according to size. Plant crowns of the same size in a +row to avoid competition for food. If needed, crowns +can be stored at 38°-40°F and 85-90% humidity until +planting. Do not allow them to freeze. To avoid decay, +Page 3 +© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents +the crowns should not have any damp or moist areas on +them during storage. Before planting, dip the crown in a +recommended fungicide solution. +Before planting the crowns, prepare the land so the +soil is free of stumps, rocks and other coarse debris +that might cause crooked spears. Any existing weeds +should be controlled; spraying any perennial weeds +with a glyphosate herbicide (for example, RoundUp +or KleenUp) two to three weeks before planting is +recommended. +Open the planting furrow to a depth of 8-10 inches (8 +inches in heavier soils). Position the crowns, upright +with the roots spreading (Fig 2), in the furrow about 8 +inches below ground level and then cover with about +two inches of soil. Close spacing may be practiced in +the home garden, but when planting half an acre or +more, space rows 3 to 4 ½ ft with plants 12-18 inches +apart in the row. +Fig. 2 Planting crowns in furrow +As the crowns grow, gradually work the soil toward +the plants during cultivation until the furrow is entirely +filled. Be careful not to bury the ferns. Each cultivation +should add about 2 inches of soil over the crowns. +Approximately three cultivations should cover the +crowns and completely fill the furrow (Fig 3). Shallowplanted crowns often are injured by spring frosts or by +disking and produce smaller spears. Deeply planted +crowns produce larger spears that emerge later in the +spring. +Fig. 3 Young shoots +Fertilizer +Because asparagus may occupy the land for 15-20 +years, good soil preparation before planting is important. +If possible, apply 5-10 tons of good farmyard manure +per acre or plow down a green manure crop in the fall. +Otherwise apply 600-1,000 pounds of 8-32-16 per acre +(20 lbs per 1,000 square feet or ½ lb per 10 ft of row) +before planting. A soil test (0-12”) is the best way to +determine fertilizer needs, as some soils may require +only additional nitrogen. +Once the crop comes into production, commercial +growers should test the soil at least every other year +for phosphorus and potassium. Broadcast any needed +fertilizer and then either water in or work into the soil by +shallow cultivation. +The crop will also require about 50 lbs of nitrogen +(about 140 lbs of 35-0-0) per acre each year after +planting. Regardless of the general fertilizer practice, it +is desirable to split the nitrogen application, applying half +of the recommended amount in the early spring before +growth starts and half at the end of the harvest season. +For smaller plantings, apply ½ cup of ammonium nitrate +[35-0-0] per 10 ft row in early spring and again after +harvest. The second application enhances vegetative +growth and carbohydrate accumulation which results +in a higher yield the following year as well as improved +plant vigor to survive the winter. +Page 4 +© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents +Cultivation +Keep the field free of weeds. The spears are less +brittle in the afternoon and cultivation is best done at +that time. Once the plants are established, weeding +problems can be reduced by using herbicides in the +rows. Use a windbreak to shield spears from wind +which can damage spears by blasting the spear with soil +particles, or by retarding growth on the windward side +of the spear, causing them to become crooked or misshapened. +Leave the ferns standing in the field in winter months +to help trap snow, which can help insulate the roots +and crowns from low temperatures. In the early spring +before the shoots develop, cut, and burn the old ferns +(to reduce insects and disease) or disk them into the +soil. +Harvest +Do not harvest the first two years after planting, +and then limit harvest in the third year to 2-4 weeks, +depending on the vigor of the fern the previous season. +Established fields may provide a yield of 2,000 to +4,000 pounds per acre (¾ to 1 pound per foot of row +in a home garden), depending on climate and cultural +practices. +Snap spears by hand or cut 2 inches below ground level, +at about a 45° angle, when they are 6-10 inches tall. +Morning harvest is preferred because the spears then +contain the maximum amount of water and stay fresh +longer. +Lignin fibers make asparagus tough and undesirable. +The tip of the spear has less lignin and the amount +increases toward the bottom. The following practices +can reduce lignin in the spears: Snap asparagus, rather +than cutting at ground level, thus leaving most of the +fiber portion (white portion) of the spear in the field. +During cold weather, harvest shorter spears; the longer +it takes a spear to grow, the more fiber it develops. Do +not harvest very small diameter (thin) spears; they have +more fiber on a weight basis. +Cool spears as quickly as possible after harvest in ice +cold water. Store asparagus at less than 36°F, but do +not allow it to freeze. Avoid water stress by wrapping +asparagus in a wet material or in perforated plastic wrap, +or store upright in a bowl with the stems in water. Do +not store asparagus for more than 7-10 days. +Crooked Spears +Crooked spears generally are the result of dirt clods in +the field, hot dry wind in early spring, or injury due to +insects, frost, disking, or heavy soils. Avoid all these +problems to produce straight, marketable spears. +Irrigation +To help plants become established, apply water at +least for the first two years, if possible. Irrigation is not +essential for established asparagus except in drier years +or areas, but it will increase productivity (spear size +and numbers) and longevity of the planting. Avoiding +drought stress will also increase vigor and decrease risk +of infection by Fusarium, a fungal crown rot. +Male vs. Female Plants +Asparagus is dioecious (male flowers on one plant and +female flowers on another plant). Non-hybrid varieties +will have about 5O% male and 5O% female plants, but +many all-male hybrids are available. Female plants are +less productive and have a shorter life because some +of the plant’s energy is allocated to seed production in +the fall. Male plants produce a larger number of spears, +starting earlier in spring, but they often are thinner. +Female plants produce fewer spears, but they are larger +and are produced later in the season. +Diseases and Problems +Since fusarium root rot and crown rot eventually invade +every planting, cultural methods that maintain the vigor +of the plants will help prolong productivity. +Fusarium root rot: The fungus lives in the soil and +enters the plant through the roots. Plant asparagus in a +field that did not have asparagus for the last eight years, +and dip the crowns in recommended fungicide before +planting. Keep the planting healthy by practicing good +cultural methods. +Rust: Cut and burn the tops in the spring, and use +resistant varieties, such as the Jersey hybrids (Guelph +Millennium is more prone to rust). Fungicides may be +used in commercial plantings. +Feathering: Bracts of the spears are partly spread as a +result of high temperatures. +Planning small-scale commercial production: +Prospective growers should always assess their +potential market before planting, as well as the presence +of other growers nearby. Fresh locally-grown asparagus +Page 5 +© 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents +sells out quickly at farmers markets across the state, +and would be a great way to start a CSA season. +Local restaurants may be interested in featuring this +unique vegetable in spring menus. A grower within a +15-minute drive of a population base may also be able +to successfully market as a “pick-your-own,” with about +one acre per 5,000 urban dwellers. Asparagus also may +be harvested and graded according to the specifications +of the local supermarket and sold wholesale to them. +For More Information +• “Fertilizing Gardens in South Dakota” P-00082 +https://extension.sdstate.edu/fertilizing-gardenssouth-dakota +SDSU Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer in accordance with the nondiscrimination policies of South Dakota State University, the +South Dakota Board of Regents and the United States Department of Agriculture. +P-00078", +"Reissued 2020-03-01 1 of 2 +The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person in any of its programs or activities. See the complete Nondiscrimination Statement at ucanr.edu. +November 19, 2011 Growing Asparagus +Originally published in +the Contra Costa Times by Chantal Guillemin, UC Master Gardener +Crowns, whips and spears of asparagus...oh my! +SUMMARY +Advance planning and +some patience can +reward the home +gardener with asparagus +for many years. +Site selection and +preparation, cultivar +selection, planting +technique, disease +control, and harvesting +technique are all +important +considerations. +Q: I am planning to grow asparagus this +fall. How do I get started? +A: A long-lived (8 to 15 years), salt and +drought-tolerant vegetable from the lily +family, asparagus has been cultivated for +millennia on seaside dunes along the +Mediterranean and in the British Isles. +California has several asparagus growing +regions including Contra Costa County. +Asparagus is adaptable, yet it has +specific soil, planting, irrigation and +harvest requirements. +Bed Preparation & Planting: +Full sun, sandy soil with a pH range of +6.0 to 7.5, good drainage, no weeds, +temperatures ranging from 65° to 85° F, +and space are prerequisites for +successful home garden asparagus +production. Proper bed preparation and +build-up of organic matter in the soil +begins at least a year prior to planting. +Select an area that is relatively free of +weeds and that drains well such as a +hillside, and condition your soil by +turning in peat moss, leaf mold, straw, +animal and green manures. +Avoid soils with a high water table as +this could lead to a short stand life due +to unhealthy or diseased roots. October +through March is the best time for +planting transplants or crowns. After +applying a little phosphate fertilizer in +the trenches, plant one year old crowns +with buds pointing upward in the +bottom of a 6 to 8 inch deep furrow. +Space crowns 12 inches apart, in rows 4 +to 5 feet wide, and cover with 2 to 3 +inches of soil. In six weeks, add another +3 inches. Continue to mound the soil +over the plants as they develop to fill in +and form a somewhat raised bed. To +produce enough asparagus for fresh +table use, plant ten crowns for each +family member. +Cultivar Selection: +For an optimum disease-free start, select +year-old field-grown crowns from a +certified grower. In conjunction with the +University of California, California +Asparagus Seed and Transplants, Inc. in +Davis has developed several hybrid +cultivars which include UC 157 F1, +Atlas F1, Apollo, Grande and Purple +ccmg.ucanr.edu November 19, 2011: Growing Asparagus, page 2 + +Reissued 2020-03-01 2 of 2 +“With planning, +preparation and +patience, home +gardeners can grow +and enjoy asparagus +for many years.” +Passion. These varieties differ in spear +diameter (measured at the widest point +of the spear), tip tightness, yields and +tolerance to fusarium root rot, rust and +other fungal diseases. +Disease Control & Watering: +Proper sanitation is an important tool in +controlling asparagus fungal diseases. +For prevention, remove the debris of the +previous year’s fern and destroy or +compost it to kill the over-wintering +pathogens. Wide row spacing may also +help to improve air movement and +drying of the fern. Do not plant a second +crop of crowns in an old asparagus bed +because levels of fusarium are already +high in that location. Severity of the +disease can be reduced by starting out +with non-infected one-year old crowns +grown in uncontaminated soil, and +practicing good irrigation management. +Asparagus requires frequent furrow +irrigations in the spring and near the soil +surface at harvest time. Water +applications are cut back in late summer +and early fall to curtail new fern growth +before winter dormancy. +Harvesting & Post-Harvest Care: +The main harvest season is in spring but +some spears may be cut in September +and October. Do not harvest asparagus +the first growing season. Harvesting too +early and too many results in weakened +plants and small spears. The asparagus +plant needs to grow and establish a +healthy crown, requiring all its energy at +first. +The third year after transplanting, +asparagus can be harvested for two +weeks. A full cutting season (60 to 75 +days) may begin the fourth year after +planting. Harvest whenever the spears +reach 8 to 10 inches, which, in warm +weather, could be every day. Cut at +ground level or snap the spears, taking +care not to damage the emerging ones. +When the harvest season is finished, +allow spears to mature into energyproducing ferns (foliage). Do not prune +or cut back the ferns as doing this could +jeopardize the yield and quality of next +season’s growth. +Immediate post-harvest care such as +washing and cooling can slow fibrous +development and the loss of natural +sugar, flavor and Vitamin C in asparagus +spears. Whips, the small diameter +spears, are usually tougher than the wide +diameter spears. This is because the +tough fibers are in the skin. +For More Information: +With planning, preparation and +patience, home gardeners can grow and +enjoy asparagus for many years. For +more info on growing asparagus, consult +UC publication 7234, available online at: +https://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/7234.pdf", +"1 + + +Asparagus +Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a member of the Lily Family and is a perennial vegetable +that can thrive in the home garden for 25 years or more when properly cared for. +Because an asparagus bed will last for many years, it is wise to plant only carefully selected, +disease-free roots. Check with your supplier for new varieties. +Soil Preparation: +Asparagus can be grown in a variety of soil types but best results are generally obtained on +well-drained, sandy loam soils. Frost and light freezes injure emerged spears, therefore, locate +the crop in areas that are as frost-free as possible. +Because of the length of time the land is occupied by an asparagus bed, it is very important that +the soil be of high fertility and in good physical condition before the plants are set. +Lime & Fertilizing +Asparagus will not tolerate extreme acidity, and should be grown on soil with a pH range of 6.5 +– 7.0. Have your soil tested by the UMass Soil and Tissue Testing Lab +(www.umass.edu/soiltest) and follow the recommendations given. Strongly acid soils should be +limed according to recommendations. + +In addition to organic matter and line, 1.2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer should be broadcast per +100 square feet prior to planting. +Natural Fertilizers +Natural fertilizers can be effective when the right choice is made from the many types available. +Planting +Asparagus plants or crowns are grown from seed. However, the home gardener will usually find +it best to grow asparagus from one-year-old crown bought from a reputable grower. +Never use two or three-year-old crowns. Two-year-old crops may have been over-crowded in +the nursery with intertwined roots and are much more subject to injury when dug and sorted. +Therefore, use only one-year-old plants. The crowns should have large, well developed root +systems with large, well developed buds. +Asparagus should be planted with other perennial crops on the north or east side of the garden +so it will not shade other vegetables or low-growing fruits. +Follow these steps for planting asparagus: +- Apply recommended amounts of lime and fertilizer to the asparagus bed. +- Rototill into the soil. +- Make a 6-inch deep, V-shaped furrow. +- Place crowns at the bottom of the furrow with the buds on top and the roots spread out. +2 +Space crowns twelve inches apart within the row and allow four to five feet between rows. If +only one asparagus row is planted, allow at least three feet between the asparagus and the +closest other vegetable crop. +- Cover the crowns with one or two inches of soil and firm over the roots. +As soon as the young shoots (spears) appear, carefully add more soil around plants in furrow, +but avoid covering asparagus foliage. When spears grow 10 to 12 inches high cultivate or hoe +beds in order to partially fill the trench and control weeds. Repeat this procedure two or three +more times until the trench is finally filled. The furrow should be filled level by the end of the first +growing season. +Watering +Adequate soil moisture is important during the first growing season. Water thoroughly once a +week until the soil is moistened 8 to 12 inches deep. +After the first growing season, asparagus plants do not require frequent irrigation because of the +deep and extensive root system. They should be watered if long, dry periods occur, however. +Annual Maintenance +For the first and second year after planting do not cut any spears in order to allow the plants to +become well established. Early in the spring of the second growing season, remove the old +stalks and overwintering weeds. Broadcast lime as needed to maintain the proper soil pH. +Before the spears appear, apply 1.2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet and +cultivate lightly into the soil. +In July of the second growing season, sidedress with another 1.2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer +per 20 linear feet of row. Prevent burning the roots by applying it three to four inches away from +the plants. +Remove brush during each succeeding spring before the asparagus emerges and broadcast +lime if needed. At the same time, spread 2.5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. +Rake the fertilizer and lime one to two inches into the soil, taking care to avoid damage to the +asparagus crowns. +Weed Control +Weeds shade asparagus, compete for water and nutrients, and reduce yield. Cultivate to control +weeds when the weeds are small, in order to avoid damage to crowns. +Asparagus can always be mulched to control weeds. Use organic materials such as leaves and +straw. +It is important to control weeds right from the start to prevent problems in the future. +Pests +The principal insect pests are cutworms and asparagus beetles. Common disease include +fusarium root-rot and asparagus rot. Avoid fusarium root-rot by planting only disease-free seeds +or crowns and never plant in beds that previously grew asparagus. +Other Problems +Problem: Asparagus tough and pithy +Cause: Insufficient fertilizer; poor soil preparation, low pH; spears are getting to old before +cutting. +3 +Problem: Crooked spears +Cause: Injury to buds and immature shoots underground; careless cutting; or cutworms +Problem: Plant vigor declines, spear size decreases, feeder roots are reddish brown color +Cause: Fusarium root-rot +Problem: Tips soft and whitish in color +Cause: Frost or light freeze injury +Harvesting +Asparagus must be grown in a permanent bed for two full growing seasons before harvest +begins. This is necessary to allow the plants to develop an adequate storage root system to +produce spears during the first harvest season and beyond. Any harvesting or damage to the +brush during the first two growing seasons dwarfs the plants and can be reduce yields for the +life of the bed. +A good general rule for length of harvest season is the 2-4-6 week sequence. Harvest for two +weeks the third year the plants are in the garden, four weeks the fourth year, and six weeks the +fifth and following years. +When the first spears emerge in the spring, merely snap off the spears with tight heads, 7 to 10 +inches long, leaving the tough stub on the plant. The upper portion that snaps off should be +green and tender. Harvest all spears that come up during the harvest season. +Two to three weeks after beginning harvest, 5 to 6 inches of soil may be carefully ridged over +the row. This lowers the temperature around the crown and increases spear size. The ridge +should be raked level right after the last harvest. +It is best to prepare and use asparagus as soon as possible after harvesting. However, +asparagus will maintain fairly good quality for several days if the spears are kept at 35-40F. To +store, was the spears, place the cut ends in a shallow pan of water and immediately put them in +the refrigerator. +UMass Extension Agriculture and Landscape Program 4/12 +UMass Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer, United States Department of Agriculture +cooperating. Contact your local Extension office for information on disability accommodations. Contact the +State Extension Director’s Office if you have concerns related to discrimination, 413-545-4800 or see +www.extension.umass.edu/civilrights/.", +" +3352 N Service Dr. +Red Wing, MN 55066 +www.sargentsnursery.com +P: 651-388-3847 +E: sargents@sargentsnursery.com +Growing +Asparagus +Resource: UMN Extension +Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis L.) is one of the earliest producing vegetables each spring. It +is dioecious, meaning that there are female and male plants, but only female plants produce +berries. Generally, female plants produce larger spears, and male plants produce a greater +number of smaller diameter, more uniform spears. Most of the newer hybrids, such as Jersey +Giant, are all male plants, producing no seeds. +Asparagus is a perennial plant that comes back from the same expanding root system every +year, and needs the rest period that freezing winters provide. A bed of asparagus can last 15 +years or more, so choose the bed site carefully. Choose a fertile, sunny, well-drained site with +good moisture. Late spring frosts can kill emerged spears, so find an area that is not low-lying +or susceptible to frost. Because asparagus plants have deep root systems, avoid areas with +shallow soils or soils prone to water-saturation. +Common varieties are the older Washington series (Mary, Martha, and Waltham), the newer +hybrids such as the Jersey series (Giant, Knight, Prince), and an open-pollinated variety called +Viking KB-3. Although all of these varieties have done well in Minnesota, the Jersey series can +suffer winter kill in northern Minnesota at –30° F if there is inadequate snow cover. +PLANTING +Asparagus can be started from seeds in a nursery bed, and then transplanted to its final +location in the second year. Use seed with a high germination rate, plant seed as soon as soil +is workable, into level ground with sandy soil about one inch deep and spaced about two +inches apart within rows. In the next year, dig crowns in early April before buds start to grow, +and transplant them to the desired location. Direct seeding is not recommended because it +would be difficult to establish a good stand due to slow seed germination and competition from +weeds. Alternatively, purchased crowns can be planted. +Most people plant asparagus from purchased crowns because this is easier and you get a crop +at least one year earlier than if planting seeds. If buying crowns, try to purchase ones that are +one-year old. Older crowns can be damaged during transplanting. Plant crown buds upward in +a trench or furrow, about 12-18 inches apart and 6-8 inches deep. Cover the crowns with 2-3 +inches of soil immediately after planting to keep them from drying out, and then continue to +add soil as the shoots emerge, until eventually the furrow is filled by the end of the first growing +season. Asparagus crowns will continue to enlarge both vertically and horizontally over several +years so planting at the appropriate depth is critical. The consequences of planting too +shallowly could result in premature spear emergence in the spring increasing risk of freeze +damage, and winter kill of the crown. +SOIL PH AND FERTILITY +It grows best in soils with pH of 6.5-7.0, and does not tolerate extreme acid soils. Have your +soil tested to determine its pH and whether you need to amend it. It is best to test soil at least +every 3 years and follow test recommendations. You can add some well-rotted manure or +compost, or a garden fertilizer. +In the second and third years after planting, you can incorporate well-rotted manure, compost +or fertilizer in the spring prior to spear development, and again as the soil warms up. Addition +of manure or compost can add micronutrients and organic matter to soil (see Composting and +Mulching). After the planting is established, it is generally unnecessary to add fertilizer until +after harvest because the root system can store large amounts of nutrients. +WATERING +Adequate soil moisture is necessary at planting for good root and fern development. Although +asparagus plants have deep roots, most of the water uptake takes place in the top 6-12 inches +of soil. Asparagus plants will not show signs of drought stress, so use extra care to ensure that +there is adequate water during the growing season. +CONTROLLING WEEDS +Eliminate all perennial weeds before planting crowns. Annual weeds can be managed using +shallow cultivation and by adding 3-4 inches of mulch on top of beds. Do not till soil more than +3-4 inches deep to avoid damaging feeder roots. +HARVESTING +Asparagus needs 3 years to develop a large root system. Spears may be harvested for +two weeks the season after it is planted and up to four weeks the 2nd year. A full harvest +is ok in the 3rd year. Leave the old asparagus ferns until spring before chopping or mowing +them. After spears appear, harvest when they are 6-8 inches long. Snap spears off at the soil +surface. Do not cut the spears because of the danger of damaging neighboring spears not yet +emerged. Allow spears remaining after July 1 to develop into ferns. +COMMON PROBLEMS +Insects +The most common insect pests on asparagus in Minnesota are the common and spotted +asparagus beetle. They primarily damage asparagus by feeding on the spears resulting in +browning and scarring. The feeding can also cause asparagus shoots to bend over into a +shepherd’s crook. +Diseases +Common diseases of asparagus include asparagus crown rot, asparagus rust , and purple +spot. Asparagus rust causes yellow to rusty orange spots to form on asparagus stems after +harvest. These release powdery orange spores that can easily be seen if a white tissue is +rubbed across the infected stem. Purple spot causes sunken purple spots on asparagus +spears, and tan spots with a purple border on mature stems. Plants suffering from crown rot +have poor growth; leaves and stems may yellow and die back. When cut open infected crowns +are brown and decayed. +If rust or purple spot appears in the garden remove and destroy all fronds after the first hard +frost in the fall. Plant new asparagus plants far enough apart so that there is room for good air +circulation around mature plants.",