text, """How To Grow Potatoes In A Greenhouse You can easily grow potatoes in a greenhouse so you can harvest your favorite varieties all year round. Plus, growing potatoes in a greenhouse, hoop house, or cold frame not only keeps potato plants safe from frost but also numerous pests. You can grow potatoes in raised beds, grow bags, or pots, so you can even do it in small spaces. To grow potatoes in a greenhouse, you’ll want to first find seed potatoes of your preferred variety, then decide on a location. You can grow potatoes in a raised bed, but any container that’s at least 24 inches tall and about 18 inches in diameter will do. When done right, you can get continuous harvests of potatoes that taste better than anything you can find in the store. So are you ready to get your hands dirty and learn how to grow potatoes in a greenhouse? Read on! Quick overview of growing potatoes in a greenhouse Type: cold-season crop Time from seed to harvest: 80-100 days Germination temp: 4°C Time until first emergence: 14-28 days Best temp to grow: 18-21°C Height: 18-36 in Spread: 18-36 in Grow from seed: 7-8 in deep, 10-12 in apart in rows 36 in apart; Companions: cabbage, corn, chives, cilantro, leeks Keep away from: tomatoes, eggplants, fennel, pumpkins, root vegetables The benefits of growing potatoes in a greenhouse Garden potatoes are typically planted a few weeks before the last frost date, or when the soil is at least 7-12°C. In most regions, this is usually around April. But in warmer climates, potatoes are often planted in the fall or even winter for a spring harvest! Because they are frost-tender and don’t love extreme heat, potatoes grown outside are limited to the seasons. In a greenhouse, however, you can control variables such as light and temperature, allowing you to extend the growing season. This way you can easily have several harvests of potatoes in a single year, or more! You can grow potatoes in the winter There’s nothing quite like a freshly-harvested potato. Like tomatoes, they taste remarkably better fresh than they do after weeks or months of storage. In winter, grocery stores typically only stock a handful of potato varieties that have been kept in storage since the previous season or have been imported from abroad. With a greenhouse, you can plant potatoes using a method called succession planting, planting potatoes in intervals so you can have regular, extended harvests! Depending on your climate, you can grow potatoes this way in the winter even in an unheated greenhouse. Even in colder climates, you can continue growing your potatoes through the winter as long as you supplement with some heat and light. How to pick the right variety of potato to grow Did you know that there are thousands of varieties of potatoes? Historically, they’ve been cultivated throughout the Andes, particularly in Peru, but over the last two centuries they’ve become one of the top food crops in the world. Grocery stores typically only carry a handful of the most popular potatoes, such as Russets or Burbanks. When growing potatoes at home or in your greenhouse, you can choose from many different kinds of potatoes, which is both an exciting and daunting opportunity. To make it a little easier, we’ll help you understand the three main kinds of potatoes, and some of our favorite varieties to grow in the greenhouse! First early potatoes First early potatoes are also known as “new” potatoes because they’re typically the first ones to be harvested. These varieties are usually planted a few weeks before the average last frost date because they can tolerate a light frost. For that reason, first early potatoes are a particularly good option for growing in a greenhouse during the winter, especially an unheated one. Our favorite varieties of first early potatoes to grow in the greenhouse include: Yukon Gold, Dark Red Norland, and Purple Viking. Second early potatoes As suggested, second early potatoes, or mid-season potatoes, take a few more weeks to mature than first early potatoes. They taste best when just harvested, so they’re a great option to grow at home for year-round eating. An often-overlooked advantage of growing first early or second early potatoes is that they tend to be less prone to common potato diseases, because the potatoes are harvested before the disease has had a chance to take hold. Our favorite varieties of second early potatoes to grow in the greenhouse include: Kennebec, Red Chieftain, and Gold Rush. Maincrop potatoes Maincrop potatoes, or late-season potatoes, take the longest to mature and set good-sized potatoes. Due to the longer growing season, these varieties tend to be better for long-term storage and are more often found in grocery stores. Maincrop potatoes are a good option for greenhouse growing if you have a short growing season but would still like to grow some good storage potatoes. These potatoes tend to be great options for baking, mashing, or frying. Our favorite varieties of maincrop potatoes to grow in the greenhouse include: Burbank Russet, French Fingerling, and German Butterball. How to plant potatoes in a greenhouse Depending on your greenhouse setup, you have several different options for planting potatoes. You can either choose to grow potatoes in pots or raised beds, and both have some distinct advantages. Planting in pots vs. raised beds Planting potatoes in pots or planters makes growing potatoes easy. When placed in your greenhouse, your potatoes are safe from many animals, pests, and diseases, but also give you the flexibility of moving them around. While any pot at least 24 inches deep and 12-18 inches wide will be able to accommodate 1-2 potato plants, you can also find many specialized potato planters. Compared to other pots, these planters have openings that allow for observing your potatoes as they develop and harvesting “new” potatoes without digging. It’s important that the container you choose is deep enough to add more soil as the plants grow in a process called hilling. This protects your potatoes from the sunlight and results in a better harvest. While growing potatoes in a container is easy, you can also plant your potatoes in raised beds with no issues. Just make sure that the bed is deep enough for the roots to develop properly, and that you have room to hill the potato plants several times through their growing season. Planting preparation When planting potatoes in a raised bed, you can plant them just as you would if you were farming an open field. Keep in mind that potatoes thrive in loose, well-drained soil, so the beds should have compost or high quality potting soil. Potatoes are also high feeders, so it’s a good idea to mix in some organic fertilizer at the time of planting. If choosing to plant in containers, you might consider choosing a planter bag made of fabric or sturdy plastic. These flexible bags are great for growing potatoes because they allow the spuds to grow relatively freely. Whichever method you choose, it’s good to chit your potatoes first. This process is simple: just set the seed potatoes out in a dark spot in your greenhouse to allow them to start developing some sprouts on the eyes! Lastly, because potatoes are sensitive to freezing temperatures, it’s important to either heat your greenhouse or use frost covers if there are indications that the temperature may fall below freezing. How to plant seed potatoes Planting potatoes is incredibly easy. Just keep these tips in mind: Make sure to only use certified seed potatoes that are disease-resistant and haven’t been treated with sprout inhibitors. Examine the seed potatoes thoroughly before planting and cut off all symptoms of rot. Larger seed potatoes can be cut in multiple pieces that have at least 1-2 eyes. Seed potatoes smaller than an egg should be planted whole. Allow at least 24 hours for cut exteriors to harden before sowing, or the seed potato may rot in moist soil before it has a chance to sprout. Some gardeners allow the seed potatoes to grow sprouts before planting by leaving them in a dark and warm place 16-29°C. If you do this, be careful not to break the sprouts off when handling. When planting in a raised bed, plant seed potatoes about 12 inches apart (eye side up!) and space the rows about 3 feet apart. Cover the potatoes with approximately 3-4 inches of soil and water well. How to care for potatoes in a greenhouse To ensure a good crop of potatoes, you can’t just leave them alone and forget about them for 4 months. Luckily, it doesn’t take a lot of effort to care for potato plants. Hilling up potato plants Unlike most plants, potato plants will develop new roots (and tubers) when the stem gets covered up in a process called “hilling up.” There are a few reasons why hilling up is important for potatoes. First, if potatoes are exposed to daylight, they will start to turn green. While the chlorophyll isn’t dangerous, it indicates the presence of solanine, a toxic compound that can cause headaches or nausea when consumed. Another purpose of hilling potatoes is to improve the harvest, as more potatoes will develop along the submerged stem. The best time to start hilling is when your plants attain a height of 8-12 inches: Add more soil or compost along both sides of the stem in a hill formation. When growing in containers, simply add more soil to the pot. Proceed to “earth up” every time the plants are at least 4 inches above the soil. If you are planting in a container, continue hilling until you are up to 2 inches from the top of your container. Hilling up has the added benefit of preventing weed problems, cooling the soil, and preserving moisture. At the end of the season, you can reuse the soil in the garden or add it to your compost pile. Water requirements Your potatoes will rot in the soil if they are overwatered, but that doesn’t mean they should sit dry, either. Make sure to water your potato plants regularly, especially when tuber-formation begins. Remember that soil in containers dries out faster than in raised beds, so be prepared to water more often. Maintain a moist (but not soggy) soil when the potato plants begin sprouting until a few more weeks after blossoming. Avoid watering too much in the first few weeks after planting to avoid the seed potatoes from rotting or developing disease. It is best to use rainwater from a water barrel instead of tap water. Tap water usually has a neutral to high pH or alkaline and potatoes grow best in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.5. They can develop scab in more alkaline soils. Soil requirements Potatoes are heavy feeders, so make sure to plant them in rich soil with organic fertilizer mixed in. Potatoes grow best in an acidic soil between 5 and 5.5, in more alkaline soils potatoes tend to develop scab. You can test your soil pH easily at home, and amend if needed with sulfur or pine needle mulch. Another tip to get near-perfect skins for your potatoes is to put the compost into a shredder to make a fine blend. Common potato pests and diseases One of the most common issues with home-grown potatoes is the development of scab, or rough patches on the skins that are tough and ugly. Potato scab is usually caused by high pH levels in the soil, which can be amended if necessary. Every potato grower’s worst fear is potato blight, which usually emerges after a period of warm, wet weather. If your greenhouse is particularly warm and humid, you’ll have to keep an eye out for signs of blight. You can grow early potatoes to further reduce the risk, but make sure to always use fresh soil and rotate crops in raised beds. Aphids are small pests that may feed on foliage and spread viral diseases. They extract fluids from the leaves and stems of your potato plants, which may cause serious damage. Insecticidal soaps are effective at controlling infestations, or you can manually remove the bugs with a jet of water. Colorado potato beetles can be handpicked or be eaten by birds. If you see more of them, you can apply an organic pesticide at dawn or dusk to prevent hurting beneficial insects. How to harvest your greenhouse-grown potatoes Potatoes, especially those of the earlier varieties, take between 80-100 days to mature. Cut off the water supply about a week before the anticipated harvest date. This helps to ensure the soil in your greenhouse or planter is dry enough for harvesting. After your potato plants start to flower, you can collect some early “new” potatoes. The plant heads will die back eventually, at which point the whole crop can be harvested. Dig gently with a garden fork to avoid puncturing the tubers. For potatoes grown in containers, simply empty out the soil onto the ground or in a wheelbarrow and separate your potatoes by hand. Ensure you harvest all tubers no more than a few weeks after the vines die back so that the tubers don’t rot in the ground. Harvest your potatoes on a dry day to simplify your job. A wet soil could mean that you will have to wait until the potatoes are air-dried before placing them into bags or boxes. Storing your potatoes Greenhouse-grown potatoes are best eaten the day they’re harvested, but they can be stored if needed. Store potatoes in a cool dry place preferably around 7-16°C for up to a couple of weeks. This will let their skins cure and help them last longer. Brush off any remaining soil after curing. Don’t wash the potatoes unless you are ready to cook them. Washing them may reduce their shelf life. Place them in a dark and humid place with a temperature of around 3-4°C. Also, don’t put your potatoes near apples to prevent them from spoiling. Apples contain ethylene gas which makes them ripen faster. Don’t refrigerate your potatoes.""", "HOW TO GET EARLY POTATOES IN THE GREENHOUSE At one time the potato was something you would feed the pigs with, but today it is almost like gold, and we fight so valiantly to get the gold and be among the first to get it. You can easily join this fight when you have a greenhouse. The easiest way to cultivate potatoes in your greenhouse is to use a container. It does not matter whether it is an old rain boot (which by the way can be quite decorative), a large biscuit tin, a plastic bag or a bucket as long as there is a drain in it so the water can drain away. HOW TO DO IT Choose an early sort There are several hundred different varieties of potatoes, but you need to get hold of those that are the earliest to crop. I will recommend: “Solist”, “Hamlet”, “Frieslander” and “Sofia” Seed potatoes or your own potatoes You can use your own potatoes from your garden or table potatoes you have bought. If you choose to use your own from the garden, you must make sure that they are free of diseases. If they are not, they can infect your new potatoes. You can also buy seed potatoes which are not infected with any viruses, but they may have other plant diseases so check that they are healthy-looking before you buy them. Seed potatoes should have a medium size. Pre-germination To pre-germinate means that you prepare the potatoes for sprouting. Sometimes the potatoes have already begun this process when you buy them. There are two ways. The first method says that you can place them somewhere dark and with a temperature of 22 degrees for 14 days. When the shoots are 5 cm long, they are moved to somewhere with more light at a temperature of 15 degrees. Hereafter they are ready to be put outside after a couple of days. A more common method is to place them somewhere with light at 16 degrees Celsius for 6 weeks. This makes the shoots thick and they do not easily break. But both methods work, and if you want, you can try both and see what works best for you. Transplant in buckets When your potatoes have been through the pre-germination process, you can transplant them to buckets. The benefit of this is that you can take out the buckets in case the potatoes are not ready when you are about to transplant tomatoes. Tomatoes and potatoes together are not a good match. The first thing I do is to fill the buckets with soil. Then a lump of sheep wool (not a must), the potato on top of the wool and then soil again. Wool is good to store water even when it is being decomposed to fertiliser. Tips Boe Jørgensen, an experienced Danish horticulturist, shares the method he uses when cultivating in the greenhouse. First week in March Place the pre-germinated potatoes in milk or juice cartons without a bottom and with some topsoil the first week in March and place them in a plastic bucket filled with 5 cm peat. Plant the potato in the middle of the carton with soil on top and under it. Soak the soil in the carton and place the bucket somewhere inside the house where the temperature is between 15-20 degrees. The peat in the bucket should always be fairly moist. Between 25th and 28th March Now the potatoes can be transplanted to the greenhouse. This is done in 12 litres buckets with compost. Remember to irrigate. (Boe has an automatic irrigation system). Especially while the potatoes are forming tubers, they should never be in need of water. Potatoes are not frost resistant so if there is a chance of days or nights with frost they must be covered. You can for instance use bubble wrap. One time Boe had to use a warming cable. Alternatively, you can use a greenhouse heater. Should they get damaged by the frost, then the buds will start coming up again, but this will delay the project. Potatoes are ready to be harvested 15th May. Duration From pre-germination to transplantation 5-6 weeks From planting to harvesting 80-100 days The potato sort determines the usage The potatoes that most of us know are the potatoes called table potatoes. As previously mentioned, there are many potato varieties. And some sorts are more suitable for mash or backed potatoes compared to those you use for boiling or roasted potatoes. If you make backed potatoes, it is best if they are not too firm. And if it is for mashed potatoes, they must be able to become mushy after they are boiled.", "What are the Ideal Conditions for Greenhouse Tomatoes? Tomatoes grow in relatively warm temperatures, making them the perfect greenhouse crop. Compared to outdoor tomato cultivation, growing in a controlled greenhouses increases yields and quality, reduces pests and diseases, and increases the growing season. Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables (well, fruit…) in the world. So, it’s no surprise that they’re one of the most common crops in commercial horticulture. In fact, in 2020, over 185 million kgs were grown globally, on over 5 million hectares. Tomato plants have a relatively short growing season, contrasted by a high demand year-round. Which is one of the main reasons growers around the world choose to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse. The ability to control the temperature, humidity level, and lighting, allow growers to provide ideal growing conditions throughout the year. In most of the world, this wouldn’t be possible without a controlled environment. Optimal Growing Conditions for Tomato Crops Greenhouse cultivation has many benefits, but not without challenges. Cultivating tomatoes in a closed environment requires growers to create the optimal growing conditions, rather than rely on the weather. This guide will help you provide the ideal tomato growing conditions. It’s important to remember, however, that specific conditions may differ between different tomato varieties. Ideal Temperature for Tomato Greenhouse Maintaining the right temperature is one of the most basic functions of greenhouse, regardless of how technological or advanced it is. Providing optimal temperatures allows the plants to take in and break down nutrients as efficiently as possible. This leads to faster growth and fruit development. If conditions are too cold, or too warm, the plants will experience stress, which affects growth, as well as quality. In a temperature-controlled environment, there’s no reason to reach temperatures outside of the ideal range. The ideal temperature for tomato cultivation is between 21-27°C (70-82°F). This range is also best during pollination. These temperatures are considered optimal for day time. During the night, tomato crops may enjoy lower temperatures, reaching 16-18°C (62-64°F). Tomato plants grow best within this range, meaning they will exhibit the quickest development, largest yields, and highest fruit quality. However, depending on the variety, they may be able to grow well between 15-32°C (59-89°F). The ideal temperature to germinate tomato seeds is between 18-29°C (65-85°F). Ideal Temperatures for Tomato Cultivation: Day time – 21-27°C (70-82°F) Night time – 16-18°C (62-64°F) Seed germination – 18-29°C (65-85°F) How to Maintain Optimal Temperatures for Tomatoes Maintaining the right temperature for tomatoes differs from greenhouse to greenhouse. Some greenhouses are located in warmer climates than others. So, while most greenhouses require heating, some actually need cooling to reach the ideal range. You can use ducts, heat pumps, boilers, chillers, HVAC, or other forms of air conditioning depending on your local climate. Ideal Humidity for Tomato Greenhouse Humidity, like temperature, has a major impact on tomato plants’ growth, development, yield and quality. In order to reach full potential, it’s important to maintain the right relative humidity level, or VPD range. Outside of the ideal range, plants will struggle to perform physiological tasks, such as taking in nutrients or performing photosynthesis. When humidity is too high, the tomato plants won’t be able to evaporate water through their stomata. This stops them from being able to take in more water and nutrients from the soil, inhibiting development. Low humidity, on the other hand, will lead to water stress. In this case, the stomata close, in order to retain water. This has a similar effect, in which the plant shuts down important processes, slowing down growth and development. It’s also important to note that many common diseases and mildews develop in high humidity, including botrytis and powdery mildew. So, maintaining ideal humidity levels also protects against diseases and reduces crop loss. The optimal relative humidity level for tomatoes is between 60-85% RH. However, you can improve growth further by dialing in different relative humidity set points for night and day. During the day, tomato plants may enjoy higher humidity levels of 80-85% RH. However, during the night, when the plants are less active, humidity levels of 65-75% are ideal. The ideal relative humidity level for pollination is around 70%. In higher humidity, pollen may stick together, making it harder to disperse. In lower humidity, the plants’ stigma tends to dry out, reducing its ability to collect pollen. In terms of VPD, the ideal range for tomatoes is generally between 0.5-0.8 kPa. However, higher VPD levels may be better during later developmental stages, such as flowering. In these stages optimal VPD levels can reach 1.2 kPa. Ideal Relative Humidity & VPD for Tomato Cultivation: Day time – 60-85% RH Night time – 65-75% RH Pollination – 70% RH VPD – 0.5-1.2 kPa How to Maintain Optimal Humidity for Tomatoes It’s important to note that tomato crops, like all plants, release water vapor. So, in fact, they increase the humidity levels around them. In a closed environment, this will inevitably lead to high humidity. Humidity is a complex issue. There are numerous factors that impact it. So it may be difficult to predict relative humidity levels at all times, throughout the growing space. Some factors that directly affect humidity include temperatures, grow lights, irrigation systems and airflow. In most cases, greenhouse growers will need to reduce humidity, rather than increase it. There are two main methods to do so – through heating and ventilation, or through dehumidification. Heating and venting is the traditional way greenhouse operators deal with humidity. It involves opening up windows and vents, in order to let the humid air out. However, releasing air from inside and introducing outdoor air affects the conditions inside. In most cases, the air outside is cooler, meaning it lowers the temperature inside the greenhouse. That means you need more heating to compensate for the heat loss. Heating and venting may be useful and even efficient when weather outside is fair. However, this method is highly inefficient in cold, humid, or rainy conditions, requiring a lot of additional heating just to maintain temperatures. Additionally, this method might not work in high humidity or rain, leaving growers with no solution. So, in most climates, the only way to fully control humidity and ensure ideal conditions, is to use dedicated dehumidifiers. Dehumidification systems that are designed for greenhouse use provide the most comprehensive and energy efficient way to control humidity. In fact, using DryGair has been found to save an average of 50% on total energy consumption, compared to ventilation. Use Air Circulation to Further Improve Conditions Another important part of humidity control is air flow. While maintaining an overall ideal humidity level is crucial, conditions can vary throughout the greenhouse. Most importantly, humidity may be higher between densely placed plants, or inside the foliage. These pockets of humid air are known as microclimates. They can be detrimental to tomato plants, slowing down growth and leading to disease outbreaks. This is especially problematic with grown tomato plants, due to the high amounts of foliage. Different types of tomato crops may be more at risk from this issue, such as determinate tomatoes with many side shoots. However, indeterminate varieties aren’t risk-free, and still require comprehensive humidity control. Maintaining constant air movement helps disperse these microclimates. But not all airflow is equally effective. Air circulation is a type of airflow in which the air is circulated throughout the entire space. As opposed to simple horizontal or vertical fans, air circulation doesn’t create multiple competing airflow directions. Rather, it creates cohesive air movement. This doesn’t just disperse humid microclimates, but also creates uniform conditions throughout the entire space. All DryGair units include a patented air circulation module that ensures ideal conditions at all points in the greenhouse. This is a critical part of tomato cultivation, significantly reducing common disease outbreaks, such as botrytis. Additional Tips for Greenhouse Tomato Cultivation Creating ideal growing conditions is key to producing large yields of high-quality tomatoes. However, there are additional things you can do to further improve growth, prevent diseases, and save money by reducing energy costs. Avoid Wet Surfaces Some of the most common molds and mildews require water in order to develop. So, the most effective way to avoid these detrimental diseases is by avoiding the presence of water in your greenhouse. There are two ways in which free water reaches the greenhouse. First, is through irrigation. When plants are watered from above, some of the water remains on the leaves and fruit. Under these conditions, disease development and spreading are very likely. To prevent plants from getting wet, water or add the nutrient solution straight to the soil or potting mix. The second way in which water appears in the greenhouse is through high humidity. When relative humidity reaches 100%, water starts to condense on various surfaces, including railings, equipment, and even on the plants themselves. However, proper humidity control and air circulation prevent this condensation from occurring. Keep Space Between Plants High humidity and wet plants become increasingly problematic the more crowded the greenhouse is. When plants overlap, they prevent air from flowing between the leaves and increase the amount of moisture within the foliage. This makes it incredibly difficult to maintain ideal humidity levels between the leaves, where it matters most. So, in order to be able to control conditions, it’s important to have enough space between plants. Of course, this can work both ways. Proper dehumidification reduces the overall humidity level and provides powerful air circulation, allowing you to decrease the space between plants. It’s all about creating the right balance for your growing facility.", "How Long Does it Take to Grow Tomatoes? We’re sometimes asked how long it takes to grow tomatoes. It’s a good question, so we thought we’d take the opportunity to answer it here. With a Click & Grow smart garden, you can produce a mini tomato harvest starting from 98 days after planting. In this article we’ll look at some key things to remember when growing tomatoes indoors and outdoors. Growing tomatoes in a smart indoor garden If this is your first time growing Click & Grow mini tomatoes, here’s a quick timeline of what to expect at each growth stage. A Click & Grow mini tomato plant pod contains pre-gardened tomato seeds. The optimum indoor room temperature for growing mini tomatoes is 68°F – 95°F. 7 - 21 days: When sprouts appear, thin your tomato seedlings to one per pod. This will help your plant get the space, light and nutrients it needs. 22 - 39 days: Stake tomato plants when they’re young. It will help them grow upright and bear the weight of their fruit later on. 40 - 60 days: You’ll start to notice yellow flowers on your plant. Be sure to pollinate them by shaking the plant to mimic a bee. Alternatively, use your index finger or a small brush to transfer pollen from one blossom to another. 61 - 72 days: Don’t be alarmed if you notice yellow petals falling off. Not every flower produces fruit but you’ll be rewarded with some delicious tomatoes later on. 73 - 89 days: Around this time your plant will produce tomatoes that look green. They won’t turn red until they reach maturity. 90 - 110 days: Your plant will start to produce beautiful ripe tomatoes. Once they’re red, they’re ready to eat, although the taste becomes even sweeter if you let them continue to grow for another 1-2 weeks. Enjoy every bite knowing your Click and Grow Mini tomatoes have 2.5 times more antioxidative activity and 2 times more lycopene than any other type of tomato! For more plant tips, be sure to download the Click & Grow mobile app. Simply register your smart garden and plant on the app and we’ll send you tips to guide you through each stage of your plant’s life cycle. Growing tomatoes outdoors Growing tomatoes outdoors is a little more complicated and there are a few things to keep in mind. After transplanting young plants to their final growing spot, it usually takes anywhere from 60 days to more than 100 days before you can harvest your tomatoes. Before growing varieties of tomatoes outside, the first thing to do is make sure you live in a tomato-friendly climate. Tomatoes grow best when the temperature is between 65°F and 85°F during the day. They stop growing if the temperature reaches above 95°F. If you live somewhere with a short growing season, it may be worth starting your plants indoors and transplanting them when the weather warms up. Click & Grow smart gardens (particularly the Smart Garden 9), are suitable for pre-growing tomato seedlings indoors. You can then plant them outdoors when they’re ready to move out. We offer experimental pods which enable you to do just that. For instance, you can pre-grow tomatoes in your indoor garden during spring and later plant them in a greenhouse once it’s warm enough. Two of the most popular tomatoes to grow are globe tomatoes and cherry tomatoes. Globe tomatoes are the most common type of tomato - deep red and full sized. Cherry tomatoes are their miniature, bite-sized counterparts. When researching which tomatoes to plant, it’s also worth noting the difference between determinate tomatoes and indeterminate tomatoes. Determinate tomato plants stop growing at a certain height, whereas indeterminate varieties continue to grow and produce tomatoes throughout the growing season. Tomato plants are usually started indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date for your area. Transplant them outdoors when the soil reaches about 60°F. Tomatoes require soil that’s well drained and rich in nutrients. The best tomatoes are still grown in traditional ways by people who understand what they're doing, so if you're trying this for the first time, don’t be shy to ask around and see if there are some experienced vegetable gardeners who will mentor you. Here are some quick tips for getting started: Choose a spot where tomatoes will get at least 8 hours of sun every day. Prepare the soil by digging it up, removing rocks, weeds and roots and adding compost to it. Add organic fertilizer too if you want to increase the yield of your tomato plants. Spread the seeds out on top of the soil, about 1 inch apart from each corner to corner. Water your seeds every day until they sprout. Watch as your tomato seedlings grow up from the ground. Nutrition Did you know that tomatoes are made up of about 95% water? They’re undeniably low in carbs. The bulk of their carbohydrates are made up of simple sugars and insoluble fibers. Tomatoes are also a great source of dietary fiber. An average sized tomato provides you with 1.5 grams of fiber. In addition to that, tomatoes are natural sources of vitamin C, vitamin K, potassium and folate. Studies suggest that tomatoes may improve heart health. An example of this is how tomato products can fight inflammation and signs of oxidative stress. There’s also research that suggests tomatoes promote skin health. For instance, tomato-based foods that are rich in lycopene may protect against sunburn.", "General Advice Potatoes always do best in full sun. They are aggressively rooting plants, and we find that they will produce the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil with a PH of 5.0 to 7.0. Fortunately potatoes are very adaptable and will almost always produce a respectable crop, even when the soil conditions and growing seasons are less than perfect. Always keep your potato patch weed-free for best results. Potatoes should be rotated in the garden, never being grown in the same spot until there has been a 3-4 year absence of potatoes. When to Plant Potatoes Potatoes may be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the early spring, but keep soil temperatures in mind. Potato plants will not begin to grow until the soil temperature has reached 45 degrees F. The soil should be moist, but not water-logged. Potatoes can tolerate a light frost, but you should provide some frost protection for the plants if you know that a hard, late season freeze is coming. If you want to extend storage times, and have a long growing season, you can plant a second crop as late as June 15 and harvest the potatoes as late as possible. Cutting Potatoes Before Planting A week or two before your planting date, set your seed potatoes in an area where they will be exposed to light and temperatures between 60-70 degrees F. This will begin the sprouting process. A day or two before planting, use a sharp, clean knife to slice the larger seed potatoes into smaller pieces. Each piece should be approximately 2 inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 eyes or buds. Plant smaller potatoes whole. A good rule of thumb is to plant potatoes whole if they are smaller in size than a golf ball. In a day or so your seed will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help prevent rotting. Planting Potatoes in the Garden We find that potatoes are best grown in rows. To begin with, dig a trench that is 6-8 inches deep. Plant each piece of potato (cut side down, with the eyes pointing up) every 12-15 inches, with the rows spaced 3 feet apart. If your space is limited or if you would like to grow only baby potatoes, you can decrease the spacing between plants. To begin with only fill the trench in with 4 inches of soil. Let the plants start to grow and then continue to fill in the trench and even mound the soil around the plants as they continue to grow. Prior to planting, always make sure to cultivate the soil one last time. This will remove any weeds and will loosen the soil and allow the plants to become established more quickly. How to Water Potatoes Keep your potato vines well watered throughout the summer, especially during the period when the plants are flowering and immediately following the flowering stage. During this flowering period the plants are creating their tubers and a steady water supply is crucial to good crop outcome. Potatoes do well with 1-2 inches of water or rain per week. When the foliage turns yellow and begins to die back, discontinue watering. This will help start curing the potatoes for harvest time. When to Harvesting Potatoes Baby potatoes typically can be harvested 2-3 weeks after the plants have finished flowering. Gently dig around the plants to remove potatoes for fresh eating, being careful not to be too intrusive. Try to remove the biggest new potatoes and leave the smaller ones in place so they can continue to grow. Only take what you need for immediate eating. Homegrown new potatoes are a luxury and should be used the same day that they are dug. Potatoes that are going to be kept for storage should not be dug until 2-3 weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully dig potatoes with a sturdy fork and if the weather is dry, allow the potatoes to lay in the field, unwashed, for 2-3 days. This curing step allows the skins to mature and is essential for good storage. If the weather during harvest is wet and rainy, allow the potatoes to cure in a dry protected area like a garage or covered porch. Storage Conditions At Seed Savers Exchange. we are able to store potatoes well into the spring in our underground root cellar. Try to find a storage area that is well ventilated, dark, and cool. The ideal temperature is between 35 and 40 degrees F. Keep in mind that some varieties are better keepers than others. Varieties like Red Gold and Rose Gold are best used in the fall, and others like Carola and Russets are exceptional keepers. Saving Seed Stock Home gardeners can save seed for several generations. Save the very best potatoes for planting. You may find that after several years the size begins to decrease; this is typical. Potatoes are very susceptible to viruses. If you are looking for maximum yields it is best to start with fresh, USDA Certified Seed Stock every year. In collaboration with University of Wisconsin-Madison researchers, SSE is working to eradicate viruses from heritage potatoes in order to safely preserve potato genetic diversity and to offer high quality seed potatoes.", "How Long Do Potatoes Take To Grow? It’s safe to say that growers love to watch their crops grow. We wait patiently for each sprout to mature and produce perfectly ripe fruit or vegetables. But when it comes to root vegetables, we can’t just watch and wait. We have to time the harvest just right. Pull your produce too early, and you’re stuck with unripe, tiny veggies. Wait too long and you take a risk of the crop being overripe – or even beginning to rot underground. How long do potatoes take to grow? Many things influence how long potatoes take to grow. Variables such as the potato variety, climate, seed preparation, and amount of fertilizer all play a part. Taking all these things into account, the average length of the growing season for potatoes is between 90 to 120 days, or 3 to 4 months. The following factors all have their part to play in how it takes potatoes to grow Choosing early, mid-season, or maincrop varieties The climate of your country Seed preparations such as chitting Potato planting date Desired size at harvest Choosing early, mid-season, or maincrop varieties There are three main types of potato varieties and, while some are ready in just under 3 months, some take an extra month to mature. Early varieties or new potatoes will be harvested earlier in the year than maincrop. Early varieties do not necessarily mean they grow faster – just that they are ready earlier in the year. The same goes for mid-season and maincrop. All potatoes take roughly the same amount of time to grow it’s just that their planting dates determine the time of year they are ready to harvest. Earlies Early potatoes planted in mid-February may only be ready by the middle of July which is around 112 days. It may be possible to harvest at 100 days in warmer climates or if they grow really well. You can start harvesting them as soon as the first large tubers appear – these tender young spuds can be very tasty. Their thin skin means the potatoes need to be eaten within a few days or they will spoil. Mid-season Usually, mid-season potatoes are planted in mid-March and ready by August again around 120 days. A mid-season potato is deemed mid-season as this is the optimum time of year the variety has been bred to grow. Maincrop Maincrop or late-season potatoes take between 100 to 120 days to grow and mature. They are usually the highest-yielding potato varieties and are designed to grow to full maturity and have thick skin for long-term storage. Maincrop potatoes are bred to mature later in the year so they are harvested in colder weather, enabling farmers to use the colder months to store them well. The climate of your country The first thing you’ll need to consider is your local climate. Potatoes don’t like very warm weather. This means that you can begin planting as soon as the danger of frost has passed and you’re able to work the soil. In more Northern regions, it can be a gamble to plant early potatoes earlier than March. But you can cover young shoots with plastic containers, burlap sheeting, or mulch overnight to protect them from late frosts. Temperature On the other hand, if you live in a very hot climate, you may need to plant earlier – like in December or January. You may need to avoid the extreme heat of summer – it can wreak havoc on your crop. Closer to the Equator, potatoes are even grown as a winter crop and you may be planting in November or December. It’s really all about the soil – we need both the right temperature and humidity levels. At planting the soil temperature should be at least 10°C (50°F). It should also be dry enough not to stick together – not only will clumpy soil be hard to plant in, but seed potatoes can rot if the soil is too wet. Sunlight Your potatoes will grow best in a sunny location with cool, loose, well-drained soil. The ideal temperature range is 16 to 20 degrees Celcius. Plant your potatoes away from high trees or hedges which prevent sunlight from getting to the plants. Rainfall If your climate has low rainfall, you will most likely need to water your potato crop. Growing potatoes require at least an inch of rain a week to grow well. Do all potato varieties take the same time to grow? More or less. Most potatoes can be harvested between 90 and 110 days after planting. Seed preparations such as chitting If planting earlies, you should prepare your seed potatoes ahead of planting by “chitting” them. Find a warm frost-free place that is quite dark. Stand your seed potatoes in an egg carton or seedling tray with the rose end (where you see the most eyes, or small dents) pointing up. When the shoots are about 2 cm (1”) long, prepare them for planting, by bringing them into the daylight where the buds will go from white and brittle to soft and green – perfect for planting with. This method can also be useful for maincrop potatoes. You can begin the process indoors while there is still frost in the garden. This lets you get a jumpstart on the growing season. Potato planting date Planting time varies, depending on your location and the type of potato you’re growing. In colder regions, you’ll want to plant slightly later, and in warmer climates, you can plant a little earlier. If growing in containers, then you can also plant anytime as you will be indoors. As a general rule, early potatoes should be planted by March. Mid-season varieties are typically planted by April and maincrop late-season potatoes by the end of May. While healthy potato plants can tolerate light frosts or even a mild freeze, they can’t survive hard freezes. Potatoes should be planted in cool weather – after the danger of freezing has passed, but well before hot weather sets in for the summer. Potato size at harvesting Early potatoes are harvested from late June onwards and maincrop potatoes are harvested from September onwards. A good rule of thumb is 100-120 days after planting. You can also watch your potato plants for signs that your crop is ready to harvest. You can begin to harvest earlier if you prefer smaller potatoes or you can leave them in the soil for longer if you prefer larger potatoes. You can check for new potatoes a few weeks after the plants have finished flowering. With their thin skins, these baby potatoes won’t be cured or stored, so only pull enough for 2-3 days, and be sure to store them somewhere cool. When the foliage begins to yellow and die back, your potatoes will be almost ready. You can stop watering your crop at this point, and when the plant tops have completely died, you can begin to harvest the potatoes. When growing with optimum fertilizer rates, your potatoes may begin to get too big. You may need to stop the crop growing by spraying with a crop desiccant or cut the tops down to soil level. Digging your potatoes Start by digging up a test hill to determine if your potatoes are mature enough to harvest. The skins of mature potatoes are thick and firmly attached to the flesh. If the skins are thin and rub off easily, your potatoes should be left in the ground for a few more days if you intend to store them Remember that although potatoes can tolerate a light frost, you will need to dig them out before the first hard frost is expected. You shouldn’t wash newly dug potatoes – the freshly harvested tubers need time to cure and for the skins to dry before they can be stored. You can cure your crop by arranging the potatoes to have good airflow through them and allowing them to sit at room temperature for about two weeks. Once cured, the potatoes can be stored in a cool, dark place for 6 months or more. Factors affecting maturity As mentioned earlier, chitting or pre-sprouting your potatoes will help cut the outdoor growing time by at least a couple of weeks. Covering your young potatoes at planting can help them become established as well as protect them from late frosts. You can use plastic containers, mulch, or even an old blanket. Leaving your potatoes vulnerable to frost can definitely lengthen maturation times, and also puts them at risk of dying. Using fertilizer will also help your plants grow well and increase their yield. You should add a suitable potato fertiliser when planting your seed potatoes. If you feel they are lacking in size later in the year – say at flowering – you can add more if you feel they need it. The fertiliser can be homemade fertiliser or bought in. A note about adding a large amount of fertiliser is that it can extend the growing season of the potato. So although your potatoes will be bigger, they can take longer to mature. Summary Before you put any potatoes in the ground you should have the season ahead planned from planting to harvest. You should know the type of potatoes, if they’ll be chitted, when they should be planted, how much fertilizer you’ll use, and when they should be ready to harvest. Salad or baby potatoes will take the shortest length of time to grow at around 80 days, then early and mid-season varieties at 90 to 100 days, and finally maincrop potatoes which can take 100 to 120 days on average. Good luck!", "Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke www.agrico.co.ke Agrico PSA Potato growing guide for farmers in Kenya Potato farming can be a great venture if done well. Sadly, many farmers do not have the right information on how to manage their potato farm and get maximum yields. The purpose of this Potato Growing Guide is to share our experience growing potatoes in Kenya successfully, and help farmers understand the basic needs and inputs for good potato farming so that potato farming becomes enjoyable and profitable. SEEDS: When you use good and certified healthy seeds your crop will perform better and you should expect higher yields than from uncertified or recycled seed. Please note, some people will speak of ‘clean seed’; it is never clean and disease-free until lab analysis by KEPHIS confirms so. Therefore, we always recommend, to buy certified seed. When collecting the seeds from the seed merchant Agrico PSA, the farmer is advised not to store the seed for more than 5 days. Potatoes should not be stored in a space where other potatoes are kept, where other foodstocks, chemicals or fertilizers are kept. The storage space needs to be disinfected prior to use. If potatoes are stored temporarily, it should be in a dry, dark, very well-ventilated place where temperatures don’t go below 10 degrees or above 20 degrees, and the potatoes can not be affected by rodents or insects, or other elements of nature. Be careful when transporting your seeds. Do not transport potato seeds in an open truck. If it rains and the potatoes get wet, they can start rotting within 24 hours. Potatoes should not be transported in a truck together with any other products, especially with ripening fruits. Fruits emit high levels of ethylene, which can damage the sprouts and stop the potatoes from germinating. Potatoes should not be transported in a truck that carries or has carried fruits a day before. If that is the case, make sure the truck is cleaned and keep the doors open for a long time to reduce the level of ethylene prior to loading. Just plant one variety in the field or, in case of more varieties, have them properly separated for easy management. Different varieties may mature at different times, or may need different agronomical management. Note that there is no risk of cross pollination in potatoes. The temperature of the seeds shouldn’t be too low. If too low the seeds will take a longer time before germinating. Agrico PSA supplies the seed at the right temperature, and farmers can store it above 12 degrees Celsius for maximum 5 days. Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke www.agrico.co.ke We advise the farmer not to de-sprout the seeds if the sprouts are more than 1cms. This is to prevent uneven growth and yield reduction. We also discourage splitting of seed in two or four, a practice sometimes done by farmers. This practice can cause a lot of viral and other disease transmission. GOOD SEEDS ARE EXPENSIVE TO BUY, BUT WILL ASSURE YOU OF A GOOD CROP! All farmers are advised to buy seeds from a certified seed multiplier. Agrico PSA’s varieties are restricted by plant breeders’ rights from re-multiplying for seed use by unauthorized parties. Those who buy Agrico PSA varieties and re-multiply them to sell to farmers as seed stand to be reported to KEPHIS and shall face the law. FIELD: Have a good crop-rotation, just once in four years potatoes on the same field, otherwise the number of nematodes will increase. Fields for ware production should be free from nematodes! If no other alternatives, use a nematicide (nematode killing or disabling chemical) before or simultaneously at planting. Chemicals can be Velum prime (Bayer). The same principle of crop rotation applies to the risk of bacterial wilt, which is becoming a big challenge in many parts of the country. Once you have bacterial wilt in your farm, you will hardly get rid of it and experience significant decrease in yields plus a hardly sellable end product. The fields from which you will harvest your potatoes, can be planted with other crops that are not botanically related to potatoes. Potatoes are in the Solanacea family, other crops in this family are e.g. tomatoes, capsicums, nightshade (managu), tobacco, eggplant, but also weeds like sodom apple. Cereals and legumes are the best to rotate with potatoes for better pest/disease cycle disruption. Besides nematodes and bacterial wilt, it is useful to check the pH level of the field. The pH plays a significant role in the availability of microelements. SOIL TESTING & FERTILIZER: Find out about the nutrients in the soil by doing soil sampling, and check for the following nutrients: Nitrogen: Nitrogen is important in fueling growth and providing high yields. It ensures optimal photosynthate production in leaves. Nitrogen is important in fuelling growth Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke www.agrico.co.ke and providing high yields. It is largely needed during leaf formation and then for tuber growth and yield, when it ensures optimal photosynthate production in the leaves.1 Phosphorus: Phosphorus is important for early root and shoot development, providing energy for plant processes such as ion uptake and transport. At tuber initiation, an adequate supply of phosphorus ensures supplies of optimum numbers of tubers are formed. While potatoes are very responsive to fresh soil phosphate, the economic optimum rate is often very difficult to define. Rates will depend on soil type and soil test results. 2 Potassium: Potassium plays a key role in water relations and good overall plant health. Potato plants absorb large quantities of potassium throughout the growing season. Potassium has an important role in the control of the plant water status and ionic concentrations inside plant tissues, including stomata. As a result of the improved cell strength that potassium provides in potatoes, stress such as frost can be better tolerated. 3 Calcium: Calcium is a key component of cell walls, helping to build a strong structure and ensuring cell stability. Internal disorders such as IRS (internal rust spot or internal brown spot - IBS) can be reduced by a good calcium supply, in the form of calcium nitrate, at ridging or during tuber initiation. Experience shows that ensuring there is a minimum of 0.15% calcium in the peel, improves potato skin finish, boosts disease tolerance and minimizes IRS. 4 The required amount of nutrients and fertilisers differs per potato variety, but also available potash in the soil, expected crop, and weather conditions. All nutrients, especially the major ones being N, P, and K, should be added in good balance as per your soil analysis, to avoid irregular feeding. Irregular feeding can lead to tuber cracks and hollow hearts, just like may happen if moisture is irregular during THE growing season. Calcium, Magnesium, Sulphur, and Borium are considered as part of the most secondary essential nutrients, just like NPK. A potato crop needs to be given nutrition ideally three times during the crop cycle. About 60% of the nutrition demand lies at planting and should be given to the plant with a base fertilizer at planting, 20% to come during top dressing at 5 weeks after germination during tuberisation, and another 20% of nutrition needs to be given through top dress or foliar feed at 8-9 weeks. The recommended pH level for potatoes is 6.2. However, from a soil with pH of 5.0 you can still grow potatoes, but then add lime to the soils. 1 https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/potato/role-of-nitrogen/ 2 https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/potato/role-of-phosphorus/ 3 https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/potato/role-of-potassium/ 4 https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/potato/role-of-calcium/ Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke www.agrico.co.ke As said before, only once in four years potatoes in a field must be the rule. This also means that volunteer potatoes in other crops during rotation should be taken out in the three years without potatoes. If you don’t take out volunteer plants, bacteria and nematodes can stay alive. The volunteer plants can also become a source of diseases, such as blight or insects. Also, the weeds that host bacterial wilt must be destroyed in those three years. This is the only way to get rid of this disease, together with the use of clean seeds of course. Be aware also of infections from other fields (clean your boots, jembe, machines, tractor / car wheels). Farmers can use Kerrol or comparable products to disinfect. LAND PREPARATION BEFORE PLANTING: The field should be leveled, otherwise in the deeper parts water logging can occur which will affect your plants and reduce yields. Prepare the soil before planting in a way that will give you about 28-30 cm of loose soil in the depth. When you want to have a nice and equal field with plants it is good to grade the seeds into several sizes. In Kenya we have 2 seed sizes; Size 1 is 28-45mm (egg size) and Size 2 is 45-60mm (fist size). Try to work properly with the row-distances of 75cms; it makes the ridging much easier. Place the seed just under the ground and make a little ridge above it, so that the seeds are just below the surface. It is important all seeds are planted at same depth to ensure even germination and ease of harvesting. When you want to do your land preparations mechanically, we suggest you use a horizontal working rotovator to ensure you get enough loose soil for the 30cms depth. In case you have been working your land with a disc plough for many seasons, you may have a hard pan right under the top soil. You will need to break this hard pan using either a ripper or a chisel plough. This will allow for better root penetration for your potato, but also other crops resulting in a stronger, healthier crop and eventually higher yields and higher quality tubers. This should translate into more profit for the farmer. At the same having good loose soil also means better aerated soil and better drainage of water. If you are using a tractor for planting, use narrow wheels to avoid destroying your ridges, or having a lot of space between the ridges. You can use a bed-former or moulding board or ridger first, and then plant your seeds in the ridges, not in the furrows. Avoid working with machinery on wet soils, lest you create a hard pan. Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke www.agrico.co.ke The best planting method for can be demonstrated to you by one of our technical staff on the date of seed collection, if given advance notice. In order to control erosion and damage from heavy rains, it is advisable for the farmer to dig small water holes in between the ridges. These holes will hold water and soil in case of very heavy rains. You can dig about 2-3 holes per meter, about 10cms or 6 inches deep, in between your ridges. This will also help with water retention in case of drought. PLANTING DISTANCES: The distance of the plants in the row depends on the size of the seeds and also on the variety. Good grading and even separation of tubers at planting will optimize the crop and result in better yields for the farmer, therefore more profitable potato farming. For ware potato growing, an average of 18 stems per square meter are required (3 – 5 stems per meter in the row) at a row width of 75cm. Seed size Tuber diameter Avg # of stems Planting distance within the row (seed to seed) Size 1 28-45mm 3-4 25 - 30 cms Size 2 45-60mm 4-6 30 – 35 cms NB: May vary depending on variety&field conditions, ask the AgricoPSA agronomist for advise If you follow the recommended spacing as above ranging from 25 - 35cms between the tubers, and 75cms between the rows, you will need about 800 – 1,000kgs (16-20 bags) of seed size 1 and 1,000 – 1,500 (20-30 bags) of seed size 2 to cover 1 acre. The targeted plant population per acre is about 18,000 plants. RIDGING: Ridging or hilling up the soil around the potato plant, helps the farmer in many ways. One is controlling weeds. The best moment to re-ridge is when the new plant is just emerging, at the 4-8 leave stage. If there are weeds at this stage, you can cover them together with the potato plant, and they will not be strong enough to re-emerge, contrary to your potato plant. A second reason for re-ridging is to give the new tubers more space to grow. A big ridge also protects your tubers from growing out of the ridge onto the surface area, and as a result becoming green because of exposure to sunlight. Green tubers are not suitable for consumption, they are poisonous! Manual (re)ridging can be done with a jembe or hoe, where you dig some loose soil from the furrow and put it on top of the ridge. The soil you heap to form a ridge also plays an important role to protect the young roots and stolons from the scorching sun when there are no rains. The trenches between ridges helps in harvesting the water Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke www.agrico.co.ke during the rains, thus keeping your soil most until another rainfall. Always be careful not to cut the stolons and roots when digging up the soil for ridging; they grow very close to the surface and if you damage them a lower yield will be the result. Ridging / hilling up is making a nice wide and high ridge. If the planting has been done properly just 2cms of soil will be added on top of the original ridge. Never bury new plants deeper than 4cms, as this may stress or suffocate the plant and will bring an enormous decrease in yield. Do not ridge on very wet, or very dry, soils. Moderate soil moisture is necessary for good firm ridges. When using a tractor, you need narrow wheels to ensure you do not break or destroy the ridges with the tyres. IRRIGATION: For a good and regular growth, the potato plant requires a sufficient water supply, especially when the stolons (off shoots of the main roots where the potatoes are attached) are developing and the number of tubers is established. When the soil is dry during this period fewer tubers will be created. The ultimate way is the use of dripirrigation, this way the plant has sufficient water all the time, no water is spoiled by evaporation and the soil condition stays good. In some soils the use of sprinkler irrigation will compact the soil so oxygen becomes a problem and the potatoes grow slowly and harvesting becomes difficult. If you are able to manage your time well and it is practical, we recommend irrigation to be done late afternoon to avoid a lot of evaporation. WEED CONTROL: Weed control can be done by hand, just be careful about the potato roots. For chemical control, there are several methods and products that can be used. Chemical use to control weeds should be subject to which weeds the farmer experiences in his field. Farmers can call the representatives of agro-chemical companies, or the Agrico agronomist for a referral, to get advise on the chemicals that can control weeds on the different Agrico seed varieties. Always read the label of any chemical you intend to use, and seek expert advise whenever possible. Also remember to wear the appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) when using chemicals. A proper PPE should consist of boots, spray suit, gloves, glasses / goggles, mask. Ensure you also safely dispose of the empty chemical containers after use; best is to ask the chemical company representative to come and collect, or return empty bottles to your agrovet. Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke www.agrico.co.ke WARNING: between spraying of different kinds of chemicals, always have at least 4 days interval between the sprays, especially when mineral oil is used! Manual weeding is recommended. DISEASE PREVENTION: Prevention & Treatment of Late Blight5 : When you are using certified seed from Agrico PSA the prevention of fungi is important especially Late Blight is commonly observed. Late blight is caused by the funguslike oomycete pathogen Phytophthora infestans. This potentially devastating disease can infect potato foliage and tubers at any stage of crop development and can have a devasting impact on yield and tuber quality. Late blight mostly occurs during cool and wet weather. Symptoms are lesions on the leaves, that are initially dark green or black and at a later stage turn brown and surrounded by a lighter halo. During active growth, especially in cool, wet weather, a white mildew-appearing area is visible at the edge of the lesions. The white mildew is the actively growing part of the late blight. Late blight infected tubers will show depressed dark rotten spots on the surface of the skin which will grow deeper in the tuber itself (varying from brown to purplish).6 Blight infested tubers can keep spreading the disease. We recommend farmers do preventive sprays against blight every week, from when the first plants emerge. When the first late blight infections will appear, the fungi can destroy your crop in less than a week. We recommend a mix of chemicals to be used, in order to avoid resistance of the potatoes or the fields to one specific chemical. Farmers can be referred by the Agrico agronomist to the chemical companies who can develop a customized spray regime to follow. Farmers can also ask the chemical companies for their specific spray programs, or have a look at the website of the relevant chemical companies such as Bayer7 or Syngenta. On a general note: Always start with a preventive chemical, one to three times during the crop cycle, then apply preventive and curative. Rule of thumb is to spray at an interval of once a week, but may be altered based on weather conditions (i.e. if the weather or the season is very wet, the farmer may have to spray more often, like after 4-5 days). 5 https://www.potatopro.com/news/2015/idaho-late-blight-outbreak-worst-1998 24/07/2018 6 https://www.ag.ndsu.edu/publications/crops/late-blight-in-potato, 30/07/2020 7 https://www.cropscience.bayer.africa/ke/en-ke/products.html, 13/09/2021 Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke www.agrico.co.ke After flowering, when the plant starts tuber bulking, use a chemical that gives tubers protection. Your chemical spraying regime should be depending on climate circumstances. No chemical is too strong to work alone without alternates, and no weather is too good to do away with the spraying. Prevention & Treatment of Early Blight: Early blight is a fungal disease somewhat similar to late blight. Early blight also gives stains on the leaves and slowly deteriorates the plant till it dies. The main difference with early blight is that the stains on the leaves are small spots and not larger blotches as with late blight. Early blight is also seen later on in the season and comes in once the plant starts showing signs of yellowing. This is why this disease is also called ‘the ageing disease’. Early blight will accelerate the ageing process and have a big impact on your total yield at harvest, since potato tubers will add most weight towards the end of the growing cycle. Control of early blight can be done through anti-fungal sprays and can also be combined with your normal late blight control. There are several products available. We suggest you contact the leading agro-dealer in your area for advice on products, or the regional representatives for Bayer, Syngenta or similar companies for the correct products to use.8 Bacterial Wilt is common in Kenya. Controlling this can be done by using certified seeds, clean fields and by avoiding the use of contaminated irrigation water. If you need to irrigate then test the water first. Watch out for spreading of the bacteria by tractor and/or machinery or even by human beings. Disinfection of farm workers & tools is important. CONTROLLING PESTS & INSECTS: Insects needs to be controlled as well as they can be major transporters of diseases and viruses. Also, insects can damage the crop leaves and tubers, resulting in lower yields or lower quality tubers, affecting farmers profits. There is a wide range of insects that can affect potatoes, and different insects at different stages of the crop may require different intervention from the farmer. Some common insects affecting potato farmers are cutworms, millipedes, aphids, thrips, 8 https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/sitesgateway/files/alternaria%20%2824, 24/07/2018 Agrico Potato Services Africa Limited Tel: +254 742 844 207 Email: info@agrico.co.ke www.agrico.co.ke leaf minors, snails, bugs, spider-mites, whiteflies, potato tuber moth, wire worm, and stemborer. HARVESTING: Your plants are ready for harvesting when the foliage has completely dried up, i.e. leaves have wilted and turned yellow or brown and dry, and also the stems feeding the tubers need to have dried off. Harvesting should be done under good weather conditions, not too warm and not too wet. Prevent bruising the tubers by waiting until the skin of tubers is hardened off enough. You can do the ‘finger test’, with rubbing your thumb over a harvested tuber. If the skin of the tuber comes off, or peels, that is an indicator the tubers are not yet ready for harvesting. Treat potatoes like eggs, they are very sensitive and fragile. Damaged and bruised potatoes are more susceptible for diseases and are likely to lose more weight during storage. STORAGE: Often the prices of potatoes are not so good during the harvesting period since most farmers will plant and also harvest all at the same time. In such case you can decide to store your potatoes and wait for better prices. When storing potatoes, it is very important to do it correct. The potatoes must be ventilated mechanically or by natural ventilation in order to dry the tubers. You need to be careful to keep the potatoes dry but not to dry them out and cause weight loss. If you are storing the potatoes in a place that has held potatoes before, you need to disinfect the store from last years’ crop before putting in your fresh, clean potatoes. Otherwise, potatoes can still pick up diseases from the storage facility. Depending on desired storage time one has to look at different storage options. It is important for processing varieties (chips, crisps) that the tuber temperature does not drop below 7 degrees Celsius, otherwise sugar-content may increase above the required levels. This will not be acceptable to the processors as it will give them brown chips or crisps. The cleaner (without dirt and rot and cuts) the crop is brought into the store, the better it will stay during storage. Disclaimer: Please note that this document is a general guide to potato farming in East Africa, but not an absolute instruction. Changes can be done depending on many factors, e.g. type of soil, climate, weather, market, etc. Agrico PSA does not take any responsibility or liability in case of misinterpretation and loss of yields or crop as a result. When in doubt, always consult the Agrico agronomist, or other agronomists or technically skilled people. ", "Easy Gardening Joseph Masabni, Assistant Professor and Extension Horticulturist, The Texas A&M University System irish potatoes • irish potatoes • irish pota- -1- I rish potatoes are one of America’s most popular vegetables—the average American eats about 125 pounds of potatoes and potato products each year. The edible part of the plant is an underground stem called a tuber (not a root). Irish potatoes contain 2 percent protein and 18 percent starch. They are an inexpensive source of carbohydrates and, when prepared properly, provide good amounts of vitamins and minerals. Irish potatoes are a cool-season crop; they grow best in early spring and late fall when the days are warm and the nights are cool. However, the tops of the plant cannot withstand frost. Varieties The most common types of Irish potatoes are red or white. Most red varieties store longer than do white varieties; on the other hand, most white varieties have better cooking qualities than red varieties. Many gardeners plant some of each in the spring. The whites are used first and the reds stored for later use. Several varieties grow well in Texas: • Red flesh: Dark Red Norland, Norland, Red LaSoda, and Viking • White flesh: Atlantic, Gemchip, Kennebec, and Superior • Yellow flesh: Yukon Gold • Russet: Century Russet, Norgold M, and Russet Norkatah Site selection For best production, potatoes need full sun. They do best in a loose, welldrained, slightly acid soil. Poorly drained soils often cause poor stands and low yields. Heavy soils can cause the tubers to be small and rough. Soil preparation Before spading, remove the rocks, trash, and large sticks from the soil. Spade EHT-068 6-14 fertilizer—about 2 cups for each 30 feet of row—in each trench. The seed pieces will be planted in the row between the two bands of fertilizer (Fig. 3). Seed preparation Unlike most other vegetables, Irish potatoes are not grown from seed. Instead, pieces from the potato itself start new plants. Buy good seed potatoes that are free of disease and chemicals. Do not buy potatoes from a grocery store for planting. The seed potato contains buds or “eyes” that sprout and grow into plants. The seed piece provides food for the plant until it develops a root system. If the seed is too small, it will produce a weak plant. One pound of seed potatoes will make 9 to 10 seed pieces. For a spring crop, cut large seed potatoes into pieces weighing about 1½ to 2 ounces, about the size of a medium hen egg. Each seed piece must have at least one good eye (Fig. 4). Cut the seeds 5 or 6 days before planting. Hold the cut seed in a well-ventilated spot so it can heal over to prevent rotting when planted in cold, wet or very hot weather. Plants killed by a late spring frost will not come back if the seed piece is rotten. For fall-grown potatoes, plant small, uncut potatoes because they are more resistant to rotting in hot weather than cut potatoes. Select mature potatoes about 1½ inches in diameter. the soil 8 to 12 inches deep turning the earth over to cover all plant material. Work the soil into beds 10 to 12 inches high and 36 inches apart (Fig. 1). Bedding is vital for drainage. Because potatoes need adequate fertilizer early in the season, apply most of the fertilizer just before planting. Use 2 to 3 pounds of complete fertilizer such as 10- 20-10 for each 30 feet of row in bands 2 inches to each side and 1 inch below the seed piece. Do not allow the fertilizer to touch the seed piece. To apply the fertilizer, flatten the beds at 6 to 8 inches high and 10 to 12 inches wide (Fig. 2). Using the corner of a hoe or stick, open a trench about 4 inches deep on each side of the bed. Apply half of the -2- Figure 1. Before planting potatoes, work the soil into beds 10 to 12 inches high and 36 inches apart. 36” 10–12” Figure 2. Flatten the beds at 6 to 8 inches high and 10 to 12 inches wide. 10–12” 10–12” 6–8” Figure 3. Plant the seed pieces in a row between two bands of fertilizer. Seed piece Fertilizer Figure 4. Cut large seed potatoes into pieces, each having at least one good eye. Seed pieces inches apart in the trench (Fig. 5). Step on each seed piece after dropping it to ensure good contact with the soil. Cover the seed about 3 inches deep. If covered too deeply, the plants will be slow to break through the soil and will be more subject to disease and seed decay. Fertilizing The plant must have adequate moisture and fertilizer when the tubers are forming. This usually occurs when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall. Apply 1 cup of fertilizer for each 30 feet of row beside the plants when they are about 4 inches tall. Watering During growth, keep the soil moisture supply constant. Water the fertilizer into the soil, especially on sandy soils. Moisture stress followed by irrigation or rainfall can cause growth cracks and second growth (Fig. 6). If the rainfall is accompanied by hot weather, the rest period of developing tubers can be broken and can cause the tubers to sprout in the soil. Too much water enlarges the pores on the tubers and makes them rot easily in storage. Care during the season All tubers produced on a potato plant arise from above the seed piece. Because -3- Potatoes have a rest period that must be broken before they will sprout. The rest period is more easily broken in small, mature potatoes. To be sure the rest period is broken, store small seed potatoes under warm, damp conditions for 2 weeks before planting by placing them in a shady spot and covering them with moist burlap bags or mulch. The potatoes should have small sprouts at planting time. Seed is usually more available in the spring than in the fall. Many gardeners buy extra seeds in the spring and hold it over for fall planting. For best storage, keep the potatoes in a cool, humid spot such as the bottom of a refrigerator. Do not save your potato seeds for more than 1 year. This can cause buildup of virus diseases and reduce yield. Planting Plant potatoes when the soil temperature 4 inches deep reaches about 50 degrees F, or about 3 weeks before the last spring frost. In most areas of Texas, potatoes should be planted in February or early March. If planted too early, the tops can be frozen off by spring frost. For a fall crop, plant about 110 days before the first expected frost, or mid-August in most areas. Use a hoe or stick to open a trench about 3 inches deep down the center of the bed. Drop the seed pieces 10 to 12 Figure 5. Drop the seed pieces 10 to 12 inches apart in the trench. 3-4” 12” Figure 6. Moisture stress followed by watering can cause growth cracks and second growth. Too much water causes enlarged pores on the tubers. Growth crack Second growth Enlarged pores Potato plants do not cross with tomato plants. Insects Many insecticides are available at garden centers for homeowner use. Sevin is a synthetic insecticide; organic options include sulfur and Bt-based insecticides. Sulfur has also fungicidal properties and helps in controlling many diseases. Before using a pesticide, read the label and always follow cautions, warnings, and directions. -4- the seed piece is planted only 3 inches deep, soil must be pulled toward the plant as it grows (Fig. 7). This gives the tubers a place to form. Some gardeners use thick mulch for this purpose. Potatoes formed in soft mulch often are smoother and have a better shape than those grown in soil. This is especially true if the soil is heavy. As the potatoes enlarge, they must be protected from sunlight or they will turn green. Apply a thick layer of mulch when the plants are 8 to 10 inches tall to block sunlight, reduce soil temperature, and increase yield and quality. Potato plants usually produce flowers and sometimes produce fruits (Fig. 8). The fruits bear the true seed of the potato plant. They look like small tomatoes but cannot be eaten. Figure 8. Potato plants usually produce flowers and sometimes produce fruits. Name and description Control 1 ⁄16 inch long; metallic bronze, black, blue or green; jumps quickly; eats small, round holes in leaves Sevin Adult: black and yellow stripes; 3 ⁄8 inch long; Larva: red, light orange; two rows of black dots on each side; soft bodied; up to 3 ⁄8 inch long; feeds on leaves Sevin 1 ⁄8 inch long; green, pink, red, or brown; soft bodied; usually found on underside of leaves; sucks plant juices Malathion Yellow-white; dark head and tail; slender; ½ to 1½ inches long; feeds on tubers Weed control, sanitation and hand removal Green; wedge shaped; crawls sidewise when disturbed; up to 1 ⁄8 inch long; sucks juices from leaves; leaves curl upward and turn yellow to brown Sevin Flea beetle Colorado potato beetle Wireworm Aphid Adult Larva Leafhopper Figure 7. Because all tubers produced on a potato plant come from above the seed piece, the soil must be pulled toward the plant as it grows. Soil or mulch Tubers will turn green if not covered Seed piece Roots To harvest potatoes, dig under the plants with a shovel or spading fork. Keep the pitchfork 8 to 10 inches away from the plant to prevent cutting the potatoes. Raise the plants and shake away the soil. Potatoes should be dug when the soil is moist. If it is too wet, the soil will stick to the potatoes. If too dry, dirt clods will bruise the potatoes. Pull the potatoes from the vines and handle them carefully to prevent damage; damaged potatoes do not store well. Allow the potatoes to dry; then store them in a cool spot with plenty of air movement. Most potato varieties are ready to dig 95 to 110 days after planting. After the potatoes are dug, place the tops in the compost pile. The spring potato crop often can be followed with a summer crop such as southern peas. Serving Peel away the green areas on potatoes before cooking. For suggestions on how to prepare and serve potatoes, contact your county Extension agent. -5- Diseases Potatoes are troubled by several diseases. Treating seed pieces with a fungicide before planting can be helpful. Check the plants daily and treat them with an approved fungicide if diseases appear. Neem oil, sulfur, and other fungicides are available for use. Always follow label directions. A good rotation program is an effective way to control most potato diseases. If possible, do not plant potatoes in the same place more than once each 3 years. Do not follow or precede potatoes with eggplant, okra, pepper or tomato. Seed piece treatment is especially important if your garden is too small for adequate rotation. Harvesting and storing Potatoes are ready to harvest when the tops begin to die and the potato skin becomes firm. The skin is set when it does not scrape easily when rubbed with the thumb. Skin set can be speeded by cutting back the tops of the plants. Most of the potatoes should weigh 6 to 12 ounces at harvest. You can harvest small “new potatoes” during the growing season by carefully digging beside the plants with your fingers. Acknowledgments This publication was revised from earlier versions written by B. Dean McCraw, former Professor and Extension Horticulturist. The information given herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service is implied. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service AgriLifeExtension.tamu.edu More Extension publications can be found at AgriLifeBookstore.org Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, disability, genetic information, or veteran status. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating.", "Agriculture and Natural Resources FSA6016 Home Gardening Series Irish Potatoes Craig R. Andersen Associate Professor and Extension Specialist ­ Vegetables Arkansas Is Our Campus Visit our web site at: https://www.uaex.uada.edu Environment Light – sunny Soil – well-drained Fertility – medium-rich pH – 5.0 to 6.5 Temperature – cool Moisture – uniform moisture Culture Planting – seed pieces late winter or late summer Spacing – 10-12 inches x 24-36 inches Hardiness – cool season, hardy Fertilizer – medium to heavy feeder Irish Potatoes – Solanum tuberosum The potato is a cool-season vegetable that ranks with wheat and rice as one of the most important staples in the human diet. Potatoes are native to America and were cultivated from Chile to New Grenada at the time the Spanish explorers reached South America. The Spaniards introduced the species to Europe soon after 1580, and the popularity of potatoes spread all over Europe and the British Isles by the end of the 17th century. In 1719 Irish immigrants introduced white potatoes to New England, and now white potatoes are often called “Irish potatoes.” Potatoes are not roots but specialized underground storage stems called “tubers.” Maximum tuber formation occurs at soil temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees F. The tubers fail to form when the soil temperature reaches 80 degrees F. Potatoes will withstand light frost in spring and can be grown throughout Arkansas. Cultural Practices Planting Time Potatoes are among the earliest vegetables planted in the garden. Early, midseason and late varieties may be planted in early to midFebruary through early March in southern Arkansas and early March to early April in northern Arkansas. Midseason and late varieties may be planted as late as July 15 to August 1 for fall production. Late potatoes are best for winter storage. Spacing and Depth of Planting Start potatoes from a “seed piece” rather than from true seed. However, there is a particular potato variety called ‘Homestead Hybrid’ that is grown from true potato seed. Plant seed pieces in a window box or greenhouse for transplants, or plant directly in the garden. Seed pieces are small whole potatoes or larger ones that are cut into 1 1/2- to 2-ounce pieces. Plant the pieces soon after cutting. Be sure there are at least two to three good “eyes” in each seed piece. Some garden centers and seed suppliers sell potato eyes that weigh University of Arkansas, United States Department of Agriculture, and County Governments Cooperating Cultivars Crop Cultivar Days to Maturity Seed Per 100 Feet of Row Remarks Irish Potatoes Kennebec 110 13 pounds Smooth, oblong white tuber; heavy yields; good quality; high starch. Irish Cobbler 95 13 pounds Round white tuber; early; well adapted, high starch. Pontiac 100 13 pounds Round, oblong red tuber; heavy yields; low starch. Superior 90 13 pounds Early, round white tubers; moderate heat tolerance; low starch. All Blue 13 pounds Deep blue/purple-colored skins and flesh. Retains color after cooking as well. Suitable for all cooking. Mid to late maturity; vigorous plants. Blue flowered; medium starch. Yukon Gold 13 pounds Mid-early variety; oval, medium-large potato with light yellow flesh. Large, upright plants have violet flowers; medium starch. Dark Red Norland 13 pounds Early, stores well. Oval-oblong, smooth red potato with white flesh. Great for early digging. Medium-large purple flowering plants; low starch. *NOTE: Check your local garden centers or farm stores for certified seed potatoes in the spring. less than an ounce; these are not the desired size. Small, whole, certified seed potatoes are the best choice for home gardeners. Plant seed pieces 10 to 12 inches apart and cover them in a furrow 2 to 3 inches deep. Space the rows 24 to 36 inches apart. The 24-inch spacing is often beneficial because plants will shade the soil and prevent high soil temperatures that inhibit tuber development. Care The soil should be fertile and well drained. Clay soils should be improved with organic matter and plowed in the fall. Use raised beds to improve soil drainage. Band fertilizer 6 inches on both sides of the row at the rate of 6 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. When the plants are 8 to 12 inches tall, side-dress another 3 pounds of fertilizer per 100 feet of row about 6 inches from the center of the row. Mulching is usually helpful in growing potatoes. Apply organic mulch after the potato plants have emerged to conserve moisture, help keep down weeds and cool the soil. Some gardeners cover rows of early potatoes with clear plastic film at planting to warm the soil and promote early growth. After the plants emerge, remove the film to allow the plants to grow. Hill the potatoes after they break the surface of the ground, gradually build up a low ridge of loose soil by cultivation and hoeing. This ridge, which may become 4 to 6 inches high in summer, reduces the number of sunburned (greened) tubers. The object of potato cultivation is to eliminate competition from weeds, to loosen and aerate the soil and to build up the row. Misshaped potatoes result when the tubers develop in hard, compacted soil. Irrigate to ensure uniform moisture while the tubers are developing. A uniform moisture supply also helps cool the ground and helps eliminate knobs caused by secondary growth. Harvesting Harvest potatoes after most of the vines have died. Handle as gently as possible during harvest. Leave the tubers exposed to the sun just long enough for the soil to dry and fall off. Too much direct sunlight blisters the tubers and causes them to turn green and rot in storage. Since the tubers develop 4 to 6 inches beneath the soil surface, a spade fork is useful for digging potatoes. Potatoes for use in early summer (“new” potatoes) may be dug before the vines die (usually in June or July). When the potatoes reach 1 to 2 inches in size, dig a few hills to use for soups or to cook with peas, cream or butter. Late potatoes are usually dug in October. They will keep in the garage or basement for several weeks in their natural dormancy. Store over the winter in a dark room or in a cooler at a temperature between 38 and 40 degrees F with high humidity. Check periodically for spoilage. Common Problems Early blight disease causes yellowing and dying of the leaves. The presence of brown spots and yellowing of the lower leaves are the first signs of the disease. The entire plant will become infected if the disease is not controlled. Control early blight by weekly applications of suggested fungicides, beginning when seedlings are 6 to 8 inches high. Potato scab disease (indicated by scabby, rough skin) does not develop when the soil pH is 5.6 or below. Plant resistant varieties when available. Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles and leafhoppers can significantly reduce potato yields. Control these insects with suggested insecticides. diseases – early blight, scab, late blight, tuber rots, virus complex, fusarium, verticillium and bacterial wilts insects – Colorado potato beetles, flea beetles, leafhoppers cultural – green skin (sun exposure), hollow heart (alternate wet and dry conditions), black walnut wilt (too close to a black walnut tree) Harvesting and Storage days to maturity – 100 to 120 harvest – Dig early potatoes when tubers are large enough to eat. Harvest potatoes for storage after the vines die down or just after the first light fall frost nips the vines, before heavy freezing. Avoid skinning tubers when digging and avoid long exposure to light. approximate yields (per 10 feet of row) – 6 to 15 pounds amount to raise per person – 75 to 100 pounds (plant about 15 pounds of seed potatoes per person) storage – medium-cool conditions (38 to 42 degrees F), moist (90 percent relative humidity) conditions; 6 to 8 months. Sprouting is a problem at higher temperatures. preservation – usually stored in medium cool, moist conditions There are more than 100 varieties of potatoes. The horticultural varieties generally have white flesh and light brown or red skin. There are different types of potatoes with yellow to blue flesh and many different skin colors. An interesting one now being grown is ‘Yellow Finn.’ ‘Russet Burbank’ is one of the most important varieties produced in the United States. The weather in Arkansas is too warm and the moisture fluctuation is too great for the production of smooth ‘Russet Burbank’ tubers and good yields. Frequently Asked Questions Q. Should I save some of my potatoes for seed potatoes? A. No. Saving your own seed potatoes can lead to a buildup of viruses and diseases. Q. My potato plants flowered and formed green fruits that resemble small tomatoes. What are they? A. These small seed balls are the fruits that contain the true seeds. They are not edible. Q. What causes green skins on my potatoes? A. The green areas on tubers develop where the potato was exposed to the sun. This condition occurs when potatoes are not planted deeply enough or not covered with straw. The green portions taste bitter because they contain an alkaloid. Cut off and discard these green areas. Exposure of potato tubers to fluorescent light or sunlight will cause greening during storage. Q. Can I make chips from homegrown potatoes? A. Yes. Any potato variety can be used to make chips when the potatoes are freshly dug. Commercial chips are made from selected varieties that are carefully handled and stored. Chips made from inferior varieties or improperly stored potatoes will be brown and have a dark ring because they contain excessive amounts of sugars. Q. I used potatoes bought at the grocery store as seed for planting, and they rotted without sprouting. Why? A. Many potatoes sold for fresh market consumption have been treated to prevent sprouting in storage and when planted. Potatoes have a rest period that must be broken before the seed pieces will sprout. Cool or extremely warm temperatures can break the rest period and allow potatoes to sprout. Plant certified seed potatoes that have been properly stored to induce sprouting. Q. Can I save the small potatoes from my spring crop for planting in the fall in my garden? A. Yes. This is commonly done. Sometimes the potatoes saved from the spring garden fail to sprout when planted in the fall because of a natural dormancy in newly harvested potatoes. A recommended procedure for breaking the dormancy includes harvesting the potatoes and placing them in a cool storage area, preferably about 50 degrees F, until about three to four weeks before the anticipated fall planting date. To prevent rotting, do not cut. Plant the small potatoes whole. Q. How do I know when my potatoes are ready for harvesting? A. Potatoes are mature when the plant starts to yellow. Potatoes require 75 to 140 days from planting to maturity depending upon variety and the season they are grown. Immature potatoes often skin and bruise easily. Dig spring-planted potatoes before the soil becomes hot. Avoid harvesting potatoes when the soil is wet to avoid storage diseases. Q. I have some seed potatoes left from my spring garden. Would it be all right to eat them? A. No. Potato tubers purchased for seed purposes should not be eaten because they frequently have been chemically treated. Like all treated seeds, seed potatoes should not be fed to humans or animals. Q. After harvesting, how should I handle my potatoes to result in the longest storage time possible? A. Dig potatoes when the soil is dry. Be careful not to skin or bruise the tubers. Do not wash the potatoes. Place them in crates or some suitable container and store them in a dark area for three to five days at 60 degrees F with high humidity. After this curing period, keep the potatoes at 40 to 45 degrees F with humidity near 85 percent and provide good air circulation. Q. Can potatoes be left in the ground for storage? A. Generally no. Cool, humid conditions (38 to 45 degrees F and 85 percent relative humidity) are best for Irish potato storage. The potatoes would not stay dry enough in the soil to prevent second growth or sprouting. Several weeks at high temperatures can break the rest period in homegrown potatoes, after which sprouts will develop on the tuber. It is better to dig the potatoes and put them in a cool, damp area. Q. After a rainfall, the potato plants in one area of my garden began to die rapidly. The stems rotted. A dark discoloration is moving up the stem to the top of the plant, and the stem has a foul odor. A. This is black leg of potatoes, one of the major bacterial potato problems. To prevent this problem, plant only in well-drained areas. Seed piece treatment also helps prevent the entry of bacteria and other organisms. Q. The stems of my Irish potato plants are decayed. The plants weaken but do not die. A. This is Rhizoctonia, a soil-borne fungus that causes decay in stems and seed pieces. Approved seed-piece fungicides are the best control for this disease. Always follow label instructions closely. Q. When I dug my potatoes, they were covered by small, raised bumps. A. This is a physiological condition called large lenticle. It is caused by water-saturated soil conditions. Choose a well-drained site and raised beds. Q. After I dug my potatoes, I found that they were rough with deep scars. A. This is potato scab, caused by a soil-borne organism. Control by maintaining an acid soil, below pH 5.6, around your potato plants and a uniform moisture level from the time the potato is formed until it is harvested. Q. The lower foliage on my potato plants is beginning to turn yellow and is covered with brown spots. A. This is early blight of potatoes and is similar to blight on tomatoes. Spray with a fungicide when spots are observed and repeat at 7- to 14-day intervals for two to three sprays. Q. The foliage of my potato plants is distorted, rolled and is not as healthy as it should be. A. Several viruses attack potatoes. The best prevention of potato viruses is to plant only certified seed pieces. Q. When I dug my potatoes, I noticed small holes chewed in the tubers. How do I prevent this? A. Several soil-inhabiting insects, such as wireworms and white grubs, cause this type of damage. Use control measures for these pests before planting. Use insecticides only as directed on the label. Q. The leaves of my potatoes are disappearing fast. All I see on the plant are some pinkish worms. A. These pinkish larvae are immature Colorado potato beetles. They defoliate plants and can be controlled with insecticides. Use as directed on label. In small plots, control by picking the larvae off by hand and destroying them. Photo Credit: Scott Bauer @ USDA-NRCS. Printed by University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service Printing Services. DR. CRAIG R. ANDERSEN is associate professor and Extension specialist - vegetables, Horticulture Department, University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, Fayetteville. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Arkansas. The Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national origin, religion, gender, age, disability, marital or veteran status, or any other legally protected status FSA6016-PD-7-11RV and is an Affirmative Action/Equal Opportunity Employer. ", "Growing Potatoes in Your Home Garden A Guide to Growing Potatoes In Your Home Garden Yes potatoes are nutritious! They are a great source of vitamin C, potassium, fiber and protein, all with no fat! Potatoes, along with many other vegetables, can be prepared as part of a healthy diet. Luckily, potatoes are versatile and are easy to prepare. Whether baked, boiled, roasted or fried they are a delicious addition to Potatoes are native to the Andean region of South America. European explorers introduced the potato to Europe in 1536 but it did not arrive in the United States until 1719 when Irish immigrants brought the potato with them to the New World. Have you ever grown potatoes in your garden? Growing potatoes is fun and not that hard! Home gardeners can grow unique varieties that are not sold in local supermarkets. Potatoes come in all different shapes, sizes and colors. Did you know that there are purple, red and yellow potatoes ? Potatoes make a great garden project for your children or grandchildren. Kelly A. Zarka, Donna C. Kells, David S. Douches and C. Robin Buell Michigan State University any meal. Should you eat the skin? Yes! We recommend it! The skin of the potato contains the majority of the potato's fiber, and many of the nutrients are located close to the skin. Wash the potato thoroughly, cut away green discoloration and/or sprouts, and enjoy your potato with the skin on. Potatoes are the number one non‐grain food crop in the world. In the United States, over 1 million acres are planted each year for commercial production. Potatoes are important to developing nations as well. Potatoes can grow in harsh climates and many potato varieties can be produced in 90 days or less on small parcels of land. Potatoes are important in our world! Figure 1. Children love helping in the garden and getting dirty is an added bonus. Figure 2. Source: U.S. Food and Drug Administration Are potatoes nutritious? Where did potatoes come from? © Michigan State University and the Potato Breeding and Genetics Program Figure 3. Peru, South America . Photo credit: Allard Schmidt All about potatoes The potato is a member of the Solanaceae (nightshade) family, which includes tomato, pepper, eggplant, petunia and tobacco. The enlarged, edible, underground storage portion of the potato plant is called a “tuber”. The tuber develops from underground stems called stolons. Dormant buds (eyes) develop on the tuber. Tuber formation begins when plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, or five to seven weeks after planting, and results from the production and movement of starch into the developing tubers. Many varieties develop fruits and flowers, but these parts are not edible. The fruits look like small green tomatoes and contain the true seed of the potatoes; however they are genetically different from the parent. Plants grown from this seed will not necessarily resemble the original variety. Commercial potato production and home gardeners use tuber pieces containing at least one dormant bud (eye) that will sprout and form a potato plant. These tuber pieces are sometimes referred to as “potato seed” or “seed pieces”. The potato is raised as an annual crop, however, tubers left in the garden that do not completely freeze during the winter, may emerge as volunteer potato plants when the soil warms again. Potato types and uses Potato varieties vary according to shape, flesh color and skin appearance. They are classified according to the tuber types listed below (see Figure 4). Long Russet (A): A thick‐skinned potato with a long shape and dry texture; good for baking and frying (French fries). This is the most popular market type in the United States. Variety example: Goldrush. All about potatoes Round white/Long white (B): A thin‐light brown skinned all‐purpose potato with firm, creamy texture; best for boiling and frying. Variety examples: Onaway, Kennebec, Superior (Round), Shepody and Cal White (Long) Round red skin (C): A thin, red‐skinned potato with firm, creamy texture; good for boiling. Variety examples: Red Norland, Chieftain and Red Pontiac. Yellow (D): There are several varieties with thin, golden skins and creamy smooth yellow flesh; good for boiling and frying, some for baking. Variety examples: Yukon Gold, Yellow Finn. Round Red skin yellow flesh (E): New varieties with various color combinations are being released every year. One example is a red skinned potato with creamy yellow flesh. Good for boiling. Variety example: Red Gold Purple (F): A violet‐purple skinned potato with purple flesh; for baking and frying. They retain their color when cooked. Variety examples: Adirondack Blue, Purple Majesty Fingerlings (G): Small varieties that are narrow almost finger shaped. Fingerlings are fully mature when harvested. Variety examples: Banana, Rose Finn Apple. Figure 4: Potatoes come in many shapes and colors. Photo credit: U.S. Potato Board A B C D E F G Variety Selection, Seed Purchasing and Soil Preparation Variety Selection Choice of a potato variety for growing in a home garden depends on factors such as garden space availability, desired uses, and storage plans. To ensure quality and maximum productivity, purchase certified seed tubers. Certified potato tuber seed is seed of a known variety produced under strict standards to maintain seed tubers that are virus and disease free. Saving tubers from your garden will eventually result in decreased yields and small tubers due to more incidences of disease. For the same reason, you do not want to plant tubers from the grocery store. Grocery store potatoes have been treated to prevent sprouting so it may be difficult to even get a plant started at planting time. Certified potato tuber seed can be purchased at area garden nurseries or through the internet. If you are interested in trying new or unique varieties, try purchasing from reputable online vendors including: Irish Eyes Garden Seeds http://www.gardencityseeds.net Wood Prairie Farm http://www.woodprairie.com Gardens Alive! http://www.gardensalive.com Burpee http://burpee.com Potato Garden.com http://www.potatogarden.com Seed Preparation Depending on the source and the quantity you buy you will receive either small tubers or large tubers. Small tubers (1 to 2 inches in diameter) can be planted whole. Cut large tubers into block‐shaped, 2 to 2 1/2 ounce seed pieces (about the size of an egg) (Figure 5). The seed pieces should be firm, with at least one “eye” per section and a maximum sprout length of 1/4 to 1/2 inch to ensure optimum germination. Seed tubers can be cut and planted on the same day, however allowing the cut surface to heal over for 4‐7 days may reduce the risk of seed pieces rotting in the soil. Figure 5: Tuber seed piece cuttings. Soil Preparation and Fertility Potatoes grow on a wide range of soils, but are best suited to a sandy loam or a soil that is well drained. Very sandy soils may require extra watering to maintain adequate soil moisture. Fine‐textured soils that are high in silts and clay may not be well drained, and they tend to produce poorly shaped potatoes. If possible, a soil test can be performed before planting. Contact your local Extension office for details on soil testing. The best soil pH for potatoes is between 5.5 and 6.0. A pH above 6.0 may increase the incidence of common scab (a disease) on tubers. If a soil test is not available, follow these recommended guidelines: •Rototill into the seedbed about 2 pounds per 50 feet of row of 12‐12‐12 (N‐P‐K) analysis fertilizer. Planting and Care of Potatoes in Your Garden •Beside the row, apply 1/3 pound per 50 feet of row of 46‐0‐0 (urea) fertilizer one week after plant emergence and again between 4 and 6 weeks after emergence. Instead of working the fertilizer into the soil, water thoroughly so that the fertilizer moves into the root zone. Do not amend the soil with lime or manure in the same year that potatoes are to be grown. Lime and manure increase the risk of potato scab disease. Planting and Care Potatoes are a cool season crop; ideal temperatures for crop growth are 65 to 80 during the day and 55 to 65 at night. The soil should be cultivated 6 to 8 inches deep in the spring, and large soil clods should be broken up or removed before planting. Plant potatoes when soil temperatures are above 45 F. Cold, wet soil at planting time increases the risk of seed piece decay, and planting into cool, dry soils can cause delayed sprouting and emergence of the potatoes. Figure 6: Plant seed pieces 3 to 4 inches deep and space 9 to 12 inches apart. Plant tuber seed pieces 3 to 4 inches deep. Leaving 30 to 36 inches between rows and spacing seed pieces 9 to 12 inches apart in the row will generally produce an acceptable yield of medium‐sized tubers (Figure 6). Five pounds of seed potatoes should plant 40 feet of row with 12 inches between seed pieces. You can expect to harvest 3 to 5 pounds of potatoes per potato plant. Larger tubers are produced at wider plant spacings, though some varieties, for example, Yukon Gold, develop growth defects such as hollow heart at a wider spacing. Potato plants should be “hilled” when the plants are 8 to 12 inches tall (Figure 7). Figure 7: When the plants are 8‐12 inches tall they should be hilled to keep tubers covered and prevent greening. Mound the soil to a height of 3 to 6 inches and approximately 12 to 15 inches from the base of the plant. Use care to prevent damage to the plant roots, which may extend 8 to 12 inches from the base of the plant. Hilling maintains suitable soil cover for tubers as they expand. Tubers that break the soil surface may have green areas that contain bitter tasting glycoalkaloids and should not be eaten. Discard or cut off the green portions. Planting and Care of Potatoes in Your Garden Avoid planting potatoes in the same location year after year. To lower the risk of disease and insect problems, do not plant in areas where tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, radishes or beets were grown the previous year. Water Requirements Potatoes are very sensitive to soil moisture and do best with a consistent soil moisture level. Even soil moisture levels throughout the root zone should be maintained, though over‐ wet and saturated conditions should be avoided. In general, 1 inch of water per week from rainfall or irrigation is adequate. As much as 2 inches per week may be required on sandy soils with low organic matter. Dry soil alternating with periods of saturated soil can result in poor quality tubers with defects such as knobs, growth cracks, hollow heart and internal browning. Long periods of excess moisture, particularly near maturity, may lead to decreased yields and poor quality tubers. Pest and Disease Control You can help alleviate pest problems by changing the location in your home garden where potatoes are planted, through regular inspection, and by removing “volunteer” potato plants, which can serve as a host for diseases that can damage the new crop. Shallow cultivation is preferred for weed control. For late season weed control, pull weeds instead of hoeing them to prevent tuber damage. Mulches can be beneficial in weed control as well as helping to maintain soil moisture. Scab disease may be a problem (Figure 8). Scab is caused by a common soil borne organism that causes disease only on tubers. Some varieties are more resistant than others to scab; tolerant varieties include Onaway and Superior. Tubers with scab are fine to eat. Just peel or cut off the circular rough skin. Figure 8: Common scab disease in potato. Insects such as the Colorado potato beetle (Figure 9) can be controlled by destroying eggs which are laid on the underside of the leaf. This can be done by crushing the eggs or removing the leaf with the eggs and disposing of them in the trash away from the garden. Additionally, you will want to remove larva and adults by hand, disposing of them when the numbers are small. The potato is subject to several seed, foliar and tuber disorders that may affect quality and appearance. See Table 1 (Page 6) for information on the potato disorders most common to home gardeners. Figure 9: The Colorado potato beetle eggs, larvae and adult stages. Common Problems in Home Potato Gardens Table 1. Potato disorders, causes and remedies Symptom Possible Cause Remedy Seed Disorders Rotted seed pieces Soil too wet/cold or too hot/dry at planting Plant whole seed when soil temp. is > 45°F Foliar Disorders Reddish brown decay or lesions on sprout, below‐ground stem and stolons Rhizoctonia: develops in cold wet soils and when seed is planted too deep (> 3‐4 inches) Plant when soil temp. is above 45°F; plant seed pieces 3‐4 inches deep Black, wet rot of stem, mostly at ground level Bacterial soft rot; referred to as ""Blackleg"" Plant whole, certified seed Reduced plant growth, pale green or yellow leaf color and inward rolling of lower leaves Leaf‐roll virus Purchase new certified seed and control aphids to prevent spread Older leaves have small, dark brown/black lesions with concentric rings. Usually on maturing or stressed plants. Early blight Remove infected foliage from garden area Avoid plant stresses by supplying adequate water and nutrients Dark, water‐soaked areas on leaves and stems. May see a white mold growth on the underside of infected leaves. Late blight Remove infected foliage from garden area Keep foliage dry by watering at the base of the plant. Yellowing of lower leaves and early leaf drop Normal maturing or nitrogen deficiency Add nitrogen to the soil and water Leaf and petiole defoliation; presence of larvae, adult beetles and/or bright orange egg masses on the underside of leaves. Colorado potato beetle By hand collect insects in a container, place in freezer for 1 hour and discard. Leaf damage including: irregular holes, dry brown leaf margins, inward leaf rolling Insect damage from potato leafhopper or cabbage looper By hand collect insects in a container, place in freezer for 1 hour and discard. Tuber Disorders Green skin Exposure to sun or other light Develops over time Hill around plants, store potatoes in the dark Raised and/or pitted corky areas Common scab Use certified seed of resistant varieties. Avoid lime or manure the year potatoes are grown. Avoid carrots, beets and radishes as prior crops Knobby, misshapen tubers Physiological from inconsistent moisture levels Provide uniform growing conditions Splits in the tuber that are healed over‐ ""growth cracks"" Physiological (for example: inconsistent moisture levels) Provide uniform growing conditions Large, shallow gouges in tubers White grubs (large brown/cream larvae often curled into a C‐shape) Gardens near long grass are at greater risk Brown cavities near the heart of the tuber‐""hollow heart"" Physiological (seed pieces planted too far apart; inconsistent moisture levels) Plant seed closer to avoid oversized tubers; water consistently Planting and Care of Potatoes in Your Garden Harvesting Time of maturity varies for each variety. Indicators of tuber maturity include complete vine death, “skin set” (tuber skin does not peel from the flesh when pressure is applied) and desired tuber size. Mature tubers store better and are less likely to bruise or decay than immature tubers. New or small tubers can be harvested early without destroying the entire plant by careful digging and removing some of the tubers. The remaining tubers should be left to grow and reach full maturity. Harvest potatoes before a severe frost. Use a spade or fork to loosen the soil and gently lift the tubers out of the soil (Figure 10). To prevent greening and sunburn damage, do not allow tubers to be exposed to light after harvesting. Figure 10: Since potatoes grow underground, harvest time is always a big surprise! Storage For two to three weeks after harvest, store tubers in the dark at 55 to 60°F with high relative humidity to heal bruised and damaged areas that could provide entrance for disease organisms. Store only the healthy potatoes that are reasonably free from soil. After healing, proper storage conditions should include cool temperatures (near 40°F), darkness to prevent greening, high humidity and adequate ventilation. Storing tubers in plastic bags (or any tightly sealed container) will restrict the movement of fresh air around the tubers and can lead to rot. Store above freezing (root cellar) or garage if it does not freeze. Acknowledgements The authors wish to express their appreciation to the following for efforts in producing this guide: MSU Potato Breeding and Genetics Program. Daniel Zarka, Joseph Coombs, Kimberly Felcher, Karen Renner, Richard Chase, Anna Zarka, Evan Zarka Visit MSU’s Potato Breeding and Genetics Program website at https://www.msu.edu/~douchesd/ © Michigan State University and the MSU Potato Breeding and Genetics Program", , "l/fr iC>:fiC- - Q O "" O L Introduction to potato production H.P. Beukema and D.E. van der Zaag """"\ Pudoc Wageningen 1990 'SÀ/z ^?3/J CIP-Data Koninklijke Bibliotheek, Den Haag Beukema, H.P. Introduction to potato production / H.P. Beukema and D.E. van der Zaag. - Wageningen : Pudoc. - 111. With ref. ISBN 90-220-0963-7 bound SISO 632.4 UDC 633.491 NUGI 835 Subject heading: potato production. ISBN 90-220-0963-7 NUGI 835 The student edition of this book, distributed by the International Agricultural Centre, Wageningen, is not for sale. Cover: Fred Helfrich, Deventer. Photograph: CABO Photografic Service, Wageningen. © Centre for Agricultural Publishing and Documentation (Pudoc), Wageningen, 1990. No part of this publication, apart from bibliographic data and brief quotations embodied in critical reviews, may be reproduced, re-recorded or published in any form including print, photocopy, microfilm, electronic or electromagnetic record without written permission from the publisher: Pudoc, P.O. Box 4, 6700 AA Wageningen, the Netherlands. Printed in the Netherlands. Contents 12 13 13 13 14 16 18 19 21 21 23 Foreword W o The potato throughout the world, with special reference to the tropics and sub-tropics 1.1 Distribution 1.2 Recent developments in production 3 Utilization 1.4 Production systems 5 Production cost 6 Farm and consumer prices 7 Potatoes in comparison with other foodstuffs 8 Possibilities to increase potato consumption in the tropics and sub-tropics 1.9 Estimates of potential yield in the temperate zones and in the tropical and sub-tropical zones 25 25 26 27 28 29 30 32 32 32 32 32 33 34 34 35 35 35 37 38 38 The potato plant 2.1 Haulm 2.2 Roots 2.3 Tubers 2.3.1 Skin 2.3.2 Cork and wound-periderm formation 2.4 Sprouts Dormancy and sprout growth 3.1 Dormancy 3.2 Length of dormancy 3.2.1 Variety 3.2.2 Maturity of the tuber 3.2.3 Field and weather conditions during growth 3.2.4 Storage conditions 3.2.5 Injuries 3.3 Initiation of sprout growth 3.4 Sprout growth 3.4.1 Physiological stage of the tuber 3.4.2 Growth rate of sprouts and physiological age of the seed 3.4.3 Growth rate and de-sprouting 3.4.4 Growth rate of sprouts and temperature 39 3.4.5 Humidity and sprout growth 39 3.4.6 Light and sprout growth 39 3.4.7 Variety and sprout growth 39 3.4.8 Tuber size and sprout growth 41 3.5 Growth vigour 42 4 Crop ecophysiology 42 4.1 Introduction 42 4.2 Production determining factors 42 4.2.1 Photosynthesis 42 4.2.1.1 Introduction 43 4.2.1.2 Temperature 44 4.2.1.3 Light intensity and light interception 46 4.2.1.4 Leafage 47 4.2.1.5 Carbon dioxide concentration 50 4.2.2 Respiration 52 4.2.3 Partitioning of assimilates 53 4.3 Factors determining growing pattern 53 4.3.1 Introduction 53 4.3.2 Pre-emergence and emergence 53 4.3.3 Haulm growth - tuber growth 54 4.3.4 Factors affecting haulm growth and tuber growth 54 4.3.4.1 Day length and temperature 56 4.3.4.2 Light intensity 56 4.3.4.3 Physiological age of the seed 56 4.3.4.4 Plant density 56 4.3.4.5 Nitrogen and water 57 4.3.4.6 Varieties and species 57 4.3.4.7 Growth regulators 57 4.3.5 Interaction of factors influencing the growth pattern 57 4.3.6 Flowering 58 4.4 Tuber yield 58 4.4.1 Introduction 58 4.4.2 Tuber yield expressed as daily production and number of days 58 4.4.2.1 Daily production 60 4.4.2.2 Number of production days 60 4.4.3 Tuber yield explained in terms of intercepted PAR, utilization coefficient of foliage, harvest index and tuber dry matter 61 5 A method for calculating tuber yield 61 5.1 Methods for simulating crop growth and/or calculating tuber yield 62 5.2 Explanation of this simple model for calculating tuber yield 63 5.3 An example of how to calculate tuber yield, cumulative light interception and utilization efficiency of foliage 65 5.4 Application of the model 65 5.4.1 Calculating potential yield 66 5.4.2 Identifying production contrains in a region 67 5.4.3 Explaining differences in yield in field experiments 69 6 Marketable yield and plant population 69 6.1 Yield and tuber size 70 6.2 Plant density and tuber size 71 6.3 Plant density and seed rate 71 6.3.1 Number of sprouts per seed tuber 72 6.3.2 Potential number of sprouts and plant density 72 6.3.2.1 Number of sprouts planted and number of main stems 73 6.3.2.2 Sprout damage and number of stems 73 6.3.2.3 Soil conditions and number of stems 73 6.4 Distribution of stems 73 6.4.1 Seed size and distribution of stems 74 6.4.2 Row distance and distribution of stems 74 6.5 Optimum density - seed rate 76 6.6 Density and multiplication rate 77 7 Seed requirements - seed treatment 77 7.1 Standards of health in relation to virus diseases 79 7.2 Seed size - sorting and grading 80 7.3 Physiological age and storage of seed 80 7.'4 Temporary storage of seed 81 7.5 Breaking dormancy 81 7.6 Seed cutting 82 7.6.1 Measures to prevent seed piece decay 83 7.6.2 Seed cutting in practice 83 7.7 Pre-sprouting 85 8 Soil requirements: seed bed preparation, planting and ridging 85 8.1 Impermeable layers 85 8.2 Emergence and seed bed 87 8.3 Planting depth and emergence 87 8.4 Planting depth and covering the developing tubers with soil 88 8.5 Seed bed preparation 88 8.6 Ridging and time for final earthing up 88 8.6.1 Soil moisture and soil temperature 89 8.6.2 Weed control 89 8.7 Planting and ridging systems in the Netherlands 89 8.7.1 Light soils 89 8.7.2 Medium light soils 90 8.7.3 Medium heavy soils 90 8.8 Planting and ridging in other regions 92 9 Manuring 92 9.1 Nutrients affecting yield and quality 94 9.2 Placing fertilizers 95 9.3 Farmyard manure 97 10 Water supply 97 10.1 Effect on growth, yield and tuber quality 97 10.1.1 Period between planting and emergence 97 10.1.2 Period between emergence and beginning of tuber growth 98 10.1.3 Period after the beginning of tuber growth (bulking period) 99 10.2 Amount of water needed 99 10.2.1 Evapotranspiration and transpiration 102 10.2.2 Amount of soil water available for crop growth 103 10.2.3 Water supply to replenish soil moisture used 106 10.3 Irrigation systems 106 10.3.1 Furrow irrigation 106 10.3.2 Sprinkler irrigation 108 11 Specific weather conditions affecting yield and quality 108 11.1 Hail and night frost 108 11.2 High temperatures 108 11.2.1 Second growth 109 11.2.2 Internal brown spot 110 11.2.3 Black heart 111 12 Tuber quality 111 12.1 Dry matter content 113 12.1.1 Variation in dry matter content between tubers of the same batch 114 12.2 Reducing sugar content 114 12.2.1 Variety 114 12.2.2 Degree of maturity of the tubers 115 12.2.3 Growing conditions 116 12.2.4 Storage temperature 118 12.2.5 Physiological development of tubers 118 12.3 Discolouration after peeling and black spot 120 12.4 Discolouration after cooking 120 12.4.1 pH 120 12.4.2 Ratio of citric acid to chlorogenic acid 121 12.4.3 Factors influencing discolouration 121 12.5 Glycoalkaloids 122 12.5.1 Variety 123 12.5.2 Conditions and circumstances influencing the SG content of tubers 124 13 Disease and pest control systems 124 13.1 Disease and its control 124 13.1.1 Integrated control of diseases 124 13.1.2 Reduction of crop losses 125 13.1.3 Preventing the introduction of diseases 125 13.2 General methods of disease and pest control 125 13.2.1 Cultural practices 126 13.2.1.1 Soil tillage, planting and ridging methods 126 13.2.1.2 Seed preparation 127 13.2.1.3 Water supply: drainage and irrigation 127 13.2.1.4 Roguing and haulm destruction 128 13.2.1.5 Harvest, handling and storage methods 128 13.2.2 Use of clean seed 128 13.2.3 Tuber disinfection 128 13.2.3.1 Pre-storage treatment 129 13.2.3.2 Wet treatment of tubers 129 13.2.3.3 Fumigation of tubers 129 13.2.3.4 Dusting tubers at the time of planting 130 13.2.4 Soil treatment 130 13.2.5 Foliar application of fungicides 131 13.2.6 Rotation 131 13.2.7 Isolation 131 13.3 Control of virus diseases 133 13.4 Insect control 134 14 Carves* 134 < ^JAi_JHme of harvest^ 135 14.2 Haulm destruction 136 14.2.1 Methods of haulm destruction 137 14.2.2 Stem end and vascular ring necrosis 137 14.3 Harvesting operations, transport and storage 138 14.3.1 Time between lifting and collection 138 14.3.2 ! Damage during transport and grading 139 15 Storage principles 139 15.1 Methods and duration of storage 140 15.2 Storage losses and storage requirements 140 15.2.1 Evaporation losses 141 15.2.2 Respiration losses 142 15.2.3 Sprout growth losses 142 15.2.4 Losses caused by fungi, bacteria and insects 143 15.2.5 Physiological stage 143 15.2.6 Chemical composition 144 15.3 'Aspects' affecting the keeping quality of tubers 144 15.3.1 Tuber quality and skin 144 15.3.2 Ventilation 148 15.3.3 Temperature 148 15.3.3.1 Storage in the soil 149 15.3.3.2 Naturally ventilated stores 150 15.3.3.3 Outside air cooling with forced ventilation 151 15.3.3.4 Refrigeration 152 15.3.4 Moisture and humidity 153 15.3.5 Light 154 15.3.6 Chemicals 154 15.4 Storage methods and storage capacity 155 16 Seed potatoes: quality, use, supply and production 155 16.1 Quality 155 16.1.1 Multiplication rate and degeneration rate 157 16.1.2 Physiological age and storage of seed 159 16.1.3 Fungal and bacterial diseases, nematodes 160 16.2 Seed use and supply 160 16.2.1 Methods of improving and/or maintaining seed stocks at farm level 161 16.2.1.1 Adjustment of planting seasons 161 16.2.1.2 Selection 162 16.2.1.3 Disinfection of seed 163 16.2.2 Seed sources 164 16.3 Seed programmes 164 16.3.1 'Complete'seed programmes versus'incomplete'programmes 165 16.3.2 Organization of a seed programme and its objectives 168 16.3.3 The seed market and seed quantity and quality 168 16.3.4 Management, production and storage 169 16.3.5 Seed quality and rational use 169 16.4 Basic seed production 169 16.4.1 Clonal selection 170 16.4.2 Rapid multiplication 171 16.4.3 Multiplication in test tubes (in-vitro multiplication) 171 J^46.4.4 True potato seed (TPS) 172 16.5 Seed potato production and virus diseases 173 16.5.1 Infection sources and isolated areas 173 16.5.2 Low vector population 174 16.5.2.1 Aphid population 175 16.5.3 Vector control 176 16.5.4 Mineral oils 176 16.5.5 Maturity resistance 176 16.5.6 Resistant varieties 176 16.6 Seed quality and inspection 178 16.6.1 Field inspection 178 16.6.2 Laboratory tests 179 16.6.3 Post-harvest control 179 16.6.4 Bulk inspection 179 16.6.5 Verification plots, check plots or control plots 180 16.6.6 Seed inspection regulations 181 16.6.7 Seed certification in the Netherlands 182 16.6.7.1 Plant quarantine regulations 182 16.6.7.2 Quality of seed planted 183 16.6.7.3 Field inspection and additional laboratory tests 184 16.6.7.4 Lifting dates - haulm destruction dates 184 16.6.7.5 Post-harvest control 184 16.6.7.6 Bulk inspection - certification 185 16.6.7.7 Verification plots 185 16.6.8 Development of seed tolerances 186 17 Varieties and breeding 186 17.1 Developments in potato breeding 187 17.2 Vegetative reproduction 187 17.3 Phenotype variation 187 17.3.1 Tetraploids 188 17.3.2 Diploids 189 17.3.3 Wild and primitive potato species 190 17.3.4 Environmental variation 190 17.3.5 Expected progress in breeding 191 17.4 Breeding objectives and choice of parents 192 17.5 Flowering, pollen and seed 192 17.6 Selection procedures 193 ,17.7 Breeding methods 194 117.7.1 New methods and techniques 195 Î7.1T Varieties and their properties 195 17.9 Determination of characteristics 195 17.9.1 Indirect evaluation 196 17.9.1.1 Yield characteristics 196 17.9.1.2 Tolerance of weather conditions and physiological disorders 196 17.9.2 Direct tests 196 17.9.2.1 Potato leaf roll virus 197 17.9.2.2 Field resistance to viruses X, S, M, Y 197 17.9.2.3 Immunity to viruses A, X and Y 197 17.9.2.4 Virus tolerance 198 17.9.2.5 Resistance to common scab 198 17.9.2.6 Late blight resistance 199 17.10 Variety testing programme 200 17.10.1 Preliminary trials 200 17.10.2 Regional trials 200 17.10.3 Introductory trials 201 References 206 Appendices 208 The authors Foreword The contents of this book are similar to the syllabi used in the International Potato Course, mainly intended for students from tropical and sub-tropical countries, which is organized annually by the International Agricultural Centre at Wageningen. Soon after the start of the Course in 1972 wider interest was expressed in these syllabi. Therefore it was decided to bring them together in a book in a revised edition. After 9 years the first edition is out of print. In this second edition some new chapters have been added, some chapters have been drastically revised and in various other chapters only a few minor alterations have been introduced. However, the purpose of this book has not changed. It is still the intention of the authors that the book should help the reader to discover the most important factors which influence the production and development of the potato crop and to comprehend their interaction. For it is only with an adequate understanding of and insight into the crop that reliable proposals for crop improvement can be made. Review literature has been restricted as much as possible to prevent the reader from being unable see the wood for the trees. If he or she needs more information about literature on a specific topic, the existing potato handbooks should be consulted. We believe that our publication does not compete with them, but will serve as a supplement to these handbooks and to existing practical guides for potato production. At least that was our intention, although we have to admit that some chapters more closely resemble the syllabus than others with the consequence that some topics are discussed on more than one place. Nevertheless, we hope that this revised publication will also find its niche. 1 The potato throughout the world, with special reference to the tropics and sub-tropics 1.1 Distribution After maize the potato is the most widely distributed crop in the world. It is grown in about 140 countries, more than 100 of which are located in the tropical and subtropical zones. However, most production is still concentrated in the temperate regions in the industrialized countries. Almost a third of the crop is produced in developing countries, mainly the countries in Asia (table 1). The potato originates from the mountains of South America where it has been an important food crop for a long time. In the 16th century the potato was introduced to Europe as a curiosity. Gradually it became a food crop, especially when varieties were selected which were adapted to the long day conditions. In the 18th and 19th centuries it was already an important food crop, especially for the poor in various countries in Europe. In North America too, where immigrants from Europe had taken tubers along with them, it found its place among other food crops. During the 19th century the potato was introduced to several tropical and sub-tropical countries, mainly by colonists from Europe. In more recent years the potato has spread to many countries with warmer and drier climates and it has become important in regions such as North Africa, the plains of India, Bangladesh and Pakistan, Central America, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay and the coastal plains of Peru. 1.2 Recent developments in production During the last decade the total area of the world cropped with potatoes has decreased slightly. The area decreased in Western Europe, but remained fairly stable Table I. Potato production throughout the world (FAO Production Yearbook, 1986). World Countries with market economies industrialized countries developing countries Countries with centrally planned economies Europe (incl. USSR) Asia 13 Number of countries 129 27 90 8 4 Production (106 tonnes) 309 74 38 150 47 14 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION 1 AREA Asian (CPE] ^~^~-^____^ '~ËE ' •—. 74/ 75/ 76/ 77/ 78/ 79/ 80/ 81/ 82/ 83/ 84/ /76 /77 /78 /79 /SO /81 '82 /83 /84 /85 /86 7V76 75/77 76/78 77/79 7 % 0 7%1 B%2 81/83 82/84 83 / 8 5 8V6 6 Fig. 1. Land area in potatoes and potato production in countries in the Northern Hemisphere with market economies and in centrally planned economies (CPE) 1974/76-1984/86 (3-year moving averages; 1974/76 = 100; based on data from FAO Production Yearbooks). N.A. = North America; W.E. = Western Europe; E.E. = Eastern Europe (CPE). in Asian countries with centrally planned economies (CPE) (fig. 1) and increased considerably in the developing countries with the exception of Latin America (fig. 2). During this period total production in Europe and North America did not change much (fig. 1), but increased considerably in the developing countries (figures 1 and 2). The greatest increase in production occurred in Asia and Africa. Total production almost doubled in the Asian countries with market economies. This increase in production is partly due to increases in yield and area (e.g.in Asia) or only due to an increase in yield (e.g. in Europe, North America and Latin America) or only due to an increase in area (e.g. in Africa). 1.3 Utilization Less than half of the total potato production is used for human consumption (table 2). In 1982 almost a third was still used for stock feed, mainly in Eastern Europe (Poland and USSR). Potatoes for starch' production are concentrated in the Netherlands, Eastern Europe and Japan. The use of potatoes for alcohol production is negligible. The large amount of potatoes used for fodder is also demonstrated by the big THE POTATO THOUGHOUT THE WORLD 15 IbU 150 140 130 i?n 110 100 qn <<• AREA Africa ^^ ^ / I l l I I 79/e, 8%2 8,/e3 82 /k 1ÖU 170 160 150 140 130 120 110 100 90 PRODUCTION F.E„'- / ' / / / / / / / « / /' /^ \ / / /Africa // / ^ / --""'''S / ^ ''''"" / /*^ ,'' / / s^ ''/' /—-—-^ LA • ' '^ ^ ^-—-^""^ i i i i i i i i i i 7V76 n l n 76/78 77/79 78/80 7%1 ,2/84 83/8= Fig. 2. Land area in potatoes and potato production in developing market economies 1974/76-1984/86 (3-year moving averages; 1974/76 = 100; based on data from FAO Production Yearbooks). F.E. = Far East; N.E. = Near East, L.A. = Latin America. difference in potato production and consumption per head of population in Eastern Europe (table 3). Production per capita is still low in the developing countries particularly in Africa and the Far East. Consequently, consumption per capita is also low in these regions but is increasing in most developing countries. In Western Europe and North America consumption per capita has decreased, but has remained fairly stable during the last decade. In Eastern Europe consumption per capita is higher than in Western Europe but seems to have decreased slightly. 16 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION Table 2. Utilization of the world potato crop (van der Zaag & Horton, 1983; based on datafrom C1P, 1982). Use Human consumption Stock feed Seed Starch Quantity (106 tonne) 126 88 39 6 Percentage of total 45 31 14 2 Table 3. Potato production and consumption (in kg) per capita 1980/'82 (Horton & Fano, 1985). World Developed market economies North America Western Europe Oceania Developing market economies Africa Latin America Near East Far East Centrally planned economies Asia Eastern Europe (incl. USSR) Production 66 89 69 129 62 15 9 31 29 10 126 54 331 Consumption 28 55 54 73 52 11 7 23 22 7 38 28 94 1.4 Production systems In the industrialized countries, particularly in North America, and in most countries of Western Europe, potato production has been almost completely mechanized. One hectare of ware potatoes (50 tonnes) can now be produced and stored in about 20-40 man hours only, whereas some 30 years ago, one hectare (30 tonnes) required over 200 man hours. This reduction in labour was coupled with heavy investment in machines and stores. Another consequence of this mechanization is the concentration and specialization of the crop on special farms and in certain regions. In Western Europe potato production has greatly decreased e.g. in West Germany and France, but it has increased in the Netherlands. Approximately two thirds of the Netherlands' total production is exported in fresh or processed form. There is a wide variation in production systems in the developing countries, depending on local growing and market conditions. In the Andes, Central Africa and the Himalaya region, the potato is produced usually by small subsistence farmers who grow less than 1-2 ha on a number of small scattered fields. In these areas a typical rainfed crop is often subject to poor weather conditions such as drought, heavy rains, frost, hail and typhoons. Part of the crop harvested is kept for seed. In regions where THE POTATO THOUGHOUT THE WORLD 17 potatoes are relatively cheap, which is usually the case at high altitudes, a large proportion of the crop is stored in a very simple way and used for home consumption. In regions where potatoes are relatively expensive, such as in Central America and South East Asia, the farmers sell a large proportion to purchase cheaper food with the earnings and possibly means to improve crop production. This is certainly the case in regions where the crop is irrigated e.g. North Africa, the plains in India, Bangladesh and Pakistan. Owing to its short growing season the potato plays an important role , in: - several vegetable production regions e.g. in Sri Lanka - in crop rotations with rice and wheat e.g. in the Punjab in India - in intercropping with beans, maize and sugar cane (e.g. on Mauritius). The potato is not a suitable crop for the hot and humid lowlands where temperature is high the whole year round. On the upper slopes of the Andes old varieties (usually S. andigenum) with a long vegetative period are used. These varieties are highly resistant to Phytophthora infestans and are able to regenerate when damaged by extreme weather conditions such as frost or hail. Moreover, the field of crop which is used for home consumption is very often planted with a mixture of several varieties. In Colombia it has been proven that by crossing with S. tuberosum, varieties can be developed with a shorter growing period which are still suitable for production in the mountains. In most regions of the world varieties are used with a rather short vegetative period, particularly in the tropics and sub-tropics where under short day conditions the vegetative period of the imported varieties from the temperate zones becomes even shorter. In comparison with other food crops the production of the potato, expressed in dry matter, energy or protein per hectare and per day, is high (table 4). With regard to energy efficiency the potato may well be the best crop in the tropics and sub-tropics and it is probably one of the best crops for protein production. Owing to its short vegetative period (under short day growing conditions usually less than 100-120 days) and its high efficiency in producing energy and valuable protein it is a favoured crop in rotations where a short growing period fits in well. Table 4. Top ranking food crops in terms of production of dry matter, edible energy and protein in developing market economies (Horton & Fano, 1985). Rank 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Dry matter Cassava Yams Potatoes (t/ha) Sweet potatoes Rice Carrots Cabbages Bananas Wheat Maize 3.0 2.4 2.2 2.1 1.9 1.7 1.6 1.5 1.3 1.3 Energy (MJ/ha Potatoes Yams Carrots Maize Cabbages Sweet potatoes Rice Wheat Cassava Eggplants per day) 216 182 162 159 156 152 151 135 121 120 Protein (kg/ha per day) Cabbages Dry broad Potatoes Dry peas Eggplants Wheat Lentils Tomatoes Chickpeas Carrots beans 2.0 1.6 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.3 1.3 1.2 1.1 1.0 18 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION 1.5 Production cost It is very difficult to make a correct comparison of production costs between regions or countries. This is due to the wide variation in production conditions and production systems and by differences in methods of calculating these costs. Nevertheless it is evident that in the developing countries as a whole, the production cost per unit of energy and protein for potatoes is on average two or three times higher than for rice or wheat (bread), whereas in an industrialized country such as the Netherlands, these costs are only slightly higher for potatoes than for wheat or sugar beet (sugar) (table 5). Some information about the structure of the production costs may be useful. Table 6 gives some indication about this. In the six developing countries mentioned in this Table 5. Production cost and consumer price of potatoes and some other foods (in US $) in 1981 (partly after van der Zaag & Horton, 1983). Yield Production cost Consumer price' (t/ha) (ha) energy protein energy protein (10« kJ) (kg) (10« kJ) (kg) Developing countries Potatoes Wheat (bread) \ Rice Netherlands Potatoes Wheat (bread) Sugar beet (sug uf ar) 10.5 1.4 2.1 45 6.5 50 1520 250 380 2500 1400 1900 47 14 18 18 17 14 7 2 4 3 2 - 114 47 52 95 116 52 18 5 11 15 13 - 1. Edible part of the foods. Table 6. Cost structure for the potato crop in some selected countries (van der Zaag & Horton, 1983). Structure Labour Equipment (incl. fuel) Seed Fertilizers chemical organic Pesticides Peru 16 10 29 14 14 17 Colombia 34 6 24 22 0 14 Bangladesh 20 15 36 26 2 1 India 18 6 45 18 9 4 Kenya 54 6 21 4 8 7 Rwanda 62 0 38 0 0 0 Netherlands 20 38 20 12 0 10 1. Fixed costs not included. THE POTATO THOUGHOUT THE WORLD 19 table, labour and seed potatoes form the major costs (34 % and 32 % respectively), whilst in the Netherlands the cost of equipment predominates. 1.6 Farm and consumer prices Obviously a crop which is liable to wide variation in yield and which cannot be easily stored well in a hot climate, will show wide variations in farm and consumer prices. In almost all developing countries where potato production is of some importance, prices drop sharply at harvest time in spite of growing more than one crop per year (fig. 3). Nevertheless, the farm price as a percentage of the retail price seems to be much larger in developing countries than in some industrialized countries (table 7). As the consumer (or retail) price can vary greatly even in one region, it will be difficult to make a correct comparison between the consumer price of potatoes and some other foods for different parts of the world. However, table 8 gives the reader at least some indication about the price ratio between potatoes and other foods in various parts of the world. As bread or wheat flour is often subsidized and, moreover, as in most developing countries potatoes must be considered as a vegetable, it is better to compare potato prices with vegetable prices (table 9). Potatoes appear to be much cheaper than most common vegetables. S H/ 120 110 100 90 80 70 60 .Harvest 2m 3m 4m 5m, .Harvest 2m 3m 4m 5m, 2 4 6 8 10 12 H 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 3« 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 weeks Fig. 3. Average constant weekly wholesale prices for potatoes in Wakulina market, Nairobi 1973-77 (two-week moving average) (source: Ministry of Agriculture in Kenya, published by Durr & Lorenzl, 1980). Table 7. Farm price as a percentage of retail price in selected regions and countries (number of countries between brackets) based on FAO, unpublished; ILO, 1978; van der Zaag & Horton, 1983). Africa (10) Latin America (6) Near East (2) 52 69 54 Far East (7) North America (2) The Netherlands 61 22 33 20 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION Table 8. Average cost (in US $) of 106 kJ food energy and 1 kg protein from potatoes, bread and rice 1977 (number of countries between brackets) (van der Zaag & Horton, 1983). Potatoes Bread Rice energy / protein energy protein energy protein Developed countries USA Western Europe (14) Eastern Europe (4) Developing countries Africa (20) Latin America (13) Near East (4) Far East (9) 129 87 126 171 129 142 90 20 14 20 27 20 22 24 90 03 83 61 77 34 61 10 12 9 7 9 4 7 56 79 85 50 40 61 24 11 16 17 10 8 12 5 fresh weight 100 193 157 119 139 energy 100 911 284 338 459 protein 100 186 314 238 139 Table 9. Relationship between the average consumer price of potatoes and some other selected vegetables in the capitals of several developing countries (number of cities on which the price is based is given between brackets) (Preise und Preinsindizes im Ausland, Reihe 11, 1984). Vegetables Consumer price per unit Potatoes (10) Tomatoes (9) Onions (9) Carrots (6) Cabbages (5) Why is the retail price ratio of potatoes, as expressed in terms of energy and protein, with other staple foods so much higher in developing countries than say, in the Netherlands (tables 5 and 8)? It seems very likely that the relatively high production cost of potatoes in most developing countries is the main reason for this fairly high consumer price and that this high price is largely not caused by a high marketing margin (table 7), as is often supposed. Differences in the position of the potato crop in the various growing regions are so wide that after this very general description and conclusion, a more specific description would be useful. In the uplands of the tropics and sub-tropics the potato is usually the main food crop and can compete easily in price with other foodstuffs. In the irrigated regions at harvest and shortly thereafter the potato is competitive in price with non-subsidized staple food, e.g. with rice in Bangladesh. After this period the potato should be considered as a vegetable. In several regions where the potato has been introduced recently, the potato is still often a luxury vegetable, but with the potential to become a cheap vegetable provided that the production conditions are not marginal. THE POTATO THOUGHOUT THE WORLD 21 1.7 Potatoes in comparison with other foodstuffs From the point of view of nutritive value the potato is competitive with other foodstuffs (table 10). The reader is referred to 'The potato in the human diet' by Jennifer A. Woolfe for further information. 1.8 Possibilities to increase potato consumption in the tropics and sub-tropics In the industrialized countries potato consumption has decreased with increase in income. But for the 51 developing countries with a low consumption per capita it has been estimated that potato consumption will increase by about 2 % if the price decreases by 1 %, and that consumption will increase by the same percentage as the increase in income (van der Zaag & Horton, 1983). A decrease in the retail price should be accomplished by reducing the production cost per unit weight, which can be done in two ways: by reducing production cost per ha while maintaining yield and by increasing the yield while holding the cost per hectare steady. Reducing the production cost per hectare will be achieved by reducing the major costs which, in the developing countries, are labour and seed potatoes (table 6). Although this should receive a great deal of attention, even more may be expected from an increase in yield. Figure 4 shows that during the last 15 years much has been achieved in the developing countries. During the period 1965-1980, the accumulated calculated increase in yield expressed in terms of energy and protein in all developing countries with market economies was even higher for potatoes than for wheat and rice (van der Zaag & Horton, 1983). There is no reason to suppose that this increase in yield cannot be continued, although it should not be expected that a yield level can be attained in the tropics and sub-tropics which is similar to the yield level in the temperate zones. To prove this statement we must introduce the concept of potential yield or biological yield. 7V76 75/77 76 / 7 8 ""/79 7%0 79/81 8%2 % ""/u 83/85 8'/86 Fig. 4. Potato yields in developing market economies 1974/76-1984/86 (3-year moving averages 1974/76 = 100; based on data from FAO Production Yearbooks). F.E. = Far East; N.E. = Near East; L.A. = Latin America. 22 INTRODUCTION TO POTATO PRODUCTION o o a o o o. o -O ""O CJ 60 O -o o o J3 O -O C O O, O 'S O O O. Ë O U o u,—. O „ 0 0 M O j - < 2 5 o) op ••2 S e f S H S iy-1 o T l"" NO O — —• O O r- oo oo o T J - N O o ca •* — ih ON O o o C l o NO o Tto o NO o o 00 s 00 Ë ca u —, — CNl i/""> ' c*i m — — (N — m o ON rO O O —; T t —; oo r*1 Ö —' o — — -HU~tTfooOw~it^t^Or o — TJ- -*3- ~~; m O O "" ^ T Ï (N'daJ(NiodmÖ-'ONfNCNid ( N (NC>fNi^'N t 1 -e -o _ L i ca £3 •o ij 2 o . U o.- 2 2 g —> t— — i *aö ö — Tim — C N | O e n T f ö — —: -* — i O N OO — c W C l — e-, ~~ NO ON o) o NO ON CN| o — oo oo ON N • o a m o CJ GO a o S ON > U ^ O ^_; -P^ -", Q, u, "> N""", , "The University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center VEGETABLE GARDENING Growing Potatoes The authors are Harwood Hall, Farm Advisor, Susan Wada, Technician, and Ronald E. Voss, Extension Vegetable Specialist. POINTS TO REMEMBER Plant certified seed potatoes. One potato vine will yield from 2 to 4 pounds of potatoes. Potatoes are a cool season crop. Potatoes need a light, well-drained soil. Store potatoes in a cool, dark place. PLANTING CALENDAR North Coast (Monterey County-north): March through June South Coast (San Luis Obispo County-south): March through May, July through August Interior Valleys: December through March, July through August Imperial and Coachella Valleys: November through January Division of Agricultural Sciences LEAFLET UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 2802 Page 1 The University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center VARIETIES White Rose: long white; early medium maturity (100 to 120 days after planting); does not store well; good for boiling and potato salad. Red la Soda: round red; early maturity (90 to 100 days after planting); does not store well; good for boiling and potato salad. Norgold Russet: blocky russet; early maturity (90 to 100 days); does not store well; good for baking and boiling. Kennebec: blocky white; early medium maturity (100 to 120 days); stores moderately well; good for frying and hash browns. Russet Burbank: long russet; late maturity (120 to 140 days); stores well; good for baking, frying, hash browns; doesn't grow well in hot areas. SOIL PREPARATION Potatoes need -a well-drained sandy-to-loam soil. They do not grow well in heavy soils. Cultivate the seedbed well, making sure that it is in a loose, friable condition before planting. Mulching the soil with an organic mulch before planting is a good idea. Fertilize at planting time following instructions given below. FERTILIZATION Before planting apply 3 pounds of fertilizer labeled 5-10-5 or 10-10-5, or equivalent, to 100 square feet of soil. (These numbers refer to the respective percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in the fertilizer. Law requires that these percentages be listed on all commercial fertilizer labels.) Fertilizer may be mixed into the soil or applied as a band. To apply as a band, dig a furrow alongside the planting row about 2'/2 inches deeper than you'll plant seed pieces; sprinkle the fertilizer evenly along this furrow and cover with at least 2 inches of soil before planting. PLANTING METHODS Potatoes are started from sections of tubers. Buy certified seed potatoes. (The California Department of Food and Agriculture annually publishes a list of certified seed growers. However, not all of them will supply small quantities. Contact local suppliers ahead of planting to insure that you will be able to purchase the necessary amount of certified seed.) Non-certified seed may have been treated with a sprout inhibitor and probably has potato virus disease, which will reduce yield. Cut seed potatoes into pieces weighing from 1'/z to 2 ounces, each having one or more eyes. Store cut pieces at room temperature and preferably in a humid place for 1 to 2 days before planting to allow the cut surface to form a callus. This decreases rotting. Prepare a planting furrow 3 inches deep, drop seed pieces into the furrows, and fill the furrows to ground level. The rows should be 36 to 39 inches apart and the seed pieces planted 6 to 10 inches apart, depending on the size of the potatoes you want to harvest. Leave the furrow this way for 4 to 6 weeks, and then add 3 more inches of soil so that the seed pieces will be buried 6 inches deep. IRRIGATION Potatoes are shallow-rooted and need frequent light irrigation, 1 to 2 times a week. Constant soil moisture is necessary. If soil dries after tubers have formed, a second growth will start when soil gets moist. This Page 2 The University of California Vegetable Research and Information Center will cause knobby potatoes and multiples. Alternate wet and dry conditions can also cause ""hollow heart,"" or cavities near the center of the potato. CULTIVATION Cultivate carefully to remove weeds, taking care not to injure roots and tubers near ground surface. PEST CONTROL The two insects most likely to cause problems are aphids and potato tubermoth. Standard garden procedures for killing aphids may be used. Potato tubermoth can be avoided by seeing that potato tubers are always covered with soil and that the soil does not crack. The only disease that can be chemically controlled is blight. Fungicide sprays or powders may be used. HARVESTING Small immature tubers can be ""robbed"" from growing plants if care is taken not to disturb the roots and remaining tubers on the plant. However, most of the crop should be harvested when vines die and/or the skin of the tubers is firm, not flaky. Remove vines before digging. Potatoes that mature in the fall where frost and/or heavy rains are not a threat can be left in the ground until needed. If tubers are left in the ground, take care not to expose them to light or soil cracks. After digging, potatoes should be held at room temperature for a week, then ideally stored at 40' to 50a F. They will keep for 6 to 15 weeks at 40"" to 50' F if properly cured (depending on the variety). Higher temperatures decrease their storageability. They will keep longest at 36a to 40' F, but may taste sweet and fry dark. Potatoes are a good source of vitamin C. When freshly cooked, one medium potato provides one-half the adult recommendation (RDA') for vitamin C. It also provides small but useful amounts of other vitamins and minerals such as thiamin, niacin and iron. By itself, the potato is relatively low in calories; but that doesn't include the caloric content of the gravy or sauce often served with it. One medium potato contains about 75 calories, only a little more than the caloric content of an apple. The potato is exceptionally low in sodium content, making it useful for sodium-restricted diets. It also is essentially fat-free and easy to digest. Recommended Daily Dietary Allowance, National Research Council, revised 1974. COOPERATIVE EXTENSION UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA This information is provided by Cooperative Extension, an educational agency of the University of California and the United States Department of Agriculture. Support for Cooperative Extension is supplied by federal, state, and county governments. Cooperative Extension provides the people of California with the latest scientific information in agriculture and family consumer sciences. It also sponsors the 4-H Youth Program. Cooperative Extension representatives, serving 56 counties in California, are known as form, home or youth advisors. Their offices usually are located in the county seat. They will be happy to provide you with information in their fields of work. The University of California's Cooperative Extension Programs are available to all, without regard to race, color, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. James B. Kendrick, Jr., Director, Cooperative Extension, University of California. Page 3 ", "ORGANIC POTATO PRODUCTION ON CALIFORNIA’S CENTRAL COAST: A Guide for Beginning Specialty Crop Growers Introduction Potatoes can be a good addition to a small-scale, mixed specialty crop system. With access to the proper tools for mechanized weed management, hilling, and harvest, they are relatively easy to grow. Multiple varieties offer an array of shapes, sizes, and colors to make potatoes an excellent choice for direct sales, including Community Supported Agriculture (CSA), farmers’ markets, specialty markets, and restaurants. The Central Coast’s climate is ideal for potato production. Yields can reach an impressive 10 tons per acre. This guide describes the steps involved in growing potatoes organically, reviews equipment needs, and provides information on “new” and “creamer” potato growth habits and recommended varieties. Features of potato production • Can be harvested as “new,” “creamer,” or fully cured storage potatoes, all of which can be grown on the same production schedule • Easy to store when fully cured • Mechanization makes weed management and harvest extremely efficient • A good rotation crop where symphylan pressure is high, being extremely tolerant to symphylan feeding pressure; they have been shown to reduce symphylan populations in subsequent crops potatoes 2 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems potatoes PRODUCTION PRACTICES — SUMMARY Soil type and pH • Potatoes grow best in loose, well-drained, non-crusting, sandy loam or loam soils with high organic matter content and pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Site selection • Isolate successive potato plantings, and plant as far as possible from other susceptible crops such as tomatoes to minimize the risk and impact of late blight (Phytopthera infestans). Fertility requirements • Fall/winter cover crop (bell beans, triticale, vetch). • Compost, as needed (5 tons/acre). Soil temperature • Seed pieces can germinate when soil temperatures are cool (less than 55ºF). Bed spacing • Bed spacing of 48” allows for a balance of workability and yield potential. • 30” bed spacing is possible if using 4-gang Lilliston cultivators, disc hillers, or shovels. • 60” beds provide for ease of field operations, but may reduce yield potential. • Potatoes grow best planted in a single line per row to allow for “hilling” (see page 5) to ensure that potatoes are covered with soil. Potatoes exposed to sunlight turn green and become unmarketable. Plant spacing within row • 8–12” between plants in the row. Closer spacing will result in smaller tubers (see page 9, New and Creamer Potatoes). Planting size and depth • Use 1.5–3 ounce seed pieces with at least 2 “eyes.” • Place seed pieces 2–4” deep. Irrigation • Pre-irrigate beds with overhead sprinklers and cultivate for weed management. • Use drip irrigation after planting; overhead irrigation increases risks of fungal infection, Phytopthora infestans (late blight). Days to maturity • Most varieties suitable for the Central Coast region reach full maturity in 100 to 120 days. • Harvest “new” potatoes at the growth stage following bloom when the canopy is full, typically 8–9 weeks after planting, depending on variety and weather. • Harvest “creamers” 10–12 weeks after planting, depending on variety and weather. Crop rotation • Rotate ground out of solanums and strawberries for a minimum of 4 years to break disease cycles. Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 3 potatoes PRODUCTION SEQUENCE — OVERVIEW **Some growers use a flame weeder at this stage, ideally just before potato leaf emergence, but even just after emergence, if necessary. (crop day -25*) In spring, mow cover crop to facilitate breakdown. (crop day -25) Incorporate cover crop residue. (crop day -11) Form beds with rolling cultivator or listing shovels. (crop day -10) Pre-irrigate beds with overhead irrigation (1–1.5”). Wait for dry down and weed emergence. (crop day -3) Cut potato seed in preparation for planting. (crop day -1) Work bed surface lightly with cultivator to terminate weeds and re-form beds. (crop day 0) Create a trench down the center of the bed using a small furrowing shovel or an “Alabama” shovel. Plant potatoes, cover seed lightly with 3–4” of soil using a rolling cultivator (run slowly). (crop day 11) As soon as first weeds appear, cultivate furrow bottoms and bed sides with sweeps and knives. In the same pass, run chisels in furrow bottoms to break tractor tire compaction.** (crop day 11) Set up drip irrigation (crop days 30, 40) Hill plants with soil as potato stems elongate (usually twice prior to bloom). (crop day 30) Begin drip irrigation. Note: Drip irrigate to maintain even moisture until the tubers for main crop harvest are ~75% of desired size, then cut irrigation and let vines die. Potatoes will continue to size up. (crop days 55–95) Check tuber size after flowering. Harvest new potatoes at 8–9 weeks after planting; creamers at 10–12 weeks. (crop day 60) Spot weed large flowering weeds. (crop day 116) Run overhead irrigation (0.25–0.5”) prior to harvest of main crop to make harvest easier and avoid scuffing. (crop days 120, 140) Harvest main potato crop. (crop days 160) Pull drip lines. (crop day 180) Disc plants, prepare soil for fall cover crop. Drill cover crop seed prior to fall/winter rains. *Numbers in parentheses refer to crop day, with crop day 0 = planting day, based on a typical season at the CASFS/ UC Santa Cruz Farm. See Appendix (page 12) for more on crop days and related activities. (crop day -21) Begin chitting potato seed. 4 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems potatoes Production Practices — Additional Details Soil type Potatoes grow best on light textural soil classes: sands and silts with organic matter (O.M.) >3%. Potato tubers have a high respiration rate, and require ample oxygen in the soil. Lighter soils let in air that allow potatoes to breathe. Lighter soil textures also offer less physical resistance to tuber formation; thus the plant can put more caloric energy into forming large, cosmetically even tubers. Lighter, sandier soils also make harvest easier. Heavier soils higher in clay content tend to provide better fertility and water holding capacity, but can cause tuber deformation, and make washing challenging. Although you cannot change the texture of soil, you can enhance its structure by increasing its organic matter content by adding compost and incorporating cover crops (green manures). Fertility Potatoes yield well when planted following incorporation of a mixed legume/cereal cover crop, e.g., bell bean (30–35%), peas (20–30%), vetch (30%), and triticale (10–15%). When incorporated well, the cover crop residue leaves the soil loose and friable, and microbial decomposition releases nutrients to provide adequate fertility (available nutrients). If applying compost, use a rate of not more than 5 tons per acre (100 lb. N per acre) to avoid over-application of nitrogen (N). Excess nitrogen can: • Make plants more susceptible to late blight (Phytopthora infestans) • Delay tuber set and maturation • Increase water content in tubers, which leads to a shorter storage life and more post-harvest physiological disorders Bed spacing Plant potatoes in a single line system to facilitate hilling. Depending on equipment available and standard bed spacing used on your farm, beds can be spaced from 30” up to 60” center to center. Hilling potatoes is more challenging with narrower beds; 4-gang Lilliston cultivators, disc hillers, or shovels are potential options with this spacing. Wider bed spacing means loss of yield potential. Consider the trade-offs between ease of hilling operations, efficiencies of land use, and labor required to adjust equipment. Take into account the other crops you grow, and choose the bed spacing that works best for your farming system as a whole. Timing of planting Spring is the best time to plant potatoes on California’s Central Coast. Potato seed pieces can easily germinate in cool soils (less than 55ºF). Plant following incorporation and initial breakdown of cover crop residue, typically in late April or early May. The goal is for the crop to develop prior to the onset of foggy conditions that favor late blight infestations in late summer (August). Staggered plantings are not recommended in areas where fog may be a factor. Some growers successfully plant in late July, growing a fresh market crop for fall holidays. In inland valleys, potatoes are usually planted in February so that tuber maturation takes place prior to high summer temperatures that can delay tuber formation. Preparing seed potatoes for planting “Certified seed” sold for planting has been inspected and meets the tolerance for pest and disease disorder symptoms established by an agricultural certification program (e.g., White Rock Specialties seed is certified by the Colorado Board of Agriculture). This use of the word “certified seed” is complementary to, and distinct from the meaning of seed that is “certified organic.” The National Organic Program (NOP) requires that organic growers purchase organic seed, unless the variety needed (or an equivalent variety) is not commercially available in an appropriate form, quantity, or quality. To prepare seed for planting (also called “greening” or “chitting”), bring potatoes to room temperature (or warm up your cooler to 50–55ºF) two to three weeks before planting to initiate sprouting. Expose to bright shade, but do not let them dry out while sprouting. Seed potatoes that are large enough can be cut into smaller pieces to extend planting stock volume. Cut tubers into FIGURE 1. Preparing seed pieces for planting. Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 5 potatoes 1.5–3-ounce pieces (a little larger than a hen’s egg) with at least two “eyes” on each cut piece (Figure 1). Cut through the center of the potato and allow the cut to heal over for 3 days prior to planting. Seed cut immediately before planting may experience decay in the ground, especially if soil is too dry or too warm at planting. Planting technique Because tubers form adjacent to and above the seed piece, place seed as deep as possible. Deep planting leaves room to FIGURE 3. Plant potato seed into furrows created by furrowing or Alabama shovels. Photo: Martha Brown FIGURE 4. Potatoes developing in a “hill.” Illustration: Laura Vollset FIGURE 2. Alabama shovels with “drop tubes” for placing seed pieces. Photo: Martha Brown “hill” the plant as the stems elongate (see below). However, plant no deeper than the depth of your harvester to reduce risk of slicing potatoes during harvest. Create a depression down the middle of the planting bed—to the depth of the furrow if possible— using a small furrowing shovel or an “Alabama” shovel (Figure 2). Drop the seed pieces into this depression or trough (Figure 3) and cover with 3–4” of soil (enough to cover the seed pieces and keep them from drying out) by re-forming the bed using a rolling cultivator, reverse disc hillers, or shovels. Hilling potatoes Re-form the beds after planting deep, then again after the plants emerge, building the beds higher to keep potatoes covered with soil as the stems elongate (Figure 4). This re-forming of the bed, or “hilling,” is essential for potato production because it blocks sunlight from the tubers as they form. Any light contact causes “greening”; the presence of chlorophyll and potential for accumulation of toxins (glycoalkaloids), render any green tuber unmarketable. Hilling also facilitates weed management and boosts yields. Potatoes grow remarkably fast once they emerge (usually about 14 days after planting). Do the first mechanical hilling once plants reach a height of 8–10” (within 30–33 days after planting). Use a rolling cultivator during this time of initial growth to smother any weeds germinating in the bed, and to keep furrows clean of annual weeds. Work the furrows with shallow chisels to break tractor wheel compaction and deepen the furrows. Do the second hilling 5–7 days after the first (Figure 5). On small plots, hilling can be done by hand with a shovel. 6 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems potatoes IRRIGATION SEQUENCE • Pre-irrigate with a minimum of 1–1.5” using overhead irrigation (if available) to bring up weeds and provide adequate deep soil moisture to support the early growth stage of the potato seed pieces. Cultivate before planting. (See Tillage, Bed Formation, and Planting to Moisture in this Grower Guide series for additional details.) • Plant seed pieces into residual moisture. • Lay drip line at time of planting or once plants have emerged. • Initiate drip irrigation after plants have emerged and are well established (between 2 and 4 weeks after planting), and the first hilling has taken place. Depending on weather and soil conditions, pre-irrigation moisture deep in the soil may be adequate to support up to 3 or 4 weeks of growth. • Schedule irrigations based on regional evapotranspiration (Et) data (available at cimis. water.ca.gov): – When plants are at 25% canopy (percentage of the bed’s soil covered by crop foliage), irrigate at a rate roughly equal to 25% of the estimated daily Et. – Follow this percent canopy rule to determine irrigation rate; when plants are at 100% canopy, irrigation will match Et. – During the period of tuber enlargement (usually days 60–90), field capacity should not drop below 60–65%. Uneven irrigation in this phase leads to uneven tuber formation and jeopardizes marketability. – Water can be cut to “dry off” and cure crop once plants start to show signs of senescence (yellowing of leaves) and tubers have reached ~75% of marketable size. Wait another 10–14 days before harvest for skins to cure. – Apply .25–.5” of water prior to harvesting the main crop to make harvest easier, and to avoid scuffing spuds, which can compromise salability and storage life. Irrigation Drip irrigation is the best option for potatoes, allowing you to control irrigation rate and timing, and apply water directly to the growing plants. At planting, set the drip lines in the center of the bed on top of the seed pieces; cover it as you close the furrow and bury it further as you hill the potatoes (note that you can also lay drip tape after the plants have emerged). See the irrigation sequence at right. Potatoes can be irrigated overhead, but this method favors development of late blight due to prolonged periods of leaf wetting. If overhead sprinklers are used, irrigate mid-day following dry-down of foliage from morning dew, and shut down the sprinklers early enough for leaves to dry prior to sunset. FIGURE 5. Hilled potatoes at the UC Santa Cruz Farm. Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 7 potatoes GROWTH PHASES Phase 1: Vegetative establishment, 0–30 days Most vegetative growth occurs during this phase. Adequate pre-plant nitrogen (in the nitrite form) ensures a large, effective plant that can support tuber development through sugar and starch translocation. Phase 2: Stolen and tuber initiation, 30–60 days Flowering begins at approximately 40–50 days (Figure 6). Dig “new” potatoes during this phase (see sidebar, page 9). Phase 3: Tuber enlargement, 60–90 days It is critical to provide adequate irrigation during this phase. Dry down should be less pronounced than in phases 1 and 2; never let the plants get to less than 60–65% field capacity. Dig “creamer” potatoes during this phase (see sidebar, page 10). Phase 4: Tuber enlargement, skin set and curing, 90–120 days Tubers enlarge, increase in starch content and individual varietal characteristics. Skins set and thicken, allowing for long-term storage. FIGURE 6. Potatoes begin to flower at approximately 40–50 days post planting. Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum 8 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems potatoes Harvest and harvesting equipment “New” potatoes (see next page) must be harvested by hand. Push a garden fork under the cluster of potatoes and gently lift the plant by the leaves as you push down on the fork handle to raise the tubers to the surface (Figures 7 and 8). New potatoes are extremely delicate; handle very gently to avoid damaging the skin. When harvesting mature tubers by hand, the process is the same. Take extra care not to “fork” through the potatoes, but get under the tubers. FIGURE 7. Harvest new potatoes using a garden fork. Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum FIGURE 8. Handle new potatoes gently to avoid damaging the fragile skins. Photo: Elizabeth Birnbaum Use a dedicated potato harvester or an under-cutter pulled behind a tractor for mechanized harvest. For potato production areas much larger than one-quarter acre, it is best to harvest mature tubers with a dedicated potato harvester, such as a single-row PTO- operated digger with an undercutter bar and shaker cage. The harvester lifts the spuds and leaves them on the soil surface to pick up (Figures 9 and 10). Break the furrow tire compaction with chisels before harvest to ensure that the under-cutter or harvester can get below the lowest tuber and work effectively. Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 9 potatoes CREAMER POTATOES offer another niche market that can generate some early season income due to high demand and relatively low supply. Creamer potatoes are similar to new potatoes in that they are small (2–4” in diameter, 2–4 ounces). They may be dug early or at full maturation. The main distinction is that they have thicker skins and are thus easier to dig and pack than new potatoes, and rival storage potatoes in their shelf life. Although not as moist, light, and sweet as new potatoes, they do have an intense, earthy taste and texture that makes them more distinctive than full-size storage potatoes, and offer more nutritional value than new potatoes. Creamer potatoes show themselves off both on display and on the plate. They can be displayed for loose pack in small net bags by mixing varieties, shapes, sizes, and colors. As with new potatoes, choose early varieties with plants that mature at <90–100 days. In addition to those listed for new potatoes, preferred varieties include: ‘Austrian Crescent’ (fingerling) ‘Early Ohio’ ‘Viking Purple’ Fingerling varieties (2–3” long) can also be adapted for this format. Tips for Growing Creamer Potatoes • Use close in-row spacing when planting (5–6”) • Grow for 10–12 weeks • Kill vines (mechanically) • Dry off (no irrigation) 7–10 days before harvest to set skin • Hand dig, box, and refrigerate • Wash only when needed for packing and distribution NEW POTATOES are simply young, small, freshly-dug potatoes. They must be marketed quickly (within a few days of harvest) and will last only 7–10 days (refrigerated). The possibility of digging 100–200 pounds per day for 2–3 weeks offers early season income and a premium price. Also, if well done, new potatoes can create a loyal following of customers and improve your “brand.” In theory, any variety can be used for new potatoes, but those described as early season (maturing in <90–100 days) work best, as they tend to set ample tubers early, and size up evenly. Suggested varieties include– ‘Red Gold’ ‘Early Red Norland’ (distinct from ‘Dark Red Norland’, which is a high-yielding, mid-season variety) ‘Mountain Rose’ Planting seed of the above varieties are easy to source. They are all spectacularly early and high yielding, producing 2.5–3 pounds/plant at 60+ days from planting. The following also offer a reasonable ratio of pounds per plant to days in the ground (most are red varieties)– ‘Anoka’ (very ‘Cherry Red’ ‘Purple Viking’ early, difficult ‘Desiree’ ‘Red LaSoda’ to source) ‘Early Purple’ ‘Rose Gold’ ‘Caribe’ ‘Kerr’s Pink’ ‘Yukon Gold’ Tips for Growing New Potatoes • Use small, whole seed potatoes (1–2 ounces) • Plant seed 8–9” apart, using standard row spacing • Plant 2–4” deep in 6–8” deep trenches • Hill plants at 20–30 days from emergence • Dig when size of 6–10 tubers reaches 2–8 ounces, usually 60–75 days post planting • Dig when soil is dry; box and let sit 1–2 days, then wash and pack • Note that some nicked skins are inevitable with new potatoes. It identifies them as truly new and freshly dug. “NEW” POTATOES AND “CREAMERS” Both new potatoes and creamers offer good niche marketing possibilities, including CSA projects, farmers’ markets, roadside stands, and restaurants. 10 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems potatoes FIGURE 10. Shaker cage deposits harvested potatoes on the soil surface. Photo: Martha Brown FIGURE 9. Example of a PTO-driven harvester with “shaker cage.” Photo: Martha Brown Post-harvest handling Tubers going direct to market are usually washed immediately after harvest, especially if the soil is prone to sticking. Tubers harvested for storage should not be washed, as water can spread disease (especially fungal spores that cause late blight), and increase potential for higher incidence of infection while in storage. Crop rotation Because potatoes are host to many of the same diseases commonly found on other Solanaceae family crops (tomatoes, peppers, etc.), as well as strawberries, rotate ground out of solanums and strawberries for a minimum of 4 years. Late blight (Phytophthora infestans) is the primary disease of potatoes in the Central Coast region. Because the fungal spores that cause late blight move easily with water and wind, it is best to keep a significant buffer between blocks of potatoes and tomatoes since the blight will most often start on the foliage of potatoes (early season) and spread to tomatoes. Organic Potato Production on California’s Central Coast | 11 potatoes Organic Potato Production on the California’s Central Coast: A Guide for Beginning Specialty Crop Growers by Jim Leap, Darryl Wong, Orin Martin, and Kirstin Yogg-Comerchero, with contributions from Ann Baier and Doug O’Brien. Edited by and Martha Brown and Ann Baier. © 2017 Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems (CASFS), University of California, Santa Cruz. This information was developed for beginning specialty crop growers and is based on practices used at the UCSC Farm. CASFS is a research, education, and public service program at the University of California, Santa Cruz. Learn more at casfs.ucsc.edu, or contact casfs@ucsc.edu, (831) 459-3240. Additional Grower Guides and related information are available online at casfs.ucsc.edu/about/ publications. This publication was supported by the Specialty Crop Block Grant Program at the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) through Grant 14-SCBGP-CA-0006. Its contents are solely the responsibility of the authors and do not necessarily represent the official views of the USDA. Photos, p. 1: Left, Martha Brown; top right, Elizaeth Birnbaum, bottom right, CASFS; p. 2: Elizabeth Birnbaum. Icon illustrations, p. 3, Laura Vollset. ADDITIONAL RESOURCES 1156 High Street Santa Cruz, CA 95064 casfs@ucsc.edu casfs.ucsc.edu publications-and-presentations-ospudproject Pest management strategic plan for organic potato production in the west. Summary of workshops held on February 16, 2006, Buhl, Idaho and January 9, 2008, Portland, Oregon. Jennifer Miller, Ronda Hirnyck, Lisa Downey-Blecker. Issue Date, December 19, 2008. www.ipmcenters.org/pmsp/pdf/CA-CO-IDOR-WAOrganicPotatoPMSP.pdf Potatoes: Organic production and marketing, by Rex Dufour, Tammy Hinman, and Jeff Schahczenski. NCAT IP337, 2009. attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/summaries/ summary.php?pub=96 Selecting, cutting and handling potato seed, Bulletin #2412, 2015, by Steven B. Johnson, Ph.D., Extension crops specialist, University of Maine Cooperative Extension extension.umaine.edu/ publications/2412e/ Introduction to weed management in a small scale organic production system (video). Produced by the Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems. www.youtube.com/user/casfsvideo Knock weeds out at critical times, by Mark Schonbeck. eOrganic, 2010. articles.extension.org/pages/18882/ knock-weeds-out-at-critical-times Ospud participatory organic potato project, Oregon State University. horticulture.oregonstate.edu/content/ Pests and Diseases Before you select varieties and plant your potato crop, look up common pests and diseases that affect the crop in your area. Learn about pest and disease life cycles, preventive practices, and possible treatments using resources such as the UC IPM website (ucipm.edu), your county Cooperative Extension offices, ATTRA’s Biorationals: Ecological Pest Management Database (www.ncat.org/attra-pub/biorationals), neighboring farmers, and other knowledgeable professionals. The main potato arthropod pests in the Central Coast region are: • Tuber moth. Phthorimaea operculella: larvae cause economic damage when they tunnel into potato tubers, both in the field and in storage. • Aphids and viruses—Green peach aphid, Myzus persicae and Potato aphid, Macrosiphum euphorbiae: aphids act as vectors that transmit Potato Leaf Roll Virus (PLRV), cucumber mosaic and alfalfa mosaic (calico) viruses. • Cucumber beetle: Western spotted cucumber beetle, Diabrotica undecimpunctata undecimpunctata, and Western striped cucumber beetle, Acalymma trivittatum: damage foliage. • Tuber Flea Beetles, Epitrix tuberis: beetle larvae feed on tubers. • Wireworms. Common local species of wireworms include: Pacific coast wireworm, Limonius canus. Sugarbeet wireworm, Limonius californicus. Dryland wireworm, Ctenicera pruinina: wireworms are click beetle larvae that live in the soil. They cause economic damage by eating potato seed pieces or roots of young plants, or burrowing into developing tubers. The main potato diseases in the Central Coast region are: • Late Blight, Phytophthora infestans: late blight develops rapidly, and can defoliate a crop within a few weeks. • Verticillium Wilt, Verticillium dahliae: this wilt appears as yellowing (chlorosis) and death (necrosis) of lower leaves; it interferes with the plant water transport (vascular) system, so the impact becomes visible quickly in hot weather. • Scab, Streptomyces spp.: causes potato tubers to be unmarketable. See Organic Pest and Disease Management in Selected Crops on California’s Central Coast in this Grower Guide series for additional information on the pests and diseases listed here, and suggestions for their control in potatoes. 12 | Center for Agroecology & Sustainable Food Systems potatoes APPENDIX: PRODUCTION SCHEDULE, ECONOMIC DATA $42,625.00 -$3,470.48 -$3,595.19 $35,559.33 Per Acre Totals Income: Labor + Machine Cost ($): Expenses: Production Profit: Item Cost per unit Cost per acre Notes Seed - Non-Fingerling $.45/# $816.75 .125#/row'; 1 row/bed; 14520 row'/ac; 1815#/ac; Seed - Fingerling $1.30/# $2,359.50 .125#/row'; 1 row/bed; 14520 row'/ac; 1815#/ac; Drip Tape $120/7500' $232.32 1 row/bed; 14520 row'/ac; $.016/row' Bags $.19043/bag $186.62 25#/bag; 24500#/ac Total Expenses (per acre): $3,595.19 Input Costs POTATO BLOCK Crop day Sub Crop/Variety # beds (1 bed = .02ac) Action work rate (hr/ac) fixed rate (hrs) Total labor cost @ $16.10/hr Total machine cost @ $21.70/hr Unit Price ($/#) Harvest Value ($) -25 20 Flail Mow:heavy 2.5 0.2 $26.04 -25 20 Spade 4.8 0.2 $46.00 -21 20 Begin Chitting 0.5 $8.05 -11 20 Mark Lines 2 0.2 $21.70 -11 20 List 1.25 0.2 $15.19 -11 20 Overhead Irr:set up 3.75 $24.15 -10 20 Overhead Irr:run 0.5 $8.05 -3 20 Cut Potatoes 24.2 $155.85 -3 20 Overhead Irr:break down 3.75 $24.15 -1 20 Light cultivation 1.25 0.2 $15.19 0 20 Plant:driver 4.84 0.4 $50.69 0 20 Plant:planters 9.68 $62.34 11 20 Cultivate 2 0.2 $21.70 11 20 Drip:set up 10 0.25 $68.43 30 20 Hill 1.25 0.2 30 20 Drip:run x 2/wk; @ 9 wks 2.7 $43.47 40 20 Hill 1.25 0.2 60 20 Hand Weed:spot weed 2 $12.88 80 Yukon Gold, Red Gold 10 Flail Mow:light 1.25 0.2 $9.77 94 Desiree, Austrian Crescent 10 Flail Mow:light - 115 20 Overhead Irr:set up 3.75 116 20 Overhead Irr:run 0.5 100 Red Gold 5 Harvest 83 1 $149.73 $39.06 $2.0 $3,600 120 Yukon Gold 5 Harvest 83 1 $149.73 $39.06 $1.5 $4,350 120 Desiree 5 Harvest 83 1 $149.73 $39.06 $1.5 $3,300 140 Austrian Crescent 5 Harvest 83 1 $149.73 $39.06 $2.0 $5,800 160 20 Drip:break down 2 $12.88 180 10 Disc:x1 0.5 0.2 $6.51 - 10 Drill/Cover Crop 1.6 0.2 $11.28 Sub-total: $1,019.16 $380.31 $1,399.48 Per Block (.4 Acres): 9,800 $3,470.48 Per Acre: 24,500 Harvest Amt. (#) Per Acre: Labor + Machine Cost ($) Per Block (.4 Acres): 1,800 2,900 2,200 2,900 $17,050 $42,625 Yield Harvest (#/acre) Red Gold 18,000 Yukon Gold 29,000 Desire 22,000 Austrian Crescent 29,000 Harvest (row'/hr) 180 Harvest Rate (hr/ac) 80 Price ($/#) 1.5-2 Harvest Assumptions Complete irrigation schedule available online at casfs.ucsc.edu/about/publications/growerguides. Data reflect direct field production costs and do not include other potential overhead (e.g., water, electricity, land rent).", "MOALF/ SHEP PLUS Smallholder Horticulture Empowerment & Promotion Project for Local and Up-Scaling (SHEP PLUS) Prepared by SHEP PLUS “Changing Farmers’ Mindset from “Grow and Sell” to ”Grow to Sell”” Japan International Cooperation Agency Agriculture and Food Authority Horticultural Crops Directorate Presented to the County & AFA (HCD) Staff in charge of the SHEP PLUS Model Farmer Groups during the FT-FaDDE TOMATO PRODUCTION Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Fisheries State Department for Crop Development & Agricultural Research MOALF/ SHEP PLUS Tomato (Nyanya) 1-1 • Tomato is a member of the Solanaceae family which includes crops such as Potato, Sweet Pepper, Chili and Egg Plant • One of the most produced and consumed vegetables in Kenya • Important cash crop for smallholder farmers • Mainly grown in open field but green house production has also grown in popularity • Rich in Vitamin A, C and Lycopene • Eaten fresh, added to salads, cooked as a vegetable or processed into tomato paste, jam, sauce, puree and juice 1. Introduction: 1.1 Background 2 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.2 Common Varieties 1-2 Determinate Varieties “Rio Grande”: • Fresh market and processing variety • Plant is slightly bushy and can be staked or left unstaked • Tolerant to verticillium and fusarium wilt • Maturity Period: 75 – 85 days after transplanting • Yield: 18,000kg per acre “Rio Grande” 3 Photo: Flora fields http://www.florafields.com/index.php?route=product/product &product_id=189 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.2 Common Varieties 1-3 “Cal J” • Open pollinated determinate variety • Tolerant to verticilium & fusarium wilts • The plant produces red blocky shaped fruits • The fruits store and transport well • Maturity Period: 75 - 85 days after transplanting “Cal J” • Yield: 11,000 – 13,000kg per acre 4 Photo: Farm Fresh Seeds http://www.farmfreshseeds.com/heirloom-tomato-seeds-cal-j.html MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.2 Common Varieties Cont’ 1-4 “Kilele F1” • Medium-early maturing, determinate type • Suitable for drier or humid areas • Disease tolerance: Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus, Tomato Mosaic Virus, Verticillium, Fusarium Wilt & Nematodes • Fruits: Firm and elongated and has shelf life of 21 days • Maturity Period: 75 days after transplanting • Yield: 30,000 – 35,000kg per acre “Kilele F1” 5 Photo: Syngenta kENYA https://www.syngenta.co.ke/tomatoes MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.2 Common Varieties Cont’ 1-5 “Assila F1” • Determinate early maturing (75 days) variety • Tolerant to Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) & nematodes • It produces fruits with attractive red colour with oval shape & heavy sweet fruits • Yield: 23,000kg per acre • Good keeping quality & transportability “Assila F1” 6 Photo: seminis https://seminis.co.za/product/assila/686 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.2 Common Varieties Cont’ 1-6 “Eden F1” • Determinate and vigorous growing variety • Good tolerance to Alternaria Canker, Verticillium Wilt, Fusarium Wilt, Nematodes and Bacterial Speck • Deep red blocky fruits have long shelf life • Maturity Period: 75 days after transplanting • Yield: 40,000-50,000kg per acre (9 – 10 kg per plant) “Rambo F1” • Determinate, vigorous plant with uniformly set and firm fruits • Tolerance: Bacterial wilt, Bacterial spot, Fusarium wilt, Verticilium wilt and Nematodes • Maturity 75 days after transplanting • Yield: 30,000kg per acre •Goodshelflife&transportquality“Eden F1” 7 Photo: seminis https://seminis.co.za/product/eden/687 Photo: Kenya Highlands Seed Co. https://royalseed.biz/tomatoes “Eden F1” “Rambo F1” 1-7 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.2 Common Varieties Cont’ 1-8 Indeterminate Varieties “Anna F1”: • Hybrid and indeterminate fresh market variety that produces blocky oval red fruits that have a long shelf life, tolerance to Fusarium, Verticillium Wilt, Alternaria Stem Canker and Nematodes • Ideal greenhouse Tomato • Maturity Period: 75 days after transplanting • Yield: 64,000kg per acre (18 kg per plant for 8 months) “Anna F1” 8 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.2 Common Varieties Cont’ 1-9 Indeterminate Varieties “Tylka F1” • Maturity Period: 75 days • Plant: Intermediate, very vigorous, good cover and high yielding • Fruit: Very firm elongated, non-green back, smooth and firm oval fruits with an average frit weight of 120-130g • Production/ Yield: 70,000-78,000kg per acre under good agricultural practices • Shelf life: Over 21 days • Disease tolerance: Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV), Tomato Mosaic Virus (ToMV 0-2), Verticillium & Fusarium Wilt (race 1&2) “Tylka F1” 9 Photo: https://www.syngenta.co.ke/product/se ed/tomato/tylka-f1 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.2 Common Varieties Cont’ 1-10 Indeterminate Varieties “Corazon F1” • Extended shelf life • Good resistant to cracking • Suitable for green house/ net house production • High yielding, staking growing system • Oval shape, weight:130-190g • Resistant to: Verticillium Wilt, Fusarium (race 1,2), Bacterial speck, Tobacco mosaic virus (ToMV), Nematode, Tomato spotted wilt virus, Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) “Corazon F1” 10 Photo: Amiran THE COMPLETE FARMERS CATALOGUE MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.3 Choice of Varieties 1-11 Selection of variety need to be based on: • Growth Habit: determinate (bush), indeterminate (climbing) and semideterminate • Disease Tolerance/ Resistance: indicated by initials after variety name e.g. “F” for fusarium wilt, “N” for nematodes • Fruit Type (shape, size & color): Market requirement will determine fruit type. – Processing-intense red color & more solids – Fresh market- shape, color & size vary • Hybrid or Open Pollinated Varieties (OPV): Hybrid seeds give higher yields but are more expensive Tomato crop in the field 11 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 1.4 Optimal Ecological Requirements Altitude 0 – 2,000 Meters Above Sea Level Rainfall Over 600 mm of rainfall annually Growing Temperature 20 – 25 0C (day) 15 – 17 0C (night) Soils •Well drained sandy, loam, and clay loam soils •pH range 6.0 – 7.5 12 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 13 2. G20 technologies  Make sure to support farmers carry out G20 techniques for any crop 1. Market survey 2. Crop planting calendar 3. Soil testing 4. Composting 5. Use of quality planting materials 6. Recommended land preparation practices 7. Incorporating crop residues 8. Basal application of compost/ manure 9. Recommended practices of seedling preparation/ seedlings from registered nursery MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 14 2. G20 technologies 10.Recommended spacing 11.Recommended fertilizer application rate 12.Supplementing water 13.Timely weeding 14.Top-dressing 15.IPM practices 16.Safe and effective use of pesticides 17.Use of harvesting indices 18.Appropriate post harvest handling containers 19.Value addition techniques 20.Keeping farm records MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.1 Raising Seedlings Tomato nursery 3-4 50 cm 1 m 1 m 10 – 20 cm 15 Photos: SHEP PLUS 3-5 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.1 Raising Seedlings (GHCP&PHHT20: Q9) • Tomato can be established through nursery or directly seeded • Normally, it is raised in nursery before transplanting • The seed rate is about 40 – 75 g/acre • Seed trays can also be used to raise seedlings Nursery Site Selection: • The nursery should be sited in a plot that has not been planted with a member of Solanaceae family for the last 3 years • Choose the site with good drainage Nursery Establishment: • Prepare a seedbed of 1 m width and of a convenient length • Make drills on the seedbed at a spacing of 10 – 20 cm apart • Thinly sow the seeds in the drills and cover lightly with soil 16 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.1 Raising Seedlings Cont’ Management of Nursery: • Water the nursery regularly • Harden the seedlings 1 – 2 weeks before transplanting by reducing the frequency of watering and gradually exposing the seedlings to direct sunlight • Insects such as whiteflies can transmit viruses to young tomato plants hence should be controlled using pesticides e.g. Amitraz (Mitac 20EC®), Buprofezin (Applaud 40%SC®), Azadirachtin (Nimbecidine®), Imidacloprid (Confidor 70 WG®) • The insects can also be blocked from reaching the seedlings by use of an insect proof net (agricultural type) 17 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.2 Transplanting Recently transplanted Tomato seedlings 3-5 18 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.2 Transplanting 3.2.1 Appropriate Time • Seedlings are transplanted 30 – 45 days after seed sowing • It is recommended that transplanting should be done either early in the morning or late in the evening 3.2.2 Recommended Spacing (GHCP&PHHT20: Q10) • Spacing: range from 75 – 100 cm (between rows) by 40 – 60 cm (between seedlings) depending on the variety • Plant Population per Acre: range from 6,666 to 13,333 • Appropriate spacing produces short, stocky plants with good root system and reduces disease incidences 19 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.2 Transplanting Cont’ 3.2.3 Fertilizer Application Rates (GHCP&PHHT20: Q11) • Make holes and add 2 – 3 handfuls of manure per planting hole (8 tons/acre) • The type and quantity of fertilizers will depend on soil analysis results. [General recommendations] • Apply 2 bottle tops (10 g) of Triple Super Phosphate (TSP) per planting hole (80 kg/acre) • Apply Muriate of Potash (MOP) to enhance availability of potassium 20 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.3 Water Requirement (GHCP&PHHT20: Q12) • Tomato is sensitive to water deficit: – Immediately after transplanting – During flowering and fruit development • Plants should be provided with adequate water • Tomato plants are sensitive to water logging and flooded fields should be drained within 1 – 3 days Irrigation Methods: • Furrow and drip irrigation are the most effective methods • Furrow irrigation minimizes spread of fungal diseases, such as “Early Blight” • Drip irrigation on the other hand is efficient on water utilization • Overhead irrigation encourages spread of diseases such as “Early Blight” 3-6 Drip Irrigation in a Tomato field 21 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.4 Top-dressing (GHCP&PHHT20: Q14) • Tomato crop should be fertilized with organic and inorganic fertilizers to produce high yields • Top-dressing fertilizer such as CAN should be applied in 2 splits at 40 kg & 80 kg/acre at 4 and 8 weeks after transplanting which is a general recommendation • Soil analysis results provides specific information for each farm • Application method: circular band around the stem • Inadequate top-dressing can result in physiological disorders such as: – Hollow cavities and poor taste in fruits due to potassium deficiency – Blossom-end rot due to an imbalance between nitrogen, calcium and soil moisture 22 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS • Indeterminate varieties need staking/training to facilitate pruning, harvesting and other cultural practices • Determinate varieties don't require staking but may be staked in wet season to prevent fruit contact with the soil. On the other hand, mulch may be used instead of staking • Staking materials: wooden stakes, bamboo or any sturdy material • Strings, plastic strips or other material can be used to train the plant to the stake 3.5 Crop Management 3.5.1 Staking & Training 3-9 Well staked Tomato field 23 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS • This practice is necessary for the indeterminate varieties • It involves removal of side shoots, extra flowers, fruits and diseased leaves • Leads to early maturity of fruits and encourages fruits to increase in size and uniformity • Sterilize pruning blades by use of chlorine bleach and water at a ratio of 1:1. Use of unsterilized blades and smoking can lead to spread of diseases e.g. TMV, Bacterial Wilt 3.5.2 Pruning 3-10 Training of tomato plants in the field. A side shoot has been pinched 24 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.5.3 Major Pests The following are the major pests of Tomato in Kenya: A.African Bollworm B.Red Spider Mites C.Tobacco Whitefly D.Root-knot Nematode E. Thrips F. Tuta absoluta 25 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.5.3.A: African Bollworm 3-12 A fruit damaged by “African Bollworm” 26 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.5.3.A: African Bollworm Identification: • Adult moth is dull yellow to brown • The female moth lays tiny round & brownish eggs near or on flowers or small fruits • Larvae have alternating light and dark colored stripes on either side of the body • The pupa is shiny brown Damage: • Caterpillars feed on flowers and green fruits causing flower abortion and sunken necrotic spots, respectively • Feeding holes made by the caterpillar serve as entry point for bacteria and fungi which may lead to rotting of fruits 27 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.5.3.A: African Bollworm Control: • Tilling & ploughing of old tomato field exposes pupa to desiccation and natural enemies • Planting of trap crops (e.g. Cucumber, Maize and African Marigold) which attract the pest before it attacks tomatoes (Need to synchronize planting of both maize and tomatoes so that they flower at same time) • Use of selective pesticides or microbial control agents like: – Helicoverpa armigera SNPV virus (HelitecSC®) – Indoxacarb (Avaunt 150EC®) – Etofenprox 30%(TREBON 30 EC®) 28 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.B: Red Spider Mites 3-13 Underside of Tomato leaf infested with “Red Spider Mites” 29 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.B: Red Spider Mites Identification: • Adult red spider mites are oval in shape and appear reddish and have eight (8) legs • Eggs are very tiny, spherical and whitish; and are laid singly on underside of leaves • Red spider mites spin silk threads/ web which protect/ anchor the pest and their eggs to the plant Damage: • Leaves when infected show white to yellow speckling, later turn pale or bronzed • High population causes serious drying and dropping of leaves (defoliation) which leads to smaller and lighter fruits 30 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.B: Red Spider Mites Control (Scouting & GAP): • Use of pesticides (miticides) such as: – Spiromesifen (Oberon SC 240®) – Hexythiazox (Arsur 100 EC®) – Abamectin (Avirmec 1.8EC®, Almectin 1.8%EC®, Agrimec 18EC®) – Amitraz (Mitac 20EC®) – Amblyseius californicus (Amblytech®-predatory mite) • Spider mites rapidly develop resistance to pesticides, especially when they are used continuously for several seasons • To avoid development of resistance, farmers need to: – Use miticides with different chemical composition/modes of action – Avoid routine spraying – Use the recommended dosage 31 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.C: Tobacco Whitefly “Whiteflies” on a leaf 3-14 32 Photo: Clemson University - USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US) MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.C: Tobacco Whitefly Identification: • Adult whitefly resembles small white moth – like insect which cluster on the underside of upper leaves from which they suck sap • Eggs are laid in arc or circle on the underside of young leaves • When eggs hatch they produce greenish white nymphs which resemble scales Damage: • Suck plant sap and remove nutrients which cause yellowing of infested leaves • The larvae secrete honey dew which supports growth of black sooty mould • Transmit viral diseases, especially Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) 33 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.C: Tobacco Whitefly Control: • Keep tomato fields weed free • Use of yellow sticky traps to monitor their population levels • Covering tomato seedling nurseries with nylon nets or insect proof nets to protect seedlings from whitefly infestations • Use of insecticides in the morning & ring spray – Amitraz (Mitac 20EC®) – Buprofezin (Applaud 40%SC®) – Azadirachtin (Nimbecidine®) – Imidacloprid (Confidor 70 WG®) – Lambda Cyhalothrin (Karate 2.5WG®) – Lambda- cyhalothrin + Thiamethoxam (LEXUS 247 SC®) 34 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.D: Root-knot Nematode 3-15 Root galls: characteristic of “Root-knot Nematode” infestation 35 Photo: David L. Clement, University of Maryland, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US) MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.D: Root-knot Nematode Description: • Nematodes are soil inhabitants easily spread by infested seedlings, soil washed down the slopes or by farm implements • Root–knot nematodes are most serious on light sandy soils under furrow irrigation Damages: • Plants are stunted, yellow and tend to wilt without yellowing in hot weather • The roots of affected plants are severely distorted, swollen and bear galls or knots • Heavy infestation results in severe loss in yield 36 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.D: Root-knot Nematode Control: • Burn the top soil using waste plant material after seedbed preparation • Solarize seedbeds if possible by covering soil with clear polythene sheet for 2 – 3 months • Manuring of soil to reduce nematode population • Fields should be ploughed deep and harrowed followed by dry fallow • Use trap/ repellent crops such as Marigold • Use of nematicides such as – Azadirachtin (Nimbecidine®, Achook EC®) – Paecilomyces lilacinus (Bio-nematon 1.15% WP®, Mytech WP®) – Metham sodium (Metham sodium®) – Abamectin (Adventure 5G®) – Ethoprophos (MOCAP GR 10®) 37 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.E: Thrips 3-16a Thrips damage on Tomato Photo: © A. M. Varela, icipe (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0) http://www.infonet-biovision.org/PlantHealth/Crops/Tomato#simple-table-of-contents-4 38 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.E: Thrips Identification: • Adult thrips are small (0.5 – 2.0 mm), slender and winged • Wings are long, narrow and fringed with long hairs • Nymphs are white or yellow • Both adults and nymphs feed on lower leaf surface, buds, flowers and fruits • It transmits the Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus/ Tospovirus (“Kijeshi”) 39 “Kijeshi” symptoms Photo: SHEP PLUS 3-16b MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.E: Thrips Damages: • Attack on leaves causes speckling & small necrotic patches • Heavy infection causes premature wilting, delay in leaf development & distortion of young shoots • Attack on buds and flowers leads to abortion Control: • Ploughing and harrowing before transplanting to kill pupae in the soil • Use of insecticides such as – Lambda-Cyhalothrin (Karate 2.5 WG®) – Abamectin + Acetamiprid (Amazing Top 100WDG®) 40 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3-17a Tuta absoluta adult (left) and larva (right) Photo: By Marja van der Straten, NVWA Plant Protection Service, Bugwood.org - http://www.ipmimages.org/browse/detail.cfm?imgnum=5432149, CC BY 3.0 us, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=22440495 3.10.3.F: Tuta absoluta 41 3-17b MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 42 Photo: By N3v3rl4nd - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6598872 By Goldlocki - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=228832 3.10.3.F: Tuta absoluta Tomato Leafminer (left) Tuta Absoluta (right) 3-17c 3-17d MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.F: Tuta absoluta Identification: • The moth is gray-brown, same size and posture as diamond back moth (DBM) and has long antenna & lays up to 260 eggs • Newly hatched caterpillars are small (0.5 mm) and yellowish • Mature caterpillars (9 mm: fully grown) are yellow-green, have pinkish color on the back and a black band behind the head • Pupae is light brown and size is 6 mm • The larva (caterpillar) is the damaging stage • Distribution is through seedlings, containers, fruits, soil & Green houses Damages: • The caterpillar burrows (mines) in the middle of the leaf tissue • Unlike other leafminers, it feeds indiscriminately and from a distance, it seems like the leaves are “burning” • Most distinctive symptoms are the blotch-shaped mines in the leaves • It bores n fruits, leaving symptomatic tiny holes • It also burrows on stems causing breakages • A serious pest and can cause 100% loss if not controlled in time 43 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.3.F: Tuta absoluta Control: • Early control is important before the pest pressure builds up • Carry out cultural practices like field hygiene, crop rotation • Carry out regular scouting/monitoring of pest population • Use of pheromone traps to attract male insects for both monitoring/surveillance and pest control e.g. mating disruption, mass trapping ‘lure & kill’ method, such as Tutrak, Tutalure (1m above the ground, 4-6 traps/ acre) • Use of insecticides like - Chlorantraniliprole (Coragen®) - Indoxacarb (Avaunt 150EC®, Merit 150SC®) - Spirotetramat + Flubendiamide (Tihan OD®) - Thiocyclam 50% w/w; Thiocyclam-hydrogenoxalate (Evisect S®) - Imidacloprid (Grizly 175/30 SC®) - Flubendiamide (Belt 480SC®) Note: The above pest control tactics should be combined in an IPM strategy 44 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4 Major Diseases & Physiological Disorders • The following are the major diseases and physiological disorders of Tomato in Kenya: a. Damping-off b. Late Blight c. Early Blight d. Bacterial Wilt e. Tomato Mosaic f. Blossom-end Rot g. Fusarium Wilt 45 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.a: Damping-off 3-18 General Description: • This disease is soil borne Symptoms: • Decay of germinating seed • Girdling of stem of young seedling at ground level Control: • Use of certified seed • Avoid locating the seedbed on infected fields • Avoid excessive fertilizer application and watering to young seedlings while still at nursery bed • Apply chemicals such as: – Metalaxyl + Mancozeb (Amidil 68WG® “Damping-off” symptoms on seedlings 46 Photo: Infonet Biovision (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0) http://www.infonet-biovision.org/PlantHealth/Pests/Damping-diseases MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.b: Late Blight “Late Blight” on foliage and fruits 3-19 3-20 Photo: Gerald Holmes, California Polytechnic State University at San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US) Photo: Edward Sikora, Auburn University, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US) 47 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.b: Late Blight General Descriptions: • This is a fungal disease which affects foliage and fruits • The development of the disease is favoured by cool and wet conditions Symptoms: • Irregular greenish-black water soaked blotches/patches on leaves • The spots on the leaves later turn brown and the attacked leaves wither but remain attached to the stem giving a frost-damaged appearance • Water soaked brown streaks on stem • Grey water soaked spots on fruits – upper half of the fruit with foul smell Control: • Crop rotation • Removal of all volunteer crops that are more susceptible to this disease • Pruning and staking in order to improve air circulation and reduce humidity • Use of fungicides, such as: – Metalaxyl + Mancozeb (Ridomil Gold MZ68®) – Propineb + Cymoxanil (Milraz WP76®) – Mancozeb (Dithane M45®) – Dimethomorph + Mancozeb (Acrobat MZ®) 48 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.c: Early Blight “Early Blight” on Foliage 3-21 Photo: SHEP PLUS 49 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.c: Early Blight General Descriptions: •This is a fungal disease which affects foliage and fruits •The fungus is seed borne •It is well adapted to semi-arid areas; warm wet weather •The disease is favoured by warm rainy weather Symptoms: •Premature loss of lower leaves is the main symptom •On leaves, brown circular spots with dark concentric rings •Leaves turn yellow and dry when only a few spots appear •On fruits, large sunken areas with dark concentric rings appearing velvety 50 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.c: Early Blight Control: •Use of certified seeds •Appropriate spacing •Avoid overhead irrigation, water in the morning and keep plants healthy/ stress-free •Use of fungicides, such as – Chlorothalonil (Odeon® 82.5WDG) – Manconzeb (Oshothane®) – Propineb (Antracol WP70®) – Mancozeb + Cymoxanil (Agromax®) – Propineb + Iprovalicarb (Melody Duo®) 51 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.d: Bacterial Wilt Symptom of “Bacterial Wilt” infection 3-23 Photo: Don Ferrin, Louisiana State University Agricultural Center, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US) 52 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.d: Bacterial Wilt General Descriptions: • This is a bacterial disease which is soil-borne • It is easily spread by run off water and infected soil Symptoms: • Rapid wilting and death of entire plant without yellowing or spotting of leaves • When the stem of a wilted plant is cut across, the pith has a darkened water – soaked appearance • When stem of wilted plant is squeezed, a greyish slimy ooze is produced • To distinguish this wilt from others, when a thin slice is taken from the brown stem tissue and placed inside a glass of water, a milky ooze is produced from the cut surface 53 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.d: Bacterial Wilt Control: • Practice crop rotation with crops such as cereals • Remove wilted plants, with the soil around roots, from the field and destroy • Solarize planting beds • Spot treatment with Sodium Hypochlorite at 10 % dilution (Jik) or with lime/ ash • Sterilize pruning tools • Use of Metam sodium (METHAM SODIUM 51 Liquid soluble®), Bronopol (ENRICH BM Wettable Powder®) 54 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.e: Tomato Mosaic Virus Symptoms of “Tomato Mosaic Virus” infection on foliage and fruit 3-24 3-25 Photo: University of Georgia Plant Pathology , University of Georgia, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US) 55 Photo: © A. A. Seif and A. M. Varela, icipe http://www.infonetbiovision.org/PlantHealth/Crops/Tomato#simpl e-table-of-contents-4 (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0) MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.e: Tomato Mosaic Virus General Descriptions: • This is a viral disease which is easily transmitted by infected seed and plant debris in the soil • Mechanically transmitted through transplanting seedlings and pruning tools Symptoms: • Mottling of leaves with raised dark green areas • The shape of young leaves is distorted • Internal browning of fruits, especially when fruits are affected at mature green stage Control: • Use certified disease- free seeds • Remove crop debris and roots from the field • Do not smoke or touch cigarettes as the virus is transmitted from tobacco leaves even if it is processed 56 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.f: Blossom-end Rot 3-26 General Descriptions: • This is a physiological condition caused by calcium-nitrogen imbalance in the soil, especially when moisture level in the soil is low Symptoms: • A rot at the blossom-end of the fruit • The surface becomes dark brown and sunken Control: • Maintain adequate soil moisture, especially at fruit development stages • Soil liming in calcium deficient soils, reduce N and mulch the field • Top-dress with CN, Mavuno Planting and ensure adequate soil moisture • Spray the crop with calcium chloride • Foliar application of EASY-GRO CALCIUM® Tomato fruits affected by “Blossom-end Rot” 57 Photo: M.E. Bartolo, Bugwood.org (CC BY 3.0 US) MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.g: Fusarium Wilt Symptoms of Fusarium Wilt 3-27 Photo: © Scot Nelson (Public Domain) 58 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.g: Fusarium Wilt General Descriptions: • The fungus is both seed- and soil-borne. • It causes most damage on light, sandy soils. • It is most active at temperatures between 25 and 32o C. • The fungus can survive in the soil indefinitely even when no tomatoes are grown. • It can also survive in fibrous roots of weeds (e.g. Amaranthus, Digitaria and Malva species). • Acidic soils (pH 5.0 to 5.6) and excessive nitrogen fertilisation promote disease development. Symptoms: • The lower leaves of the plant usually turn yellow and die. • Leaflets on one side may be affected while those on the other side are asymptomatic. • Diseased leaves readily break away from the stem. When affected stems just above ground level and petioles are cut diagonally, a reddish-brown discolouration of the water conducting tissues will be observed. 59 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 3.10.4.g: Fusarium Wilt Control: • Use resistant tomato varieties (e.g. ""Fortune Maker"", ""Rio Grande"", ""Tengeru 97"", ""Roma VFN“, Eden F1, Rambo F1, Anna F1). • Use certified disease-free seeds. • Do not locate seedbeds on land where Fusarium wilt is known to have occurred. • Where soil is acidic, raise the pH by applying lime or farmyard manure. • Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilisation and control root-knot nematodes. 60 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 4. Harvest Harvesting of Tomatoes 4-1 61 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 4. Harvest 4.1 Harvesting Indices (GHCP&PHHT20: Q17) • Maturity period range between 3 – 4 months after transplanting depending on: – The variety – Environmental conditions • Tomato can be harvested at different stages depending on the market requirement and distance to the market • There are four (4) main harvesting stages: – Mature-Green Stage: where the fruit is green but internal gel is well developed – Breaker/Turning Stage: up to 30% of fruit surface has definite color break from green to yellow – Pink/Light Red Stage: 30 – 90% fruit surface has pink/red color – Red/Ripe Stage: over 90% fruit surface has changed to red color 62 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 4. Harvest • Fruits should be harvested early in the morning when it is cool since the fruit temperature is low • Harvested fruits should be kept in a cool, shaded and ventilated area in order to minimize heat gain • When necessary, wipe fruits to remove dirt • The yields vary from 12,000 – 40,000kg per acre depending on the variety and crop husbandry 63 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 5. Post-Harvest Handling 5-1 Graded tomatoes packed in crates 64 Photo: SHEP PLUS MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 5.1 Containers & Packaging Materials (GHCP&PHHT20: Q18) • Pack tomatoes in clean well ventilated containers to transport. Normally packed in wooden and plastic crates 5.2 Value Addition Techniques: Cleaning, Sorting, Grading, & Processing (GHCP&PHHT20: Q19) Sorting: • Sorting is done to remove damaged or diseased fruits. Grading: • Tomatoes are graded depending on the uniformity of ripening and fruit size • There are three (3) main tomato grades: – Grade 1: big size fruits of uniform color and shape – Grade 2: medium size fruits of uniform color and shape – Grade 3: small size fruits with slight variation in color and shape 5. Post-Harvest Handling 65 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS 5.2 Value Addition Techniques: Cleaning, Sorting, Grading, & Processing Cont’ (GHCP&PHHT20: Q19) Processing: • Processing tomatoes into high value products such as jam, sauce, and pickles enables farmers to earn more income 5. Post-Harvest Handling Cont’ 66 Photo: SHEP PLUS 5-2 Tomatoes in crates ready to be transported to the market MOALF/ SHEP PLUS Reference • The proposed agrochemicals are in accordance with “Products Registered for Use on Crops Version 1_2018”. The registered agrochemicals are subject to change. Please refer to the latest registered agrochemicals by Pest Control Product Board. • Infonet Biovision (accessed on 7 Dec 2016) : http://www.infonet-biovision.org/PlantHealth/Pests/African-bollworm http://www.infonet-biovision.org/PlantHealth/Crops/Tomato# • Eden F1 Leaflet (Monsantoafrica) http://www.monsantoafrica.com/_pdfs/tomato_eden_flier_en.pdf • Plantwise Factsheets for Farmers “Fusarium wilt of tomato” https://www.plantwise.org/KnowledgeBank/factsheetforfarmers/20157800181 MOALF/ SHEP PLUS Contact: SHEP PLUS Office (4th Floor, N.H.I.F. Building, Upper Hill, Nairobi) Tel. No: 0737-293867/0712-504095 E-mail: info.shepunit@gmail.com THANK YOU ASANTE SANA DOMO ARIGATO GOZAIMASU SMALLHOLDER HORTICULTURE EMPOWERMENT & PROMOTION PROJECT FOR LOCAL AND UP-SCALING(SHEP PLUS) © 2016 68", , "Tomatoes VEGETABLE CROPS PRODUCTION GUIDE FOR THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES Prepared by the ADVISORY COMMITTEE ON VEGETABLE CROPS Published by authority of the ATLANTIC PROVINCES AGRICULTURE SERVICES CO-ORDINATING COMMITTEE Introduction Tomatoes belong to the Solanaceae (the nightshade family) along with potatoes, peppers and eggplants. Lycopersicon esculentum is a perennial plant in the tropics but in northern climates it is grown as an annual. Botanically this vegetable is a fruit (a berry). Flowers are generally borne in clusters of 4 to 8 but small fruited types may have 30 to 50 flowers per cluster. The flowers are mainly self pollinated by the wind. The fruit has 2 to 18 locules (chambers or sections). The tomato is a native of the Peru, Bolivia, and Ecuador area of the Andes Mountains. Its antiquity is uncertain in regard to cultivation but it was being cultivated when America was discovered by Europeans. It was not until 1835 that the tomato was considered suitable as a food crop in the northeastern United States. Tomatoes respond well to high temperatures. The minimum temperature for seed germination is 10 C with a maximum temperature of 35 C and an optimum range of 17 to 20 C. Most field transplants should not be set out until the danger of frost is past. An optimum growth rate is obtained at 22 C with reductions occurring above 30 C and below 12 C. Fruit setting is inhibited above 30 C and below 16 C. Rough fruit (cat faced) results from growing temperatures below 16 C. Root growth does not occur below 16 C. Tomatoes require adequate, even moisture, particularly at flowering and during fruit set. Tomatoes grow best in well drained soils that are well supplied with organic matter. Sandy soils are suited for early production, loam and clay loam soils are suited for later production. Shelter from wind is important especially for early production. This crop also benefits from the use of plastics such as ground mulches, row covers, and tunnel houses. Tunnel house tomato harvest begins about mid-July and field harvest about August 1st. Production continues as long as economically viable, up to late October. Marketable yields of ripe tomatoes vary dramatically with the weather. This range is 10,000 to 30,000 kg per hectare. Tomatoes for green chow may yield as much as 40,000 kg per hectare. There is a large market for red tomatoes in the Atlantic area within our growing season, especially on the wholesale market. There is still price competition from other areas of North America, and in good growing seasons there are local market ""gluts''. There is also interest in extending our season with the use of tunnel houses for July and August production. There is a limited market for fresh green tomatoes and a limited processing market. ""Sun dried"" tomatoes are being processed on a small scale. The warmest areas of the Atlantic provinces can grow red processing tomatoes. Crop Establishment Seeding/Planting - Since tomatoes require a relatively long growing season, they should be started in a greenhouse or hotbed. Approximately 75 to 150 grams of seed are required to produce enough plants for one hectare. Sow seeds eight weeks before plants are to be set in the field or tunnel. A temperature of 27 C for 1 to 2 weeks is required for good seed emergence. Plants for early crops can be pricked off (when the first true leaves appear) into 5 to 10 cm pots and plants for late production can be pricked off into a module transplant tray, peat block, paper pots or peat pots 4 to 5 weeks before transplanting. Plants should be grown firm and stocky by good light, moderate temperatures and appropriate fertilization. Plants should be developed to the budding stage by the time of transplanting. Tomato plants can also be raised by sowing raw seed directly into peat pots, module trays (72, 128 or 200 cell trays), or peat blocks. Under such a planting system a superior plant can be raised in a shorter time. This system is less labor intensive and reduces transplant shock. Tomato plants should be hardened for about one week before transplanting to the field. This can be accomplished by reducing the soil moisture supply and reducing the air temperature to 13 to 16 C. This will improve the survival ability of the plants to adverse weather conditions when field set. Tomatoes are normally field set at 11,000 to 18,000 plants per hectare depending on the type of tomato and its field spacing: 1.Determinate (small-vined) cultivars - plants 45 to 60 cm apart, rows 1 to 1.5 m apart. 2.Indeterminate (large-vined) cultivars - plants 50 to 90 cm apart, rows 1.5 to 2 m apart. 3.Staked Tomatoes - plants 45 cm apart, rows 1 to 1.5 m apart. Tomatoes for processing will have specific requirements. Nutrient Content: An excellent source of Vitamin C. They are also a source of many minerals including potassium, calcium and folate. One medium raw tomato provides 35 kilocalories. Crop Management Transplanting - set in the field after the danger of frost is past. Set out only relatively young, firm and blossom free plants. Severe hardening reduces yields. To obtain good yields and fruit size, the plants should become established in the field before the first fruits are set. This is important with early determinate cultivars. Use a starter fertilizer solution. Mulching - black plastic mulch can be used for weed control and higher yields of marketable fruit. Clear plastic mulch is the most effective for early growth and yields. However, weeds must be controlled with the use of herbicides. Apply mulches when soil moisture is high and well before planting so the soil can heat up. Hot caps, row covers or tunnels - these are used by growers to foster early growth and production. Ventilation is critical on warm sunny days. Do not allow temperatures around plants to exceed 35 C. Grow cultivars suited to this method of culture. Air blasting is necessary for pollinization of early fruit clusters (flowers must be vibrated). Staking Tomatoes - advantages in staking, or otherwise training tomato plants off the ground include a frequent increase in the percentage of marketable fruit, easier harvesting, and reduced injury to both plants and fruit in harvesting. It is doubtful that staked yields will differ from unstaked plant yields or that fruits on staked plants are firmer. Staking procedures (many systems are possible) that require little pruning seem best because pruning is costly, and removing laterals means removing potential flower clusters, so both early and total yields per plant are often reduced. The practices of staking and pruning most are likely to be profitable when a long harvest season is possible and fairly uniform production over the season is desired. (Only staking greenhouse cultivars should be used in tunnel houses and a limited number of trusses should be allowed to set depending on the intended market and season). Irrigation - the soil moisture should be kept at a reasonable level to reduce the incidence of cracking and blossom end rot from wide fluctuations in soil moisture. A fixed irrigation system may be used for frost control at planting time or late in the fall. Trickle irrigation may be used in the field or in tunnel houses with or without soil mulches. Nutrition ALL ADDITIONS OF LIME AND FERTILIZER OR MANURES SHOULD BE BASED ON RECOMMENDATIONS FROM A SOIL TEST. Manures - Often they are used in tomato production but one has to be careful of excessive nitrogen since delayed maturity and excessive vegetative growth may result. Lime - Lime should be applied to maintain the soil pH in the range 6.5 to 6.8. A high pH will usually ensure a high calcium level which is necessary for this crop. Nitrogen - Nitrogen is best applied at the time of planting and broadcast at an appropriate level, since an excess will delay maturity of ripe tomatoes. Soil organic matter and rotations have to be carefully considered for N contribution. Foliar sprays of calcium nitrate or urea may be used to apply some additional nitrogen. Where plastic mulches are used the nitrogen application should be low since the nitrogen does not leach. Approximately 50 kg per hectare or less of nitrogen may be enough for fresh market vigorous cultivars planted into plastic mulch. Maturity may be delayed two to three weeks or more by an excessive application of nitrogen. Total yields of green plus ripe fruit are usually larger but early ripe yields are drastically reduced. For green chow tomatoes heavier rates of nitrogen should be used. Trickle irrigation can be used for fertilization. For processing tomatoes the nitrogen rate will vary greatly depending on the variety, soil type, crop rotation, organic matter and soil management. Phosphorus - It is most effectively used when banded at the time of transplanting especially when small quantities of fertilizer are being applied. Band at least 50 kg of phosphorus per hectare. Use a transplant solution if possible especially on low phosphorus soils Potash - Broadcast potash requirements before planting and incorporate it into the soil along with the nitrogen. Banded potash can hurt yields at 60 kg per hectare. Magnesium - On sandy soils low in organic matter and in magnesium content, foliar applications of epsom salts should be considered. Calcium - On sandy soils low in calcium apply foliar sprays of calcium nitrate to prevent blossom end rot (adjust nitrogen accordingly). Micronutrients Boron - Tomatoes have a high boron requirement. Apply a boronated fertilizer and apply at least one foliar spray of soluble boron. Application Method - Nitrogen and potash should be broadcast prior to planting and incorporated into the soil. Banded nitrogen and potash can be detrimental to early and total yields. Phosphorus would be best banded and starter solutions should always be used. More fertilizer may be needed on staked cultivars. Pests and Pest Control Weeds Control perennial weeds prior to planting. Many growers use black plastic mulch for weed control, especially when the crop is grown under plastic row tunnels. Most herbicides recommended for use on tomatoes will not provide complete control of annual weeds and supplemental cultivation is usually necessary. Often contact herbicides are used to burn weeds from between the rows of plastic mulch. (Use shields to prevent drift onto the crop). Diseases Damping Off (fungi) Characteristics: Seed may decay, fail to emerge or once emerged develop water soaked discolored areas on the stem which withers and causes the plant to fall over. Disease incidence and severity is increased by cold temperatures, over watering, high humidity and over crowding. Control: Hot water treat seed and apply a fungicide seed protectant. Plant seeds at the recommended rate into sterilized seeding mix and flats. Supply adequate moisture but do not overwater and maintain night temperatures above 16 C. Drench immediately after seeding with a fungicide and if damping off occurs continue to apply fungicides at weekly intervals. Sclerotinia (white mold) Characteristics: This disease affects the stems of tomato plants especially those being grown on the ground. Fields selected for production should be as free as possible from this disease as it can survive from many years in the soil by means of a hard Sclerotia (resting fungal nuggets). Control: Rotate with corn or other grass species. Do not rotate with other vegetable crops, soybeans, field beans or canola. Do not allow weeds to grow out of control. When using over head irrigation do not over apply. Plastic mulches on the ground will help in combination with trickle irrigation to prevent disease development. Septoria Leaf Spot (fungus) Characteristics: Causes numerous small grayish circular leaf spots with dark borders. Survives in crop residue and on seed. Wet weather favours disease development. Control: Hot water treat seed. Apply protective fungicide sprays on a regular basis. Plow down crop residue immediately following harvest. Early Blight (fungus) Characteristics: Leaf spots are dark brown to black with concentric rings or zones within the spot. On fruit, large, dark, sunken areas develop particularly at the calyx end or on growth cracks. Control: Apply fungicide sprays if required. Healthy plants which are not stressed can tolerate some leaf spotting. Late Blight (fungus) Characteristics: Irregular greenish black water soaked areas appear on older leaves. Infected fruit remains firm but becomes rough with greasy greenish-brown patches. This disease is more common under cool moist conditions and is the same fungus which causes late blight of potatoes. A new strain of blight is now well established in this region and is extremely aggressive on tomatoes. Control: Apply fungicide sprays. Do not plant near potato fields. Control cull potatoes from the previous season. See the Atlantic Provinces Potato Guide for more detail. Anthracnose (fungus) Characteristics: Common rot of ripe fruit causing circular sunken spots which develop dark centres. Infection by other secondary organisms may cause complete rotting of fruit. Fruit becomes more susceptible as it ripens. Control: Apply fungicide sprays. Follow a 3 year rotation. Botrytis Rot (fungus) Characteristics: Gray mold rot of foliage, stem and fruit occurs. Pale green silvery ring marks with a brownish puncture in the center, known as ghost spot, occurs on the green fruit. The same rings are generally yellow on ripe fruit. This disease is associated with wet, humid weather. This is a serious disease of tomatoes every year and is a major cause of fruit rot. Control: Use fungicides for control in tunnel house or field. Bacterial Speck and Spot (bacterium) Characteristics: These two bacterial diseases are spread by seed and transplants and can overwinter from the previous year's diseased crop. Most spread takes place during transplant production and is increased by high humidity. Symptoms include black spots on the leaves with a yellow border and small dark spots on the fruit. Control: Hot water treat the seed and apply a fungicide seed protectant. Use sterilized soil in the greenhouse and disinfect flats. If these diseases appear in the greenhouse or field, apply appropriate fungicide plus copper sprays. Premixing the spray for 90 minutes or longer (overnight) increases efficacy. If tomatoes are staked use a disinfectant on used stakes. Follow at least a two year rotation. Bacterial Canker (bacterium) Characteristics: This bacterial disease is seed borne and can overwinter for one year in infected plant debris. Leaves wilt, die and brown cankers develop on the stem. White spots develop on the fruit with dark corky centers. Control: Hot water treat the seed and apply a fungicide seed protectant. Use sterilized seeding mix and disinfect flats and tools. Do not plant into fields which have been infested for at least two years. Virus Diseases Tomato Mosaic: Leaves and occasionally green fruit are mottled with light and dark green patches. Fruit may ripen unevenly and have internal brown streaks. This highly infectious virus can be spread simply by touching infected plants. Cucumber Mosaic: Infected plants are stunted with distorted (shoestring) leaves. Most disease spread is by aphids feeding first on diseased plants and then on healthy. Double Virus Streak: This disease is caused by infection of the plant by both tomato mosaic and PVX virus. Infected plants have mottled leaves, brown streaks on the stems and petioles and brown greasy blotches on the fruit. Control: Keep young plants virus-free by sanitation measures and aphid control. Avoid unnecessary handling of plants. Infections of older, well developed plants do not affect yield appreciably. Grow seedlings away from mature tomato plants. Eradicate weed hosts in or near the greenhouse. Do not keep ornamentals in the same greenhouse with tomato seedlings. Do not smoke or chew tobacco when handling plants. Wash hands with soap (trisodium phosphate, a detergent, is best) and water before handling tomato plants. Do not harden transplants by leaving them in headlands or other weedy places. Do not use cultivators in an infected crop and then in a healthy one. Non-Parasitic Disorders Blossom-end Rot A physiological disorder. Lack of adequate soil moisture and insufficient calcium uptake from the soil to the fruits during dry weather have been shown to cause this disorder. Excessive magnesium, potassium, sodium, or ammonium salts, or a deficiency of soluble calcium salts, all tend to decrease calcium uptake. Control: Timely irrigation will reduce or prevent this disorder. If drought occurs, and irrigation is not possible, cultivation should be very shallow to reduce water loss. Hoeing or cultivating should be done no closer than 30 cm from the plants to avoid root pruning. Maintain a high organic matter content in the soil and a high soil pH. Spray applications of calcium nitrate or a preplant application of gypsum will help control this disorder. Blotchy Ripening Characteristics: Blotchy Ripening is a disorder which involves irregular fruit ripening. Slow growth due to plant stress seems to be the cause. Control: Eliminate heat or moisture stress wherever possible. Yellow Shoulder Characteristics: Climatic conditions prevent the red pigment from developing in the wall tissue near the stem. The shoulders of the tomato then became deep yellow in color. Cultivars with green shoulders are more susceptible and high temperatures during the growing season aggravate this problem. Fruits exposed to direct sunlight appear to be the most susceptible. Control: Avoid susceptible cultivars and protect crops from high temperatures where possible. Insects Cutworm Characteristics: Sometimes a serious problem especially near grassy margins of fields. Occasionally it can be a widespread problem. Control: Control couch grass and then perennial weeds in the year prior to planting. Apply chemical sprays as necessary. Flea Beetles Characteristics: Adults are 1.5 to 3 mm long, black or bronze beetles. Their hind legs are well developed for jumping. The white larvae are in the soil, and therefore seldom seen. Depending on species, there are one or two generations a year. Adults overwinter in the soil. Eggs are laid on or near the roots where larvae feed. Mature larvae pupate in the soil near the host plant. Adults emerge in early August for single-generation species. Last-generation adults feed on foliage until fall, when they return to the soil to overwinter. Control: Before transplanting, lightly spray the plants in the flats with a field spray insecticide. Watch closely in the field as damage may occur suddenly and an insecticide may be needed. Tomato Fruit Worm (Corn earworm) Characteristics: This pest is not usually a serious problem. Larvae feed on the fruit. See Corn Guide for description. During years of high populations of this insect, damage can be severe when pesticides are not used in a preventative manner. Control: The insecticides applied for flea beetles will control this pest. The Colorado Potato Beetle Characteristics: The Colorado Potato Beetle is an occasional pest. Larvae feed on leaves. Control: Insecticides applied for the flea beetle will control this pest. Insecticide resistance can be a problem. Wireworm Characteristics: Early in the spring, adult wireworms (click beetles) lay their eggs around grass roots. The larvae hatch in about a week and, depending on the species, will live for 1 to 5 years in the ground feeding on roots and seeds. Wireworms require 3 or more years to complete their life cycle. Wireworms of all sizes and ages are present in the soil throughout the year as there is always an overlapping of generations. The wireworms, or larvae, are yellow, white or darker shades of brown. Fully developed larvae may be 1.2 to 4 cm long and have a hard, smooth surface. When a larva is mature, it pupates in the fall. It then becomes an adult beetle and waits until spring to emerge. Wireworms are often numerous in land that has been in sod for several years. They are also more abundant in heavy poorly drained soil. Wireworms are sometimes confused with millipedes. Millipedes have numerous pairs of legs and coil up when disturbed, while wireworms have three pairs of legs near the front of the body and do not coil up. Monitor fields prior to planting and Control: Monitor fields prior to planting and avoid planting crops highly susceptible to wireworms in a field that has been recently in sod. See appendix III in the Guide to Pest Management for Vegetable Crops. SPECIFIC CHEMICAL CONTROLS FOR THE VARIOUS CROP PESTS DISCUSSED MAY BE FOUND IN THE ‘GUIDE TO PEST MANAGEMENT’ FOR VEGETABLE CROPS. Harvesting and Handling Pick fruit at the ripe, pink or mature-green stage depending on its use and distance to market. At about 21 C, pink fruits ripen in 1 to 2 days and mature-green fruits in 4 to 5 days. Exposure of green fruit to ethylene supplied as a gas to harvested fruit, or as a field spray of ethephon, accelerates ripening. Prolonged exposure to temperatures above 30 C can inhibit red pigment formation. Ethephon is used for field ripening of processing tomatoes for once over harvesting. Storage and Conditioning Mature-green tomatoes should be stored at 13 C to 21 C. Optimum temperatures for ripening are between 18 C to 21 C, while 14 C to 16 C is most desirable for slowing ripening without increasing decay. Firm ripe fruit can be held as low as 7 C to 10 C (pink fruit are stored at intermediate temperatures, 10 to 15 C). Relative humidity in all cases should be 90 to 95%. Mature green fruit can be held 2 to 6 weeks while ripe fruit can only be held 1 week in conventional storage. Controlled atmosphere storage may be used to delay ripening and extend storage life. Botrytis and Alternaria rots may be a problem, especially if fruit have been chilled in the field or in storage. Bibliography (See also General References) McKeen, C. D. 1984. Tomato Diseases. Agriculture Canada. Pub. 1479E. 58 pp. Stephens, C.T., D. G. Helsel, and H. C. Price. 1983. Tomato Disorders. M.S.U. Co-operative Extension Bulletin E-1679. 15 pp. Tomato Diseases and Their Control. 1972. U.S.D.A. Agricultural Handbook No. 203. 109 pp. Diseases and Pests of Vegetable Crops in Canada. 1994. Canadian Phytopathological Society and Entomological Society of Canada. pp 269 to 289 and pp 489 to 501. Peppers and Tomatoes Research Profile. 1995. Vegetable and Potato Producers Association of Nova Scotia. 196 pp. Commercial Production of Staked Tomatoes in North Carolina. 1990. North Carolina State University (Ag. Extension Services). 23 pp.", "Grow Tomatoes from Seed By Suzanne DeJohn A crop of tomato seedlings growing in Biodegradable Cowpots. If you've never bitten into a fragrant, vine-ripened, sun-warmed tomato harvested fresh from your own garden, you haven't tasted a real tomato. And once you do, you'll never again be satisfied with the mealy supermarket impostors. Fortunately, tomato plants are easy to grow and remarkably productive. Tomatoes are long-season, heat-loving plants that won't tolerate frost, so it's best to set them into the garden as transplants (young plants) after the weather has warmed up in spring. You can purchase tomato transplants, but there's something especially rewarding about starting your own plants indoors. Plus, by growing your own transplants you can choose from among hundreds of tomato varieties that are available as seed but rarely sold as transplants. Quick to germinate and grow, tomato seeds are best sown indoors about six weeks before your average last frost date. (To determine your last frost date, ask a gardening neighbor or call your Cooperative Extension office.) Here's what you'll need to start tomato seeds indoors: Tomato seeds Sterile seed starting mix Containers A warm place with sufficient light Fertilizer Seeds There are hundreds of tomato varieties available as seed, and choosing a few for your home garden can be a daunting task. Here are a few things to consider: Decide on the type of tomatoes you want; for example, cherry tomatoes, slicers or tomatoes for making sauce or paste. Consider the size of the mature plants. ""Determinate"" tomatoes grow to about 3 feet tall and are the best choice for containers. ""Indeterminate"" tomatoes get very large, up to 6 feet tall. (All tomatoes benefit from support with cages or ladders.) Look for disease-resistance. Tomatoes are susceptible to a number of diseases that may or may not be a problem in your region. To be on the safe side, I always grow at least one variety with resistance to verticillium and fusarium (designated by a V or F after the variety name). For more detailed information, read below How to Select the Right Tomato Variety below. Seedstarting Mix Always use a sterile, soilless mix to start seeds. Avoid garden soil, which often drains poorly and may harbor disease organisms. Look for mixes labeled for seedstarting, such as our Germinating Mix; it has a fine texture that's perfect for delicate seedlings. (Learn more: Choosing the Right Soil for Seed Starting.) Containers You can start your seeds in just about anything that holds soil and has drainage holes — I've used small yogurt containers and even egg cartons with holes poked in the bottoms and waterproof saucers underneath. However, I've found it more convenient to use purchased pots, such as Biodegradable Cowpots and seed starting systems, such as APS seed starters. Warmth and Light Seeds germinate best at warm room temperature (70-75F); you can speed germination by providing bottom heat with a heat mat. Once they're up and growing, seedlings grow best in cool room temperature, about 65F. Although you can start your tomatoes on a sunny windowsill, you'll get better results growing them under some type of grow light. Winter and early spring sunlight isn't nearly as intense as summer sunlight, and there are fewer hours of daylight, too. Insufficient light can lead to weak, spindly plants. A light garden with adjustable fluorescent lights is ideal for seed starting. Learn more: Gardening Under Lights. Step-By-Step Seed Starting Here are the steps to successfully starting your tomato seeds. Thoroughly moisten the seed starting mix, and then fill the containers to within 1/2″ of the top. Firm the mix but don't compact it. Place two or three seeds into each small container or each cell of an APS. Cover the seed with about 1/4″ of soil and gently firm it over the seeds. Tomato seedlings in a self-watering APS seedstarter. Water to ensure good seed-to-mix contact. You can use a plant mister or just dribble a stream of water over the top. You don't need to soak the soil, just moisten the top layer. Place the pots in a warm spot or on top of a heat mat. At this point, the seeds don't need light. Keep the mix moist but not soaking wet. If your seedstarting system has a greenhouse top, use it to help hold moisture. Or, you can lay some plastic kitchen wrap over the tops of the pots. Check pots daily. As soon as you see sprouts remove the covering and place the pots in the sunny window or under grow lights, keeping the lights just an inch or two above the Growing On Continue to keep the soil moist but not saturated. Dry seedstarting mix is lighter in color than moist mix — a good indication that it needs watering. Some gardeners run a fan in the room with their growing seedlings; good air circulation reduces the chances of disease problems, such as damping off. If you're growing plants on a windowsill, rotate pots daily so plants grow upright instead of leaning toward the light. If you're growing under lights, raise the lights as the plants grow, keeping them just a few inches above the plants. Thinning. For the strongest, healthiest plants you'll want just one seedling per pot or cell. Thinning (removing extra seedlings) is a tough task for many gardeners who hesitate to dispatch the seedlings they've been nurturing. But it has to be done. Select the strongest, healthiest seedling and use a pair of scissors to snip off the others at the soil line. You can try to transplant the extras into different pots, but you risk disturbing the roots of the remaining plant and, realistically, how many tomato plants can your garden accommodate? Fertilizing. Once the second set of true leaves appears, it's time to begin fertilizing. The first two leaves are called ""seed leaves;"" subsequent leaves are called ""true leaves."" Use a soluble fertilizer, such as PHC for Seedlings, diluted to half the recommended rate. Apply it once or twice a week. Repotting. Your tomatoes may need to be transplanted to larger containers if they outgrow their pots before it's time to set them outdoors. Don't allow the plant to get pot-bound, with the roots filling the container, or growth may be stunted. For step-by-step instructions, read How to Repot a Tomato Seedling. Transplanting into the garden. Wait to transplant your tomato seedlings into the garden until after the average last spring frost date. Be prepared to protect the seedlings with garden fabric (row cover) if a late frost threatens. If all goes well, you'll be harvesting ripe tomatoes in eight weeks or less. Use scissors to thin out crowded seedlings. How to Select the Right Tomato Variety For most gardeners, just any old tomato won't do By Kathy LaLiberte A bowl of several kinds of small tomatoes: cherry-, plum- and pear-shaped. From North to South, and coast to coast, tomatoes are consistently the most popular vegetable in American gardens. But for most gardeners, just any old tomato won't do. Some like them red, some like them yellow, orange or even purple! Some prefer tomatoes as tiny as a dime and some want them as big as a melon. Some like them juicy, some like them dense and pulpy. Fortunately, there are almost 700 different tomato varieties in cultivation today. Plenty of choices for everyone! If you've been gardening for many years, you probably already have a few favorite tomato varieties that you plant every year. In my own garden, I've tried at least two dozen different varieties over the years. When spring comes and it's time to decide which tomato varieties to grow, here's what I think about: fruit characteristics, time to maturity, growth habit and disease resistance. Disease resistance is important, because tomatoes are vulnerable to a number of diseases that can weaken the plant and reduce yields. Look at the catalog description, seed packet or plant label to see if that variety has resistance to verticillium and fusarium wilt, two very common soil-borne diseases that affect tomatoes. Resistance to these diseases is designated by a V or F after the variety name. If tomatoes in your region suffer from root-knot nematode (N), Tobacco Mosaic virus (T) or Alternaria (A), look for resistance to these diseases as well. Late blight has been a problem in recent years. Do what you can to understand the disease and prevent it. Two varieties with unusual striping. Growth habit is important to consider because to get a bumper tomato crop, you need to provide enough room for the plant and adequate support. Tomato plants have one of two growth habits. Determinate (bush) varieties grow to a certain height (usually 2-3 ft), set fruit, and then concentrate on ripening that fruit. Indeterminate (vine) varieties keep growing taller and taller, setting and ripening fruit until they’re killed by frost. If you have a limited amount of growing space or will be growing tomatoes in a container, you should probably select a determinate (bush) variety. Determinate varieties are also good for cold climate gardeners who need to harvest their whole crop within a couple weeks. If you have plenty of space, prefer to pick your tomatoes over several months, and are prepared to provide sturdy support with stakes, cages or ladders, select a an indeterminate variety. Heirloom, Open-Pollinated or Hybrid? If you want to save your own seeds from one year to the next, you should plant heirloom or open-pollinated varieties. Seeds collected from these plants will ""come true"", meaning they will grow into an identical plant the following year. Heirloom tomatoes such as 'Brandywine', 'Red Calabash', 'Mortgage Lifter' and 'Arkansas Traveler' are all open-pollinated varieties that have been passed on from one generation to the next. Hybrids are a cross between two genetically different varieties that have been selected for certain desirable traits. Hybrid varieties often offer better disease resistance or higher yields, but they will not come true from seed. Most varieties of paste tomatoes are determinate. Because most of the fruit ripens within two or three weeks, I spend those couple weekends canning, making sauce for the freezer, and running the dehydrator. Then it's over! Because these determinate plants only get about 2 ft high, they do fine without any support. I just use plastic or straw mulch to keep the fruit off the ground. Most cherry and beefsteak tomatoes are indeterminate. This means the plants get huge, but it also means they produce fruit continuously from early July right to frost. Time to maturity is important if you have a short growing season. Where I live, I need to harvest my tomatoes by early September, before the light fades and frost comes. So I look for tomato varieties that will start ripening fruit in less than 75 days. Many of the really big beefsteak varieties require a full 90 days to mature. Fruit characteristics are what I care about most. I use tomatoes in salads, on sandwiches, and just to eat out of hand. I dry them, can them and also use them in fresh and frozen sauces. So I select tomato varieties based on how well they're suited to these uses. Here are three of the varieties I've been planting lately: Sun Gold is a 65-day, indeterminate golden-orange cherry tomato. The plants are big and rangy, so they need to be well staked, and should be surrounded by a strong cage, such as the Tomato Tower. Support them well, and they'll produce an incredible abundance of 1"" diameter ultra-sweet fruit over a full 3 months. If you live where summers are hot, you probably don't have much trouble growing sweet, flavorful tomatoes. But in areas where summer is short and nights are cool, tomatoes never get very sweet. I have been so spoiled by Sun Gold's dependable super-sweet flavor that I now add them to my tomato sauces and slice them onto my sandwiches. I even dry them to toss into winter salads and pasta dishes. Big Beef is another indeterminate tomato, but it produces big, 4 to 6"" diameter fruit that are great for tomato sandwiches. At 80 days, this variety is early for a beefsteak-type, so I usually get a couple weeks worth of ripe fruit before frost. Tomato Ladders work well for this variety. Juliet is a 60-day indeterminate that produces a huge crop. The fruit is oval and it's about 2"" long. It's firm, glossy and quite dense, like a miniature paste tomato. Juliet ripens fast and furious, and I use it for soups, sauces, salsas and cold salads. They also get stewed whole for canning, and get halved for drying.", "Tomatoes are among the most popular and rewarding crops for summer gardens. While all fruit and vegetables taste better picked fresh from the garden, tomatoes are in a class of their own. The flavor of a ripe, homegrown tomato picked on a warm summer day is hard to beat. Homegrown tomatoes are packed with goodness. Tomatoes provide lycopene, which is an antioxidant found in red fruit, along with vitamins A and C, carotene and dietary fibre. They consist of approximately 94.5% water. Tomatoes originated in South and Central America and are part of the Solanaceae or nightshade family, which also includes potato, tobacco and chilli. First domesticated by the Aztecs before 500BC, there are now believed to be more than 10,000 tomato cultivars. Growing Tomatoes for more info: Toll Free 1800 335 508 www.seasol.com.au When to plant Tomatoes can be grown in most part of Australia. Check with garden centres and hardware stores for varieties available in your local area. 1. In subtropical and tropical climates tomatoes can be planted and grown year-round. 2. In cool and temperate regions climates grow tomatoes in the warmest parts of the year, planting out around October or November. Seeds can be sown from late winter onwards, but seedlings should not be planted out until the soil has begun to warm and all chance of frost has passed. If the weather does turn cold, cover plants overnight to protect them from frost. 3. In warm temperate areas tomatoes are planted from August onwards. Make several plantings through spring and early summer to keep the fruit coming well into autumn. Location • They grow best in full sun (or with light afternoon shade in hotter climates). Protect young seedlings with shade cloth. • In smaller spaces or in containers select patio tomatoes, which are small, sturdy plants that don’t need large stakes and can grow without support, or cascading or tumbling varieties that can be grown to spill over the edge of a pot or raised garden bed. Cherry-style tomatoes have small fruit but form large plants. • Do not plant tomatoes in the same location as last season, as this can expose tomatoes to soil-borne diseases. • Companion plant with basil, parsley, garlic, marigolds and nasturtiums. Soil Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic to neutral, light, well-drained soil but will also grow well in slightly alkaline soil. Dig in compost or well-rotted manure before planting or apply Seasol Liquid Compost. In areas with heavy or poorly drained soils, grow tomatoes in raised garden beds. A soil rich in nutrients helps build strong plants so add Seasol Plant + Soil Booster (100g per square metre) and a fertiliser such as PowerFeed Controlled Release Tomatoes & Vegetables. *Check application rates on product labels or go to the Seasol website. LIFE CYCLE OF TOMATOES 1 Seed Germination Baby tomato seedlings Planting out tomato seedlings Tomato plant growth Tomato flower and fruit growth Tomato harvest 2 3 4 5 6 7 4. Planting out tomato seedlings Growing Tomatoes for more info: Toll Free 1800 335 508 www.seasol.com.au *Check application rates on product labels or go to the Seasol website. 1. Sowing seeds 2. Germination 3. Baby tomato seedlings • Grow from seed sown into individual seed cells or punnets to transplant in around six weeks. • Press two or three seeds about 1-2cm down into moist seed raising mix and cover lightly cover with more mix or vermiculite. Do not plant the seeds too deep as they will not germinate. • Water in well with Seasol GOLD or Seasol as this will help to increase seed germination rates. Soil should be moist but not wet, so check soil moisture daily to ensure tomato seeds have the right conditions to germinate. • Tomatoes can be grown in individual 10-15cm pots or large containers. Continue to shelter until conditions warm and all threat of frost has passed before moving seedlings outside. • Tomatoes need warm conditions to germinate (16°C and above). Expect germination in 6-14 days (slower rates in colder conditions). • For faster seed germination rates in seed trays, put them inside on a heating pad. • When tomatoes sprout, they only have two leaves. These seedlings leaves look like two narrow leaves on either side of the stem. • Water gently and apply Seasol GOLD or Seasol weekly (30mL of concentrate per 9 litres of water) as this will help to stimulate strong root development and healthy growth. • About two weeks after the seed leaves have opened, the true leaves will appear; these are the first tomato leaves. • If overcrowding occurs, select the strongest seedling and thin out or transplant the rest. • Use scissors or tweezers to thin out seedlings to avoid disturbing young roots. • Tomato seedlings need a lot of nutrients to grow to produce a tasty bumper crop so liquid feed with PowerFeed PRO SERIES for Tomatoes & Vegetables every 2 weeks. Increase the application rates from 20mL to 50mL of concentrate per 9 litres of water as the plants mature. • Check soil moisture daily and water as needed. • Transplant homegrown seedlings when they form two to three true leaves and are large enough to handle. Space 50-60cm apart (depending on variety) in rows at least 60cm apart (greater spacing makes it easier to manage and train vines). • Most tomatoes are tall-growing vines (indeterminate) that need plenty of space and the support of 2-3m high stakes, a tripod or trellis to grow strong and healthy. • Where seedlings have been purchased, plant according to the directions on the plant tag. • Seedlings or grafted plants should be planted deeply, burying the bottom few centimetres of the stem in the soil to encourage extra root formation which not only gives the plant extra support but also can source extra nutrients and water. • Check the moisture level of the soil daily and water when needed. 5. Tomato plant growth • Tie growth to supports using a soft tie so as not to damage the stem. Tie below a leaf stalk or flower cluster. • Control the bushiness of the plant by pruning out laterals (shoots from the leaf axils). This also allows more sunlight to reach developing fruit. • As the plant reaches the top of the stake, it can be tip pruned to control its size. • Every 6-8 weeks apply another application of PowerFeed Controlled Release Tomatoes & Vegetables to produce a bumper crop of tasty tomatoes and to revitalise depleted soils. Remember to water it in thoroughly after application. Growing Tomatoes • In fruit fly zones begin to protect fruit as soon as it is fully sized and well before it ripens. • Green fruit ripen indoors but flavour is at its best when tomatoes are vine ripened. • Healthy tomato plants continue to fruit and grow until cold conditions halt growth. • Keep tomato plants healthy by removing dead and diseased leaves and stems. This will also opens up air circulation around the plant. for more info: Toll Free 1800 335 508 www.seasol.com.au *Check application rates on product labels or go to the Seasol website. • Remove weeds as they appear as they compete for space and nutrients. • Mulch around each plant suppresses weeds and helps retain soil moisture and can prevent the spread of mites to the leaves. • Fruiting quickly follows flowering and will form in 12-20 weeks from sowing seed. • As flowers begin, apply PowerFeed PRO SERIES for Tomatoes & Vegetables and Seasol GOLD or Seasol weekly. 7. Tomato harvest 6. Tomato flower & fruit growth Things to watch out for... • Fruit fly These pests (Queensland fruit fly and medfly), which are found in all parts of Australia except South Australia, Tasmania and Victoria, can ruin tomato crops. To protect tomatoes as they ripen, regularly apply baits containing spinosad such as Eco Naturalure (follow the instructions on the container), bag fruit or pick fruit to ripen indoors. • Tomato russet mite While this tiny mite is hard to see, its damage is obvious particularly in hot weather. Leaves start to brown and die from the base of the plant moving upwards. It can also cause corky damage to fruit. Control with regular applications tomato dust, which will also control other pests such as caterpillars and thrips. Removing lower leaves can also slow the attack. • Blossom end rot Water-stressed tomatoes fail to take up enough calcium from the soil and their fruit can be affected by blossom end rot, which causes brown, leathery patches to form at the base of the fruit. Increase frequency of watering. • Target spot Brown spots and yellowing leaves indicate the fungal disease known as target spot, which can also spread to stems and fruit. Control with registered fungicides. Crop rotation is important to control this disease, which also attacks potatoes and weeds in the Solanaceae family. • Tomato viruses There are a range of viruses that cause tomato plants to wilt or die back. Most are also found on other Solanaceae plants including potatoes and weeds. Sap-sucking insects such as thrips can spread viral diseases. Manage by following crop rotation (not growing Solanaceae crops in the same beds in successive seasons), controlling weeds and controlling pests. Remove any affected plants. There are no chemical controls. • Tomato ripening Tomatoes may stop flowering and fruiting when temperatures rise above 35°C however, when the temperatures drop below this level, they’ll return to productivity.", "TOMATO PRODUCTION Introduction Tomato is a popular garden vegetable used in salads, as a vegetable, processed into tomato paste, sauce and puree. Tomato is very rich in vitamins. It belongs to the Nightshade family along with potatoes, peppers and eggplants. Types of tomato There are 2 types of Tomatoes – determinate and indeterminate types. Determinate types The determinate tomatoes, or ""bush"" tomatoes, grow to a height 3 - 4' and stop growing when fruit sets on the top bud. All the tomatoes from the plant ripen at approximately the same time (usually over a period of 1- 2 weeks). They are mainly grown for canning. They require a limited amount of staking for support. Examples of determinate tomato include – Oxyl, Rambo F1, and Sandokan F1. Indeterminate types Indeterminate tomatoes can grow to well over 6’. They flower, set new fruit and ripen fruits for many months. They require substantial staking for support. Examples of indeterminate tomatoes include – Chonto F1, Bravo F1, and Mavuno F1. Image: Wikihow.com Indeterminate variety keeps growing while determinate stops growing after the first harvest Ecological requirements Temperature Tomato is a warm-season crop that is sensitive to frost. An average temperature of 20 -24 °C is needed for good growth & yield and high fruit quality. Fruit set and quality are poor at temperatures below 12 °C while temperatures above 35 °C with hot, dry winds cause excessive flower drop. Continuous moist, rainy weather conditions result in the occurrence and spread of foliar diseases. Soil requirements Tomato grows best in deep, well-drained loams. The soil should be rich in organic matter and plant nutrients, with a pH value of 6 -7. Tomato does well under the following conditions: • Medium rainfall range of 760 - 1300 mm though can be done under irrigation • Optimum temperature of 20-25℃ during the day and 15-17℃ at night • Well-drained light loam-fertile soils with a pH of 5-7. Use certified tomato seeds. These are disease free and give higher yield. Varieties preference may depend on where to grow (greenhouse or open field), target market i.e. canning or fresh market. Growing tomatoes Tomatoes are first started in a nursery for 3-4 weeks before transferring to the field. Nursery establishment Tomato is first started in a nursery. Nursery should be an area that does not flood. Make it on a level ground to avoid erosion of soil, seed & nutrients. You will need about 100g of seed/acre. Follow the steps below to make a good nursery: 1. Select a site and a field in which a crop of tomato family e.g. potato, eggplant, pepper, tobacco had not been previously grown. Since same pests and diseases attack them, seedlings can easily be affected. 2. Make raised nursery beds 15 cm above the ground and 1 metre wide to easily reach all plants. 3. Put 1 debe of manure for every square metre of nursery bed and mix well with soil. 4. To plant make shallow furrow (about) 1cm & 15-20 cm apart across the bed and place the seeds. 5. Cover lightly with soil and put dried grass as mulch on the nursery bed 6. Spray the soil with an insecticides like Pearl 50SC and a fungicide like CONTROL 70DF to stop early pests and diseases in the nursery 7. The seeds will sprout within 8 days. 8. When seedling sprout, remove the mulch and make a shade over the bed 9. Water the seedlings 2-3 times a week. Image: Shamba Shape Up Make a raised bed 15cm high & have a shade Image: Shamba Shape Up Drench in the nursery and after transplanting Transplanting Transplant Tomato seedlings from the nursery when they have developed strong root & top growth. This is after 3-4 weeks after planting in the nursery & seedlings are 6-10 inches tall. Image: Shamba Shape Up For transplanting, select healthy seedlings 6-10 inches tall and with at least 3-4 leaves Procedure for transplanting: 1. 6-9 days before transplanting reduce amount of watering & remove shade to harden & prepare seedlings to outdoor conditions. 2. To reduce transplant shock of seedlings, transplant seedlings in the evening or on a cloudy, cool day. Avoid transplanting in a hot, sunny, windy day. 3. When transplanting the seedlings from nursery, pull them up with a lump of soil. This will stop roots drying out & seedling with establish faster. Planting Out 1. It is recommended to make a soil test 3-5 months before crop is planted. This will enable you to make an appropriate fertilizer management programme for good growth and high yield without wasting fertilizer. You will also detect if soil has serious diseases like Bacterial wilt. 2. If soil testing has not been done, make holes about 15cm deep, put a handful of manure &1 bottle-top of Mavuno planting fertilizer. Plant 1 seedling/hole (with leaves 5-10cm above the soil) & firm the soil around the plant. 3. Water Tomato plants regularly, putting water at the stem (not leaves), water early in morning or later in the day but not at night. This will reduce some fungal diseases 4. Mulch the seedlings 3-5 weeks after planting (not earlier) by placing dry grass at the base of the plants. The grass will keep off weeds, stop soil from drying & also stop pests. Image: Shamba Shape Up The right spacing for transplanting tomatoes is 45cm from on plant to another on rows 60cm apart Fertilization (Top-dressing & Foliar Feed) 1. Top-dress the plants with MAVUNO TOPDRESS 26:0:0 at 10g/plant after 3-4 weeks of transplanting. Leaf establishment in the plant uses nitrogen in the fertilizer. 2. Top-dress again with MAVUNO NPK 15:10:22 at 10g/plant when plants flower. The compound fertilizer is necessary for the supply of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium that is needed for flowering. 3. The NPK (compound) fertilizer NPK top-dress should be repeated after the first harvest. 4. In addition to NPK Tomato require other nutrients (known as micro-nutrients) in small quantities. To provide these, foliar feeds should be applied regularly. 5. During flowering & fruit setting avoid excessive Nitrogen; it leads to excess vegetative growth, poor fruit set, smaller fruits, hollow fruits and poor keeping quality. 6. Inadequate calcium can lead to Blossom-end rot disease; this disease can be corrected by applying calcium fertilizers or foliar spray such as EASYGRO Calcium. Weeding 1. Weeds use food from the soil, space and water that Tomato crop needs. Pests stay on weeds and will jump across and cause harm to your crop. Take off the weeds often. 2. If weeds are left uncontrolled, severe infestations can reduce yield at least 50% 3. Use of mulch acts as a barrier to the growth of many weeds and at the same time conserving moisture in the soil. 4. Hand weeding is recommended both for the greenhouse and outdoor tomatoes. Image: Shamba Shape Up Take out weeds using a jembe to keep field weed-free. Mulching stop weeds from growing Supporting the plant Tomato plant is supported to allow free air movement and reduces moisture accumulation thus reducing disease incidences. 1. Tying the plant on poles and wires does the support. This is usually done early at 3-4 weeks after transplanting – to avoid plant damage. 2. Tie a string lightly on the tomato and then gently twine the string around the plant to avoid snapping the stem. Alternatively, a peg can be inserted in soil just adjacent to the tomato and a string tied on to it and then tied on the barbed wire above; the tomato is then made to wind on the string. Staking Staking is required to support plants once the fruiting starts especially for indeterminate types. § It keeps vines and leaves off the ground; fruit is cleaner with less rotting. § It makes harvesting easier. § It makes it easier working around plants. Image: Shamba Shape Up Support tomato stems by staking for clean and quality fruit How to stake 1. Use stakes (wooden, metal, bamboo cane) and push them into the soil 1-2 inches away from the main stem. 2. Loosely tie the main stem to the stake with a soft thick cord that will not cut into the stem over time. Image: Wikihow.com Fix stakes close to plants and tie loosely around the plant Pruning This is the regular removal of side shoots to remain with two healthy stems. 1. Weekly scout for side shoots before they develop into big shoots. 2. Remove side shoots, laterals, old leaves, diseased leaves & branches and overshadowed lower leaves by hand. 3. Remove flowers to 5-6 per cluster so as to get medium- large sized fruits. 4. To avoid the spread of diseases from plant to plant, do not use secateurs or a knife, ‘pinch out’ instead using your thumb and forefinger. 5. After formation of the first fruit cluster of mature green tomatoes remove all the lower older leaves to allow for ventilation and disperse food to the fruits. Image: Wikihow.com When pruning, remove old leaves, excess flower clusters and side shoots Pests and Diseases Regularly, look out for pests & diseases in Tomato crop & control them as soon as possible. Pests Scouting two to three times per week, however, allowing for early detection of infestations and timely application of pest specific control measures is the most cost-effective management strategy. The best time to look for pests is in the morning when they are on the plant before leaving to feed. Common pests include; Aphids, thrips, whiteflies, cutworms, bollworms, leaf miners, spider mites and nematodes. Disease Diseases cause Tomato to have poor yield & poor quality. They are more serious in hot & humid weather. Common diseases include: Wilts, Blight, Leaf spots and mildews. 1. For the control of pests, cultural methods are the best e.g. clean weeding, use of certified seed, destroying alternate hosts etc. 2. Do not wait till the pest or disease symptoms begin to show. Carry out preventive spraying; observe the product label recommendations in each case. For diseases e.g. mildews, blight, copper-based or sulphur-based fungicides are used. 3. Viral diseases can be controlled by controlling vectors. Key vectors include; aphids, thrips, whiteflies and nematodes", "Tomatoes NEP-224 Growing Your Own A beginner’s guide to gardening Tomatoes are a popular summer crop that many consider to be a basic part of the home garden. Growing tomatoes can require more labor compared to other vegetables, but the results can be very rewarding. Varieties There are two different kinds of tomato plants. Indeterminate tomatoes keep growing taller all season. Determinate tomatoes grow to a certain height and then stop. Early Girl (Photo: Johnny's Selected Seeds, johnnyseeds.com) Terenzo (Photo: All-American Selections) Determinate tomato plants are shorter than indeterminate plants. They can be staked, caged, or trellised, and need to be pruned only once. The harvest period is shorter compared to indeterminate types. You will harvest more tomatoes over a shorter period of time compared to indeterminate types. Some varieties of determinate tomatoes are: • Celebrity • Mountain Fresh • Carolina Gold (golden yellow) • Plum Dandy (paste) • Terenzo (cherry) This institution is an equal opportunity provider. This material was partially funded by USDA’s Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program—SNAP. This work is supported by the Expanded Food and Nutrition Education Program from the USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture. Indeterminate tomato plants must be trellised in order to stay upright. Pruning lower suckers (side branches) as the plants grow taller is recommended. Tomato harvest continues throughout the summer season as the plant grows. Some varieties of indeterminate tomatoes are: • Better Boy • Beefsteak (large fruit) • Early Girl • Juliet (grape) • Jolly (pear shaped) • Supersweet 100 (cherry) • Sungold (golden yellow cherry) • Cherokee Purple (heirloom, dark purple) • Brandywine (heirloom, red, pink, and yellow types) 2 How much to plant Plan for two or three plants for each person in your family. This should provide enough fresh tomatoes for everyone for most of the summer. For a family of five, that would be 10 to 15 plants. If you set out five plants for each person in your family, you should have enough to eat all summer and early fall. Plus, you should have enough to be able to can tomatoes for meals next winter and spring. That would be 25 plants for a family of five. A wire cage is one of the easiest ways to keep the plant off the ground, which results in better quality fruit. (Photo: Matt Barton, UK CES Agriculture Communications) Tomatoes can be supported by a stake, but you will need to loosely tie the plant around the stake as it grows taller. (Photo: Matt Barton, UK CES Agriculture Communications) Several tomatoes in a row can be supported by a trellis. There are many different options to create a trellis. Even using a wire fence is an option. Plants will need to be loosely tied to the trellis. When and how to plant Tomatoes are a warm-weather crop. They should not be planted until all danger of frosty weather is past. Safe days for planting in Kentucky are about May 1st (Western) and May 15th (Central and Eastern). Try to plant the tomatoes in the evening or on a cloudy day so they will not dry out. It is best to buy tomato plants ready to set in the garden in early May. You can try starting tomato seeds indoors in mid-March, but you will need a very bright window for plants to do well. • Plant tomatoes in rows about four feet apart. Put plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the row. Dig a hole six inches deep for each tomato plant. • Stake the plants. Put a six-foot stake about four inches from each plant. Drive the stake 8 to 10 inches deep into the soil. • Prune and tie the plants. As the plant grows, new shoots start where the leaves join the stem. Let the first shoot grow into a second main stem. Each week pinch off all other shoots Cherokee Purple (Photo: Johnny’s Selected Seeds, johnnyseeds.com) 3 Pests and diseases Tomatoes are susceptible to pests and diseases throughout the season. Protect young plants from cutworms by placing a cardboard tube around the base of the plant. Hornworms will eat both leaves and fruit and can be taken off by hand or by cutting away the foliage they are feeding on. They can be squashed under foot or disposed of in the trash. Corn earwoms feed on fruit and may burrow inside. Pull the worms off or use a pesticide. As tomato plants mature, portions of the plant need to be removed, which improves fruit quality and yield. The arrow in the photo is pointing at what is called a “sucker,” or side shoot, which needs to be removed. Otherwise, the plants will produce more leaves and less fruit. (Photo: Matt Barton, UK CES Agriculture Communications) A cutworm eating the stem of a plant. (Photo: R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Company Slide Set, R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Company, Bugwood.org) Tomato hornworms eat the leaves and stems of tomato plants. This reduces the amount of tomato fruit that is produced. (Photo: Fox & Hen Farm, LLC) There is a beneficial wasp that lays eggs in the body of tomato hornworms. Worms that have been affected by this will have white cocoonlike structures on their back. This is good for hornworm management. Do not remove hornworms that show signs of this wasp. (Photo: Fox & Hen Farm, LLC) growing on the two main stems, but be careful not to remove flower clusters close by. When the plant reaches 12 to 15 inches high, tie it to the stake. Use a heavy twine. Tie the twine tightly to the stake and then loop it around the plant. Each time the plant grows another 12 inches, add a tie. • Fertilize in summer. Once tomato fruit has reached a large size (about two weeks before the first harvest), scatter some urea fertilizer along sides of each row. Use only four to five tablespoons full per 10 feet of row. Add the same amount of fertilizer two to three weeks after first harvest. You may switch the urea fertilizer with a water-soluble fertilizer, which is dissolved in water and poured around the plants. Follow the advice from the label when preparing and applying water-soluble fertilizer. 4 Corn earworms will feed on the surface of the tomato fruit and may also tunnel into the fruit. (Photo: Alton N. Sparks, Jr., University of Georgia, Bugwood.org) Tomato blossom end rot is often caused by high temperatures and low soil moisture. Be sure to water your plants regularly. You may also put a light layer of straw around the base of the plants to help keep soil moist. (Photo: Brenda Kennedy, University of Kentucky, Bugwood.org) Blossom end rot may be prevented by keeping even soil moisture during the growing season. A mulch of straw or leaves may help. Move tomatoes to a new part of the garden every few years. This will lessen soil-based disease problems. Tomato plants may be very attractive to bees and other pollinators. Do not apply pesticides when pollinators are present. For more information on managing pests and diseases, contact your county Extension agent or consult the UK Cooperative Extension publication Growing Vegetables at Home in Kentucky (ID-128) at www2.ca.uky.edu/ agcomm/pubs/id/id128/id128.pdf. Harvesting Tomatoes can be picked from the vine when they first start to ripen. They will fully ripen indoors. Waiting until the tomatoes are fully colored on the vine does not make them taste better. Birds and rodents may be drawn to the bright color. Before the first frost, pick off all tomatoes, even the green ones that are the right size. Wrap them in newspaper, place in a box, and store in a cool place indoors. Check tomatoes every few days and move the ripened ones to a warmer, lit area. This method may result in “fresh” tomatoes for four to six weeks, but the flavor may lessen with time. Lastly, green tomatoes are edible. If you wish to eat green tomatoes, harvest when tomatoes are full size but before any red color is present. Clean Up Pull plants out of the ground after frost kills them and throw them away or place them on a compost pile. Many people think tomatoes are one of the best things about growing a home garden. Pick them when they first start to ripen and let them ripen fully inside. (Photo: Fox & Hen Farm, LLC) 5 Serving Tomatoes are rich in nutrients that promote good health, including fiber and vitamins A and C. A medium tomato contains about 25 calories, 20 mg sodium, and is a good source of potassium. Tomatoes can be eaten raw or cooked. Storing Store ripe tomatoes at room temperature and use them within three days. Keep out of direct sunlight. Place green tomatoes in a paper bag to ripen. Tomatoes will store longer when refrigerated but may lose quality. Preserve your garden’s harvest by home canning tomatoes and tomato products. This can help save money and gain control over what is in your food. When canning, do not use tomatoes Serve tomatoes raw or cooked. (Photo: Fox & Hen Farm, LLC) that are overripe or beginning to spoil. To ensure safe, high-quality home-canned products, always follow research-based recommendations when canning. For more information on home canning tomatoes, please refer to University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension publication Home Canning Tomatoes and Tomato Products (FCS3-580) at http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/FCS3/ FCS3580/FCS3580.pdf or contact your county Extension agent. Canning is a good way to preserve tomatoes for future use. (Photo: Fox & Hen Farm, LLC) Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of economic or social status and will not discriminate on the basis of race, color, ethnic origin, national origin, creed, religion, political belief, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression, pregnancy, marital status, genetic information, age, veteran status, or physical or mental disability. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Nancy M. Cox, Director of Cooperative Extension Programs, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food and Environment, Lexington, and Kentucky State University, Frankfort. Copyright © 2020 for materials developed by University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational or non- profit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s) and include this copyright notice. Publications are also available on the World Wide Web at www.ca.uky.edu. 8-2020 Cooperative Extension Services | Agriculture and Natural Resources | Family and Consumer Sciences | 4-H Youth Development | Community and Economic Development Authors: Rachel Rudolph, Extension Vegetable Specialist, and Rick Durham, Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist Contributions by: Matt Barton, Agriculture Communication Specialist, Jann Knappage, Food System Specialist, and Katie Shoultz, Marketing and Media Specialist", "Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 1 of 10 Growing food at home series Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 Types of tomatoes There are many different types of tomatoes to choose from and a great variety in the fruits they produce; some are better for cooking others best straight from bush to salad or sandwich. Home gardeners can grow varieties that are not commonly available in the grocery stores as they have limited storage ability even though their flavor maybe excellent. Select varieties for the use you prefer. There are four broad shape classifications for tomatoes:  Globe tomatoes: the most heavily commercially-cultivated fruit are large and round good for eating raw or cooking e.g. mande  Beefsteak tomatoes: biggest fruit used for sandwiches e.g. brandywine, mortgage lifter, grosse lisse  Plum/Paste tomatoes: small oval thick-walled fruit used to make sauces .e.g. romas, amish paste  Cherry tomatoes: smallest fruit good for snacks and salads e.g. tommy toe, black cherry Growing habit (shapes) The plants themselves grow in different shapes and heights; some require staking or can be let ramble, whilst others are smaller and bushier. Taller types e.g. Grosse Lisse, need to be supported by a stake (unless you want them to ramble and climb - this can make it difficult to keep pests and away and trim off diseased leaves) are also called indeterminate. These plants tend to produce fruits all season long with the fruits produced at intervals along their stems. Space these 80 – 100 cm apart. Smaller and bushier types e.g. Roma, called determinate and don’t require staking. They produce their fruits at the end of their branches and tend to bear most of their fruits all at once for a couple of weeks and then production fades out. That’s because it eventually forms a flower cluster at the terminal growing point, which causes it to stop growing in height. Space these 50 – 60 cm apart. Images: http://squarefoot.creatingforum.com/t3013-tomatoes-determinate-vs-indeterminate Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 2 of 10 Tomatoes may take 4-5 months until harvest, so some consideration of which varieties suit your interests and capacity needs to be taken. Plant at interval for extended crops. Site selection They will need at least 6 hours of sunlight, preferably morning sun and shelter from strong winds and western sun after 3pm. Orient your beds to maximise sunlight. In extreme heat periods- 35° to 40°, they will need to be shaded. Because of potential diseases that stay in the soil, plant in a section of the vegetable patch where tomatoes have not been grown for 2-3 years. Preparing the soil Tomatoes prefer a pH range of 5.5 – 7. The clays soils feature in most of the suburbs of City of Salisbury are alkaline. Test your soil with a pH testing kit these are readily available at garden stores. If the soil pH is too alkaline add Agricultural Sulphur at the recommended rates, and if too acid, use lime as per instructions on the packet. Tomatoes are heavy feeders that need rich, well-draining soil. Deal with drainage first, if you have clay soils add 60% or more of course builders to make it crumbly, or gypsum at a rate of a 9 litre bucket per 1 metre square. Then build up the nutrients in garden beds. We have found preparing the soil early, at least 6-8 weeks before planting, maybe the end of July for late September planting, advantageous. Too much nitrogen will give you big plants with little fruit, so make sure the any manures you add are well rotted, and check the nitrogen component of any other fertiliser is relatively low. Build the soil for feeding the plant when it is larger by mixing in the bed:  Organic matter including compost, gypsum (for calcium), pelletised chicken manure (Yate’s “Dynamic Lifter” or Neutrog’s “Gygantic” or “Sudden Impact for Roses”) or well- rotted manure - sheep or cow,blood and bone, and Sulphate of Potash  Water in and let sit until the weather is better and soil warmer for planting. Check the moisture levels if there is no rain you may need to water to keep the soil moist and the microorganism in the soil active Lyn’s preferred soil preparation: Start in winter about 6-8 weeks before planting. Lightly turn the soil, and make sure its moist  Pelletised chicken manure- 2 good handful of per square metre  Blood and bone- 1 good handful per square metre  Seamungus - 2 good handful per square metre  Sulphate of potash-1 small handful per square metre  Egg shells pulverised- scatter ½ handful per square metre  Turn over lightly and water  Repeat at 2 week intervals but don’t add any manure later than 4 weeks before planting.  When planting add a small amount of Sulphate of Potash, and throughout growing season when they flower to help set fruit Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 3 of 10 Selecting healthy seedling Select healthy young seedlings for planting. A healthy seedling is upright with a strong stem, not spindly, has lush green leaves not any yellow leaves or ones with spots on them and has some new growth. A few roots coming out of the holes in the bottom of the pot means its roots are established, too many roots coming through come may mean it is pot bound and not worth purchasing. Mildly pot bound where the roots are occupying the container is fine, and should help the plants establish flowers early. Add pinch of potash to the seedlings will help them flower too, which helps them get off to producing fruit early, not foliage. Before planting remove side shoots and suckers from the lower part of the stem and plant them deep (7.5-10cm) with only the last two leaves just above the ground. This will encourage strong root growth as roots will develop along the buried stem. Remove side shoots and plant deep to encourage strong root development Staking and supports Plan how you are going to grow your tomatoes and put their supports in when planting Imageshttp://www.vegetablegardener.com/item/5157/how-to-support-tomatoes Staking should be done before planting with consideration as to how you are going to prune as this will determine your staking requirements. Staking is important as the weight of fruit can cause the stems to strain and possibly split which allow access to diseases. You can use 1 stake per plant, one on each side, three for a triangle. Trellis can be made fence, wire; anything that will provide support to the plant will do, although metal can heat up in the sun and burn tomato leaves. Tree tomatoes and vigorous varieties e.g. Grosse Lisse and Sweet Bite need staking. Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 4 of 10 Note: Reduce disease by using only clean and sterlised materials Clean and sterilize stakes by soaking them in diluted bleach at the end of the season to prevent transferring soil borne diseases. Use soft material as ties such as stocking, old tee shirts ripped into strips or plant tie ribbon; anything with some give in it. String will quickly cut into a stem on a windy day so avoid. Planting In Adelaide planting out when the soil temperature is warm; in spring is the best time. But the overnight temperatures can still be low then so late spring may be better. Harden the seedling up before you plant them by leaving them in the same conditions that they will be growing in for a few hours over a few days prior to planting.  Plant tomatoes when the soil temperature is in the 15-20°C range - the preferred growing temperature, which is around late October to mid November. It’s best to plant when the night time temperatures are about 15°C. When planting, ensure that the temperatures on the following days are not going to be too hot  Space plants, still in containers, on the raised mound between trenches. Spacing depends on growing habit they need to be a reasonable distance apart to allow space to grow, access soil nutrition and have plenty of air around them  Position stakes before planting to prevent root damage. Taller growers will be easier to harvest and take up less space if grown up a wire frames, tee-pee like sticks, stakes or trellis.  Place 1tsp of blood and bone either side of the plant  Water in seedlings with a diluted seaweed extract 1:10 ratio Tip: Growing tomatoes in trenches is useful to channel water and fertiliser to plant roots. It’s also beneficial to prevent fungal infections which are easily spread by watering on their leaves. Dig the trench, and fertilise as you would for growing in normal beds Plastic tube attached to stakes or on the ground around plant roots left over night on cold nights can keep the soil temperature warmer and keep plant growth more consistent in spring. Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 5 of 10 Watering Tomato plants require regular to establish good growth and fruit set. Stress due to lack of water will reduce the quality and yield, and ultimately shorten the life of the plant. The soil type and rainfall will determine how frequently you need to water; clay soils hold water and will need to be watered less frequently than sandy soils. Soil around the roots needs to be always moist.  During the growing period if rain has not been regular you will need to water. Train the roots to go deep by a slow deep soak once a week. During extreme heat period you may need to water every 2 or 3 days depending on the conditions. Check first  Check the soil to determine whether to water or not by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is damp, do not water. If there is no moisture at all, then water  Creating trenches to water in can help channel water to reach the roots  Do NOT overhead water as this will encourage fungal or bacterial diseases Feeding With good soil preparation the plants should be fine to grow for a while before applying the first lot of fertiliser.  Hold back from fertilising until the first flowers appear, and then sprinkle sulphate of potash (3 tablespoon and water in, repeat each month during growing season) around the base of each plant to encourage the flowers set into fruit.  We add 1 teaspoon of granule sulphate of potash and water it in at the 1st flowers and 1st fruiting and continue as new flowers and fruit develop.  Nitrogen is good for initial leaf growth, but if too much is used it will prevent good fruit set. A fertiliser higher in potash commonly called ‘for fruiting and flowering’ such as Neutrog’s “Gyganic” or “Sudden Impact for Roses” is better as it encourages flowering and fruiting. Or use pelletised chicken manure or compost and sulphate of potash as described above.  Over the life of the plant it should be fed at least 2 or 3 times to ensure adequate growth and development. Look at the leaves of the plant, if they are yellowing or fading, or if the tips are black or purple the plant needs fertilising. Place fertiliser in the trench. Plants that are overfed are very lush green and soft and are susceptible to wind and insect damage.  Plants lacking in calcium (often due to inadequate watering or too much nitrogen) are susceptible to getting blossom end rot. Many of the liquid tomato foods (like Phostragen) contain added calcium. The calcium needs to be added before planting – it’s too late if the problem occurs.  Consider liquid fertilising approximately once every three weeks. Fish emulsion/Seaweed extracts gives them a good boost. Feed them early in the morning 7 am, not in the heat of the day. Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 6 of 10 Img:http://forums.gardenweb.com/ discussions/1887577/container-tomatoes Pruning Reasons to prune are based on reducing fungal infections and directing the growth of the plant so that it is easy to harvest and manage. To reduce fungal infections increase the airflow by clearing away the leaves from the base of the plant. Heavy pruning is usually unnecessary, and can reduce growth and yields. Be aware that too much pruning can lead to scalded fruit in hot spells, so you may need to provide shade during very hot weather.  Pruning from the soil up to about 12"" or 25 cm so that no leaves are touching the ground will avoid disease transmitting from the soil to the plant  The taller growing indeterminate types can be influenced in how they grow by pruning and pinching them out. Do think about how you are going to grow these varieties and place stakes and trellising supports early for their eventual shape. Pinch off the soft shoots (apart from the tip shoots) that grow from the leaf junctions  If you wanted to grow a tall plant up a pergola pole you may only want the one main leader (the main leader is at the top of the plant). The second strongest leader is the next one, below the first flower truss. The less leaders the slightly bigger your fruit may get Side shoots The side-shoot or suckers are new growths between the stem and the shade leaf. Don’t remove the shade leaves, as they protect the plant. Pinch the side-shoot out if it is only a couple of cms in size. If it is bigger, cut it off with a scalpel type knife so as not too open up a messy wound which could become a disease entry point. Prune side shooting laterals and lower shooting stems as the plants grow. This will need to be done nearly daily once your plants take off! The determinate varieties (often busher, shorter growing varieties) don’t need any pinching – ever as their growth structure is already determined. Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 7 of 10 Shelter in extreme heat Tomatoes can become sunburnt when they are exposed in extreme heat and it ruins the fruit. The burnt section appears as a white to greyish sunken area on the skin of the fruits. To prevent this train the plant and manage pests and diseases to ensure good foliage cover, and shade them in hot weather. The late afternoon sun is most damaging. In extreme heat (38 C+), use 50/50 shade cloth. Make sure the shade cloth does not touch the plant, nor can be blown into it on windy days as this will damage the leaves. Also, ensure enough air flow and access. Mulching As the weather becomes hotter increasing apply a mulch of straw, pea straw around. According to Peter Cundall, if you spread a thick mulch of straw enriched with rotted sheep or cow manure around each plant, pressing it against the lower stems and watered in, it will not only keep the soils moist and temperature lower, it also will stimulate new root growth into the decomposing straw mix and result in bigger yields. Harvesting For the best flavour, ripe fruit is best so leave it on the bush until ready to use where possible. Semi-ripe fruit can be harvested and will ripen (but not in the refrigerator). Tomatoes are better NOT stored in the fridge. Selecting different varieties to grow will extend your harvest season. If you leave fruit on the bush and don’t water enough, heavy rain can cause the fruit to split. Pest and disease control Tomatoes are prone to suffering from a vast array of pest and disease. Early intervention is important to prevent them from spreading. Continually check for pest and diseases and treat accordingly. Good gardening hygiene measures to help prevent the spread of diseases. We apply a regular dusting of tomato dust on the leaves to control caterpillars being careful not to dust the flowers as this can kill bees. Also sprinkle a light dusting to the soil around the stem, prune the lower leaves so none contact the soil to prevent fungal infections from the soil. Maintaining good airflow through the plants, and never overhead water will also prevent fungal infections. A diseased plant can still keep on producing if you cut off and dispose of the diseased leaves (put them in the green bin, not your home compost). We remove diseased leaves weekly. Don’t compost infected plants and fruit. Insects can be controlled by sticky traps The list of pest and diseases is long and an internet search or consulting a few books from the library will be informative. Common diseases and pest include: Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 8 of 10 Pest and disease control continued Tomato russet mite. Usually after the first period of hot weather it can wipe out previously healthy plants. Leaves become dull brown and papery, dying from the bottom up, which exposes fruit to sunburn. They live on back of leaves are about .25mm, cream, and toredo shaped. They love dry. dusty conditions s apply some mulch to the soil. Squirt off with water in morning. If severe in early morning spray with Wettable sulphur rate of 1teaspoon spray per litre onto front and back for leaves, or miticide or horticultural oil (which you can’t use in hot weather), or insecticide soap spray such as natrasoap. Nematode Root nematode will cause plants wilt. To control drench soil with 1lt molasses mixed in 4L of water over 3 m square. Look for swelling on the roots of a dead plant to confirm. Bacterial Wilt Plants will wilt and there is no cure. To test slice s stem lengthwise if the centre is white it is OK, if it’s brown then its infected. Fungal problems Prevent by practicing crop rotation, pruning to reduce air flow; water the base of the plant not the foliage. Only water when plant needs as over watering increases fungal problems. Blossom end rot Fruit goes rotten on the bottom where flower was caused by lack of calcium. Irregular watering can also cause- water as plants need and prevent water stress. Fruit Split Caused by excessive water. If heavy rainfall is forecast you may wish to pick crop early. Sunburn White patches on the upper surfaces. Use shades and be careful not to prune off all the leaves! Aphids – tomato dust and spray Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 9 of 10 Growing tomatoes in pots Pots Choose pots with good drainage holes. They should have them on the side, and on the bottom. Many terracotta pots have only one hole, flush to the ground. These pots should be at least raised slightly, raising the hole off the ground. The size of pot depends on the variety. Tall growers need large tubs. Smaller sized tomatoes e.g. Floriana’s San Marzano can go in much smaller pots (as small as 25cm diameter. If you go too small, the plant will forever dry out. Deep saucers are extremely handy, particularly if you go away for a few days. They also save water. The trick is to let the plant use all the water, rather than continually topping them up, which can give the plants ‘wet feet’ (lack of oxygen to roots, often resulting in poor growth). Soils Garden soil in pots can also cause ‘wet feet’. The fine granules in garden soil are so small, that they compact down in the pot causing poor drainage. A good potting mix has both large and small chunks of pine-bark, allowing more air around the roots. Like most things in life, you pay for what you get – expect poor performance from a $3.00 potting mix and $10.00 plus for a top of the line with all the extras. No other fertilisers or manures should need to be added initially. Staking Staking is something to think about now. The more support, the better. Some of the bush types, like Tumbler or San Marzano, can simply be left to cascade over the pot. Taller growers will appreciate wire frames, tee-pee like sticks, stakes, or by growing the pot near a fence or verandah pole. Plants in pots may need to be fed more often. Look at the leaves of the plant. If they are yellowing or fading, or if the tips are black or purple, then the plants are hungry. They have that hard look. They are lacking in nutrients and will gradually become weaker. An overfed plant is very lush green and soft – this plant would be susceptible to wind and insect damage. Watering Check the soil regularly and don’t let it dry out. Don’t water a small amount, instead when the soil is dry water enough so that the water drains through the bottom holes and then repeat to saturate the soil. Tomatoes don’t like ’wet feet’ so we don’t recommend placing saucers under the bottom of the pots as the lack of oxygen to roots, often resulting in poor growth. Growing tomatoes Pack D Notes 7 16/12/2020 10 of 10 Growing tomatoes from seed If are collecting you own seed makes sure you are using non-hybrid seeds.  Sow them in late July and keep seedlings in a warm spot, a window sill is good but move them away during the cold nights. The ideal soil temperature is 25◦C  Containers - jiffy pots, plastic punnets, paper cups, milk cartons (cut in half). All containers must have drainage holes  Fill containers with seed raising mix or good potting soil and cover seeds with coir, leaving about 1cm from top for watering. Do NOT use regular potting mix or garden soil  Plant 1-3 seeds in each pot  Water with fine spray, cover with cut-off plastic bottles. No NOT over water  When the young seedling emerge make sure they are in a bright light spot otherwise they will be ‘leggy’  When seedlings are about 3-5 cm high and have developed the second pair of leaves, transplant to a pot. Add a pinch of sulphate of potash  Plants need to be hardened up by putting the pots out into a similar position to where they will be growing during the day, but taken back to their previous situation at night before planting out into beds  Mulch the bed well, keeping the mulch away from the stem  Tomato plants do not like cigarette smoke so smokers need very clean hands before touching plants  Basil is a good companion plant for tomatoes  Over-watering may cause weak seedling Complied by David Clayton, Shannan Davis, Lyn Hancock and Leslie Wightman for Grow Your Own Food Workshops, August 2015 updated By Shannan Davis, October 2020 http://www.graphicgardener.com/gardenblog/2011/03/t omatoes-seeds-and/", "TOMATO PLANTING GUIDE Kenya Highland Seed Company LTD has an outstanding portfolio of selected determinate (Open Pollinated Varieties and Hybrid tomato varieties) that are segmented to perform well across different regions. Our Indeterminate varieties have the ability to perform well in the open field and under greenhouse units. Nursery Establishment o The plot should be well prepared by digging and mixing the soil with well decomposed farmyard manure. o Poultry manure is not advisable to be used at the nursery level due to high nitrogen levels that inhibit proper seedling establishment. o Drench the nursery bed with an insecticide and fungicide to prevent early attacks from soil borne pests and any fungal disease. o For ease of nursery management practices such as weeding and irrigation, ensure the nursery bed is 1m wide and of a conventional length. o Make shallow drills of 2cm - 3cm depth at a spacing of 10cm – 20cm apart. Thinly sow the seeds and cover them lightly using soil or well decomposed and fine farmyard manure. o Irrigate the nursery bed frequently in the morning hours maintaining damp and not wet conditions. o Seedlings are ready for transplanting in 3-4weeks time. Allow some extra days for seedlings to harden. This ensures reduced transplanting shock. o Alternatively, the seeds can be sowed using seeding trays with appropriate propagation media such as Peat moss and Cocopeat. LAND PREPARATION o Tomatoes require well – drained deep fertile soils with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 for optimal growth. However, most of the soils in Kenya are nutrient poor which in turn makes it difficult for farmers to achieve good yields. o It is advisable for farmers to implement good soil management practices such as crop rotation and fertilizer application as per the recommendations from a soil test analysis. TRANSPLANTING o Tomato seedlings are ready for transplanting 3-4weeks from sowing. The nursery bed should be watered for ease uprooting the seedlings and transplanting in the evening hours to minimize risk of transplanting shock that arises from excessive evapotranspiration leading to permanent wilting which in turn makes the young seedlings dry up. o Spacing depends on the variety grown and irrigation system used. For determinate (bush varieties) 60cm by 60cm or 75cm by 75cm is recommended and indeterminate varieties 60cm by 45cm. o Furrow irrigation is an effective way for minimizing risks brought about by fungal diseases such as early blight. On the other hand, drip irrigation is efficient in water utilization. o Overhead irrigation is not recommended to Solanaceous crops as this encourages spread of fungal diseases due to leaf wetness in which the pathogen spores landing on the host plant, an irrigation event allows the infection process to begin. As the disease progresses, overhead irrigation can splash the pathogens (spores) from infected plants to healthy plants leading to further disease spread. NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENT o During transplanting, it is important to have the planting holes mixed with well decomposed manure and a basal fertilizer rich in Phosphorous for proper root development such as D.A.P or N.P.K. o Top dressing should be carried out 3weeks after transplanting with a basal fertilizer rich in Nitrogen and a second application carried out 2-3weeks from the first top-dress. o At the onset of flowering, top dress using a balanced N.P.K and repeat after harvesting to replenish nutrients lost through the harvesting process. o Foliar fertilizers can be applied to substitute basal fertilizers applied especially during periods of high stress such as hot periods that can hinder nutrient uptake such as Calcium. TOMATO SUPPORT SYSTEM o Staking tomatoes should be done when the plants are still young to avoid stem damage by breaking which can in turn act as a secondary entry point of pathogens. o It is not advisable to prune determinate (bush) varieties as this side shoots contribute to the overall yield by holding more fruits. o Indeterminate varieties are pruned and this involves removal of extra flowers, side shoots and diseased leaves. o Under good agronomic practices, determinate varieties can be harvested for a period of up to 3months while indeterminate varieties can be harvested for a period of over 6months. ", " COMPREHENSIVE TOMATO FARMING GUIDE 2 | P a g e Introduction In the recent past demand for tomatoes in the region has increased tremendously. This demand can only be met by increasing production area and yield. Better production methods, high-yielding and disease-resistant varieties will play a key role keeping up with the market demand. Growing requirements Tomatoes thrive in well-drained, deep, uniform clay or silty loams. They are very sensitive to water logged soils and prefer a soil pH of between 6.0 -7.5. They do best in temperatures of between 20°C – 27°C. Tomato production can be adversely affected when the temperatures get below 10°C or exceed 30°C, as fruit setting is affected. When choosing the field ensure tomatoes or a related crop (Solanaceous family) has not been planted in the field for at least 2 years to avoid high diseases presence in the soil. Choosing a variety The various tomato varieties that are available possess different benefits which include high yields, resistance to diseases and long shelf-life. It is up to growers to choose those that will meet needs and are also suited to climate where they are to be grown. No single variety will combine all the best features. Common Tomato varieties in Kenya VARIETY COMPANY OPENDOOR/GREENHOUSE Assila F1 Monsanto Hybrid Opendoor Eden F1 Monsanto Hybrid Opendoor Milele F1 Freshco Hybrid Opendoor Africa Revolution F1 George Holland Hybrid Opendoor Rambo F1 Royal seeds Hybrid Opendoor Kilele F1 Syngenta Hybrid Opendoor Shanty Improved Amiran Hybrid Opendoor Star 9065 Stark Ayres Hybrid Opendoor Commando F1 Continental seeds Hybrid Opendoor Eva F1 Amiran Greenhouse Steve F1 Continental seeds Greenhouse Tylka F1 Syngenta Greenhouse Anna F1 Monsanto Greenhouse Corazon F1 Amiran Greenhouse Bravo F1 Royal seeds Greenhouse Chonto F1 Royal seeds Greenhouse Prostar F1 Simlaw seeds Greenhouse Consider the following when choosing a variety Resistance to Diseases: Farmers need to select varieties that are resistant to diseases. Varieties that are resistant to Verticillium wilt (Vd), Fusarium wilt (Fol), Fusarium Crown and Root Rot (Fol) Nematodes (N), Alternaria solani (As) and Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) 3 | P a g e Shelf life: The variety must guarantee that the fruit will remain fresh through the chain and especially during transportation. Hybrids: Compared to open pollinated varieties (OPVs), hybrids produce higher yields, uniform fruits and possess other preferred quality attributes such as disease resistance and pest tolerance. It is better for the farmer to spend a little more money for Hybrid (F1) seeds but be assured of optimal production. Nursery Establishment Because of the small nature of tomato seeds, the seedlings are first raised in the nursery then transplanted into the main field. Though some farmers carry out direct planting, it is usually difficult to maintain planting depth as well as moisture levels, leading to poor germination. In the nurseries proper care of the seedling is made possible avoiding the harsh environmental conditions that the seedlings might face if directly seeded. Seed beds also help the farmer ensure that only healthy and strong seedlings are transplanted; translating to better and uniform plants and high production. Another plus for nursery beds is that less seeds are used -80-100gms/acre for the Nursery, compared to 250-500gms/acre for direct seeding. Location: The nursery should be located in a flat area that is secure and accessible, to allow close monitoring. It should be established near a source of clean usable water and on well-drained soils. The area should be exposed to the sun, well-aerated, protected from strong winds and strategically located to avoid exposure to pests. Sowing lines: Seeds should be sown at a 1cm depth marked with a finger, with 10-15 cm spacing between the sowing lines. Keep the nursery well irrigated and free of weeds; loosen soil to allow water percolation. Transplanting Proper field preparation is essential for optimum performance. Recommended spacing for transplanting is 60cm by 60cm. The seedlings are hardened before transplanting by reducing water application and directly exposing them to sunlight 6-9 days before transplanting. This is done to prepare them for the harsh environment they will face in the main field. A good seedling that is ready for transplanting is usually in its fourth or sixth leaf stage (about 4 weeks old) and is vigorous and stocky. Thoroughly water the seedlings about 12 hours before transplanting to the field. Transplanting late in the evening is recommended to allow the seedling longer cooler hours to increase chances of survival. Irrigation Tomatoes must be regularly watered especially during critical periods like flower-setting and growth of the fruits. Watering should be reduced towards the end of a crop. Excess moisture on the leaves can lead to diseases especially early blight. Weed management Depending on the type of weeds and growth stage of both the weeds and the crop, appropriate control measures can be adopted. Manual weeding can be done on small fields but use of herbicides can be considered in extensive farming. 4 | P a g e Plant Nutrition To optimize performance, soil nutrition amendment is necessary. It is a requirement that farmers do a soil analysis which will serve as a base for coming up with a fertilizer program. Apply farmyard manure at a rate of 8 tonnes per acre during land preparation to improve soil structure. A guideline to fertilizer application will include: • Basal application of Phosphorus during the early stages for root and shoot development. This can be applied before transplanting. • Top dressing with Nitrogen based fertilizers such as Urea and CAN for vegetative growth. • During flowering and fruit formation use of compound fertilizers (NPK) is recommended. Plants require the three primary nutrients; Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium at various levels; fertilizer with high K (Potassium) in formulation will give best results. • Weekly application of foliar feeds (can be mixed with pesticide sprays) can also foster better plant development. • Magnesium and Calcium fertilizers can be applied to ensure better fruit development but also when symptoms of blossom end rot manifest. Staking and pruning This is done to reduce excess canopy as well as to get rid of old leaves which contribute to high moisture accumulation leading to increased disease incidences. This can be done using sticks and strings to give the plant an upright growth. Advantages of staking Increase in the percentage of marketable fruit, easier harvesting and reduced injury to both plants and fruit in harvesting. A farmer may opt not to stake but it’s highly recommended Management of pest and diseases Major tomato pests include white flies, aphids, thrips, and bollworm. Whiteflies are known to transmit Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus(TYLCV). While major tomato diseases comprise the blights, wilts and rots. Pest and diseases remain the greatest challenge in Tomato production. The general principles in pest and disease management include: Disease prevention Preventing problems is usually easier than curing them. So, here are ten strategies to help prevent diseases and other problems: 1. Although many heirloom varieties have better flavor than newer varieties, they lack disease resistance. Purchasing disease resistant cultivars can help, but keep in mind that disease resistance does not mean immunity. Preventive strategies are still important. 2. Disinfect tools, tomato cages and stakes with a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water. 5 | P a g e 3. Rotate the planting location every three to five years. 4. Do not plant in cold soils. This weakens plants making them more susceptible to diseases and may stunt them permanently. 5. Do not crowd tomatoes. Good air circulation around plants is vital in keeping the foliage dry and preventing diseases. 6. Remove lower branches, leaving the stem bare up to the first set of flowers and then mulch (straw is a good choice). Many fungal diseases are in the soil or in bits of plant material left over from previous years. When it rains, fungal spores splash up onto the lower leaves, infecting them. The next time it rains, the spores from the infected leaves splash up onto the next set leaves. Unchecked the infection will spread all the way to the top of the plant. 7. Water in the morning to give the foliage time to dry out before nightfall. 8. Remove any diseased looking leaves as soon as possible. 9. If a spray program becomes necessary, use a fungicide (such as, chlorothalonil) alternated with a copper based fungicide to help with bacterial diseases because even an expert can have difficulty distinguishing between fungal diseases and bacterial diseases. 10. At the end of every growing season, remove as much of the plant as possible from the garden and do not compost. DISEASES Late blight Late blight is a very destructive and very infectious disease that affects tomato and potato (not sweet potato). It is the same disease that led to the Irish Potato Famine in the 1840s. It is caused by the fungal-like pathogen, Phytophthora infestans. It is prevalent during the rainy season and when there is excess moisture or humidity What are its symptoms? Lesions develop on leaves and stems as dark, water-soaked spots. These spots enlarge until the entire leaf or stem turns brown and dies. Dead leaves typically remain attached to stems. The undersides of the lesions may be covered with a white fuzzy growth that contains the spores of the pathogen. On the stems, late blight lesions appear brown to almost black. Infected tomato fruits develop shiny, 6 | P a g e dark or olive-colored lesions which may cover large areas and in particular the upper half of the fruit. How is it different from other diseases with almost similar symptoms? When diagnosing for late blight examine all parts of the affected plants thoroughly. The late blight pathogen produces most of its spores at night and as a result it is more visible in the morning and these calls for scouting early in the day for the disease. Generally Late blight can affect all parts of the plant whereas some of the ‘imitators’ cannot. Below are some of the diseases that portray symptoms most similar to LB and how they differ from the latter: 1. Gray mold - This is the disease most commonly confused for late blight because the pathogen causes large leaf spots, stem lesions, and affects fruits. These symptoms are often associated with dead plant tissue (flowers, leaves). The pathogen typically needs to become established on these dead tissues before it can attack living plant tissue. Affected fruit are soft and are not brown. The pathogen growth is fuzzier and gray to brownish, not white as with late blight. 2. Early Blight - Leaf, stem and fruit spots are all smaller than those for late blight and often have a characteristic concentric ring pattern or target-shape appearance. 3. Septoria Leaf Spot - Leaf and stem spots are all much smaller in comparison to those for late blight and often have a characteristic tan center. Fruits are not affected. 7 | P a g e 4. Buckeye Fruit Rot - Fruit turns brown with white spores forming when moist. Unlike late blight, buckeye fruit rot is most likely on fruit on or near the soil where the pathogen can survive between crops, the fruit stays firm and smooth (not rough) and leaves and stems are not affected. Causal pathogens are closely related to late blight, but don’t travel far or fast because their spores move by splashing water and soil, rather than air. 5. Drought Stress - When plants’ roots cannot deliver enough water to leaves, large sections of leaf tissue can die. In contrast with late blight lesions, symptoms of drought stress always extend from the leaf edge, they lack a border of wilted tissue, and there is no fuzzy pathogen growth. Also, no symptoms develop on stems or fruit. What can you do about it? • Start with disease-free tomato seedlings. • Scout daily in the morning hours for any symptoms on the crop. • Rotate tomato fields with non-solanaceous crops. Crop rotation is for the early blight and Septoria leaf spot diseases which are an annual problem, not late blight. The late blight organism requires living tissue to survive; it does not survive in the soil or carry in tomato seed. • Control tomato volunteer plants as well as solanaceous weeds such as hairy nightshade. • When late blight is found in small, localized areas, promptly destroy all symptomatic plants plus a border of healthy appearing plants to prevent disease spread. • Apply late blight specific fungicides in affected fields and nearby fields on a regular basis until tomato harvest is complete. Shorten spray interval when disease pressure is high or environmental conditions remain favourable for the late blight pathogen (cool and wet). • Alternate fungicide applications among different chemical classes; include a contact (protectant) fungicide in each application (chlorothalonil, mancozeb, or copper). Addition of a protectant fungicide enhances resistance management and fungicide effectiveness; e.g. copper oxychloride, Mancozeb+cymoxanil or propineb+cymoxanil or Metalaxyl+Mancozeb 8 | P a g e • Good fungicide coverage is necessary. • Work in affected field last and clean equipment between fields. • Disk under the field or kill with herbicide after harvest is complete. Tomato yellow leaf curl Tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV) is a viral disease transmitted by whiteflies; it is one of the most damaging diseases in tomatoes. TYLCV is the most significant tomato virus in areas where whitefly is a big problem. The disease incidence is higher particularly when temperatures are high. Locally, it is known as: Gathuri or ngumi Symptoms • Plants are severely stunted with shoots becoming erect Leaf symptoms include; • Small leaves which are cupped, thick and rubbery. Tops of infected plants may look like a head of broccoli. • Leaflets are reduced in size and puckered • Leaflets that develop soon after infection curl downwards at the margins; leaves produced later curl upwards, become distorted, and have prominent yellowing along margins and/or intervenal regions • Flowers wither • Plants will set very few fruit after infection occurs; when older tomato plants are infected, they produce abnormal growth above the point of infection. Any fruit already on the plant ripens almost normally, but flowers often drop or fail to set fruit. The appearance of the fruit is unaffected Conditions for Disease Development • The virus is not seed-borne. It is only transmitted by the whitefly, Bemisia tabaci • The whitefly vector has a very wide host range but it usually does not cause symptoms in these hosts. Most solanaceous plants such as tomato, eggplant, potato, tobacco, and pepper can be infected with TYLCV but remain healthy in appearance. Common bean is also a host and will sometimes display leaf curl symptoms when infected. Many common weeds are also host to the virus and may or may not develop symptoms when infected. • Hot and dry conditions favor the whitefly, and therefore aid the spread of TYLCV. Whitefly populations decrease after heavy rain showers. 9 | P a g e Management 1. Use resistant varieties: Hybrid Tomato Assila from Monsanto is resistant to Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) 2. Under stress, however, these resistant varieties can lose their protection and develop symptoms of tomato yellow leaf curl. As such, it is important to keep plants healthy by proper irrigation and fertilizer regimes and to keep them free of other pests and diseases. 3. Grow seedlings in an insect-proof net house or in a greenhouse, and maintain good control of whiteflies in these structures in order to prevent early infection of seedlings by whitefly feeding. If non insect-proof nets are used in seedling nurseries, then they should be sprayed with insecticides to control entry of whitefly into the structures. 4. The whitefly vector favors younger plants. To reduce this effect, tomato plants should be about 30 days old at the time of transplanting. 5. Timing of transplanting can also be effective in avoiding high populations of whitefly and therefore reducing or high populations of whitefly and therefore reducing or preventing TYLCV infection. Separate plantings of tomatoes in time and space from plantings of crop hosts which are good sources of whiteflies (i.e. cabbage, cucurbits, potato) 6. Avoid overlapping tomato crops that allow the vector to subsist and develop new populations. Pulling out volunteer tomato and tobacco plants and weed control are also important in reducing sources of virus inoculums. 7. Plant new tomato crops in isolated fields. If possible, plant a tall border crop, such as maize, around the tomato crop. 8. Chemical control methods include the application of systemic insecticides as soil drenches or regular sprays during the seedling stage to reduce the population of the whitefly vector. A second application may be necessary to control adults that have emerged from the egg and nymph stage since the application of the first spray. Rotation of insecticides may be necessary to prevent the development of resistance in the vector. However, chemical control may not be effective in areas where disease incidence is high 9. Symptomatic plants should immediately be carefully removed, bagged, and discarded to prevent the spread of whiteflies on them that may be carrying the virus. Cover plant in plastic bag and tie at the stem at soil line. Cut off the plant below the bag and allow bag with plant and whiteflies to desiccate to death on the soil surface for 1-2 days prior to placing the plant in the trash. Do not cut the plant off or pull it out of the garden and toss it on the compost! The goal is to remove the plant reservoir of virus from the garden and to trap the existing virus-bearing whiteflies so they do not disperse onto other tomatoes. Buckeye fruit & root rot Symptoms On fruit: Brown spots appear on green and ripe fruit, often at the blossom end. The spots have bands of dark and light brown rings. A white cottony fungal growth appears under moist conditions. Young green 10 | P a g e fruit, when infected, usually become mummified. Fruit touching or near the soil are most likely to become infected On Root: Phytophthora can cause a root and crown rot of tomato plants at all ages. Damping-off symptoms occur on seedlings while infections of the roots and crowns of young plants cause rapid wilt. On established plants, brown water-soaked lesions appear on roots, extending into the lower part of the stem. Severely affected roots become necrotic and decayed. The leaves become bronze and later dieback from the tip. On Stem The canker that develops is pale green to brown and may extend more than 15 cm. The canker girdles the stem and causes wilting and death Doses: 1. Thiophanate methyl 2. Carbendazim Alternaria stem canker It appears on stems, leaves, and fruit .Dark brown to black cankers with concentric zonation occur on stems near the soil line or above ground. Canker enlarge girdle the stem, and kills the plant. Dark brown to black areas of dead tissues between leaf veins are caused by a toxin produced by the fungus. Dark brown sunken lesions with characteristic concentric rings develop on green fruit 11 | P a g e Doses: 1. Copper fungicides 2. Carbendazim Gray mold Foliage of plants from seedlings to mature plant stage is affected. Brown to black specks appear on both the young and older leaves. The lesions expand slowly into 1- to 2-mm-diameter round spots that remain brown or develop a gray center surrounded by a yellow area. Early blight (Alternaria solani) In tomatoes, it causes stem cankers on seedlings and small irregular dark brown spots on the older leaves leading in partial defoliation of the crop. The fungus survives on the crop debris. Infections begin as small brown spots on older leaves that quickly enlarge. The lesions develop a ""bulls-eye"" pattern of concentric rings that can be seen .Fusarium &verticillum wilt 12 | P a g e Both of these fungal diseases are soil-born. Fusarium often causes yellowing on one side of the plant or leaf. Yellowing begins with the older, bottom leaves, followed by wilting, browning, and defoliation. Growth is typically stunted, and little or no fruit develops. Brown, vascular tissue can be found when the infected stem is cut at its base. Infected plants often die before maturing. Verticillium is less common, usually occurring late in the season when soils are cooler. It begins as a v-shaped blotch on lower leaves, followed by browning veins and dead, chocolate brown blotches. It spreads up the plant. Discoloration of the vascular tissue is limited to the bottom 12 inches of the stem. Look for tomatoes with the resistance letters VF on the plant tag or seed packet, indicating resistance to both verticillium and fusarium wilt. Lookalikes: all the leaf spot diseases and “bottom-up” diseases Bacterial cankers (Clavibacter michiganensis) The symptoms of bacterial canker are brown leaf margins with a yellow border next to the inner green leaf tissue, spreading between the veins (top image). It often affects only one side of a plant. As plants wilt, yellowing leaves usually remain attached to the plant. Unlike the leaves, the petioles remain green. The vascular system shows a yellowish brown discoloration (bottom image). This is a serious infectious disease with no cure and no resistant varieties available. It will kill the plant and is highly infectious, easily spreading to other plants. Infected plants should be removed from the garden immediately and extensive measures implemented for disinfection. Lookalikes: other foliar diseases, particularly fusarium wilt, viruses Bacterial wilt (Pseudomonas solanacearum) 13 | P a g e The disease causes wilting of tomatoes and potatoes. In tomatoes it is mainly seed borne. Control: Control is mainly cultural as: - Strict crop rotation, Removal and burning infected plant debris & Planting certified seed. Damping off Affected plants usually occur in patches in nursery beds or in low parts of sloped fields. In preemergence damping off, the seeds fail to emerge after sowing. They become soft, mushy, turn brown, and decompose as a consequence of seed infection. In post-emergence damping-off, the seedling emerges from the soil but dies shortly afterwards. Septoria leaf spots Septoria leaf spot usually appears on the lower leaves after the first fruit sets. Spots are circular, about one-sixteenth to one-fourth inch in diameter with dark brown margins and tan to gray centers with small black fruiting structures. Characteristically, there are many spots per leaf; they do not 14 | P a g e look target-like. This disease spreads upwards from oldest to youngest growth. If leaf lesions are numerous, the leaves turn slightly yellow, then brown, and then wither. Fruit infection is rare. Lookalikes: bacterial leaf spot and speck (no tan centers); and other diseases that progress from the bottom up Powdery mildew Leaf symptoms consist of yellow blotches or spots on the upper leaf surface. A white powdery growth occurs on the underside of the leaves. This fungus penetrates within the leaf tissue. The older colonies of the fungus may turn a dirty white color with age. The severely affected leaves turn yellow, then brown, and later become shriveled. Generally, the lower leaves are affected first and the disease gradually moves up the plant. Vines may become defoliated under severe infections, leading to lower yields and possible sunburn damage to the fruit. Bacterial spot and speck These are two separate but very similar diseases. Symptoms of bacterial spot are small dark brown to black circular spots, initially water-soaked, coalescing and becoming angular, sometimes with a yellow halo. Symptoms of bacterial speck are tiny, dark brown to black spots with a surrounding yellow halo. Severity of both diseases is increased by wetness of fruit and foliage from sprinklers, rain, or heavy dew. There are some tomato varieties with resistance to bacterial speck but very few with resistance to bacterial spot. 15 | P a g e Lookalikes: Septoria leaf spot (tan centers) Anthracnose DISORDERS Blossom end rot – not a pathological disease, but mainly physiological This is caused by calcium deficiency. The early sign of the disease is a water soaked spot near the blossom end of the fruit. The surface of the spot becomes dark and leathery but no soft rot develops unless bacteria or fungi invade the spot. Other causes are; Too fast growth during the early stages followed by sudden drought, excessive nitrogen and infrequent irrigation. Gray wall sunscald concentric cracking Concentric crack Catfacing 16 | P a g e Catface Radial cracking FRUIT ROTS Gray mold rot Rhizoctonia rot Rhizophus rot Sour rot Pythium fruit rot 17 | P a g e PESTS Root knot nematodes These are galls and swellings on the roots causing stunting of the plants and eventual death. Control: Good agricultural practices and chemical controls are used. Planting nematode free seedling through application of Nematicides Tobacco whitefly Whiteflies are tiny, soft-bodied insects. They are not true flies. They secrete a white waxy substance through special glands on their abdomen. The adults coat their bodies, particularly their wings, with this wax, hence the name “whiteflies.” In their immature stages (nymphs) they also secrete wax in various forms. Damage caused by whiteflies Like aphids, whiteflies have piercing-sucking mouthparts so the damage caused is very similar to that of aphids. Damage to the crop is usually caused by larvae and adult insects that suck the leaftissue and young fruit secreting sticky undigested sap (honeydew) during feeding. It is documented that about 2,000 nymphs can be found on a single leaf; each nymph is capable of producing 20 drops of honey dew in an hour! Sooty moulds grow on the sugary secretions (Cladosporium spp.) hence reducing the photosynthesis area of the leaves and resulting in stunted growth and poor quality produce. Heavy infestations cause decline of plant vigor. Stunting, yellowing of foliage and premature leaf drop are among the symptoms of injury. Feeding by whiteflies can also cause deformed fruit and discoloration of your tomatoes. 18 | P a g e Whitefly adults can also transmit several viruses from diseased to healthy plants including the destructive Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV). If your plant gets infected with a virus, pull it out. Monitoring Check the undersides of leaves regularly with a hand lens to monitor for both adults and nymphs. Look for flying whiteflies regularly by knocking tomato leaves. This is an easy way to monitor adult activity and abundance because they are easily disturbed and will flutter away. Monitoring your populations, especially during hot dry weather will help you decide if or how to manage whitefly problems. Generally, tomatoes (and other plants) can tolerate some whiteflies (up to 10-25 nymphs per leaf) but population explosions (50 and up nymphs per leaf ) can quickly rob you of your tomatoes Whitefly Control Because of the large number of eggs laid by an adult whitefly their population can multiply quickly within a short period of time. Adults mate within 10 to 20 hours of hatching and live between two and three weeks. Control is complicated by the nature of the eggs and the pupae which cannot be killed by contact insecticides as they are covered by waxy substance. To control whiteflies: • Use varieties tolerant or resistant to viruses • Remove Solanaceous plants and weeds which are in the vicinity of the tomato crop. • Rogue diseased plants and destroy by burning. Ploughing infested crop at night and weed management can help to bring the population below threshold levels. • Use of oil sprays (DC-tron) helps discourage spread of whiteflies. • Practice a good crop rotation program. • A maize crop ‘guard row’ can be planted around the tomato field to reduce the ability of whiteflies to reach the crop. • Adult whiteflies can be controlled by overhead irrigation with soapy water (sodium based soaps) • At larval stages system growth regulators such Applaud (buprofezin) can be used • Biological control options. • Perhaps the most common is the use of whiteflies natural predator Encarsia formosa. This parasitic wasp attacks the whitefly by depositing an egg within the host body then, after about 10 days, the parasitized host will turn brown as wasp pupation occurs. After another 10 days the emerging adult wasp will appear and will, in turn, parasitize more whitefliesand Entomopathogenic fungi such as Beuaveria bassiana and Verticillium lecanii. • Effective insecticides for control of whiteflies include Pyrethroids and other contact insecticides.Imidacloprid, Azadirachtin, Dimethoate, Lambda- Cyhalothrin, Deltamethrin, Acephate, 19 | P a g e Pyrethrin and Thiacloprid among others. Farmers MUST adhere to the recommendations on the product label and observe the Pre-Harvest Intervals as advised on the product label. Red spider mites The minute, spider like animals are visible by the naked eye and feed on sap from the underside of the leaves. They cause speckling and tarnishing of the leaves turning yellowish to whitish. The pest has wide host range including wild e.g. sodom apple and cultivated plants such as cassava, maize American boll worm (Heliothes armigera) The caterpillars bore into fruit and feed on the inner of the fruit releasing plenty of excreta which is noticeable. Tuta absoluta 20 | P a g e Hornworm Hornworms are the larval stage (caterpillars) of sphinx moths. They are called hornworms because of the tell-tale horn or spike on their tail end (top image). These caterpillars have voracious appetites and can consume entire leaves and small stems in a short time. Hornworm damage is obvious when the infestation is moderate to heavy because of the large amount of defoliation. Search for the large caterpillars and the large, black droppings on the leaves or ground beneath the plant. Hornworms that are not feeding should be left on the tomato plant. They may have been infected with Bt, an organic pesticide that only attacks caterpillars, or they may have been parasitized (bottom image). The tiny white cocoons sprouting from the hornworm are the pupal cases of tiny wasps that have eaten the hornworm from the inside out. If left alone, the adults will emerge and fly off in search of other caterpillars to parasitize and kill. SOME COMMON PEST AND DISEASE IN TOMATOES 21 | P a g e TABLE OF COMMON PESTS AND DISEASES AND THEIR MANAGEMENT PEST/DISEASE PEST STAGE AFFECTED PART PRODUCTS TO USE Whiteflies Adults Leaves Synthetic pyrethroids,chlorpyrifos,dimethoate,thiocyclam hydrogen oxalate Larvae Leaves Abamectin,thiacloprid Leafminer Adults Leaves imidachloprid,acephate,dimethoate,thiacloprid,azadiracht in Larvae Leaves abamectin,spinosad,cyromazine Tuta absoluta Adults leaves dimethoate,thiocyclam hydrogen oxalate Larvae leaves,fruits chlorantraniliprol,abamectin,emamectin benzoate,flubendiamide Spidermites All stages Leaves&stems synthetic pyrethroids,abamectin Aphids Adults Stems,leaves&flowers lambdacyhalothrin,dimethoate Thrips pupa,adults Flowers&leaves spinosad,lambdacyhalothrin Caterpillars Larvae Leaves&fruits synthetic pyrethroids Nematodes All stages Roots Azadirachtin,othoprophos,metamsodium Late blight leaves&stems Azoxystrobin,mancozeb,propineb,chlorothanonil,metalax yl,copper oxychloride Early blight chlorothalonil,azoxystrobin,mancozeb,metalaxyl Bacterial wilt Copper oxychloride, copper oxide Rootrot Fusarium chlorothalonil,metalaxyl Pythium chlorothalonil,metalaxyl Rhizoctonia chlorothalonil,metalaxyl Powdery mildew Tebuconazole,azoxystrobin,mancozeb,chlorothanonil,met alaxyl Downey mildew Propineb, chlorothalonil,metalaxyl,azoxystrobin,mancozeb Bacterial speck Copper oxychloride, copper oxide Viral infections uproot and control vector 22 | P a g e Harvesting and handling tomatoes Since tomatoes are perishable, proper after-harvest handling is very crucial for maintaining quality and increasing shelf life. Cleaning Tomatoes should be washed in clean water to sufficiently remove dust and foreign material, then wiped dry with a clean soft cloth. To eliminate the problems with disease build-up that normally occur, wash water should not be reused. When washing ensure the wash water is several degrees warmer than the pulp temperature of the tomatoes to avoid drawing water and disease organisms in the fruit Grading During grading of fruits, damaged, rotten and cracked fruits should be removed. Only ", , "Tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum) can be grown throughout the year. You can start harvesting tomato fruits 8 - 9 weeks after transplanting. One tomato plant can yield 4 - 6 kg (10 - 15 lbs.) of fruits. Tomato belongs to the Solanaceae family. Other crops belonging to this family include pepper and melongene. Tomatoes are high in vitamins A and C and lycopene. VARIETIES Some recommended varieties are: Royal Pearl Royal Gold Chandini Dianne Hybrid 61 Akash PREPARATION OF THE GROWING MEDIUM Tomatoes can be planted both in the ground and in containers. They require a well-drained, fertile growing medium. Land preparation If planting in the ground, loosen the soil using a garden fork to encourage drainage and aeration. Remove all stumps and large stones. Make drains to remove excess water from the garden if needed. Too much water in the soil will kill the plants and encourages disease. Container preparation If planting in containers, use a container at least 45 cm (18 inches) by 40 cm (16 inches) and 30 cm (12 inches) deep. Mixed cropping: Tomato can be interplanted with other crops in the home garden. Allow 0.5 m2 (5 feet2) per tomato plant. TRANSPLANTING Transplant healthy seedlings late in the afternoon (3:30 – 4:30 p.m.) when they are 3 - 4 weeks old. Make a hole 10 cm (4 inches) in diameter and 10 cm (4 inches) deep. Prepare the container and the growing medium and transplant your seedlings as described in the home gardening factsheet on “Container Planting”. SPACING Planting tomato seedlings in the ground: Space seedlings 30 cm (12 inches) within rows and 60 to 90 cm (2 - 3 feet) between rows. How To Grow Tomato HG/TT: Ag Ext 97:08 Figure 1: Aerial view of tomato plot showing plant spacing WATERING Water tomato seedlings immediately after transplanting and twice daily, in the absence of rain. Water plants in the morning and early afternoon to prevent fungal problems. A mature tomato plant needs 2 - 3 litres of water daily. Insufficient water will cause flower drop and blossom end rot. FERTILISING Plants need nutrients in the correct proportions for healthy growth and production. Nutrients are usually provided by the growing medium. Use fertilisers to provide additional nutrients as needed. You can use granular, or foliar fertilisers. Method of application If using a granular fertiliser, apply it at the drip circle of the plant. If using a foliar fertiliser, dissolve it in water and apply to the plants’ leaves. Timing of fertiliser application One week after transplanting: Use a complete NPK fertilizer high in phosphorus e.g., 10:40:10 at the manufacturer’s recommended rate. Place one seedling in each planting hole. Pull the mixture around it and press it lightly to hold plant upright and firmly in position. Agricultural limestone is required since most soils in Trinidad are too acidic for tomato. Mix 1/2 cup of limestone and two handfuls of cured (well-rotted) pen manure or compost with the soil that was removed and refill the hole with the mixture. Make a hole just big enough to hold the seedling’s root ball. Figure 3: Planting Hole Figure 2: Dimensions of Figure 5: Planted Seedling ‘planting hole’ Figure 4: Transplanting Repeat once in the 3rd week after transplanting. When new leaves appear (2 - 3 weeks after transplanting): Use a complete NPK fertiliser high in nitrogen e.g. 20:10:10 at the manufacturer’s recommended rate. When flowers form (4 - 6 weeks after transplanting): Use a complete NPK fertiliser high in potassium (e.g. 12:12:17+2) according to manufacturer’s recommendation to promote flowering and fruit development. A tomato plant can continue to flower and fruit for 3 - 4 months. PEST AND DISEASE CONTROL If pests and diseases are left unchecked, they will affect the health of plant and its yield. These problems can be managed using a combination of recommended cultural practices, biological control and use of safe pesticides. This is known as Integrated Pest Management. Use the information provided in the factsheet on “Integrated Pest Management for Home Gardeners” as a guide to controlling pests and diseases in your garden. CULTURAL PRACTICES Prepare the growing medium as recommended. Put in enough drains to remove all excess water from the garden. As far as possible, plant varieties that are resistant to diseases. Practice crop rotation; Don’t plant tomato or any member of the solanaceous family in the same spot continuously. Members of this family include tomato, melongene and pepper. After a crop of tomato, plant a crop from another family such as lettuce or cabbage. Figure 7: Tying plants to stake Figure 6: Individually Staked Tomato plants Practice mixed cropping; Plant different crops within the same plot. For example intercrop tomatoes with lettuce. Remember to leave adequate root room for all plants. Control weeds as soon as you see them throughout the life of the crop. Grow pungent plants such as marigold and basil in the garden to keep away some pests. Stake tomato plants. Tomato stems are weak and grow along the ground. Staking keeps the plant upright and prevents the soft fruits from lying on the dirt. Stakes should be at least 2 metres (6 feet) tall. Plants can be individually staked, or if many are planted together they can be staked in rows. The stakes should be put in when preparing the growing medium at transplanting. BIOLOGICAL CONTROL There are many beneficial insects that can help control pests and diseases that affect tomato. Encouraging helpful insects such as ladybird beetles, spiders and dragonflies can help to reduce pest problems in the garden. PEST CONTROL USING NATURAL PESTICIDES Natural pesticides are recommended for use in the home garden. Use the information provided in the factsheet “Making Natural Pesticides Using Local Materials” as a guide. When staking in rows, insert the stakes next to every fourth plant. Tie the twine from stake to stake on each side, enclosing the plants. Continue tying the plant as it grows. Published and printed by the Extension Training and Information Services Division Ministry of Food Production Trinidad and Tobago July 2005 Revised July 2009 Revised December 2012 “All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted in any form, or by any means reproduced without permission in writing, of the Ministry of Food Production.” Technical content edited by - Roshni Sita Ramsingh Figure 9: Harvesting fruit HARVESTING Harvest fruits when they are mature or ripe. Tomato fruits are ready for harvest when they have changed colour from green to streaks of red, all grooves are filled and they have lost their shine. Do not harvest fruits when they are wet or when it is raining because this can lead to rotting. Harvest the fruit with the stem attached to it. This will encourage continued flowering. Hold the fruit and snap upwards; mature tomatoes will easily separate from the main stem of the plant. Figure 8: Staking plants in row Twine Stake", " Crop Production Guide Asparagus Asparagus is a perennial vegetable crop adapted to temperate climates such as Newfoundland and Labrador. The plant requires a rest period, satisfied in Canada by winter dormancy, and is dioecious, meaning that it produces male or female sexual parts within their flowers. In this way plants can be described as male or female. Growth Requirements Asparagus responds well to a deep, well-draining soil with a light texture profile (sandy loam). Ideally, the soil should contain at least three per cent organic matter and have a pH between 6.0-6.8. Asparagus will not tolerate standing water at the root system so soil needs to drain properly and be free of hard-pans. The soil should also be free of stone and gravel, as these can injure growing stems making them unmarketable. Asparagus will develop a large, proficient root system that can reach 1.5 metres deep at maturity. New plantings should not be placed in fields that have been previously used for asparagus cultivation - two soil born Fusarium diseases can cause serious production problems and as a perennial crop there is no opportunity for crop rotation in an established asparagus stand. Cultivars There are no cultivar recommendations for asparagus in Newfoundland and Labrador. The University of Guelph cultivar “Millennium” and U.S. developed Introduction 1 “Jersey Giant” are the most widely grown cultivars in Ontario and have given superior yields to other cultivars when tested in other parts of Canada. Both cultivars are male-hybrid. Both “Millennium” and “Jersey Giant” are male-hybrid genotypes, in most commercial settings all-male hybrid seed is preferred, to mixed seed as male plants are known produce 20- 25 per cent greater yields than females Nutritional Value Asparagus stems are a good source of vitamins A and C, and potassium. Asparagus is also low in calories with 90g of spear providing 18 kcals. Crop Establishment Seed Germination: Asparagus seed requires a minimum of 10˚C to germinate, however germination success and seedling development are enhanced at temperatures between 15-30˚C. The optimum temperature for asparagus seed germination is 24˚C. Germination may also be enhanced by soaking seedlings in water at 32˚C for three to four days prior to sowing. Soil should be at least 15˚C when sowing asparagus seed. Due to Newfoundland and Labrador’s short growing season it may be advantageous to plant greenhouse grown seedlings or nursery grown asparagus crowns as opposed to direct seeding of asparagus. Asparagus transplants can be started in a greenhouse in middle to late February and transplanted into the field after eight to 12 weeks or when soil has reached an adequate temperature (15˚C). Asparagus crowns are started in nursery beds and left in the ground for one year; plants are dug up in the spring and then replanted as soon as possible. Selection of the best crowns is essential. Damaged, diseased or under sized (less than 25g) crowns should be discarded. Selection of the best asparagus crowns is essential, all damaged, diseased or under sized (less than 25g) crowns should be discarded, this may be up to 40 per cent of the crowns in the nursery beds. Crowns should be planted at a depth of 15-20 cm. Crop Production Guide: Asparagus 2 Seeding/Planting: Permanent field spacing for plants should be at a distance of 1.25-1.75 metres between rows and a spacing of 30-45 cm between plants within the row. Asparagus seed should be planted at a depth of between 2.5-4 cm. Crowns should be placed in a 15- 20 cm deep furrow and covered with 5 cm of soil. Soil should continue to be added through the season, usually during cultivation to control weeds. Crop Management The first two to three years of establishment are critical for the productivity and yield of the mature asparagus stand. During these first couple years young asparagus plantings can suffer from weed competition, inadequate soil moisture and/or soil fertility. It is also highly detrimental to over harvest plants during the first years of establishment. After the last harvest of the season the asparagus bed should be shallowly cultivated to control weeds and incorporate nitrogen fertilizer. Care must be taken to not damage the root system of the asparagus during these activities. The remaining stems will begin to unfurl their frond-like leaves which will photosynthesize and capture energy to recover from the harvest period and store reserves for winter dormancy and regrowth in the spring. While stems are still green they are still connected to the root system of the plant and should not be removed. When the stems turn yellow they can be removed, however the stems tend to catch snow which can help insulate the plant during winter. The stems can be cut and incorporated in the spring before the plant breaks out of dormancy. Incorporation of dead stem tissue can add 10 tonnes of organic matter per hectare. Nutrition All soil fertility recommendation begin with soil analysis. Test soil before any agricultural activities. Recommendations given here refer to results from a soil test using a Mehlich-3 extraction solution. Nitrogen Yearly nitrogen requirement for mature asparagus stand are approximately 110 kg/ha. Generally for mature stands half is applied prior to harvest and then the remainder is applied after last harvest. For new plantings all nitrogen is applied before planting. Asparagus responds well to manure application. Production of asparagus crowns require approximately one half the nitrogen needed for regular production. Phosphorus A mature asparagus stand is unlikely to respond to increases in phosphorus when soil levels are 125 mg/L or greater. As phosphorus is difficult to incorporate into established stands, the optimum time to apply nutrient is at planting. Up to 135 kg/ha of phosphorus should be applied within the trench before planting crowns or transplants. Potassium Although asparagus has a relatively high potassium requirement, the plant is unlikely to respond to applications of potassium when soil levels are 250 mg/L or greater. Micronutrients Asparagus has a high boron requirement and the soils of Newfoundland and Labrador can naturally have suboptimum levels. Asparagus is unlikely to respond to Boron application when soil test levels of 1.5 mg/L or above. Soil nutrient analysis should be consulted before the application of micronutrients. Application For mature asparagus stands fertilizer applications are usually broadcast and incorporated using a light disking. For new plantings, fertilizer, especially phosphorous, should be banded within the row. Climatic Limitations Late spring frost can be damaging to asparagus plants. Generally frost will damage the first flush of stems produced by the plant in the spring, this is unfortunate as this first flush of stems tend to be the largest in terms of both size of the stem and the number of stems. Losses during this early period can cause major reductions in overall yield for the growing season. In addition stems damaged by frost must be removed from the field. Asparagus beds can be protected from frost by covering the beds with black plastic; however the practicality of this activity will depend on how large the asparagus field is. Early fall frost can also cause damage, however this is generally minor in comparison to spring frost issues. Crop Production Guide: Asparagus 3 Wind damage can cause a hooking of the stem, counter intuitively, into the wind. This is caused by reduced growth of the wind exposed tissues. Hooking of the stem does not change the flavor quality of asparagus and hooked stems can still be sold, although sometimes as a lower grade. Pest and Disease Disease: Asparagus rust (Puccinia asparagi) Characteristics: Red/orange lesion develops on leaves and stems. This disease can cause premature defoliation of leaves which results in reduced yields in subsequent years. Control: Monitor for the appearance of the disease so fungicides can be applied before significant buildup of infection and spore production. All infected material should be removed from the field or incorporated into the soil. A trifloxystrobin based fungicide is registered for rust control in asparagus production in Canada. Disease: Fusarium crown and root rot (Fusarium oxysporum f.sp. asparagi) and (Fusarium moniliforme) Characteristics: Rotted and hollow root system (both feeder and storage roots), can be accompanied by a red/ brown discoloration. Above ground parts can appear stunted and/or wilted. F. oxysporum is wide spread in Canada and can be found in most soils. F. moniliforme is capable of infecting both asparagus and corn. Control: It is imperative that new asparagus planting be placed in fields that have not been used for asparagus or corn production within the last five years. Avoid damage to the asparagus roots during cultivation. Fungicides are generally ineffective against this disease; however soil fumigation prior to planting may reduce the population of Fusarium in the soil. Disease: Botrytis blight (Botrytis cinerea) Characteristics: Causes tan lesions with brownish borders, in more advanced cases fuzzy gray spores will be visible. Disease can completely kill newly emerging stems, and is most problematic when high moisture is present either during wet weather or when air is unable to move in the canopy. Control: Botrytis is a common invader of wounded or weakened plant tissues and is also prevalent in storage. Reducing injuries to plants will reduce infection point. Remove and destroy infected tissues to reduce further spread. Trifloxystrobin registered for asparagus rust control will provide some control of Botrytis. Insects: Common asparagus beetle (Crioceris asparagi) and spotted asparagus beetle (Crioceris duodecimpunctata) Characteristics: The most significant damage caused by these two beetles is feeding damage on stems and leaves of asparagus. Defoliation of stems can occur in serious cases, which can cause impacts on the following years yield. Larvae of the spotted asparagus beetle feed within berries, which will decrease seed yield. Crop Production Guide: Asparagus 4 gov.nl.ca Control: The beetles can be trapped by allowing a row or small group of asparagus to produce leaves early in the spring which will attract the mobile adult beetles. When a significant population has infested these plants they can be sprayed. There are currently seven different products registered to control beetles in asparagus production in Canada. Harvest and Handling: Asparagus should not be harvested for the first two years. This gives the plant an establishment period to develop an adequate root system and enough storage reserves to tolerate being harvested in the subsequent years. Stems of asparagus can be harvested from plants after two to three years of establishment, depending on the planting material. No data is available on asparagus yields in the province of Newfoundland and Labrador. In Ontario, yield from three-year-old plants can reach 1000kg/ha; four-year-old plants can yield 2000kg/ ha; yields as high as 3000kg/ha can be produced from mature plants in years five to 15. During the first harvest year (year three) stems should only be harvested for one to two weeks. During year four stems should only be harvested at three to four weeks. At year five and on through maturity of the asparagus stand stems can be harvested for up to seven weeks. Harvest should stop when size/diameter of the stem starts to diminish, as this is a sign that the plant is being over harvested and could have an adverse effect on the following year’s crop. As a rule of thumb harvest should stop when ¾ of the stems have diameters smaller than one cm. Storage: Asparagus stems should be moved to cold storage as soon as possible after the harvest because the quality of the stems will decline rapidly. Store the stems at 2˚C and with 95 per cent relative humidity. Asparagus can be held in storage for between two to four weeks; however quality can decline rapidly if temperature increase or humidity decreases. Crop Production Guide: Asparagus For more info please contact: Crop Development Officer – West James Dawson Ph.D 709.637.2078 jamesdawson@gov.nl.ca Crop Development Officer – East Jane White B.Sc 709.729.6867 janewhite@gov.nl.ca 5", "Easy Gardening Joseph Masabni, Assistant Professor and Extension Horticulturist, The Texas A&M University System asparagus • asparagus • asparagus • aspar -1- Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a highly desirable, early-spring vegetable best suited to the cooler areas of North and West Texas. It can also be grown in areas such as Dallas and Houston. It produces poorly in areas with mild winters and extremely long, hot summers. With proper care and in a suitable climate, an asparagus crown can last 15 to 25 years. Asparagus is good source of vitamin A and C and minerals, and it tastes better when homegrown than when shipped into Texas from other areas. Asparagus is dioecious, meaning that it has separate male and female plants. Grown for its stems or spears, asparagus yields 8 to 10 pounds or more per 100 square feet of bed if tended well. For most home gardeners, a 20-foot row or 100 square feet of bed is adequate for a family of four. That’s equivalent to 20 planted crowns or 10 pounds of harvested asparagus per season. Site selection Because asparagus remains in the same place several years, it is important to select the right spot and prepare the seedbed well. Asparagus does best in full sunlight and deep, well-drained, sandy or light-textured soils. Asparagus plants make a good border around the edge of a garden or along a fence. Soil preparation Before planting, make sure that the soil is free of trash, soil insects, and perennial weeds such as johnsongrass or bermudagrass. Avoid sites where yellow nutsedge grows, as this indicates poor drainage, which is unsuitable for asparagus production. In late fall, spread a 3-inch layer of organic matter such as manure, rotted sawdust, or compost over the beds. Till or spade them to a depth of 10 to 12 inches, EHT-066 5/14 nursery, garden center, or seed catalog. After the asparagus beds are tilled, mark rows 5 feet apart. Dig a furrow 4 inches wide and 4 to 12 inches deep. Separate the crowns by size, and plant those of similar size together for best uniformity in spear size at harvest. Spread super phosphate fertilizer (0- 46-0) as a band in the furrow at a rate of 2.0 pounds per 1,000 square feet or 0.75 ounce per 20-foot row. Place the crowns 12 to 14 inches apart in the furrow. Planting too closely can cause small spears. Wider planting results in larger spears but lower total yield. In loose soils, plant the crowns 6 to 12 inches deep; in heavier soils, plant them 4 to 6 inches deep (Fig. 1). Cover the furrow with 1 inch of compost topped by 2 to 3 inches of soil. Firm the soil around the roots. Over the season, fill the furrows gradually as the shoots grow. This covers small weeds, and they die from lack of light. By the end of the first season, the furrow should reach its normal level (Fig. 1). Control weeds, but do not injure the crowns. If the crowns are planted deeply, you can cultivate the bed with garden tools or tiller (do not till too deep) without damaging the crowns. An alternative planting method is to plant the crowns at the suggested depth and turn the soil to cover all organic matter. Asparagus grows well in high-pH soils and poorly if the soil pH is below 6.0. Test the soil before planting the beds and add lime if needed to adjust the pH to 6.5 to 7.5. Varieties The hybrid asparagus cultivars ‘Martha Washington’, ‘UC 157’, ‘Jersey Giant’, and ‘Mary Washington’ produce better than the standard cultivars. Male asparagus cultivars such as Jersey types (‘Jersey Giant’, ‘Jersey Knight’, and ‘Jersey Supreme’) are more productive and resist disease better than the female cultivars (‘Washington’ types). Also, female cultivars are less vigorous and produce many red, berrylike fruits that become volunteer weeds in the garden. A purple asparagus cultivar (‘Purple Passion’) with green flesh and large spears is available for home gardens. Planting Asparagus is grown from 1- or 2-yearold crowns planted in January or February, or as soon as the ground can be worked. Crowns can also be grown from seeds planted in flats or peat cups. It takes at least a year to grow a good crown. To shorten the period from planting to harvest, buy and plant healthy, vigorous, 1- or 2-year-old crowns from a Figure 1. (a) Planting crown; (b) immediately after planting; (c) several weeks after planting; (d) at the end of the season -2- (a) (b) (c) (d) 4-12” 2-3” Care during the season Asparagus competes poorly with weeds. For asparagus to grow vigorously, weeds must be controlled in the first 1 to 2 years of its establishment. To suppress weeds, spread a 4- to 6-inch-thick layer of organic mulch, such as hay, stray, compost, wood chips, or grass clippings. Asparagus beds require little care after the first 2 years of establishment. Keep weeds pulled or hoed from the beds. To avoid damaging the spears, control weeds early before the spears emerge. Till the soil when fertilizer is applied early in the season before the spears begin growing (Fig. 2). At the end of the harvest season, control weeds by raking lightly or mulching. Apply fertilizer and till lightly 1 to 2 inches deep to kill weeds. Cover the bed with a 3-inch layer of clean straw, compost, or other mulch material. Water it thoroughly, and allow the asparagus to grow the rest of the year. This helps ensure a good harvest the next year (Fig. 3). After the first hard frost or freeze of fall, cut off the fern tops at ground level and mulch the bed with manure. Burn or compost the fern tops to eliminate sources of insect eggs or disease reinfestation. In southern areas, the fern may not be killed -3- and immediately fill in the furrow with soil to its original level. Using this method, you do not need to gradually cover the crowns with soil, as long as the soil is not compacted over the newly planted crowns. It takes 2 to 3 years from the time the crown is planted until the bed is in full production. When conditions are favorable, buds arise from the crown and develop into edible spears. If not harvested, the spears will develop into fernlike stalks. From these stalks, the mature plant manufactures food and stores it in the underground crown. This reserve supplies the energy necessary to produce spears the following year. Fertilizing Before planting a new asparagus bed, broadcast and spade in or incorporate ¼ pound of nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium per 20 feet of row or as directed by a soil test report. For established beds, scatter 2 pounds of 10-20-10 fertilizer (or its equivalent) per 20 feet of row before growth begins in the spring, late January, or early February in most areas of Texas. After the last harvest, apply an additional 1 to 2 pounds per 20 feet of row. If available, use a nitrogen fertilizer such as 21-0-0 at this time. Always water the fertilizer into the soil. Watering Asparagus plants need frequent, deep watering. Water the beds thoroughly, and allow the top 1 inch of soil to dry before watering again. The time varies from 3 to 5 days, depending on soil type and temperature. In sandy soils, asparagus roots can reach 10 feet deep if adequate soil moisture is available. Figure 2. Till the soil early in the season before the spears emerge. Growing the developing buds in the crown, never cut the spear too deep. However, this method is not recommended because the knife may spread diseases from crown to crown. Stop harvesting when the spear diameter becomes less than 3 ⁄8 inch or when the spear heads open up with rising temperatures. Some gardeners prefer white asparagus. This is grown by using mounds of soil or mulch to deprive the spears of light. White asparagus has a milder flavor and is preferred in gourmet cuisine. When the asparagus head barely emerges through the mulch mound, use a knife to cut the spears at the desired height. -4- by a freeze, so it should be removed in late November when the ferns turn yellow. Any spears that sprout may be removed and eaten. A post emergent herbicide such as glyphosate could be used against weeds before asparagus growth begins in early spring. Harvesting Harvest asparagus spears from established beds for about 8 weeks, depending on the area. Do not harvest during the first 2 years after planting. This waiting period enables the underground crown to grow and store enough reserves for a strong harvest for many years to come. Harvest the spears when they are 4 to 10 inches long. To prevent the spears from becoming fibrous, harvest at least every other day. The fibrous condition is caused by overmaturity or inadequate fertility. Spears with loose or opened heads are too mature. To harvest, snap off the spears by hand at ground level. Never snap asparagus spears above the ground or allow a stub to remain. An alternative method is to use a knife to cut the spears 1 to 2 inches below the soil level (Fig. 4). To avoid damage to Figure 4. Some asparagus gardeners harvest by cutting the spears 1 to 2 inches below the ground level. Ground level Figure 3. (a) Remove mulch, fertilize and till; (b) harvest; (c) after last harvest, fertilize and mulch; (d) remove tops and mulch with manure. Late Jan./early Mar. Late Feb./early May April/May After first freeze (a) (b) (c) (d) 10-20-10 21-0-0 Cut tops to ground level prevent the establishment of many asparagus diseases. Common diseases that attack asparagus are crown rot and rusts; they can be controlled with organic chemicals such as sulfur or potassium phosphite. Serving After harvest, asparagus loses quality very rapidly––the sugar content declines and the amount of fibrous material increases. Use spears with compact heads; those with loose heads are fibrous and do not keep well. Asparagus can be stored up to 3 weeks in plastic bags in the refrigerator. For longer storage, blanch the asparagus spears 3 to 5 minutes, package, and freeze them. For information on preserving and serving asparagus, contact the county Extension agent. -5- White asparagus is grown by covering an asparagus row with black plastic supported by wire hoops. The covering is opened on one side for harvest, then placed into position again immediately after harvest. The plastic tunnel structure is removed when the harvest season is over. Culture and pest control of white asparagus are similar to that of green asparagus. Insects The most significant pest of asparagus is the asparagus beetle. Left unchecked, this beetle can greatly damage asparagus in a short period. The beetle overwinters (spends the winter) in crop residue or trash in the garden or in the border. If you see beetles feeding on asparagus, remove them by hand or spray them with Surround (organic insecticide) or Sevin. Diseases If you select a good site with proper drainage and pH, you can reduce if not Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service AgriLifeExtension.tamu.edu More Extension publications can be found at AgriLifeBookstore.org Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, disability, genetic information, or veteran status. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating. Revision Acknowledgments This publication was revised from earlier versions written by Jerry Parsons, Professor and Extension Horticulturist, and Sam Cotner, Professor Emeritus and Extension Horticulturist.", "Agriculture and Natural Resources FSA6002 Craig R. Andersen Associate Professor Arkansas Is Our Campus Visit our web site at: https://www.uaex.uada.edu Asparagus Home Gardening Series Environment Light – sunny Soil – well­drained, deep Fertility – medium­rich pH – 6.0 to 7.0 Temperature – cool Moisture – average Culture Planting – one­year­old crowns, spring Spacing – 18 x 60 inches Hardiness – hardy perennial Fertilizer – medium­rich, summer Asparagus – Asparagus officinalis altilis Asparagus is a native of temperate Europe and western Asia and still grows in a wild state in saline areas. It has been known to and prized by epicures since Roman times. It is widely grown and used throughout Europe and was introduced early into the United States. Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that produces spears each year without replanting. A wellplanned row or bed can last for 20 to 30 years. Therefore, plant asparagus at the side or end of the garden where it is not disturbed by dayto­day gardening activities. Asparagus is one of the earliest vegetables harvested in the spring. Cultural Practices Planting Time Asparagus crowns can be planted as early as the ground can be worked in the spring and as late as June 1. Use one­year­old crowns or plants because it takes one to two years longer to produce asparagus from seed. Purchase the plants from a garden store, nursery or through a seed catalog. The young plants have compact buds in the center (crown) with dangling, pencil­sized storage University of Arkansas, United States Department of Agriculture, and County Governments Cooperating Cultivars Cultivar Days to Maturity Plants/ 100 Ft of Row Disease Resistance or Tolerance Remarks Mary Washington Perennial 50 crowns Rust Good quality. UC157-F2 Perennial 50 crowns Rust, fusarium rot Good quality and yield. Jersey Knight Perennial 50 crowns Rust, fusarium rot All male hybrids, large uniform spears. Jersey Gem Perennial 50 crowns Fusarium, cercospora All male hybrids, large spears, purple bracts. Jersey Giant Perennial 50 crowns Rust, fusarium rot All male hybrid. Purple Passion Perennial 50 crowns Large purple spears turn green when cooked. roots. Thick, firm storage roots indicate a healthy crown. Spacing and Depth of Planting Place the plants in a trench 12 to 18 inches wide and 9 to 12 inches deep. Space the crowns 18 to 24 inches apart. Spread the roots out uniformly with the crowns in an upright, centered position. Cover the crowns with 2 inches of soil. Gradually fill the remaining portion of the trench during the first summer. Asparagus tends to “RISE” as the plants mature; during the winter, many gardeners apply an additional 1 or 2 inches of soil over the rows in later years. Care As asparagus plants grow, they produce a mat of roots horizontally rather than vertically. In the first year, the top growth is spindly. As the plants become older, the stems get larger in diameter. Asparagus plants are dioecious (either male or female). The male plant develops more spears or stems than the female plant, but the stems are smaller in diameter. Gardeners plant both the male and female plants in an approximate ratio of 1:1. Yields are not appreciably different between the sexes. After the first year, small red berries form on the female plants in late summer. Fertilize asparagus the same way as the rest of the garden during the first three years. In spring, apply a complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13 at the rate of 3 to 4 pounds per 100 feet of row and incorporate with cultivation. Starting the fourth year and after, apply the same amount of fertilizer but delay application until after harvest in June or July. Weeds can be a major problem for asparagus. They compete with developing spears and decrease yield and quality. Start frequent, light cultivation in the spring in both young plantings and patches that are being harvested. Harvesting Harvest asparagus in the second year after planting crowns, but do not harvest for more than one month the first time. When the diameter of the spears is less than the size of a pencil, cease harvesting. The plant is still expanding its feeder roots and storage root system, and excessive removal of spears weakens the plant. Starting the fourth year, spears may be harvested from April into June. Harvest spears that are 5 to 8 inches in length by cutting or snapping. To cut a spear, run a knife under the ground where the spear is emerging. Since the spear will be cut below the point of fiber development, snapping the stem is necessary. Cutting may damage some spear tips that have not yet emerged from the ground. To snap a spear, bend it from the top toward the ground. The spear breaks at the point where it is free of fiber. Asparagus deteriorates rapidly after harvest. If it is not eaten immediately, it should be processed or refrigerated. Common Problems Asparagus beetles are common in home plantings. They may be controlled by using a suggested insecticide or by hand picking. disease – rust, fusarium crown rot insects – asparagus beetles, cutworms cultural – weak, spindly plants and/or too few spears caused by harvesting the first year after planting or too heavy a harvest in later years; crown rot or poor production from inadequately prepared, heavy soil Harvesting and Storage days to maturity – 2 to 3 years harvest – third-year spears; snap off just under soil surface when 6 to 8 inches tall, before tips begin to separate; use or refrigerate immediately approximate yields (per 10 feet of row) – 3 to 4 pounds per year amount to raise per person – 6 pounds storage – process or refrigerate immediately in plastic bags preservation – can or freeze Frequently Asked Questions Q. What causes my asparagus to have loose heads? A. When the weather turns hot, the growing point expands rapidly and the bracts (green modified leaves) are spread by the early development of the stems and ferns. Q. Early spring freezes caused asparagus spears in my garden to turn brown and wither. Are they safe to eat? A. Frozen tips should be harvested and thrown away. These spears, although not poisonous, will be off-flavor. Q. Can I start asparagus from seed? A. Yes, you can grow your own plants by planting seeds 1/2 inch deep and 2 inches apart in the row. Start the seed in the spring when the soil temperature has reached 60 degrees F. Dig the plants the following spring and transplant them to the permanent bed as soon as the garden can be worked. Growing your own plants delays the establishment of your bed an additional year. Q. I have just purchased some asparagus plants. How should I plant them? A. Prepare planting bed by digging out unsuitable soil. Replace it with an organic mixture of onethird sand, one-third soil and one-third sphagnum moss, compost or potting soil. Plant the asparagus 18 to 24 inches apart in a trench, with the crowns 9 inches below ground level. Cover the crowns about 2 inches and gradually fill in the trench as the season progresses. Q. When should asparagus plantings be divided? A. Divide asparagus crowns during the late winter after the tops have been removed. The crowns can be divided easily into individual plants for replanting. Q. How long after planting asparagus can I harvest the first spears? A. Wait three years before the first harvest if you plant from seed. If you start from one-year-old crowns, harvest can begin on a limited basis the next year. Harvesting early reduces yield and quality of home-grown asparagus. Q. How long can I harvest asparagus in the spring? A. Generally, harvest should extend four to six weeks from the first harvest in early spring. Stop harvesting when the diameter of the spears is less than that of a pencil. Complete harvest in late spring. Harvest selectively afterwards to allow a few spears to develop into ferns. Q. When I finish harvesting asparagus spears, how should I care for the plants during the rest of the year? A. Allow the remaining spears to develop into ferns. Occasional fertilizing and adequate moisture help the plants develop sufficient top growth for good spear production the next year. Q. Each year my asparagus produces quite well, but many of the spears are bent and crooked. What causes this? A. Asparagus spears grow fast and are highly sensitive to mechanical injury from cultivation, insect feeding or wind-blown soil particles. Injured spears grow slowly. The noninjured side of the spears grows rapidly causing them to curve and bend toward the injured side. Q. Can table salt be used for weed control in my asparagus bed? A. Yes, in limited amounts. Asparagus is more salt tolerant than most vegetable plants. Use salt to control weeds. Asparagus plants and later spear production will be reduced by excessive amounts of salt usage in any one season or salt accumulation over the years. Q. What causes my asparagus spears to get smaller and smaller each year? A. This condition occurs in warmer areas. Spear production is mainly the result of food accumulated in the root system the previous year. The amount of food stored decreases with high temperatures during fall or poor growing conditions. Spears will be smaller the next spring. Water the asparagus bed in July and August. Do not cut down the ferns until late September. Remember to stop harvesting asparagus when the diameter of the spears is less than that of a pencil. If poor growing conditions prevail, smaller and smaller spears will result each year. Printed by University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service Printing Services. DR. CRAIG R. ANDERSEN is associate professor, Department of Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 Horticulture, University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture, and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Fayetteville. Agriculture, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Arkansas. The Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national origin, religion, gender, age, disability, marital or veteran status, or any other legally protected status, and is an Affirmative Action/Equal FSA6002-PD-5-09RV Opportunity Employer.", " Growing Vegetables: Asparagus Becky Sideman, UNH Cooperative Extension Professor & Specialist Asparagus is a perennial crop that produces spears year after year for 10 to 15 years or longer if the plants are given adequate care. Because it remains in the same location for many years, it’s important to select a planting site that’s convenient, as well as having good growing characteristics in mind. The edge of a garden might be preferable to the middle to accommodate future gardening activities. Asparagus Asparagus is grown for its succulent, immature shoots that, if allowed to grow, will eventually become the bushy foliage called ferns. In southern New Hampshire the young spears emerge about the first week in May or when the soil temperature reaches about 40 degrees F. Growth continues into late fall or early winter until the ferns are killed by frost. Growth Characteristics The asparagus plant is made up of top (ferns), crown (buds) and roots. All three are vital to a productive plant. The ferns are the “factory,” which, through the process of photosynthesis, produces food stored in the crown and roots below ground. The number of vigorous spears in the spring depends upon the amount of food produced and stored in the crown during the preceding summer and fall. Producing a good crop of ferns is necessary to ensure a good crop of spears the next spring. Do not cut back the old ferns at the end of the season until they are completely dead. In the fall, nutrients move from the dying ferns to the crown. Removing the ferns too early weakens the crown and may thereby reduce the size and number of spears the following spring. Growing Conditions Site Full sun is ideal. Asparagus needs at least 8 hours of sun per day. Since asparagus is a long-lived perennial, do not plant where trees or tall shrubs might eventually shade the plants or compete for nutrients and water. Soil The crown and root system can grow to an enormous size: 5 to 6 feet in diameter and 10 to 15 feet deep. Therefore, where possible, Freshly harvested asparagus. Bringing information and education into the communities of the Granite State Asparagus is the most delicious when it is freshly harvested. Maintain short-term freshness by standing an asparagus bunch in about an inch of water in a flat-bottomed container in the refrigerator. Did You Know? UNH Cooperative Extension • 2 select a soil that is loose, deep, well-drained and fertile. On sites with poor soil, incorporate manure, compost, and/or green manure cover crops into the soil before you plant asparagus. Fertilizer Have soil tested before planting and every three years thereafter. Soil testing can be done through a number of private and public labs. UNH Cooperative Extension offers this service. Forms and instructions are available on our website: https://extension.unh.edu/Problem-Diagnosis-and-Testing-Services/Soil-Testing, or you can call our Info Line at 1-877-EXT-GROW (1-877-398-4769). Adjust the soil pH to 6.5 to 6.8 by adding the appropriate quantity of limestone or wood ashes as recommended by a soil test. Fertilizer requirements are also determined by the same soil test. A general recommendation is to add the equivalent of 2.5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. All lime and fertilizer materials should be thoroughly incorporated into the soil to a depth of 10 to 12 inches before planting. Planting Asparagus is planted in the spring. The simplest method is to plant one-year-old crowns purchased from local garden dealers or through home garden catalogs. Even though the young crown will appear to be a lifeless mass of stringy roots, it will begin to send up small green shoots (spears) shortly after planting. Set plants 18 inches apart in rows five feet apart. Dig holes or trenches about 8 inches deep and 10 inches wide. Spread the roots in the bottom of the hole or trench and cover the crown with about 2 inches of soil. As the young shoots continue to grow during the first summer, gradually fill in the hole with soil. The tops of the crowns should be about 6 inches below the soil surface when the trenches are completely filled. This allows for cultivation by hoe or rototiller and also provides a sufficient depth of soil for new buds to develop on top of the crown. An alternative to using one-year-old crowns is to start asparagus transplants from seeds as you would start other vegetable transplants. About 6 to 8 weeks before planting, sow the seeds directly into pots. Thin to one plant per pot and, after all danger of frost has passed, plant the young seedlings as described above for crowns. Do not cover the young shoots (ferns) with soil. Weed Control Weeds are the most common problem in asparagus plantings, because they compete with the crop and reduce productivity. Do not plant asparagus or any vegetable in an area heavily infested with quackgrass or other weeds that spread by rhizomes. If necessary, begin a year in advance to clean out the quackgrass, either by Asparagus crowns are planted in trenches 10 inches wide and 8 inches deep (top). As the young shoots start to grow, continue to add small amounts of soil to fill in the trench without burying the young ferns (bottom). By the end of the season, the trench should be filled to the top. The border between this row of asparagus and the adjacent lawn is tilled throughout the season, every 3-4 weeks to prevent grasses and other weeds from creeping in and taking over the planting. 8” deep 10” wide UNH Cooperative Extension • 3 hand or mechanical cultivation or by spraying with an approved herbicide when the grass is 6 to 8 inches tall. If using herbicides, follow label directions precisely for safety and good weed control. In addition to planting in an area free of weeds, it can be helpful to maintain a tilled border around the asparagus planting, to prevent weeds from outside the patch from migrating into the planting. To manage annual weeds, mulch with straw, grass clippings, chopped leaves, or pine needles after the trenches have been filled in. Hand-hoeing while weeds are small is also effective. Pest Control The asparagus beetle is the most serious insect pest that affects asparagus. The larvae are dark and slug-like and are found on the ferns. There are two types of asparagus beetle; the common asparagus beetle (Crioceris asparigi) and the spotted asparagus beetle (C. duodecimpunctata). The adult spotted asparagus beetle is red with black spots, and the adult common asparagus beetle is metallic-colored with yellow spots. You can also reduce the damage caused by these insects if you practice “clean harvest”, meaning that you harvest all of the spears every time you harvest during the time that you’re harvesting, and then let all of them grow to ferns. At the end of fall, remove all of the dead ferns and crop debris that would otherwise shelter the adult beetles. If these practices do not control the pest, several insecticides are labeled for management of asparagus beetle. Asparagus rust and Fusarium crown and root rot are common diseases. Both diseases can weaken asparagus plants, so that the planting becomes less productive over time. Most varieties are fairly resistant to rust. Removing old ferns provides additional protection. Fusarium is more difficult to control. Use vigorous varieties listed as tolerant and do not plant new asparagus in areas that were previously planted to asparagus. Harvest Do not harvest asparagus until the third year after planting. The plants need at least two full seasons of growth before they build up ample food reserves to sustain harvests. In the third year, harvest only 2 to 3 weeks. In years thereafter, harvest no longer than 6 to 8 weeks (until about July 1 in southern New Hampshire). Harvesting for a longer period of time will not allow for maximum fern growth. Harvest the spears when they are 6 to 8 inches tall. Either snap or cut the spears off at ground level. To avoid injuring spears beneath the soil surface, do not cut more than one inch below the surface. Storage Do not harvest asparagus until the third year after planting. The plants need at least two full seasons of growth before they build up ample food reserves to sustain harvests. Did You Know? These are very healthy asparagus ferns, a few weeks after harvest. Compost has been added and weeds have been killed by shallow hoeing. UNH Cooperative Extension brings information and education into the communities of the Granite State to help make New Hampshire’s individuals, businesses, and communities more successful and its natural resources healthy and productive. For 100 years, our specialists have been tailoring contemporary, practical education to regional needs, helping create a well-informed citizenry while strengthening key economic sectors. The University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension is an equal opportunity educator and employer. University of New Hampshire, U.S. Department of Agriculture and N.H. counties cooperating. Asparagus is of highest quality when freshly harvested. It can be stored for a couple of weeks if the temperature is held at 34 degrees F and high relative humidity, but sweetness and flavor will deteriorate. Maintain short-term freshness by standing an asparagus bunch in about an inch of water in a flat-bottomed container in the refrigerator. Care of Established Plantings Remove ferns in the late fall, once they have completely died back. Early each spring, cultivate to remove any perennial weeds, and apply fertilizer materials over the surface. Apply the equivalent of 10-10-10 fertilizer at about 2,5 pounds per 100 square feet. Incorporate very lightly into the soil, no deeper than 1 to 2 inches. If you choose to use compost or animal manures, apply them just after you stop harvesting for the year. Keep the asparagus planting weed free with mulches or by hand-weeding. Updated: June 2016 For More Information: State Office Taylor Hall 59 College Rd. Durham, NH 03824 http://extension.unh.edu Education Center and Information Line answers@unh.edu 1-877-EXT-GROW (1-877-398-4769) 9 am–2 pm M–F Search key words: “UNH Education Center” About the Authors Original fact sheet by Otho S. Wells, UNH Extension Vegetable Specialist. Reviewed and revised by Becky Sideman, UNH Extension Vegetable & Berry Specialist. Dr. Becky Sideman is an Extension Professor in the Dept. of Biological Sciences at UNH, and is the state specialist for Sustainable Horticulture for UNH Cooperative Extension. Her program emphasizes vegetable and berry crop production including season extension for Northern New England. Visit our website: extension.unh.edu", "Publication 426-401 (SPES-250P) Asparagus Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech Alan McDaniel, Extension Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech Reviewed by Dave Close, Consumer Horticulture and Master Gardener Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech Seeds may be started in peat pots; they are slow to germinate (up to three weeks indoors), so be patient. Seedlings may be transplanted in June, either to the final growing site or to a temporary transplant bed. Direct transplanting to the permanent site allows simple planting techniques and avoids disturbing plant growth with a second move. However, the seedling plants will require more attention to weed control in the larger, permanent site compared to a smaller transplant bed where the plants are closer together. If using a transplant bed, dig the one-year-old crowns the next spring before growth starts. Use a spading fork, digging 6 inches under the plants, to gently loosen the soil and lift the crowns. Carefully separate the intertwining roots of neighboring plants, then set the crowns in the permanent site. Choose a site with good drainage and full sun. The tall ferns of asparagus may shade other plants, so plan accordingly. Prepare the bed as early as possible and enrich it with additions of manure, compost, bone or blood meal, leaf mold, wood ashes, or a combination of several of these. In heavy soils, double digging is recommended. To double-dig, remove the top foot of soil from the planting area. Then, with a spading fork or spade, break up the subsoil by pushing the tool into the next 10 to 12 inches of soil and rocking it back and forth. Do this every 6 inches or so. Double digging is ideal for the trench method of planting asparagus since a 12-inch-deep trench is usually dug anyway. The extra work of breaking up the subsoil will be well worth the effort, especially in heavy soil. The trench is dug 12 to 18 inches wide, with 4 to 5 feet between trenches. The same method may be used in wide-bed plantings, with plants staggered in three rows. Mix the topsoil that has been removed with organic matter, and spread about 2 inches of the mixture in the bottom of the trench or bed. Set the plants 15 to 18 inches apart, mounding the soil slightly under each plant so that the crown is slightly above the roots. Crowns should be of a grayish-brown color, plump and healthy-looking. Remove any rotted roots before planting. Spread the roots out over the mound of soil and cover the crown with 2 to 3 inches of soil. Firm well. As the plants grow, continue to pull soil over the Environmental Preferences LIGHT: Sunny. SOIL: Well-drained, deep sandy loam. FERTILITY: Medium-rich. pH: 6.0 to 6.7 TEMPERATURE: Cool (60 to 65°F). MOISTURE: Average; a flush of spears often follows a soaking rain. Culture PLANTING: 1-year crowns, early spring. SPACING: 18 inches by 4 to 5 feet; or in wide beds of three rows with plants 18 inches apart in all directions. HARDINESS: Hardy perennial, should be mulched in autumn. FERTILIZER NEEDS: Medium-heavy feeder, high phosphorus and potassium and organic matter at planting; annual nitrogen in late winter or very early spring; may sidedress after harvest; benefits from early topdressing of compost. Cultural Practices Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that will live from 12 to 15 years or longer. It is one of the most valuable of the early vegetables and is well adapted to freezer storage. During the harvest period (traditionally spring, but see below for summer harvest instructions), the spears develop daily from underground crowns. Asparagus does well where winters are cool and the soil occasionally freezes at least a few inches deep; it is considered very hardy. Start asparagus either from seed or from 1- to 2-year-old crowns. For fastest results, crowns purchased from a reputable nursery are recommended. There is risk of disease from less reputable dealers’ asparagus. Starting plants from seed requires an extra year before harvest. Seed may be started in peat pots; they are slow to germinate, so be patient. Seedlings may be transplanted in June. Crowns are usually shipped and set out in March or April. Visit our website: www.ext.vt.edu Produced by Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, 2020 Virginia Cooperative Extension programs and employment are open to all, regardless of age, color, disability, gender, gender identity, gender expression, national origin, political affiliation, race, religion, sexual orientation, genetic information,veteran status, or any other basis protected by law. An equal opportunity/affirmative action employer. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia State University, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Edwin J. Jones, Director, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg; M. Ray McKinnie, Administrator, 1890 Extension Program, Virginia State University, Petersburg. VT/0920/426-401(SPES-250P) 2 www.ext.vt.edu crowns (about 2 inches every two weeks) until the trench is filled. Water if rainfall is inadequate. According to recent research, total yield is unaffected by asparagus planting depth; however, deeper plantings produced larger spears, but fewer of them. Shallow plantings send up shoots earlier in spring, thus are subjected to possible frost damage. Asparagus shoots or spears should not be harvested the first season after crowns are set. Research plots harvested one year after planting crowns had a 23% smaller cumulative yield after five years than did plots harvested for the first time two years after planting. Harvest lightly for three to four weeks the second year. The fleshy root system needs to develop and store food reserves to produce growth during subsequent seasons. Plants harvested too heavily too soon often become weak and spindly, and the crowns may never recover. An extra year is added to the above schedule for asparagus started from seed; i.e., do not harvest at all the first TWO seasons, and harvest lightly the third. When the asparagus plants are in their fourth season, they may be harvested for eight to ten weeks per year. Weed the bed each spring before the first shoots come up, to avoid accidentally breaking off spears. During the production period, it is best to pull rather than hoe weeds if possible. Harvest spears daily during the eight- to ten-week harvest period. The 6- to 8-inch spears are best and should be snapped off just below the soil surface. If the asparagus is allowed to get much taller, the bases of the spears will be tough and will have to be cut; cutting too deeply can injure the crown buds which produce the next spears. Blanched asparagus is a gourmet item; to blanch (whiten) the spears, mound soil around them or otherwise exclude light from them so that chlorophyll is not formed in the stalks. When harvest is over (after 8 to 10 weeks), allow the spears to grow. Asparagus has attractive, fern-like foliage that makes a nice garden border. Some gardeners prefer to support the growing foliage with stakes and strings to keep them tidy. In high-wind areas, it is a good idea to plant the rows parallel to the prevailing winds so that the plants support each other to some extent. There are several ways to extend the harvest period of your asparagus planting. One method is to plant at different depths (3 inches, 4 to 6 inches, 6 to 8 inches, and 8 to 10 inches). The shallow plantings will come up first and can be harvested while the deeper plantings are just forming. This method will result in a slightly longer harvest, but may result in some plants being less vigorous than others. Another way to extend the harvest for a few weeks is to remove mulch from half of the asparagus bed. Leave the mulch on the other half. The exposed soil will warm up more quickly, and the crowns will sprout earlier. This process may be speeded up even further using black plastic, but be careful not to encourage growth too early, as heavy frost can make spears inedible. Remove mulch from the second bed when spears begin to appear. A third technique for extending asparagus harvest has been the subject of university research and is recommended for home gardeners who have plenty of space. Plant double the amount of asparagus needed for your household. Harvest half of the plants as you normally would in spring and early summer, then allow the foliage to grow for the rest of the season. During the early harvest period, allow the ferns to grow in the other half of the asparagus planting. Then, cut the ferns in the second half in late July. This causes the crowns to send up new spears, which can be harvested till late in the season. If rainfall is short in summer, it will help to water this bed for good spear production. Light mulch will help keep the soil surface from becoming too hard for the shoots to break through easily. If using this method, harvest the spring bed only in spring and the fall bed only in fall! Otherwise, you risk weakening the crowns. In all asparagus plantings, cut the foliage down to 2-inch stubs after frost when the foliage yellows, before the red berries fall off to reduce overcrowding caused by sprouting of selfseeding. A layer of 4 to 6 inches of mulch of compost, manure, leaves, or other material added at this time will help control weeds and add organic matter and nutrients. Common Problems DISEASES: Rust (use resistant varieties); Fusarium root rot. INSECTS: Asparagus beetles, cutworms. CULTURAL: Weak, spindly plants and/or too few spears from too early or too heavy a harvest; crown rot or poor production from inadequately prepared, heavy soil; moles/voles can be a problem. Harvesting And Storage DAYS TO MATURITY: 2 to 3 years. HARVEST: Third year spears; snap off just under soil surface when 6 to 8 inches tall, before tips begin to separate; use or refrigerate immediately. APPROXIMATE YIELDS: 3 to 4 pounds per year, per 10- foot row. AMOUNT TO RAISE: 6 pounds per person. STORAGE: Process or refrigerate immediately in plastic bag. PRESERVATION: Can or freeze.", "Developed by James Manning, Undergraduate Research Assistant, and Daniel Brainard, Vegetable Extension Specialist; MSU Department of Horticulture; Gary Heilig, MSU Extension educator. Variety selection In Michigan, the most commonly grown varieties are Millenium and Jersey varieties (e.g. Jersey Giant; Jersey Knight). Millenium is a newer variety from Canada that is well adapted to Michigan’s climate. It does well on heavier soils, but is somewhat more susceptible to foliar diseases than the Jersey varieties. Preparation and planting Asparagus is a perennial crop that can be expected to produce for 10 years or more, so it is particularly important to take the time to find a suitable site, and prepare it carefully. Sandy, welldrained soils with pH between 6.8 and 7.5 are preferred. Relatively high levels of phosphorous should be provided (up to 200 lbs P/A) and incorporated before planting. Perennial weeds, such as quackgrass, should be eliminated before planting. Plant asparagus crowns in a trench 10 to 14 inches deep. After planting, cover the crowns with 2 inches of soil. Care As new shoots grow, fill in the soil around them, but don’t cover the tips of the shoots. Do not harvest the first year after planting and only harvest sparingly in the second year. Add N and K sources (about 50 lbs N/A) after harvest in subsequent years. Asparagus has relatively low water requirements, and generally doesn’t need irrigation in Michigan on most garden soils. However, on very sandy soils, irrigation is helpful during fern growth. Major pests Insects: Asparagus beetle, Asparagus miner. Diseases: Rust, Fusarium, Phytophthora, purple spot. Harvesting and storage You will get the first large harvest in the third and fourth years. The season begins in May and can continue through June. A 25-foot row should yield 7 to 12 pounds of asparagus. Snap off 8- to 10-inch spears that are less than 1 inch in diameter before the buds open. Leave those that are smaller than a pencil. Complete the harvest before July 1. The ferns that grow following harvest should not be cut until they are completely dead in the fall or just before growth begins in spring. Store asparagus under cool and moist conditions, such as the crisper of your refrigerator. Asparagus (Asparagus officianalis) Family: Liliaceae Hardiness: Hardy Ease of growing: Difficult Nutrient needs: Moderate Water needs: Low Common propagation: Crowns (one-year-old nursery grown) Transplants Weeks to grow transplant: 10 to 12 Start: February Plant out: May Planning facts Typical spacing: 12” to 18” in 4’ to 5’ rows Depth: 10” to 14” trench Plants per square foot: 0.25 Time to first harvest: 2 to 3 years How to grow asparagus www.migarden.msu.edu WCAG 2.0 AA MSU is an affirmative-action, equal-opportunity employer, committed to achieving excellence through a diverse workforce and inclusive culture that encourages all people to reach their full potential. Michigan State University Extension programs and materials are open to all without regard to race, color, national origin, gender, gender identity, religion, age, height, weight, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, marital status, family status or veteran status. Issued in furtherance of MSU Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Jeffrey W. Dwyer, Interim Director, MSU Extension, East Lansing, MI 48824. This information is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names does not imply endorsement by MSU Extension or bias against those not mentioned.", "Garden Gate Greenhouse, Inc. 3415 E 500 S Peru, In 46970 765-473-4992 Compliments of Harvesting Asparagus—continued about 4 to 6 weeks. The third year after planting and thereafter, harvesting can continue for 6 to 8 weeks. This will all depend on weather conditions. It is best to pick all spears each time, not allowing spears to fern out initially. This is to prevent asparagus beetles from laying their eggs in the ferns. A general rule is to stop harvesting when the diameter of most of the asparagus spears becomes pencil thin. For the last harvest, snap all the spears off at ground level. To encourage foliage growth for the rest of the growing season, apply 1 lb. of 12-12- 12 fertilizer per 50 feet of row. The foliage should be allowed to remain as long as it is green. This year’s growth is making the food reserves to store for next year’s crop. Storage of Asparagus Asparagus is perishable and should be harvested in the morning when air temperatures are cool. After picking, immerse spears in ice-cold water to remove the heat; then drain the water and place the spears in plastic bags. Store in the refrigerator at 38 to 40 degrees. Asparagus will keep for 1 to 2 weeks with little loss of quality. Crunchy Almond Asparagus 1 lb. fresh asparagus 2 c. crushed seasoned croutons 8 oz. shredded cheddar cheese 1 can cream of chicken soup 1/2 c. chopped almonds, unblanched 1 T. melted butter Cut asparagus into 3/4-inch pieces. Cook in 1 cup lightly salted, boiling water until tendercrisp. Drain asparagus; reserve liquid. Combine seasoned crumbs and cheese; set aside. Combine soup, reserved asparagus liquid, and asparagus. Layer 1/2 the crumb mixture in a buttered 3-quart casserole dish. Top with 1/2 the asparagus. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Toss chopped almonds with melted butter. Sprinkle over casserole. Bake at 350o for 30-35 minutes. Yield: 6 servings. Grace Reed, Mt. Zion from Homemade Happiness: Dunkard Brethren Cookbook, 3rd edition, 2007. How to Grow Asparagus For more information on growing asparagus, visit the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Web site, and download HO-96W, “Growing Asparagus in the Home Garden.” Asparagus has been cultivated for over 2,000 years in the eastern Mediterranean region. It was brought to America with the early colonists. Its name derives from the Greek word asparagos, which means “sprout” or “shoot.” Ancient Greeks and Romans prized it for various medicinal qualities. Today, we value asparagus because it is loaded with nutrients, contains fiber, folate, chromium, vitamins A, C, E, K, and the amino acid asparagine. Asparagus should be considered a long-term perennial vegetable crop (15 years or more) that will require generous space, preferably in an out-of-the-way spot. It grows best in fertile, well-drained soil in an area that gets at least 6 hours of sun a day. Soil pH should be 6.5 to 7.5. Preparing to Plant Asparagus is most often planted from crowns, which are the base and roots of one-year-old asparagus plants. Plant from early April to late May after the soil has warmed to about 50o F. They will not grow until the soil warms. If the crowns are exposed to cold wet soils over a prolonged period, Fusarium rot can become a threat. Plant the asparagus at the west or north side of the garden so that it will not shade other vegetables. Dig a Trench! Dig a furrow or trench about 6 inches deep, piling the excess soil to the sides of the trench. Scatter about 1 lb. of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 50 feet of row in the bottom of the furrow. Then rake the fertilizer in well. This will make phosphorus immediately available to the crowns without the risk of burning them by direct contact. Carefully spread crowns to loosen them, then place in the furrow, about 18 inches apart. If the crowns seem too stiff, soften them ahead of time in water. If you plant more than one row, space the rows five feet apart from center to center. There are two schools of thought on covering the crowns. Some prefer to loosely backfill the trench to a little over its original soil level, taking care not to compact the soil. Others prefer to cover the crowns with about two inches of soil, then, as the shoots emerge, continue to sift soil into the trench until it is slightly mounded at the top. Weather may dictate the best method for you. Heavy rain could cause problems with the second method. Weed Control Weed control is essential to establish a strong asparagus bed. Early hand pulling of weeds, hoeing, and cultivating are the best methods. An organic mulch can also help to suppress weeds. Note: the dense fern canopy that forms later will also help to shade out weed growth. Do not use salt as a weed killer! This is an old homespun remedy. Although salt will not harm the asparagus, it inhibits water penetration in the soil. More important, rain can leach the salt out of the asparagus bed and into the rest of the garden, injuring other vegetables. Harvesting You do not have to wait two years after planting to harvest asparagus spears. Research shows that harvesting one year after planting stimulates more bud production on the crowns. Harvest asparagus by snapping 7 to 9 inch spears with tight tips. It is best not to cut asparagus below the soil with a knife, as this may injure other buds on the crown. Most often, the first year after planting, you will harvest several times throughout a three-week period. Two years after planting, the harvest can increase to How to Grow Asparagus", "Caring for the Site For the first two years, gently pull weeds taking care not to disturb the asparagus’ roots. Water regularly but do not allow the bed to become saturated. While the asparagus plants are becoming established water them once or twice a week. After the first season, if the area has no measurable precipitation, water once a week. Fertilize in the spring. In the fall, after the foliage dies, cut it off about an inch above the ground and lay it on the bed to provide protection during the winter. When winter ends, destroy the foliage as it may harbor disease. Add an inch or two of mulch each spring. Inspect the plants regularly looking for signs of disease. Planting Recommended varieties include Jersey Giant, Jersey Prince, Jersey Knight, and Millennium. Starting with crowns, as opposed to seeds, is recommended as it cuts down on the length of time from planting to harvest. Plan to plant the crowns two to four weeks before the last average frost date in your area. • Soak the crowns in water for approximately twenty minutes. • Dig a trench that is six inches deep and twelve inches wide. • Lay the crowns eighteen to twenty–four inches apart in the trench and fill with about two or three inches of soil on top of them. • Examine the site weekly looking for plants to emerge. • When they emerge add another inch or two of soil. • Repeat this process until the trench is completely filled in, leaving a small mound to allow for future settling of the soil. • Add an inch or two of mulch to smother weeds and conserve water. Selecting and Preparing a Site Choose a site that is well–drained and receives eight or more hours of full sun daily. A loose, deep soil is preferable. Late spring frosts can damage the plants so find an area that is not low-lying or exposed to frost. If the asparagus bed will be part of a larger vegetable garden, choose an area that will not be shaded by other plants. Prepare a four feet wide bed, removing all weeds and their roots. If planting more than one row, allow for five feet between rows. Add a generous amount of well–composted manure or compost. Incorporate the nutrients recommended by the soil test results into the top six inches of soil. Asparagus plants may take 2 to 3 years to get started but, once established, can be productive for 15 to 20 or more years. Before planting asparagus, have your soil tested to determine if it has the right amount of nutrients for asparagus to thrive. It is best to test and prepare the soil a year prior to planting. Growing Asparagus Developed by the Pennsylvania Department of Education and Penn State University (Project PA). This project has been funded at least in part with Federal funds from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The contents of this publication do not necessarily reflect the view or policies of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, nor does mention of trade names, commercial products, or organization imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. USDA is an equal opportunity provider, employer, and lender. Harvesting Do not harvest during the planting year. Asparagus needs time to develop strong crowns. Harvest during a couple weeks in the second year and for up to two months in the third year. Harvest asparagus shoots when they are six to eight inches tall shoots by cutting them with a sharp knife or scissors at ground level. Stop harvesting when the diameter of the spears decreases to the size of a pencil. After harvesting, fertilize the asparagus in early summer. Do not cut down the remaining ferns in the summer. Allow them to grow and mature as this replenishes the nutrients. Usually in early winter the foliage will turn brown or yellow. At this time, cut the ferns back to the ground. Fertilize and top with straw or mulch. Spears will push up through the mulch in the spring.", "Asparagus VEGETABLE CROPS PRODUCTION GUIDE FOR THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES Prepared by the ADVISORY COMMITTEE ON VEGETABLE CROPS Published by authority of the ATLANTIC PROVINCES AGRICULTURE SERVICES CO-ORDINATING COMMITTEE Introduction Asparagus is a member of the Liliaceae (lily family) and has separate male and female plants. Asparagus officinalis is a perennial crop which is productive for fifteen years or more after establishment. It originated along the seacoasts of Europe and Asia and has been cultivated for over 2000 years. Asparagus is adaptable to temperate regions where low temperature or drought give the crop a rest period. The minimum temperature for germination is 10 C. The optimum range for germination is 16 to 30 C. The optimum temperature for germination is 24 C. The crop does well under cool season conditions; however, the rate of growth is temperature sensitive. The length of time required for the asparagus shoot to grow from 10 cm to 25 cm varies from 5.3 days at a mean daily temperature of 11 C, to 1.9 days at a mean temperature of 25 C. Rhizome buds form at temperatures between 16 and 32 C. This plant requires a good water supply but will not tolerate wet soils. Asparagus is frost sensitive so areas subject to late spring and early fall frost, should be avoided if high yield is to be obtained. Dormant asparagus crowns are rarely harmed by winter cold. The preferred soil is deep, reasonably free of stones and gravel, loose, a fine loamy sand to sandy loam with reasonable organic matter. Good drainage is essential. Heavy soils such as clay loam should be avoided. A site should not have had asparagus production in the past. This crop requires a rooting depth greater than 1.5 m. The first asparagus harvest occurs in the spring of the third year from planting (1 year old crowns). A potential yield in the third year would be 1000 kg/ha, in the fourth year 2000 kg/ha, and in the fifth and succeeding years 3000 kg/ha. Recent cultivar trials show large variations between cultivars in yield potential during the first few years but no long term data is available. Presently asparagus is a specialty crop in the Atlantic area and small amounts are delivered to roadside markets, restaurants and retail stores. However, there is potential for increased fresh market consumption, export potential and also enough land resources for processed asparagus production. (White or blanched asparagus is a specialty crop that can be grown). Nutrient Content: Very good source of Vitamin A and potassium. Good source of Vitamin C. Contains small amounts of other nutrients including iron. Very low in sodium and calories. 3 to 4 spears provides 10 kilocalories. Crop Establishment Seed harvested from strong, productive parent plants will produce plants that are more productive and less susceptible to disease than those grown from seed taken from weak plants. Seed of older varieties are continually being re-selected for increased performance. Many high yielding F1 hybrid male cultivars are on the market. Male plants are usually higher yielding than female plants within a cultivar. Seed Treatment - Asparagus seed is soaked for 3 to 4 days at 30-35 C before planting. This soaking softens the seed coat, swells the seed, and starts the germination process which results in earlier emergence of up to one week. There is no advantage if seeding is done into a dry soil. Seeding/Planting - Asparagus seed should not be planted deeper than 2.5 to 4 cm, depending on soil type and seeding date. Choose a light, well drained sandy loam seedbed with pH about 6.6 and free of perennial weeds. Sow 1 kg of seed per 1000 square meters of seedbed, to produce approximately 25,000 crowns, enough for 1 ha, after plant selection. Select 1 year old crowns the following spring, weighing 30 to 50g. Permanent field spacing of the crowns should be in rows 1.25 to 1.75 m apart with 30 to 45 cm between plants. This requires approximately 20,000 plants per hectare. Close spacing usually results in higher total yields but the spears are thinner and life of the stand may be shortened. Lift 1 year old plants in early spring. Discard small crowns (under 25 g) and crowns with close-spaced, narrow buds. Grade plants so that similar sized crowns are planted in the same field. Plant in furrows 15 to 20 cm deep, shallower on heavier soils. Spread roots as much as possible, place buds upward and cover with not more than 5 cm of soil. Fill the furrow gradually by cultivation during the first year. Good weed control will maintain a high plant population and vigorous growth. Fields can also be planted with asparagus seedlings that are 8 to 12 weeks old. Start transplants in containers or cells that are 5 cm or larger. Use a sterilized media containing half sand and half peat mix. Use normal greenhouse growing practices. Seeds are planted individually in blocks, modules (large) or flats in February. Transplants are planted to the field in late May. Direct seeding may be possible in some situations. Crop Management Establishment - Site selection and preparation should begin two years prior to planting in order to properly adjust the pH and eliminate perennial weed problems. It is essential to maintain healthy fern growth during the first two growing seasons or the crown growth will be restricted and the plants permanently damaged. Weed control during the first season is easily accomplished by slowly filling in the trenches during the season. These cultivations can be timed with flushes of weeds as long as ferns are not covered. During the second year the beds must be kept weed free, especially during the late summer and fall. Weed competition late in the season will restrict crown growth. Close attention must be given to insects and diseases that attack young ferns. As ferns become vigorous and full, diseases can cause the ferns to die prematurely, especially in the late summer and early fall during periods of humid weather. Fungicides can be applied to control this foliage decline. Mature Stands - After the last cutting of the season, plantings are usually disked lightly for weed control and to incorporate fertilizer. Then the fern is allowed to grow for the remainder of the year. Asparagus fern growth should not be removed while it is still green as it supplies food to the roots. Ferns should be left to trap snow which protects crowns from low temperature winter injury. The fern can be cut with a rotary or flail-type mower early in the spring and lightly disked into the soil. This can provide 10 to 15 tonnes of organic matter per hectare. All cultivation for fern disposal, weed control and fertilizer incorporation should be shallow and kept to a minimum. In a vigorous stand the harvest period in year 3 is 1 to 2 weeks, in year 4, 3 to 4 weeks and in year 5 and thereafter 5 to 7 weeks. Harvest should only proceed if the spear size is large. When the size starts to decrease then harvest should stop. Over harvesting results in small diameter ferns which initiate small buds which give rise to small spears the next harvest season. The fall seeding of rye can be done in late August or early September (if herbicide residues are low). The rye can be burned down with a herbicide in the spring after mowing the fern and before fertilizer is applied. The rye will serve to reduce sandblasting. This may result in a slightly later harvest date. In some fields, this will prevent soil erosion over winter which can be a serious problem in this crop. Nutrition ALL ADDITIONS OF LIME AND FERTILIZER OR MANURES SHOULD BE BASED ON RECOMMENDATIONS FROM A SOIL TEST. Asparagus responds to manures. Use it prior to planting crowns and with annual top dressings. Not only does it contribute nutrients but also significant organic matter to the soil. Caution should be used with poultry manure as excess nitrogen may be detrimental. Lime - Lime should be applied to maintain the soil pH in the range 6.8 to 7.0. Asparagus is particularly sensitive to soil acidity which is a frequent cause of crop failure. Heavy applications of limestone must be deeply and evenly incorporated to be sure the crown is surrounded with soil which has a high pH. Nitrogen - The needs for crown production are lower than in established fields. For crown production half the nitrogen is applied at planting time and half is side-dressed in August depending on weather conditions and the vigor of the stand. For new plantings all of the nitrogen is applied preplant. For established plantings apply half the nitrogen before harvest and half the nitrogen immediately after harvest. Phosphorus - This nutrient is important to crown producing fields and new plantings. It is important to band phosphorus in new plantings to ensure the stand will be well fertilized in this element as it cannot be effectively applied later. Approximately 450 kg of 0-20-0 mixture should be banded with the crowns per hectare in addition to the recommended broadcast applications. Potash - Asparagus has a relatively high potash requirement and an additional sidedressing in established fields in early August may increase yields the following year. Micronutrients - Asparagus has a high boron requirement. If a deficiency is suspected apply a soil spray of 1.75 to 2.25 kg of actual boron per hectare or apply a boronated fertilizer. Also, foliar sprays of boron may be used. Sulfur may be beneficial on sandy soils with low organic matter. Application Method - Generally in established fields nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium are broadcast with shallow incorporation. On newly established fields a wide band over the row may be used for nitrogen and potash. Pests and Pest Control Weeds Perennial weeds such as quackgrass, must be completely eliminated during the year prior to the planting of asparagus crowns or seeds. During the establishment year use the ""stale seedbed technique'', whereby emerged weeds are chemically ""burnt-off'' with a post emergence herbicide prior to crop emergence. Additionally, herbicide(s) that control germinating weeds (preemergence) can be applied before and after spear emergence. Established asparagus can be disked in the spring and then treated with one of several residual herbicides prior to spear emergence. Alternatively emerged weeds can be treated with a postemergence ""burnoff'' treatment and then a residual herbicide prior to spear emergence. A second treatment of herbicide should be applied after the last harvest to provide weed control through the summer. Diseases Fusarium Diseases (fungi) Characteristics - Growing stalks are stunted, yellow and may wilt. Fern growth is also yellow and stunted. Crowns, roots and stems may show discoloration of vascular bundles and varying amounts of decay. Control - Avoid replanting land which previously grew asparagus. Treat seed and crowns before planting. To avoid injuring the crowns, do not cultivate deeper than 10 cm. Irrigate sandy soil under high moisture stress. Use tolerant cultivars. Rust (fungus) Characteristics - This is a potentially serious foliage and stem disease which causes elongated orange red powdery areas on stems and foliage. All commercial cultivars are susceptible to rust. Control - Disease control is achieved only with thorough spray coverage on a regular schedule once the disease is observed. This spray must protect the new foliage as it grows, before rust spores can land on it and germinate (a 7 to 10 day schedule from late May to late August). Physiological Disorders Hollow Stem - This problem tends to be more prevalent during periods of warm, wet weather resulting in rapid spear growth and is found in crops that are ready to be harvested. You may have a problem in specific years with certain cultivars. Plant vigor and spacing may also play a role. Hooking - This results in bent spears. This problem has many causes but is always because of some sort of injury to the spear - either above or below the ground. Spears will hook into prevailing winds where sandblasting or cold air is a problem. Under the soil, cutworm feeding, cutting knives, stones, etc. can cause severe hooking. Insects Asparagus Beetle Characteristics - The adult beetles are 6 mm in length, blueish black in color with three creamy yellow spots on each wing cover. The larvae are dark gray with black heads. Adults feed on the asparagus shoots. The larvae feed on the leaves and stems. Control - Apply insecticides as necessary when damage becomes significant. Spotted Asparagus Beetles Characteristics - The adult beetles are 6 mm long and reddish-orange with 6 black spots on each wing. They feed on the young shoots and fronds. The orange larvae feed inside the berries. Control - Leave uncut rows in the spring to serve as traps for the beetles. When temperatures are above 21 C and the beetles are seen on the uncut rows use one of the recommended chemicals. Cutworms, Tarnished Plant Bugs and Aphids These insects may cause problems in some seasons but they have not been identified as significant pests of asparagus in this area. FOR SPECIFIC CHEMICAL CONTROLS SEE THE ATLANTIC PROVINCES ""GUIDE TO PEST MANAGEMENT"" FOR VEGETABLE CROPS. Harvesting and Handling New plantings can usually be harvested for about 2 weeks in the spring of the third year after field setting. Harvest by cutting or snapping spears at ground level when 18 to 25 cm tall. In established plantings, the harvest season is from about May 20 to early July. Harvesting should be terminated early if emerging spears are too thin to meet the grade standards. Over cutting causes a rapid decline in stand vigor. Harvesting and trimming must be done efficiently if this crop is to be profitable. Storage and Conditioning Asparagus is usually not stored. It can be kept 3 to 4 weeks when hydrocooled immediately after harvest and stored at 2 C. Storage at 0 C for more than 10 days can cause chilling injury. High relative humidity is important to prevent excessive moisture losses. High relative humidity is obtained by placing the butts of asparagus on wet pads or pre-packaging spears in perforated bags. A moisture loss of 3 to 6% will markedly affect the quality. The average freezing temperature of asparagus is -1 C. At 0 C half the initial sugar in an asparagus spear is lost after 2 weeks of storage, at 10 C it takes 1 week, at 20 C it takes 2 days, and at 30 C only about one half day. Spears should be held upright to avoid undesirable curvature. Controlled atmosphere storage benefits asparagus by reducing decay and toughening. When the temperature can be held between 0 and 3 C, 12 ± 2% carbon dioxide and normal oxygen makes an acceptable atmosphere; at higher temperatures the carbon dioxide should be reduced to 7 ± 2%. Exposure of spears to ethylene which can cause toughening should be avoided. Bibliography (See also General References) Asparagus Production in California. Feb. 1977. Bulletin # 1882. University of California, Dept. of Vegetable Crops, Davis. Insect Pests of Asparagus O.M.A.F. Factsheet. June 1982. Agdex 254/625. R.T. Wirkasch, Dept. of Environmental Biology, U. of Guelph. Diseases of Asparagus O.M.A.F. Factsheet. May 1982. Agdex 254/635. R.T. Wirkasch, Dept. of Environmental Biology, U. of Guelph. Asparagus Production in Canada. April 1983. L.R. Mapplebeck and H. Tiessen, Dept. of Horticultural Science, U. of Guelph, Guelph, Ontario. Sandsted, R.F., D.A. Wilcox, T.A. Zitterand, A.A. Muka. 1985. Asparagus Information Bulletin 202. Cornell Cooperative Extension Pub. 11 pp. Diseases and Pests of Vegetable Crops in Canada. 1994. The Canadian Phytopathological Society and Entomological Society of Canada. pp. 43-49 and 404-406.", "MontGuide For More Online MontGuides, Visit www.msuextension.org YARD AND GARDEN MT198365AG Revised 6/19 Asparagus in the home garden by Cheryl Moore-Gough, Extension Horticulture Specialist This publication offers basic instructions for successfully growing asparagus, from choosing plant materials to maintaining beds. ASPARAGUS (ASPARAGUS OFFICINALIS) IS A perennial plant that will provide delicious and nutritious food for many years, if started correctly and with proper care of the bed properly. Asparagus is low in calories and a great source of vitamins C, A, and K, as well as folate. Most cultivars of asparagus are hardy to USDA Zone 3, but some cultivars are hardy to Zone 2. Asparagus does best on sites with moist soil and full sun. Beds reach peak production in about eight years, when the yield of spears can reach five pounds per 100 square feet. A properly managed bed remains productive for 12 to 15 years; some over 30 years old are still fairly productive. Asparagus tolerates higher soil salinity than most other garden plants and can be planted in low, wet areas where other crops will not grow. Establishing a bed Plant Materials Start by purchasing one- or two-year-old crowns, or divide and transplant old crowns, leaving one bud per division. An old clump can be divided into as many as 50 new plants. Direct seeding is possible, but not recommended due to variability of resulting seedlings. Planting newly purchased crowns is the most popular way to start an asparagus bed. Be sure crowns for planting are dormant and have large, fleshy, whitish-tan roots without mold or rot. Soil Preparation Because an asparagus bed will last many years, have the soil tested prior to preparation to determine existing nutrients and obtain fertilizer recommendations (see the MontGuide Home Garden Soil Testing & Fertilizer Guidelines, MT200705AG, for a list of soil testing laboratories). Destroy all perennial weeds by mulching or cultivating. Then spade or till the soil deeply, working in 50 to 100 pounds of rotted organic matter or compost per 100 square feet (two to four inches on the bed). Also apply fresh or highly nitrogenous manure (like poultry manure) at one fourth that rate (½ to 1 inch). Like other plants, asparagus needs ample supplies of phosphorus, potassium, calcium and other minerals, as well as nitrogen. Planting In spring, when soil temperatures have reached at least 50°F, use the trench method to plant or dig individual holes: Dig your trench 10 inches deep by 10 inches wide with 2-inch mounds 18 inches apart. Rehydrate crowns by soaking in tepid water for one or two hours, then spread the roots over the mounds. Leave 2½ to 3 feet between rows. Or, dig holes about 6 to 8 inches deep and 10 to 12 inches in diameter. Place a crown into each hole with the central bud pointing upward. For either method, fill with about three inches of topsoil, covering crowns. As the tips of the young shoots extend above the soil, add additional soil to the hole. Finish filling the hole when the tips of the shoots extend above the ground level. Apply fertilizer at planting according to the soil test results. Most Montana soils contain adequate calcium, but acid soils in the high mountain valleys and some sandy soils in other areas may need additional calcium. Follow soil test recommendations. Cultivars Cultivars can be all- or predominantly male. Female stalks are thicker and produce seeds, while male stalks are more prolific and smaller in diameter. Rust-resistant varieties are recommended. ‘Mary Washington’ is the most time-proven cultivar. It yields well, survives under our conditions, and is rust resistant. Other cultivars for Montana include the disease resistant ‘Jersey’ series (including the all-male ‘Knight’ and ‘Giant,’ and the predominantly male ‘Supreme’), the predominantly male ‘Millennium’ that is adapted to heavier soils, and ‘Purple Passion and ‘Pacific Purple,’ which are photo by Dan Spurr DOWNLOAD E WE FREE File under: Yard and Garden (Vegetable) Revised June 2019 To order additional publications, please contact your county or reservation MSU Extension office, visit our online catalog at https://store.msuextension.org or e-mail orderpubs@montana.edu Copyright © 2019 MSU Extension We encourage the use of this document for nonprofit educational purposes. This document may be reprinted for nonprofit educational purposes if no endorsement of a commercial product, service or company is stated or implied, and if appropriate credit is given to the author and MSU Extension. To use these documents in electronic formats, permission must be sought from the Extension Communications Coordinator, 115 Culbertson Hall, Montana State University, Bozeman, MT 59717; E-mail: publications@montana.edu The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), Montana State University and Montana State University Extension prohibit discrimination in all of their programs and activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, and marital and family status. Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work in agriculture and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cody Stone, Director of Extension, Montana State University, Bozeman, MT 59717. beautiful cut on a slant and eaten raw in salads (they lose their purple color when cooked). Weed Control No herbicide should be used in the home asparagus patch. Some weed control can be done early in the spring before spears come up by hoeing or by very shallow tilling. Later, after the cutting season, hoe or cultivate again to destroy broad-leaved weeds. Pull grassy weeds. Insect Control Asparagus beetle. This insect resembles a ladybug but is considerably more elongate and can defoliate large areas in a short time. Handpick the insects or use an appropriate insecticide registered for their control. Cutworms. Cutworms cut off underground shoots and feed on tips of new shoots, causing crooked spears. Remove injured spears. Inspect the soil around the injured plant and destroy the worm. Placing a ring of wood ashes around plants can deter cutworms, but don't let the ashes contact green plant tissue. Diseases Asparagus rust. This disease is more likely to be found in areas with high rainfall and high humidity. Nevertheless, it does occur in Montana. Small, reddish-yellow spots appear on the main stem near the ground and on the slender branches of the stalks that grow up after the cutting season. Plant resistant cultivars such as 'Mary Washington' or the ‘Jersey’ series. Burn diseased material or otherwise remove from the garden. Do not compost. Harvesting Don’t harvest the first season, and harvest only lightly the second. The first full harvest begins in the third season after planting. Harvest time varies by season and area. In an early spring in warmer areas or at lower elevations, spears may be ready for harvest by late April. Gardeners in higher areas in a cool spring might not harvest spears before mid-June. Harvest can last up to July 1, but not in every area every year. Spears are ready to cut when they are eight to 10 inches tall. Cutting too soon reduces yield; cutting too late increases spear toughness. Remove the spears by snapping them off at the soil line or by cutting them with a sharp knife at or just below the soil line. Don't cut deep enough to damage the crown. Avoid Over-Harvest No planting of asparagus will last long if all spears are removed every season. Cut spears for no more than the first six weeks. Stop harvesting when the spear diameter becomes noticeably smaller. Then let all remaining spears grow into tall plants (“ferns”). As they die back each year, the sugars produced by these ferns will be reabsorbed into the plant roots. Take care to not cut them until they are browning, to assure strong plants for the following year. Maintaining Established Beds Fertilizer. Water and minerals used by the plants need replenishing. Unless the soil is high in organic matter, apply nitrogen early each spring at the rate of 1 to 2½ pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Every three to five years, apply 2 to 3½ pounds of actual phosphate (P2O5) per 1,000 square feet and work it into the soil between hills. If the soil is deficient in potash, apply it at the same rate and time as the phosphate. Have soil tested if the asparagus patch appears to be declining. Mulching. Apply an insulating mulch of straw or similar material to the bed after the soil freezes and remove it in early spring when danger of severe cold has passed. If not removed, it will keep the ground cool and delay emergence of the spears. This is especially important in cooler locations. Asparagus plants extend roots and crowns horizontally, making it difficult to maintain the plants in a straight line. Acknowledgements The author would like to acknowledge the original author of this MontGuide, Bob Gough, former Extension Horticulture Specialist.", "Growing Asparagus in Wisconsin Karen Delahaut Fresh Market Vegetable Program Coordinator Asparagus (Asparagus officianalis) is a member of the lily family (Liliaceae). It is a hardy perennial that will yield for up to 40 years or more once the crop is established. The fern-like foliage grows to about 4-5 feet tall if the young stems are not cut. The plants are dioecious meaning that male and female flowers are borne on separate plants. The female plants will produce spears like the male plants but they will also produce flowers once the plants are allowed to produce ferns, thereby putting energy into the production of berries that arise from the female flowers and taking energy away from rejuvenating the crowns. The production of seed also leads to seedling weeds growing in the asparagus bed which will crowd the desirable crowns and reduce their vigor as the seedlings will compete for water, nutrients, and space. This has led, in recent years to the production of all male varieties of the crop. These all male varieties are much more vigorous than the older, open pollinated varieties such as Mary Washington or Martha Washington. Asparagus is thought to have originated near the Mediterranean Sea and was a Greek delicacy. Its culture dates back to about 200 B.C. In Greek, the word asparagus means “stalk” or “shoot”. Asparagus has been grown in America since the early settlers came from Europe but it was not until the mid-1800s that it was planted extensively. Cultivars: There are both open pollinated hybrids and predominantly male hybrids. Male plants yield more than females so I’d encourage you to consider planting one of them. Some cultivars will have resistance to Cercospora leaf spot, crown rot, Fusarium wilt, and rust. Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Jersey Supreme, Jersey Gem, and Jersey King are all male varieties that yield more than Mary or Martha Washington. This yield increase can be 1 ½ - 2 times that of traditional cultivars. These all-male varieties are available from the Jersey Asparagus Company (www.jerseyasparagus.com). • Jersey Knight is probably the best for the home gardener and has the best spear quality. • Jersey Giant is also a popular home garden variety. It is more tolerant of the cold Wisconsin climate than Jersey Knight. • Jersey Supreme is a relatively new variety that is also well suited to colder climates and will produce spears earlier in the season. Another unique variety is Purple Passion, a purple variety of asparagus for the gardener looking for a unique crop. Purple Passion was a new variety in 2004. It produces a purple spear and has s high sugar content. Purple passion will turn green when cooked. Keep in mind that this is not an all male variety like the 3 varieties previously listed. Culture: Select a site, preferably in full sun, where the plants can remain for years. Deep, well-drained soils are essential to good asparagus production. The soil should have at least 2% organic matter and high levels of phosphorus and potassium before planting. Soil pH should be 6.5-7.5 for best production. Get a soil test prior to planting and indicate on the form that you are planning on planting asparagus so recommendations can be made accordingly. Use transplants of 1-year-old crowns from a reputable dealer that are certified disease-free. The crowns should be planted in early to mid-spring, depending on your area. Dig trenches 8 inches deep loosening the soil below and adding compost to the bottom of the trench. Rows should be 4-6 feet apart and the plants should be 9-12 inches apart in the row. Place the plants in the trench and spread out the roots. Cover with 2 inches of soil. Gradually fill in the trench as the spears begin to emerge. Poor stands result if the plants are covered too deeply at the beginning. Ridge the soil moderately over the rows after the plants are well established. Asparagus plants grow outward from the central crown by fleshy roots called rhizomes. After 10-15 years the crown and resulting rhizome radius can reach 2 feet or more in diameter. After the 8 week harvest period – late June in southern Wicsonsin, fertilize with a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 to help rejuvenate the crowns that have been depleted of nutrients during the harvest season. In the fall after the ferns have yellowed, cut the foliage back to prevent overwintering of the asparagus beetles and rust in the crop. Harvest: Do not harvest the plants until they are well established – generally when they are 3 years old. Snap or cut spears when they are 8-10 inches tall but before the tips begin to open. Because asparagus crowns must have a rest period to rejuvenate before the next crop, stop harvesting when the emerging spears are about the diameter of a pencil or your little finger. A unique European production practice used by some market growers is to grow white asparagus called spargel in Germany. This method includes the exclusion of light when the spears are emerging. The absence of light inhibits photosynthesis and thereby the production of chlorophyll which produces the green color. Using inverted 5 gallon buckets work well in small plantings. The white spears are more tender and have a milder flavor than the traditional green spears. Keep in mind that by eliminating the production of chlorophyll, white asparagus will not have the nutritive value found in its green counterpart. Pest Problems: Weeds are a problem in asparagus production. The primary weed problems are perennial weeds because this is a perennial crop. Avoid planting asparagus in beds infested with perennial weeds such as Canada thistle, quackgrass, and field bindweed or eliminate these weeds before planting. If you are plagued with perennial weeds in existing plantings, you can try using Round-up early in the spring before the spears emerge or in the fall after you’ve cut back the ferns. Mulching heavily with organic mulch will prevent the germination of annual weed seeds. If you plan to use compost as your source of mulch because it will also add nutrients to the soil, make sure the compost you use has been “hot composted” to kill any weed or crop seeds that may be present. Other pest problems include Fusarium wilt which will require you to move the bed to rejuvenate it and prevent future problems. Fusarium is a soil-borne fungus that can live in the soil almost indefinitely. It also infects many weed species which can serve as an alternate host to the disease. It will weaken the crowns thereby producing smaller spears. Rust is another disease that plagues asparagus. The ferns of rust-infected plants will defoliate prematurely or die back altogether so it’s best to plant rust resistant varieties. In addition to causing fern dieback, rust can also weaken the plant and predispose it to Fusarium if this fungus is present in the soil. Rust can be identified by small, yellow or orange spots that first appear on the tips of the plants. Later in the season, dusty brick-red pustules appear on both the shoots and the ferns. Rust is most severe in years with heavy rains or high humidity. The incidence of rust can be reduced by cutting back the ferns in the fall and burning them so the rust cannot complete its life cycle. Asparagus beetles are an annual insect pest of asparagus. The twelve spotted asparagus beetle is more common in Wisconsin than the common asparagus beetle. Injury first appears early in the spring on the emerging shoots. The insects feed on the shoots as they develop, causing them to bend in the direction in which the feeding damage occurs. Once the plant begins to fern, the beetle populations can increase to numbers that can totally defoliate plants if left unchecked. Common insecticides used to control asparagus beetles include Sevin, Dursban and Rotenone. ", "How to Grow Asparagus Asparagus is a perennial vegetable and once established can have a productive life of up to 15 years. The edible Asparagus spears are the young shoots which are produced in Spring. When harvesting for the season is finished, the shoots are allowed to grow to provide food for the underground root system (the crown). The shoots grow into attractive fern-like fronds which can reach heights of 1.5-2m under good conditions. In the winter the shoots die down and are cut at ground level. Growth recommences in late winter-spring when the spears emerge. Asparagus is frost tolerant and is quite easy to grow. It does well in the Perth metropolitan area and the South West. Planting: The prime requirement of Asparagus cultivation is well drained soil and it is best grown in a full sun position. It is a long term crop which will be in the same spot for years, so choose your site carefully. When Planting Potted Asparagus Plants: Potted plants can be planted year round. Improve the planting bed by blending in plenty of Dawson’s Soil Improver to at least a spades depth. Add a sprinkle of Dawson’s All Purpose Fertiliser or Eco Prime Garden. Potted Asparagus plants are usually seedlings and once planted should be left to grow for 2-3 years before you commence harvesting. When Planting Crowns: Asparagus crowns are usually only available in July-August and should be planted as soon as possible after purchase. Dig a trench 30-40cm deep and 30cm wide, then lay a 10-15cm layer of Dawson’s soil Improver and Cover this layer with a 5-10cm layer of improved soil. Then make a mound of soil along the centre of the trench. Crowns are planted top of the mound with roots spread out either side (the crowns should be placed so that they are about 10cm below the surface soil). Cover the crowns with about 5cm of soil, then gradually fill to soil level as the plant grows. Care: Asparagus should be fertilised with Dawson’s All Purpose fertiliser in Spring prior to the spears emerging and again when you have stopped harvesting spears. Asparagus requires a regular water supply and in Perth watering will be required from Spring until April-May. The idea being to try to maintain some soil moisture at all times while the fern is actively growing. To this end the application of a good quality, straw type surface mulch will greatly assist. In winter the shoots(fern) will start to yellow and die off, so cut the old shoots off at ground level. Harvesting: Spears can be harvested when they have grown about 15-25cm above ground level, they should be cut with a sharp knife just below ground level. No spears are cut during the first season of growth, this allows the crown to establish itself. In next spring (one year from planting) harvesting should be restricted to the thickest spears only. In later years you can cut most of the spears that emerge. Remember once spear size begins to fall off it’s best to allow the shoots to grow to provide food to fuel the crown for the next season. You need to harvest spears regularly several times a week or even daily as spears emerge very quickly and if left too long will start to fern out before you get to them. If you’d like to grow white Asparagus, you’ll need to mound soil up over the rows in late winter to a height of about 30cm and then harvest the spears as soon as the tips break through the of the surface. Varieties: Dawson’s sell UC157. Developed by the University of California. Known for very high yields, UC157 is suitable to growth in warmer areas with mild winters. Smooth green spears, tight tipped, non stringy. The plant has tall feathery, graceful stems. It is the most commonly grown commercial variety world-wide. Prepared by Tim Parker. Acknowledgments to P & J Frost in the preparation of this Fact sheet.", "Growing Asparagus Asparagus is a good source of vitamins A, C, and minerals and is a highly productive vegetable when grown in cooler areas. Below is a quick guide for growing asparagus. Category Directions and Notes Location • Cool area. Soil • Grows well in high pH soils but does not do well if pH is below 6. • New beds: till in 2-3 lbs of 6-12-12 fertilizer (or similar) per 20 feet of row. • Established beds: scatter 1-2 lbs of 6-12-12 fertilizer per 20 feet of row before growth begins in the spring. Planting Directions • Spread a 3” layer of organic matter (manure, rotted sawdust or compost) over the planned planting area. • Till or spade to a depth of 10-12” and turn the soil so all organic matter is covered. After tilling, mark rows 4-6’ apart. • Dig a furrow 4” wide and 6-12” deep. • Place the crowns in the furrow, cover with 2-3” of soil and firm the soil around the roots. Do not fill the entire furrow at once. Plant crowns 6-12” deep in loose soils and 4-6” in heavier soils. Place crowns 12-14” apart. • Fill the furrows gradually as the shoots grow. This covers small weeds, and they die from lack of light. By the end of the first season, the furrow reaches its normal level. Maintenance • Asparagus plants like frequent, deep watering. Allow the top 1” of soil to dry before watering again. • Control weeds without damaging the spears. Harvesting • Harvest spears when they are 4-10” long. • Cut asparagus spears 1-2” inches below the soil level. At least ½ the length of the spear should be above the ground. Never cut the spear within 2” of the crown to avoid damage to the developed buds. • Harvest asparagus spears from established beds for about 8 weeks. Do not harvest too soon from a new planting. • Discontinue harvest when spear diameter becomes less than 3/8”. • After the last harvest, cut back all top growth. Apply fertilizer and till lightly 1-2” inches to kill weeds. Cover the bed with a 3” layer of clean straw, compost or other mulch material, water thoroughly and allow growing the rest of the year. This helps ensure a good harvest the next year. Special Notes • An asparagus planting lasts 15 to 25 years without replanting if it is well cared for and the climate is suitable. • Asparagus is grown from 1-year-old plants or ""crowns"". It requires 3 years from the time the crown is planted until the bed is in full production. Since an asparagus planting lasts many years, good planting bed preparation is essential. Varieties • Jersey Giant Murray’s Info Sheets P.O. BOX 601, 1525 PORTUGAL COVE ROAD, PORTUGAL COVE, NL, CANADA A1M 3R6 TEL: (709) 895-2800 • FAX: (709) 895-1000 • E-MAIL: murrays@nl.rogers.com • www.murraysgardens.com", "Growing Asparagus for more info: Toll Free 1800 335 508 www.seasol.com.au When to plant Asparagus can be grown in all regions, but does best in areas with long, cold winters and mild summers. Check with your hardware or garden centre for advice on the suitability of asparagus to your location. 1. Asparagus can be sown from seed, it is the cheapest option, but take three to four years from germination to harvest. 2. For a quicker harvest, asparagus is usually planted in winter when it is available as a crown, the name given to the dormant root system. 3. Potted plants are also available from spring to autumn and are ready to plant directly into a prepared garden bed. Location • Once established asparagus can grow and crop for 25 years or more so it’s ideal to plant them in their own garden bed. • Plants grow best in a full sun position in soil that holds moisture well, sheltered from wind. • Too much shade causes asparagus to become spindly with fewer and thinner spears. Soil Asparagus enjoys well-drained sandy or loamy soil, with pH of around 6.5 to 7.0. Prepare the soil prior to planting by digging in well-rotted manure and compost or apply Seasol Liquid Compost. Some growers recommend planting asparagus into a trench with a layer of well-rotted manure in its base. Cover manure with a 5cm layer of soil to keep asparagus out of direct contact with manure. A soil rich in nutrients helps build strong plants so add Seasol Plant + Soil Booster (100g per m2 ) and a fertiliser such as PowerFeed Controlled Release Tomatoes & Vegetables. Water in well and let the soil rest for a week or two if possible. *Check application rates on product labels or go to the Seasol website. Asparagus is a perennial vegetable that dies down in winter and regrows each spring. It is part of its own asparagus family (Asparagaceae) but was formerly considered part of the lily family, which also includes onions garlic and leeks. Asparagus is native across much of Europe. The edible part of asparagus is the new shoot known as a ‘spear’. Left unharvested, it forms clumps of tall, woody, cane-like growth with ferny leaves. Asparagus spears are low in calories but high in folates, dietary fibre and vitamins A, C and K. It can be eaten raw, steamed, or grilled. 2 Planting crowns (the easiest and most popular) Planting potted plants 3 Planting from seed 1 Second year’s growth 5 Third year’s growth 6 Asparagus harvest 7 First year’s growth 4 LIFE CYCLE OF ASPARAGUS for more info: Toll Free 1800 335 508 www.seasol.com.au *Check application rates on product labels or go to the Seasol website. • Plant crowns in winter, burying them in the base of a 30cm-deep trench. • Alternatively dig a hole for each crown that’s about 30cm deep and wide enough to accommodate the crown’s root system. • Space crowns about 45cm apart then cover with about 5-10cm of soil. As the crown begins to grow, cover it with more soil until the trench is filled to encourage deep roots. • Apply a layer of mulch to protect them from cold and frost and once growth appears water them in with Seasol or Seasol GOLD for a strong root development and healthy growth. 2. Planting crowns • To plant potted plants, simply dig a hole in well-prepared soil that’s large enough to accommodate the root system. Plant so the base of the plant is well covered with soil. • Make a shallow depression around the plant to capture run-off and help to keep the plant well watered. • Water in with Seasol or Seasol GOLD to reduce transplant shock and aid plant establishment and mulch around the plant. • Apply a liquid fertiliser such as PowerFeed PRO Series for Tomatoes & Vegetables every couple of weeks to promote strong, robust growth and thick stems. 3. Planting potted plants Growing Asparagus 1. Planting from seed 4. First year’s growth • Fill a pot or seed tray with potting mix or seed raising mix and sprinkle with asparagus seeds over the top. • Cover the seeds with mix and water in with Seasol or Seasol GOLD for fast germination. • Pop the the pot or tray in a sheltered position, keep the soil moist and protect from pests like snails and birds. • When the seedlings are about 10-12cm high, plant them in well-prepared soil as above. Take care not to disturb the roots. • Every two weeks apply PowerFeed PRO SERIES for Tomatoes and Vegetables for strong, healthy growth. • Choose only male asparagus plants for cultivation (see notes on male and female plants). • Shoots (spears) appear in spring but don’t plan to eat fresh asparagus just yet. Leave shoots to grow to help form strong roots for good future crops. • Over spring and summer check soil moisture daily and apply Seasol and PowerFeed PRO Series for Tomatoes & Vegetables every two weeks for strong, vigorous growth and to reduce stress from heat and drought. • Hold off harvesting for the first two years and apply organic mulch to keep soil cool. • Keep plants well weeded through summer and apply PowerFeed Controlled Release for Tomatoes & Vegetables every 6-8 weeks to ensure strong growth. for more info: Toll Free 1800 335 508 www.seasol.com.au *Check application rates on product labels or go to the Seasol website. 5. Second year’s growth 6. Third year’s growth • Plants will start to yellow off in the first autumn after planting. • Without harvest, plants produce stems of ferny growth. By autumn the stems will yellow and begin to die back. • Stems can be pruned in late autumn as the plants become dormant. • If stems are too thin it could be a case of not enough water or nutrients. Check soil moisture and remove weeds by topping up with organic mulch ready for next year’s growth. Things to watch out for... Well grown, asparagus has few pests or disease problems. Problems that can occur include: • Thin stems These indicate a lack of nutrients or water. Improve spear quality by applying a complete fertiliser, adding a mulch of rotted manure and increasing the amount and frequency of water. • Poor soil drainage In heavy clay soil grow asparagus in raised beds to avoid problems with water logging or root rot. • Over watering If plants and leaves are yellow it could be a sign they are being over watered. Refrain from watering and check soil before applying more. • At the end of winter start to prepare for the first spring harvest and the formation of long spears by hilling soil over the rows. • Watch for the spears to appear and harvest the thickest. Leave the rest to mature as ferny growth. • In cool areas, produce an autumn crop by cutting mature growth to ground level in late summer. • Spears appear from August until September (or later in cool climates) and can be harvested for up to 10 to 12 weeks from well-established plants. Growing Asparagus Male and female plants • Female plants have thin stems and form green berries that ripen to red berries in late summer. • Male plants have thicker stems and don’t form berries. They are selected for cultivation. • If asparagus is raised from seed, both male and female plants will grow. Cull female plants after their first flowering and allow male plants to grow for a better crop. 7. Asparagus harvest • Expect to harvest spears every two to three days from each plant during peak the peak growing season. • Use a long, sharp knife to harvest asparagus spears cutting below ground once the spears protrude 10-15cm above the soil. • Cut spears each day as they’ll quickly become tall and woody. • After harvest, feed with PowerFeed Controlled Release Plant Food Tomatoes & Vegetables for strong ferny growth that feeds the crown. • Keep plants well-watered (especially if summers are dry) and free of weeds. • Yellowing leaves in late summer and autumn indicate that plants are dying back. Cut plants back to ground level. Regrowth and harvesting will begin again in late winter and spring.", "", "Page 1 © 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents Growing Asparagus Rhoda Burrows | Professor & SDSU Extension Horticulture Specialist David Graper | SDSU Extension Horticulture Specialist & Master Gardener Program Coordinator gardens SOUTH DAKOTA STATE UNIVERSITY ® AGRONOMY, HORTICULTURE & PLANT SCIENCE DEPARTMENT UPDATED FEBRUARY 2019 Many look forward to fresh asparagus each spring. Once established, this perennial vegetable is relatively easy to grow; in fact, it often thrives in roadside ditches or abandoned farmsteads in the higher rainfall areas of the state. An asparagus bed in good soil can easily last 15 years or longer. There are a number of asparagus species, but only one, Asparagus officinalis L., is cultivated for food. Not only is it low in calories, asparagus is an excellent source of vitamin A and contains significant amounts of calcium, phosphorus, riboflavin, and vitamin C as well. In past centuries, it was sometimes prescribed as a gentle diuretic and kidney tonic. Edible asparagus is native to Europe, and has been cultivated for over 2000 years. An ancient Roman author, Cato the Elder, in 200 B.C. wrote detailed directions for growing asparagus that are close to current recommendations. In South Dakota, the eastern end of the state and the Black Hills are two areas where asparagus can be grown most successfully, but other areas can grow it if extra attention is paid to watering during dry spells, and hardy varieties are used. Climatic Requirements During the growing season, warm days and cool nights with low relative humidity are preferred. Asparagus produces best when temperatures during harvest range from 78° to 85°F during the day and 55° to 65° at night. To be productive, the asparagus plant needs a long rest period (dormancy); this can be met by cold winter temperatures or a prolonged period of drought. Cultivars vary in winter hardiness (see below), but there are a number that will do well in our state. Site Selection Asparagus needs full sun for good production. Good soil drainage is also essential - the highest yields are obtained on deep sandy loams, since asparagus roots may extend six feet deep. Heavy soils that form a crust after rain or irrigation can damage the emerging spears. A soil pH of 6.5 to 7.0 is best, but asparagus is quite tolerant of higher pH soils and salinity. The bed or field should be fairly level to avoid soil erosion, and avoid low-lying areas subject to late spring frosts that could delay harvest and reduce yield. The soil should be free from stones, which can cause crooked spears. The field should also be free of perennial weeds, which are difficult to control as there are few herbicides available for newly planted asparagus. To avoid root and crown diseases, choose an area that has not been in asparagus for the last eight years. Varieties Mary Washington and Viking are perhaps the two varieties that have been most readily available to home growers through mass markets, although newer hybrids such as “Jersey Giant” are becoming more common. It is worthwhile to seek out these newer varieties, such as the male hybrids “Jersey Giant” or the even higher-yielding “Jersey King.” These hybrids have been Page 2 © 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents developed to have greater disease resistance and higher yield, along with good cold hardiness, and have done well in trials in North Dakota and Minnesota. A newer male variety that has greatly out-yielded other varieties in many northern trials (including Saskatchewan), and has also done well in heavier soils, is “Guelph Millennium”. It tends to emerge about a week later in the spring than other varieties, which can help it to avoid spring frosts, and the spears stay tight in high temperatures, so that it maintains good quality over a range of conditions. Growers may also want to consider the novel variety “Purple Passion”, which has performed well in Iowa trials. It may have special consumer appeal with its purplish-colored, tender, large-diameter spears. Avoid varieties bred in California, such as UC 157, as they are not hardy enough for us. Plant options Asparagus production beds are most often established from 1-yr-old crowns which are purchased or grown from seed. Direct-seeding is not recommended, but transplants grown in a greenhouse or protected area can also be used for planting the permanent bed. One-year-old crowns (Fig. 1) are more vigorous and have greater productivity as compared to 2- or 3-year-old crowns that suffer more root damage during digging, which may reduce quality. Good-quality crowns weigh about 1.5 pounds per 10 crowns. Fig. 1 One-year-old crown. Growing Crowns Crowns can be produced from seed in a separate bed for later transplanting. If producing your own crowns, choose soil that is well-drained, deep, loose, and light. Generally, one acre of seedlings will produce enough crowns for ten acres of asparagus. There are 900-1200 seeds per ounce. One ounce of seed can produce 550 high-quality crowns. You can figure out how many crowns you need and plant the seed accordingly. For example: Area per plant: 4 ft. row spacing x 1.5 ft. between plants = 6 square feet Plants per acre: 43,560 (square feet per acre) / 6 ft per plant = 7,260 plants per acre To hasten germination, soak the seed for 48 to 96 hours in warm water before planting; change the water several times a day to avoid fungal growth. It is also advisable to use a seed fungicide before planting. Plant seed ½ inch deep, 2-3 inches apart in rows that are 24-30 inches apart. Optimal temperatures for germination are 60-85 degrees F. Cultivate during the growing season to control weeds. When seedlings are one year old, they may be transplanted to their permanent location. Dig the crowns in the spring before the buds begin to grow. Old plant tops can be mowed if they interfere with the digging. A modified potato digger or moldboard plow can be used to lift crowns from larger plantings. Transplant production An alternative to planting one-year-old crowns is to use transplants, which can be grown in a greenhouse. To do this, seed can be treated as above, but then seeded into peat pots filled with a good potting media (not field soil). Plant two seeds per pot, and thin to one after emergence. Transplants can be started either in the early spring for setting out after danger of frost has passed, or in late summer for transplanting in mid-September. Transplant when seedlings are 10 to 12 weeks old into the permanent bed prepared as for crowns: Pots should be covered with at least one inch of soil at the time of planting in the furrows, and the furrows filled in gradually over the season as with crowns. If peat pots are used, when planting be sure none of the pot is exposed above the soil as it can act as a wick, drying out the plant. A transplant starter fertilizer solution should be applied at the time of planting. Planting crowns Discard any small or badly injured crowns. Sort crowns according to size. Plant crowns of the same size in a row to avoid competition for food. If needed, crowns can be stored at 38°-40°F and 85-90% humidity until planting. Do not allow them to freeze. To avoid decay, Page 3 © 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents the crowns should not have any damp or moist areas on them during storage. Before planting, dip the crown in a recommended fungicide solution. Before planting the crowns, prepare the land so the soil is free of stumps, rocks and other coarse debris that might cause crooked spears. Any existing weeds should be controlled; spraying any perennial weeds with a glyphosate herbicide (for example, RoundUp or KleenUp) two to three weeks before planting is recommended. Open the planting furrow to a depth of 8-10 inches (8 inches in heavier soils). Position the crowns, upright with the roots spreading (Fig 2), in the furrow about 8 inches below ground level and then cover with about two inches of soil. Close spacing may be practiced in the home garden, but when planting half an acre or more, space rows 3 to 4 ½ ft with plants 12-18 inches apart in the row. Fig. 2 Planting crowns in furrow As the crowns grow, gradually work the soil toward the plants during cultivation until the furrow is entirely filled. Be careful not to bury the ferns. Each cultivation should add about 2 inches of soil over the crowns. Approximately three cultivations should cover the crowns and completely fill the furrow (Fig 3). Shallowplanted crowns often are injured by spring frosts or by disking and produce smaller spears. Deeply planted crowns produce larger spears that emerge later in the spring. Fig. 3 Young shoots Fertilizer Because asparagus may occupy the land for 15-20 years, good soil preparation before planting is important. If possible, apply 5-10 tons of good farmyard manure per acre or plow down a green manure crop in the fall. Otherwise apply 600-1,000 pounds of 8-32-16 per acre (20 lbs per 1,000 square feet or ½ lb per 10 ft of row) before planting. A soil test (0-12”) is the best way to determine fertilizer needs, as some soils may require only additional nitrogen. Once the crop comes into production, commercial growers should test the soil at least every other year for phosphorus and potassium. Broadcast any needed fertilizer and then either water in or work into the soil by shallow cultivation. The crop will also require about 50 lbs of nitrogen (about 140 lbs of 35-0-0) per acre each year after planting. Regardless of the general fertilizer practice, it is desirable to split the nitrogen application, applying half of the recommended amount in the early spring before growth starts and half at the end of the harvest season. For smaller plantings, apply ½ cup of ammonium nitrate [35-0-0] per 10 ft row in early spring and again after harvest. The second application enhances vegetative growth and carbohydrate accumulation which results in a higher yield the following year as well as improved plant vigor to survive the winter. Page 4 © 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents Cultivation Keep the field free of weeds. The spears are less brittle in the afternoon and cultivation is best done at that time. Once the plants are established, weeding problems can be reduced by using herbicides in the rows. Use a windbreak to shield spears from wind which can damage spears by blasting the spear with soil particles, or by retarding growth on the windward side of the spear, causing them to become crooked or misshapened. Leave the ferns standing in the field in winter months to help trap snow, which can help insulate the roots and crowns from low temperatures. In the early spring before the shoots develop, cut, and burn the old ferns (to reduce insects and disease) or disk them into the soil. Harvest Do not harvest the first two years after planting, and then limit harvest in the third year to 2-4 weeks, depending on the vigor of the fern the previous season. Established fields may provide a yield of 2,000 to 4,000 pounds per acre (¾ to 1 pound per foot of row in a home garden), depending on climate and cultural practices. Snap spears by hand or cut 2 inches below ground level, at about a 45° angle, when they are 6-10 inches tall. Morning harvest is preferred because the spears then contain the maximum amount of water and stay fresh longer. Lignin fibers make asparagus tough and undesirable. The tip of the spear has less lignin and the amount increases toward the bottom. The following practices can reduce lignin in the spears: Snap asparagus, rather than cutting at ground level, thus leaving most of the fiber portion (white portion) of the spear in the field. During cold weather, harvest shorter spears; the longer it takes a spear to grow, the more fiber it develops. Do not harvest very small diameter (thin) spears; they have more fiber on a weight basis. Cool spears as quickly as possible after harvest in ice cold water. Store asparagus at less than 36°F, but do not allow it to freeze. Avoid water stress by wrapping asparagus in a wet material or in perforated plastic wrap, or store upright in a bowl with the stems in water. Do not store asparagus for more than 7-10 days. Crooked Spears Crooked spears generally are the result of dirt clods in the field, hot dry wind in early spring, or injury due to insects, frost, disking, or heavy soils. Avoid all these problems to produce straight, marketable spears. Irrigation To help plants become established, apply water at least for the first two years, if possible. Irrigation is not essential for established asparagus except in drier years or areas, but it will increase productivity (spear size and numbers) and longevity of the planting. Avoiding drought stress will also increase vigor and decrease risk of infection by Fusarium, a fungal crown rot. Male vs. Female Plants Asparagus is dioecious (male flowers on one plant and female flowers on another plant). Non-hybrid varieties will have about 5O% male and 5O% female plants, but many all-male hybrids are available. Female plants are less productive and have a shorter life because some of the plant’s energy is allocated to seed production in the fall. Male plants produce a larger number of spears, starting earlier in spring, but they often are thinner. Female plants produce fewer spears, but they are larger and are produced later in the season. Diseases and Problems Since fusarium root rot and crown rot eventually invade every planting, cultural methods that maintain the vigor of the plants will help prolong productivity. Fusarium root rot: The fungus lives in the soil and enters the plant through the roots. Plant asparagus in a field that did not have asparagus for the last eight years, and dip the crowns in recommended fungicide before planting. Keep the planting healthy by practicing good cultural methods. Rust: Cut and burn the tops in the spring, and use resistant varieties, such as the Jersey hybrids (Guelph Millennium is more prone to rust). Fungicides may be used in commercial plantings. Feathering: Bracts of the spears are partly spread as a result of high temperatures. Planning small-scale commercial production: Prospective growers should always assess their potential market before planting, as well as the presence of other growers nearby. Fresh locally-grown asparagus Page 5 © 2019, South Dakota Board of Regents sells out quickly at farmers markets across the state, and would be a great way to start a CSA season. Local restaurants may be interested in featuring this unique vegetable in spring menus. A grower within a 15-minute drive of a population base may also be able to successfully market as a “pick-your-own,” with about one acre per 5,000 urban dwellers. Asparagus also may be harvested and graded according to the specifications of the local supermarket and sold wholesale to them. For More Information • “Fertilizing Gardens in South Dakota” P-00082 https://extension.sdstate.edu/fertilizing-gardenssouth-dakota SDSU Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer in accordance with the nondiscrimination policies of South Dakota State University, the South Dakota Board of Regents and the United States Department of Agriculture. P-00078", "Reissued 2020-03-01 1 of 2 The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person in any of its programs or activities. See the complete Nondiscrimination Statement at ucanr.edu. November 19, 2011 Growing Asparagus Originally published in the Contra Costa Times by Chantal Guillemin, UC Master Gardener Crowns, whips and spears of asparagus...oh my! SUMMARY Advance planning and some patience can reward the home gardener with asparagus for many years. Site selection and preparation, cultivar selection, planting technique, disease control, and harvesting technique are all important considerations. Q: I am planning to grow asparagus this fall. How do I get started? A: A long-lived (8 to 15 years), salt and drought-tolerant vegetable from the lily family, asparagus has been cultivated for millennia on seaside dunes along the Mediterranean and in the British Isles. California has several asparagus growing regions including Contra Costa County. Asparagus is adaptable, yet it has specific soil, planting, irrigation and harvest requirements. Bed Preparation & Planting: Full sun, sandy soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.5, good drainage, no weeds, temperatures ranging from 65° to 85° F, and space are prerequisites for successful home garden asparagus production. Proper bed preparation and build-up of organic matter in the soil begins at least a year prior to planting. Select an area that is relatively free of weeds and that drains well such as a hillside, and condition your soil by turning in peat moss, leaf mold, straw, animal and green manures. Avoid soils with a high water table as this could lead to a short stand life due to unhealthy or diseased roots. October through March is the best time for planting transplants or crowns. After applying a little phosphate fertilizer in the trenches, plant one year old crowns with buds pointing upward in the bottom of a 6 to 8 inch deep furrow. Space crowns 12 inches apart, in rows 4 to 5 feet wide, and cover with 2 to 3 inches of soil. In six weeks, add another 3 inches. Continue to mound the soil over the plants as they develop to fill in and form a somewhat raised bed. To produce enough asparagus for fresh table use, plant ten crowns for each family member. Cultivar Selection: For an optimum disease-free start, select year-old field-grown crowns from a certified grower. In conjunction with the University of California, California Asparagus Seed and Transplants, Inc. in Davis has developed several hybrid cultivars which include UC 157 F1, Atlas F1, Apollo, Grande and Purple ccmg.ucanr.edu November 19, 2011: Growing Asparagus, page 2 Reissued 2020-03-01 2 of 2 “With planning, preparation and patience, home gardeners can grow and enjoy asparagus for many years.” Passion. These varieties differ in spear diameter (measured at the widest point of the spear), tip tightness, yields and tolerance to fusarium root rot, rust and other fungal diseases. Disease Control & Watering: Proper sanitation is an important tool in controlling asparagus fungal diseases. For prevention, remove the debris of the previous year’s fern and destroy or compost it to kill the over-wintering pathogens. Wide row spacing may also help to improve air movement and drying of the fern. Do not plant a second crop of crowns in an old asparagus bed because levels of fusarium are already high in that location. Severity of the disease can be reduced by starting out with non-infected one-year old crowns grown in uncontaminated soil, and practicing good irrigation management. Asparagus requires frequent furrow irrigations in the spring and near the soil surface at harvest time. Water applications are cut back in late summer and early fall to curtail new fern growth before winter dormancy. Harvesting & Post-Harvest Care: The main harvest season is in spring but some spears may be cut in September and October. Do not harvest asparagus the first growing season. Harvesting too early and too many results in weakened plants and small spears. The asparagus plant needs to grow and establish a healthy crown, requiring all its energy at first. The third year after transplanting, asparagus can be harvested for two weeks. A full cutting season (60 to 75 days) may begin the fourth year after planting. Harvest whenever the spears reach 8 to 10 inches, which, in warm weather, could be every day. Cut at ground level or snap the spears, taking care not to damage the emerging ones. When the harvest season is finished, allow spears to mature into energyproducing ferns (foliage). Do not prune or cut back the ferns as doing this could jeopardize the yield and quality of next season’s growth. Immediate post-harvest care such as washing and cooling can slow fibrous development and the loss of natural sugar, flavor and Vitamin C in asparagus spears. Whips, the small diameter spears, are usually tougher than the wide diameter spears. This is because the tough fibers are in the skin. For More Information: With planning, preparation and patience, home gardeners can grow and enjoy asparagus for many years. For more info on growing asparagus, consult UC publication 7234, available online at: https://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/7234.pdf", "1 Asparagus Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a member of the Lily Family and is a perennial vegetable that can thrive in the home garden for 25 years or more when properly cared for. Because an asparagus bed will last for many years, it is wise to plant only carefully selected, disease-free roots. Check with your supplier for new varieties. Soil Preparation: Asparagus can be grown in a variety of soil types but best results are generally obtained on well-drained, sandy loam soils. Frost and light freezes injure emerged spears, therefore, locate the crop in areas that are as frost-free as possible. Because of the length of time the land is occupied by an asparagus bed, it is very important that the soil be of high fertility and in good physical condition before the plants are set. Lime & Fertilizing Asparagus will not tolerate extreme acidity, and should be grown on soil with a pH range of 6.5 – 7.0. Have your soil tested by the UMass Soil and Tissue Testing Lab (www.umass.edu/soiltest) and follow the recommendations given. Strongly acid soils should be limed according to recommendations. In addition to organic matter and line, 1.2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer should be broadcast per 100 square feet prior to planting. Natural Fertilizers Natural fertilizers can be effective when the right choice is made from the many types available. Planting Asparagus plants or crowns are grown from seed. However, the home gardener will usually find it best to grow asparagus from one-year-old crown bought from a reputable grower. Never use two or three-year-old crowns. Two-year-old crops may have been over-crowded in the nursery with intertwined roots and are much more subject to injury when dug and sorted. Therefore, use only one-year-old plants. The crowns should have large, well developed root systems with large, well developed buds. Asparagus should be planted with other perennial crops on the north or east side of the garden so it will not shade other vegetables or low-growing fruits. Follow these steps for planting asparagus: - Apply recommended amounts of lime and fertilizer to the asparagus bed. - Rototill into the soil. - Make a 6-inch deep, V-shaped furrow. - Place crowns at the bottom of the furrow with the buds on top and the roots spread out. 2 Space crowns twelve inches apart within the row and allow four to five feet between rows. If only one asparagus row is planted, allow at least three feet between the asparagus and the closest other vegetable crop. - Cover the crowns with one or two inches of soil and firm over the roots. As soon as the young shoots (spears) appear, carefully add more soil around plants in furrow, but avoid covering asparagus foliage. When spears grow 10 to 12 inches high cultivate or hoe beds in order to partially fill the trench and control weeds. Repeat this procedure two or three more times until the trench is finally filled. The furrow should be filled level by the end of the first growing season. Watering Adequate soil moisture is important during the first growing season. Water thoroughly once a week until the soil is moistened 8 to 12 inches deep. After the first growing season, asparagus plants do not require frequent irrigation because of the deep and extensive root system. They should be watered if long, dry periods occur, however. Annual Maintenance For the first and second year after planting do not cut any spears in order to allow the plants to become well established. Early in the spring of the second growing season, remove the old stalks and overwintering weeds. Broadcast lime as needed to maintain the proper soil pH. Before the spears appear, apply 1.2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet and cultivate lightly into the soil. In July of the second growing season, sidedress with another 1.2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 20 linear feet of row. Prevent burning the roots by applying it three to four inches away from the plants. Remove brush during each succeeding spring before the asparagus emerges and broadcast lime if needed. At the same time, spread 2.5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rake the fertilizer and lime one to two inches into the soil, taking care to avoid damage to the asparagus crowns. Weed Control Weeds shade asparagus, compete for water and nutrients, and reduce yield. Cultivate to control weeds when the weeds are small, in order to avoid damage to crowns. Asparagus can always be mulched to control weeds. Use organic materials such as leaves and straw. It is important to control weeds right from the start to prevent problems in the future. Pests The principal insect pests are cutworms and asparagus beetles. Common disease include fusarium root-rot and asparagus rot. Avoid fusarium root-rot by planting only disease-free seeds or crowns and never plant in beds that previously grew asparagus. Other Problems Problem: Asparagus tough and pithy Cause: Insufficient fertilizer; poor soil preparation, low pH; spears are getting to old before cutting. 3 Problem: Crooked spears Cause: Injury to buds and immature shoots underground; careless cutting; or cutworms Problem: Plant vigor declines, spear size decreases, feeder roots are reddish brown color Cause: Fusarium root-rot Problem: Tips soft and whitish in color Cause: Frost or light freeze injury Harvesting Asparagus must be grown in a permanent bed for two full growing seasons before harvest begins. This is necessary to allow the plants to develop an adequate storage root system to produce spears during the first harvest season and beyond. Any harvesting or damage to the brush during the first two growing seasons dwarfs the plants and can be reduce yields for the life of the bed. A good general rule for length of harvest season is the 2-4-6 week sequence. Harvest for two weeks the third year the plants are in the garden, four weeks the fourth year, and six weeks the fifth and following years. When the first spears emerge in the spring, merely snap off the spears with tight heads, 7 to 10 inches long, leaving the tough stub on the plant. The upper portion that snaps off should be green and tender. Harvest all spears that come up during the harvest season. Two to three weeks after beginning harvest, 5 to 6 inches of soil may be carefully ridged over the row. This lowers the temperature around the crown and increases spear size. The ridge should be raked level right after the last harvest. It is best to prepare and use asparagus as soon as possible after harvesting. However, asparagus will maintain fairly good quality for several days if the spears are kept at 35-40F. To store, was the spears, place the cut ends in a shallow pan of water and immediately put them in the refrigerator. UMass Extension Agriculture and Landscape Program 4/12 UMass Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer, United States Department of Agriculture cooperating. Contact your local Extension office for information on disability accommodations. Contact the State Extension Director’s Office if you have concerns related to discrimination, 413-545-4800 or see www.extension.umass.edu/civilrights/.", " 3352 N Service Dr. Red Wing, MN 55066 www.sargentsnursery.com P: 651-388-3847 E: sargents@sargentsnursery.com Growing Asparagus Resource: UMN Extension Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis L.) is one of the earliest producing vegetables each spring. It is dioecious, meaning that there are female and male plants, but only female plants produce berries. Generally, female plants produce larger spears, and male plants produce a greater number of smaller diameter, more uniform spears. Most of the newer hybrids, such as Jersey Giant, are all male plants, producing no seeds. Asparagus is a perennial plant that comes back from the same expanding root system every year, and needs the rest period that freezing winters provide. A bed of asparagus can last 15 years or more, so choose the bed site carefully. Choose a fertile, sunny, well-drained site with good moisture. Late spring frosts can kill emerged spears, so find an area that is not low-lying or susceptible to frost. Because asparagus plants have deep root systems, avoid areas with shallow soils or soils prone to water-saturation. Common varieties are the older Washington series (Mary, Martha, and Waltham), the newer hybrids such as the Jersey series (Giant, Knight, Prince), and an open-pollinated variety called Viking KB-3. Although all of these varieties have done well in Minnesota, the Jersey series can suffer winter kill in northern Minnesota at –30° F if there is inadequate snow cover. PLANTING Asparagus can be started from seeds in a nursery bed, and then transplanted to its final location in the second year. Use seed with a high germination rate, plant seed as soon as soil is workable, into level ground with sandy soil about one inch deep and spaced about two inches apart within rows. In the next year, dig crowns in early April before buds start to grow, and transplant them to the desired location. Direct seeding is not recommended because it would be difficult to establish a good stand due to slow seed germination and competition from weeds. Alternatively, purchased crowns can be planted. Most people plant asparagus from purchased crowns because this is easier and you get a crop at least one year earlier than if planting seeds. If buying crowns, try to purchase ones that are one-year old. Older crowns can be damaged during transplanting. Plant crown buds upward in a trench or furrow, about 12-18 inches apart and 6-8 inches deep. Cover the crowns with 2-3 inches of soil immediately after planting to keep them from drying out, and then continue to add soil as the shoots emerge, until eventually the furrow is filled by the end of the first growing season. Asparagus crowns will continue to enlarge both vertically and horizontally over several years so planting at the appropriate depth is critical. The consequences of planting too shallowly could result in premature spear emergence in the spring increasing risk of freeze damage, and winter kill of the crown. SOIL PH AND FERTILITY It grows best in soils with pH of 6.5-7.0, and does not tolerate extreme acid soils. Have your soil tested to determine its pH and whether you need to amend it. It is best to test soil at least every 3 years and follow test recommendations. You can add some well-rotted manure or compost, or a garden fertilizer. In the second and third years after planting, you can incorporate well-rotted manure, compost or fertilizer in the spring prior to spear development, and again as the soil warms up. Addition of manure or compost can add micronutrients and organic matter to soil (see Composting and Mulching). After the planting is established, it is generally unnecessary to add fertilizer until after harvest because the root system can store large amounts of nutrients. WATERING Adequate soil moisture is necessary at planting for good root and fern development. Although asparagus plants have deep roots, most of the water uptake takes place in the top 6-12 inches of soil. Asparagus plants will not show signs of drought stress, so use extra care to ensure that there is adequate water during the growing season. CONTROLLING WEEDS Eliminate all perennial weeds before planting crowns. Annual weeds can be managed using shallow cultivation and by adding 3-4 inches of mulch on top of beds. Do not till soil more than 3-4 inches deep to avoid damaging feeder roots. HARVESTING Asparagus needs 3 years to develop a large root system. Spears may be harvested for two weeks the season after it is planted and up to four weeks the 2nd year. A full harvest is ok in the 3rd year. Leave the old asparagus ferns until spring before chopping or mowing them. After spears appear, harvest when they are 6-8 inches long. Snap spears off at the soil surface. Do not cut the spears because of the danger of damaging neighboring spears not yet emerged. Allow spears remaining after July 1 to develop into ferns. COMMON PROBLEMS Insects The most common insect pests on asparagus in Minnesota are the common and spotted asparagus beetle. They primarily damage asparagus by feeding on the spears resulting in browning and scarring. The feeding can also cause asparagus shoots to bend over into a shepherd’s crook. Diseases Common diseases of asparagus include asparagus crown rot, asparagus rust , and purple spot. Asparagus rust causes yellow to rusty orange spots to form on asparagus stems after harvest. These release powdery orange spores that can easily be seen if a white tissue is rubbed across the infected stem. Purple spot causes sunken purple spots on asparagus spears, and tan spots with a purple border on mature stems. Plants suffering from crown rot have poor growth; leaves and stems may yellow and die back. When cut open infected crowns are brown and decayed. If rust or purple spot appears in the garden remove and destroy all fronds after the first hard frost in the fall. Plant new asparagus plants far enough apart so that there is room for good air circulation around mature plants.",