Jonathan Gold for The Times Campanile closing? The dining scene loses a standard-setter The restaurant business is remarkably volatile, and anyone who has spent much time around it is used to seeing his or her favorites sputter out of business after good long runs. You grow up going to Angeli, you have your first date there, you become a regular when you get your first grown-up job, and - boom, it's gone. Your favorite chef meets a payroll he can't handle; your favorite bar turns into a shul. It's sad, but it's understood. Industriel's aggravating fusion Industriel, it should be mentioned, is a restaurant that can leave a certain kind of person sputtering with rage. It is decorated in a kind of Depression chic, for one thing. Walls are paneled with old wooden soda crates. Banquettes are upholstered in a gold vinyl you may have never seen outside cocktail lounges attached to ancient Midwestern bowling alleys. And the not-unplentiful homeless people on the street outside are confronted with the enormous blowups of Dorothea Lange's photographs of starving Depression-era migrant workers that flank the doors. Casual crazy vibe at Sycamore Kitchen The atmosphere at Sycamore Kitchen is relaxed, but make no mistake: The husband-and-wife team behind the restaurant obsesses over every detail of every dish. August 11, 2012 Shunji is no ordinary sushi bar Shunji Japanese Cuisine, from chef Shunji Nakao, is located in what looks like a big chili bowl but is upscale and inventive, with special attention paid to vegetables. Red Hill brings a folky modernism to Echo Park At modern Mo-Chica, the alpaca question The Pikey, simply a pub with better food Pulling back from the whole gastropub scene, the Pikey offers three beers on tap, food kicked up a notch with fresh ingredients and a little imagination, and an atmosphere even an Iron Maiden roadie could appreciate. Maison Giraud in Pacific Palisades At Maison Giraud, the croissants are as good if not better than ones you'd find in Paris. Alain Giraud may be the last true French chef standing in Los Angeles. With foie gras ban, chefs say state is force-feeding morality A law against serving the fatted liver of ducks and geese goes into effect Sunday. As some restaurants host farewell dinners, a gaggle of chefs, farmers and connoisseurs sees it as a feather-headed intrusion on culinary freedom. Umamicatessen in downtown L.A. A wealth of imagination is on the menu at the multi-kitchen restaurant: Rethink that pastrami sandwich, a bourbon cocktail, the PB&J. A little crunch with your Chianti at Tar & Roses Wine is important at Andrew Kirschner's new restaurant, but so is the food, starting with the lardon- and chile-laced popcorn appetizer. From there, it's a serious but playful mix of wood-fired small-plate temptations. Bombs away at Wang Xing Ji Have you ever been frightened by a dumpling? Truly, genuinely scared? Because the juicy crab and pork buns at Wang Xing Ji - smoking-hot dumplings the size of water balloons, sneakily full of boiling juice - could probably be weaponized. Cooks County, fresher than modern At the new restaurant from chef Daniel Mattern and pastry chef Roxana Jullapat, it's not a dish you fall in love with, it's a sensibility. LàOn Dining LàOn Dining, from Jenee Kim (Park's BBQ, Don Dae Gam), offers 'Korean tapas.' Whatever you call the food, this may be L.A.'s first modern Korean restaurant. Los Angeles' reflection in a plate Once every four years, always on Feb. 29, the downtown L.A. restaurant Border Grill becomes for an evening a reprise of City Restaurant, the La Brea Avenue dining room that launched its chefs, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, to fame 25 years ago.