Margot Henderson's tips for feeding a crowd this Christmas One trick, when feeding the masses, is to make the "centrepiece" of the meal something that can be cooked in advance - like the succulent pork shoulder, cooked slowly (or overnight), which slides away from the bone. Serve it with a big tray of roasted potatoes and fennel, and, for a festive nod, roasted brussels sprouts with chestnuts. Or forget the rest and do hot pork sandwiches. "Personally I always prefer sitting down to eat," she says, "as I think it's easier when everyone has a 'place." But there are going to be times when space is an issue, so think about little bowls of something they can hold in their hands and still move freely about. This is where Margot's tender squid and potato casserole comes in. It's cosy and satisfying, but with a herby, brothy consistency that's light on the stomach. It's cheap, too, when you're having lots of people, and a good way of doing fish without trying to pull off individual portions, which can be tricky. Or there's the classic buffet option. "I do a lot of buffets, but I think it's a shame when plates get piled with things that don't really complement each other," she says. You can control that, though, by grouping things properly. It doesn't have to be a huge, four-course affair. I love Margot's idea of a "toast party" - serving rillettes, pâté, wonderful cheeses, arranged with "plenty of bits for everyone to help themselves." "I think if you do something with passion, and get good quality produce, the simplest of meals will have a sense of occasion," she says. Right through Christmas, if we're not getting out the cards for a game of Canasta, we sit around the table, talking for hours. We never quite manage to go for a walk afterwards! We can't drag ourselves away from each other. Or the cheese. OK, it's the cheese. Margot's tips for feeding a crowd Create a sense of anticipation with a cocktail in people's hands as soon as they arrive. We get through lots of champagne, Negronis (gin, Campari, Punt e Mes and orange slices, on ice) and Kir Royales, which have a great festive feel. Make sure the dishwasher is empty before you sit down to eat, and do all the fiddly things like scraping out the candlesticks in advance. Have a supply of little gem lettuce in the fridge at all times; it's a great way to use leftovers, with a simple mustardy vinaigrette. Add anything - shredded confit duck legs, made the day before, with lentils and pickled vegetables, smoked mackerel and watercress or artichokes and mint, for a quick, light meal. Don't worry about rules. You can use little paper catering cups for soups or casseroles; they can be attractive with the right garnish. Never say no to offers of help - we're all used to saying "no, it's fine," but the reality is nobody minds, and the more relaxed the hosts, the more everyone else enjoys themselves. Keep clearing the decks as you go, then stand back and reassess where you are. Don't make too many dishes, or anything with too many ingredients. For New Year, we usually do something in a pot - a big risotto, if we have the time to watch it, or a beef and carrot stew. Make a big feature out of one food type. A cheeseboard can go a long way. I think it's better to celebrate one or two, rather than put out lots of small pieces. My favourites are the goat's cheese Rocamadour, British cheddars like Keen's and Montgomery's, creamy, unctuous Wigmore, Brie and Berkswell, a beautiful hard cheese with a gentle, nutty flavour. 'You're All Invited" by Margot Henderson (Penguin, RRP £25) is available from Telegraph Books at £23 + £1.35 p & p. Call 0844 871 1516 or visit books.telegraph.co.uk