A Review of Härth, in Rye Brook IT has been years since going to a restaurant in a hotel typically meant suffering through mediocre fare designed mainly for the convenience of those staying there. Still, I cringed a little upon entering the Hilton Westchester in Rye Brook to go to its new restaurant, Härth, despite an attractive renovation that has opened up the space and made it more inviting. I smelled the chlorine of the indoor pool, saw the hotel's generic welcome desk and thought, this isn't promising. But once I entered the restaurant, on the far end of the main floor, my experience began to shift. The hostess was welcoming. The table and cushioned chairs were big and unusually comfortable. Floor-to-ceiling windows framed a tranquil landscape, and the wood-burning oven, right in the dining room, promised tasty pleasures. It wasn't long before that promise was fulfilled. Rafael Velazquez, the executive chef, is having a lot of fun with that oven. It starts with the bread that comes to each table just after you sit down, a farmhouse-style slice that is served warm with sea-salted butter and a hearty house-made bacon jam. It continues with the individual flatbread pizzas, which are covered with ingredients, from the fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomato and basil of the margherita to the firm shrimp, roasted garlic and peppers - and again, that delicious bacon jam - of the shrimp pizza. A big, puffy peasant pita accompanies the creamy burrata appetizer. All are made in that oven with the same flatbread dough. In other words, this is not a bland, corporate experience. Mr. Velazquez, who was born in Puerto Rico and trained under a French chef for years in Miami, is bringing a farm-to-table sensibility to Härth. The tight menu is determined in large part by what is available from local sources, like Westchester's Hemlock Hill Farm, which provides the beef. The dry-aged rib-eye and the Delmonico steak I had on two different visits were each subtle, flavorful and astonishingly tender. I almost did not sample the house-made steak sauce, wanting to just enjoy the meats" seasoned tastes - and then I was glad I did. It had the same terrific balance of sweet and savory that much of Mr. Velazquez's fare provides. Other vendors include Wild Edibles, the source of seafood like the sweet scallops that were wrapped in smoky bacon and were served with creamed corn and snappy green beans. Perfectly seared salmon came over an open-faced lobster ravioli, both in a sweet onion cream - and lobster was again present in the mac and cheese that accompanied the rib-eye, creating a sophisticated surf and turf combo. Combinations are one of Härth's strong points. Cardamom-crusted lamb chops served over Israeli couscous created a rich contrast of textures, and the accompanying roasted artichokes, mint and olives blended Mediterranean and Middle Eastern tastes. The roasted chicken - first seared to seal in a wonderful crunchy skin - was served with house-made onion jam and basil whipped potatoes that helped bring out the flavor in the poultry. And the best of Härth's desserts, a s'mores pizza, blended melted marshmallow, a drizzle of dark chocolate and ripe strawberry slices with the wood-fired taste of baked flatbread - pleasing both the teenagers and the adults at my table. Härth has been open only about three months, and I am hoping time will work out the kinks. The mushroom pappardelle had a complex earthiness, but the pasta was so underdone that it crunched under my fork. Peekytoe crab toast had a superior flavor and a lovely side salad of heirloom tomatoes and fennel, but the bread was soft. And the waiters are gracious and eager, but could benefit from more training in describing the food and wine. Härth's biggest challenge is one of the restaurant world's trickiest: ambience. This is still an undiscovered place that needs more regulars to help create a sense of community. During my visits, most of the diners seemed to be people staying at the hotel on business and they did not forge the kind of vibrant feel a restaurant needs to be relevant. As its name implies, Härth is a cozy, warm spot serving some great food. Here's hoping it gets the local enthusiasm it deserves. Härth Hilton Westchester 699 Westchester Avenue Rye Brook (914) 939-6300 THE SPACE An open, flowing area with a gas fireplace at one end and floor-to-ceiling windows at the other. Comfortable chairs and roomy tables are gathered near a wood-burning oven. THE CROWD Hotel guests and a sprinkling of outsiders. The waiters are especially friendly. THE BAR A proper bar with stools but also tables and loungelike spots with cozy chairs in groups. The restaurant, which focuses on local sourcing, is working to bring in more New York wines - right now there is a Long Island chardonnay, but mostly the wines are from California ($9 to $16 a glass, $32 to $147 a bottle). New York beers include several from Westchester's Captain Lawrence and from Brooklyn Brewery (about $6 a glass). There should also soon be local whiskeys, cognacs, brandies and a vodka on the menu. THE BILL Entrees run from $18.50 to $57.75. Major credit cards accepted. WHAT WE LIKED Margherita and shrimp flatbread pizzas, peekytoe crab toast, burrata cheese, Caesar salad; seared salmon, bacon-wrapped scallops, dry aged rib-eye, Delmonico steak, cardamom-crusted lamb chops, roasted chicken, s'mores pizza, lemon pie, dulce de leche cheesecake. IF YOU GO Open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Reservations recommended on weekends. Parking in private outdoor lot on site.