Thorny problems: a thuggish geranium and weeds, seeds and compost heaps I feel sure you will be able to get the upper hand with this one, but don't be too determined to rid yourself of it completely. As I say, G. macrorrhizum will grow in places where virtually nothing else will. Every garden seems to have at least one of those, so perhaps you should spare some bits for that purpose. Weeds, seeds and compost heaps I was interested in your comments on dandelion seeds (May 5) in which you mentioned dropping them in a bucket of water. Wouldn't composting them be a sensible idea? Would the seeds not eventually be destroyed there? As my garden borders on to an agricultural grazing field, I am also concerned with thistle and dock seeds - can a compost heap destroy these as well? Dock seeds seem particularly hardy. George Higgins, via email Perhaps I didn't make my reason for committing dandelion seed heads to a watery grave clear enough on an earlier page. Dropped in a bucket of water, there is no danger of volatile seeds of dandelions and relations (i.e. groundsel) ripening, blowing around and infesting other parts of the garden, as they would if they were just left lying around. The seedy debris starts to rot within a week or so (the longer you leave them in the water the better), and then the bucket and contents can be tipped safely on to the compost heap. That goes for all annual weeds. In fact, simply dunk the lot, leaves and all, if there is any question of there being ripening seeds among them. The delightful bucketload will, of course, start to stink - but you just have to ignore that. In fact, on reflection, I would not risk weeds in flower on the compost heap (in this I include overenthusiastic cottage garden spreaders such as past-their-best forget-me-nots, fennel, verbascum etc) without first starting to get the rotting process under way, which is what a prolonged dunk does. This is because compost heaps need to generate some pretty high steamy heat right through to destroy seed reliably. In my experience this rarely happens in a normal domestic heap or bin, which has an annoying tendency to stay rather dry at the sides unless stirred almost daily. A further weed-disposal tip: perennial weed roots (ground elder and so on), should always be left to dry in the sun so that they are completely dead before they are added to a compost heap or bin. Planting queries, anyone? Being asked for planting advice - as opposed to dealing with dilemmas, disasters and undesirables - is what makes this page interesting for me to write, but also presents a bit of a challenge. Like everyone else, I have pretty clear ideas on what makes a satisfying garden. It is hard not to, in effect, impose these ideas on readers by only choosing to answer those questions for which the answer flows smoothly from my fingertips without taxing the brain. This week I had two very different calls for help. The first was from Maggie Radford, on behalf of her daughter and son-in-law who are not likely ever to become gardeners, she says. They are faced with a somewhat sunless patch of tufty grass that appears to be growing on very little flinty topsoil at the back of their newly built home. What can they plant that will be the lowest of low maintenance, but will improve an unavoidable view from a large window? Although Maggie (unlike too many emailers) mentions that this is all happening, or rather not happening, in West Sussex, there is a dearth of other information here - no hint of the size or general outlook of this garden. Are we talking "far-reaching views of the South Downs that just need dressing"? Or a "boring brick wall/neighbour's bathroom window"? Do you see how hard this is, readers? But answer I will, simply to point out some pragmatic home truths about caring for a seemingly unlovable patch of ground that demands to be noticed. Grass is without doubt the lowest of low maintenance, and even determined anti-gardeners can find a certain pleasure in sitting on a mower or walking behind one. I would therefore suggest that the area in question be initially weed-killed with glyphosate (to get rid of docks, thistles and other vigorous "unwanteds" and create a clean-ish slate), and that the infertile-looking soil then be sown with a suitable grass and summer wild flower mix (pH tests would be helpful to determine this). The flowers will actually benefit from the lack of richness of the soil, holding their own against the grass - and both will look tolerably pretty in high summer. Furthermore, the whole area can be mown short from August through to the following May. The other low-maintenance idea involves trees: a small group strategically placed and planted quite close together (yes, yes, inevitably elegant white-trunked silver birches spring to mind because I love them so much) forms a good focal point. Add to this a seat and a mown, slightly curving path leading to it from the house and voilà: a garden of sorts. The other related email is from Beth Marston, who has just moved to a cottage in Herefordshire. She has worked out from pieces I have written that my own garden style is "relaxed" and wants me to list my favourite cottage garden self-seeders. The following list comes with a big caveat: the self-seeding cottage garden is not necessarily an easy option, particularly for beginners. It needs hawk-eyed maintenance or it becomes a jungle where one or two plants dominate. But here goes: aquilegia, Meconopsis cambrica (Welsh poppy), Papaver rhoeas (various forms of field poppy in subtle colours), Papaver somniferum (opium poppy), Hesperis matronalis (sweet rocket), Lamium orvala (a raspberry-red-flowered tall dead nettle), Smyrnium perfoliatum (lime-green biennial cow parsley relation), Myrrhis odorata (sweet cicily), Geranium pyrenaicum 'Bill Wallis," perennial stock, Verbascum chaixii 'Album," Lunaria annua (honesty), Bronze fennel, knautia, Tellima grandiflora, Eryngium planum 'Miss Willmott's Ghost," Astrantia major and foxgloves. I could go on...