Mum's the word for designers ©Pascal Perich Parental guidance: Joseph Altuzarra says it felt natural to tap into the business acumen of his mother Karen When designer Joseph Al­tu­zarra was a young boy his mother allowed him and his younger brother Charles choices. "If they didn't want to wear their coats," says Karen Altu­zarra, "I would tell them, fine, but if they didn't want to wear their coats, they could go stand in the corner. And they would often do just that, until they were ready to do what I wanted them to do, which was put on their coats. But it was their choice to stand in the corner. This may seem an odd story to be telling about someone who has in the past year won two of the biggest accolades awarded any young American designer - the Council of Fashion Des­igners of America award for emerging womenswear designer, and the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award - and whose eponymous business has grown in four years to one with 53 stockists in North America, Europe, China, Brazil, Russia and Korea. Vanessa Friedman But, sitting at a big white table in the airy warehouse space in downtown Manhattan that is Mr Altu­zar­ra's office and atelier, she is speaking in her capacity as his chief executive, and illustrating one of the keys to their professional relationship: she always respected her son's decisions, even if she did not agree. As a new generation of young des­igners challenges the usual definition of "family business" by turning to their parents, especially the mother, as employees, understanding such familial tropes and how they may affect their corporate partnerships is increasingly important. "We call it a "reverse succession," and we are seeing it more and more," says Joachim Schwass, professor of family business at IMD business school and author of Wise World, a book about managing family business. Fashion has a long tradition of family companies, from Ermenegildo Zegna to Missoni, Salvatore Ferragamo and PPR. However, as in any sector, the family aspect generally concerns a founder grooming children to inherit. François Pinault, founder of PPR, had his son Fran­çois-Henri, now CEO, regularly grilled by advisers who reported on his fitness for an executive role. In companies such as Prada, Yves Saint Laurent and Armani, the family aspect involves a creative force and their spouse or partner running the business. But for a child to employ his mother is a relatively new phenomenon. It reflects the rise of a generation of women to senior positions, the declining appeal of Wall Street and the financial challenge of starting a brand in the globalised fashion business. Steven Kolb, president of the CFDA, says: "There is a tradition in fashion of working with family members . . . but as a result of businesses being launched by foun­ders in their 20s, this has become, in some cases, parents." Zac Posen started his company with his mother Susan, a former M&A lawyer at New York firm Stroock & Stroock & Lavan, as CEO, while Alexander Wang is advised by his mother Ying Wang, who sits on the board of his eponymous company. Mrs Altuzarra had spent eight years as head of recruiting in Europe at JPMorgan after a long stint in its cash management business. "This kind of cross-gender relationship is often a more successful model than same-gender, because it is less competitive," says Prof Schwass. Mr Altuzarra says that to turn to his mother was natural when first setting up in 2007. At just 25, he wanted someone to review the business plan and help him raise money. Not only did she have the financial background, but "if she said something was going to get done, it got done." William Susman, founder of Threadstone Partners, a consultancy and boutique investment bank specialising in the apparel industry, says: "You have two individuals who trust each other implicitly and are both very invested in the success of the concept: the parent, because you want to do everything you can to help your child succeed, and the child, because it is their project." However, he says, the consequent "lack of necessary objectivity" means he would "always suggest that the best approach is to go with a traditional professional to the extent you can afford it." Mrs Altuzarra became further invol­ved when she flew over for the first season from Paris, where she and her husband are based, slept on her son's couch and helped take orders. "We spent a lot of that year figuring out not just the business but how our relationship would work," says Mr Altuzarra. I think it was the first time I really saw my mother as a person and not just a parent. When Mrs Altuzarra returned to Paris she had formalised her role and she and her son developed a routine: they speak on the phone at length every day, and she travels to New York every two to three months. Mrs Altuzarra says she does not interfere in the creative process other than to have what Mr Altuzarra calls "the fabric fight" every season. "I want to use one kind of fabric that will be very expensive and Mom says, "there's an overall budget you have, Joseph, and if you want to spend it all on this kind of fabric, you can, but there isn't any more,"" he explains. Developing this sort of interaction early on is important, says Prof Schwass. "There is a tendency for parents to come to their children with solutions to problems, instead of helping them create their own solutions" - which is what good executives do. Mr Kolb says: "I'm not sure the dynamic between parent and child as colleagues and any other family members as colleagues is that dissimilar," "However, no matter what family member you are working with, you absolutely need to check your personal relationship at the door." Prof Schwass suggests using a parent's first name in the office, as you might with any co-worker. He also says family members should be aware that the way they normally interact - interrupting each other, for instance - is inappropriate in an office setting. When Mrs Altuzarra wants to add to a story her son is telling, she will lay her hand on his and say: "Excuse me, Joseph, if you don't mind I'd like to add something." On the other hand, she admits her son calls her Mom in meetings, though when people ask her about him, she calls him "my boss." And neither of them would deny there are other hurdles: when they hired an outside chief operating officer, says Mr Altuzarra, "I learnt a lot more about myself as a manager, both positive and negative." There is simply no avoiding the fact that "people feel more comfortable telling her what's wrong with me than telling my mother," he says.