Blanca Is a Sleek Surprise Around Back of Roberta's Robert Wright for The New York Times At Blanca, the kitchen fills roughly half the space of the restaurant. THE team behind Roberta's, the pizzeria and do-it-yourself lifestyle cooperative on Moore Street in the Bushwick neighborhood of Brooklyn, has quietly opened a new restaurant, Blanca. Carlo Mirarchi, who runs the kitchen at Roberta's and owns it and Blanca with Chris Parachini and Brandon Hoy, is the chef. The new restaurant seats 12. Located in an airy white loft built in the plaza behind Roberta's sprawling compound of shipping containers and tents, across from an extensive, multilevel garden, Blanca might be a California beach-town garage renovated by just-retired professional skateboarders. It has a high ceiling and is sparsely decorated. If Roberta's is rustic and cluttered, Blanca is sleek. An immense kitchen fills roughly half the space. The service, style and ambition of Blanca recall that of a larger Momofuku Ko, the chef and restaurateur David Chang's 200-square-foot dinner theater in the East Village, or a slightly more casual Brooklyn Fare, the chef César Ramirez's stainless-clad temple to gastronomy, which serves 18 around a snug bar built into his kitchen in Downtown Brooklyn. At Blanca, which is 1,000 square feet, diners sit on luxuriously padded captain's chairs set before a wide bar facing the open kitchen with its ranges and work stations, digital convection oven and immense pressurized braising pan. An enormous mount of a bluefin tuna head rears out of the restaurant's back wall, the remains of a 700-pound fish caught off Montauk and given to the restaurant by Taylor Erkkinen and Harry Rosenblum, owners of the Meat Hook butcher shop in Williamsburg. As at both Ko and Brooklyn Fare, only a tasting menu is served. On a recent night, it comprised 22 courses, starting with house-made prosciutto and a goat milk granita piled high with Russian caviar, then marching forward through armies of uni and horse mackerel, soft-shell crabs and perch, all the way to the promised land of Mr. Mirarchi's deeply aged meats and cheese. Records spin on a turntable set up near the front door, from a library put together by the owners. Customers are charged with choosing and playing the albums. Captain Beefheart is filed behind Metallica, near Diana Ross, Sammy Davis Jr., Kraftwerk, the Beach Boys, Stevie Wonder. The collection "reflects our tastes," Mr. Mirarchi said. Servers bring plates from the kitchen and offer wine and cocktails off a list that Mr. Mirarchi says is "under development." Pen clams in a concentrated broth with pea flowers were part of an early menu. Nduja ravioli came, too, with citrus zest and mint, and spot prawns with segments of oro blanco and lily shoots. Octopus and scallops joined sea beans and geoduck. Black bass swam in sweet potato broth. There was duck aged into wobbly senility, and purple potatoes with buttermilk sauce, and slices of dry-aged beef with a vin cotto sauce run through with fat. The pace was measured, relentless. "The whole point," Mr. Mirarchi said, "is to grab this opportunity and make the most of it." After serving thick slices of the steak, Mr. Mirarchi passed the last scraps of beef around the bar, along with the bone, before having the plates cleared and sending forth some stinky Époisses cheese and plates of fava beans to round out the night. Dinner at Blanca costs $180 a person, excluding wine. Mr. Mirarchi has been serving dinner at the restaurant, alongside a team of two cooks, three captains and a dishwasher, for a little more than a month. "For the moment, anyway, if I'm not in the kitchen at Blanca," he said, "we're not open." He added that he would continue to oversee the menu at Roberta's, but he has given daily responsibility for the kitchen to Max Sussman, the restaurant's chef de cuisine. The pizza boss is Lauren Calhoun, he said. Blanca is named for Mr. Mirarchi's mother, as Roberta's is named for Mr. Parachini's. (Mr. Mirarchi, discussing the future and speaking of Mr. Hoy, said, "Hopefully Brandon's mom has a cool name." It is Linda.)