Wine: "well-made, champagne will usually win the day" ONCE upon a time, life was simple. Champagne was the king of fizz, with prices starting at around £20 a bottle, while other sparkling wines were a step or two down in quality but gave change from a tenner. Today, however, champagne prices are falling and overlapping with those of the newer, premium sparkling wines. Consequently, I used the tasters at a local wine circle to find out whether quality levels are doing the same. The first task was to set a benchmark champagne, and top marks were awarded to Canard-Duchêne Authentic Brut (£18, Majestic, until 29 October) with its smooth and gentle - but distinctive - grapefruit and lemon flavours and attractive toasty nose. This house is now producing some great stuff under the stewardship of the Alain Thienot team. There was also praise for the value for money represented by Comte de Brismand Brut Reserve (£12.99, Lidl). This is an uncomplicated champagne that provides an excellent balance between citrus-centred freshness and the yeast-powered custard cream flavours that underpin it. And so to that other major French sparkling wine, crémant. There are some tasty versions, including the brilliantly priced, 100 per cent chardonnay Philippe Michel Crémant du Jura (£6.99, Aldi), which has as its centre-point the nice tangerine acidity that won it an accolade as the ideal fizz for fish and chips. Even crémant producers, though, seem to regard it as a supplement, rather than a rival, to their country's most celebrated sparkling wine export. Another obvious candidate did not fare too well either. With one or two exceptions, I have been disappointed with the current run of cava. Even when we pushed up the price bracket, there was little to set the pulse racing. Given its positive publicity, English wine could be expected to score well but, before we look at good examples, a word of caution. With the UK's unpredictable climate and the steep learning curve for producers, results between vineyards and years can vary considerably. Those we tasted were indeed patchy but there are stars about - for example, the creamy, biscuity but nicely balanced 2007 Nyetimber Classic Cuvée (£29.99, Waitrose) or the fresh lemon-charged 2010 Camel Valley Brut (£24.99, Waitrose Direct), which use less familiar grape varieties such as seyval and reichensteiner. Of necessity, however, English wines often tend to be relatively expensive. Despite my caveats, two sparkling wines stood out. One was 2010 Follador Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry (£15, Oddbins), with its primrose aromas and beautifully soft, clean flavours of red apple and pear that are enhanced by a nice dry finish - which, paradoxically, leaves a gentle perception of sweetness. While success for prosecco was predictable, the final wine was a revelation - Quartet Anderson Valley Brut (around £22, Exel). Its Pacific seaboard pedigree as part of the Roederer empire is demonstrated when, after a fairly mundane nose, it bursts into life on the palate with vibrant red apple fruit brilliantly counterbalanced by lively lime and lemon acidity. No wonder many consider this winery to be the best producer of sparkling wine in the Americas. When the scores were totalled, it was clear that well-made and competitively priced champagne will usually win the day over other sparkling wines. But the margin of victory is narrowing and tastes seem to be subtly shifting. 2011 Finest Tingleup Riesling Great Southern, Western Australia, 12.5 per cent This super wine from the Howard Park stable has delightful clean and fresh lemon-based acidity (turbocharged with the hints of lime that riesling does so well), yet with real substance and depth and a gentle whisper of sweetness. £8 (down from £9.99 until 2 October), Tesco 2011 Domaine Mayole Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Morocco, 13 per cent Here is an amazing red from North Africa, with intense bramble and raspberry flavours enhanced with touches of spice and a long, vanilla-dominated finish that takes the edge off a mildly tannic grip. £5.99 (down from £8.99 until today), Waitrose