A Review of Posto 22, in New Rochelle EAT, DRINK The bar at Posto 22 attracts its own clientele. MY companion was - as usual - apologetic for eating "too much." We were having appetizers and entrees, in addition to dessert, and she felt compelled to make a self-deprecating remark to the busboy. But he turned to her, and looked her right in the eyes. "You're here to have fun," he said. Why feel bad about that? My friend relaxed, as if she'd been given permission. And I fell in love on the spot. Posto 22, in New Rochelle, is full of staff members like that: the hostess who came by to make sure we were happy with the dessert she had recommended; the waiter who carefully wrapped our leftovers and kept them warm in the kitchen until it was time to leave. Our water glasses were never empty for long, and the food was brought out at a nice pace, our tablecloth cleaned off between courses. Unfortunately, it isn't often that one encounters such uniformly competent, warm and helpful service - and it goes a long way toward making a meal at Posto 22 pleasant. Add a sound level that allows for conversation, soft lighting and an array of menu choices - from thin-crust pizza and sandwiches to elaborate entrees - and there is much to recommend at this four-year-old restaurant. Now, if only the food were as consistently good. That thin-crust pizza wasn't very thin, and there was too much sauce and too much cheese on the margherita version we tried. The fried calamari was underdone. And one night, both pastas we ordered went way beyond al dente to nearly crunchy. It isn't that anything is an unmitigated disaster - save the Caesar salad, comprising sad, wilted greens with a gelatinous, tasteless dressing drizzled on top - but too many items fall short. Westchester County has so many Italian restaurants that diners do not have to settle; there is always another choice right around the corner. Still, if you order right, you can have a lovely experience at Posto 22. The eggplant rollatini appetizer was layered and light. Grilled artichoke hearts, another starter, were nicely charred and topped with a delicious shaved Parmesan and a touch of truffle oil. Chicken martini was nicely crusted with Parmesan, and the black-angus steak was juicy, tender and cooked to order. House-made gnocchi were light little pillows topped with a simple tomato sauce (though I could have done with less melted mozzarella on top), and the fresh basil added an evocative summertime flavor. Herbs were well employed in several cases, from the infused olive oil for dipping one's bread to the minimeatballs, made with veal, pork and beef, that served both as an appetizer and as an entree with spaghetti. When items missed the mark, it was mostly because the kitchen overdid things. The veal piccata was chewy and tough, but the dish's biggest downfall was the hot cherry peppers that covered the meat and made it almost too spicy to eat. Jumbo shrimp with tomatoes, artichoke hearts, mushrooms and mozzarella over spinach was a gloppy mess, with so much garlic that even this garlic lover had to stop after a few bites. The cannoli shells were burned, overpowering the taste of the filling. At the end of a second visit to the restaurant, we ordered the biscotti, which were crisp and flavorful with plenty of almonds, and our mood was pretty good as we left for the evening. Passing the bar, we heard laughter as the bartender chatted with satisfied patrons who sounded as if they were regulars. It made me sorry that such a comfortable hangout could not give its diners more culinary reasons to stick around. Posto 22 22 Division Street New Rochelle (914) 235-2464 posto22.com THE SPACE Soft lighting and white tablecloths help create a comfortable, welcoming atmosphere. The main dining room is rectangular, with a semiprivate alcove and a small outdoor patio in the back. THE CROWD Couples, friends and some families, though the restaurant does not feel especially child-oriented. The small bar area attracts singles for drinks and meals. THE BAR Right at the front of the restaurant, it is a friendly spot that attracts its own clientele. The restaurant's awning says, "Wine Bar," but the wine list of about 50 bottles, mostly from Italy, did not have a lot of variety. Glasses start at $8, and bottles run $24 to $79. There is a nice menu of fresh iced teas and lemonades in big juglike glasses for $4.75 each. THE BILL Dinner entrees, $15 to $29. WHAT WE LIKED Eggplant rollatini, grilled artichoke, gnocchi, linguine alla vongole, lobster ravioli, fettuccine Bolognese, chicken martini, black-angus steak, biscotti, toasted almond mousse. IF YOU GO Open Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, noon to 11 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 10 p.m. Reservations recommended for weekends. Metered parking on the street or in a municipal lot directly across the street.