Steel-Cut Oats, Sweet and Savory A couple of years ago in the course of touring Bob's Red Mill, the whole-foods purveyor based in Portland, Ore., I learned a new word: spurtle. A spurtle is a wooden dowel-like implement used to stir oatmeal. They are common in Scotland, where an international porridge-making competition called the Golden Spurtle is held every year in October. There are two sections to the competition: one for plain porridge made with steel-cut oats (also known as pinhead oats) and nothing more than water and salt; and one for specialty porridges, in which the steel-cut oats are used in a dish with other ingredients, sweet or savory. Bob's Red Mill entered and won the traditional porridge competition in 2010, which was quite an honor. This inspired the company to create its own oatmeal contest, offering the winner an all-expenses-paid trip to Scotland to compete in the Golden Spurtle. I was a judge this year in the Bob's Red Mill contest - it's called the Spar for the Spurtle - and I was very impressed with and inspired by the range of dishes. When it came to choosing a winner, my fellow judges and I were all on the same page: Laurie Figone, from Petaluma, Calif., produced a delicious savory dish she called an Italian Pinhead Torta, a sort of oat-and-vegetable frittata inspired by her mother-in-law's rice torta. It showed off the oats front and center, and I think Laurie has a good shot at the Golden Spurtle. When I got back from Portland I couldn't wait to get into the kitchen with a few packets of steel-cut oats. It had never occurred to me to use this grain for savory dishes, but now I had lots of ideas. Oats, which are a good source of dietary fiber, thiamin, magnesium and phosphorus and a very good source of manganese, have great flavor and texture, and they absorb other flavors well. Because they release creamy starch into the liquid they're cooked in, they're perfect for polentas and puddings. Who knows - maybe I'll enter the Golden Spurtle myself next year with one of this week's Recipes for Health. Steel-Cut Oats and Vegetable Torta Laurie Figone's award-winning Italian Pinhead Torta is a spin on a rice and egg torta, a sort of frittata made with eggs, rice, oregano and Parmesan. She substituted steel-cut oats for the rice, soaking and cooking the oats in mushroom broth, which contributed great flavor. She also added shredded zucchini, soaked portobello mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes. This recipe is based on Laurie's dish, but it's slightly different. I've substituted 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil for Laurie's 6 tablespoons of butter, and fresh garlic for garlic salt. I've also given you a choice between dried portobello mushrooms and dried porcinis. Serve the torta with a simple tomato sauce. 1 ounce (about 1 cup) dried portobello mushrooms or 1/2 ounce dried porcinis 1 1/2 cups boiling water 1 1/2 cups quick-cooking steel-cut oats Salt to taste 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 cup diced onion 1 cup coarsely shredded zucchini 1/2 cup diced sun-dried tomatoes (packed in olive oil, drained) 1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped fresh oregano, to taste, or 1/4 cup fresh marjoram 6 eggs, at room temperature 4 ounces Parmesan, grated (1 cup) Fresh Tomato Sauce or Simple Marinara Sauce for serving Place the dried mushrooms in a bowl and pour on the boiling water. Let sit for 15 to 20 minutes, until the mushrooms are soft. Place the steel-cut oats in a bowl. Add salt to taste. Line a strainer with cheesecloth and place over the bowl. Drain the mushrooms, pouring their soaking liquid through the strainer, and then squeeze liquid out of the mushrooms while holding them over the strainer. The oatmeal should be submerged in the soaking liquid (add a little water if it is not). Leave the oatmeal to soak for 20 minutes while you prepare your other ingredients. Rinse the mushrooms of any sand. Drain them, then squeeze dry and chop medium-fine. Set aside. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a wide saucepan over medium-high heat and add the soaked steel-cut oats, along with any liquid remaining in the bowl. Stir constantly until all of the liquid has evaporated and the oats are cooked al dente, about 3 minutes. Heat another tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy 10- or 11-inch nonstick skillet. Add the onion and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until onion is tender and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, zucchini, mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes and cook, stirring, for another minute, until the zucchini begins to soften. Add the steel-cut oats, stir together until everything is well combined, and remove from the heat. In a large bowl, beat the eggs and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the oregano or marjoram and 3/4 cup of the Parmesan. Stir in the oat mixture and mix well. Clean the pan and wipe dry. Return the skillet to medium-high heat and add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. When the oil is hot, pour in the egg mixture, scraping every last bit out of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Cover the pan tightly and turn the heat to medium. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the eggs are set (insert a knife in the middle; it should come out clean). Remove the lid and remove from the heat. Let sit for a few minutes in the pan, then invert onto a serving plate. Top with the remaining Parmesan. Allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes and cut in wedges. Serve with a simple marinara sauce. Yield: 12 servings as an appetizer or side dish, or 8 as a main dish. Advance preparation: This can be made a day ahead and reheated, or served at room temperature. Nutritional information per serving (8 servings): 316 calories; 15 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 7 grams monounsaturated fat; 152 milligrams cholesterol; 28 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams dietary fiber; 274 milligrams sodium (does not include salt to taste); 17 grams protein