Idaho, USA: a fly fishing adventure But before our fly fishing baptism we are let loose in the surrounding Wild West with a menu of activities that includes white-water rafting, riding, zip-lining, hiking, biking, boating and target shooting on Mark Rockefeller's ranch (the Rockefellers have been pioneers of conservation, contributing to the national park systems and helping preserve much of the West's great wildernesses). One day we drive over the 8,432ft Teton Pass to Wilson for a short stack of blueberry pancakes at Nora's Fish Creek, near Harrison Ford's ranch. We also stop in the town of Jackson, admire the ski resort of Jackson Hole and hike up Death Valley canyon in Grand Teton National Park, which leads to superb views of the Teton mountains and Phelps lake. Elk, marmots and birds of prey abound, and once we have to tiptoe past a moose and her calf. We have picnics and barbecues, feasting on elk kebabs and chilled wine in secluded spots along the river under sunny, deep-blue skies; stop for square-scoop huckleberry ice cream at Rainey Creek; and hike in wild landscapes with names such as Argument Ridge and Moody Swamp. On our travels there's never much on the road and when we do pass a car it's likely to be a huge pickup towing a boat or a trailer. This is serious hunting country; one where trophy antlers of elk or moose adorn the bars and lodges. We listen to our guides talking about bow hunting on horseback and the Wild Turkey Draw, when a limited number of the creatures can be killed. With no such thing as supermarket delivery most households rely on a freezer full of meat to get them through the winter. When we saddle up to explore the backcountry, crossing creeks and climbing narrow trails, we cover country that was once part of the 2,000-mile Oregon Trail for pioneers travelling between Missouri and Oregon. There are still families living in the original homesteads granted by the government that have been passed down the generations. I'm up early, still jet-lagged, for the fly fishing day. As I wander along Snake River en route to the main lodge for another mountain-man breakfast, I'm told I've just missed an osprey catch a trout and a bald eagle wrestle it away in mid-air. Such sparring is not uncommon. South Fork is home to more than 126 bird species including 26 raptors. Osprey, bald eagles and red hawks are constantly on the hunt, and their nests, which look like huge inverted straw hats, are easily spotted. The corridor also is rich in moose, elk, deer, black bears, bobcats and coyotes. I watch an otter skim across the lake (not good news for the trout) and see several beaver dams. Armed with peaked cap and sunblock we buy our fishing licence and watch in awe as our guide Brett Novik attaches a drift boat to his pickup in a nanosecond. Then we are off to "put in" at Spring Creek. Quickly, we all enter a world of nymphs, stonefly and rubber legs. The fly we will use replicates the insects fish eat. With most species the life cycle is a year, so the relevant time of year of the insects" life-cycle - egg, pupa, larvae or adult - will determine our fly. Brett's expertise decides on a fly called rubber legs and off we go. We have a few trial casts and Brett tries to put us at ease by telling us how many clients have hooked his shorts or various body parts. We must keep our wrists firm with more of a pendulum movement than a jerky throw. Gliding down the river, I'm in the front, Brett is rowing in the middle and Victoria, from our group, is at the back. It's warm, the sky is blue, and the views are breathtaking. We are surrounded by steep granite cliffs, rising from the riverbank in great jagged shapes. "That's Sleeping Indian," says Brett and sure enough, the peaks he points at lie in the shape of a man wearing a headdress. Early on we fish the Canyon, a corridor of rock inaccessible except by river. Brett steers the boat to prime feeding ground and we cast into the current. Every time the line gets in front of the fly Brett tells us to "mend" and get the line behind the fly. Early on I get a bite and he yells "set" but I am too slow to hook the fish and it gets away. Seconds later I get one. I can see a silver flash in the water and let out my line as instructed and then haul it in a bit. It's exhilarating and the adrenalin is pumping. Gradually I haul it up to the surface. We're bound by catch-and-release laws, and though between us we catch 19 fish (the biggest a 17-inch rainbow trout), this catch of mine is the only one we keep. Back at South Fork Lodge, tired yet exhilarated, we give our fish to the chef. With great enthusiasm he disappears to the kitchen while we sip huckleberry martinis made from a local Idaho vodka. When our trout reappears, it looks like a work of art and tastes even better. We tuck into a feast fit for kings. My induction into the Wild West is complete. Idaho is known as the "Gem State," as nearly every type of gemstone can be found here. British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) flies from Heathrow to Denver from £736 return. United Airlines (0844 448 1610; united.com) flies from Denver to Jackson Hole from £278 return. You can also fly direct to Jackson Hole from Heathrow with United Airlines from £725 return. To visit the United States you will need an ESTA visa, which costs $14/£9 and is valid for two years. It is available online at esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta and must be purchased at least 72 hours before travel. Seven nights" b & b at Natural Retreats South Fork Lodge (0845 485 1147; abercrombiekent.co.uk) costs £1,847 per person, based on two sharing. Six nights" b & b in the main lodge and one night at Snake River Camp (full board and all drinks) costs £2,695 per person, based on two sharing, including a full day's fishing on Snake River with a private guide in a drift boat, a full day's guided hike and either private airport transfers or seven days" car hire from Jackson Hole or Idaho Falls airport. White-water raft down the Snake River and experience the rapids at "Lunchbox" or try a float trip with Dave Hansen Whitewater & Scenic River Trips (001 307 733 6295; davehansenwhitewater.com; $65/£41 for the white-water adventure, $60/£38 scenic float). Take a zip-line tour across the Wild West at Heise Hot Springs (208 538 6048; heisehotsprings.net; from $40/£25 per person). Seven zip lines take you over nearly a mile of terrain. The Outfitters at South Fork Lodge (208 483 7052; theoutfitters-us.com) can arrange a day fishing trip on a drift boat with a guide and all equipment for $500/£318; a daily fishing licence is $12.75/£8. Courses are available for beginners, intermediates, experts and women only. Alternatively, you can saddle up for a scenic ride or camp overnight; organise through Swan Valley Outfitters (contact Natural Retreats as below). Try a local beer or Twisted Tea in the Saddlesore Saloon, Swan Valley (208 483 2510). Spring Creek Ranch, Jackson Hole, Wyoming ££ Set in a wildlife sanctuary in the shadow of the Teton mountains, 1,000ft above Jackson, Spring Creek Ranch combines stylish rustic design with modern interiors. A varied choice of accommodation includes double rooms, condominiums and mountain villas. Facilities include spa, heated outdoor pool, tennis courts, hiking trails, riding and restaurant. Activities include white-water rafting, fishing, golf, hot-air ballooning, wildlife safaris to Yellowstone and Teton national parks and skiing in winter (307 733 8833; springcreekranch.com; doubles from $195/£125 per night). Natural Retreats South Fork Lodge ££££ This selection of suites in log cabins, self-catering family-sized cabins or the main lodge is a collaboration between Mark Rockefeller and Matt Spence, who began holidays in natural environments on his 55-acre family farm in the Yorkshire Dales. The Lodge is situated on one of the most sought after stretches of the Snake River. Activities range from fishing, hiking, zip-lining, white-water rafting and float trips to riding, golf and trips to Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. Terrace and indoor dining, bar and no end of fishing stories (0844 384 3166; naturalretreats.com; double deluxe suites in a log cabin from $525/£336 per night). The Four Seasons Resort ££££ Tastefully styled after the Wild West with lots of natural wood, comfortable sofas and American Indian art and furnishings. A large hotel (124 rooms), but has an intimate feel, with all the mod cons and luxuries. Situated right on the ski slopes of Jackson Hole resort, it's also ideal for hiking and biking in summer, being just minutes from the cable car and close to the Grand Teton National Park and 90 minutes" drive from Yellowstone (307 732 5000; fourseasons.com; doubles from $535/£352 per night). The Knotty Pine, Victor ££ A cosy, all-American restaurant with a colourful garden and meaty menu with few vegetarian options and enormous portions. Specialities are fantastic house-cured hickory-smoked baby-back pork ribs (£16 for a full rack); or try The Three Wise Men (beef, bison and elk burgers) with apple. Order a jug of margaritas while you are at it or Idaho Laughing Dog beer (58 South Main Street, Victor; 208 787 2866; £20-£30 for as much as you could possibly eat). Couloir, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort £££ Take a free gondola ride to dine 3,000ft above the valley and watch the twinkling lights below. This restaurant uses only locally sourced foods from nearby farms, free-range and natural meats and sustainable fish. Top American cuisine in a spectacular setting. Open June-September (307 739 2675; jacksonhole.com; £40-£60). Riverside Bar & Grill £££ Locally sourced fish, meat and vegetables in a spectacular setting overlooking Snake River. Imaginative and unusual menus, with touches such as balsamic sea salt, roasted lime salsa, sturgeon caviar and whipped Idaho potatoes. Home-reared beef, bison rib-eye, venison and roasted hen of the woods mushrooms. Extensive menu also available in the bar in front of an open fire (Natural Retreats South Fork Lodge; 877 805 7794; naturalretreats.com; around £70 for three courses). The snowmelt from the mountains can mean that some higher hiking routes are not accessible until June/July. In spring and even summer you can experience four seasons in a day, so be properly equipped with a warm jacket and boots, as well as a sunhat, sunblock and mosquito repellent. Plan your trip carefully to avoid finding Yellowstone National Park closed; only part of it is open year round. Don't drink from mountain streams where the parasite giardia can be present. Always make sure you have plenty of bottled water.