A Review of Taj Palace, in White Plains IT has been two years since a fire in downtown White Plains demolished the popular Bengal Tiger restaurant, and it's a hard act to follow. But two months ago, Taj Palace opened in the space last occupied by Graziellas, and the promising menu may take up the slack. Although the restaurant's name suggests a certain opulence, the décor at present leans toward the conservative. Tasseled red window swags, a charming statue of potbellied Ganesha at the door and a few pictures dot the sprawling dining areas. Low ceilings make the rooms seem cramped, but tables are comfortably spaced, if a tad small for the number of dishes a shared dinner would require. A midday buffet offers quite a few appealing selections that are not on the regular menu. They vary somewhat from day to day, but usually on hand are chutneys, tandoori chicken tikka, a variety of meat and vegetable curries, excellent breads, rice and a dessert. Serving dishes are covered and labeled with traditional Indian names, but without helpful translations. The dinner menu lists more than 200 items, and almost all regions of India are represented. Informative descriptions note the Taj specials (not one we ordered disappointed). Approximate spiciness is noted and runs from very mild for kormas to very, very hot and spicy for vindaloos (vin d'alho on the menu) and Kolhapuris. A waiter will discuss your preference. Many of our choices were tagged medium, and we found them a bit mild. From the few we sampled, appetizers were well worth ordering. Tawa shrimp brought three gorgeous jumbos seared, sprinkled with mustard seeds and set in a tomato sauce wafting curry. A mound of crisped, garlicky cauliflower florettes (lasuni gobhi) was equally delectable. We left flaky samosas for another time and ordered one of the dosas. Our masala dosa was less an appetizer than an event. Draping dramatically over the edge of the plate, the long golden tunnel of a crepe came filled with tasty potatoes, onions and peas. A personal preference is for vegetable curries, which seem richer and more complex than meats. They're also more mellow, but chili heat can always be adjusted to the diner's taste. Dumpling fans should not miss malai kofta, a harmony of soft pumpkin and sweet-potato dumplings in a soothing sauce bright with turmeric and cumin. Jaipuri masaledar bhindi was a superb blend of sautéed okra and seasoned onions. Aloo gobi mutter was unsauced, an excellent side dish; and a lovely version of baingan bhurtha brought the eggplant roasted and mashed with green onions. Dal makhani, usually a complex creamy stew of lentils and beans, was underdone and spiritless. Meats cooked in the tandoor are often overcooked, like our dry chicken tikka. But everything was right about paneer seekh kabab masala, the luscious Indian cheese skewered, cooked in the tandoor and simmered in a rich sauce. This kitchen blends its spices beautifully, resulting in curries that are tantalizingly distinctive. The juicy chicken curry dhansak had a pleasant tingle and a hint of nutmeg. A bolder gravy went nicely with lamb keema masala, but the minced meat was tough. Fish curry, however, was disappointingly bland. Breads - nan, poori, spinach paratha - were excellent. Richly spiced foods require a cooling dessert. Indian desserts are often cloying, but those here, even the syrupy gulab jamun, had more substance than sugar. Creamy rasmalai and soan papadi (a mysteriously dry sweet that rehydrates in the mouth) were specials worth trying. Mango and coconut ice creams refreshed nicely. This new restaurant is still feeling its way, but even now the kitchen turns out some terrific food. Taj Palace 95 South Broadway White Plains (914) 437-5900 TajPalaceWP.com THE SPACE Sprawling, low-ceiling dining areas simply decorated with Indian pictures, statues and textiles. Well-spaced tables. Wheelchair accessible. THE CROWD Multigenerational. Accommodating, efficient service. THE BAR Only wine and beer at the moment. Beer, $6 to $9. Wine by the glass, $8; by the bottle, $28 to $32. THE BILL Buffet lunch, weekdays, $12; Saturday and Sunday buffets, $16. Dinner entrees, $15 to $25. WHAT WE LIKED Tawa shrimp appetizer, lasuni gobhi (cauliflower), masala dosa, baingan bhurtha (eggplant), malai kofta (pumpkin and sweet potato dumplings), aloo gobi mutter (potatoes, peas, cauliflower), paneer seekh kabab masala (Indian cheese in sauce), Jaipuri masaledar bhindi (okra), chicken dhansak, naan, spinach paratha, poori, rasamalai, soan papadi. IF YOU GO Lunch buffet, daily, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner: Monday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 9:30 p.m. Street parking is limited, and strictly patrolled meters are in force until 9 p.m. A parking garage is across the street, and lots are nearby. RATINGS Don't Miss, Worth It, O.K., Don't Bother.