Ghent, Belgium: a cultural city guide Ghent's wealth in the early medieval period was thanks to the import and export of wheat, and the manufacture of luxury woollen cloth. The city's great and good weren't shy about parading their riches and the Catholic Church was often the happy recipient. St Nicholas Church in Limburgstraat I head into the city's first cathedral, St Bavo's, founded in the seventh century, to see just how extravagant those early wealthy Ghentians were. I marvel at the Rococo pulpit, built in Danish oak and marble by the Belgian sculptor Laurent Delvaux in 1745, then at the prolific artwork on the cathedral walls. But the thing most people want to see in St Bavo's is the 1432 altarpiece, The Adoration Of The Mystic Lamb, and it's worth the short queue and minimal entrance fee to witness one of religious art's greatest creations. Then, feeling I need to see what modern Ghent has to offer, I stroll along the Graslei and over the Leie river to the Design Museum. Housed behind an 18th-century façade, a modern extension plays host to a fascinating collection of 17th- and 18th-century furnishings, as well as examples of Belgian Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Following the Leie river north, I find myself in the narrow cobbled streets of the Patershol district. I stop at It Velootje, a bar on Kalversteeg, which is an impressive clutter of bicycles and junk crammed into a small room. The combination of beer and - once again - bicycles is the perfect end to my visit to Ghent. Ghent essentials Eurostar (0843 218 6186; eurostar.com) has services from London St Pancras to Ghent (changing in Brussels) from £80 return. There are three tram lines running from Ghent train station to various central locations. Tickets can be purchased from the automatic machines at the tram stops for about €2/£1.50. Taxis from Ghent train station into the city centre cost about €30/£24. As well as an art gallery, the medieval St Peter's Abbey also has a delightful oasis of a garden, perfect for a lunchtime pit stop, plus, rather incongruously, a vineyard. For a bell-ringing experience that's hard to beat, climb the 300ft (91m) Belfort just before midday to see the clock chiming in its full glory. Belgium is famous for its chocolates, and you can't get much better than new kid on the block Joost Arijs. His minimalist shop is at Vlaanderenstraat 24 (joostarijs.be). For some seriously stylish shopping, pick up a Maart Design Maand map. It conveniently collates all the best independent Belgian fashion stores in the city. Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof £ Exceptionally good value four-star with high ceilings, eggshell-blue walls and gold doors in the lobby. Rooms are modern and comfortable and there's also a wellness centre (0032 9 235 4070; sandton.eu; doubles from £100 per night). Hotel Harmony £ Modern and comfortable in a trendy location with 25 simple yet stylish rooms, plus a terrace and pool (324 2680; hotel-harmony.be; doubles from £110 per night). De Waterzooi ££ Pretty three-roomed b & b in a former 16th-century church. Centrally located with an airy breakfast room and very comfortable beds (330 7721; dewaterzooi.be; doubles from £160 per night). Hotel Verhaegen £££ An 18th-century chambre d'hôtes, beautifully decorated by its interior designer owners. The five rooms are a treasure trove of modern art and 18th-century antiques. Breakfast in bed is perfect (265 0760; hotelverhaegen.be; doubles from £160 per night). Street cafe in Vrijdagmarkt, the Friday Market Het Groot Vleeshius £ Housed in an old meat market, this relaxed canteen-style café is the best place to try the Ghent speciality of waterzooi, a substantial fish or chicken soup-like stew (Groentenmarkt 7; 223 2324; grootvleeshuis.be). Pakhuis ££ Bright, high-ceilinged brasserie serving an extensive menu of local dishes with modern twists. Tasty roast chicken comes from their own farm, plus amazing roast potatoes (Schuurkenstraat 4; 223 5555; pakhuis.be). Belga Queen £££ Behind the façade of a medieval grain warehouse is a thoroughly modern interior of spotlights, steel pipes and dark leather chairs. Serving equally stylish modern fare and delicious cocktails, this is a special occasion destination (Graslei 10; 280 0100; belgaqueen.be). De Blauwe Zalm £££ In the Patershol district, the serene interior of this smart yet friendly restaurant belies the excitement of what appears on its plates. Delicious concoctions include a potato salad with salmon eggs, crab and sesame seeds, and skate with mustard mash and an apricot and caper sauce. Simply superb (Vrouwebroersstraat 2; 224 0852; deblauwezalm.be). Getting in the way of those cyclists - the delineation between cycle lane and pavement is not always clear. Paardenlookworst on a restaurant menu, if you're not too adventurous in your culinary tastes - it's a traditional horsemeat and garlic sausage. Citadelpark at night. On the southern edge of the city, it's perfectly delightful during daytime hours, but best avoided after dark. Despite building an abbey in Ghent, St Bavo was a religious recluse and lived in a hollow tree.