A Review of Geronimo Tequila Bar and Southwest Grill, in New Haven THE bar scene at Geronimo Tequila Bar and Southwest Grill in New Haven is exuberant. The restaurant sells more than 300 varieties of tequila and 27 of mezcal, and excellent margaritas are downed by the glass or the pitcher in a dizzying array of flavors and shades. A lively buzz spills from the spacious patio bar, and an arriving stranger - already cheery - greeted me with a hug as I departed one weekday evening. Can such a place also offer good food? Not every dish is a winner, but many are sensational. According to the executive chef, Timothy Scott, Geronimo's is the cuisine of Santa Fe, N.M., with Apache, Navajo, Mexican and Anglo-American influences. It's characterized by Southwest ingredients like bison, elk and buffalo, and the heavy use of chilies. Traditional enchiladas, rellenos, tamales and moles are served alongside bison burgers, macaroni and cheese, and tuna tartare tacos. Geronimo's design carries through the nuevo New Mexican theme: buffalo skulls and strings of dried chilies hang on walls edged by cornices and columns, and a chandelier is fashioned from wrought iron and elk horn. An adobe fireplace is tucked into the corner of one dining area, the adjacent wall decorated with long-handled knives for cutting agave. The friendly staff is well versed in the inventive menu and happy to help. But as the evening heats up, they're on the run, and service is not always smooth. During one awkward transition, we demurred when dirty utensils from our finished plates were put back on the table. Nonetheless, our server was skilled in his tableside preparation of guacamole, mashing avocado with red onion, tomato, jalapeño, cilantro and lime in the traditional mortar and pestle called a molcajete, for an unbeatable starter. Smoked buffalo brisket tamales were another exceptional appetizer, also offered in an entree portion. Made with beef stock, the corn masa was dense, tasty and dotted with fresh corn kernels; the shredded buffalo filling was spicy and deliciously smoky. An appetizer of three chilies - buffalo, elk and vegetable - was less well received. The vegetable chili was smoky and sweet but thin; both the elk and the buffalo lacked salt, and while the elk meat was tender, the flavor of beer was overwhelming. We were also disappointed by a corazón salad of romaine hearts dressed with a bland poblano dressing. The menu offers soft tacos with a choice of fillings. We particularly liked finely chopped tuna tartare tacos, bound with a modicum of aioli. House-smoked veal tacos were terrific, too, the ultratender meat served in a small cast-iron skillet with fresh pico de gallo. Geronimo's Navajo frybread, a cross between pizza and traditional Native American fried dough, was a successful combination of old and new. We chose chorizo, fresh fig, ricotta and caramelized onion to top the appealingly rich, soft, deep-fried round of dough. And we fell in love with thick-cut yuca fries whose interiors managed to be both fluffy and creamy. Entrees were almost universally successful, starting with a melt-in-the-mouth pork pibil, marinated in orange juice and tequila. An extraordinarily moist chicken mole breast was coated with vibrant tomatillo-pepita mole. Don't miss the shrimp tamales, made with lobster stock. They feature whole shrimp and a spicy, creamed, applewood-smoked tomato sauce seasoned with chipotle chilies and cumin. A barbecued pork-stuffed chili relleno was marred only by the smoked tomato sauce - this time, the sauce was harsh tasting, verging on acidic. A lobster special was dry from overcooking. Plates are garnished with savory cilantro rice, and black beans cooked with Sierra Nevada beer; though first bites were tasty, once again the bitterness of the beer was too much for the flavor of the bean. Among desserts, a wedge of chocolate-polenta crusted ganache tart was delightful, as was a moist tres leches cake. A plate of fresh berries with agave syrup made a great summer finish to the meal, and a fruit tart was tasty despite a thick, soft crust. Skip the gummy-textured tequila key lime pie. Geronimo is unquestionably a festive place, but it manages to be serious about both its tequila and its cooking. If you opt for cocktails, don't be daunted by the strange-sounding combinations: the cucumber margarita and the blood-orange margarita, the latter fueled by jalapeño-infused tequila, are perfect partners to the spicy cuisine. Geronimo Tequila Bar and Southwest Grill 271 Crown Street New Haven (203) 777-7700 geronimobarandgrill.com THE SPACE An 85-seat restaurant with a lively front room shared by bar and dining areas with high-top and standard tables. Booths in back room allow for somewhat quieter meals. Décor is dramatic with Southwestern artifacts and colorful paintings. Wheelchair access. THE CROWD Young crowd sipping margaritas and tequila. Lots of students: on dates, with friends and in large parties. Very noisy. THE BAR Choose the interior bar or the large, 50-seat, heated, street-side patio bar (open until the temperature falls below 45 degrees). Both serve full bar, a huge selection of tequilas and mezcals. Selection of cocktails and margaritas, and small list of wine and beer. THE BILL Guacamole, $15; salads, soups and nachos, $7 to $12; quesadillas, $10 to $17; burritos, $11 to $14; rellenos, $9 to $20; tamales, $6 to $20; mac and cheese, $8 to $26; main plates, $16 to $26. All credit cards accepted except Discover. WHAT WE LIKED Guacamole, tuna tartare tacos, chorizo and fig frybread; pork relleno, shrimp tamales, smoked buffalo brisket tamales, pork pibil, chicken breast mole; chocolate tart, tres leches cake, fruit tart, fresh berries with agave. IF YOU GO Lunch: Monday through Saturday, noon to 4 p.m. Dinner: Monday through Thursday, 4 to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. Bar: Sunday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Monday to Thursday, 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Friday and Saturday, noon to 2 a.m. Reservations strongly recommended. Parking on street and in nearby lots.