Victoria Moore: They resemble a mix of candyfloss and wine gums Don't make the mistake of thinking these Frankenstein-like creations will satisfy any craving you might have for wine. What they are are grape-based drinks: often quite sweet (think 40 grammes per litre - that's about 7.5 teaspoons of sugar in a bottle) that often have an industrial edge and resemble a mixture of candyfloss and wine gums dissolved in water with a splash of alcohol. If you really must buy one, go for JP Chenet Merlot which has the benefit of being reminiscent of wine. For me, the point of a drink is to give pleasure. I'd far rather have a glass of a style that was naturally low in alcohol - a lovely, sweetish slightly sparkling moscato from Italy, a zippy vinho verde from Portugal or a riesling from Germany's Mosel, say. If all else fails, simply do as the French do (and what wine producers would do if it were legal) and mix an ordinary glass of wine with some water for a DIY low-alcohol wine. And remember, low-alcohol wine-style drinks aren't on the shelves because anyone thinks they taste good. They're there to help mollify the government and its public health initiatives. Under the Responsibility Deal, retailers and producers have made various commitments to help foster a culture of responsible drinking - the fear of increased taxation or a more regulated industry is a huge incentive for them to comply.