Victoria Beckham spring/summer 2013 from New York Fashion Week Victoria Beckham may have had a sleepless night "obsessing about a collar," but she needn't have worried about her latest catwalk offering. When I asked if I could spend the night with Victoria Beckham - to follow what happens before a show - her PRs said most of the hard work is done several days previously. Victoria is so organised, I was told, that there are no all nighters. Except this time. Backstage before her show, an unusually nervous looking Beckham confessed she hadn't slept. I've been awake obsessing about a collar, can you believe? IN PICTURES: Victoria Beckham spring/summer 2013 While Beckham unburdened her neckline dilemmas, 26 models on their mobiles, intermittently visited the breakfast buffet (stop press: carbs were consumed) and 24 hair and make up artists focused on bringing the designer's theoretical woman to life. "When Victoria first started, the models more or less reflected her style," said Guido Paolo, the British hairdresser, "but to progress, a designer has to make their vision more universal." Shatteringly, for acolytes of VB's old look, this new vision involves flat gladiator-boots, designed by Manolo Blahnik and the kind of refined natural look, and gelled, girl-in-the-street hair that, in total, takes about 50 minutes to achieve for each model. All the latest action from New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2013 Sales of Beckham's two ready-to wear lines (this catwalk one, handmade in London), the new, slightly lower priced Victoria Victoria Beckham range, sunglasses and denim totalled £60 million in 2011. Profits are undisclosed, but this isn't a hobby. An August holiday was out of the question. Apart from a few days in London to do the Olympic Closing Ceremony which she loved, she was slaving over new challenges. I've always wanted to do tailoring, but I couldn't get the shoulders right - i like them very neat, - so we parked it. But this time she's cracked it. Working with a new super-stylist, the Scottish Joe McKenna (this team's full of people at the top of their game), thigh length jackets with zipped slashes were layered over buttoned-up, white cotton mini shirt dresses and white flared mini skirts, some with pleated chiffon hems. The results looked more youthful boy-girl than previous collections, but still with painstaking details. Short sleeves were embellished with lattice work broderie anglaise that echoed the finishes of her slim, gold chain-handled bags. Lingerie dresses featured delicate lace trim and sheer backs. That suggests classic va va voom VB style and there were longer, curve hugging dresses - they're commercial. But the new message was more gamine and modern - with another first, immaculate cigarette trousers. I've been listening to lots of customers, and for versatility, they want separates. Some separates turned out to be elaborate trompe l'oeil dresses ," but still marked a departure from her signature look. Hence the nerves. Before the show, a slightly tense David Beckham slipped past the models carrying Harper. Had he been fretting about collars too? No, but he had to listen to me. She needn't have worried. It was time to evolve and this worked.