City Kitchen In France, onion soup is considered a balm for hangovers, or simple comfort for the winter weary. Part restaurant, part folk performance, Korchma Taras Bulba keeps the dumplings and vodka shots coming. Prized Performers The past year produced terrifically enjoyable restaurants from seasoned veterans, but those were exceptions. The newcomers were the true standouts in 2013. Letter From Paris Making Christmas Sweet Every December, just about every restaurant chef, pastry chef and bonbon-maker in France feels compelled to do something - simple, spectacular or silly - with chocolate. Today, good ones are easier to find than ever before, with vibrant and flavorful yolks.