Wines with an earthy quality IF I were to make a list of winemakers who excite me most right now - the ones pushing the boundaries of what's accepted, striving to produce wines of beauty and character - it would look a lot like the list of winemakers travelling to Sydney next Sunday for Rootstock, the Sustainable & Artisan Wine & Food Festival. What unites these winemakers is a shared ethos of caring for their land and doing as little as necessary in the cellar to ensure the flavour of the vineyard is best expressed in the glass.