Jo Nesbo's Oslo, Norway: my kind of town Until the Eighties Oslo was a rather boring town, but it's changed a lot, and is now much more cosmopolitan. If I go downtown, I visit the harbour to see the tall ships and the ferries, and to admire the modern architecture such as the Opera House or the new Astrup Fearnley Museum on the water's edge. Where is the best place to stay? The 19th-century Grand Hotel (0047 2321 2000; grand.no; doubles from £142), where all of the rooms are different. Where would you meet friends for a drink? There are some cool places in Grünerløkka - the Greenwich Village-type area of the city. Check out Bar Boca (Thorvald Meyers Gate 30 Grünerløkka; 2204 1377), which is Oslo's smallest bar and one of the best, with a great selection of cocktails. Where is the best place for lunch? I'm a big fan of Delicatessen (2271 4546; delicatessen.no), in the same part of town as Bar Boca. It has a Spanish-style tapas menu and the food is really good. And for dinner? Lorry (2269 6904; lorry.no) - Harry Hole (my fictional detective hero) goes there sometimes. It's a bit off the beaten track but perfect for traditional Norwegian food. It also has real personality. Where would you send a first-time visitor? The landmark Opera House, undoubtedly the city's most stunning modern building. Most of the city's contemporary architecture provokes heated discussion, but everybody loves the Opera House. You also have to go to Vigeland Park, home to more than 200 of Gustav Vigeland's sculptures. And don't leave town without visiting Oslo's East End. It has a very different feel to the city centre. What should I avoid? The Starbucks at Oslo Airport. It's the only Starbucks in Norway which means that Oslo has some great home-grown coffee shops. However, I fear for the future. What should I bring home? A thick sweater. As I say, we Norwegians love our woollens, and you can buy some beautiful knitwear in Oslo. They might cost you a bit - but they will last. Anywhere that isn't your kind of town? I'm afraid I didn't really like Caracas in Venezuela. From what I saw it seemed so crime-ridden that you really have to be on your guard all the time. 'The Bat', by Jo Nesbø, is out now (£18.99; Harvill Secker) Getting around The frequent, high-speed FlyToget (flytoget.no) trains between Oslo and its international airport take 20 minutes. Most sites lie within a mile of each other, making the centre ideal for exploring on foot. The city's T-Bane underground system has six lines which are useful for hopping around the centre and for trips out to the forested hills of the Nordmarka. The city's trams are also an enjoyable way of getting around, with six routes in the city. What to see The Munch-museet (0047 2349 3521; munch.museum.no) houses the largest collection of the work of Edvard Munch and is sited next to Tøyenparken on Oslo's east side, where the artist grew up. Other examples of his work can be found at the Nasjonalgalleriet (2198 2000; nasjonalmuseet.no), home to Norway's most extensive collection of paintings, drawings and sculptures, with an emphasis on Norwegian art in the 19th and 20th centuries. What to do The Vikingskipshuset (Viking Ship Museum) (2213 5280; khm.uio.no) is where three of the world's best-preserved ships can be seen in a specially constructed cross-shaped hall. The museum is a 10-minute ride across the harbour. Oslo's best downhill ski area is Tryvann Vinterpark (tryvann.no); it has 14 slopes and seven lifts plus a ski school and rental shop. The site is open, weather permitting, until April; to get there take the T-bane to Voksenkollen station and then board a shuttle bus. Music festivals Norwegian Wood (norwegianwood.no) is a four-day, open-air rock festival held at Frogner Park, a 10-minute tram ride from the city centre. It runs this year from June 13 with acts including Rod Stewart, Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds and Band of Horses. In mid-August there is also a week-long jazz festival. Where to eat and drink Stratos (2104 6400; stratos.as; open late June to mid-August) is an excellent rooftop bar on a distinctive Art Deco tower. For dinner try Bjorn Svensson's Oscarsgate (2246 5906; restaurantoscarsgate.no), which serves particularly inventive local dishes.