Past glories colour futuristic Korea The changing of the guard at Gyeongbukgung Palace. Hwaseong Fortress has been rebuilt with great accuracy. Cheong-gye-cheon public recreation sapce in downtown. Picture:Lonely Planet Source: Lonely Planet THE Korean Peninsula is a gem: the South, a hi-tech nation with a reverence for tradition and the ways of old Asia; the North, a challenging, geopolitical enigma. Yin and yang The blue and red circle at the heart of the South Korean flag neatly symbolises not only the divided Korean Peninsula but also the fluid mix of ancient and modern aspects of the country officially called the Republic of Korea (ROK), where the vast majority of visitors to this part of the world will spend their time. South Korea is a dream destination for the traveller, an engaging, welcoming place where the benefits of a fully industrialised, hi-tech nation are balanced alongside a reverence for tradition and the ways of old Asia. Ancient and modern Academics still quibble over whether the Land of the Morning Calm (a term coined by travel writer Percival Lowell in 1885) is an accurate translation of the old Chinese characters by which all of Korea was once known. Dive into Seoul, the powerhouse of Asia's third-largest economy, and calm is the last thing you'll feel. This round-the-clock city is constantly on the move, its "work hard, play hard" population the epitome of the nation's indefatigable, can-do spirit. Founded on centuries of tradition that manifest in the daily pageantry of the changing of the guard at meticulously reconstructed palaces, or in the chants of a shaman on a hillside, Seoul is nonetheless a contemporary urban marvel. You can hardly turn a corner without stumbling across a tourist information booth, a subway station or a taxi that will smooth the way to your next discovery in this multifaceted metropolis. Contemplation and celebration South Korea's compact size and superb transport infrastructure mean that tranquillity is achievable within an hour of the urban sprawl. Hike to the peaks of craggy mountains enclosed by densely forested national parks. Get further off the beaten path than you thought possible by sailing to remote islands, where farming and fishing folk welcome you into their homes and simple seafood cafes. Sample the serenity of a Buddhist temple retreat where the honk of traffic is replaced by the rhythmic pre-dawn chants of shaven-headed monks. If all this sounds a little too peaceful, rest assured the ROK also knows how to rock. A countrywide itinerary of lively festivals and events means there's almost always a celebration of some sort to attend, and friendly Koreans are happy to share their culture with visitors, regardless of language barriers. If nothing else, your tastebuds will be tingling at the discovery of one of Asia's least known, but most delicious, cuisines. Top experiences Changdeokgung If you only have time to visit one of Seoul's five major palace complexes, make it this UNESCO World Heritage property. Changdeokgung (meaning Palace of Illustrious Virtue) was originally built in the early 15th century as a secondary palace to Gyeongbukgung. Following the destruction of both palaces during the Japanese invasion in the 1590s, Changdeokgung was rebuilt and became the primary royal residence until 1872. It remained in use by members of the royal family well into the 20th century. The most charming section is the Huwon, a "secret garden" that is a royal horticultural idyll. Book well ahead to snag one of the limited tickets to view this special palace on the moonlight tours held during full-moon nights in the warm months. Hiking around Jeju-do The frequently dramatic volcanic landscape of Jeju-do, the largest of South Korea's many islands, is best seen on foot. Climbing to the summit of Hallasan, the country's highest peak, is very achievable and, in good weather, provides spectacular views. The Jeju Olle Trail is a network of 26 half to one-day hiking routes that meander around the island's coast, part of the hinterland and three other islands. Spending a day following all or part of a trail is a wonderful way to soak up Jeju's unique charms and beautiful surroundings. Boryeong Mud Festival Every July, thousands of people converge upon the unsuspecting (but fully welcoming) town of Boryeong and proceed to jump into gigantic vats of mud. Welcome to the Boryeong Mud Festival. The official line is that the local mud has restorative properties but one look around and it's clear that no one really cares for much except having a slippery sloshin' messy good time. Mud aside, this foreigner-friendly and very high-profile festival also features concerts, raves and fireworks. A tip: Don't wear anything you want to keep! Suwon's Hwaseong Fortress Built as an act of filial devotion and heavily damaged during the early 20th-century colonisation period and then the Korean War, the restoration of this UNESCO World Heritage Site began in the 1970s and is now almost finished. A detailed 1801 record of its construction has allowed the 5.52km-long wall and the Hwaseong Haenggung (a palace for the king to stay in during his visits to Suwon) to be rebuilt with great historical accuracy. A walk around the wall takes you through four grand gates. Cheong-gye-cheon A raised highway was demolished and the dug-up ground revealed this long-buried stream. The effort has transformed Seoul's centre, creating a riverside park and walking course that provides a calm respite from the surrounding commercial hubbub. Public art is dotted along the banks of the stream and many events are held here, including a spectacular lantern festival in November, when thousands of giant glowing paper and paint sculptures are floated in the water. There's also a good museum where you can learn about the history of the Cheon-gye-cheon. This is an edited extract from Lonely Planet Korea (9th Edition) by Simon Richmond, et al. Lonely Planet 2013. Published this month, RRP: $39.99, lonelyplanet.com Air transport Most international flights leave from Incheon International Airport, connected to Seoul by road (80 minutes) and train (60 minutes). Daily budget (Currency: Korean won) Hanok guesthouse: W70,000 Entry to Gyeongbokgung (Palace of Shining Happiness): W3000 Barbecued beef meal: W40,000 Theatre ticket: W40,000 More Korea.net: A treasure trove of background detail on the ROK.