Aarhus, Denmark: a cultural city guide This is not the only fine museum in the Latin Quarter, the oldest part of Aarhus. After a coffee in the quiet narrow lanes, I swap the history of emancipation for the terrors of subjugation at the Occupation Museum set in the former Gestapo headquarters. Inside the evocative and shabby rooms, the story of the Nazi occupation of Aarhus from 1940 to 1945 is well told. Among the hundreds of dusty cupboards, drawers and shelves of exhibits are bunches of propaganda leaflets dropped by the RAF, British paratroopers" uniforms and a BBC recording announcing the liberation of Denmark. After a traditional smørrebrød sandwich at Smagløs, one of Aarhus's oldest cafés, I visit the Church of Our Lady. This is part of a former Dominican abbey that replaced St Nicholas, the city's first cathedral. The 11th-century crypt is the major attraction here. From the oldest of Aarhus's attractions it seems fitting to end my day at one of the newest, the brilliant ARoS museum, designed as a journey from hell to heaven. I start with The 9 Spaces in the black-walled basement, follow the spiral staircase, past Ron Mueck's crouching 16ft sculpture Boy! and wonderful works by Warhol and Cézanne before reaching the circular skywalk. Here the city and bay look spectacular through rainbow-tinted windows - it seems the Vikings really did find a pot of gold 1,200 years ago. Travelling up to 62mph, the ferry from Aarhus to Ports in Zealand is the fastest in the world. Ryanair (0871 246 0000; ryanair.com) flies to Aarhus four days a week from Stansted. British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) flies to Aarhus six days a week from Manchester. Airport buses leave from outside the arrivals terminal to the centrally located Aarhus train station, taking an hour (£11 one-way). There is currently no tourist office in Aarhus. The town hall and many hotels offer computer stations for visitor information and maps, but it is advisable to do research before you arrive (visitaarhus.com is very informative). The Den Gamle By museum (dengamleby.dk), in central Aarhus, and the Moesgård Museum (moesmus.dk), 10 miles away, are not to be missed. In the former, revisit the days of Hans Christian Andersen at the world's first open-air town museum; in the latter admire the celebrated Grauballe Man, a perfectly preserved Iron Age bog body. Den Gamle By museum The Danes generally eat supper early, around 6.30pm, so adjust your eating patterns accordingly if you want to mix with the locals. Aarhus, like most of Scandinavia, is expensive, making the AarhusCard (£20 for two days) a good buy. It offers entry to 20 attractions, as well as discounts to the ARoS modern art museum (aros.dk) and the Den Gamle By Museum. Despite the city's coastal location, it has surprisingly few fish restaurants. One of the best is the simply named Seafood, a short taxi trip away at Marselisborg Marina (Marselisborg Havrevej 44; 185655). The Danish royal family's summer residence is the Marselisborg Palace on the outskirts of the city. The beautiful grounds are opened to the public to explore when the royals are not in residence. Hotel Guldsmeden ££ Friendly staff, a cosy café and lovely courtyard lend a homely feel to this centrally located hotel. The cheaper rooms share bathrooms (0045 86 134550; hotelguldsmeden.com; doubles from £85). City Hotel Oasia ££ This award-winning designer hotel offers cool Scandinavian style and luxury in a historic building down a quiet lane (87 323715; hoteloasia.dk; doubles from £100). Villa Provence Hotel £££ This hotel succeeds in offering a taste of the Mediterranean in Aarhus. All of its stunning 38 rooms are individually designed and its luxurious lounge and cobbled courtyard are perfect places to unwind (86 182400; villaprovence.dk; doubles from £145). Brasserie Drudenfuss ££ An unbeatable location in the heart of the Latin Quarter. On warm days enjoy upmarket bar meals on the street-side tables. Brunch is a particular speciality (Graven 30; 86 128272). Romer Café ££ This modern restaurant offers a high-quality bistro-style menu, including an excellent burger selection. The main draw is the prime position on the lovely riverside (Åboulevarden 50; 86 120330). Svineriet £££ One of Aarhus's finest restaurants is to be found in the unlikely surroundings of a graffiti-lined back alley, but don't let this deter you, because it serves some of the best food in eastern Jutland. The small courtyard is a real treat in summer (Mejlgade 35; 86 123000). Aarhus's 12th-century Domkirke church If you are travelling on a budget, avoid dining out in the evening. Instead take advantage of the numerous inexpensive brunch and lunch menus offered by many restaurants. For good food at low prices, try Café Margueritten (Guldsmedgade 20; margueritten.dk). Resist booking one of the cluster of hotels by the town hall and railway station. While the accommodation here is convenient, this is not the most attractive corner of the city. Aarhus is home to the largest university in Denmark. Be aware that certain areas, especially the streets nearest the port, are popular partying venues for students in the evenings. The port itself is sprawling and industrial. The only reason to go near it is to eat at one of the exclusive restaurants in the adjoining small modern marina.