2011 Lake's Folly Hunter Valley Cabernet, 2012 Hill Block chardonnay and 2012 Hunter Valley chardonnay. IT'S difficult to avoid hyperbolic cliches when cramming 50 years of vision, dedication and pride into 350 or so words. "Passion" and "icon" are words I try to avoid at all costs but Lake's Folly virtually demands their use. Some staccato facts: in 1960, larger-than-life Sydney hand surgeon Dr Max Lake does what no one else has dared and buys 25.5ha of terra rossa over limestone hillside land from Tyrrell's; 1963, planting of cabernet sauvignon (and shiraz) begins; 1967, first commercial vintage; 1969, chardonnay planted; 1982, son Stephen takes over and plants petit verdot and merlot; 2000, Lake's Folly sold to Perth businessman, vigneron and wine lover Peter Fogarty, who appoints Rodney Kempe as winemaker. By the end of the 1960s Lake's Folly had become a byword: Lake had demonstrated it was possible for a totally unqualified person to successfully establish a very high-quality winery in the face of disbelief by the five extant family-owned (plus Lindemans) wineries. I was part of a small group of wine writers who gathered at Lake's Folly on May 3 to celebrate its 50th birthday. First up we tasted 29 releases of chardonnay between the first vintage of 1974 and 2012. Then followed 37 releases of the red wine, again starting with the first vintage and culminating in the 2011. For the record, since 1994 it has been 60 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 20 per cent petit verdot, 10 per cent shiraz and 10 per cent merlot. Around 60 per cent of the annual production is pre-allocated to private customers; up to 30 per cent is sold through the cellar door and website, the remainder to restaurants, fine wine shops and exports. It's a pattern that most other wineries can only dream of, and is one good reason why Fogarty has been a hands-off owner, other than buying 16ha of adjoining land for further plantings of cabernet sauvignon. Oh, and the quality of the wines has never been better. If this isn't a recipe for success, I don't know what is. 2011 Lake's Folly Hunter Valley Cabernets An estate-grown 61/18/13/8% blend of cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, petit verdot and merlot. Great terra rossa soil, 50-year-old vines and a top vintage have been putty in the hands of Rodney Kempe. Bright, clear crimson hue; there is a profusion of blackcurrant/cassis, black olive, spice and red cherry fruit, French oak seen but not heard, tannins so ultra-fine they are heard but not seen. 13% alc; cork 96 points; drink to 2036; $65 2012 Lake's Folly Hill Block Chardonnay The first vintage of Hill Block was 2011, the vines propagated from cuttings ex the '69 plantings, and grown on the highest point of the vineyard. The Folly Chardonnays are never fined or stabilised, and less than a gram of malic acid is added; this wine is fully barrel-fermented, with quite cloudy juice, and spends eight months on lees. Vibrant green-gold hue; it has a complex bouquet, and a layered palate of white peach around a talc and mineral core; its drive is exceptional, offering power with grace. 13.5% alc; screwcap 96 points; drink to 2022; $80 2012 Lake's Folly Hunter Valley Chardonnay Fermentation is started in tank, the wine transferred to barrel (French oak, 30% new) halfway through. Pale green-gold hue; finer and more grainy than Hill Block, its nectarine-accented fruit with a distinct minerally thread, the oak imparting a garnish of subtle grilled nuts. An elegant wine from 38-year-old vines. 13% alc; screwcap 95 points; drink to 2020; $65