A Review of Nico Kitchen + Bar, in Newark Alex di Suvero for The New York Times The bar area at Nico Kitchen + Bar, which serves an à la carte option on show nights. There are several kinds of dining experiences to be had at the flashy Nico Kitchen + Bar, tucked into the eastern end of the New Jersey Performing Arts Center in downtown Newark. You might choose an evening when there's a performance next door and the place is humming with fans who can pass directly into the theater at showtime. Or you might opt for a quieter night, when the enormous main dining room feels as cavernous and calm as a cathedral. In that case a better choice might be one of the handsome brown banquettes in the bar area, which can be bustling at happy hour but intimate a bit later on. Or maybe lunch, when there are "lots of suits" from the nearby office buildings and government offices, as Nico's guiding force, Ryan DePersio, put it in a telephone interview after several recent visits. Mr. DePersio, who grew up in an Italian-American family in Nutley, has drawn a zealous following with his brand of sturdy, unfussy Italian cooking at Fascino in Montclair, which he and his family opened in 2003, and Bar Cara in nearby Bloomfield, which followed seven years later. He's performing on a far grander stage at Nico, which opened a year and a half ago. The restaurant is operated by Culinaire, a Dallas-based company that specializes in restaurants in cultural centers. Mr. DePersio, 35, is the consulting chef (he named the place after his 7-year-old son, Nicholas); the chef de cuisine, Adam Rose, formerly at Bin 14 in Hoboken, is at the stove on a regular basis. The décor is elegant and vaguely industrial, with soaring ceilings and a dark red, gold and coffee color scheme that echoes that of its neighbor. The dining room accommodates up to 185, with room for 50 more in the bar area, presenting a sizable challenge for the kitchen. Judging from our visits, the kitchen is meeting it remarkably well. Part of the reason is the polished Italian-focused cooking, which features both Mr. DePersio's signature favorites, like his mascarpone polenta fries, pizzas and sublime ricotta gnocchi, and an array of ambitious but well-priced fish and meat dishes. But the efficient kitchen also ensures consistency on busy show nights by offering just two smaller menus then: a $42 three-course prix fixe in the dining room and an à la carte option in the bar area. From the main menu, the pan-roasted black cod with a crust of scallions and mascarpone was light and flavorful in its broth of riesling and tomatoes. The same was true of the roasted scallops, cooked through perfectly and offset by the crunch of the accompanying garlic-imbued red quinoa. And you really shouldn't miss those feathery gnocchi, tossed in a spicy sausage Bolognese sauce with fresh parmigiana. On the à la carte menu, the braised short ribs (also available on the main menu) were tender, tasty and deftly paired with a mild salsa verde. Eating alone at the bar, I was drawn into conversation with a vivacious couple who insisted I try their macaroni with English peas, bresaola and goat cheese; I, in turn, doled out some of my crab-stuffed zucchini flowers. I got the better of the exchange: the fresh peas added a sweet and snappy contrast to the creamy pasta, while the zucchini flowers in a Romesco sauce were a bit oily and underseasoned. Desserts, the work of Binicio Salas Chimbo, are rich, varied and often include specials. The best we tried were the chocolate-filled beignets with a salted caramel and pretzel gelato, and a French-tasting strawberry shortcake with mint crystals. A packed midweek evening recently offered an unusual Venn diagram of Nico's diners when there are simultaneous shows at NJPAC and the Prudential Center, a few blocks down Mulberry Street. Each started at 7 p.m. The well-heeled, older patrons going to see the Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli at the Pru arrived earlier and overlapped for the last hour or so with the more diverse crowd flocking to see Willie Nelson next door. As quiet couples at the bar were gradually supplanted by more gregarious multigenerational groups, the place was abuzz with good vibes, and I had to wonder: Does Willie Nelson have the friendliest fans in the world? Nico Kitchen + Bar One Center Street Newark (973) 642-1226 nicokitchenbar.com THE SPACE A dining room with 185 seats and large windows facing the street; a bar area seating 50 looks into the lobby of the New Jersey Performing Arts Center. An outside patio seats 40. The main room is designed for events, and a screen partitions the room during quiet periods. THE CROWD On concert nights, it depends on the entertainment; on other evenings, generally older and upscale. The staff is friendly and well trained. Wide-ranging wine list with 68 bottles, $24 to $300 ($8 to $15 by the glass). THE BILL Appetizers, $8 to $12; pizzas, $10 to $12; pastas, $12 to $15; entrees, $16 to $22; desserts, $7 to $8. On concert nights the dining room serves a $42 prix fixe menu and the bar, an à la carte menu. American Express, Visa, MasterCard and Discover accepted. WHAT WE LIKED Ricotta gnocchi; macaroni with English peas, bresaola and goat cheese; margherita pizza; pan-roasted black cod; grilled scallops; braised short ribs; chocolate-filled beignets; strawberry shortcake. IF YOU GO Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner: Monday through Thursday, 5 to 9 p.m.; Friday 5 to 11 p.m. Open on Saturday and Sunday only when there is a show: Saturday 4 to 11 p.m., and Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. (for matinees) and 4 to 8 p.m. (for evening shows). Bar menu until 11 p.m. on show nights. Reservations recommended on concert evenings. Free parking next door except during performances; plenty of lots nearby.