A Review of Farm to Table Bistro, in Fishkill The name says it all. But even if you didn't know what Farm to Table Bistro was called, you could see immediately that this Fishkill restaurant fits right into the movement for locally sourced eating. Huge apple bins filled with flowers line the entrance while a vintage tractor sits sentinel, welcoming guests. Inside, the quirky and charming décor includes an authentic wooden windmill mounted high on a wall. And the menu proudly lists the nearby origins of Farm to Table's mostly organic fare: fruits and vegetables from Taliaferro Farms and Meadowbrook Farms, cheese from Sprout Creek Farm, bread from the All You Knead bakery. Diners are increasingly used to the pleasures of fresh produce, but few restaurants offer additive- and nitrate-free poultry, meat and fish. Farm to Table does, and the results are impressive. A special of whole rainbow trout stuffed with clams, mussels, oysters and herbs, and pan-roasted in a butter sauce, tasted as if it had just been plucked from a stream out back. On another night, the rib-eye special was a lesson in the appeal of grass-fed beef raised without antibiotics. The steak, from a farm in nearby LaGrange, was darker and cut a bit thinner than you usually see, and the flavor was so rich it startled my companion. "This almost tastes weird," he said, when he took his first bite. By the end of the meal, he was a convert. The restaurant's kitchen, led by Claude Guermont, a French chef, doesn't just rely on good ingredients, it comes up with wonderful taste combinations. An already phenomenal crispy pork belly appetizer, a special, was raised several levels by a fresh cherry jam. Pork and duck pâté, another special, came with house-pickled hot peppers and carrots, a grainy mustard and lovely little cornichons. Steamed clams in white wine and garlic got a bracing kick from delicious homemade chorizo. The escargots are prepared with Pernod for a slight spin on the classic, and the outstanding baby back ribs are dry-rubbed with spices, slow-smoked for hours, steamed with pineapple juice and finished on the grill. A good homemade barbecue sauce came on the side, but the meat was so delicious on its own that I barely sampled the sauce. The chicken breast, sautéed in white wine and garlic, also has kalamata olives, thin soppressata and provolone, giving it a briny bite. Even the drinks and desserts include the unexpected. Whole litchis gave the sangria a perfumed sweetness. Puréed mango tempered the salty rim of a margarita. And the chocolate peanut butter tart was creamy but somehow also light and airy. There are occasional missteps, like a pan-seared salmon that arrived underdone without any caramelization, and a cup of tasty but lukewarm coffee. Still, most of the food is so thoughtfully put together, and the space itself is so intriguing, that it is clear that Chris O'Brien and Bridget Gekakis, the owners, and their staff are excited by what they do. One section of the dining room looks a bit like a library, its walls lined with interesting books - classic literature and a first edition of John F. Kennedy's "Profiles in Courage," for example. Beyond that are the bathrooms (two for women, one for men; a nice touch). You can glimpse the kitchen through an opening as you go by. Both nights I visited there was a beautiful bouquet sitting on a prep table. The flowers might be there for diners to enjoy in case they happen to spy them. But I like the idea that the restaurant wants to inspire its cooks with a little natural beauty. Just as the blooms were carefully picked and lovingly arranged, Farm to Table's kitchen is taking nature's bounty and creating something memorable. Farm to Table Bistro 1083 Route 9 (Lawrence Farms Market Square) Fishkill (845) 297-1111 ftbistro.com THE SPACE A quirky, comfortable dining room decorated with farm equipment, wine corks and plenty of books. A private room is available for wine tastings and other events. Some sidewalk seating with more on the way. THE CROWD Casual, mostly adult. Servers are attentive and fairly knowledgeable. THE BAR Set in a generous room of its own with several tables and the semiopen kitchen in the back. A varied wine list of well over 100 choices mainly from Italy, France and California ($24 to $160 a bottle, $7 to $16 a glass). Good mixed and specialty drinks, including martinis (around $10) and a nice sangria, served with whole litchis ($8). THE BILL Entrees from $21 to $30. WHAT WE LIKED Steamed clams, roasted stuffed red pepper, lobster roll, baby arugula salad, crispy pork belly (special), pork and duck pâté (special); baby back ribs, stuffed whole rainbow trout (special), rib-eye (special), Asian beef medallions, chicken breast sautéed in wine and olives; coconut panna cotta with raspberry purée, crème brûlée, cinnamon raisin bread pudding, chocolate peanut butter tart. IF YOU GO Open Monday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Tuesday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Reservations recommended on weekends. Free parking available on site.