Llafranc, Spain: Secret Seaside - Telegraph I heard he gave you a painting. Where is it? I ask. "Oh," he shrugs. We took it down. We didn't much like it. Llafranc is that kind of a place. Its near neighbour to the south, Calella de Palafrugell (pictured below), is reached via a picturesque walk around a wooded headland, a little over a mile. Walk it in the late evening and the fragrance from the Aleppo pines gives way to the heady scent of dama de noche, somewhere between orange blossom and jasmine. Did you know? This stretch of coastline was first dubbed "brava" 100 years ago by poet and journalist Ferran Agulló. Calella is the chichi resort on this stretch, and its tangle of streets is animated even out of season. Fishermen's cottages, with boat houses at beach level, stretch around its coves, though are these days mostly holiday apartments. The town is famous for two things; its festival of havaneres (sea shanties) in July and the magnificent botanic gardens, Cap Roig, perched high on its southern tip. These, and the red-brick neo-Gothic castle, were created by Russian émigré Colonel Nikolai Woevodsky and his aristocratic English wife in 1927, and later ceded to the state in return for a guarantee that the design would be respected and the botanic variety preserved. A well-respected music festival held in the gardens in July and August brings huge names to this quiet part of the world; in 2013 these will include Elton John, Keane and Mark Knopfler. No one would describe Llafranc or Calella as rowdy, but for real tranquillity, head north to Tamariu. It's an easy drive, or a breathtaking lovely walk over the cliffs from Llafranc. This stretch of the Camí de Ronda footpath takes around an hour and a half, and passes the 19th-century lighthouse at Sant Sebastià, an adjacent hermitage and some ancient Iberian remains, and, beyond that, the pebbly but pretty Cala Pedrosa. The little village of Tamariu, named for the line of tamarisk trees that line its promenade, has a wide beach of coarse sand, and marks the beginning of the more exclusive part of the Costa Brava. The holiday homes are a little grander, the restaurants a little more sophisticated. For all that, there are buckets and spades aplenty and the people are unfailingly friendly. Proffering my €2 coin to a car park attendant, I am waved away. "Hardly anyone here today," he says. No point in paying. Tamariu, it seems, is also that kind of a place. The nearest airport is Girona, on which Ryanair (ryanair.com) has the monopoly. It flies from various UK airports (flight time about two to two and a half hours). Alternatively, the following airlines fly into Barcelona (about two hours south by car): BA (ba.com), Iberia (iberia.com), easyJet (easyjet.com), Monarch (monarch.co.uk) and Vueling (vueling.com). Buses from Barcelona's Estació del Nord will or bus will take you to Palafrugell, from where you can take a taxi or, in high season, a local bus. Hotel Casamar £ Perched on a peaceful slope with an unbeatable view along the bay, the Casamar is family run, fabulously friendly and unpretentious to boot. Its rooms are plain but comfortable, and most have balconies with sea views. Its Michelin-starred restaurant with adjoining terrace shares the same view, and is magical at night (Carrer del Nero 3, Llafranc; 0034 972 300 104; hotelcasamar.net; doubles from £95). Hotel Tamaríu £ Another simply decorated but jolly establishment, with bright, decent-sized rooms enlivened by blue and white striped bedspreads and sea views. Downstairs there are cosy lounges for reading and watching TV, and in summer there are jazz nights (Passeig del Mar 2, Tamariu; 972 620 031; tamariu.com; doubles from £95). Hotel Mediterrani ££ The grande dame of Calella's hotels, the Mediterrani has a slightly institutional feel to its common areas, which are a bit hard-edged and shiny, with piped music, but the rooms are sunny and a good size, and most look out over Calella's picture-book bay (Carrer de Francesc Estrabau 40, Calella de Palafrugell; 972 614 500; hotelmediterrani.com; doubles from XX). Hotel Llafranch £ This simple hotel surprises with its sophisticated approach in the kitchen, and even the €12-€18 lunch deal delivers a sophisticated mix that might include an excellent salad of mollejas (duck gizzards) with orange, followed by pigs" trotters with prawns. Arrive early to bag a table on the seafront terrace (Passeig Cipsela 18, Llafranc; 0034 972, 300 208; hllafranch.com). Tragamar ££ The Costa Brava outpost of the excellent Tragaluz restaurant group in Barcelona, Tragamar embraces the best of its other restaurants, with a menu that mixes the classics (paella, simply cooked seafood, ham croquetas) with whatever takes their fancy from around the world (edamame, tuna tataki with guacamole) and relaxed, rustic décor (Platja de Canadell s/n, Calella de Palafrugell; 972 61 43 36; tragamar.com). Simpson £££ This long-standing favourite is one of Llafranc's best, with a terrace overlooking the sea. The speciality is pigs" trotters, and daisy-fresh fish pulled from local waters. The vegetables, too, are sourced locally - when in season, try the artichokes with apple and foie gras or the peas with sausage. The owner can be a little sniffy if you don't look the part, so try not to rock up in beach gear (Passeig Cipsela 10, Llafranc; 972 301 157). The inside track An easy morning's excursion from Llafranc is the walk up to the Far (lighthouse) de Sant Sebastià. The views inland are as spectacular as those out to sea, and there is a secret, luxurious watering hole just next door in the shape of the Hotel El Far (elfar.net). The tipple of choice at Calella's Festival de Havaneres is ron cremat (rum, sugar and coffee beans, set alight). If you can't be there for the festival, there are plenty of local bars that will serve you one. The Hotel Tamariu organises one-hour boat trips down the coast to Palamós, where they arrange bikes to be waiting for you. From here you can cycle back to Tamariu (around two hours) along the Via Verde (a leafy disused railway track). Costa Brava travel guide Read Eddi Fiegel's complete guide to the Costa Brava Overview The best hotels Attractions Restaurants Nightlife Drives Eddi Fiegel is a travel and arts journalist and author specialising in Spain. She has written on Spain and Spanish food and culture for numerous newspapers and magazines. Whilst living in Barcelona for several years, she got to know the Costa Brava extensively and still visits the region regularly.