Abad Dom Bueno Godello 2010, Spain It sounds like the name of a long-forgotten Marx brother. Godello, once nearly extinct, is grown almost exclusively in Spain and Portugal. Today the white variety is finding growing acceptance among consumers seeking a crisp, lean profile that's as far from full-bodied, heavily oaked chardonnay as a Smart car is from an Escalade. This one's lipsmacking, with a nuance of oxidative tang supporting fresh flavours of sweet peach and honeydew melon. Perhaps not a crowd-pleaser, but godello always was more of a loner than Groucho. $17 in Quebec.