Wine tasting notes: must-have muscadets 2011 Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie, Domaine de Tourmaline £6.99 Majestic Produced around the city of Nantes in the Loire, Muscadet is, when on song, one of the wine world's great bargains. A key phrase to look for is "sur lie," indicating maturation on lees (the dead yeast cells left over after fermentation); this adds texture and interest to its refreshing charms. 2010 Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie "Wild Yeast," Domaine de Les Grands Presbytères £7.95, Underwood Wine This is a contender for the best-value white I have so far tried in 2013. Unusually fermented with wild yeast, it has herbal, salty characters that bring beguiling complexity. 2009 Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie "Signature," Domaine du Haut Bourg £15.50, Sommelier's Choice