Where the Arty Flock in Seoul (Hint: It's Not Gangnam) Most Western visitors to Seoul head right for the Gangnam neighborhood, whose glossy shops and well-heeled clientele were immortalized in the monster pop hit "Gangnam Style." But the city's arty crowd is flocking to Hapjeong, which until recently was merely an unexciting residential extension of Hongdae, the bustling commercial district surrounding the renowned arts school Hongik University. A marker of this area's ascent was last fall's opening of Mecenatpolis, a complex that includes luxury apartments, office buildings, an arts center and a shopping mall. But the neighborhood's charm lies in its narrow streets full of cafes, global restaurants, underground music spaces and galleries. - JULIE ALVIN Pictured: Mudaeruk, a hangout for Seoul's creative class.