In "A Change in the Kitchen," Julia Moskin writes about how a new vanguard of women is emerging as the next generation of leaders in the nation's best restaurants. WHO is Lauren DeSteno and WHAT is "revolutionary" about her new title? WHY are more and more women beginning to run American restaurant kitchens? WHY is it not easy to track restaurant workers by sex? HOW many of the 2012 graduates of the International Culinary Center were women? WHAT examples does this article provide of a "macho" culture in restaurant kitchens? HOW is the restaurant business changing to "accommodate real life" - like the choice to have children? WHEN did professional cooking change from a menial trade to a respectable career, according to the article? HOW many, if any, of the restaurants or chefs mentioned in this article had you heard of? WHERE is there a restaurant near you with a female chef or sous-chef? WHY do you think male chefs get more media attention than their female colleagues? Much of this article describes the sacrifices chefs of both sexes are willing to make for their jobs. HOW much would you give up to do what you love for a living?