Greek island retreats: four of the best The Old Markets, Symi A two-hour ferry ride from Rhodes, the Dodecanese island of Symi is so lovely you don't really want to tell others about it. A rugged gem with a harbour of crumbling neoclassical mansions, it offers a wonderful local experience and some of the best food on the islands. Until recently there were almost no good hotels on Symi, but now there is an outstanding one: the Old Markets, housed in a restored market building where sponges and spices were traded until it was bombed in 1944. Located up about 50 steps in the harbour area, the Old Markets is owned and run by British-born Andrew Davies and his Italian partner, Carlo Palumbo. Each room is inspired by a trade route and filled with antiques and contemporary textiles. Four are off a terrace overlooking the harbour, the perfect spot for a champagne breakfast, and the fifth, a suite, has a private terrace. Andrew and Carlo are professional chefs, so the food is great. Lunch and dinner are on request, and at dusk aperitivos are served on the terrace. Details: Doubles from €175 per night. Children must be 16 or over unless you book the whole place on an exclusive-use basis (i-escape.com/the-old-markets). Rhodes travel guide