Wine: "South Africa's wine industry had to reinvent itself W hen apartheid ended, around 20 years ago, the South African wine industry - like most others there - had to reinvent itself. But progress has been rapid and it is now producing many of the fruit-forward, reliable-quality and good-value wines UK consumers demand. Nowhere is the contrast between old and new greater than with chenin blanc, where industrialised processes have given way to techniques that really can scale the quality heights. Even some entry-point versions have benefitted from this conversion, as demonstrated by 2012 Cambalala Chenin Blanc (£3.79, Aldi), with its zippy grapefruit acidity that slowly develops into banana and fresh apple flavours without compromising its lightness. A step up in quality takes us to 2011 Extra Special Chenin Blanc (£6.97, Asda), which retains that banana and apple fruit but adds touches of honey and chocolate to the finish, delivering a smoother, richer texture and giving greater balance to the acidity. Southerly parts of the country - around Elgin, for example - are now exploiting slower ripening conditions to produce terrific sauvignon blanc, but good versions can still be found further north. The 2012 Finest Olifants River Sauvignon Blanc (£7.99, Tesco) originates 120 miles north of Cape Town but winemaker Bruce Jack uses the vineyard's cooler sea breezes to create a fresh and crisp sauvignon with typical southern-hemisphere gooseberry flavours. The customary citrus finish is, however, boosted by herbs and slightly sweeter hints of orange. Elsewhere in the Western Cape, sauvignon is blended with colombard in 2012 The Whale Caller Sauvignon Blanc Colombard (£4.99, Waitrose) to create rounded pear influences that take the edge off the lime-centred acidity and add floral touches and a gentle impression of sweetness without reducing light and grassy freshness. First up in the reds is 2012 South African Cape Red (£4.99, M&S), which blends cinsault with ruby cabernet to produce an uncomplicated juicy wine with red cherry flavours and touches of all-spice. Then there is the soft and gentle 2011 Cimarosa South Africa Cabernet Sauvignon (£3.99, Lidl), with its leafy, minty overtones and appealing ripe cherry fruit. Without the blackcurrant colour and flavours or much tannin, this is not typical cabernet sauvignon but for light, drink-anytime red it hits the spot. Lightness takes on a more serious aspect in the 2011 Tiger Horse Old Vine Cinsault (£6.99, Morrisons). Any delicacy in its colour is amply counterbalanced by the real depth of raspberry and expressive cherry fruit and the hints of pepper, flowers and menthol that illustrate how much more complexity can come from wines with 40 or 50 years on the clock. Equally serious is the nicely made blend of 2010 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (£7.99, Majestic), with an attractive spice and mocha finish to round out the cherry and jammy blackcurrant fruit. South Africa is doing well with cabernet but other varieties also prosper. Consider 2012 South African Shiraz (£5.49, Co-op), which combines full but juicy blackcurrant fruit, subsidiary flavours of herbs and a food-friendly tannic twist at the end along with sweet touches of cinnamon. Finally to pinotage, often criticised for its aromas of burnt rubber. No such problems with 2012 Taste the Difference Fairtrade Pinotage (£7.99, Sainsbury's), thanks to rich and floral damson flavours, soft touches of vanilla and fresh acidity. n