Simon Rogan at The Cube by Electrolux: Restaurant review Every course - of eight, if you count the substantial crab canapes served with the welcome glass of vintage Joseph Perrier Champagne - included at least two such ingredients, which added more to some dishes than to others. In a starter of cod "yolk" - cod mousse in a saffron skin - with squid ink emulsion and kale, it was the salty crunch of the kale that held the best flavour. The yolk which, Rogan announced, "should ooze down onto the rest when broken," didn't, and as such was as disappointing as a hard egg yolk is at breakfast when one has asked for soft. In another of the starter dishes, an intense broth of turnip (the foraged ingredient) with Westcombe Cheddar gnocchi, it was the tiny baby turnips that stood out as the most interesting component although I enjoyed the whole small serving. A fish course of poached plaice was a little overcooked, but the accompanying brown butter and plump poached mussels combined to make it, at least for taste, one of my favourite dishes of the night. I'm afraid though that I couldn't discern any "Red Russian" or "oxalis root" - or indeed even tell you what they are. Guinea hen with a gutsy, musky offal ragu was successful and the charred baby leeks and minty pennyroyal just managed to make their voices heard over the meat's louder flavours. As the last of the savoury courses it was right that this should be a crescendo before we commenced our desserts and, with an elegant, tannic 2010 Serge Laloue Sancerre, also the best wine pairing of the night (the rest of the wines were good, if polite, whites: a Riesling, a Gruner Veltliner and a Montagny 1er Cru - and a slightly-too-sweet Elysium Black Muscat with the desserts). Liquorice overpowered all the other flavours in our first dessert of wholemeal stout ice-cream with sea buckthorn. The final sweet of lemon verbena, pear and hazelnut served on Cumbrian slate - inexplicably listed as an ingredient, unless I seriously missed a trick and was supposed to eat or lick it - was nice in the way that a boiled sweet after a cigarette is nice, a fruity counterpoint to the strong aftertaste from before. Perhaps I just didn't "get" Rogan's style of cooking, the subtleties at play, the cleverness and precision of technique. Or perhaps, eating out as much as I do, I'm just jaded to things that other diners would find more impressive. I rather suspect, however, that this was just a rather underwhelming meal, and that out of his natural Cumbrian habitat Rogan played things safe and we didn't see him at his best. Given though that this meal - inclusive of champagne, wine, water and service - costs £175 per person for lunch and £215 per person for dinner, anyone wanting to experience Simon Rogan's cooking while in London would be better served spending their money at Roganic (£80 for ten courses). Future chefs at the Cube include Tom Kerridge and Atul Kochhar and dinner in their estimable establishments can be had for far cheaper too. The setting may be spectacular but the mark-up is excessive, exposing Electrolux's Cube for the Ozymandian feat of vanity which I fear it is. If I were the CEO of Electrolux, I'd be fuming. Chef Schedule November 5-11: Simon Rogan November 12-18: Tom Kerridge November 19-25: Jonray & Peter November 26-December 2: Claude Bosi December 3-9: Atul Kochhar December 10-16: Tom Kerridge December 17-23: Daniel Clifford December 24-31: TBC Hugh Wright, a self-professed "thirtysomething bon viveur," writes the restaurant blog TwelvePointFivePercent.com. Covering all manner of restaurants from fish "n" chips shops to fine dining, he reports humorously on the complete experience, not just the food. Follow him @HRWright.