A good Yapp about great wine There's a clue to one of their special interests out in the courtyard: a replica of the fountain at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. "And believe me, we now know a lot about how fountains work that you wouldn't ever think you'd have to know," says Tom drily. When Robin was building up his list in the Seventies the Rhône was relatively under-appreciated. An old price list hanging on the wall of the tasting room shows that you could pick up a 1977 Chave Hermitage for less than double the cost of a Pascal Frères Côtes du Rhône. Robin was there before anyone else; Yapp still imports Chave's legendary wines (current vintage of Hermitage: £140 a bottle, if they have any left they can sell you). Auguste, Pierre & Olivier Clape is another of their feted producers. That Condrieu he sold through a tiny newspaper ad? It was made by Georges Vernay, whose top wines now sell on allocation. They're still strong on the Rhône - as well as the Loire and Provence. And the new Yapp generation has continued to unearth unsung Mediterranean wines. Thanks to a neighbour who had written The Rough Guide to Corsica, Jason and Tom have spent much time rattling around the rocky island, tasting wines and persuading growers to collaborate. "We are glad we persevered," as Jason says in his list, "because the inimitable, Maquis-scented wines of Corsica have proved incredibly popular back here." Rightly so. These two are always piling into their blue van and disappearing off to Provence or elsewhere in the south of France on wine-hunting trips. They are highly dedicated bons vivants, as well as hard workers. Jason can discourse at length on the best way to make ratatouille. Both share an ability to empty a wine glass without apparently raising it to their lips, which is one reason why I have always declined invitations to join them on a trip; I fear it would kill me. Better to stick to a tasting here in Wiltshire, where a few bottles of the archive stock that Yapp occasionally releases are opened. I'm often asked where you can go to buy single bottles of good, older wine, and it's a tricky question to answer as most of this sort of stuff changes hands young and/or by the case. Library releases, where a merchant decides to sell stock from their cellar, is one good way (see box for a couple of these). I also try one of the new Yapp finds, a red burgundy that strangely reminds me of a red Rhône. I have just written that in my notes when Tom reads my mind: "We think we might like it because it is a bit Rhôney." Well, yes. It's Rhône we choose to drink out at dinner. By the end of the evening Jason is threatening us with a game of Scrabble. Show me those tiles, they are like catnip to me. That is the whole point of good wines, isn't it? Good evenings, and good company. Yapp classics Domaine JL Chave Hermitage Blanc 2001 France (yapp.co.uk, £120/bottle) Smells like waxy white blossom, and tastes slightly of honeycomb. Gigondas Domaine St Gayan 1990 France (yapp.co.uk, £30) The result of aging a good southern Rhône red: confit of red fruit and figs streaked with black olives. Wine available from Yapp Brothers Victoria's enjoyed this week Châteauneuf-du-Pape Le Vieux Donjon 2009 France (14%, yapp.co.uk, £29.95) A nearly perfect châteauneuf-du-pape with a classic shape and flow, and a gentle, soft texture. Although it does taste absolutely delicious right now it would be almost criminal not to put it to one side for a few years and let it develop. Vin de Corse Porto Vecchio Domaine de Torraccia 2009 Corsica (13.5%, yapp.co.uk, £13.25) This red has a ruffled, Rhône-like texture and is made with two tongue-twisting local varieties, nielluccio and sciacarello, together with grenache and syrah. One of the new Corsican discoveries, it reminds me of raspberry leaves, soil, tea and wild herbs. Drink with wild boar salami and make the vineyard owner, who's sick of the beasts trashing his crop, very happy. Lirac La Fermade Domaine Maby 2010 France (14.5%, yapp.co.uk, £11.75) Lirac is a corner of the Rhône just to the north-west of Avignon, not far from the village of Tavel, famous for its deep pink wines. Long under-valued even now, it produces some excellent wines, of which this syrah, mourvèdre and grenache noir blend with dark, rugged fruit, is a fine example.