Christmas 2012: Susy Atkins' white wine to drink with Christmas starters and turkey I'm dreaming of a white-wine Christmas and it features lashings of creamy, fine burgundy. The French region's classic whites are a brilliant choice at this time of year, mainly because they are made from the chardonnay grape, which delivers the full, buttery, rounded texture that marries beautifully with richer - even smoked - white fish, salmon and shellfish starters, as well as (and this is the canny bit) the roast bird. So far, so traditional. What about more adventurous white wines? Ones that can pull off the double act of matching a lighter fish starter and a heartier turkey main? The hugely fruity, peachy grape viognier will do it, as long as the starter is full flavoured; think lobster, crab or richly sauced white fish/prawns. I love Aussie viognier with roast turkey. White rhônes are another option, their slightly nutty, savoury qualities shining with smoked white fish, especially trout. Or you could splash out: a decent champagne always dazzles with light, savoury starters. The surprise is that it can comfortably partner the turkey, too, making a luxurious and thoroughly different match. Just don't throw any peppery sausages, bacon rolls or cranberry sauce at it - no bubbly can handle all the trimmings. Laurent Desvignes Chablis 2010, Burgundy (Waitrose, £13.99) A lean, elegant chablis with tones of mandarin oranges, lemon zest and light cream, refreshing and subtle with shellfish/white fish starters and just about rich enough to stay on for the turkey. Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2012, South Australia (Majestic, £9.99, down to £7.99 each for two or more until 4 February) A ripe, juicy Australian, bursting with fresh peach and apricot. It effortlessly matches the turkey, but will work with starters that have notably strong flavours, rich sauces or mild spices, too. Tesco White Burgundy 2010/11, France (£6.79) An affordable, simple but attractive southern burgundian chardonnay, nicely balanced, with a refreshing streak of lemon and a buttery, rounded finish. A sound all-rounder for the Christmas feast. TIPPLE TIP rose's bouquets... 'The Master of Wine Rose Murray Brown's tastings and wine dinners in Edinburgh, Glasgow and St Andrews are some of Britain's best. Her new season starts on 17 January with a beginner's session. "Open" gift vouchers for her events would make a fine gift for Scottish wine buffs.' rosemurraybrown.com