Soul food: Katherine Brown on catching and cooking trout with her parents I grew up in Victoria, Australia. Our house was in the mountains near our family's vineyards. Living 12 miles from the nearest town, we didn't have the luxury of walking round the corner if we'd forgotten something for dinner. We got things from the river and the vegetable garden instead. I don't think that my dad was sad that he never had a son, but he certainly brought us girls up to be tomboys. We never wore dresses. On the weekends he'd pile me and my two sisters into the car and head up to the top of the steam to go trout fishing. Mum and Dad have always been keen on their fly-fishing; it was actually Mum who taught Dad how to do it! We were fascinated to watch her gut the fish. We'd cut open the stomach and talk about what the fish had been eating, so we knew what kind of bait to use next time. We cooked them whole, in foil, with butter, dill and a squeeze of lemon. Once we were about five or six years old Dad would give us little glasses of wine and, instead of making us finish everything on our plates, he'd say, 'You don't have to taste the wine, but if you can tell me two things about the smell, you can leave the table. I've recently taken fly-fishing lessons with my boyfriend. It's a nice flashback to when I was young.