Cold and Warm, Chicken and Noodles June 8, 2012, 5:13 pm This week's City Kitchen column features one of my warm-weather favorites, a rice noodle salad garnished with sweet herbs, peanuts and grilled chicken. Though it is similar in some ways to the Chinese cold sesame noodles that New Yorkers have come to love (I'm a fan of those too), this version is based more on the kinds made in Vietnam or Indonesia, with a lovely interplay of textures, and a light, fresh feeling. In addition, the chicken is grilled and served warm, adding another dimension to the dish. Regarding rice noodles, there are a lot of types to choose from, and it can be a little confusing to know how to prepare them - the directions on the package don't necessarily help. The type I prefer are the skinny rice noodles from Thailand or Vietnam labeled "vermicelli." For the most part they don't require actual boiling, though they do need boiling water. Once the water in a large pot reaches the boil, turn off the heat, add the noodles and let them soak. Check on their progress frequently by tasting a noodle. Most brands will be softened sufficiently (and still al dente) in 7 or 8 minutes, at which point they must be rinsed in cold water and drained. But some brands will take a longer or shorter soak. If using slightly thicker rice noodles, pre-soften by soaking them in barely warm water for 15 minutes, then boil for a minute or two before cooling. In either case, the noodles may be cooked up to 2 hours ahead and held at room temperature.