Beef hand pies with marrow and kidney 550g plain flour 325g unsalted butter or lard, diced 5-6 tbsp ice-cold water 1 beaten egg, to glaze Preheat the oven to 220C/gas mark 7 and roast the marrow bones until golden. Remove and cool. Heat about a third of the oil or dripping in a large pan and gently cook the garlic, onions and celery in it until soft. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Pat the beef dry with a kitchen towel before you begin, so that it will fry well. Add more of the fat to the pan, turn up the heat and brown the beef on all sides, cooking it in batches and setting it aside (with the vegetables) as you go. The beef should be well browned to give the stew colour and flavour. Add more fat as necessary. Do the same with the kidney and set aside with the beef. Add the herbs and wine to the pan and bring to the boil, scraping away at the base of the pan with a wooden spoon. Return the meat and vegetables to the pan, sprinkle with the flour and stir well. Add the beef marrow bones and enough stock to cover, then stir and bring to the boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the top. Turn down the heat to a slow bubble and cook for approximately two hours until the meat is tender. Season. Skim excess fat from the surface. Remove the beef marrow bones, scoop out the marrow, then cut it into chunks and add back to the stew. You will now have the richest possible filling, full of flavour. While the beef simmers, make the pastry, using the method for the chicken, leek and tarragon pie (p70). Roll the pastry into two 'sausages', each 4cm width and of equal length, before you chill it in the fridge. Once chilled, cut a piece of pastry from the 'sausage' about 2cm thick and roll out into a disc (on a floured surface), large enough to line the pie moulds. Repeat for all the bases, then roll out 10 others for the lids. Line the moulds with the pastry, then fill two thirds full with the beef filling. Brush the edges with water and put on the lid. Pinch the edges together very firmly, then snip an air vent in the centre of the lid. Brush with egg wash. You can freeze or refrigerate the pies in this state, ready to cook at any time, but if you are baking them immediately, preheat the oven to 220C/gas mark 7, then place on a baking sheet and bake until golden and steam puffs from the hole in the lid (20-25 minutes). Seasonal variations Summer/ autumn Venison, hare or mixed game (in autumn only.) Autumn to spring Mutton Additions: fresh button or chestnut mushrooms, raw oysters. Hamish Anderson's wine choice 2009 Côtes-du- Rhône, Domaine Charvin, Rhône Valley, France £12, vinetrail.co.uk. Côtes-du-Rhône is a great stalwart to have up your sleeve for all things offal. Although from the ripe, decadent 2009 vintage, Charvin's style is one of elegance and purity, which is ideal as it provides a fresh counterpoint to the pie filling.