3 From the Runway - NYTimes.com Maxime Simoens, Gustavo Lins and Yiqing Yin, summer 2012 couture season, in Paris. PARIS - Maxime Simoens has done quite a lot in a very short time. He dresses his fair share of diva singers, including Beth Ditto (who sat in the front row of his summer 2012 haute couture show) and Beyoncé. He recently was named artistic director at Leonard, the French fashion house known for its floral prints. And, most important, he has come up with a recognizable style in just three runway collections. Inspired by the Gaspard Noé film "Enter the Void," his most recent collection became dynamic through the clever use of color blocking. It started in its most pixilated incarnation as a tiny pattern on a white crepe de Chine dress moving down to an organza hem, stiff lacquered panels crafting sculptural dresses and, finally, a mosaic mix of sequins anchoring flowing evening gowns in incandescent organza. His form-fitting silhouette and intriguing play with graphic patterns shows a designer who knows how to cut and is still young enough to take a few risks. How else can you explain his audacious choice of cork in the construction of a dress? Control and release The Chinese designer Yiqing Yin "s second runway collection was a lesson in control and release, but it was a study that felt organic in nature and unforced in execution. The winner of this year's first collection award from Andam, the French designers" organization, Ms. Yin's collection revealed her as an experimental designer, manipulating textiles to create unconventional designs. A deceptively simple dress in fluid jersey that lapped in layers about the body was followed by one with an intricate micro-pleated central panel or straps that flowed like rivulets down and around the bodice of a gown. The highly sculptural collection effectively created three-dimensional designs, fabrics curving up and over the body or fur coats razed to produce an undulating effect across the pelts. The designer was able to craft even her most daring designs in a way that made them feasible to wear - something that many young designers still need to learn. Muted and fluid The Spanish city of Seville was the starting point this season for the designer Gustavo Lins . But instead of getting bogged down in the trappings of traditional dress, the references were decidedly understated. So, just a hint of a flamenco dancer's dress could be seen in the ripples of a fluted skirt; the fitted bolero shape could be perceived in a short knitted sweater. The color palette also kept this collection relatively quiet. Pitch black, grey and rich greens and reds seemed as far away as possible from the bright and bold shades usually associated with Spain. The collection was dominated by long and fluid pieces that were offset by the introduction of circle cuts. Cowl necklines styled to slide off the shoulder, fur wraps that dipped low in the back and slices of skin peeking out from the torso of a jersey dress all helped to give the collection a bit of energy. But if the collection was a tad low-key, that only helped put on display the designer's understated grace.