In Men's Wear, a Separation of Europe and the States In back-to-back shows on Friday, New York designers began to make a case for what separates American men's wear from the fashion we've just seen in the Milan and Paris collections. In Europe, there was a strong nod to formality in what Style.com dubbed the "season of the suit." Here, the direction seemed to be more casual, with strong collections from labels like Tommy Hilfiger, N. Hoolywood and Billy Reid that showed takes on denim and weathered-looking tweed jackets and coats. Mr. Hilfiger's show was a big production, far more elaborate than the other men's shows and possibly many of the women's ones to come this week. In the Park Avenue Armory uptown, he had transformed the cavernous hall into a gated park. At the entrance to the show, guests passed through gates branded with Mr. Hilfiger's initials set in iron. A brick runway, in the shape of a large square, was bordered with gravel and artificial trees, under which cafe tables were scattered for seating. Bradley Cooper, Victor Cruz and Kellan Lutz sat near the entrance of the runway, while around the corner was Russell Simmons, who shared his table with a small dog, whose head occasionally popped out of a Louis Vuitton carrier bag to catch the show. When the photographers cornered the designer's daughter Ally Hilfiger, wearing a see-through blouse, and asked her to remove a large floppy hat for pictures, she barked at them like Gisele Bündchen in a locker room. "Why the *#?! would I want you to see my eyes?" she roared. Mr. Hilfiger's collection was called "cadet academy," inspired by uniforms with officer's coats and pea coats, but the look was sporty, some of them shown in thin bonded leather that looked more like scuba gear. There were also blazers fused with the sleeves of a baseball jacket, similar to those he showed for spring, but in less jarring color combinations. Many of his coats and blazers, in combinations navy, oxblood and gray, had braiding details on the sleeves, just below the elbow. Slide Show: Tommy Hilfiger, Men's Fall 2012 Slide Show: N. Hoolywood, Fall 2012 Slide Show: Billy Reid, Fall 2012