Store Review - Oyama Sausage Company in Vancouver - NYTimes.com Nowadays, it can seem as if every chef has swung a baton of saucisson sec over basement heating pipes and hung out a shingle proclaiming himself a charcutier. Meanwhile, at Oyama Sausage Company, in a corner of Vancouver's bustling Granville Island Public Market, Jan van der Lieck has been quietly selling his popular pâtés and sausages since long before hot capocollo was haute. In fact, he may be the most gifted, and certainly the most diversely talented, meat man in North America. Mr. van der Lieck, 49, who owns Oyama with his wife, Christine, is a fifth-generation sausage-maker from Germany who honed his craft during more than a decade's apprenticeship in Europe before moving to British Columbia; he opened his stall at Granville Island in 2001. The name Oyama comes from a town in the interior of British Columbia, where he'd previously made sausage with an uncle. How broad is the selection at Oyama? Oscar Mayer should be so ambitious. Some 200 house-made products cram the refrigerated case of Oyama's bustling stall on any given day: Tanned hams piled like boulders. Mahogany legs of prosciutto, trotters still attached. Two dozen fresh sausages, from boudin noir to free-range elk with apple and red wine. It's a carnivore's carnival. During a recent visit, two young women pressed themselves to the glass, gazing at thick coils of kielbasa, as rapt as if they stood before the diamond solitaires at Harry Winston. Oyama also provides charcuterie to several of Vancouver's hottest restaurants, including Salt Tasting Room and Daniel Boulud's DB Bistro Moderne. But Mr. van der Lieck doesn't settle for just the traditional. In Asian-influenced Vancouver, "I'm always coming upon different things I want to try," he said. Such as? "I want to make a sausage with wolfberries and Shaoxing and wood ears," he explained, referring to the Chinese rice wine and mushrooms. Planning a snack sack for the 2010 Winter Olympics? You could stick with that hot capocollo - but why would you, when there's unctuous duck prosciutto or, truer to the spirit of the moment, a traditional French jambon aux herbes des montagnes, a mellow ham covered with a soft snowfall of mountain herbs? Better yet, why make yourself choose at all? Oyama Sausage Company; Granville Island Public Market, 1689 Johnston Street; (604) 327-7407; www.oyamasausage.ca. Charcuterie ranges from 1.99 Canadian dollars, or $1.94, at 103 Canadian dollars to the U.S. dollar, to 9.99 dollars, per 100 grams. Open daily, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.