Drought: how to adapt in the garden Commercial growers use this information and instead of producing vigorously growing shrubs with one or two straggly shoots, the lower water level gives rise to better plants with tighter-knit growth and more flowers produced closer together. Cotinus and Buddleia are good examples: they react very quickly to lower water levels, they shut down their system and can tolerate dry periods for some time. New leaves (if any) that are produced will be smaller and closer together. Different plants have different tolerances though, so watch your range - and if any choice plants are really flagging give them any spare water. The old saying, "The shadow of the gardener is the best manure" certainly applies here. Many gardeners think you cannot produce good crops without extra water, but some plants are surprisingly drought tolerant. Herbs produce aromatic oils. Drier conditions mean even more oils are produced, making them more flavoursome. With vegetables, although higher water levels give higher yields and larger, more handsome specimens, this does not equate to greater flavour. If you are going to water, when you do so makes a difference. Trials carried out by what was formerly the NVRS (National Vegetable Research Station) give useful information. They found that summer cabbage (extremely sensitive to water shortage) watered 11 times increased the yield 100 per cent, watered twice increased it by 80 per cent yet only one watering two weeks before harvest improved yield by 65 per cent. Beans are best watered at the start of flowering and, if you water during pod forming, it improves pod set and quality. Four gallons per square yard once a week, if dry, will help apparently, but in my "desert" garden in the East Midlands, I may soak them three times maximum during a dry summer and still get more than enough beans. Climbing French are generally better in dry conditions than runner beans. According to the NVRS, lettuce, courgettes, spinach and new potatoes do respond to frequent watering, but most of us have gluts in these and by cutting down on water you can get tastier, adequate crops. Carrots, broccoli, sprouts, leeks and onions are not that responsive to watering once established. But the NVRS recommended watering sweetcorn at the tasselling and cob swelling stage, if dry. If you have little time and water, applying bulky organic matters will increase your soil's ability to hold water. Adding a thick mulch after watering will not only save water, but increase the beneficial earthworm population. Keep on top of weeds to prevent water competition from their roots too, but don't hoe as this encourages evaporation. Biochar, from Carbon Gold (carbongold.com), is a non-bulky material that increases the soil's capacity to hold water (and minerals) and can make a big improvement to soil structure. When you do water, it is rarely worth applying less than two gallons per square yard (although directed to rows/plants) unless watering in transplants. For high-water-demanding crops, such as celery, grow in a large pot with a saucer under and keep some water in reservoir. Pick around plants to give continuous yields. There are pitfalls with watering too. Root crops can produce unbalanced, lush foliage if given too much. If you water many root vegetables after a dry period you may well get splitting. In droughts I always think of a tip from an irrigation adviser who was working in Greece. There they soaked the beans when they went in and then ignored them, and despite really hot temperatures with no rain they all cropped well. The roots followed the initial water down and then the plants can fend for themselves. Hopefully, gardeners will adapt to our "low water regime" too and may even have better tasting veg and well adapted plants.