Calyer - NYC - Restaurant Review Scallop ceviche at Calyer in Greenpoint. 92 Calyer Street (Franklin Street), Greenpoint, Brooklyn, (347) 889-6323, calyerbrooklyn.com A checklist for blending in here: bring a nautically striped sweater, chunky eyewear and a taste for quirk. This snug wood-paneled spot that opened last summer is the new restaurant from the team behind Anella, a few blocks north. Calyer shares Anella's taste (for rich meats and fish, dim lighting and tart cocktails) and its commitment to non-ordinary food. The menu is rubbed with a patina of Latin American flavor, so the beet salad comes with "onion escabeche" instead of ordinary pickled onions; brussels sprouts are seasoned (indiscernibly) with culantro. All the dishes ($9 to $15) are the same size, about the heft of a large appetizer. These creations are exceptionally inexpensive, and some of them actually taste great: tender scallop ceviche has sweet brightness from a citrus and Peruvian chile bath, plus crunch from corn nuts. A big bowl of thin, shattering chicharrones (preserved in pork fat before being air-dried, then deep-fried) are surprisingly well paired with a sharp anchovy vinaigrette. The chef, Gabriel Moya (late of Falai and the Modern), seems to have many interests in addition to how food tastes. One is providing surprise on each plate, with accents like savory granola, bacon broth and crushed peanuts (these last, as a topping for broccoli rabe and poached celery). Another is putting vegetables at the center of the plate: the few offerings without offal or pork are likely to feature heaps of brussels sprouts or butternut squash. Yet another is vertical construction: ziggurats rise from ribbons of veal tongue, and swirls of parsnip spring up from the plate like the Guggenheim Bilbao. Only a few dishes are wholeheartedly Latin, but the wines, all from Spain or Portugal, are consistently interesting. One red is described as "textured and bright with hints of volcano." Those who like this sort of thing will find Calyer endearing. Those who don't will be sure they've stumbled onto the set of "Portlandia: East."