Klosters: A ski holiday fit for a king Service like this invariably comes at a price and, given the exclusive associations of both the Palmer-Tomkinsons and Klosters, it would be easy to dismiss a PT Ski holiday as OTT. However, my four-day off-piste trip cost just over £1,000 for half-board, transfers and guiding, which goes some way to explaining why the three other guests making up our group turn out to be young, athletic skiers of "normal" means. Over the next few days, James proves to be tirelessly courteous, carrying skis for the ladies, conjuring chocolate out of his backpack and offering up the best untracked lines to his guests. He counts the 500 Marden's Club children (including four of his own) among his most loyal fans and, when his brows aren't knotted in concern for the welfare of his wards, his boyish enthusiasm is spontaneous and infectious. James is also refreshingly down-to-earth and prudent, eschewing costly ski kit for a simple Viyella shirt and woollen jumper and expressing mild disbelief that his sister Santa's new brand of luxurious ski jumpers, Longlanier - that are sellign well even at £400 a piece. In the same vein, he suggests we drive to Klosters Dorf, a smattering of hotels and apartments at the base of the Madrisa gondola, for pizza at the Pizzeria AlBerto, which he (correctly) states is tastier, and less expensive, than the pizzeria in Klosters Platz. Insider tips like these are much appreciated by James" clients, who make the most of the complimentary PT Ski concierge service to book meals, guides, instructors, activities and massages. Also included in the PT package are Freddy and Ben, two BASI-qualified skiers who are on hand to escort guests around the local ski area, drive them to the restaurants and shops and generally assist where possible. People are often surprised to learn that Klosters boasts a colossal amount of challenging and varied off-piste terrain, in addition to some 200 miles of pistes on Parsenn and three further mountains in the Davos/Klosters ski area. They're even more surprised to learn it's also home to a kebab shop... The resort's Royal patronage has created an illusion of pampered skiing, glittering boutiques and sumptuous hotels, which is largely untrue. While Klosters is home to seven four-star hotels - and despite its Royal Connections - there are no five-star properties and the most coveted hotel is the three-star Chesa Grischuna. And, although a handful of jewellery shops dot the main street of the small town, Klosters" Bahnhofstrasse is a long way from its namesake in Zürich, with the Coop occupying the largest, and busiest, spot. Finding an affordable restaurant in Klosters can, admittedly, be a challenge, particularly with the strong Swiss franc - your best bet is the Sport Centre restaurant, above the ice rink. Much of Klosters" enduring rustic charm can be credited to the local farming community, still a force to be reckoned with in the Prättigau valley. The farmers are also to be thanked for allowing skiers to access their gently undulating pastures, dotted with timber and stone sheds, which form long, scenic off-piste runs down to atmospheric hamlets. With our excellent guide, Mirco Auer, shepherding our group around Klosters" deserted off-piste terrain, and James arranging our lunches in and pick-ups in sleepy hamlets, there was nothing left for us to do but enjoy the skiing. We whooped our way between pine trees bowed under thick blankets of snow and bounced through alpine meadows. We grew accustomed to having the mountains to ourselves and our tracks being the only ones in virgin snowfields, but were pleasantly surprised to discover plenty of other skiers as we enjoyed celebratory drinks in Gaudy's rowdy beer tent at the end of each day. It has been, quite simply, a ski holiday fit for a king. Klosters essentials PT Ski (020 7736 5557; www.ptski.com) arranges bespoke ski holidays to Klosters. Off-piste weekends (four days and nights) cost from £1,063 per person, including half board, ski guiding and airport transfers, and take place through February and March. SWISS (0845 601 956; www.swiss.com) operates daily flights from London Heathrow, London City, Birmingham and Manchester to Zurich. Fares start from £113.