Corkbuzz Wine Studio - NYC - Restaurant Review Ramsay De Give for The New York Times Bone marrow with blue cheese at Corkbuzz Wine Studio. 13 East 13th Street (Fifth Avenue); (646) 873-6071; corkbuzz.com In an area that can feel like a food court for New York University students, Corkbuzz Wine Studio stands out as a destination for grown-ups. No rickety stools or sticky tables: instead, a high-gloss wine bar with lofty goals, ambitious food and prices to match. An owner, Laura Maniec, who was a partner and the beverage director of B. R. Guest, has built a room that works for drinking, eating and teaching, with communal tables in the back, high bar tables along the wall and low squishy chairs in front. She is also in charge of wine here and teaches most of the classes. The hum of a mixed crowd proves it: there's something for everyone, with 30 wines by the glass ($9 to over $50); Champagnes at many prices; small plates, from flighty (fried oysters in scallion batter, $15) to filling (lamb chops, $24). The list is not huge but unusual and good, with floral and aromatic wines like muskatellers and lagreins. The charcuterie and cheese lists are similarly sleek: Tennessee country ham and L'Etivaz, a proto-Gruyère from Switzerland, are particularly wine-friendly. So are the waiters, knowledgeable without being know-it-alls. But you won't find depth in Italian reds or a taste of Spanish jamón. The wines are from all over, and so are the food flavors, from astringency (hamachi, endive, grapefruit) to indulgence (bone marrow with blue cheese). The idea is to offer food to complement a range of wines, but any good menu should: here, it's not easy to form a coherent meal. The menu changes often; recently, the chef Hayan Yi's strongest suits were juicy short ribs ($22), shrimp with spicy squash butter ($17), cassava fries topped with a swoosh of brandade ($9), and anything with brussels sprouts. Skip the clumsy desserts. Sip a raisin-scented Madeira or plummy Porto instead.