David Hockney's Yorkshire - Telegraph I began my Hockney trail away from the Wolds in West Yorkshire at Saltaire, not far from Hockney's birthplace. Here Salts Mill, a beautifully restored Victorian textile mill, houses the world's largest permanent collection of Hockney's work. The mill, a painting of which features in the RA exhibition, was the brainchild of Titus Salt, a Nonconformist mill owner and philanthropist who also built houses for his workers - still there and now privately owned - a fine Italianate church, a school, a hospital and a lovely park. Sobriety and hard work were all he asked in return. In the 1850s, Salts Mill was the largest factory in Europe and the fact that it is still standing proud is down to the foresight of the late Jonathan Silver, an entrepreneur and friend of Hockney who bought the building in 1987 and created what it is today: a gallery and arts centre run by his family with several high-end shops, a restaurant and a smart café. Like Hockney, Silver was born in Bradford and it was he who was instrumental in getting the artist to use Yorkshire as a subject once again. That was back in 1997 following a prolonged stay in his home county by Hockney, who then painted the Wolds from memory when he returned to Los Angeles. Leaving Saltaire and heading across Yorkshire towards the Wolds - a crescent of chalk hills and dry valleys running from the Humber Estuary to Flamborough Head - you begin to discover what Hockney sees in the area: a "spatial experience," as he has put it. Edith Devaney, co-curator of the RA exhibition, said the reason he left England was for "the light and space of America's west coast. Now he has come back and found it here. West Yorkshire may be wilder (and attract more people), but here on the east coast this undulating, manicured, arable landscape offers a kind of freedom and wide-open views, while the changeable weather, distinct seasons and light (because of the proximity to the North Sea) have also fuelled the artist's vivid imagination. It's also a region that Hockney defends passionately; last year saw him attacking plans to build several "ugly" wind turbines in the Wolds. With many foot and cycle paths, it's not a difficult place to explore but we did it an even easier way - by car. In the company of two engaging locals, David and Susan Neave, historians and friends of Hockney, I headed for the particular spots that have inspired him, driving along Woldgate, a quiet country road, that has been a fruitful source of work: The Arrival of Spring in Woldgate, for example, forms the centrepiece of the RA show and comprises one huge oil painting and 51 iPad prints. We also passed other sites where the artist has perched his easel to paint signature works such as Woldgate Woods, Three Trees at Thixendale, The Tunnel (near Kilham), The Road Across the Wolds and The Big Hawthorn (near Rudston, where the churchyard is home to the tallest standing stone in Britain, dating from 3000-4000BC, and the grave of Winifred Holtby, the author of South Riding). However, it is not just the landscape that is eye-catching. As we wound our way through the lanes we passed a host of architecturally impressive villages, such as Lund (home of The Wellington, an excellent pub), South Dalton (where you'll find the Michelin-rated Pipe and Glass Inn, recently voted the UK's pub of the year, and St Mary's Church with a spire once described as "an arrow in the breast of the Wold"), Londesborough (fine parkland) and Warter (outside of which Hockney painted his vast canvas Bigger Trees Near Warter, currently on show at Cartwright Hall Art Gallery in Bradford). There are country houses too, none better than Sledmere House, owned by Sir Tatton Sykes, whose family have been important players in the region since the middle of the 18th century. Although gutted by a fire in 1911, the Georgian house was beautifully restored and Hockney, a friend of Sykes, celebrated his 70th birthday there. Not to be outdone, the estate village of Sledmere itself is another attraction, with its immaculately kept red-brick houses and a fine pub, The Triton Inn. Moving east, I made for Bridlington and wandered down the superb promenade and the extensive length of sandy North and South Beach. The Spa, which dates from the late 1890s, dominates the seafront. Recently revamped, it is the standout feature of the town, with its Edwardian theatre and Art Deco Royal Hall (Oasis and the Rolling Stones have played there). And yet, although Hockney may live and work here, the town and the seaside have rarely troubled him as an artist - it's the quality of light and reflection from the sea that draws him to paint inland not, it seems, Bridlington itself. And to be fair parts of town are rather unlovely, notable exceptions being the 12th-century Priory Church and the antique shops and Georgian Tea Rooms in the Old Town. It's a resort that could do with a bit more love and care. Hockney has said he hoped A Bigger Picture will make people watch the spring more carefully and "so find a little more enjoyment in the world." It may also bring more people to this "hidden"part of England, one that offers a different kind of beauty - though whether that will please Hockney is another matter. East Coast trains (08457 225225; eastcoast.co.uk) have regular services to Leeds from London King's Cross and Edinburgh. First Hull Trains (08450 710222; hulltrains.co.uk) operates regularly between Hull and King's Cross. There are good links between Leeds and Saltaire and Hull and Bridlington, above. Getting around For walks, visit Walk the Wolds (walkingtheriding.co.uk). Among the suggested hikes are the nine-mile Warter Walk along a Roman road and the two-mile Sledmere Park Walk. For cyclists, visithullandeastyorkshire.com offers several routes from Beverley, Driffield and Bridlington, such as the circular 22-mile Big Skies Ride, which begins at Malton. The tourist board, Welcome to Yorkshire, in association with Hockney, is drawing up a countrywide trail linked to the artist's work (yorkshire.com/hockney), set to be ready in the spring. David Hockney: A Bigger Picture is at the Royal Academy of Arts (020 7300 8000; royalacademy.org.uk) from next Saturday until April 9 (Saturday-Thursday 10am-6pm, Friday 10am-10pm; entrance to A Bigger Picture costs £14). Don't miss Salts Mill (01274 531163; saltsmill.org.uk) for a range of permanent works by David Hockney in the 1853 Gallery (another gallery is also showing 25 Trees and Other Pictures until April 30) and some excellent shops. The striking United Reformed Church is also worth a look. Sledmere House (01377 236637; sledmerehouse.com) is set in a Capability Brown-inspired landscape, and is the home of the 8th baronet, Sir Tatton Sykes. Look out for the wonderful library, Turkish Room and reconstructed orangery, or"lemonery" as Sir Tatton calls it. The house opens on April 22. The impressively refurbished Spa in Bridlington (01262 678258; thespabridlington.com) has numerous family shows and events throughout the year. Even if you can't make one of those it's worth having a snack at the Spa Café Bar just for the view, which extends across the beach and the bay. While you're in the town Fish and Chips at 149 (fishandchipsat149.co.uk) on Marton Road is highly recommended. Life Hill Farm, Sledmere £ Offers b&b and self-catering in an 18th-century Georgian farmhouse; (01377 236224; lifehillfarm.co.uk; doubles from £40). Mint Hotel, Leeds ££ Stylish hotel with modern art displays in the regenerated Granary Wharf district. Does what it does with a minimum of fuss. The Skylounge bar on the 13th floor has great views (0113 241 1000; minthotel.com). Check availability for the Mint Hotel - rooms from £46 per night Kilham Hall, Kilham ££ Boutique country-house hotel meets b&b. Engagingly run, with an interior which cleverly blends the traditional with the contemporary. Two bedrooms and one suite, plus tennis court and swimming pool. The breakfasts are excellent and there are scones in the afternoon (01262 420466; kilhamhall.co.uk; doubles from £130). Check availability on more hotels in West Yorkshire The Triton Inn, Sledmere £ Set in a fine estate village, this pub does "nice and simple dishes" really well. Popular at Sunday lunch, served between 12.30pm and 7.30pm (01377 236078; thetritoninn.co.uk). The Wellington, Lund ££ The Welly, as it is known, combines the trick of being an excellent restaurant and a decent pub (01377 217294; thewellingtoninn.co.uk). The Pipe and Glass Inn, South Dalton £££ Recently voted the Michelin Pub of the Year. The lack of pretension in James and Kate Mackenzie's friendly pub is marked, and the menu is superb and imaginative, with dishes such as venison and juniper suet pudding. It's good value, too. The inn also has two bedrooms (01430 810246; pipeandglass.co.uk). Don't think that by being in the Wolds, taxi fares will be cheaper than what you'd pay in a city - they aren't. Parts of Bridlington. Aside from the places mentioned, it has little to offer. Winter in the Wolds (Hockney might disagree) - the area is best seen in spring, summer or autumn.