Food in focus: Maple Ave. Restaurant A dish of Moroccan-spiced chicken leg, couscous, roasted seasonal vegetables and cool saffron cream sauce is a winner at Vienna's Maple Ave Restaurant. (Marvin Joseph/The Washington Post) In Sunday's dining column, Candy Sagon fills in for Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema. Sagon visits Vienna's Maple Avenue Restaurant , an imaginative, Asian-influenced, contemporary American restaurant housed in the old Anita's space. Sagon was thrilled with the restaurant's cooking, and she praised the way each dish incorporated some element of surprise. Read the review and take a look at Marvin Joseph's photo shoot for the column: Though the tiny restaurant lacks a pastry chef, the kitchen puts out some innovative and winning sweets. Sagon was especially taken with this yuzu lime pie. It's "a diminutive tart with a citrusy Key lime pie-like filling, topped with a swirl of house-made marshmallow." Marvin Joseph/The Washington Post The beer-braised beef cheeks are the result of a complicated process: The chef "braises beef from Maine's Pineland Farms in Sri Lankan beer, which he says has a heavier, chocolaty flavor that goes well with the rich meat. Added to the beer are allspice, star anise, cinnamon and finely diced vegetables. The cheeks cook slowly, then rest for a day in the braising liquid. Of the lemongrass chicken, Sagon writes, "You've never had chicken tenders like these, served with a crunchy Brussels sprout salad and enlivened with a citrusy, gingery sauce."