A Review of Mercer Street Charcoal Grill and Deli, in Hightstown GIVEN its name, it's no surprise that the Mercer Street Charcoal Grill and Deli has chops, chicken and steaks on the menu. The surprise - and it's a happy one - is that there is a Latin flavor to many of the dishes. The restaurant, which opened in November, is the dream of its cooking co-owners, Nydza Santiago, from Puerto Rico, and her husband, Carlos Guerrero, from Ecuador by way of the Ironbound section of Newark. Mr. Guerrero quit his trucking business to work full time at the grill, finding inspiration in foods from Brazil and other Latin American countries, as well as Portugal and Spain; Ms. Santiago kept her administrative assistant job in Robbinsville, but also keeps her eye on the kitchen, she said on the phone after my visits. The restaurant, on a corner near Hightstown's center, is welcoming and friendly, with wood floors and a white-painted tin ceiling studded with fans and warm lights. Tables are uncovered; chairs afford a clear view to the kitchen at the back, where a serious expanse of stainless steel suggests serious venting (a promise in itself). The first hint of skill in the kitchen came early on, in the hot garlic bread slices that accompanied a small bowl of chorizo; the correct ratio of fat to salt and garlic transformed the otherwise unassuming bread into something special. On a second visit, the bread echoed the flavors of the shrimp in garlic sauce, an irresistible tapas-size portion of tender and succulent seafood in a broth of white wine, chopped garlic, paprika and a bit of hot sauce. A stack of chicken wings, marinated in a mixture of white wine, garlic and salt and baked before they were grilled, were just as seductive, though there were far too few of the celery and carrot sticks that accompanied them to balance the meat. The Castillo salad was pretty to see, with red peppers, mixed greens and slices of mozzarella, all drizzled with a balsamic reduction; the Caesar was slightly overdressed, but a good version of the classic. Less interesting were the empanadas, with a heavy dough-to-filling ratio in both the chicken and the beef versions; the chili, which was bland; and a house salad that lacked character. Three random complaints: Despite the ventilation system, the air seemed thick from time to time; the water and ice on one visit tasted unpleasantly of chlorine; and on another visit, we were startled by loud chopping sounds coming from the kitchen - probably the meat being prepared. Speaking of meat, the skirt steak was a real standout - chestnut outside, pink inside and easily cut. Another winner was the stack of pork ribs that arrived hot enough to burn the mouth, but so fragrant that we took the dare; a special of two plump pork chops was its equal. The half chicken, despite slightly dry white meat, edged out the beef short rib, which lacked the crucial tenderness gained from low, slow cooking. Other table favorites were two sandwiches - the pressed Cuban, with roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese and pickle, and the juicy pulled pork, all the more luscious when we heaped coleslaw on the meat. Other sides were even more satisfying than the main dishes. On one night, the fried plantains were hot and meltingly sweet. On another, they were clearly less ripe, in discrete pieces and with more starch - in effect, a different dish. The garlicky sautéed vegetables - a generous portion of cauliflower, broccoli and carrots on both visits - disappeared long before we finished the meat. The small bowl of sauced beans was comforting, as was the yellow rice. The flan, made from Ms. Santiago's mother's recipe, and the rice pudding were good, but the strong coffee was my dessert of choice. Too bad I didn't think to ask for another serving of those ripe plantains. Mercer Street Charcoal Grill and Deli 110 Mercer Street Hightstown (609) 308-2159 mercerstgrill.com THE SPACE Small and cozy dining room seating 38, with about 20 more seats outside. There is a step at the narrow front door. THE CROWD Noisy and casual, including some children. Servers are efficient and friendly. THE BAR Bring your own beer or wine. THE BILL Dinner entrees, $8 to $20. MasterCard, Visa and Discover are accepted. WHAT WE LIKED Garlic bread, Spanish sausage, shrimp in garlic sauce, chicken wings, Caesar salad, Castillo salad, grilled half-chicken, grilled skirt steak, grilled pork ribs, grilled pork chops, pulled pork sandwich, pressed Cuban sandwich, rice, beans, fried sweet plantains, sautéed vegetables with garlic, flan, rice pudding, coffee. IF YOU GO Open Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Parking on the street and in two municipal parking lots within a half-block of the restaurant. Reservations recommended on weekends for parties of six or more.