Food Stuff - Two Swiss Cheeses With Sophistication - NYTimes.com Workaday Emmenthaler and Gruyère are the blue jeans of Swiss cheeses. But Switzerland can also dress up a cheese tray with some unusual varieties. Hanfkäse, above right, is a mild but rich washed-rind cow's milk cheese with a whisper of fruitiness, textured with a scattering of crunchy hemp seeds. A pattern of the plant's distinctive leaf is stamped on the top. Moser Truffel, a satiny disk made of cow's milk, enriched with mascarpone, delivers an intense, slightly funky whiff of the black truffle with which it is infused. Hanfkäse, $35 for the whole cheese (17.6 ounces), halves for $17.50; Moser Truffel, $21.95 for a 6-ounce cheese; Ideal Cheese, 942 First Avenue (52nd Street), (212) 688-7579, (800) 382-0109, idealcheese.com.