Wine of the Week: 2008 Paitin di Pasquero Elia Barbaresco 'Serra' By S. Irene Virbila Los Angeles Times Barbaresco doesn't usually come in under $30 - and when you find a Barbaresco of this quality at this price, jump on it. One of the great bargains in Piedmont is the Paitin "Serra" from the Elia Pasquero family, which has been farming these hillside vineyards since the late 18th century. Very drinkable already, the 2008 has a lovely bouquet of cherries and earth. Complex and elegant, this Barbaresco has lots to reveal as it sits in the glass - concentrated dark berries, violets, tobacco leaves and more. Tannins are finespun. If you can, open the bottle a little beforehand. Price: About $24 to $29 Style: Complex and concentrated What it goes with: braised meats, roast duck Where to find it: Beverage Warehouse in Los Angeles (Marina del Rey), (310) 306-2822, http://www.beveragewarehouse.com; Wally's Wine & Spirits in West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606, http://www.wallywine.com; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454, http://www.winex.com