A Review of Monsoon, in Babylon Besides its pedigree, Monsoon - its full name is Monsoon Asian Kitchen and Lounge - has attention-getting good looks. The restaurant occupies a 1920s bank building, which is floodlit outside, attracting passersby. The interior is even more dramatic: a three-story, pulsating bar; a sweeping staircase to loftlike balcony dining rooms; a small chef's dining room, where the kitchen is on display behind glass; and a sedate main-floor dining room with banquette seating. There is a striking black, white and red color scheme throughout. Still, a restaurant has to have more going for it than trendy décor. And though we encountered a few dishes that should be rethought, most of the food made the grade. I'd begin a meal with a dim sum order of shrimp toast: three large triangles with crisp exteriors and juicy interiors, and a peanut-studded pad Thai sauce served on the side. We were less taken with the pork gyozas, which had overly thick wrappers. There are three types of steamed buns: pork, beef short rib and duck. We tried the beef buns (two per order), which were bolstered by a spiced tomato marinade and mango pickle; they were pleasant but less exciting than the ingredients might suggest. Three hits from a list of hot appetizers were broiled skirt steak yakitori in a Korean kalbi marinade, crispy pork belly paired with a golden mustard sauce and very tender, crispy calamari garnished with julienne rods of green apple, peanuts and a sweet chili sauce. The yakitori, four bamboo skewers of flavor-packed beef, was accompanied by a mound of fresh mint leaves. The pork belly consisted of six one-inch cubes of deliciousness: a marriage of meat and fat that was meltingly soft and crunchy at the same time. We hit a couple of snags among the entrees. Two sounded like classics but were far from standard. General Tso's chicken resembled nothing you are likely to have had before: a bowl of what looked like chicken meatballs tossed with Chinese long beans and a few hot chili peppers. They weren't meatballs but fairly moist chicken nuggets; their crust was limp, however. The second familiar-sounding dish that proved surprising was black pepper beef with broccoli. This one featured Chinese broccoli, which was fine; what was not fine was the utterly bland meat. The unannounced wide, chow fun noodles in the mix were off-putting, too. A menu offering of wild mushroom chow fun, though, was a tasty dish. We also enjoyed a plate of garlic prawns with tiny cubes of pineapple, served atop a bed of spinach. Miso glazed black cod, a personal favorite, had too much miso. A side dish to try is the Chinese eggplant, soothing cubes ignited by roasted shallots and chili. Desserts are made in house. The individual ginger cheesecake with ginger snap crust was a table favorite. We also liked the deep-fried Oreos, which had a bitter chocolate dipping sauce flavored with a hint of chili. Mango strudel was diminished by unripe fruit. The chili oil in a flourless chocolate cake was a misstep. Monsoon is very well run; servers were numerous and accommodating on our visits. In the kitchen, the executive chef, Michael Wilson, formerly of Verace and Prime, generally shows a deft hand with Asian fare. Ups and downs notwithstanding, Monsoon is an exciting new entry in Babylon. Monsoon Asian Kitchen and Lounge 48 Deer Park Avenue Babylon (631) 587-4400 monsoonny.com THE SPACE Imposing 1920s bank building transformed into a multilevel pan-Asian restaurant accommodating 200. Restrooms are wheelchair accessible, and there is a wheelchair entrance. Call ahead for details. THE CROWD Spirited, young and fun-loving. Some children. The staff is super: on the ball, friendly and efficient. THE BAR There is a long bar with about a dozen stools, as well as stand-up tables and small low tables. List of 90 wines by the bottle ($30 to $95), with most over $40, and 13 by the glass ($9 to $14). There are 8 sakes, $22 to $40 a bottle or $6 to $9 a glass, and 10 beers ($6 to $8). Specialty cocktails are also featured. THE BILL Lunch entrees, $12 to $24. Dinner entrees, $12 to $39, with most in the $20s. Portions are not large, and prices are on the high side. WHAT WE LIKED Shrimp toast, skirt steak yakitori, pork belly, crispy calamari, garlic prawns, wild mushroom chow fun, Chinese eggplant, ginger cheesecake, deep-fried Oreos. IF YOU GO Lunch: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner: Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to midnight and Sunday 4 to 10 p.m. Closed Tuesday. Reservations are recommended and are essential on weekends.