Travel: Fiji - Features - Scotsman.com ONCE occupied by cannibals, Fiji is these days home to one of the warmest welcomes on the planet I PICTURED Fiji blessed with white sandy beaches, swaying coconut palms, soft tickling sea breezes and pristine turquoise waters. A tropical paradise. I imagined walking hand-in-hand at sunset along a deserted island cove after a romantic dinner overlooking the Pacific. Then I remembered that I was heading to one of the world's top honeymoon destinations alone. Cue violins. Not one to wallow, I'd heard Fijians were welcoming hosts, great storytellers and incredibly friendly, so I hoped my solo visit wouldn't be so lonely after all. But only time would tell. En route from the airport, my driver offered a short Fijian history lesson. I was taken back 150 years, when missionaries wrote stories of gruesome behaviour from islands inhabited by cannibals. With a jolt I was back in the present day and receiving a warm greeting from islanders at the Mercure Nadi hotel. Only 15 minutes from Denarau Marina, it is the perfect base for day cruises or, in my case, a short stopover before exploring further afield among the 333 islands. After a quick refresh, I was off on a popular hen-weekend activity at Sabeto spa. It's a true hidden gem - if you don't mind something a little different for your beauty regime, that is. Along a narrow dirt road I saw an oasis of green through the orange haze of dust. Warm air, thick with sulphur, rose from bubbling mud, and steam climbed from a crystal-clear stream. Local legend tells of regenerative properties, even curing baldness, so the mud may benefit more than just your complexion. I was soon covered from head to toe and happy as a pig in muck. After washing it away in the hot springs, my skin felt truly refreshed. No time to rest, my next stop was the Beachcomber Resort, in the Mamanuca Island group. Fully equipped for water sports and with a hedonistic reputation, it is popular with a younger crowd. More budget than boutique, it has a bunkhouse and buffet dining on the beach, next to the lively bar. I stayed in a small bungalow set away from the main buildings, choosing to skip the party and enjoy a singular but pleasurable sunset from my hot tub. Next morning, after a hearty breakfast, I boarded a South Sea Cruise ship that sails around the island resorts collecting holidaymakers. More than your average ferry service, the catamaran took me over coral reefs, past beautiful lagoons and allowed a glimpse of the many incredible resorts the islands have to offer. As we passed Mondriki, where Castaway was filmed, I wondered if I would end up with my own friendly Wilson. Back on the main island, Viti Levu, as we drove along the Queen's Highway sugar cane plantations were slowly replaced by lush and wild greenery, with small farm plots carved out of the hillside. We stopped at Sigatoka Sand Dunes national park, where dunes extend for several miles, a product of millions of years of coastal erosion and known to have been an ancient tribal burial site. Sand crystals nipped my legs and face as a harsh wind blew in the late afternoon, while I searched through the flotsam and jetsam for archaeological treasures in the beautifully desolate wilderness. Later, arriving at the Outrigger on the Lagoon Resort, I was treated to a real Fijian welcome as a huge man in traditional dress roared, "Bula," to me. This translates as "Hello," but it seems to mean so much more, used at every meeting, like an island birdsong. Walking into the foyer, I was further greeted with the song of welcome, "Bula Malaya." I was smiling from cheek to cheek; it is an extraordinary feeling to receive such a greeting at every opportunity. On the Coral Coast, the resort sits among 40 acres of beautiful gardens overlooking one of the largest fringing coral reefs in the world and combines top-notch facilities with traditional influences. My balcony overlooked the Honey Moon shack, a favourite for many guests to enjoy an intimate dinner; again, I took in the sunset and the crashing waves alone. Tempting as it was to soothe myself with a treatment at the hilltop Bebe Spa or lounge by the pool, I wanted to get out and experience Fiji first hand in a local village, so took a trip up-river with Sigatoka River Safari. We flew past beautiful scenery in our jet boat, zipping over shallows just inches above the riverbed and flying around tight bends as numerous friendly locals waved avidly from the banks. The captain warned a refusal to reciprocate was an insult and could lead to punishment. How, I asked? "Haven't you heard, we're descended from cannibals," he quipped as we spun round the next bend. The greeting as we arrived at Koroua village was as warm and open as I had come to expect. In the village hall, we presented the chief with our "sevusevu," an offering of kava. A mild narcotic made from the root of a pepper plant, it looked and tasted to me a little like muddy water. But for Fijians it is an ancient symbolic drink that promotes peace and is central to their culture. As we sat and drank together from coconut cups, the locals were keen to get to know us all better and asked many questions. I wasn't prepared for how personal they would become as my marital status was queried. Maybe I would join the honeymooners in Fiji after all. After we were fed a huge traditional lunch to the point of bursting (were they trying to fatten us up?), we danced it off to the tune of village instruments. A tour introduced me to a bustling and industrious community that is intent on maintaining a traditional way of life and set of values, but which is keen to embrace modern culture. As I left, I was assured that I was now a village member and welcome forever, a gesture that felt truly genuine. My next stop on Viti Levu was the Pearl South Pacific Resort, a boutique hotel flanked by crystal waters on one side and tropical greenery on the other. It's a great place to relax by the pool and a paradise for scuba divers. Dinner was eclipsed by the entertainment, a fire-dance known as meke, which uses dance and song to relate stories of traditional life and ancient battles. A great performance soon turned into something of an international dance-off as the whole room was requested to join in a Fijian take on the conga. My last destination was the tranquil paradise Wananavu, meaning "perfect" in Fijian. Situated on an isolated point, 34 deluxe lodges sit among tropical gardens with spectacular sea views. Mine was decorated with freshly cut flowers and had a welcome lack of electronic gadgetry. I had little time to soak up the quiet as I was booked in to the spa for a massage, which promised to soothe the soul and rejuvenate the body. It certainly worked. There were also activities available for the more energetic, such as hermit-crab racing or Frisbee golf. I enjoyed a snorkel trip to the Nananui islands, while my favourite excursion was a hike from a local village up to a heart-shaped pool and a slide down smooth rock into freezing water. Perfect for any romantic. Sitting in Nadi airport's departure lounge, I listened to "Isa Lei," the farewell song. I couldn't help but think that while Fiji is truly beautiful, full of great activities and blessed with fine weather, it would be the people I would most fondly remember. I had found the soul of the country. They are the nicest set of cannibals I've ever had dinner with. Tourism Fiji www.fijime.com Tourist Transport Fiji www.touristtransport fiji.com South Sea Cruises www.ssc.com.fj Outrigger on the Lagoon viti-levu/outrigger- on-the-lagoon-fiji The Pearl South Pacific www.thepearlsouth pacific.com Wananavu Sigatoka River Safari