Wroclaw, Poland: a cultural city guide On the south bank of the Oder, the university's elaborately decorated Baroque lecture hall, the 18th-century Aula Leopoldina, is a marvellous sight. My neck sore from craning to admire the trompe-l'oeil frescoes, I climb the university's tower for a different view, taking in the Oder and its islands from above. The atmosphere across the river on Ostrów Tumski - "Cathedral Island" - is calmer. Home to the city's imposing cathedral, as well as a handful of other religious buildings, this is a place of peace and contemplation. As dusk falls over the city, a lamplighter appears and goes about his work unhurried. This is my cue to leave. I am due at the Opera Wroclawska, a grand classicist auditorium whose commitment to new and rarely performed work makes for a younger than usual audience. Tonight's performance is King Roger, one of the few Polish language operas regularly staged on the international circuit. Each summer the company stages a "super-production," the largest operatic performance in Poland, featuring hundreds of performers, European star names and, frequently, animals. This year's production, to be staged at Wroclaw's Olympic Stadium, is Verdi's Un Ballo in Maschera. The performance finished, I head to the Rynek, Wroclaw's ancient market square, overlooked by the resplendent 14th-century City Hall, the heart of the old town and a picturesque and lively place for an evening drink. Engaging positively with the past while investing in the future can be a difficult balancing act for a city, especially one with such a turbulent recent history. Fortunately, Wroclaw does it with panache. Poland "gained" Breslau (Wrocklaw) and Danzig (Gdansk) in 1945, "losing" Lwow and Vilnius Wizzair (0906 959 0002; wizzair.com) offers flights to Wroclaw from Luton and Doncaster from £12.99 one way. Ryanair (0871 246 0000; ryanair.com) has flights to Wroclaw from various UK airports from £17 one way. From Wroclaw airport, city bus number 406 runs every 20 minutes to the central railway station. Regent Holidays (0117 921 1711; regent-holidays.co.uk) offers a three-night package to Wroclaw from £325 per person, including b & b and return flight. There's a rowdy, tavern atmosphere in the wood-panelled bar at Spiz (Rynek-Ratusz 2; 0048 71 344 7225; spiz.pl), a microbrewery and restaurant beneath the City Hall. Climb the bell tower of St Elisabeth's Church for fantastic views over the Market Square and old town. For fresh produce, cured meats, traditional sweets and cheap household goods, the Hala Targowa (Piaskowa 17) is a shopper's paradise within a brutalist concrete shell. Opera Wroclawska (ul. Swidnicka 35; 344 5779; opera.wroclaw.pl) presents both classical and contemporary opera. Verdi's Un Ballo in Maschera, this year's open-air "super-production," takes place at the Olympic Stadium on June 15 and 17 (Aleja Ignacego Jana Paderewskiego 35; tickets via Opera Wroclawska). Free Wi-Fi is available in bars and cafés all over the city. Art Hotel £ Has a fantastic location just off the Market Square in a restored tenement building; 80 four-star rooms, each individually decorated; elegant restaurant (0048 71 787 7400; arthotel.pl; from £37). Puro Hotel ££ Located in the up-and-coming Jewish quarter, with plenty of great bars nearby; rooms are sleek and super modern; save time on arrival with self check-in; funky bar and restaurant (772 5100; purohotel.pl; from £52). Sofitel £££ Contemporary design in the heart of the old town; five-star rooms, some offering views of St Elisabeth's Church; spa and gym (358 8300; accorhotels.com/pl/hotel-5345-sofitel-wroclaw-old-town/location.shtml; from £60). Kuchnia Marché £ This bright buffet restaurant offers a wide range of Polish and international options; it offers excellent value and is open all day for meals and snacks (ul. Swidnicka 53; 343 9565; marche.com.pl). Karczma Lwowska ££ Decorated like an old rural dining room, complete with bunches of hops hanging from the ceiling, this eccentric place specialises in traditional Polish and Lvov cuisine; enormous portions call for large appetites; good views over the Market Square; delicious dumplings (Rynek 4; 343 9887; lwowska.com.pl). Spizarnia £££ Modern European cuisine with some dishes from farther afield thrown in; range of classic cocktails available, including coffees with a tipple; a good place to start an evening before exploring the other bars on this trendy street (ul. Wlodkowica 27; 341 4166; spizarnia.wroclaw.pl).