SHOUTING echoes through the dungeon-like rows of cells as Sergeant George Hosac and your correspondent walk through the Men's Central Jail in downtown Los Angeles. Most inmates are in their underwear, many tattooed. Some stare, others sneer. The "southsiders," as Hispanics are known inside jail, are largely separated from the blacks and whites, though not officially so, since that would be illegal. Mr Hosac banters with a few inmates, but warns under his breath that "some save a cup of faeces and throw it." The building is the most notorious part of the Los Angeles County jail system, the largest in America. After a series of inmate-on-inmate killings, a special counsel called it "nightmarish." The American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU) has two lawsuits pending against it, one for overcrowding, the other alleging deputy-on-inmate violence. And the FBI is investigating allegations that guards not only abused inmates but formed their own gangs. Lee Baca, the sheriff, is fighting to reassert control and has said he might even close the jail down. It certainly does not appear ready to receive new inmates as part of "realignment" (see article). Even a supervised visit reveals disturbing visions of the human condition. Cell 7021 is reserved for "über-celebrities" for their own protection, says Mr Hosac (O.J. Simpson, for example, spent time there). The row for "288 inmates" houses child molesters, who must be kept apart from other inmates lest they are killed. Single cells are for "green-lighters" who "have a hit on them," perhaps for snitching. Blocks 5100 to 5400 are dormitories for gays and transsexuals. Secret things go on in the bunk beds, with inmates building little tents out of towels. A big red sign says "It's a felony to engage in any sexual activity." Below it is a box for used condoms. "I'll be the first to admit it's antiquated," says Mr Hosac about the jail, which was built in the 1960s. There are no windows, and inmates get natural light only once a week, for three hours up on the roof. But the main problem is the linear design. Modern jails are built along circular corridors so that guards, in their station in the middle, can see inside all cells. This jail only has straight, gloomy rows. Guards can see down the alleys but not easily into the cells. And that is where most violence occurs.