Salamanca, Spain: a cultural city guide For the finest example of plateresque (from the Spanish word for silver) head to the Old University, whose intricately carved façade includes a hard-to-spot frog sitting on a skull. You have to find it - especially if you need a spouse. Inside is one of the oldest libraries in the world; the preserved classroom of Fray Luis de Léon, who famously began a lecture with the words "as I was saying yesterday..." though he had in fact been absent for years, imprisoned by the Inquisition; and a beautiful vista from the first floor that takes in the cloister, 200-year-old sequoia, bell tower and cascades of sculpted stone in the spires and dome of the cathedral beyond. For another unmissable view, encompassing five centuries of architecture, circle the cathedral walls until you find little Patio Chico, the only point where you can see Salamanca's two great cathedrals, Vieja and Nueva, juxtaposed side by side. Then enter Museo Ieronimus to climb among their medieval towers and parapets and peer down into both naves. Also required viewing is the exquisite House of Shells, combining elements of Gothic, Renaissance and Mudéjar. These are the set pieces of Salamanca, but there are many more delights: courtyards and cloisters, painted ceilings, altarpieces, even an astronaut carved on a cathedral door. Air Europa (0901 226 0059; aireuropa.com) flies to Madrid from Gatwick, from £40 one way. Car hire, such as Europcar (0871 384 1087; europcar.co.uk), is available at Madrid airport. Buses to Salamanca take two and a half hours from the bus park (avanzabus.com); you can buy tickets at the Viajes el Corte Inglés travel agency in Terminal 1. The main tourist office is in Plaza Mayor. The excellent Salamanca Card is a smart-chip card for all sights costing €16/£13 for 24 or €24/£20 for 48 hours. UK information: Spanish Tourist Office (020 7486 8077; spain.info). The region is famous for its Jamón Ibérico de Bellota from acorn-fed pigs. Delicatessens such as J Sanz (Calle San Pablo 2; jamonesjsans.es) sell it ready-sliced, or ship whole hams; the larger you buy, the less it costs per pound. Other highlights include the serene cloister and decidedly ghoulish capitals of Convento Santa Maria de Dueñas, the beautiful courtyard of Palacio de la Salina (Calle San Pablo 24); the hidden Mudéjar ceiling in Convento de las Claras (Calle de Santa Clara 2); the astronomical ceiling, El Cielo de Salamanca in the old university complex; and a lovely Byzantine Madonna in the Iglesia de la Purísima. Room Mate Vega £ Part of a contemporary, affordable and good value chain, very central, with parking (0923 272250; room-matehotels.com; doubles from €172/£147). Hotel Rector ££ With views across to the cathedral, a peaceful, stylish, homely and very welcoming 13-room hotel with charming staff - a lovely place (218482; hotelrector.com; doubles from €164/£141). Don Gregorio £££ Luxury on a small scale - 17 bedrooms and intimate pool/spa which can be booked exclusively - set in a former Bishop's palace opposite San Esteban (217015; hoteldongregorio.com; doubles from €180/£154). Tablanca ££ Fresh, all white new address for meals and tapas with kitchen to view; inspired flavours and ideas from chef Carlos Barco (Plaza del Peso 9; 268554). El Meson de Gonzalo ££ Come here for traditional suckling lamb or pig. Gonzalo has been run by the same family for three generations, since 1947; formerly a bullfighters" hang out, it now has a cosy, modern/rustic look (Poeta Iglesias 10; 217222). Victor Gutiérrez £££ Michelin starred, and good value for inventive takes on Spanish dishes (Calle San Pablo 66; 262973). Salamanca was the setting for the 2008 political thriller Vantage Point. If you prefer not to stand when eating tapas, don't arrive at your restaurant too late (i.e., get there before 10pm). Take a good menu decoder with you. Don't leave your cultural exploration until Sunday as several sights are closed then. Check opening hours and plan your time accordingly. Avoid visiting Plaza Mayor during exhibitions as it gets impossibly crowded. Visit the tourist board website for advance information (aboutsalamanca.com).