Summer in the Alps - Telegraph Predictably, I suppose, it soon became clear that this was impossible. However many friends with big birthdays we could rustle up, this was going to require nothing short of a major lottery win. The sort of places we're talking about can go for around £50,000 a week in the most expensive slot of the year, the February half-term week. We were out of our league. Time to take a step back and think again about an agreeable weekend in a gastropub in the Cotswolds. But then came inspiration. What about summer? I investigated cost and was - to put it mildly - surprised. Prices (and not just for luxury chalets) can be as much as two thirds lower in summer than in winter. And so that is how we ended up at Hidden Dragon, the beautiful wooden chalet with hints of Eastern mysticism at Veysonnaz in Switzerland's Valais region, wondering why it was that we hadn't thought of it before, and why we Britons always seem to gravitate to the sea (whether a wet cottage in Wales or a villa by the steaming Med) for our summer holidays. The landlocked Swiss don't see the need, and after our week of summer mountain luxury, I can see why. 35 per cent of Swiss vineyards are in the Valais, making it the country's largest wine producer First there are the views. If anything, the contrast between the many greens of the valleys and the glistening white peaks of towering mountains is even more spectacular in summer than winter. Add the blues, whites, yellows and pinks of June's wild-flower show and it's like allowing your thirsty eyes a drink. Next, if it's sunbathing you're after, Valaisians will tell you that in their valley they have as much sunshine as the Mediterranean (protected, they say, from clouds and rainfall by their walls of mountains).The temperatures are, however, milder and more comfortable (try doing anything after midday in, say, a Maltese July). This applies to both night and day. It's too high for mosquitoes, and the only things that will disturb your peace are daytime bees and butterflies. You can have a brisk bathe in a mountain lake, far more refreshing than a soupy, crowded salty sea; and if you take in a mouthful of water it's probably something that's being bottled and sold, rather than a cocktail of boat waste that's likely to prompt a visit to the local doctor and a stomach pump. Then there's the accommodation. I had often wondered what happened to ski chalets in the summer. The answer appears to be that many of them simply shut. The ski companies that rent them for exorbitant prices in the winter go into reverse hibernations, while their instructor and chalet staff go off to crew on yachts or teach kitesurfing. All of which means that there are some gems out there for those willing to forego their seaside summer trips. And Hidden Dragon (above and below) was undoubtedly a gem. In the winter, connecting via a series of lifts to Verbier and its glitzy attractions and offering superb accommodation, it rents out at the sort of spectacular prices that make one think of Russian oil barons. But in summer its prices drop and it becomes a luxurious, warm-weather palace, its sumptuous on-site spa, basement cinema and outdoor hot tub all running to a more relaxed rhythm. Designed and built from scratch by Ashlee Benis, whose Japanese ancestry persuaded her that she could somehow mix Eastern decorative styles with traditional Swiss building methods, it is a wonderfully exotic haven of cosy nooks, low sofas under the eaves for reading and snoozing, and fabulous living and dining areas, inside and out. The bedrooms and en-suite bathrooms are beautifully styled, and come with names redolent of oriental mysticism (white tiger, black turtle and red phoenix). Tibetan art, Kenyan sculptures and bamboo ornaments jostle with antique Vuitton trunks (now stylish coffee tables). There are natural and organic materials everywhere: wooden floors and walls, slate and stone, and all kinds of cord, rope, twine and various hides (including eel skin). The staff are just as discreet, polite and attentive (without being intrusive) as they are in the winter, and just as happy to deposit and collect guests for spectacular daily hikes, mountain-bike trips, fishing and golf as they are to leave them alone to catch up on a bit of reading on a sunbed. The cooking is first class, the views incredible, the spa luxurious, and for a special occasion you could hardly find anywhere better. What was our conclusion from our summer trip to the mountains of Valais? Well, it's true that even in summer (and even at a third of what they cost in ski season) you can still expect to pay top dollar for high-end luxury. But there are plenty of options out there, and all are much cheaper in summer than in winter. So strap on your hiking boots, climb onto a bike or a golf buggy, enjoy the spectacular views and wild flowers, save a packet on the accommodation and ask yourself this simple question: who needs snow? British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) flies to Geneva from Heathrow from £156 return in mid-June. Other airlines flying from the UK include Swiss (0845 601 0956; swiss.com) from Heathrow and London City; easyJet (0905 821 0905; easyjet.com) from all the UK's major airports, and Flybe (0871 700 2000; flybe.com) from Southampton and Exeter. In winter only, Snowjet (0845 0704458; snowjet.co.uk) flies from Stansted to Sion, allowing for transfers to Hidden Dragon in a matter of minutes. Most chalets in the Valais will organise transfers to and from Geneva airport, but if you want to go it alone, the best way to the heart of the region is on the train. The train station is a short walk from the arrivals hall at Geneva airport and - of course - the Swiss trains run to the second. Tickets for local Swiss rail travel can be purchased in advance from sbb.ch. When to visit July and August are best for weather, but late May and June have wonderful wild flowers that shouldn't be missed. Just remember that for high-level hiking in June you will still find snow on the ground and strong, waterproof boots are essential, preferably with gaiters and crampons. If you're hiking on a glacier, you will need snow shoes even in Summer. The mountains are packed with activities for the summer: rafting, golf, fishing, mountain biking and, of course, hiking. Your chalet will have contacts for companies that can organise activities for you. Particularly recommended is the heli-hiking and glacier-skiing offered in summer by swisskisafari (0041 79 239 4152; swisskisafari.com), whose legendary pilots can deposit walkers in places you would not believe possible. For a one-stop shop for all summer mountain activities, try the company run by the champion snowboarder Alex Coudray (0041 78 639 8803; openmountain.ch). Its steep valley slopes are covered in vines, so it's no surprise that the Valais has some decent wine. Indeed, wine has been made here since the Romans planted the first vines in the first century BC. New to most visitors, though, are the lesser-known grape varieties and tastes of the region's excellent produce. Chasselas, sylvaner and petite arvine are used here, as well as better-known chardonnay, pinot gris and marsanne. An excellent selection of local wines can be sampled at L'Oenotheque at Château de Villa in Sierre (27 456 2429; chateaudevilla.ch). Summer chalets Chalet Renée £ Sleeps eight. A self-catered chalet in Crans-Montana, £3,251 per week (low-season summer), to £5,843 (mid-season summer), compared with £15,308 per week in high-season winter (ski in, ski out). The chalet is 30 minutes from Sion, a two-hour drive from Geneva and close to a golf course that hosts the Swiss PGA. Available through the Oxford Ski Company (01993 899420; oxfordski.com). Haus Ulysse ££ A chalet-style duplex apartment in Zermatt in south-eastern Valais (about three hours by train from Geneva), available throughout the summer for £4,900 a week (self-catering). It sleeps 12 (there are four bathrooms), and has views of the Matterhorn. Contact the Oxford Ski Company (as above) Hidden Dragon £££ Fabulous top-end chalet, fully staffed with an on-site spa, wonderful views and an aura of Eastern mysticism somehow blending harmoniously with the traditional Swiss exterior. This is a special place for a special occasion. Sleeps 12 but can accommodate more (up to 18 if necessary). Low-season summer from £21,000 per week (full board and house wine included), compared with a staggering £62,000 per week during the winter high season (Veysonnaz, Les 4 Vallées; 0041 27 207 1518; 0845 505 0251 in the UK; hidden-dragon.com). Château de Villa ££ Visitors should not leave the Valais without eating melted cheese at least once, even in summer. The best cheese fondue in the area is to be had at Le Temple de la Raclette at Château de Villa. For those not seduced by the five-cheese raclette fondue (a culinary journey through the region's cheeses from west to east), try the rabbit kidneys and rose hip crème brûlée, washed down with a variety of 25 different eaux de vie (rue Sainte-Catherine 4, Sierre; 0041 27 455 1896; chateaudevilla.ch). Mont-Rouge, Nendaz ££ Seasonal food cooked and presented with flair in a village not far from Hidden Dragon (79 634 4962; mont-rouge.ch). Le Crans, Crans-Montana £££ Fine dining and the bonus of an amazing panoramic terrace overlooking the Rhône Valley (27 486 6060;lecrans.com).