Switzerland: An exhilarating walk in the Swiss Alps The last stage of the pre-walk access is via the Schynige Platte Bahn, an ascent of just under 5,000ft (1,500m) on a rack railway dating from 1893. The little carriages have upright wooden seats - some even have open sides and striped ruched curtains - and with mountain air flooding your lungs it's like riding into a chapter of Thomas Mann. Or Heidi, according to temperament. At the top station, for non-walkers there is an Alpine garden showcasing the same plants that carpet the hillsides but with added labels. There are coffee and cake shops, souvenir outlets (penknives and miniature cowbells. Never underestimate the Swiss love of kitsch) and even a shop offering trials of the latest boots, in case the walking bug belatedly bites. Following the yellow signposts and the red-and-white markers that clearly mark all Swiss walking routes, we quickly left all this behind, checking our watches as we did so. There's a good reason to keep an eye on the time. The last gondola down from First can be as early as 5pm outside the high season. The walk is advertised as taking six hours on average (which is actually going quite fast), so allowing an hour for lunch, photographs and some loo-related banter with the hut guardian, a 10am start is the latest feasible. Every step of the way was a pleasure. There is some significant up and down, not too much, just enough to make you feel that you are earning the drinks and dinner that will surely be your reward. There are some exposed sections, but they will only really trouble advanced acrophobia sufferers. The route is quite remote, and high, but there are usually other walkers in sight, and there is mobile phone coverage. The cows really do wear bells, and their melodious ringing is the day's background note, along with the whistles of marmots. There is always a new vista to admire, from the steamers down on the lake drawing a tiny white scrawl behind them, and the Faulhorn, the walk's highest point, changing shape as it gets nearer, to the tiny Sägistalsee, another miniature lake set like a sapphire in a ring of green alps, or simply the ever-changing procession of clouds. The Faulhorn itself makes a useful punctuation mark, two-thirds of the way along the route. It's a rocky shoulder rising to 8,793ft (2,680m) and topped with a tiny hotel, complete with lace curtains and a terrace with parasols, surely one of the most romantic hideaways imaginable. The path skirts the outcrop and so the last 100 yards or so of ascent to the summit and hotel are not mandatory, and incidentally much the easier route up to it is hidden on the other side, but purists will want to make the traverse as well as bag the summit. The views from the very top are sensational, and if you have time in hand stop for a cup of tea and a slice of apfelkuchen as well. After the Faulhorn, it's more or less all over. Wider, easier paths wind gently downwards towards First and we began to meet walkers coming the other way. They had ridden up the gondola from the valley and were making the Berghotel and the view their destination for the afternoon before turning back again - they wouldn't get all the way to Schynige Platte before the last train, that was for sure. A small flicker of hiker's superiority was permissible, we decided. The rotunda that houses the lift's top station soon came into view. There's a half-hour ride in the little capsule back down to Grindelwald and then the train on down towards Interlaken. The views from the lift of the Eiger and the Wetterhorn are a final bonus, and you can also glimpse another mountain refuge, the Gleckstein Hut, looking impossibly precarious on the ledge above the Grindelwaldgletscher. The walk up to that is a fine undertaking for another day. Incidentally, at the First station there are some excellent loos, free to use with no bother from anyone. Essentials Getting There Airlines flying to Zürich from UK airports include British Airways (0844 448 1731, BA.com), Swiss (swiss.com) and easyJet (easyjet.com). Trains from Zürich airport run regularly to Interlaken, Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen via Berne. See the excellent website sbb.ch for timetables and online ticket purchase. Walking There is a network of excellent and well-maintained walking routes throughout the Swiss Alps, at levels ranging from easy short strolls to long and more challenging days or big multi-day undertakings. Way-marking is generally so good that advanced navigational skills using compass or GPS are not strictly necessary, but it is always advisable to carry a map and to know where you are on the mountain. The excellent Jungfrau Region Wanderkarte is 1:25 000 scale and has hikes marked in red. It is widely available in Switzerland, or from Stanfords (020 7836 1321; stanfords.co.uk). Local Swiss tourist offices also have an adequate free map of the area, Wengen/Mürren Wanderkarte 1:40 000, which lists 46 walks with a brief description and rough time to complete, in three languages. Equipment The only real essential is a well-fitting pair of walking boots with good ankle support. Otherwise wear loose, comfortable clothing using the layering system. A small rucksack is also helpful, containing a bottle of water, waterproofs, because the weather can change very quickly, a warm hat and gloves. Add a whistle, a small first-aid kit containing blister plasters, simple painkillers and antiseptic cream, a couple of energy bars, sunglasses, sunhat and sun cream, and perhaps a head torch. I also carry a lightweight foil emergency blanket, just in case. Some people like to use sprung trekking poles, especially on long steep descents. Know the Swiss emergency numbers, and the number and address of the place where you are staying. And keep your mobile phone charged. I know from personal experience that the Swiss helicopter rescue service is wonderful, but they need to know who you are and where you are before they can help. Inform the hotel of your proposed route. The Inside track Many of the routes are reached via cable cars, mountain railways or gondolas. These are fun to use, especially for children, and they give easy access to places most people could never reach otherwise, but they are not particularly cheap. If your stay is for more than a couple of days, consider a Half-Fare card, for which you pay a flat fee depending on length of validity, and which then enables you to buy train, mountain transport and post-bus tickets at half price. This can represent a good saving, particularly if you intend to visit plum sites like Jungfraujoch "the highest station in Europe" or Schilthorn, site of the James Bond revolving restaurant. Mountain restaurants can be divine, or they can be crowded and hellish, as at the top of Jungfraujoch. None of them is a cheap option, just because of where they are and how far everything has to be carried. Buying a simple picnic in the resort and finding a secluded spot is often the most memorable part of the day. Take a wild flower book. The variety of flowers is breathtaking, and being able to identify the different blooms is a real bonus. There are plenty of diversions apart from hiking. Mountain bikes can be rented in many places, and taken up the mountain hitched to a chairlift. Tandem parapenting offers a real thrill. White-water rafting is another possibility, and so is via ferrata climbing. For contacts, check the tourist information sites for the individual resorts. Mürren Hotel Jungfrau ££ A traditional timber-built three-star in the village centre with what's reputed to be the sunniest terrace in the village (0041 33 856 6464; hoteljungfrau.ch/en; from £50 per night). Hotel Alpenruh ££ Right next to the cable-car station with restaurant and sun terrace. The simple, modern rooms all have shower and lavatory (856 8800; alpenruh-muerren.ch; doubles from £112). Hotel Eiger £££ Opposite the train station, the four-star Eiger offers uninterrupted mountain views, a pool and a spa. All but the standard rooms have balconies (856 5454; hoteleiger.com; doubles from £180). Wengen Hotel Falken ££ Built in 1895 and a Wengen institution. The 44 rooms, most with balconies, are all decorated in traditional Alpine style, as is the restaurant (856 5121; hotelfalken.com; doubles from £95). Hotel Silberhorn Blander than the Falken but reliable and ideally placed. Also offers single and family rooms (856 2210; silberhorn.com; doubles from £105). Stager Stubli, Mürren ££ This central spot in Mürren does great steaks and an excellent pork schnitzel. A friendly establishment often frequented by locals, it has a cosy back room and a fantastic view from the terrace (no reservations). Sina's Place, Wengen ££ Sina's Place, or Da Sina, is blessed with a view of the magnificent Jungfrau. It has a long menu that includes pizzas and grills, and is a great place for families. There is occasional live music (855 3172). What to avoid It's best to avoid visiting the most popular and spectacular mountain sights at peak times, namely midafternoon, when they can be swamped by tour groups. There are sometimes cheaper ticket deals in the early mornings and late afternoon, and the light is prettier. Souvenir shopping in Interlaken and Grindelwald should also be avoided. There are enough giant pottery cows and carved wooden cowherds in the world - don't encourage any more. Look for Alpine cheese, sausage and packets of alpine seeds instead.