A Review of the Tap Room at Crabtree's Kittle House, in Chappaqua ON a recent frosty night, I was in the mood for soup, a four-letter word that in no way does justice to the root-vegetable velouté that cascaded from a silver pitcher into my waiting soup plate in the Tap Room at Crabtree's Kittle House in Chappaqua. The velvety purée, laced with pumpkin oil and chive labneh, and decorated with a tuft of greenery, was the sort of dish that can set the course of an evening: not only was the service swell, and the mood convivial, but the kitchen knew exactly what it was doing. With its copper-clad ceilings, rough stone and hand-sawn timbers, its dark corners brightened by tiny pumpkins and white linens, the Tap Room reminds me of a Scottish pub I once loved. The pretty round face of an antique clock presides like a full moon. The food is just delicious, and rustic in the way Marie Antoinette was when she dressed up as a shepherdess. There's craft beer on tap, and a hot dog on the menu (O.K., an $12 Wagyu beef hot dog), but you can also turn to a sumptuous terrine of foie gras anointed with madeira gelée and strewed with impossibly small flowers, to be spread on truffled brioche. There's a spot-on Caesar salad for those who must have one, but you can opt for the earthy, unearthly Kittle House chopped salad, molded like a little fez, bound with Champagne dressing, and bearing a lode of good things to eat: little lettuces, crisp jicama, Fuji apple, tomato, cucumber, red pepper, aged New York Cheddar, black-eyed peas and wisps of red radish. The amuse bouche was a tidy parfait of Hudson Valley apple cider granita, miso foam and green tea dust. Such high-toned fare comes at the hands of Marc Lippman, the chef, who gained attention at Ocean Drive, in Norwalk, Conn., and before that at Las Ventanas al Paraiso, in Los Cabos, Mexico. Once staid and a little fussy, the historic Crabtree's Kittle House - owned by the Crabtree family since 1981 - is lately more at ease with itself. During a recent renovation, it was out with the chintz and in with the earth tones. And while the main dining room still attracts "special occasion" diners, the Tap Room invites a certain spontaneity: on a Wednesday, we dined without having made a reservation (reservations go fast on weekends, when there's often a full house). Weeknight or weekend, you'll eat well. To start, the artisanal salumi plate held spicy La Quercia prosciutto, sweet fennel salami and robust barolo saucisson sec, plus grainy mustard and a bracing grape mostarda (but not, alas, the promised cured duck sausage). Rock shrimp tempura dipped in chipotle aioli was great snack food, although it was more damp than crispy. Among main dishes, the luscious lobster roll was my favorite; it came with exquisitely thin, freshly made potato chips and a brisk "firecracker" coleslaw. We also liked classic eggplant parmigiana; Loch Duart salmon, crisped to perfection and set on silky cauliflower purée; and a neatly sliced hanger steak steeped in a fruity red wine sauce. One dish was too "down home" for my taste: super-smoky barbecued chicken with a dull sweet potato purée and bitter collard greens. Worthy desserts include a pretty lavender vacherin with meringue caterpillars and blackberry coulis, flawless crème brûlée and warm pecan pie with whipped cream (which has been on the menu forever, for good reason). Sugary variations on the "Kittle" theme include a "Kittle Krack" macadamia-nut pie and a "Kittle Kat" chocolate-mousse bar - both very rich indeed. There is also the Kittle House cat, who as a throng of guests departed on a Friday night dropped a dead mouse on the front stoop. The ensuing shrieks and general merriment, combined with swarming parking valets and diesel fumes from an idling charter bus, made me nostalgic for that measured midweek dinner, after which we'd stepped out into the cold - alone - and paused to smell the late red roses blooming under the stars. The Tap Room at Crabtree's Kittle House 11 Kittle Road Chappaqua (914) 666-8044 kittlehouse.com THE SPACE A relaxed alternative to the more formal restaurant at the stately Kittle House. The dusky main room has an antique English wood bar; the porchlike annex is a bit brighter. The staff gamely provides flashlights for those struggling to see the menu. Outdoor dining among lawns and hedges in warm seasons. Wheelchair access at front door. THE CROWD Mostly adult. Dressy casual. Impeccable service. Live piano on weekends. Craft beers on tap (look for the Liquid Gold or Pumpkin Ale from Captain Lawrence Brewing Company). The wine list runs deep, offering good value on hard-to-find wines. Shorter list for beginners, and strong selection of wines by the glass. THE BILL Starters, $10 to $25 (for foie gras), main courses, $12 to $24, desserts, $9 to $12. WHAT WE LIKED Root-vegetable velouté, chopped salad, foie gras terrine, artisanal salumi, lobster roll, cheeseburger and French fries, eggplant parmigiana, salmon with cauliflower purée, hanger steak with red wine sauce, lavender vacherin, vanilla crème brûlée, pecan pie. IF YOU GO Tap Room menu available Sunday, 3 to 9 p.m.; Monday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. Reservation recommended. Valet parking on weekends. RATINGS Don't Miss, Worth It, O.K. Don't Bother.