Stevie Parle's recipes for autumn Rain and, as I write, yet more rain, whipped up into a fury by gale-force wind. Yup, autumn has arrived. Which is not to say that summer felt even remotely warm or, well, summery; but now the Atlantic westerlies have come, and everything feels different. Certainly the food does. I've started thinking about deep-flavoured, warming soups, hearty roasts and proper puddings. I appreciate that not everyone cooks seasonally all the time. The truth is that too many of us shop in supermarkets and pay little or no attention to what ingredients are in season. Yet everyone loves tomatoes that are fresh, sweet and juicy in summer, and I still get excited to see the first squash in the autumn. The great thing about the moment that summer turns into autumn is that there's still plenty of the summer harvest left: the last of the tomatoes, peppers and basil, which combine beautifully with the first of the celeriac, the fresh walnuts, apples, pears and squash. These recipes highlight how good it is to be cooking right now. The acidity of fresh tomatoes counters the sometimes cloying sweetness of squash, helped along by the heady, pretty taste of the cinnamon and a little fried sage, which brings a welcome, earthy freshness to the plate. A perfect early autumn soup. My slow-roast lamb shoulder is a traditional dinner with a difference. Roasting all these wonderful vegetables beneath the herby, fatty lamb really brings them into focus, and the fresh yogurt cuts through the fat, making it perfect for a warm day or a cool night. Cobbler is one of my favourite autumn puddings, for some reason I tend to cobble in the autumn and crumble in the winter - it just feels right. This recipe is a brilliant way to use the last of the peaches and the first of the apples, brought together by the sharp purpleishness of fresh blackberries and the round lovely comforting taste of baked pears.