Lanzarote: Big fun on a small island We arrived at Finca de Arrieta, a self-catering development of yurts and converted farm buildings, all powered by wind and solar. As a place to stay, it was organic honey next to Princesa Yaiza's refined sugar. Chickens provided breakfast eggs, a trampoline had been sunk into the ground and the charming swimming pool had been fashioned out of old cattle watering trenches. Paella and sangria were served on the first night by the friendly British owners Michelle and Tila, and it was something of a relief not to be overwhelmed by the choice of the hotel buffet. The children found cats to play with and were immediately at home. With limited time in the north, we asked for Michelle's top recommendation and she suggested Jameos del Agua, a breathtaking network of caves, near the coast at Orzola. Deep pools crawled with rare white crabs, illuminated by shafts of light. The natural wonder had been sensitively restored to include a restaurant, a 600-seat theatre and outdoor pool, all in the signature white-and-black style of Lanzarote's famous artist, César Manrique. Add a few sharks to the pool and it would have made a terrific Bond villain's lair. The Jameos del Agua The beaches in the north proved a revelation. Fine white sand has blown in from the Sahara around Orzola, where coves provide safe swimming and rock pools. Standing thigh-deep in warm sea, we lured fish with the remains of our lunchtime bocadillos. Only a few families had discovered this quiet corner of the island and the noise on the beach barely reached a murmur. We ended our break in the centre of the island at Tiagua 81, a stylish villa with pool within easy reach of the volcano park at Timanfaya and the surfing hotspot of Caleta de Famara on the west coast. It felt like having our own home on the island. The Canarian restaurant across the road, El Tenique, became our "local," where the waiters made a fuss of the boys and the convivial owner, Orlando, plied us with gambas al ajillo, roasted goat cheese and delicious blackberry liqueur to finish. The final highlight of the holiday was not, as we expected it to be, the volcano park. There were queues to get in and the ennui of the staff performing their handful of tricks (pour water into hole, jet of steam whooshes up; set fire to twigs from hot rocks) seemed to rub off on the children. Nor was it the (not so) emerald green pool at El Golfo. Instead it was the spectacular beach at Caleta de Famara. Fathers coaxed tiny daughters onto boogie boards, older families headed en masse into the waves or played football beneath the dramatic cliffs. As our two hopped excitedly in the surf for hours in the warm sunshine, I could see us returning frequently as they grow up. Lanzarote essentials Easyjet (0843 104 5000; easyjet.com) flies from Gatwick to Arrecife from £67.49 one way. Sovereign (0844 415 1936; sovereign.com) is currently offering one free child place, €100 resort credit and £150 sale event discount at Princesa the Yaiza Suite Hotel Resort. Seven nights" b & b for a family of four, departing from Gatwick on August 25 2013, for example, costs from £3,215, including private transfers. Princesa Yaiza Suite Hotel Resort, Yaiza A family-friendly hotel offering spacious rooms, an array of restaurants and lovely sea views (0034 928 519300; princesayaiza.com; from £140 per night). Finca de Arrieta, Arrieta A development of self-catering yurts and converted farm buildings run on eco-friendly principles and a stone's throw from the beach. Shared pool and relaxation area (lanzaroteretreats.com; from £477 per week). Tiagua 81, Tiagua Four self-catering studio apartments in a converted 200-year-old house and one detached cottage sleeping up to four; walled garden, swimming pool, communal barbecue and dining area (665 468538; tiagua81.com; studios from £73 per night; cottage from £97 per night). If your children are small, skip the coach tour of Timanfaya National Park. The landscape is stark and the Spanish and German translations will bore them to tears. Avoid El Golfo with very young children. Access is along a coastal path which plunges to the sea: perilous for wayward children and panic-inducing for parents. Mosquitoes. Lanzarote surprised us with a few nasty bites, so bring repellent and mosquito nets if you are staying in rural areas.