Burberry's Martial Menswear - NYTimes.com "War, huh, yeah, what is it good for?" asked the lyrics to a 1970s hit by Edwin Starr. The answer: "Absolutely nothing, uh huh!" That's not entirely true, though. The changing demands of war -- or the military, anyway - have generated almost all the major evolution in menswear, particularly when it comes to the longest and most successful of male uniforms, the suit. This is always clear when it comes to one of the designer Christopher Bailey's Burberry shows, which are typically solid when drawing on the house's deep military tradition and often go wonky when Mr. Bailey wanders off base. A handful of looks in Saturday's show were plays on martial outerwear. The most successful were a dandyish olive green great coat with a belted back, a shaped silhouette and so many waist-deep rear vents it seemed vaguely fetishistic and a cropped Eisenhower style jacket in that same hue. It's an open question as to who the buyer might be for those garments. They're probably out there, though, and might have been better served by a show that played changes and variations on a military theme.