Porto, Portugal: A cultural city guide The adjacent church of St Francis is not dissimilar, in that its humble exterior seems at odds with the lavish Baroque carvings hidden within. I found the ornate, gilded wood overwhelming; rather it's the simplicity of the wooden carvings in the ceiling, the original architecture and magnificent rose window that lend the church its beauty. From here, there is a great view across the river to Vila Nova de Gaia, for Porto is in fact a tale of two cities. Separated by the Douro, Gaia is where the original port families stored and aged their wine and the landscape remains dominated by their lodges, each emblazoned with a different family's name. At Taylor's, I wandered among barrels of port the size of lorries before having three (small) glasses of port by the fire. Fortunately I didn't have far to go: my hotel - The Yeatman, named for another port dynasty - was just across the road. After a morning's sightseeing and an afternoon's port tasting, I spent a happy evening in the hotel pool, with the lights of Porto twinkling at me from across the river. Port comes from the world's oldest defined and regulated wine region (1756)  Having a heart attack. Take a taxi or bus to the top of Ribeira and meander back down towards the river.  Driving. The complicated, one-way cobbled streets are steep, convoluted and very narrow.  Eating at the overpriced string of cafés on the riverbank in Ribeira. Do stroll along the waterfront here though and look up at the narrow, old houses above the cafés: their yellow and blue mosaic façades are some of Porto's prettiest.  A trip on the cable car. The views from Gaia or the cathedral in Ribeira are just as impressive. Easyjet (0843 104 5000; easyjet.com) flies to Porto from Gatwick from £55 return. The modern and efficient airport is seven miles from the city centre. A taxi takes roughly 20 minutes and costs around €20/£16 but the cheapest way into town is on the metro. However, it's important to remember to validate your ticket at the start of your journey and every time you subsequently change lines.  Porto and Gaia are easily covered on foot but if you plan to use the metro more than once, buy an Andante card, which is also accepted on buses and trams.  Take the tram from Infante on the riverbank in Ribeira to Passeio Alegre in Foz, the most affluent of the suburbs. It's a touristy route but the sights along the river are worth it. Then head to the nearby roof terrace at the Hotel Boavista (00351 22 532 0020; hotelboavista.com) for a sunset drink overlooking the Atlantic.  Visit Rem Koolhaas's Casa da Música (casadamusica.com) in Boavista. Completed in 2005 and hailed as the best work the Dutch architect has ever done, it is also the perfect example of Porto's recent renaissance.  Every port house offers tastings but Taylor's (Rua do Choupelo 250; taylor.pt) has a lovely terrace restaurant for lunch overlooking the river.  Jorge is an affable and reliable local taxi driver. Call him on his mobile (91 915 7626) and he'll pick you up from anywhere. A Favorita £ This calls itself a pensão but don't be put off. A tiny doorway leads off a bustling street into a beautifully decorated house with 12 minimalist but comfortable bedrooms. Breakfast in the garden is delightful. Book well in advance (00351 22 013 4157; pensaofavorita.pt; doubles from €70/£56). Hotel Infante Sagres ££ A design hotel where traditional, palatial Portuguese features are combined with swathes of colour and modern works of art. Situated in Ribeira, it is very central and has a lovely courtyard restaurant and spa (339 8500; hotelinfantesagres.pt; doubles from €100/£81). The Yeatman £££ Though the décor is too corporate, this is the city's most sophisticated and comfortable hotel and the spa, swimming pools and views are first class (013 3100; the-yeatman-hotel.com; doubles from €154/£124). Traça £ Low-key but lively, this popular old-town restaurant in a converted house serves good, simple food (including tripe, a national favourite). Expect attentive service and excellent wine (Largo São Domingos 88; 208 1065; restaurantetraca.com). Cafeina Wine & Tapas £ Sister to Cafeina, a well-known and equally fashionable restaurant on the same street in Foz; lots of different wine by the glass and exceptional tapas. This is the place to be seen (Rua do Padrão 100; 618 0602; cafeina.pt). Shis ££ Sophisticated fresh fish dishes and sushi served in a contemporary setting overlooking the Atlantic (Praia Do Ourigo Esplanada Do Castelo; 618 9593; shisrestaurante.com).