B'Stilla is not a one-hit Moroccan wonder THERE are moments when you just know you're witnessing the start of a short season. It happened about 18 months ago in Melbourne's South Yarra. While all around Australia the real pizza revolution was happening, with wood-burning ovens and a diaspora of well-trained pizzaioli, this place had installed a conveyor-belt cooker that looked like a turbo-charged toaster for the Qantas Lounge. I smiled, sampled pizza I wouldn't pay for - and smelt a short season. It's unsurprising to discover the place has been remade and remodelled already - as B'Stilla, a Moroccan bistro that's had the blogging community aflutter since early March. And the source of this girlish foodie palpitation is Jason Jones, the Gotye of Melbourne restaurateurs. Virtually unknown in the industry three years ago, Jones opened Mamasita in Collins Street and there's been a queue outside since. Most of Australia's restaurateurs have either cried tears of jealousy or copied him.