A Review of Graceful Rose, in Port Jefferson Mark Ovaska for The New York Times Graceful Rose has crystal chandeliers and views of Port Jefferson Harbor. Ever dream about what you would do if you won the lottery? Richard and Mary Morrison, winners in 2010, decided to open a restaurant, Graceful Rose, in Port Jefferson, a tribute to Richard's mother, Rose, and his grandmother Grace. The restaurant, which opened in August, would be the perfect spot to honor your mother on Mother's Day, but first she has to make it up the 26 steps (7 outside and 19 steep ones inside) to the dining room, on the second floor. The setting is sumptuous, with its crystal chandeliers, lilac tablecloths, deep purple napkins, plush chairs and tufted banquettes; floor-to-ceiling windows afford views of Port Jefferson Harbor. The rose motif is ubiquitous. There are roses in the wrought iron on the outside doors; in a mosaic in the downstairs foyer; and painted on the columns in the dining room. Naturally, there is a rose on every table. The eye-catcher in the dining room, though, is a giant geode, opened to display its masses of purple crystals. Graceful Rose has more than good looks going for it. The restaurant hired Massimo Fedozzi as its executive chef in late March. Mr. Fedozzi is a superstar who in 2008 was the opening chef at Palio Restaurant in Jericho (now closed) and was most recently at Vero in Amityville. The first dish to come from his kitchen was a bowl of finely chopped tomatoes and red onions surrounded by rounds of grilled bread for do-it-yourself bruschetta, a welcoming gratis opener. We followed that with a special of tuna tartare, a luscious construction of paper-thin cucumber slices topped with a thick layer of mashed avocado, another of chopped tuna in a yuzu sauce and a crunchy topknot of pancetta. Two winners from the menu were a creamy lobster bisque loaded with chunks of lobster, and a creation called Thai calamari, with crisp, tender fried rings in a sweet chili sauce dotted with chargrilled fresh pineapple. It was an improvement on the run-of-the-mill variety. Two salads also hit the spot: the wedge with blue cheese and crisp bacon, and a niçoise, a special, sparkling with green beans, red bliss potatoes, black olives, red onions and mixed greens (but no tuna). Clams casino were standard issue. Linguine with white clam sauce was also ordinary. The sauce was loaded with assertive ingredients, but it puddled at the bottom of the bowl and did not coat the pasta. Much better was pollo Giovanni, sautéed egg-battered chicken cutlets topped with spinach, prosciutto, roasted red peppers and mozzarella. The ingredients melded nicely with the sauce of butter, lemon and white wine. Another fine choice was the grilled double-cut free range pork chop, served under a mango-apple chutney and surrounded by assorted baby vegetables and a mound of julienne red cabbage. Short ribs, three big, fork-tender hunks braised for five hours in a red-wine sauce, also impressed, as did a special of pan-seared branzino fillet covered with fresh artichoke hearts and calamata olives in a lemon-white wine sauce. All but two items on the imposing dessert tray are made elsewhere. The two house-made treats were a creamy New York cheesecake and a rich chocolate mousse presented in a rose-decorated teacup with slices of strawberry, a raspberry glaze and whipped cream. Both were worth the calories. Graceful Rose 154 West Broadway (Route 25A) Port Jefferson (631) 509-1792 gracefulroseny.com THE SPACE Lovely second-floor dining room seating 80 and overlooking Port Jefferson Harbor. The restaurant is not wheelchair accessible, given the 19 steps to the dining room (and 7 more outside); restrooms are on the same level. THE CROWD Mainly couples and small groups, including families with children. The staff sometimes gets the placement of dishes wrong but is generally attentive and always nice. THE BAR The bar, in a separate room, has 11 stools and 4 low, glass-topped tables facing a long banquette. Live music Wednesday to Saturday nights. Wine list of 62 bottles ($25 to $400), with nine by the glass ($10 to $13). THE BILL Entrees, $25 to $46, with half the choices under $30. This is a place for special occasions; a price break for those 67 and older (15 percent off the food bill) makes it more affordable. The restaurant accepts American Express, MasterCard, Visa and Discover. WHAT WE LIKED Bruschetta, Thai calamari, lobster bisque, tuna tartare, wedge salad, salade niçoise, pollo Giovanni, short ribs, pork chop, branzino, cheesecake, chocolate mousse. IF YOU GO Open Tuesday to Thursday from 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday from 4 to 11 p.m.; and Sunday from 3 to 10 p.m. Closed Monday. Reservations essential on weekends, recommended at other times. The restaurant has a parking lot; free valet parking.