Spring, Loaded - NYTimes.com When you think of spring rolls, you probably envision the kind that are served as an appetizer at nearly every Thai restaurant in this country, a tangle of sometimes-identifiable vegetables rolled in a thin wrapper, deep-fried and served with a sweet dipping sauce. But spring rolls go far beyond that. They're found all across Asia, with wrappers, fillings and cooking techniques that differ from one country to the next. Fresh spring rolls, sometimes called summer rolls, are a staple in Vietnam. Most typically, they're made of rice paper filled with rice vermicelli, cooked meat or shrimp, raw vegetables, basil, cilantro and mint. They're wonderful, a rare combination of substance and light. I've taken that as a jumping off point and included two other popular Asian wrappers - dried seaweed (nori) and lettuce - and a wide range of fillings to accompany the noodles and herbs. It's the usual A+B+C format; mix and match in whatever way makes sense to you. Some tips, starting with this: Don't overstuff. Rice paper is pliable, but it will tear if you stretch it too thin. And remember that before you even start to stuff, rice paper can be tricky. Soak a sheet of it briefly (10 seconds is about right) in a dish or skillet of hot water (110 degrees or so). Put it on a paper or dish towel so it doesn't stick, then fill and roll as tightly as you can, folding in the sides like a burrito. Don't be intimidated: I once spent an evening being laughed at by a small crowd of Vietnamese women for my attempts at doing this; but my efforts were ultimately successful, and they're better every time I try. Soaking rice vermicelli - you can use glass (mung bean) noodles if you prefer - in boiled water requires only 5 to 10 minutes for it to become tender. Boiling it on the stove for a minute or two also works, but keep an eye on it so it doesn't overcook; you want it to retain a slight bite. Rinse it in cold water when it's done to stop the cooking. Drain well before using. Lettuce is easy, but if you're using nori, spritz the sheets all over with a little water before you fill them; it will soften them up enough to roll without much hassle. From that point, you're essentially making sushi (you could even use cooked short-grain rice in place of noodles if you like). Spread the noodles all over the nori, except for the far edge. Pile the fillings closest to you and roll, wetting the far edge of the seaweed with a little more water to seal the roll. I prefer long rolls - hand rolls, I guess - but cut them into small pieces if you prefer. These may not feel like fried spring rolls, but they'll definitely feel like spring. Related: Master Spring-Roll Recipe