A Review of the Old Lyme Inn, in Old Lyme GOOD AS NEW The Old Lyme Inn reopened in April with a brighter and airier interior, but with a familiar, cozy atmosphere. THE OLD LYME INN reopened in April after a year's renovation by the couple who now own it, Ken and Chris Kitchings, and it fairly gleams under a glossy coat of white paint. Those who knew the place in its previous incarnation will find the interior brighter, and airier, too. Walls in the three dining areas - the main dining room, the intimate Peterson Room and the bar - have been repainted in shades of white and cream, white oak flooring has replaced dark blue carpets, and a window cut between bar and reception allows additional light. This 1856 structure was converted to an inn in the 1950s, with the extension of the Connecticut Turnpike. Before then it was a 300-acre working farm; fields and woodlands behind the property and the nearby Lieutenant River provided inspiration for local impressionist painters. The barn served as a studio for artists, members of the Lyme Art Colony living down the road at Miss Florence Griswold's boardinghouse (now the Florence Griswold Museum). When the Kitchings bought the inn, it was in need of major repair. While undertaking the necessary modernization, they also tried, successfully, to retain its original charm. They restored rather than replaced elements like the handsome wooden bar, fireplaces and the entryway mural painted in 1965 by a local artist, Gigi Liverant; Ms. Liverant herself restored the mural last year. Eight of the 13 guest rooms have also been redone, and renovations of the other five are under way. This conjoining of traditional and contemporary is mirrored in the restaurant's small, locally sourced dinner menu. Traditional selections like calf's liver and filet mignon are offered along with less formal choices - hamburgers, salmon burgers, lobster sliders and beef kebabs. The patio is a delightful setting for a summer dinner, but the food was uneven. A wood-fired grill infused the almost cracker-thin, buffalo mozzarella and tomato pizza with a pleasant, smoky taste. A gazpacho of green grapes and cucumber made a terrific, light summer appetizer; cold, sweet and crunchy with almonds, it was finished with a drizzle of chili oil. A generous salad of romaine hearts had a thick dressing that lacked bite despite the anchovies, while a garden salad of baby lettuces with nasturtiums was so lightly dressed as to be tasteless. The salmon burger was overcooked, as was the Cajun-spiced swordfish. But the latter was saved by excellent, smoky black beans and a tangy tomatillo salsa. Scallops, a special, were beautifully cooked but dwarfed by a large spoonful of buttery mashed potatoes, chunky with lobster and corn. We had to send back overcooked loin lamb chops. Our waitress was accommodating and the chops were delicious when they eventually arrived; there ought to have been an adjustment on the bill, however. The casual menu seemed less appropriate at our second dinner, eaten in the graceful main dining room, which seemed to call for a more formal meal. Appetizer mussels were overcooked, and the broth was curiously sour. While the creamy buffalo mozzarella was delicious on a caprese salad, the locally grown tomatoes lacked taste, and the salad was heavily salted. An order of calf's liver arrived gray and overcooked inside, and blackened outside; caramelized onions were vinegary. Scottish salmon was also slightly overcooked and undersalted; the soft "French" lentils looked and tasted like their standard green cousins. Grits was made with dehydrated corn kernels, producing a sweet, soft mixture that bore little resemblance to the standard. The bar, an elegant, lively room with a working gas marble fireplace at one end, is a cozy spot for dessert. We moved there from the patio when the evening grew cool. Again, reviews were mixed: the pastry on a blueberry-peach crostata was terribly undercooked, and the fruit begged for more sugar. The airy cheesecake was marred by a soggy graham cracker crust. But it was nonetheless tasty, as was a wedge of sweet-tart, fluffy, lemon pie, and the warm, flourless, liquid-centered chocolate cake was appreciated by all. The Kitchings have done a fine job in renovating the Old Lyme Inn. It is a lovely place for a meal, with a welcoming atmosphere, and deserves to be popular for that reason. But the food has a long way to go before it matches the setting. Old Lyme Inn 85 Lyme Street Old Lyme (860) 434-2600 oldlymeinn.com THE SPACE A restored, 19th-century inn with three dining areas (main dining room, bar with fireplace and Peterson Room with fireplace and flat-screen television) and seasonal outdoor patio. Walls are decorated with landscapes on loan from the nearby Cooley Gallery. The Peterson Room is available for private parties. Wheelchair access; entrance on the right side of the inn (follow signs). THE CROWD A wide range of ages in casual dress. This would be a fine place for children (though we saw none). THE BAR Friendly, intimate room with a seven-seat bar attracts a younger crowd; 10 additional tables for drinks or dining. The cocktail menu is popular. Small international wine list including several bottles under $40. THE BILL Moderately expensive. Lunch: appetizers, $7 to $12; entrees, $12 to $22. Dinner: appetizers, $7 to $12; entrees, $13 (hamburger) to $26. American Express, MasterCard, Visa and Discover accepted. WHAT WE LIKED White gazpacho, wood-fired mozzarella pizza, hearts of romaine, swordfish with tomatillo salsa, loin lamb chops; double lemon pie, flourless chocolate cake. IF YOU GO Lunch: Tuesday through Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Dinner: Tuesday through Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m., but the kitchen will accommodate late clients, according to management. The bar is open 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Ample parking in a lot on the property.