Balenciaga - Sportswear and Ease - NYTimes.com Balenciaga, by Alexander Wang, spring/summer 2014, in Paris. PARIS - The backs at Balenciaga were rounded but never humped; the dresses were short and cute, occasionally lengthened with airy chiffon; the patterns were floral, neither too big nor too small. And the curvy shorts, showing a flash of skin at the midriff, had a sporty feel. This just-right Balenciaga collection from Alexander Wang on Thursday was his second in the name of the cult couturier. And as an interpretation of what the American-based designer believes in - sportswear, lightness and youthful energy - it was well done. Even the venue, at the Paris Observatory, filled with greenery, felt fresh. "It was the idea of bringing sportswear and ease, to define Cristóbal's silhouette but trying to interpret the vocabulary in my own way," said the designer backstage, to explain the way he had deflated the dramatic Balenciaga backs, used airy slips and brought a softness to everything apart from tightly woven leather with the look of tweed. Mr. Wang has a dual challenge: not just forgetting that he is following in the footsteps of a couture giant whose template was for geometric forms that shadowed, but barely touched, his clients" contours; and the legacy of the most recent designer Nicolas Ghesquière, who inserted elements of surprise and shock in fabric, shapes and in weird and wonderful footwear. Mr. Wang was having none of that. This was literally Balenciaga light. Compared to last season, when the newbie designer chose a tiny venue and seemed focused on marble print, this show had more space and variety, as mirrors allowed the outfits to be seen from different angles. Silvered jewelry and simple shoes and a small, squishy bag were the accessories. This will probably be the easiest collection to sell since Kering (formerly PPR) bought dusty brand in 2001, and maybe this commercial appeal is what is required of Mr. Wang. But if everything seemed so well-chosen - from the colors, an inset of purple among blush pink, pale blue and neutrals and a floral pattern in ink blue or pink - why was there no lift of the heart at this well-planned display? As the famous fashion phrase has it: Inventiveness is when you never knew what you wanted until you saw it. And for all its stylish energy, Mr. Wang's interpretation was nice but soulless. It never reached Cristóbal Balenciaga's noble heart.