Artichoke, Old Amersham, restaurant review The French maître d" suggested two delicious wines by the glass, a Dreissigacker riesling, £8 for 125ml, and a rich and rounded dolcetto d'Alba, £9, and talked interestingly about several. But my main course would have been a challenge for any wine. A poached fillet of brill on a bed of samphire, it came lapped with an over-reduced orange and bayleaf sauce that slightly overwhelmed the subtle fish. Also on the plate was a foamy sweet-onion mousse trapped in a cylinder of crisp brik pastry, which was so delicious that I ate it all while still puzzling how they kept the pastry so crisp while wrapping a mousse. There's a clever kitchen here. I looked with envy at G's poached loin of rose veal; served pink and rolled in a cep and rosemary crust, it sat in a small lake of deeply verdant nettle pesto. All around the plate were little dollops of parmesan "custard," which had the texture of whipped cream, with mushrooms, asparagus and crisp spirals of potato. They like a busy plate here, but every element played its part to perfection. While we waited for G's pudding they brought a glass of fluffy goat's-milk mousse with an intense sorrel purée, one of the best things I have tasted in ages. G's raspberry soufflé was perfectly risen, fruity and buttery, with a sharp lemon-balm ice cream to cut its richness. I had a plate of cheese: eight small wedges of British and French varieties, with biscuits and a home-made relish. I emailed my chum on the way home. For a moment she felt a bit narked - until she started on the, "Well, wasn't I right?" And I had to admit it: she was. Red Onion 257 West Campbell Street, Glasgow (0141 221 6000) A big, bright, casual place with simple wooden tables and, fittingly, red-purple banquette booths and onion motifs on the walls. On the menu, the allium stars as marmalade with the chicken-liver parfait (£6.50) and in rings with the 10oz chargrilled sirloin (£19.95) The Bean Inn Carbis Bay, St Ives (01736 795918) This veggie café goes big on exotic flavours, often drawing from Indian, Thai and Moroccan cuisines for inspiration. Try the stuffed potato cakes with pea curry, spicy tarka dal, and chilli and coriander flatbread (£11.50) Wild Mushroom Woodgate House, Westfield Lane, Westfield, East Sussex (01424 751137) Expect exquisitely presented classics with a twist at this elegant converted Victorian farmhouse, from cured salmon with wakame seaweed and a pear and lime dressing (£6.50), to breast and confit leg of duckling with roast peaches (£16)