A Review of Blackstones Steakhouse, in Mount Kisco In the last few years, Mount Kisco has enjoyed a rush of restaurants drawn to its buzzing downtown. Joining the long-appreciated Thai Angel's and the Spanish restaurant La Camelia, newcomers have been filling other ethnic niches. There's Neo with its creative New World spins on Asian fare; Bonnie Saran's Indian and French places, Little Kebab Station and Little Crepe Street; the Ethiopian spot Lalibela; the trattoria and cafe Via Vanti!; and La Pandasia, a Greek taverna - to mention just a few. It was only a matter of time until a steakhouse threw its hat into the ring. In March, Blackstones Steakhouse did just that, jumping into the space previously occupied by Enzo's of Arthur Avenue and the Fish Cellar. This recent addition is owned by the Ahmetaj family, which operates a similar restaurant in Norwalk, Conn., with a third soon to open in Greenwich, Conn. These restaurateurs are not new to the industry, so it is surprising that the Mount Kisco Blackstones seems so polished in some ways and so amateurish in others. The steps leading down to this basement restaurant can be daunting, but the entry, with its handsome partition of wine bottles, gives way to a bright, cheerful bar and spacious lounge. Here, high tables are popular for drinks and snacks, and if the tops were broader - steaks need lots of space - this room would be a pleasant spot to have a complete dinner. The dark dining room, down a dim corridor, was less inviting. The list of appetizers is short but has a couple of tasty dishes worth investigating, like the thick slab of sizzling Nueske bacon. Artistic presentation was often lacking at Blackstones, and this tasty chunk came naked on a big white plate. Looking more appealing was a lovely ring mold of bigeye tuna tartar, a layering of pleasingly rough-chopped tuna with citrus and smooth avocado. Other selections were hit or miss. Small, delicious mussels might have been even better without a fishy tasting broth; overcooking toughened the big, lemony shrimp; and while three baby octopuses were grilled to leather, they came with a delicious vegetable salad that included corn, edamame, tomatoes and sweet peppers. A generous selection of salads balanced the heavy-hitting meats. The house green salad was a lot more than baby arugula, and included dried cranberries, candied nuts and blue cheese under a balanced vinaigrette. The Caesar, however, had the croutons and anchovies in place, but failed in other respects, particularly in a dressing that might have come from a bottle. The restaurant's specialty is its prime dry-aged beef. But while we appreciated the high quality of the meat, steaks were not cooked to our specifications. Whether the waiter failed to note our request for medium-rare on the rare side or the kitchen paid little attention to that request, the result was a nicely charred, thick porterhouse for two done to a juiceless medium. A rib-eye steak, again the meat first-rate, met the same fate. Roasted chicken, pork loin and duck breast were also on offer. We sampled the double-cut lamb chops, which were, to our taste, also overcooked. Diners passing on meat have fish selections to choose from, but inconsistency in preparation appeared here as well. Wild king salmon was done to a turn, the soft glossy shards slipping free at the touch of a fork, with fine sautéed spinach and mashed potato alongside. Yet Chilean sea bass was not only overcooked but oversalted, with a few orange slices providing scant accompaniment. As for steakhouse sides, we liked the mashed and baked potatoes, broccoli with garlic and oil, and sautéed spinach, which was better than the creamed version overdosed with nutmeg. Asked which desserts were made in house, the waiter proudly stated that they all were, although when pressed about the sorbets, carrot cake and tartufo he qualified his reply. Those we had were skippable: heavy tiramisù; doughy apple pie with disintegrated apples and old, chalky vanilla ice cream on the side; and chocolate mousse, pale in both color and flavor. Blackstones faces a health-conscious clientele that, nonetheless, would enjoy a splurge on a juicy steak. We hope that this young, promising restaurant will take a little more care with what it offers and will continue to have a place in Mount Kisco's culinary vitality. Blackstones Steakhouse 213 East Main Street Mount Kisco (914) 218-3880 blackstoneswestchester.com THE SPACE A staircase from Main Street leads down to a railroad-style basement restaurant with a well-lighted bar in front. The dim, somewhat somber dining areas, farther back, are windowless and a bit musty. Black-and-white photos punctuate the walls. Not wheelchair accessible. THE CROWD Mostly local adults in casual but neat attire. Service is pleasant but not always reliable in taking orders or describing dishes. THE BAR A bright bar, partially enclosed in glass, and a lounge with high tables. The wine list is expensive but fairly priced, with most bottles over $60 and few under $40. Wines by the glass and cocktails, $9 to $15. THE BILL Raw bar, $15 to $20; seafood platter for two, $55. Entrees, $23 to $44; some entrees come without vegetable garnishes, which are priced from $6 to $8. WHAT WE LIKED Sizzling Nueske bacon, bigeye tuna tartar, farm fresh house green salad, wild king salmon, broccoli, baked potato, sautéed spinach. IF YOU GO Dinner only, Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 3 to 9:30 p.m. Reservations a good idea, especially if a specific area is desired. Tight street parking. Valet parking on weekends.