Cookbook of the week: Simon Hopkinson Cooks A lot of thought has gone into Simon Hopkinson's latest tome, unlike many modern cookbooks. Based on his recent cookery programme, it is set out as menus for 12 sorts of meal, from a grand fish lunch to a weekend breakfast. Hopkinson, whose previous books have won accolades including "most useful cookbook of all time," thinks food is better "if a little time and trouble is taken in the kitchen." For those who agree, here are recipes - masterpieces of clarity and sense - for dishes such as roast duck, beetroot jelly, sherry trifle, and Jansson's Temptation - a great way to use up excess spuds and cream. 2 x 125g tins Swedish anchovies, including the juice from only one of the tins 6 medium-sized red-skinned potatoes, peeled, cut into thick matchsticks, rinsed, drained well and dried 400ml whipping cream 2 tbsp fresh white breadcrumbs Preheat the oven to 190C/gas mark 5. Grease a shallow ovenproof dish with half of the butter. Fill its base with the onions. Using scissors, snip the anchovies into small pieces. Distribute them over the onions and pour over the juice. Cover with the potatoes, press down lightly and season. Pour over the cream. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the surface and dot with the remaining butter. Bake for 45 minutes to an hour. Simon Hopkinson Cooks, Ebury Press, £25