Cave de Beblenheim Heimberger Les Origines Gewurztraminer 2011, France Co-operative wineries - which press and bottle juice for dozens or hundreds of growers - get a bad rap. Certainly there are some, notably in France's south, that prefer to focus on quantity rather than quality. But some aim high, as does Cave de Beblenheim with this opulent, multilayered white. If you like gewurztraminer - a love-it-or-hate-it spicy and floral grape - don't overlook this one. Made from the concentrated fruit of vines aged 30 years or older, it's sweeter than off-dry but well-balanced. Rich apricot-like flavour mingles with heady rose-petal perfume and a hint of ginger. Silky, soft and long on the finish. Great for dishes featuring lots of aromatic spicing such as light curries. And ideal for liver pâtés or cheeses, especially pungent blue varieties.