Pinot Blancs and Viogniers of the East End Pinot blanc and viognier, grapes that flourish in Europe, play minor roles in Long Island vineyards. Both yield food-friendly, dry whites that harmonize especially well with fish and shellfish from the region's waters. In this 40th anniversary year of the East End's maritime-climate wine industry, only a few vintners pay attention to both. But by the 45th year, likely advancements in the mastery of these wines - which should be drunk lightly chilled for maximum pleasure - could challenge the dominance of local chardonnay. The pinot blanc standard-bearer is Lieb Cellars, in Mattituck and Cutchogue. It plans to open an East Hampton tasting room soon. Its 100 percent pinot blanc sparkling wine has been one of the area's most winsome sparklers since the mid-1990s. Lieb's outstanding citric, spicy 2010 blanc de blancs brut ($35) has a seemingly endless finish. The pleasing 2011 pinot blanc ($22), a still wine, is light and sturdy. The soft 2012 pinot blanc from Shinn Estate Vineyards, in Mattituck, offers a lush aroma and fruit-salad flavors, and the 2010 is mellow and juicy (each $35). Palmer Vineyards, in Riverhead, sells an amiable 2012 pinot blanc ($19.99) that offers an attractive fragrance and melonlike flavors. As for viognier (pronounced vee-own-YAY), the graceful, easy-drinking 2011 ($40) from Bedell Cellars, in Cutchogue, is beautifully made. Consumers will find mouthwatering acidity and lots of nuances. Another appealing version is Peconic Bay Winery's creamy, full-bodied, pearlike 2012 viognier ($19.95), with an aroma that is lovely to inhale. The wine is found at Empire State Cellars, a Riverhead shop that serves as Peconic Bay's tasting room. Martha Clara Vineyards's especially interesting, delicate 2012 estate reserve viognier ($28.99) delivers a bakery aroma and a vein of spearmintlike flavor. The 2010 viognier, with a hint of pineapple, is a simple lunch wine, as is the crisp 2011 (each $21.99).