Top tips for shrubs and trees Dig a trench around the shrub about 12-16in (30-40cm) deep and 12in (30cm) wide and use a spade to undercut the rootball. Thicker roots may need to be severed cleanly with secateurs, but it is critical to retain as much of the fibrous root system as possible. Thin the top growth lightly by pruning out any dead, diseased or damaged wood. Gently tie in branches to make handling easier. Slide a sheet of tarpaulin or heavy-duty plastic sheeting under the rootball so that the shrub is sitting on the tarpaulin. With extra help, drag the shrub out of the hole by the tarpaulin, not by the branches or the unsupported rootball, to avoid damage. Cover the rootball with moist sacking to prevent roots drying out. Ideally, lift and replant in one operation by dragging the shrub into its new position, still on the tarpaulin, and sliding the tarpaulin out from under the rootball. How to plant Ensure that the shrub is at the same depth in the planting hole as it was before by placing a cane across the hole and using the old soil mark on the stem of the shrub as a guide. Make sure to spread out the roots fully. Backfill with soil, firming as you go to remove air pockets that could hinder root establishment. Tall plants may need staking or guying for up to two years after planting to allow the roots to establish. Water the plant thoroughly and ensure that the soil is watered once a week during the following growing season, particularly during dry spells. Mulch the surface of the soil with a thick layer of organic matter; this helps to regulate moisture and temperature. However, try to keep the stem of the shrub clear of mulch as this can encourage rot to take hold. While the shrub is establishing, keep the area around its base free of weeds and grass, which will compete with the plant for food and water. Apply a general fertiliser in spring as the shrub comes into growth. Meet the expert Alistair Penstone-Smith Alistair is the woodland team leader at RHS Wisley. He estimates that around 300-400 trees and shrubs were planted or lifted and replanted by his team last year. At Wisley, just as in any other garden, a young tree may get too large for its site and crowd out other plants. Alternatively, it may be occupying a valuable sunny site when it would thrive equally well in the shade. Alistair often has to move shrubs and trees in order to maximise interest and share out the sunnier spots. To move a larger tree successfully, Alistair says that it is important to start preparatory work up to a year in advance. In the dormant season, he recommends digging a circular trench 12in (30cm) wide and one spade deep around the rootball and backfilling with an open, well-draining soil mix. This stimulates the tree to produce masses of fibrous, feeding roots. He also advises digging the planting hole well in advance, along with any soil cultivation needed to improve aeration and porosity, and to break up pans in the soil. Stakes should be short enough to allow the tree to flex and strengthen its trunk. Alistair warns against leaving stakes and ties for too long. A properly planted and staked tree should only need support for about 18 months. After this time, it should be established. Quick trouble shooter: silver leaf Silver leaf is a fungal disease caused by Chondrostereum purpureum. Spores are produced from September to May, and infect through wounds, usually caused by pruning. The most susceptible trees are Prunus, which includes stone fruits such as plums and cherries, as well as rhododendron and laburnum. The foliage of affected stems and branches develops a silver sheen and fungus fruiting bodies appear (above). Affected parts of the tree will die. It is essential, therefore, that pruning of Prunus is restricted to early summer, when the spores are no longer a threat and so that wounds have time to heal before autumn. RHS: news and events The RHS is hosting Free Day Friday at all four of its gardens on November 7. Come and experience Wisley, Hyde Hall, Rosemoor and Harlow Carr in all their autumn beauty. From November 7-23, Harlow Carr will host the Just Makers Christmas craft exhibition. The Bath House will be filled with a range of gifts made by local craftspeople. On November 14, there will be a chance to learn which plants and features can be used to add colour, scent, texture and forms to your garden in a winter-interest workshop; RHS members £40, non-members £48. The Royal Watercolour Society celebrates its 210th anniversary with an exhibition of paintings celebrating gardens and gardening at Wisley, November 19-30. Also at Wisley, on November 20, RHS ambassador and Bake Off star Mary Berry will open the late shopping evening and sign copies of her books. Free entry to the Plant Centre and Gift Shop Visit Hyde Hall on November 20 for an evening of Christmas shopping. There will be 20 per cent off shop purchases, plus a Christmas market, local choirs, a special visitor from the North Pole and refreshments from the Field Café. The Essex Craft and Design Show takes up residence from November 22-23. Visitors will have the opportunity to buy original arts and crafts. Rosemoor hosts the Winter Sculpture Exhibition, November 22-February 22. Explore a mix of exhibits from a range of sculptors throughout the garden. Pick up a leaflet and see how many you can discover, or join a free guided sculpture walk.