EasyJet to launch flights to Essaouira "Cosmopolitan cafes and stylish eateries spill out of every square, smart bars and restaurants are de rigueur and beach clubs rule the golden strand that was once the preserve of touts and camels," she added. Unlike Marrakesh, where shopping can test your patience, the city's souks are "gloriously hassle-free" and "a great source of cotton blankets in Farrow & Ball colours, carved wooden boxes and psychedelic paintings." Tara Stevens recommends staying at Dar Adul (63 Rue Touahen, Essaouira Medina; 524 473 910; dar-adul.com; doubles with breakfast from €55 a night for the smallish Rabaa room to €120 for the Séta Room) - "Right at the heart of the action, yet cunningly tucked just behind the sea wall so you're never far from the sound of crashing Atlantic waves" - or Dar Maya (33 Rue d'Oujda; 524 785 687; riaddarmaya.com); doubles from €120 a night including breakfast) - "A sleek renovation by English expat Gareth Turpin has turned this roomy townhouse into an elegantly modern space."