Delicious squash recipes in time for Thanksgiving The memory of Hallowe'en is fading, but pumpkins and squash are very much still around, and are bound to feature in American Thanksgiving celebrations next week. Even in the UK, most people know that squash make a great buttery mash, and that they are delicious among a platter of mixed roast veggies - but they've got more to offer. These days, thank goodness, you can get a bit more than just butternut squash in the shops. Butternut is fine, don't get me wrong, but for me its almost artificially sweet nature and simple texture make it just an appealing gateway to more exciting gourds. There are loads of squash and pumpkins, and it's worth experimenting when you see them at the greengrocer. Some are a little watery, but I have already found that this year's crop is delicious and varied in flavour. I've recently been buying wonderful big delica squash from one of my Italian suppliers (natoora.co.uk). The delica is my ideal squash - it is sweet, but not too sweet, and has a great firm texture, edible pretty green skin (less work for the chef) and is as happy fried as it is roasted, mashed or in a risotto. When cooking with squash, it's important to balance the sweetness with something intensely savoury: anchovy, pancetta, salty cheese and chilli all help to make the sweet squash more delicious. Deep-fried squash might seem a bit weird, but trust me on this, it works. I first came across this treatment in Japan, where top chefs are unparalleled masters of the fryer. Cut thinly and cooked in a tempura batter, and served over a bowl of rice, it makes a wonderful simple lunch - here I present it as I do at Rotorino, my Italian restaurant in Dalston, east London: very simple, with a tasty anchovy-laced mayonnaise. We all know squash risotto, it's a pretty standard recipe, but done properly it can be truly fantastic. With the right weather, and the right wine, a plate of this rice can approach a perfect moment for me. Squash soup is another well-loved recipe that, when done correctly, can safely deliver that contented, warm-inside, cold-outside feeling that is what autumn cooking is all about.