Paris Fashion Week: Hussein Chalayan autumn/winter 2012 Hussein Chalayan delivered a sharply thought-out collection of perfect autumn pieces at Paris Fashion Week. 'SEPARATION' was the word that flashed up, projected onto a blurry black and white photo backdrop that danced with coloured pixels. Fittingly so, for as it flashed, four models emerged wearing a garment - a boxy, supersized tabard with an open panel to the front and hardback-book accordion effect at the side - a separate that's just the thing for any woman in search of speedy separation from their partner. The rest of this collection though, dripped with wonderful clothes as sharply thought-out as the photos in the background were unfocused. As one colleague said on the way out - moments before tripping on a deviously disguised step - "If Pheobe did that at Céline we'd all be wetting ourselves." Chalayan presented a series of subtitled tableaux - they included "NO DARK NO LIGHT," "REVERSE WINTER," "LIT SOLITUDE" - that were completed when clusters of models trooped out for their group shots. All th e action from Paris Fashion Week Long, loose dresses in quietly arresting colours - a red tinted orange and a deep bottle-green were the dominant shades - jarred against narrowly cut trousers, and the odd pair of lurex leggings, worn with flat shoes and quietly detailed overcoats that the models huddled-up inside of. A brief metallics section saw the shoes come in Elton John-ish gold with silver toes and a matching silver trousers that reflected rainbow flashes. A hooded, cape-detailed coat in that rusty orange teamed with matching slim trousers and Cordovan coloured flats looked ideal wear for a moody, ultra-modern autumnal mooch. PHOTOS: Vladimir Potop