A Quick Preparation for Lamb Rib Chops WE think of spring as the season of the lamb, but in truth, the term "spring lamb" is a misnomer. The lamb you see in shops now is from animals 6 to 9 months old, which means they were born last fall at the earliest. The exception is suckling or milk-fed lamb, only a few weeks old, which is a delicacy prized in Europe but rarely available in the United States. If you can find it, it is extraordinary. Modern breeding practices make lamb available year round, and it is now relatively mild-flavored, raised to a smaller size than mutton, which is a sheep 1 to 2 years old. One doesn't see mutton much in this country - it is more often found in the British Isles - though some cooks favor its more intense taste. Generally speaking, with lamb, smaller is better when it come to flavor. Perhaps because lamb is not as well loved by Americans as it is elsewhere, it tends to be a pricey commodity. The majority of domestic lamb comes from Colorado these days, but imported lamb from New Zealand is what many butchers carry. Expect to pay a pretty penny for both, especially for the prime cuts. Lamb bought from your farmers" market or online from small farms will cost somewhat more, though chances are it was more carefully raised and may have a smaller carbon footprint. The rack of lamb and the loin, which can be quickly grilled or sautéed, are more expensive than the braising cuts, like shank or shoulder. Yet for a splurge dinner, rib chops (the tender little chops from the rack) make tasty morsels, and cooking them at home is still far cheaper than ordering them at a restaurant. Though you can buy individual rib chops, it is easy to cut a rack into eight chops yourself, which is more economical. (You will want to have it Frenched, that is, trimmed to expose the bones and rib-eye. Most butchers sell lamb racks that are already prepared this way.) How many chops make a portion? Two make a moderate serving, but you may need three or four for heartier appetites. A wonderful way to prepare rib chops is to coat them in a mixture of bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese, then fry them gently in olive oil to give them a crisp, golden, savory crust. Served with lemon wedges and a pile of garlicky greens like broccoli rabe or spinach, they make a lovely springtime treat.