Wine Review: Gewürztraminer - Telegraph Gewürztraminer, the white grape, is either deeply fashionable or completely naff, depending on whom you ask. This is a wine that divides the room. Those who revere it hail its deeply exotic scent, complete lack of clumsy oak (heavy oak is so 1990s) and amazing ability to match modern, spicy fusion dishes. Those who decry it point to the tall, green bottles (so 1970s), the often sweet hint, and the arcane Germanic labels of France's Alsace region, where much is made. But I'm with the gewürz crowd. The bottle shape doesn't matter a jot, and at least in Alsace the grape variety is clearly stated on the front. And surely we can get over our suspicion of sweeter wines if a dab of honey makes them dazzling partners for Thai lemon-grass and coconut curries, peppery Sichuan cuisine, sticky soy-marinaded pork ribs, dim sum, not to mention onion tarts, cheese pastries, fruit salads... Asda Extra Special Alsace Gewürztraminer 2010, France (£7.87) Well-priced entry-level gewürz, and an especially spicy example, with ginger, rosewater, peppered peaches and even a note of cardamom. Off-dry, not over-sweet, and a treat with stir-fried chilli prawns. Domaine Paul Blanck Gewürztraminer 2010, Alsace, France (Waitrose, £13.99) On the sweeter side, and one for a board of mild, creamy cheeses, this is hugely fruity, packing in notes of yellow apples, Williams pears and crunchy green grapes. Domaines Schlumberger Gewürztraminer 'Les Princes Abbés' 2009, Alsace, France (Majestic, £15.99, or £12.99 when you buy two or more) Distinctly medium-sweet, with a soft, creamy texture, rose-petal aroma and juicy, ripe apricot at the core. Drink with fresh fruit salads or sweet-marinaded pork. TIPPLE TIP a good zing going... Simple, healthy purple sprouting broccoli and early spring-greens dishes find a lovely match with dry, crisp, slightly herby Italian whites. Try a chilled gavi or vermentino with stir-fried or lightly dressed green vegetables for true spring zing