Mastering the art of French pruning The lesson of the book is that you must tackle the pruning slowly, reducing the lateral growth so that you open up the centre. You start as you might with any plant, by taking out all dead and crossing wood and removing all spindly side growth; then you stop and look to see what else should go. Having private tuition from John was a quick way to gain confidence, but I think I could have grasped the principles from the book. There are 25 case studies - including a magnolia, which I have always been fearful of touching - and the author stresses that none should be considered an absolute example and that every tree or shrub should keep its natural shape. The timing of the operation, the book says, is from August until May. I suspect it is much easier to tackle without leaves to muddle the picture. For the private practical, John chose a large Ptelea trifoliata at the back of the summer garden here in Gloucestershire. This was something I thought I had pruned last year, as I knew it was too dominant, but with John to guide me I saw that I had been far too cautious. When we had finished there was a huge pile of branches on the lawn. At the start, John stood on the ground directing operations, and it may always be a help to have two people to do this job, as it is quite hard to see what needs to be removed while on the ladder. Twiggy side growths were the first to go, then any small crossing growths. This was done with secateurs, and John made me cut as close to the branch as possible - much closer than I thought was right, as he said wounds heal faster that way. We rubbed some soil on the cuts at the end. When it came to the slightly bigger branches - those about 4in in diameter - we upgraded the tool to a little pruning saw. John taught me to cut the branch higher than the final cut so that there was no danger of the weight of the branch ripping the bark. At one moment, pulling out the cut branch threatened to make me topple, even on the safe tripod ladder. A cry for help got John on the rung behind to help manhandle it down. We thought readers would enjoy an action shot, but the photographer declined to take it on health-and-safety grounds. At the end John cut off a few even larger branches with a bow saw. When we stood back to admire our work I could not believe how good it looked. So good that it really showed up the lanky Prunus x subhirtella behind with a wonky leader. The large lime over the churchyard wall fell on it years ago, and I never had the heart to remove it. But I have now; the cherry went the same week, and the sculptural Ptelea looks terrific against a background of the neighbour's evergreens. I want to rejuvenate many other plants now, especially the lopsided Crataegus persimilis 'Prunifolia" in the dell and the Heptacodium in the summer garden that everyone assured me would never get too big. When those are done, I may even tackle a magnolia. Basic principles Stand back and look at the natural shape of the tree Use sharp, clean tools Aim for an open centre - think of a vase Remove dead wood and crossing branches Take out spindly side shoots Cut lateral shoots where they interfere with the chosen shape and as high up the leaders as you can Prune close to the main branch or trunk so that wounds heal Cut heavy branches a couple of feet above the final cut Stand back and admire your work Add more plants under the rejuvenated tree