Paris Fashion Week: Viktor & Rolf autumn/winter 2012 Soft, feminine, and romantic - with a little bit of mystery. Luke Leitch on Viktor & Rolf's moonlight-bathe tribute to the Don't be too surprised if Katy Perry hits the stage sometime soon wearing a sheer black dress criss-crossed with fur, over mid-thigh pull-ups, black high-waist underpants and some tortoiseshell-effect heels. For as the model wearing just this look passed Perry on Viktor & Rolf's catwalk, the blue-haired singer turned to her bench mate and made some particularly animated comment. Stars at the shows It was part of the studiously sexed-up middle section of a collection that was both provocative and precise: a note backstage required that the stockings worn by one model had their thigh-encircling apex at the exact mid-point of a slit in the pair of herringbone shorts, which she wore with a satin brown shirt tied loosely to the back, a gold-detailed black jacket, and some hole-punched gloves. This was the detail, but the broad sweep of this show was well thought out and theatrical as ever. It opened with a picture of the moon projected at the back, and a white, lightly sparkling path meandering left and right down the catwalk like moonlight on dappled water. The photographers howled appreciatively. Then the models were put on a conveyor belt along behind that backlight backdrop, to display the silhouettes of the looks before they were fully revealed. When they did appear, the first looks were loose pyjama-style satin shirt-and-trouser combos, in prints and sometimes with pussy-bows, that were a little vintage Yves Saint Laurent in feel. These were teamed with fur cuffs and those tortoiseshell shoes with furry details at the heel. An implacable female voice read out some lyrics from Blue Moon - "You saw me standing alone, without a dream in my heart, without a love of my own" - as the looks changed to drawstring waisted loose trousers under wide coats, or matte-effect trousers and trimmed coats that looked slick and chic. There were some enormous fur coats, painstakingly shaven to create gridded lines and some clever fur-print jacquard.The models had Rita Hayworth waves, almost consumptive pallors and the dark berry lips that have all been recurring themes in the film noir-tinted styling so popular this season. Backstage, Rolf Snoeren said: "We were working around something that was soft, feminine, poetic and romantic - but also something that was a little dark and mysterious. We like mystery. As the show closed with a series of great dark evening dresses frothing with ruffles and shot through with bronze over black, that female narrator returned to mournfully say: "I heard somebody whisper please adore me, and then I looked to the moon it turned to gold." At just that moment, the moon did indeed turn to gold and the final model stepped back into the moving silhouette-only backdrop.