Paris Fashion Week: Loewe autumn/winter 2012 Some fresh ideas from Stuart Vevers at Loewe, but it would have been good to see a bit more colour, says Lisa Armstrong. It's not Stuart Vevers' fault that the Jean Paul Gaultier show which proceeds Loewe is invariably late and long. But if there's such a thing as show rage, it was palpable among the front rowers who dribbled through the studiously graceful courtyard of the Université Paris Descartes for his Loewe show on Saturday night having battled the post-Gaultier traffic, while PRs paced nervously waiting for a full complement. It's not Vevers' fault either, that every other label this season is embossing, stamping, lasering and melding black leather - traditional Loewe specialities. Inevitably some of what he brought to the table had already been served elsewhere - notably black leather circle skirts. Is anyone going to wear any of them by the way? Even the neoprene coated wool versions that Vevers showed are a big ask. As for the full-skirt and statement jumper combination that's one of next winter's big trends - nice try, but it's not going to fly. A four ply at a party? Norman Lamont would probably be more fun. Luckily Ververs had some fresh ideas. Like Descartes hammering away at algebraic equations, Vevers pummels his leather into some impressively supple shapes. The 1960s inspired boxy coats with trompe l'œil collars, pockets and half belts at the back were a neat proposition. They looked clean, modern - and presumably without all that real hardwear they should be lighter. Those lasered "lacy" leather black shifts with twinkling crystals weren't lacking in drama either - perfect uniform for the inevitable vampy but doomed double agent in the forthcoming James Bond, Skyfall. It would have been good to see a bit more colour though. As Miuccia Prada said back in Milan: "black - good for five minutes but then it gets boring." But the back-bone - and entire skeleton, plus most of the muscle and flesh - of Loewe are its beautifully made accessories, and these are Vevers' real strength. Jewelled belts, intricately sculpted wedge sandals (some of the most striking shoes of the season so far) and that Amazona bag, already a classic, reconfigured in squashy, buffalo and calf leathers.