N.Y.C. Restaurateurs Voice Anger Over Health Inspections There were no pitchforks. No guttering torches. And no heads on pikes. But there was an abundance of passion, and no little agita, on Wednesday afternoon when dozens of restaurateurs descended on City Hall to vent their anger about the letter-grading system inaugurated 19 months ago by the New York City health department to promote food safety. The average food-safety visit "feels like a criminal raid and not an inspection," said Dimitri Kafchitsas, who heads a group of 1,000 restaurants in New York City. There is a lack of sensitivity. The City Council speaker, Christine C. Quinn, had called a hearing to respond to what she said was "a wave of complaints" from restaurant operators about the A, B and C grades. She revealed the results of a recent survey, a questionnaire posted on the Council's Web site to seek restaurateurs" opinions. The survey had drawn some 1,300 completed submissions, mostly from the disgruntled. "A majority of restaurateurs that earned an A said that the letter-grading system was poor," Ms. Quinn said. This isn't about getting complaints from those who are getting B's and C's. One of those who filled out the questionnaire, Herb Wetanson, the owner of Dallas BBQ, said that "we spend all day in court trying to waive the fines," adding that the inspectors "come into our premises as enemies. It's wrong. Ms. Quinn said, "I am very concerned that the inspections are inconsistent and have become a revenue generator for the city at the expense of restaurant owners." She added, "Fines are up 145 percent since fiscal year 2006." Mayor Michael R. Bloomberg, anticipating criticism, on Tuesday called the letter-grading system a success, saying it had led to a decrease in food-borne diseases like salmonella. But the objections were certainly evident on Wednesday. More than 300 people filled the Council Chamber, and more than 50 had signed up to testify. Many said they took issue not only with the Department of Mental Health and Hygiene, but also with its inspectors, the inspection process and an increase in fines that they claimed was punitive. One complaint focused on the health tribunals at which restaurants appeal their inspection reports. The hearings "often feel like a game of Russian roulette - if you get in the wrong chamber, you lose," said Kevin O'Donoghue, a lawyer who represents restaurants and bars in the city. Many restaurant operators see the new inspection system as "punitive and shaming," said Andrew Rigie, executive vice president of the Greater New York City Chapters of the New York State Restaurant Association. He said the health department should focus "more on food-safety education and less on punitive fines and comparative ratings."