For the well-helled: British shoemakers find their feet A handful of traditional shoemakers in Northamptonshire are more than mere survivors in an industry crisis, writes David Nicholls. There is something particular about the way British shoes are made,' the shoe designer Tim Little explains. When you buy Italian shoes and take them out of the box they look the best they ever will. British shoes will get better with age. It seems aligned to the British personality: they are simple, honest and not flash. When Little started making shoes in 1997 he sought the expertise of Northamptonshire craftsmen. The area has been the heart of British shoe-making since the 15th century, and over the years has been a source of these 'simple, honest' shoes for everyone from the country's troops to its Royal family. But what Little found was an industry beleaguered by a national decline in manufacturing. According to the British Footwear Association, in the 20 years preceding Little's arrival in Northampton, employment in footwear manufacturing had dropped by nearly 60 per cent. One of the companies that Little worked with was Grenson, founded in 1886 by William Green, and considered one of the true 'establishment' shoe brands. Still, 'it was tired, had lost its way and had terrible designs,' Little recalls. Having worked in advertising, Little brought a flare for branding and a more fashionable eye to the makers of traditional country brogues. He became Grenson's creative director in 2004, just as the trend for 'heritage' brands began to take root in men's fashion. Gibson in nubuck, £445, Grenson (grenson.co.uk) Six years later Little bought the company from the entrepreneur Christian Purslow (the former managing director of Liverpool FC). Today Grenson is among a small handful of Northamptonshire-based shoemakers who are more than mere survivors of an industry in crisis. In many cases they are success stories, having consolidated their positions as makers of some of the finest (predominantly men's) shoes in the world. The revival of authentic British-made brogues has played a significant role in keeping the factories full. Venerable names including Tricker's, Church's and Crockett & Jones have carved out a niche for themselves at the top end of the international shoe market. 'We are all stronger than 10 years ago,' Little says. The best factories and brands have survived. Buckden Derby, £320, Church's (mrporter.com) Grenson produces three ranges, two of them made from start to finish in its Northampton factory, where it employs 50 people. Shoes start at £250 and go up to £440 for its GO range. Its lower-price G2 range is produced in India (from £175) and accounts for about two thirds of company sales. As well as making its own brand shoes, Grenson has collaborated with companies such as Barbour, Albam and Rag & Bone. Collaboration has also been key to the renewed success of the 130-year-old company NPS Shoes, which makes boots for the fire brigade, and at one point made Dr Martens. For the past three years it has worked with the online retailer Asos. 'The men who buy these shoes know what they are looking for,' Oliver Tezcan, Asos's buying manager for shoes, explains. They appreciate expensive details such as a Goodyear welt [a high-end construction method]. Sales have increased 500 per cent since the line was launched three years ago. Because of the volume of orders, Asos can sell the shoes for about £150. This collaboration, and another with the British youth clothing brand Jack Wills, have contributed to NPS's 20 per cent increase in output despite the global economic downturn. Its owner, Ivor Tilley, who bought the former cooperative in 2006, has been able to create 10 new jobs in this time. Ironically, it's not lack of demand or the whims of fashion that are the biggest threat to the Northampton shoemakers. Suede boot, £160, NPS Shoes for Asos (asos.com) 'The real challenge is a shortage of skilled labour,' Tilley says. Young people aren't flocking to work in the factories. Little agrees: 'Two people retired last year and we lost 50 years' worth of experience.' But for now at least, the factories are full and their 'simple, honest' shoes are still making their way to the feet of those who appreciate their provenance.