Expert taste test: Gennaro Contaldo on the best panettone for Christmas "At Christmas, panettone must be celebratory," says Contaldo, who is thrilled this Milanese sweet loaf is now so popular in Britain. "I love the fantastic smell, the 'wow" when you open the bag, and the delicious fruit that turns it from a sweet bread to an elegant dessert. It has to be moist and well risen, and the outer edge should be baked evenly. I turn the leftovers into bread-and-butter pudding, but love it most just dipped in coffee. We asked Gennaro Contaldo to try, in a blind taste test, 11 panettones available from supermarkets and online, and to choose his favourite three. Here are the results... Marks & Spencer Sugar Crusted £15 for 1kg A good rise, wonderfully buttery, and dotted with big bits of peel. It isn't a traditional look but I like it. It's been baked with heart, and the taste reminds me of home. Machiavelli Classico £13.50 for 1kg (machiavellishop.co.uk) This smells of Christmas. The fruit is nice and the whole thing has been baked to a perfect colour. Again, this one is not too sweet, which I like. "Let's Cook Italian," by Gennaro Contaldo, is published by Pavilion at £20