Silvia Killingsworth: Prospect in Fort Greene Review: The New Yorker The steady gentrification of Fort Greene has reached its apex: there is, finally, a very good restaurant a short walk from BAM and the Barclays Center. A few blocks away, there is also a "Sandwich Society," with fifteen-dollar seasonal sandwiches. The existence of the latter may seem to some an abomination, but, if it means we get to keep the former, let's call it a necessary evil. Prospect, on a well-trafficked stretch of Fulton Street, was opened last fall by two New York natives, Alan Cooper and Stephen Cohen, who has worked as a beverage director at Hearth and helped open the wine bar Terroir. Their co-owner and executive chef, Kyle McClelland, formerly of Caviar Russe, brought along his chef de cuisine, Vinson Petrillo. The low-lit dining room is inviting: serene blue walls, gray leather banquettes, dark wood floors. If you sit at the marble chef's counter overlooking the brightly lit white-tile kitchen, you'll feel like a judge on a cooking show. The cuisine is described as "Modern New American," which basically means whatever McClelland and Petrillo want it to - there's a tasting menu that is driven half by the day's official menu and half by whim. Recently, it included a course of yakitori-grilled Boston mackerel, complete with head and tail, and forty-day dry-aged bluefin tuna, to be plucked from the plate with takeout chopsticks. Some starters are familiar - lettuces, pickled beets, charred octopus - while others are more high-concept: spring-pea-and-garlic-milk soup topped with froth, or shelled snow crab stacked with uni, avocado, and assorted microgreens (occasionally from Brooklyn rooftop farms). A Hudson Valley foie-gras terrine was perfectly cool and buttery, but, paired with spring strawberries, rhubarb, and pine nuts, it came disconcertingly close to a dessert. A consistent hit is the spinach-and-ricotta gnudi, with candied Sicilian pistachios, micro sage, and a brown-butter sauce so tarted up with lemon it was impossible not to lick the bowl. And, for the best rack of Colorado lamb this side of the Rockies, look no further than the lamb two ways, grilled and roasted, resting on a swipe of smoked yogurt, with alfalfa sprouts, muscat grapes, morels, and amaranth grains. The design touches are quirky and charming: a wall made of reclaimed wood from the old Coney Island boardwalk, a chalkboard in the bathroom, and a series of found black-and-white snapshots of trios of early-twentieth-century women (they're from the private collection of the sommelier's father, who nicknamed them the Three Graces). Prospect has all the ambition of some of the city's best restaurants; the only thing lacking is pretense. (Open Mondays through Fridays for dinner, Saturdays for lunch and dinner, and Sundays for brunch and dinner. Entrées $21-$31.) ♦