Pint to pint: The Cross Keys, Thixendale It's an unexpected place to find a pub, never mind a thriving one. Thixendale is an isolated hamlet of maybe two dozen houses tucked into a deep niche of the Yorkshire Wolds. At the spectacular confluence of six valleys - David Hockney has repeatedly painted three adjacent trees in one of them - it takes some finding whether you arrive by car or, as many do, by foot. Behind a white façade as simple as a child's drawing - four windows with a door in the middle - the single, L-shaped room of the Cross Keys is a convenient resting point for hardy souls stalking the 79-mile Wolds Way. Dating from at least 1851, the pub lures a sprinkling of patrons at lunchtime (Thursday to Sunday only), but on a recent Saturday it was thronged. The first warm day of the year coincided with the Woldsman, a 50-mile saunter organised by the Long Distance Walkers" Association (LDWA). A mixture of LDWA members and less energetic visitors slaked their thirsts with resident Tetley's Cask (3.7% ABV) and guests Copper Dragon Golden Pippin (3.9% ABV) and Jennings Bitter (3.5% ABV). As might be expected at Yorkshire Camra's 2012 Pub of the Season, they were in good nick. Negotiating the ruddy-faced striders, we squeezed around the sole remaining table. Our neighbour, a young woman who was "only doing an eight-mile circular," stared at her great plate of chilli con carne (£5.50) fringed by a halo of buttered pitta bread. "Masses, isn't it?" she said, but minutes later her plate was clean. My wife went for a robust chestnut casserole (£6.25) while I had a pleasingly juicy steak and Guinness pie (£7.45) accompanied by a choice of peas ("garden or mushy?") and a hillock of chips. "These are walkers" quantities," I blurted to the landlord, Steve Anstey. "No, just Yorkshire," he replied. He conceded, however, that the menu was tailored to walkers" requirements. When we took over the pub 27 years ago, we started with healthy food and got it wrong. Walkers want something cheap and cheerful to fill them up. Those not engaged in a long-distance trek may prefer the sandwiches, generously filled with cheese (£3.55) or roast beef and ham (£4.25). The need to refuel does not mean that walkers lack discrimination. Today, much of their conversation revolved around food. The mere mention of the Welsh rarebit served at the Ramblers" Rest Café in Millington provoked sighs of delight from three adjoining tables. With closing time approaching (the pub shuts from 3-6pm), boots were laced and backpacks hoisted into place. Enjoy the next 25 miles. I've got to finish by 4am. It was a less demanding journey to see Mr Hockney's oaks, especially by car. The Cross Keys, Thixendale, Malton, North Yorkshire YO17 9TG (01377 288272)