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Best Books 2016
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Margaret Wise Brown Board Book Award and Educational Program ... See MoreSee Less
Margaret Wise Brown Board Book Award and Educational ProgramDeveloped by the Children's Book Committee (CBC), the Margaret Wise Brown Board Book Award honors the legacy of the late award-winning children's book author and her brilliant contributions to the...
✨NEW EPISODE!✨ Meet Janet Sumner Johnson, creator of THE RECESS GENIUS series, on #StoryMakers! Get a sneak peek at THE RECESS GENIUS 1: OPEN FOR BUSINESS, learn about idioms, & put your problem solving skills to use! 🍿Watch here: www.kidlit.tv/StoryMakersJanetSumnerJohnson
Stacy Ebert ... See MoreSee Less
Thanks so much for having me! I loved being on the show. :D
This #womenshistorymonth #picturebook list is so good, we couldn't resist reposting from @kidlitincolor!
We couldn't list ALL of our favorites for ✨#womenshistorymonth✨
but these picture/middle grade books all feature amazing girls and women. 👧🏾
📚Please share your favorite titles in the comments. ... See MoreSee Less
Celebrate #WomensHistoryMonth with KidLit TV & Biracial Bookworms! Here's our list of TOP PICTURE BOOK BIOGRAPHIES for Women's History Month to share with young readers at home & in classroom libraries!
Click: www.kidlit.tv/top-picture-books-for-womens-history-month/
Bank Street Library Reach Out and Read HarperKids Books Bank Street College of Education Charles R Smith Jr Charlot Kristensen Illustration Penguin Random House Tracey Baptiste, Author Tonya Engel Foster ... See MoreSee Less
Love this!❤
On The LOOK OUT for Kids' Books SPRING 2023! - KidLit TV ... See MoreSee Less
On The LOOK OUT for Kids' Books SPRING 2023! - KidLit TVThe Soaring '20s are back with a Spring 2023 Showcase! • Watch these FUN How-To videos! • Greenhouse Effect... Read more »


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Blogging is hard work you guys. Who knew?
The first thing you think of when you read a food blog is, well, the food. But there's a lot more that goes into blogging than just making food. You have to be able to sit down and write something, and you want it to be written well enough that someone will want to read it. Being able to write for an audience and have your writing be relatable and engaging is a challenge of it's own. I definitely don't want to be responsible for any eye-roll-induced headaches.
You also want to be able to photograph your food, and photograph it well enough that the food will look appealing and will make people want to make it themselves. Beyond having your food look nice in a picture, it should taste great too. I would never want to recommend a recipe I don't stand behind. I could make a beautiful looking meal that tasted terrible, and no one would know until they tried to make it themselves. But what would be the point of blogging about food that isn't any good? I want to share recipes with you that you'll love and that you'll want to make for your family and friends and keep on file to make again and again in years to come.
There's also a certain amount of pressure, probably self imposed, but also probably better for the blog, to post unique and original recipes. I'd rather share something interesting, something that gives me bragging rights, than to post a recipe I copied word for word and ingredient for ingredient from someone or somewhere else. Every once in a while a recipe is so good that tweaking would be completely unnecessary, such as the Aunt Sassy Cake that was my very first post, and of course when I find such a recipe I definitely want to share it with you. For the bulk of my posts though, the meat and potatoes if you will, I want to be able to say, "Why yes I did think this up all on my own, thankyouverymuch."
Over the 15+ years I've been cooking, I've learned enough to be completely confident toying with recipes to put my own spin on them. I think that most home cooks feel more comfortable making a savory meal their own than changing baking recipes. With a savory meal you can toss in a dash of this, a sprig of that, a splash of this other thing, and if you have a little experience and comfort with it, you'll usually end up with something good, and sometimes something great. This makes cooking more exciting, and what keeps me wanting to get back in the kitchen to cook for myself and my husband.
When it comes to baking, it gets more complicated. Baking is about formulas and chemical reactions. It's about math and science. Flour, sugar, leavening, fat & liquid; when combined in the correct proportions, should result in a tasty end product. If you get the ratio wrong though, you can end up with something heavy and flat, or dry, or burnt, or falling apart, or tasteless, or bad tasting. I am no pastry chef, and I won't claim to be able to come up with a cake recipe from nowhere without needing at least a point of reference. I will say that I've been doing this long enough now that I'm comfortable toying with flavors and ingredients in my baking. If I have an idea in my head for a cake with a certain flavor, I try to find a similar recipe that's tried and true, and tweak it to try to make it my own.
When I dreamed up this cake I was thinking about cold weather, cocktails with friends, and the smells and flavors of the holidays. I was thinking of citrus and spice and a little nip of something to warm you up. I started by finding a recipe for an orange pound cake that I could convert. A bundt cakes tends to be slightly denser than a layer cake, so pound cake recipes usually translate well. Once I found a recipe that I thought would work well, I set to changing a few things to put my twist on it. I wanted to add a layered citrus flavor so I swapped some of the orange zest and juice for lemon. I also wanted a hint of warm homey spice, so I added some cinnamon and clove, some cardamom and bit of ginger for kick.
Well. Sometimes things don't always work out the way you expect them to. I'm not entirely sure what went wrong, but the first time around, this was a big ol' failure with a capital FAIL. The flavor of the cake was great, with the perfect levels of citrus and spice, but the cake itself was dry dry dry. Like a loaf of bread. The original recipe called for an orange simple syrup to be brushed on the cake as it came out of the oven. With a flat loaf-shaped pound cake it's easy to brush on a syrup and let it soak into the cake, but with a bundt the syrup would run down the sloped sides and puddle on the bottom. I skipped the syrup, assuming wrongly that it was added mostly to boost the orange flavor and not needed to add moisture. Beyond being dry, I also thought the cake was just a bit too sweet for my taste, and if I'd used the syrup it would have been even sweeter still.
I knew though, that the idea for the cake was solid, the flavors worked really well together, and the cake was actually really pretty to boot. So, rather than admit defeat and move on, I decided it was time to try, try again. The next evening after work I went back in for another round, zesting and creaming and sifting and mixing. I dialed down the sugar just a touch, and added a bit more liquid, boosting both the citrus juice and the buttermilk for flavor. I also think that while butter adds the best flavor, cakes baked with oil usually end up impossibly moist, so I increased the amount of fat just a bit and swapped some of the butter for oil. I've played with this recipe so much now that I consider it completely my own.
Boy did my determination pay off. I was definitely able to fix the dryness issue, and now the cake is perfectly moist with a tender bite. This cake has it all. Good looks. Great flavor. Perfect texture. The total package. The combination of citrus and spice is comforting and somehow nostalgic. Cold weather always makes me want citrus. There's something familiar and old fashioned about eating oranges shipped from warmer climates when the weather in the northeast is cold and windy. There is a reason that grocery stores start filling up with tangerines right around Christmas. This time of year you can usually start to find citrus married with spice too. Lemon and ginger tea, clove studded oranges, cinnamon sticks and citrus boiled on the stove to potpourri your home. Classic flavors people, now in cake form.
Then we have the whiskey glaze. The flavors of butter and whiskey drizzled over this cake is amazing. They marry incredibly well with the cold weather flavors of the citrus and spices, bringing to mind the flavors of a hot toddy. I used Bulliet rye, because that's what I had on hand, but it would be amazing with Bourbon too. It's easy to make, just a simple matter of melting some butter, mixing it with whiskey and whisking in confectioner's sugar until there are no lumps. I melted the butter in the microwave in a pyrex measuring cup, and mixed the glaze up in the same cup for easy pouring.
The one word of warning is that this glaze is seriously boozey. Three tablespoons of whiskey might not seem like much, but there's isn't much else to this so the alcohol is front and center. It isn't overwhelming since there's just a small amount of it on each bite, but it definitely is an "adult" addition to this cake. If you want this to be a more family friendly recipe, or if you don't like whiskey, skip it! A simple citrus glaze would be really great and just as easy- just whisk together some confectioners sugar and orange or lemon juice, maybe some zest too.
So go take some butter and eggs out of the fridge and let them come up to room temperature. Don't kid yourself. Don't stop yourself. You know you want to make this cake, so just give in and make it. It's delicious and perfectly moist, and it has whiskey on top. In a couple hours you're going to eat this cake, you're going to eat it real good. Like this:
Spiced Citrus Bundt Cake with Buttered Whiskey Glaze
finely grated zest of 3 lemons
2 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup peanut or vegetable oil
4 large eggs, at room temperature
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Buttered Whiskey Glaze (optional):
3 tablespoons good whiskey
3 tablespoon melted butter
1 1/4 cup confectioners' sugar, sifted
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease and flour a 10-12 cup bundt pan.
With the paddle attachment in an electric mixer, mix your citrus zests and sugar together on low for 3 minutes, or until the sugar is golden yellow and you can smell the citrus from across your kitchen. Add the soft butter and cream with the sugar for about 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy. On low speed, add the oil and then the eggs, one at a time, until just combined.
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices. In another bowl, combine the orange and lemon juices, buttermilk, and vanilla. Add the flour and buttermilk mixtures alternately to the batter, beginning and ending with the flour. Pour batter into pan and tap on the counter to even the batter and remove air bubbles. Bake for 50 minutes to an hour, until a cake tester comes out clean.
Allow cake to cool for an hour or more before turning out onto a cooling rack. To make the glaze mix the melted butter and whiskey together in a small bowl. Whisk in confectioner's sugar and continue to whisk until combined and free of lumps. If too thick, you can add a few more drops of whiskey to thin it for easy pouring. Pour over the top of the completely cooled cake and allow the glaze to dry before serving.

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Two Northern California Real Estate Investors Agree toPlead Guilty to Bid Rigging at Public Foreclosure Auctions
Investigation Has Yielded 22 Plea Agreements to Date
Two northern California real estate investors have agreed to plead guilty for their roles in conspiracies to rig bids and commit mail fraud at public real estate foreclosure auctions in northern California, the Department of Justice announced.
The felony charges were filed today in the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of California in San Francisco, against Lydia Fong and Matthew Worthing, both of San Francisco.
According to court documents, Fong and Worthing conspired with others for various lengths of time between October 2009 and November 2010, not to compete against one another, but instead to designate a winning bidder to obtain selected properties at public real estate foreclosure auctions in San Francisco County. Worthing was also charged with participating in a similar conspiracy in San Mateo County, Calif. from September 2010 until January 2011. Fong and Worthing also were charged with conspiracies to use the mail to carry out a scheme to fraudulently acquire title to selected properties sold at public auctions.
"The collusion taking place at these auctions eliminated competition from the marketplace and allowed the conspirators to profit from the financial distress of others," said Acting Assistant Attorney General Sharis A. Pozen in charge of the Department of Justice's Antitrust Division. "The division will continue to pursue the perpetrators of these fraudulent schemes so they are held accountable for their actions."
"Fraudulent bid rigging and other anticompetitive activities at foreclosure auctions by conspirators are illegal and unfair to individuals who are forced to sell and legitimate buyers looking to purchase homes in our communities," said FBI Special Agent in Charge Stephanie Douglas of the San Francisco Field Office. "We continue to work closely with our partners at the Antitrust Division to identify and bring to justice those who engage in this type of activity."
The department said that the primary purpose of the conspiracies was to suppress and restrain competition and to make and receive payoffs in order to obtain selected real estate offered at San Mateo and San Francisco Counties public foreclosure auctions at non-competitive prices. When real estate properties are sold at these auctions, the proceeds are used to pay off the mortgage and other debt attached to the property, with remaining proceeds, if any, paid to the homeowner.
Each violation of the Sherman Act carries a maximum penalty of 10 years in prison and a $1 million fine for individuals. The maximum fine for the Sherman Act charges may be increased to twice the gain derived from the crime or twice the loss suffered by the victim if either amount is greater than the $1 million statutory maximum. Each count of conspiracy to commit mail fraud carries a maximum sentence of 30 years in prison and a $1 million fine. The government can also seek to forfeit the proceeds earned from participating in the conspiracy to commit mail fraud.
The charges today are the latest cases filed by the department in its ongoing investigation into bid rigging and fraud at public real estate foreclosure auctions in San Francisco, San Mateo, Contra Costa and Alameda Counties, Calif. To date, as a result of the investigation, 22 individuals, including Fong and Worthing, have agreed to plead or have pleaded guilty.
The ongoing investigation into fraud and bid rigging at certain real estate foreclosure auctions in northern California is being conducted by the Antitrust Division's San Francisco Office and the FBI's San Francisco office. Anyone with information concerning bid rigging or fraud related to public real estate foreclosure auctions should contact the Antitrust Division's San Francisco Office at 415-436-6660, visit www.justice.gov/atr/contact/newcase.htm or call the FBI tip line at 415-553-7400.
Today's charges are part of efforts underway by President Barack Obama's Financial Fraud Enforcement Task Force. President Obama established the interagency Financial Fraud Enforcement Task Force to wage an aggressive, coordinated and proactive effort to investigate and prosecute financial crimes. The task force includes representatives from a broad range of federal agencies, regulatory authorities, inspectors general and state and local law enforcement who, working together, bring to bear a powerful array of criminal and civil enforcement resources. The task force is working to improve efforts across the federal executive branch, and with state and local partners, to investigate and prosecute significant financial crimes, ensure just and effective punishment for those who perpetrate financial crimes, combat discrimination in the lending and financial markets and recover proceeds for victims of financial crimes. For more information on the task force, visit www.StopFraud.gov.
**The fraud charge against Lydia Fong referenced in this press release was subsequently dismissed on the government's motion.**


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Chicas y Chicos,
Señorita Vino is traveling to the mother country this week (that would be Peru). In the spirit of the journey, here's a re-post of a piece on which wines to pair with Peruvian food.
Happy eating and I'll be back soon!
If Peruvian cuisine were a movie star, she'd be stalked by paparazzi, grace the covers of fashion magazines, and receive an audience with the Pope. Ah, but if wine were her consort, what lucky devil would have the privilege of escorting her on the red carpet?
Ever the match-maker, Señorita Vino recently had the privilege of selecting wines to go with various Peruvian-style dishes prepared by Peruvian chef Renzo Pinillos Luck. Here, for your pairing pleasure, is what we created:
1. Aperitif – Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace Reserve. Alsace, France
Think of this sparkling wine as a palate cleanser. The elegant little bubbles in this fruity, dry wine from France's Alsace region set the stage for a rich and varied menu.
2. Butifarra (Peruvian Chicken Breast Sandwich) and 2010 Phebus Torrontes. Salta, Argentina.
Butifarras are usually served with pork, but this genteel take on a street food classic went beautifully with with the citrusy Torrontes from one of Argentina's famed wine growing regions. The crisp, stainless-steel fermented dry white complemented the creaminess of the chicken salad filling. ¡Delicioso!
3. Triple White Bread Sandwich with Avocado, Egg, and Tomato and 2009 Harbor Front Chardonnay. Monterey, Calif.
Tropical fruit aromas such as pineapple, with a splash of orange, brought the tanginess of the tomato and the butter of the avocado to life on this Latin-American twist on the club sandwich.
4. Cheese and Fruit Platter with Papa a la Huancaina and 2009 Bougrier 'V' Vouvray. Loire Valley, France.
A creamy white wine with a hint of sweetness, this Loire Valley classic displays some minerality, which is characteristic of the soil from this world-renowned grape growing region. The slight residual sugar in the wine balances the salty cheeses, and at the same time it complements the fruit. The Vouvray's creamy flavor helps tame the slight kick of the ají amarillo in the huancaína sauce, which is poured over boiled potatoes.
5. Pionono with Dulce de Leche, Strawberries, Almonds and Chocolate and Rivata Brachetto Piemonte. Piedmont, Italy.
Sí, chicas – they make piononos in various Latin American countries, but the Peruvian version features dulce de leche and good-for-you treats such as fresh strawberries and almonds, which are packed with 'good' fats. It's a guilt-free dessert. Kind of. Because of the pionono's high sugar content, I paired it with a sweet sparkling wine from Italia. Just enough sweetness to complement the dessert without making you feel like you've devoured the sugar bowl. And the bubbles help cleanse the richness of the dessert, leaving you with a fresh palate.


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Last Sunday afternoon I went to the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia to see the fall colors. I picked a good day for a visit because this is what I saw.
Autumn colors are everywhere.
Sometimes it isn't necessary to say too much about your subject. The scenery is simply perfect.


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Change the Timing Belt on a 2.0L, 4 Cylinder Mazda Protege 2001 to 2004
This guide suggests how to change the timing belt about every {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} which has neither come off nor skipped badly, and also change the water pump located behind the timing cover and below the OHC (overhead cam) cover which both must be removed. The timing belt and its tensioner and idler must be removed (and install a new water pump unless it is new; how and why is explained.).
Do "not" rotate the crankshaft or cams while the timing belt is off or you will do severe damage as this is an interference engine.
This repair is rather difficult (patience, time and mechanics' tools are required, see things you'll need at the bottom of this article), but this can save you up to or over $1,000 if everything went right (that depends on not forgetting to replace or tighten or even accidentally breaking a bolt). You still have the expense of the parts up to $300 (from auto parts store, USA -- new: auxiliary belts, timing-belt plus the tensioner and idler pulleys and water pump) and probably upwards of $600 or more from a the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts dealer. Follow the steps carefully and double check all the removal, installation and reassembly steps including carefully tightening bolts -- checking and rechecking all work as you go.
- Obtain a manual, and check and it should have torquing instructions for bolts and compare their instructions to this and follow any recommendations about removal, installation and replacement instructions, pictures and diagrams that may be helpful. The owner/operator guide omits such repairs. The factory Mazda, OEM, repair manuals do not explain in detail for a beginner and advise use of unnecessary tools. (The tools needed will be mentioned in each step.) Check the manuals and see which of these cars used this same engine -- some up to 2004.
- Caution: Use the "smallest workable ratchet, breakover wrench and/or cheater leverage extension" correctly to not over tighten (over torque) bolts and avoid breaking off a bolt or screw (more detail in the "Warnings Section").
- You actually might have to remove the engine to extract a broken bolt when you do the reassembly if you break off a screw or bolt in a tight spot for instance.
- Avoid engine damage from the timing belt breaking or slipping, or the tensioner pulley or idler pulley locking up (seizing) or the timing belt skipping one or more cogs on a sprocket causing valve timing problems and possibly breaking valves, pistons and/or the engine cylinder (block):
- Change the timing belt, timing belt tensioner and its idler pulley.
Caution: this is an interference engine meaning that the valves and pistons will come into contact, interfere and damage or ruin the engine in case (if) the timing belt were to break or slips on cam(s) sprockets or the crankshaft sprocket (more detail in the "Warnings Section").
- Change the timing belt, timing belt tensioner and its idler pulley.
- Understand the numbering of the cylinders and label the spark plug cables and cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4 from left to right but the other end is not that easy and carefully pry and get the cables off their spark plugs.
- Check your manual for firing order which will be 1, 3, 4, 2 or such for 1993--1997 (verify this carefully) and 1, 4, 3, 2 or such for after 1998 for how they plug onto the coil pack or distributor on older models.[Storer, J, and Haynes, John H, (1999, 2001), Mazda 626 and MX6 Ford Probe Repair Manual, ISBN 1-56392-440-4]
Caution: Disconnect the negative battery terminal so your engine can not be accidentally turned or started in error, you must remove the spark plugs before doing dangerous work.
- Drain all the coolant from the engine and keep it to use again or dispose of it legally; no matter how little.
- Remove both of the accessory belt(s) for the alternator and power steering, etc:
- The older models with two belts have lock bolts on the tensioner bolts that must be loosened before you can turn the long tensioner bolt. You will need to loosen the lock bolts a turn or more and then loosen the tensioner a good number of turns until you can get enough slack to remove the belts.
- The older models with two belts have lock bolts on the tensioner bolts that must be loosened before you can turn the long tensioner bolt. You will need to loosen the lock bolts a turn or more and then loosen the tensioner a good number of turns until you can get enough slack to remove the belts.
- Remove the bolts holding the power steering pump by unbolting the 3 bolts to release the power steering pump bracket from the engine (12mm and 14mm), but without opening or unsealing the power steering hoses or you will need to drain it and refill it when finished.
This will help get some working space, where it is difficult to loosen and tighten the lock bolt on the power steering tensioner with a combination wrench (14mm) even by switching ends of the wrench. Do not pry belts off or on.
- Loosen the long bolt of alternator pivoting bracket on the alternator belt; so it will allow the adjustable accessory to pivot as tension is released, loosen the tensioner enough to remove the belt. The older models do have two flat belts (not v-belts) and the newer models probably have a single serpentine belt.
- Do not pry or force the belts to get them off; you will probably need it all loosened even more to get the new tighter belts on anyway.
- Follow serpentine belt instructions in your operator manual and see their diagram for that kind of belt, if so equipped on newer models.
Removing spark plugs, harmonic pulley, valve cover
- Remove two short 10mm bolts (all bolts should be hex-head, unless some newer models use Torx/Star bolt heads) holding the power steering hose on where it crosses the valve cover and work the hose toward the left out of the way for removing the valve cover in a later step. One of the 10mm bolt that will be removed later was covered (hidden) but is now "found" under that hose.
- Remove spark plugs use a spark plug socket with a rubber grommet inside the socket so that it helps to lift plugs them out of the deep access ports. Or you could get them up from the ports if you find a way to use a piece of hose inserted snugly over each spark plug after each is unscrewed.
- Do this carefully to keep from breaking or dropping the spark plugs especially if you want to reuse them.
- Prevent dirt, trash or any screws (or ceramic-glass pieces if you broke a spark plug) from falling into the cylinders any of which could cause very serious damage to the engine.
- Loosen the harmonic pulley (but do not remove it at this time) retainer bolt (21mm, 13/16 inch) but keep it in but "finger-tight" (snug). You use a small but powerful impact wrench to loosen it.
- Consider using the power of the starter motor (only with the spark plugs taken out -- not holding the wrench by hand or foot).
With the spark plugs out, you would then reconnect the battery for just the next few moments to cause a very little "bump" of the starter motor by a momentary bump of a "remote push-button starter switch" or by wiggling the ignition switch to "nudge and thump" the pulley bolt a very small amount (bump) while a socket wrench (not held by hand or foot) is lodged onto the bolt as explained below.
Caution: do not hold the wrench by hand if you are power bumping it loose with the starter motor. To do that position a breakover wrench with about 2.5ft (75cm) cheater pipe (like 1 or 1.5 inch steel conduit tubing) extending it and positioned at about a 45 degree angle down toward the front of the car to be held firmly against the floor or earth, blocked in place with large stones, or by being inserted in an opening of a concrete block and blocked in and about by heavy toolboxes to keep the cheater from sliding out or from side to side -- but no hands or feet trying to hold it.
Bump the ignition switch (turn momentarily) to make starter motor "bump."
Then see whether it loosened the bolt--but if not then check that its still on correctly and lined up and try it again. It may loosen on the first two or three tries, when it loosens enough you'll probably hear a something like a little "zinging/whizzing" sound. So don't have loud music/talk, etc. -- beware, aware.
Caution: Disconnect the negative battery terminal again after this technique so your engine can not be accidentally "bumped" or turned away from TDC by the starter motor in error.
Timing marks, align timing, accessory belts,
- Barely loosen (break loose) each of the 11 bolts (10mm) connecting the OHC (overhead cam) valve cover to the engine. Loosen the 9 bolts around the edge of the cover that connect it to the block (one in on the very end). Two of those 10mm bolts are upon the cover with one about 3 times longer and (it was covered up by that power steering hose) and the one in the center is about 4 times longer than the ones around the edges. Once all are just loosened then finish removing them.
- Remove the OHC cam valve cover which is necessary to access the timing belt, the top of the timing belt sprockets, and the cam timing marks.
- Do not turn the engine using the cam timing sprockets or their retaining bolts, or by pulling on the timing belt. The engine should be easy to turn with a socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt since the spark plugs are out and all pressure is released.
- Align the timing marks on back of the cam sprockets lined up straight across, with a wrench on the retaining bolt of the harmonic pulley (Caution: with the negative terminal of the battery disconnected). aligned with the top of the engine head while at the same time you line up the timing mark on the crankshaft harmonic pulley pointing straight up at the same time as the cams are aligned (or use the crankshaft key and slot later in the process when the harmonic pulley is off).
- Caution: the TDC (top dead center) could be 180 degrees off of the correct TDC even when the crankshaft mark or crankshaft key is correctly pointing straight up ("It would then be at the top of the exhaust stroke."); so then align it as explained next.
Caution: check timing is at the correct TDC (top dead center of the compression stroke) and find the marks are on the back of the sprockets and align them with the edge of the engine head.
The older models have a distributor and you can remove the distributor cap to see if it is pointing at spark plug cable terminal number one (for cylinder number 1) when the mark on crankshaft pulley shows it is at TDC. If it points to the opposite side of the distributor then turn the engine slowly 360 degrees on the crankshaft to be back around to TDC ("top of the compression stroke").
Newer engines do not have a distributor and so the correct TDC can be found while the harmonic pulley timing mark is approaching TDC. This is done using the compression stroke air pressure measured in the "number one spark plug hole" by a "compression gauge" to know when the piston is on the compression stroke and then turning slowly and carefully to exactly the TDC as shown by the crankshaft and the cam sprockets timing marks. Compression pressure means that the piston in cylinder one was on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke which also comes to TDC.
- Required: securely place a "plastic/rubber" stop-block (you may use a bottle stopper from a wine bottle preferably "not real cork" which might crumble) to put it in place to jam the cam sprockets with the "rubber stop-block." Use the stop-block before releasing the tensioner pulley to remove the timing belt, or else when the timing belt is removed the cams will "turn" (in opposite directions) about two notches--pushed by the valve springs pressure off TDC of the cam lobes. Later before the timing belt is re-installed use two "open-end" wrenches or adjustable spanners for 1 inch (25.5 ~ 26mm) on the hex part of the camshaft (not on the sprocket bolt) to slightly nudge the sprockets back and forth (small wiggling) to get the stop block to hold both cam marks correctly aligned while the stop-block is between the two cam sprockets. So it holds both cams at the same time in TDC position (You may purchase a special stop-block made for this purpose if you prefer.).
- Work on level ground and block the wheels (so they won't roll) with bricks or wooden pieces about the size of a bricks. Put on the parking brake.
- Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts but leave them snug ("right side" as when you are seated in the car).
- Jack up that side of the car. Then use a jack-stand to support the car. Do not depend on the jack to support it. You will be removing the wheel adjacent to (next to) the pulleys only.
- Realize that later you will support the engine separately with a jack as explained when it is needed but you may need a different jack.
- Remove the plastic splash-guard cover under the engine which extends to cover the side of the wheel well. Watch your head.
- Support the engine securely but with just little/slight upward pressure with a "scissor jack" or "bottle jack" with a strong piece of wood (longer than a brick) to protect the engine from the jack. It should work under the air conditioner bracket which is massive on the older models. The engine being supported is because you will remove (not yet) the motor mount in steps when you get to it in a later step; that mount is between the top and lower halves of the timing-cover and is very much in the way of working on the accessory belts, timing belt and water pump.
- Remove the plastic top half timing-cover which is held on by 4 small bolts (10mm), with one near each corner. The two toward the firewall of the auto are difficult to reach and even to see. Use a short, small ratchet drive extension.
- Remove the "harmonic pulley bolt" (21mm) that you had loosened earlier and remove the pulley. You probably can wiggle and jiggle the pulley while start gently prying and pulling it off the crankshaft. If not, then you may need to use a steering wheel puller or similar puller.
- Put the bolt back in to hold the sprocket on and be sure the sprocket "key" is always kept in its slot. This was necessary to be able to remove the lower timing cover.
- Remove the retaining screws from the lower half timing cover (10mm). One screw is hard to see in the middle of the cover, right below the motor mount.
- Remove the lower timing cover carefully because you have to maneuver it to clear off of the sort of alignment pin-block (actually almost a little cube and is about 2cm) and is just above the crankshaft sprocket and fits into a place in the lower half cover but you can not see it until the cover is off.
Removing engine mount
- Caution: Be sure to also support the engine with a jack just putting a little pressure upward so you can prepare to remove the motor mount on the belt end of the engine.
- Begin removing the motor mount by unbolting the 7 bracket bolts (17mm = 11/16 inch) with a strong breakover wrench with a cheater pipe on its handle to get more leverage and remove an 8th bolt which is the longer bolt that passes through the middle of the lumpy looking metal-rubber mount also.
- Find the "seventh" bracket bolt if not yet removed which was uncovered when you lifted out the heavy lump-like middle part of the mount.
- Remove the huge, oddly shaped motor mount bracket carefully' from among the air conditioning hoses and power steering hoses by pulling them back "just a little," and yet do not damage the wiring and hoses.
- Remove the smaller "engine mount bracket" of the motor mount which is heavy duty steel and is still bolted to the engine block after you have removed the rest that was mounted to the fender area. You'll need the 17mm socket and a 3/8 inch ratchet with smaller cheater extension to loosen the bolt. 1/2 inch ratchet is hard to use between things in the tight areas. It is rather awkward to do.
Install New Timing Belt, New Tensioner, Idler, and the Water Pump
- Readying to remove the timing belt, you need to turn the timing belt tensioner pulley toward "counter-clockwise" with an Allen "el-shaped" hex tool that fits in a hole in the pulley to rotate it to be able to slip the belt off little by little.
- Turn (pivot) the timing belt tensioner pulley toward "clockwise" with the Allen hex wrench enough to take the tension off of the timing belt tensioner spring and then remove the spring with very long-nose-pliers.
- Remove the tensioner pulley by one bolt in the middle (14mm).
- Remove the "idler" pulley of the timing belt system (14mm).
- Remove the 4 or 5 water pump bolts which are hard to see -- (12mm) socket -- and a medium size ratchet (called 3/8 inch drive in the USA). Be careful because one bolt that is easier to see looks like it may be one to remove but its left of the correct one) and find and then loosen the water pump. Loosen it from the block by tapping it with a wooden block and a mallet hammer but if it does not come loose pretty easily -- check again for another bolt.
- Clean the engine block surface carefully where the water pump gasket will make contact for sealing well -- so carefully scrape off any pieces of stuck-on old gasket material corrosion, rust, or dirt to bare metal without gouging or roughing the metal.
- Put on the "new water pump"; follow instructions that came with it. Tighten 12mm bolts securely without over-tightening, ie: breaking one off. Seal the new gasket only onto the new pump with "gasket cement." Do not cement it onto the block. Put anti-seize grease on bolts. You can put an even coating of marine grease on the gasket after it is cemented onto the pump so it will not stick to the engine block.
- Or if you prefer to use a silicone gasket maker then apply a small even bead but not an excessive amount that could squeeze out and cause plugging/blockage of coolant passage ways in the engine or radiator.
- Install the "new timing tensioner" pulley and tighten its mounting bolt securely. Hook the new spring in the hole of the tensioner ear/tab and use the Allen wrench in the hole that is in the front surface of the tensioner pulley for that wrench to bring the spring clockwise to get the spring near and then hooked onto the pin that protrudes from the engine block just above the pulley.
- Install the new "idler pulley" and tighten the mounting bolt securely.
- Put on the "new timing belt"; follow instructions that came with it. (Like a 1 inch (25.5 ~ 26mm) open end wrench can be used to budge the cam slightly to get a cam timing mark back aligned while keeping the the stopper "jammed" (in to hold the sprockets) in place until you get the belt on and the tension spring on right. So, starting at the crankshaft sprocket place the belt a little more than halfway onto the sprocket and then going counter-clockwise making sure the belt is tightly against the idler pulley/roller as you slip the belt onto the cam sprockets and tight across between the cam sprockets when on both of them.
- Press the timing belt onto place while keeping the tensioner pulley out of the way using the Allen hex wrench toward counterclockwise for the pulley to be as far backed off as possible to allow the belt to slide on to the sprockets. While holding that hex wrench begin to work the belt in steps farther onto each sprocket until it is on all the way.
- With the Allen wrench in the hole in tensioner pulley for that purpose press it toward clockwise against the belt and press it in for a little tightening of the belt, and then release it slowly for the spring to bring it back into position.
- Remove the "stopper block" from the cams -- before you put on the top half-cover on the timing belt area.
- Hand rotate the crankshaft two times around using a wrench on the crankshaft sprocket bolt, then check to see that when the crankshaft key is aligned, then the two cam timing marks are still aligned as described earlier. Be sure one or both isn't off by one notch or something. If it not aligned properly then remove the belt, carefully realign all 3 marks and reinstall the belt, and double-check it again.
- Assemble parts mostly in reverse order of the removal and tighten bolts properly.
- Install "lower-half cover" of the timing belt and put the bolt and especially the one in the middle which is hard to see just below the motor mount bracket.
- Remove the big bolt for a moment from the crankshaft sprocket to then put on the crankshaft pulley.
- Put the harmonic crankshaft pulley on be sure the pulley key slot aligns on the slot and key of the crankshaft that must be aligned into the slot in the pulley. Put the big bolt back with the washer/disk and tighten it securely.
- Tighten and torque the harmonic crankshaft pulley bolt while you hold the pulley with a bar between bolts placed in the "puller bolt holes" of the pulley, or as best you can hold it without damaging it, and torque it to about {{safesubst:#invoke:convert|convert}} lbs..
- Install only the third part of engine mount (the smaller bracket) that bolts to the engine block (for now) -- because it will be partly covered by the timing covers. Use the large ratchet or medium sized ratchet (3/8 inch) with a cheater extension to tighten the motor mount bracket securely and also to reinstall the other parts of the motor mount later (before you remove the jacks).
- Reassembly is mostly in reverse order of the removal of course such as the bottom and then top half timing covers, the alternator belt, power steering bracket and belt, adjust the those belt tensions, put on OHC valve cover
- Install spark plugs with the spark plug cables in the correct order.
- After all the miscellaneous reassembly is done, now install the motor mount bracket securely with its 3 bolts and 2 nuts onto the car fender and the motor mount itself with the long bolt and nut and 2 nuts that attach it to studs on the part of the bracket that is attached to the engine block.
You will need to pull a little on the hoses and move the wiring around to work the big mount bracket into its place and yet not damage the wiring and hoses. It's tricky, so be patient.
- Replace the under engine/wheel well side cover and put on the wheel but re-tighten it after it is on the ground, later.
- Prepare to remove the engine supporting jack, by first verifying that the motor mount brackets and motor mount are installed and all the bolts are tightened, raise the car a little and remove the jackstand and lower the car, and remove wheel chock blocks. Almost finished.
- Remove the "radiator cap" and refill the radiator with coolant (note: some cars have a remote tank with a cap but no radiator-cap.) and then refill the coolant system and refill the overflow tank, bounce the car on the side where it is not on the jack and add more coolant; do that a few more times. Check for coolants leaks.
- Clear away any tools, etc. before starting the engine.
- Reconnect the battery negative cable.
- Check for coolant leaks, check all other fluids, and leave the radiator cap off temporarily to recheck so you can top-off the coolant level after starting the engine.
- Let it idle while finishing filling with coolant and put on the radiator cap, and be sure that the car is otherwise road worthy.
- This repair is involved (complicated). If you are not a fairly experienced mechanic, consider taking it to a shop -- or get good helper who will spend several hours actually working.
- It would take less time if one of you were experienced.
- It is important to remember where various sizes and lengths of bolts came from (go back in) and the tool that you had to use.
- Keep bolts together for each part and remember the tool(s) that you needed for the dis-assembly.
- Breakover wrench is used to "break loose" the tight bolts and to not break your ratchet instead.
- Put unused tools away to keep down clutter and confusion.
- Recalling how your fingers and a wrench barely fitted into tight spaces and how you maneuvered them for dis-assembly will help you reassemble in problem areas.
- Do not use this guide as your only reference. You may encounter issues or problems not covered in this article.
- If one of you has smaller hands (and/or longer fingers) to reach into tight spaces to insert screws and if the helper is pretty sure of how to do it -- all of that will help greatly.
- You should get a good repair manual with pictures to help you with this. It may not have very detailed instructions, but pictures and labeled parts in the pictures and their recommended order of the processes may be very helpful.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable and the spark plug cables at the spark plugs before putting your hands in dangerous places or doing any removal of moving parts or their covers or even brackets.
- You actually might have to remove the engine to extract a broken bolt if you break off a screw or bolt in a tight spot when you are tightening them.
- Do "not" rotate the crankshaft or cams while the timing belt is off or you will do severe damage as this is an interference engine.
- Caution: if you remove the spark plug cables completely then understand that firing order is "not" 1,2,3,4, but may be 1, 3, 4, 2 and so first appropriately number and label on or next to the "mixed up" ignition coil pack terminals (or distributor on older models) with the correct cable number -- and start replacing them at the correct terminal or plug on the coil pack/distributor.
- It is very important to be perfectly in that special order. Numbers may be formed or stamped on OEM equipment, but may not be on after market parts.
- Avoid breaking off a screw or bolt during reassembly by using small, medium and large ratchets correctly (use the smaller ratchet that will do the job to not over torque small and medium bolts) to get the parts tightened adequately -- but a broken bolt would have to be drilled (like hollowed out) and then an extractor tool used); so use the:
- 1/4 inch ratchet for small bolts (like 8, 9 or 10mm) to not break them off,
- 3/8 inch ratchet for medium sized bolts (12, 14 or 15mm) to not break those (consider using this one with a "1/4 inch adapter" for small bolts because the adapter may break before the bolt; you hope...),
- 1/2 inch ratchet for larger sized bolts (17mm, etc.) to adequately tighten but not break those (the ratchet names are what they are called in the USA).
- Decide if a torque wrench is desirable or necessary -- and it is recommended -- to more accurately tighten bolts (if you decide that you need that kind of help) to check the tightness without over tightening.
- 3/4 inch breakover ratchet would not be needed for this repair except "optionally" on the retaining bolt (21mm, 13/16 inch) on the harmonic crankshaft pulley.
- Why should you change the water pump when you change the timing belt and its pulleys ("unless" it were changed very recently) -- that's because the rubber seal of the water pump (as with the rubber timing belt and seals of the timing pulleys) gets brittle from engine heat, repeatedly heating and re-cooling and just getting old.
- Also, that water pump replacement (and timing pulley too) is because bearing grease dries out and the bearing locks up (seizes) if the water pump and timing belt pulleys are not changed periodically.
- There is no way to re-lubricate the bearing (sealed up and "permanently" lubricated) -- just waiting to fail (dry out, burn out and lock up).
- Coolant (antifreeze) is poisonous to fish, unsuspecting animals and children because it looks, smells and tastes good, but it is lethal/deadly. It should be stored or disposed of properly as a hazardous chemical.
Things You'll Need
- Stop-block for the cam sprockets
- New timing belt with matching new tensioner and idler pulley
- New water pump, gasket and gasket cement
- New accessory belts
- Repair manual covering your car model, for this engine
- Small, medium and large ratchets (called 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch in the USA)
- Torque wrench to more accurately tighten bolts (if you need that kind of help)
- Sockets, not many deep sockets except to reach odd places and on the motor mount stud (17mm, 11/16inch)
- Spark plug socket (16mm, 5/8inch)
- Short (as needed), medium plus longer extensions (for reaching motor mount bolts)
- Adapters for ratchets, extensions, and sockets as desired or needed
- Smaller, medium and larger "cheater" extensions for handles of breakover and/or ratchets
- Breakover socket wrench for "breaking loose" bolts and nuts (and protect your ratchets from breaking)
- Cheater extension for breakover wrench handle
- Penetrating oil for loosening bolts and nuts
- Compression gauge (for newer cars without a distributor)
- Wheel blocks (sometimes called wheel chocks)
- Anti-seize grease for bolt reassembly
- Car jack and jack stand
- Scissor jack or bottle jack for engine support
- Anti-seize grease for water pump bolt-threads
Related Articles
- Change a Timing Belt
- Replace a 1997 Ford Escort ( 2.0L & 1.9L) Timing Belt and Tensioner Replacement
- Install a Water Pump on a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 2.4 Liter
- Retrofit Air Conditioning in Cars to New Refrigerant
- Tell if a Timing Belt Tensioner Is Bad


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Native Plants
Q. Who is Mr. Smarty Plants?
A: There are those who suspect Wildflower Center volunteers Nan Hampton, Jimmy Mills and Barbara Medford to be the culpable and capable parties. Yet, others think staff members Damon Waitt, Joe Marcus and Philip Hawkins might play some, albeit small, role. You can torture us with your plant questions, but we will never reveal the Green Guru's secret identity.Support NPINHelp grow the Native Plant Information Network by giving to the Plant Database Fund or subcribing to Wildflower magazine.
Ask Mr. Smarty Plants is a free service provided by the staff and volunteers at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center.
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text:
Safety Of All-Metal Hip Implants Under US Scrutiny
(Reuters) - As concerns mount over the safety of metal-on-metal hip implants, U.S. health regulators are seeking advice on how best to minimize risks for the more than 500,000 patients who have received the devices.
All-metal artificial hips were developed to be more durable than traditional implants, which combine a ceramic or metal ball with a plastic socket. Johnson & Johnson is the biggest manufacturer of the all-metal devices, and other device makers include Zimmer Holdings Inc and Wright Medical Group .
J&J recalled its ASR all-metal hip implant in 2010, and has since set aside $3 billion to cover legal costs related to patient claims. Recent studies have shown such products may fail at higher rates than their predecessors, and may leach high concentrations of metal ions into the bloodstream.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration will convene outside experts for a two-day meeting starting on Wednesday, asking for guidance from doctors, manufacturers, researchers and the public on how to monitor patients who get the implants or need them replaced.
The discussion will not address whether to impose more rigorous testing standards on companies who already make the devices, the agency said in documents posted ahead of the meeting.
The FDA also does not plan to ask for guidance on changing review requirements that must be met before the implants can be sold in the United States, or whether to remove existing implants from the market.
But these are some of the key questions for researchers like Art Sedrakyan of Weill Cornell Medical College, who has written extensively about the safety issues with the all-metal hip implants. He believes the larger type of metal-on-metal hip implants should no longer be used.
Having a lot of alternatives to these implants, it's just very clear that the potential harms outweigh any benefits that are possible to imagine, he said in an interview.
The FDA said about 400,000 Americans get a hip replaced or repaired each year in order to make it easier to walk and to alleviate pain from joint problems, including arthritis.
In 2010, about 27 percent of those implants were all-metal, a decrease from about 40 percent in 2008, the FDA said, likely due to the increased attention on the devices' safety problems.
In April, British health regulators advised surgeons to stop using a type of metal-on-metal hip implant because of the high risk for patients needing repeat surgery compared to other devices. They have also told doctors to conduct life-long tests for some patients who get all-metal implants.
The warning was issued for implant cups or heads made by Finsbury Orthopaedics, a unit of J&J, used in combination with femoral stems made by Stryker Corp.
The devices can produce debris that can leak chromium and cobalt ions into the blood, causing health problems and potential damage to chromosomes.
The FDA's meeting follows a May 2011 order from the agency requiring manufacturers of metal-on-metal implants to collect more safety data on the devices.
But a recent article in the New England Journal of Medicine, co-authored by Sedrakyan, highlighted the delays in the studies. By mid-June, over a year since the order, the FDA and companies had agreed on study design for less than a quarter of the devices.
© Copyright Thomson Reuters 2023. All rights reserved.


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The unhealthy remnants of McChickens past coat some of my most cherished adolescent memories and that always makes me loath to criticize the McEmpire.
My thoughts on it have always been, it's going to kill you if you go in too deep. But in the end, as is the case with so many things, it's your choice. And it's not like there hasn't been ample warning.
An alarmingly irradiated looking red-head has been their spokesperson since the dawn of time and, of course, there's their abysmal reputation for ingredients. How many restaurants have been linked so directly to the destruction of the rain forest and the creation of the stereotypical Fat American? I mean, McDonalds has a lot of issues to overcome— why should I add to the heap?
With a 15-second radio ad that was quickly pulled, I finally found cause.
It starts as so: "You could get a museum tour for $5."
A woman playing the role of a museum guide then says, "There were dinosaurs and then there weren't …OK, then, exit through the gift shop."
The narrator then returns to tell listeners they could spend their $5 on a value meal with a sandwich, fries and drink, "at participating restaurants."
It's supposed to be funny and light, I suppose. But museums are taking umbrage and so am I. After all, we are in dark times.
This is the era of ignorance and celebrity politicians. This is the time in history where people aren't celebrated for their skills, but rather their ability to drag 15 second attention spans in their direction — let tomorrow be damned.
It's a time where many actually think it's OK to say that they don't know about culturally significant moments in history, because it happened before they were born. For the record, the latter is a comment I've been told at an alarming frequency, in reference to movies, music and history.
Now not to get too carried away, but here's a line many must have forgotten — when you don't know your history you're doomed to repeat it. Do you really want to repeat the '90s? Wait… we're already doing that, but it gets worse the further back you go and we need to keep an eye on all the moments that were.
You know who has a really good grasp on what those times mean, and how they shaped who we are today?
The women and men at the museum.
If you want to know about the migrant workers who built this city, you know who you should ask? The women and men at the museum.
If you want to know how racism twisted the culture of the countryside long before most people knew it existed, go to the museum.
If you want to be versed on the importance of agriculture, the railroad the or even the Second World War draft, do you know where you can go?
The museum.
The women and men there are the keepers or our most valuable assets — our shared memories and the permanent fixtures of the times we'd be remiss to forget.
So if you are trying to figure out how to spend that fiver, consider taking a moment to unplug from the trite network of now and 15-seconds-from-now and consider communing with the keepers of the permanent, ineffable and unquantifiable assets that represent all we have been and can be.
It's much more worthy of your Mclovin' than the McEmpire.
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text:
The Favourite Screenplay
In the early 18th century, England is at war with the French. Nevertheless, duck racing and pineapple eating are thriving. A frail Queen Anne occupies the throne, and her close friend Lady Sarah governs the country in her stead while tending to Anne's ill health and mercurial temper. When a new servant, Abigail, arrives, her charm endears her to Sarah. Sarah takes Abigail under her wing, and Abigail sees a chance to return to her aristocratic roots.
Read Screenplay - Scriptment
Read Screenplay
Deborah Davis
Tony McNamara
Waypoint Entertainment


text:
It's often surprising how messy a few weeks' accumulation of newspapers and recycled containers can be. Uncontained, newspapers can drift around the garage; glass and cans for recycling can quickly overflow undersized containers.
Designate an area:
The trick is to designate a recycling area that includes containers with much greater capacity than you will normally need. Then, when you fail to recycle in a timely manner, you won't be stuck with a huge mound of clutter. The first step is to identify the recycling area in your garage. For most homes, the best area is right next to the door leading into the garage. The area needs to be large enough for newspaper, glass, and metal recycling containers.
Next, you need to choose appropriate containers. Most municipalities require that you separate recyclables into paper products, glass and plastics, and metals. Think about how much of these materials you collect between recycling pickup days. Check what your town requires, then pick up appropriate containers that provide enough room for you to miss one recycling pickup. To make things easier, choose different colors of containers and label them in large letters (unless your municipality already requires that certain colors be used for different recyclables). If you're willing to spend the money, you can buy premade recycling centers, with bins that are contained in their own framework. The top-of-the-line structures have lids and include bins that tilt out. But you can certainly make do with separate bins as long as they are the right size. For a household with few people, you may need only shallow plastic tubs. For a family of four or more people, you may need small garbage cans.
More From Good Housekeeping
For more on organizing clutter, see Good Housekeeping's The Complete Clutter Solution


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Notes from the Nest: Arizona Cardinals vs. Dallas Cowboys
Game over
Cardinals win this one 12-7. What it lacked in offense it made up for in…ummm…defense?
Arizona now 2-0 on the preseason. Much to learn from and improve upon.
Time to head downstairs for all the postgame stuff. Thanks for reading.
1:40 left in fourth quarter
Facing a 3rd and 15, Tanney is picked off by Tony Jefferson. It's the sixth turnover of the day, and the second pick for Jefferson on the day. Return is to the Dallas 35, and that should just about do it.
1:58 left in fourth quarter
It's time for the two minute warning.
As of this moment, Tanney is leading a drive that has the Cowboys at the Arizona 45. You know as they say, you just can't stop Alex Tanney!
3:14 left in fourth quarter
Cardinals go three and out, punt leaves the Cowboys with teh ball at their own 18.
4:13 left in fourth quarter
Defense holds, albeit with help of a pretty terrible Alex Tanney. The punt goes for 47 yards, where Hawkins is just drilled while catching the ball. Personal foul, Arizona ball at the the 48.
5:07 left in fourth quarter
Kickoff sails into the end zone where the ball is downed, and the Cowboys will begin from their own 20. No doubt the Cardinals would feel better if the D can make a stand and preserve this lead. As for the fans? Some have started to head for the exits.
5:07 left in fourth quarter
Lindley dumps the ball to Ellington short of the end zone on third and goal, and Feely comes in and makes a 22-yard field goal. It's points, but Coach Arians will not be happy with the team's inability to find the end zone today.
12-7 Cardinals, by the way.
7:05 left in fourth quarter
A nice mix of Andre Ellington runs as well as passes by Lindley — the most recent to Charles Hawkins — has Arizona at the Dallas 5. Good looking drive for Big Red here, can they finish it off with a TD?
10:49 left in fourth quarter
Andre Ellington takes the ensuing kickoff out of the end zone…out of the back of the end zone…and shows some moves in getting the ball out to the 23. That's where Ryan Lindley and the offense will start this drive.
10:55 left in fourth quarter
And they've done it!
Cowboys get a five-yard TD pass from Alex Tanney to tight end Gavin Escobar, and now the score is 9-7 Cardinals in front.
Ladies and gentlemen, we have ourselves a football game!…that doesn't actually count.
End of third quarter
The quarter ends with the Cowboys facing a 2nd and 1 at the Arizona 38. They're driving, and in danger of being the first team to score on the Cardinals this preseason.
1:44 left in third quarter
Cards lose a challenge, Cowboys have a first down at their own 42.
5:48 left in third quarter
Zastudil's second attempt is also good, as this one is downed at the Dallas 11. That's where the Cowboys will take over before they inevitably find a way to give Arizona the ball back.
5:57 left in third quarter
Cards' drive stalls and punt is downed at the 1, but an illegal hands to the face penalty means Arizona will kick again. It's the team's third penalty, and this one hurts.
Well, as much as anything can hurt in a preseason game, but you know what I mean.
'10:21 left in third quarter
Defense forces a punt (sorry, not a turnover), and Tyrann Mathieu runs a long way for a short return. Arizona ball on the 27.
13:40 left in third quarter
Cardinals can't challenge a forward progress call, and now it's 3rd and 5 for the Cowboys on their 19. Good chance for an early defensive stand.
End of second quarter
Pass sails out of the end zone and then Feely is brought on for the field goal attempt. He's good from 40 yards (yeah, he makes the tougher ones), and the Cards lead this one 9-0 at the half.
:07 left in second quarter
Stanton hits Hawkins and the Cards are at the Dallas 22. Ball is spiked. Time for one more play before a FG attempt?
:21 left in second quarter
Well imagine that, a Cowboys turnover. Tony Jefferson picks off Orton's pass, and the Cards have the ball on their own 43.
:47 left in second quarter
Deep in Dallas territory Stanton throws a bad ball that is picked off at the Dallas four. At best, he's doing what he can to make sure Cards fans are comfortable with what's happening on the field. At worst, it was a terrible pass that cost the team points.
2:28 left in second quarter
Cowboys go three-and-out and punt it away. Cards take over with a chance to try and put some points on the board before the half. Can Stanton run the two-minute offense? We'll see.
3:48 left in second quarter
Drive stalls at the Dallas 12 and Feely pushes the short field goal right. So really, when you think about it, the kick was wrong. Dallas takes over and you kind of wonder about what's up with the kicker, especially after he struggled last week in Green Bay.
5:56 left in second quarter
We have our answer — an interception.
Facing a 3rd and 8, Kyle Orton is picked off by Jerraud Powers. Cards' ball at the Dallas 30.
6:34 left in second quarter
Stanton misfires on a couple passes before Jay Feely puts a 53-yard field goal through the uprights. Cardinals with a commanding 6-0 lead; how will the Cowboys turn the ball over on this drive?
7:19 left in second quarter
And what do ya know, refs rule that Stanton's hand was moving forward, which makes it an incomplete pass. Cards keep the ball, and we all got the joy of watching a big guy try to pick up a bouncing football. Win-win.
7:12 left in second quarter
Cardinals were driving but Drew Stanton is hit while releasing a pass. Ball bounces backwards (fumble?) and is recovered by Dallas' Kyle Wilber at the Arizona 43. Of course, he only recovered the ball after hilariously attempting to pick it up and run with it first. He failed at that.
Play is under review, as all turnovers are.
9:59 left in second quarter
Cowboys — and more specifically, Dez Bryant — have been destroying Arizona's defense. However, the receiver's latest reception results in him being stripped of the ball by Jerraud Powers, and just like that the Cardinals have their third turnover of the day. It's Arizona's ball at their own 24, with the second-team offense now in the game.
12:11 left in second quarter
Cards get a first down on a run but, in their hurry up offense, see three straight misfires in the passing game. Zastudil's punt is a good one, Dallas takes over at their own 30.
12:56 left in second quarter
Cardinals win the challenge! Hazah!
Fumble recovered at the four, which is where Carson Palmer and the offense will start from. Gotta think this is the QB's last series.
12:56 left in second quarter
Bruce Arians with a solid toss on his first challenge flag at UofP Stadium.
Dallas, driving down the field, sees Romo hit running back Lance Dunbar. He takes it down to the Arizona seven, where he appears to have fumbled the ball. If ruling on the field is overturned, Cards will have the ball and their second turnover of the day.
And from this perspective, call should be overturned.
End of first quarter
And I jinxed it. My bad.
Cards stall after a pass to Michael Floyd is fumbled and then a fourth and two toss to Rashard Mendenhall is low and dropped. Cowboys will take over at their own seven.
Fun seeing the team try to go for it on fourth; it's preseason, so who really cares. Still a bit disappointing, though.
1:51 left in first quarter
Cardinals are driving…yes, driving…and it's a beautiful sight. Some solid runs along with good passes from Palmer have the Cardinals facing a 2nd and 10 on the Dallas 15. Injured Cowboy gives us a break in the action, and now I feel is a good time to remind you that the Cardinals have not thrown a touchdown pass (to their own team) in University of Phoenix Stadium since their Week 6 loss to the Buffalo Bills last year.
It's been a while.
8:18 left in first quarter
Excellent pass to Larry Fitzgerald is negated by a holding penalty on Levi Brown.
Welcome back, Levi.
8:35 left in first quarter
Cardinals catch a break as Romo overthrows an open Dwayne Harris deep on third and short, and the punt leaves the Cardinals with the ball on their own 11.
10:16 left in first quarter
Cardinals whistled for a pair of penalties on a third down play that did not net the Cowboys enough yards. First down for them, ball at their own 44.
11:09 left in first quarter
Cardinals get a first down but Carson Palmer's third down pass to Alfonso Smith is late and behind him, falling incomplete. Cards get a field goal, so at least there's that.
3-0 Arizona.
Still 14:06 left in first quarter
Ruling on field is confirmed. That is all.
14:06 left in first quarter
Cardinals go three-and-out, but 56-yard punt return is fumbled and recovered by Arizona. Great special teams play, Cards have the ball at the Dallas 22. Justin Bethel forced the fumble, by the way.
Kid is pretty good.
Call is challenged.
1:00 until kickoff
Alright folks, it's time for another football season. Optimism permeates the building as the Cardinals look to improve from a miserable 5-11 campaign in 2012.
If the media meal is any indication, they're off to a good start.
Oh, and speaking of starts…Cardinals will receive the opening kickoff.


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Sheriff's letter to Vice President Biden
Last week, as President Obama was preparing to unveil his list of executive orders and legislative goals to tackle gun violence in America, Siskiyou County Sheriff Jon Lopey was sending a letter to Vice President Biden expressing his opposition to any new limits on gun rights.
Since the administration's announcement, many sheriffs and politicians across the country have issued similar letters and statements, some vowing not to enforce gun control laws they considered to be unconstitutional.
Below is a verbatim transcript of Sheriff Lopey's letter.
Dear Mr. Vice President:
The purpose of this letter is to advise you that as the duly-elected Sheriff-Coroner of Siskiyou County, California I am strongly opposed to your proposals to violate the constitutional rights of the citizens I serve by infringing upon their 2nd Amendment rights. As you are aware, public servants like us swear an oath to uphold and defend the United States Constitution. I took a similar oath when I worked for the Vacaville Police Department, California Highway Patrol, and as my county's Sheriff-Coroner.
I also took a similar oath as a United States Marine during the Viet Nam Era and later, when I served as a commissioned officer in the United States Army National Guard and Army Reserve. I have a "Certificate of Appreciation" signed by President Obama for my 30 years of commissioned service in the military. I once saw you in person, when you visited Camp Victory, Baghdad, Iraq, while I was serving there as a brigade executive officer. I had nearly 38 years active and reserve service in the military and have served in law enforcement for about 35 years. I think I have earned the right to provide you my views on the topic of gun control.
I can assure you that most law enforcement professionals, especially at the street level, will tell you that your idea of robbing honest, law-abiding citizens of their 2nd Amendment rights will not prevent violent acts and will actually increase "victimization" because you are essentially disarming good citizens and their right and capacity to defend themselves and their families from predators in society. Additionally, none of the recent tragedies committed by armed criminals, including the Aurora, CO and Newtown, CT shootings could have been prevented by gun-control measures since these violent offenders were not eligible to possess firearms. I am flabbergasted by the hundreds of federal and state gun-control laws already in existence. The answer to violent crime is multi-faceted and should not result in more gun-control measures.
We have enough gun laws and should vigorously enforce the laws which already exist and at the same time improve mental health care services and deal with related societal causation factors.
I am extremely disappointed that many elected representatives practice such a disregard for the United States Constitution and Bill of Rights; moreover, what happened to the Supreme Law of the Land? The United States Supreme Court has affirmed a citizens' fundamental right to legally bear arms. A recent example of this can be found in Supreme Court Cases District of Columbia vs. Heller and McDonald vs. Chicago. In the Heller case, the majority opinion affirmed that the Second Amendment protects a personal right to keep and bear arms for lawful purposes - most notably for self-defense within the home.
I have researched this topic throughout my career, which includes work locations in Los Angeles and Oakland, California. It is ironic that the cities with some of the most restrictive gun laws in the nation also have the highest murder rates (e.g., Chicago, Illinois and Washington, DC). I have also researched the high crime rates in countries like the United Kingdom, Australia and New Zealand. For example, in Australia, where most guns have been banned, crimes of violence with firearms and property crimes such as burglaries and thefts are sky-rocketing.
It is apparent that any research your committee undertook during the short time period since the tragic shooting in Newtown has not been adequate to justify the disintegration of the 2nd Amendment or the disarming of citizens we are supposed to serve and we are contemplating a course of action which will deprive them of personal property without due process. It appears to me and most citizens that I talk to that any federal legislation or executive orders enacted to violate the constitutional rights of the citizens I serve will be done while attempting to exploit the tragic and needless deaths of innocent victims by advocating the enactment of laws which will invariably penalize every hard-working, law-abiding citizen from possessing firearms or ammunition magazines they are entitled to own pursuant to the U.S. Constitution and Bill of Rights.
I am opposed to this usurpation of the constitutional rights of my citizens and will oppose any attempt to impose unconstitutional provisions on the fine citizens of Siskiyou County. Our citizens deserve much more than what they are getting from their elected representatives and it is time to do what is right and support them! We should punish criminals – not law-abiding citizens.
Very respectfully,
Jon E. Lopey, Sheriff-Coroner


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Our people
Developing new green energy projects across Europe, Martina Flanagan's training as a civil engineer now sees her helping to accelerate the green transition.
Martina Flanagan has joined Cero Generation, a Green Investment Group portfolio company operating on a stand-alone basis. Cero Generation is a leading solar energy company, working across Europe to support the transition to a net-zero future, for this and every generation.
Already applied and would like to track the status of your application?
Have a question about the recruitment process or working at Macquarie?


text:
Fat Quarter Twin Bed Quilt
Designers: Bill Kerr and Weeks Ringle of FunQuilts
- 11--18x22" pieces (fat quarters) assorted florals (pieced rows)
- 1/2 yard solid pink (pieced rows)
- 4-1/4 yards solid yellow (sashing, border)
- 3/4 yard solid green (binding)
- 5-7/8 yards backing fabric
- 73x105" batting
Finished quilt: 67x98-1/2"
Quantities are for 44/45"-wide, 100% cotton fabrics.
Measurements include 1/4" seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.
Cut Fabrics
Cut pieces in the following order. Cut sashing and border strips lengthwise (parallel to selvages).
From each assorted floral, cut:
- 8--7-1/2x4-1/2" rectangles (you'll use 84 of the 88 cut)
From solid pink, cut:
- 72--1-1/2x4-1/2" rectangles
From solid yellow, cut:
- 2--6-1/4x87" border strips
- 2--6-1/4x67" border strips
- 11--4x55-1/2" sashing strips
From solid green, cut:
- 9--2-1/2x42" binding strips
Assemble Pieced Rows
Referring to Quilt Assembly Diagram, sew together seven assorted floral 7-1/2x4-1/2" rectangles and six solid pink 1-1/2x4-1/2" rectangles to make a pieced row; press seams open. The pieced row should be 4-1/2x55-1/2" including seam allowances. Repeat to make 12 pieced rows total.
Assemble Quilt Center
1. Referring to Quilt Assembly Diagram, lay out pieced rows and solid yellow 4x55-1/2" sashing strips, alternating placement.
2. Sew together rows and sashing strips to make quilt center. Press seams open. The quilt center should be 55-1/2x87" including seam allowances.
Add Border
Add solid yellow 6-1/4x87" border strips to long edges of quilt center. Sew solid yellow 6-1/4x67" border strips to remaining edges to complete quilt top. Press all seams open.
Finish Quilt
1. Layer quilt top, batting, and backing; baste.
2. Quilt as desired. Designer Weeks Ringle machine-quilted an allover pebble motif across the quilt top.
3. Bind with solid green binding strips.


text:
President won't classify WBC as hate group
Obama won't strip Westboro Baptist Church tax exemptions, but says their actions are 'reprehensible'
WASHINGTON — The White House says it can't fulfill a request to deem a group that protests at soldiers' funerals a hate group. But it says President Barack Obama believes such actions are reprehensible.
The Obama administration is responding to petitions through the White House website to label the Westboro Baptist Church a hate group and revoke its tax-exempt status. Almost 700,000 people signed five related petitions.
The group claims when American troops die, it's God's punishment for America tolerating homosexuality and abortion.
The White House says the federal government doesn't maintain a list of hate groups. But it's releasing a map showing where the petition-signers come from. The map shows high density in Kansas, where the Westboro group is based, and Connecticut, where church members threatened to picket Newtown victims' funerals.


text:
Volunteering: Priceless Experience for Free
"When I grow up, I want to be a ____________." (Fill in the blank.)
Do you remember your answer—or answers—to that question when you were a kid? I envisioned myself as an archaeologist (think Indiana Jones) who would also be a firefighter when I wasn't busy minding my veterinary practice.
And then it happened—growing up. For many of us, the archaeologist became an accountant, the firefighter morphed into a freight driver, and the closest we came to understanding animals was the dog's life we seemed to be leading, working at jobs that sometimes fell short of our childhood dreams.
The good news is that it's never too late to realize your dreams—or at least to taste them once again—through volunteering. Sure, volunteering is the right thing to do and is its own reward. America's 1.5 million nonprofit organizations count on volunteers to deliver their important, often lifesaving, programs and services. Nearly 65 million of us rise to the call for service and participate in some type of voluntary activity each year.
But volunteering isn't just about helping others; it's also a chance to learn new things, meet new people, and, frankly, have some FREE fun.
In my case, I never became a full-fledged archaeologist, but I have volunteered at archaeological digs conducted through a local university—and sported my Indiana Jones hat while doing so.
Still want to be a firefighter? Almost 75 percent of all U.S. firefighters are volunteers (www.nvfc.org). And veterinarian wannabes, you need look no further than the local Humane Society (www.hsus.org), or another animal-rescue organization, for volunteer positions sure to give you your share of puppy love.
In fact, you can find a nationwide database of interesting and rewarding volunteer opportunities near you on AARP's Create The Good Web site.
Be sure to consider the following factors in evaluating whether a specific volunteer position is right for you:
- Time commitment and schedule: Just because you're volunteering your time doesn't mean you can show up whenever you feel like it. The nonprofit organization you're supporting needs to be able to count on you. Be clear on the time commitments and schedules before you say "yes."
- Special skills and training: Ask ahead of time whether any special skills are required to perform the volunteer work and whether or not volunteers receive any special training. Free training is one of the perks in many volunteer positions.
- Work environment and culture: If you're considering an ongoing volunteer position, ask to spend a few days "test driving" it before you commit to it for the long haul. Just as with a paid position, you need to make sure you feel comfortable in the work environment and with your colleagues—otherwise your voluntary endeavor could turn into a mistake for all involved.
- Future prospects: Volunteering can lead to opportunities for paid employment with the host organization. If you are considering a volunteer position with the hope of eventual employment in mind, ask in advance if that is even a possibility. Otherwise, you might be disappointed later.
In addition to all the other rewards and benefits of volunteering, remember that many out-of-pocket expenses incurred through volunteering, including transportation and mileage, may be tax-deductible. See IRS Publication 526, Charitable Contributions, for details.
Jeff Yeager is the author of the book, "The Ultimate Cheapskate's Road Map to True Riches." His Web site is www.UltimateCheapskate.com.


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Greetings from San Francisco!
I'm on my way to my dear friend, Tina's birthday dinner. I'm wearing this dress as a top. It's one of my favorite pieces. It can be worn as a dress, restyled into a shirt, or remixed into a skirt by adding a sweater over the top portion.
Thank you so much for your kind words and thoughts on my last blog post. I feel incredibly blessed to have your support. I have a lot to say about the juvenile justice and foster care system, and I hope we can continue this conversation on our blogging journey together.
Thank you so much for reading!
:: Outfit ::
Top :: Leather jacket purchased on eBay (very old) (similar here),
French Connection dress worn as a shirt (on sale!)
Bottom :: ASOS
Bag :: thanks to Marissa!
Shoes :: Christian Louboutin (old)
Accessories :: Kate Spade bangles, bracelet and ring thanks to Gorjana!
Thank you so much for reading!


text:
Because the NY Times recently exposed China's Prime Minister, Wen Jiabao, for having made billions of dollars through business dealings, Chinese hackers have been trying to hack and infiltrate the NY Times for the past 4 months. Security experts say the hackers used methods consistent with the Chinese military.
According to security firm Mandiant (which was hired by the Times), the Chinese hackers tried to hide their identity by routing their attacks on the NY Times through universities in the United States. Previous hacking attacks have used this method and many of those attacks originated from China. The NY Times reports:
The attackers first installed malware - malicious software - that enabled them to gain entry to any computer on The Times's network. The malware was identified by computer security experts as a specific strain associated with computer attacks originating in China. More evidence of the source, experts said, is that the attacks started from the same university computers used by the Chinese military to attack United States military contractors in the past.
No customer data has been stolen and from what they can tell, there has been no evidence that sensitive files about the Wen family gathered through reporting have been obtained either. China has a history of hacking American companies, sometimes causing them to get hacked right back. Many of its hacking initiatives are done in order to control China's public image, along with stealing secrets. Which means this ain't the first time and it won't be the last. [NY Times]


text: A term used by sleight-of-hand performers to describe the phenomenon that something in black tends to disappear when placed against a black background and physical dimensionality tends to flatten out. For example, a conjuror can make himself seem to disappear by jumping behind a black panel in front of a black background, the action covered by a flash of light or smoke. This is now enhanced through the use of ultraviolet or black lights. Although rarely used as a full act, it is a popular technique in Prague. Fradulent mediums often used this technique to make things appear or disappear in dimly-lit séance rooms.


text:
dup, dup2, dup3 - duplicate a file descriptor
#include <unistd.h> int dup(int oldfd); int dup2(int oldfd, int newfd); #define _GNU_SOURCE #include <unistd.h> int dup3(int oldfd, int newfd, int flags);
dup() uses the lowest-numbered unused descriptor for the new descriptor.
dup2() makes newfd be the copy of oldfd, closing newfd first if necessary, but note the following:
After a successful return from one of these system calls, the old and new file descriptors may be used interchangeably. They refer to the same open file description (see open(2)) and thus share file offset and file status flags; for example, if the file offset is modified by using lseek(2) on one of the descriptors, the offset is also changed for the other.
The two descriptors do not share file descriptor flags (the close-on-exec flag). The close-on-exec flag (FD_CLOEXEC; see fcntl(2)) for the duplicate descriptor is off.
dup3() is the same as dup2(), except that:
dup3() is Linux-specific.
If newfd was open, any errors that would have been reported at close(2) time are lost. A careful programmer will not use dup2() or dup3() without closing newfd first.
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