Is there a way to put a 60 amp 240 v double phase - receptacle outdoor for future car charger installation?

Question: I live in Ontario and follow the CEC and guidelines. I did take out a permit and doing all the electrical wiring my self. I am wondering how I can put a 60 amp receptacle outside. I can find plenty of 50 amps outdoor boxes on Amazon. Also, I cannot find any wire for 60 amp - 4/3 awg wire. Like you can find for 30 amps - 10/3 and 40 amps - 8/3.
So do I need to buy these 4 gauge wire separately(black/red/white/neutral) and use a conduit?
Comment: Most EV chargers do not really need that much, 20 or 30 amps at 240v will make most people happy.  Most places require outside/garage receptacles to be GFCI protected, at that size it is expensive/hard to find.  A hardwired charger to the panel bypasses this for now.
Comment: Just how "future" is this? Empty conduit is a *really good option* if you don't actually know what you are putting out there. You can pull suitable wires when you actually know, so long as you don't make the empty conduit too small. 1-1/4" conduit will fit 2-2-2-4 (or anything smalle.r)
Answer: Save the headache of the extra 10A you probably won't really need and use a bog-standard RV pedestal at 50A 240V (and you can have some handy 20A 120V receptacles practically for free in the usual pedestal)
As for cable to support 60A, use 2-2-2-4 Aluminum mobile home feeder, which is good for 90A and very affordable, much less costly than 4 AWG copper. Use an outdoor-rated subpanel on the post connected by conduit to the charger if the charger is fussy about "copper only" (which is an asinine restriction in that amperage range) so you'll only need very short copper from the sub-panel to the charger.
If you are buying 4 AWG or larger Wire (one conductor in jacket) to put in conduit, rather than multi-wire cable, 4 AWG is the magical point where you just buy enough black to do them all, and tape the ends. Can't do that with 6 AWG or smaller (and I think USA/Canada agree, because colored insulation is uncommon on larger conductors)
Answer: Unfortunately in the EV community, there's a sea of misinformation out there, largely due to misunderstanding of just how advanced EV tech is, and also due to people grossly overestimating their power needs.
In fact, this is such an epidemic that it goes hand-in-hand with people overloading their services and potentially burning their house down. Doing a Load Calculation the proper way is very important.
You don't need 60A. Really.
There's an introductory video that I link to novice EVers a couple of times a day, that has a realistic view on EV charging.  60A is "absolutely bonkers" for just about everyone. There's a person on Youtube who put over 100,000 miles on a Tesla Model S in 3 years, and their charging circuit is 40A I believe.
I'll let Alec take it away.  Here. Feel free to rewind and watch more of it if you want more of a primer on home EV charging.  Seriously - you can git-r-dun with a 20A circuit.
Alec has the option to go 50A but doesn't bother, and stays with a 30A actual (37.5A breaker) Siemens Versicharge unit gotten cheap at CostCo.
That elusive 60a receptacle

I live in Ontario and follow the CEC and guidelines. I did take out a permit and doing all the electrical wiring my self. I am wondering how I can put a 60 amp receptacle outside.

You can't.  There is no such thing as a (viable) 60A receptacle.  Highest you can go is 50A and even that is "absolutely bonkers".
But if you have an edge case and you need 60A-circuit charging... then you hard-wire the EVSE.  Hard-wiring means there is not a plug and socket at all, and it's a permanent installation. A common pushback is "I want to be able to easily exchange the EVSE if it fails". But since you're DIYing it, that logic doesn't really hold up.  It'll take you longer to install your specialty 60A plug onto the cable than it would to hardwire the thing.

Also, I cannot find any wire for 60 amp - 4/3 awg wire.

Because the consumer market is not geared to selling them. This is a procurement problem. You need better shops!  Better lumberyards (by which I mean local family-owned lumberyards not big-box stores) and proper electrical supply houses will have many options.  The key is the temperature and metal of the wires.
Wires have a thermal rating.  NM and NMWU are limited to 60°C thermal.  NMD90 and any of the wire types used in conduit pipe has a 75°C thermal rating. Howwever NMD90 might not be allowed outdoors.
The wire is also limited by the thermal rating of the terminals on the socket, disconnect, splice coupler or EVSE.  If the terminals are 60°C, that's that - 75°C wire is wasted.

60°C copper 6 AWG wire is only allowed 55A - not enough.
60°C copper 4 AWG wire is allowed 70A.
75°C+ copper 6 AWG wire is allowed 65A.
75°C+ aluminum 4 AWG wire is allowed 65A.

Aluminum wire can/should only be used on terminals listed for aluminum.
A subpanel, though.
As Ecnerwal discusses, you might be selecting cheaper 76°C or aluminum wire, except the EVSE's terminals are not rated for that, and you need a cheap way to make 3 wire splices. Polaris connectors are expensive.  Much cheaper is a subpanel. The subpanel will also help if you get a second EV and want to use Power Sharing to have the two EVs dynamically share a single current allocation.  This is a standard feature in all Tesla Wall Connectors and is quickly gaining ground with other EVSEs.
You don't need to run neutral to a subpanel that powers ONLY EVSEs, compressors, welders and heaters. However if you do run neutral, you can install 120V circuits in that panel.
Answer: As noted in another answer, one good solution is a 50A RV panel, which is a subpanel so it can (and normally) does provide a 120V receptacle as well (so you can plug in tools or whatever).
But if you only ever want to use this for EV charging, then:

Hardwire rather than receptacle. If it is really "future" then run the wires to a big metal box and connect the EVSE when you are ready.
You probably don't need 60A (48A actual) but could do fine with 20A (16A), 30A (24A) or 40A (32A), all of which use smaller (and therefore cheaper) wire.
Subject to local restrictions (in my county you can't use aluminum for a branch circuit (receptacle or hardwired) but you can for a subpanel), using aluminum wire makes a lot of sense. Just keep in mind that while most breakers are fine with aluminum wires, many EVSEs (hardwire) and receptacles are not.
If you don't use a subpanel then all you need are two hots and a ground, no neutral.
I recommend conduit, particularly if you have to run the wires underground, as conduit does not have to be placed as deep as cable. If you run conduit, I would seriously consider running a size larger than you currently need and using smaller wires for now. Then you can upgrade relatively easily in the future if you actually need more power. For example, 1/2" conduit would be enough for 3 x 10 AWG, but if you go to 3/4" conduit you could bump up a size or two without a problem.


"A menudo" vs "frecuentemente"

Question: Dictionary says both mean often. Which one is a better way to say often in Spanish in day to day conversations? If there are regional variations, I would like to know what Mexicans prefer.
Answer: In northern Mexico we say "seguido", it's not grammaticaly correct, but it's used in a day to day manner.

Voy seguido al cine => I often go to the movies
Seguido me quedo tarde en el trabajo => I often stay late at work

"Frecuentemente" is more formal (and correct)
Comment: As a cultural curiosity, in Castillian Spanish it would be preferable to use *a menudo*
Comment: Same in Argentina. BTW, the question asks about "a menudo" vs "frecuentemente".
Comment: @motilio Thanks for "segued"...So, is "a menudo" never used? Is it more formal than "frecuentamente"?
Comment: "A menudo is" very rarely used. And I think it is not more formal than "frecuentemente".
Answer: As in English, in Spanish they're a lot of adverbs that express frequency and when you're not speaking about always or never it will depend on the emphasis you want to give it rather than the meaning of the word itself, at least, that's how I think and what I usually hear from the people, and language is more trying to communicate to other people rather than following the exact rules that an organization says yo to follow. Though that organization changes the rules in function of how the most people speak, so... Anyway there are a lot of adverbs as I said before for the middle:
Ustedes frecuentemente asisten a clase.
You frequently attend to class.

Ustedes usualmente asisten a clase.
You usually attend to class. (The "normal thing" is you go to class)

Ustedes a menudo asisten a clase
You frequently attend to class.  (I think this one feels like 'almost always' or with more frequency than "frecuentemente")

Ustedes ocasionalmente asisten a clase.
You ocassionally attend to class. (most of times you don't go)

Ustedes a veces asisten a clase.
You sometimes attend to class. (Kind of "half and half" yo go and don't)

Ustedes algunas veces asisten a clase.
You sometimes attend to class. (Kind of "half and half" yo go and don't)

Answer: There is no difference in using a menudo vs frecuentemente
Motilio is correct, a menudo and frecuentemente are not used in a day to day conversations. We use seguido
Deberíamos ir más seguido al cine

María viene a visitarme seguido
(María viene a visitarme a menudo)
(María viene a visitarme frecuentemente)

Answer: "a menudo" or "con mucha frecuencia" are used in Spain.  When I lived in Barcelona and Madrid  I never once heard "seguido" used in that way.  In fact, when someone from Mexico said it to me recently, I didn't know what they were talking about.
Comment: Seguido is not used in Spain as you mention, but as she asks from Mexico I think seguido is the best option :P.

"A menudo" vs "frecuentemente"


Sharepoint Document Library not showing all Documents

Question: We are using a project management solution to manage all our projects and we have a document library for each projects and each tasks. In this specific project, im sure there are more than 100 documents but i'm only seeing like 25 or so documents, what could be causing this, how do i view the rest of the documents, i've tried to work with settings but that was no help, can anyone please help?
Answer: Sounds like the view is filtering.
Start at your 'all documents' view. Click the dropdown to select 'edit current view' and check the filter section.
Answer: A few things you can check:

Check if you have proper permission to see all documents. Site collection administrators have access to all contents regardless of unique permissions.

Create a new list view in this library to avoid any grouping or filtering applied in other views.

The rest of the documents might in the state of drafts that are only visible to creators and site collection administrators.


Is it possible to copy on screen shot on Mojave?

Question: I want to after command+shift+4 to screen shot, copy that image to do further work, so I don't have to click and drag the image from desktop, is this possible?
Answer: Yes, this is possible, but you need a double click. double click the image on the right-down corner of your screen and a simple command+c as it is previewed will work.


Kubernetes in Vsphere Virtual machines

Question: Dears,
Sorry may be a basic question for some of you. If i have a Vsphere Environment and i am allowed to access only 2 Virtual machines inside them. Can I set kubernetes cluster with 1 VM as master and 1 VM as Minion without interacting with the hypervisor or the Vsphere center ?
In this case what are the requirements
I already set up an environment in my Laptop but i should define a host only network in Virtualbox and define the machines also for the host ? should that be the same in case of Vsphere ?
Answer: There are some requirements for Kubernetes cluster. According to the official documentation it is necessary to have:

One or more machines running one of:

Ubuntu 16.04+
Debian 9
CentOS 7
RHEL 7
Fedora 25/26 (best-effort)
HypriotOS v1.0.1+
Container Linux (tested with 1800.6.0)

2 GB or more of RAM per machine (any less will leave little room for your apps)
2 CPUs or more
Full network connectivity between all machines in the cluster (public or private network is fine)
Unique hostname, MAC address, and product_uuid for every node. See here for more details.
Certain ports are open on your machines. See here for more details.
Swap disabled. You MUST disable swap in order for the kubelet to work properly.

Also, IP subnets for Services and for Pods must not interfere with IP subnets in the same VPC.
To set up Kubernetes cluster it is enough to have SSH access to VMs. Additional network interfaces are not required.
If you already have VMs, the most convenient tool for cluster creation is kubeadm. Please, consider reading the following part of official documentation:

Creating a single master cluster with kubeadm

Kubernetes in Vsphere Virtual machines


UDP multicast send/receive: Routing or socat issues?

Question: I'm using 'socat' on Linux Centos 7 to diagnose some problems.  Server and clients are all linux centos7, they all have multiple interfaces.  Server 10.1.1.1 is on Switch 1, 10.1.1.2 is on Switch 2.  Switch 1 and Switch 2 are Layer3 switches, directly connected, running Cisco NX-OS.  This is situation I can't explain:
server 10.1.1.1 (connect to Switch 1, UDP packet sender) to send data via STDIN:
socat STDIO UDP4-DATAGRAM:22.214.171.124:12345

client 10.1.1.2 (connect to Switch 2, UDP packet receiver):
socat UDP4-RECVFROM:12345,ip-add-membership=18.104.22.168:10.1.1.2,fork,reuseaddr -

The client receives server's UDP packets, until I start another receiver on the same machine as the server 10.1.1.1:
socat UDP4-RECVFROM:12345,ip-add-membership=188.8.131.52:10.1.1.1,fork,reuseaddr -

The moment I start this second receiver, client on 10.1.1.2 stops receiving any data from server.  I also use tcpdump and see that no packet has been received on that port on 10.1.1.2.  In addition, from then onwards, even if I restart the server and clients, 10.1.1.2 does not receives anymore multicast packets from 10.1.1.1 anymore for THAT multicast prefix (239.2.2.x).
Is this a problem in switch routing?  or I missed some parameters on the 'socat' command line?  I checked that rp_filter=0 on that interface (10.1.1.x).
EDIT: Update the question to include more network setup.  as more suspicion on this as a routing problem.
UPDATE: we found that the 10.1.1.x VLAN on the Layer3 switch does not have PIM enable.  That probably means multicast routing is not enabled.  That said, I'm not sure why the first time 10.1.1.2 on the different switch would receive data in the first place.
Answer: It turns out it is a routing problem on the switch.  Multicast routing for the VLAN in 10.1.1.x is not turned on.  Once we added 'pim sparse-mode' on our cisco router.  Everything is working as expected.


How do you magnetize an object?

Question: How can I go about magnetizing something?  Specifically, a whole bunch of BB's.  I want to try this so that I could make a cheaper version of the Bucky Balls product.  Even if I can't replicate Bucky Balls, it'll still be an interesting project.
Comment: I asked K&J about this, and they replied, in part, that "The price of raw neodymium has been rising very quickly in the past few months. If you want some of those, you might want to get them at that price while you can!" They have a video of magnetizing a screwdriver at http://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=magnet-basics, but I couldn't get a small steel ball bearing to magnetize by this kind of approach because of the awkward geometry. Doing 216 this way would be time consuming.
Comment: The price is actually pretty good. Compare with a magnet supplier I've used in the past, K&J magnetics, http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=12, where 250 grade N42 3/16" spheres cost $137.50. Just steel balls, which are very cheap, will not magnetize anything like as well as rare earth balls. It's the material you're paying for, not the magnetization.
Comment: @Peter Morgan, i figured what i end up making probably wont' be nearly as strong, but it's jsut somethign i want to play with.
Comment: Update: http://www.supermagnete.de/eng/faq/price The price of neodymium  changes with time so be sure to check recent prices instead of using information from this old posts/comments. (The link shows the price fluctuation of neodymium during 2011, when this question was active))
Answer: To permanently magnetize them, you need to start with bb's that are made of a ferromagnetic material, e.g., iron (or some kinds of steel), nickel or cobalt.  This is the challenging part.  When I was a kid they made bb's out of copper.  Nowadays they probably make them out of some other less expensive but equally non-ferromagnetic material.
Assuming you can find a ferromagnetic bb, the next step is to subject it to a very strong magnetic field, which you could do with a homemade electromagnet.
You can slightly magnetize the right object simply by subjecting it to high shock, for example, by striking it with a hammer; but a blow strong enough to be of magnetic benefit might squash your bb.
EDIT:  Was doing a little research to answer a comment, and discovered that those "copper" BBs I shot as a kid were actually copper-coated steel BBs.  So, your magnetic BBs may be much easier to come by than I thought.
Comment: how would i make a strong homeade electromagnet (know how to make the small ones)?  Also, how long would i have to expose them to the magnetic field for them to become magnetized?
Comment: The link in Fortunato's post gives a much more complete and detailed treatise on the subject than you could get from me. My method would involve cannibalizing and taking a hacksaw to power supply transformers, which some might find ... shocking.
Comment: ""When I was a kid they made bb's out of copper. Nowadays they probably make them out of some other less expensive but equally non-ferromagnetic material.  "" Please, what do You mean with "bb"?
Comment: "bb" often refers to a small gun powered by air pressure; bullets for these guns are small spheres. They're usually not subject to the same regulations as firearms, as they're far less lethal.
Comment: @ Georg --> "bb guns" are an American tradition for kids in rural areas. They are CO2 or air-powered, and "fire" a 4.4mm metal ball, typically between 150 ft/s and 450 ft/s. Most of the more popular guns are spring-air riles, which are of the lower muzzle velocities. For these, maximum range is about 150 m; and maximum accurate range is about 30 m.  They can take an eye out, or make your buns sting (don't ask how I know), but are otherwise benign enough to not require permits in almost all areas.
Answer: Here is a great paper on how to magnetize. http://www.oersted.com/magnetizing.PDF
Yes you are correct it is a hard paper to "weed through" but all the necessary information is there. If you go down to the explanation on the apparatus for magnetizing you can essentially deduce that.

You need impact the material being magnetized.
You need to put the material in a strong magnetic field
So the magnetic field and the material must be aligned just right
"A ferromagnet, like a paramagnetic substance, has unpaired electrons. However, in addition to the electrons' intrinsic magnetic moment's tendency to be parallel to an applied field, there is also in these materials a tendency for these magnetic moments to orient parallel to each other to maintain a lowered energy state. Thus, even when the applied field is removed, the electrons in the material maintain a parallel orientation.
Every ferromagnetic substance has its own individual temperature, called the Curie temperature, above which it loses its ferromagnetic properties. This is because the thermal tendency to disorder overwhelms the energy-lowering due to ferromagnetic order.
Some well-known ferromagnetic materials that exhibit easily detectable magnetic properties (to form magnets) are nickel, iron, cobalt, gadolinium and their alloys."
Comment: Interesting, but not, I think, a guide for the home experimenter.
Comment: @Peter Morgan, yeah, i breeed through some of it and got completely lost

How do you magnetize an object?


Adding custom fields on checkout and save to database on magento 2.1

Question: I have added custom fields on checkout page. The fields are displayed properly. But I want to save the custom fields to database too.
I found some guide to do that but no luck.
Can anybody have insight on it? Please help.
Comment: Can you share more detail about that?
Comment: I'm dying trying to do that... did you solved? can you please update the question with source code? So they will be more likely to help us. I'm on the same point, I'm viewing the fields but they are not saving on the ddbb
Answer: I am not sure whether you've checked out this sample module: add extensible attributes.
https://github.com/magento/magento2-samples/blob/master/sample-external-links/README.md
Comment: Your link explains to how add an external link with an additional attribute for a product. In checkout and regarding the question above, it's far to be the right answer, not even a clue to start to find a solution,


When bikepacking solo, how to handle luggage when shopping?

Question: I'm planning my first solo cycling trip this summer. While it's not my first cycling trip (I've already done 4 big ones over 1000 km), it's the first tour I'm planning to do alone. One thing concerns me a lot, is how it works with shopping. So far, we've always handled it by having one person wait with the luggage while the other person does the shopping. But how do I do that alone and what are your experiences? Countries on the route are Belgium, Netherlands, and France.
Answer: Four options:

Only take what you do not worry about and leave it on the bike when you shop.
Lock your bike and take your luggage into the shop with you.
Check into a hotel and leave your luggage in your locked room before you go out shopping.
Take everything you need from home and do without shopping.

Most people will do something that is a mix.
If you have a safe place to sleep, whether it is a campsite or some building, leave what you can there and go shopping. Always take the important items like money, passport, camera and phone, but do not worry too much about your tent and bedding.
For a short shop when you are in a small town lock your bike well but leave the luggage on, trusting that most people are honest.
If you manage to travel with little luggage you can take it into the shop with you, mostly people take in part of their things, not all.
But do plan on not having to do some shopping every day if you feel not right about leaving your things behind.
Comment: Yes, solo in the UK  and France I've always relied on keeping my valuables on my person and the rest being OK.  I try to chose shops with care - village shops rather than big supermarkets in major towns - both for lower risk of opportunists and because smaller shops take me out of site for a shorter time.  But I'm also prepared to lock up at a nature reserve and go for a short hike, lock up by a river and sim, that sort of thing.  I tend not to carry a massive lock, but I will on a long weekend I've got coming up, because a couple of my stops leave me with little choice late at night.
Comment: I'd add that for The Netherlands (and big cities), looking for a 'bewaakte fietsenstalling' (guarded bicycle parking) can also be an option, if you don't mind walking a bit with your groceries/aren't very particular about at which supermarket you want to shop. The city near me for example has one that's free to use and pretty much across the street from a supermarket. They won't likely be found in small villages or towns though.
Comment: The downside of taking everything into the shop with you is that you're tied into having panniers  and therefore a rack.  Frame bags, (some) bar bags, saddlebags etc. are far harder to carry off the bike, and I would have been up to 4 bags excluding the ones that only held bike tools.  Further, they have to be attached to the bike then packed, so you end up with all your kit spread out in a supermarket car park.  But if you are running with a pair of big panniers, going to a supermarket with trolleys may be an option - if they'll let you take them in
Comment: @ChrisH: Since bags mounted to the bike are harder to remove it also makes it harder for a thief. Some bags (e.g. Topeak Backloader X) have an internal drybag you can easily take out and carry with you into the shop.
Comment: @Michael I've got the backloader, The drybag is a bit of a pain, because it's not as big as the main bag,. The difference is enough  that having bought  a sleeping bag carefully chosen to fit in my saddlebag when compressed, it didn't fit compressed and  protected from rain.  I made a new, tapered, compression sack for it.  OTOH a damp tarp can go in the saddlebag outside the drybag.  Because of the drybag, my backloader is for my sleeping bag and clothes, and well stuffed (no simply slipping the drybag back in), so quite tricky to remove as you suggest, but also not a priority target.
Answer: I agree on leaving low-value, replaceable items on the bike.
You can further reduce the risk of losing them by making it harder for the thieve to take them discreetly:

Make the bags difficult to remove from the bike. Small padlocks or even just straps at difficult to access areas are great for this. You don't want to make the locking on the bags too obvious, as it will make them more attractive to thieves. Slicing the bag and spilling the contents is always more work and attracts more attention than just carrying the whole bag away.
Make it appear you will be only gone for a short time. For example, leave a cheap piece of clothing dangling on top of the bike.
Make it appear you have only cheap stuff - it's great if your bags appear a bit repaired and cheap, whether they really are or not.
Leave something obvious to steal: a small unlocked bag, or even an old smartphone. Once someone runs away with it, they are less likely to stick around looking through your other stuff.
If possible, park against a physical obstacle like a wall that makes it difficult to access bags on that side.
Park in an area that could be observed from somewhere, such as near the outdoor tables of a restaurant. Unless the thief has seen you park, they'll have reasonable suspicion that you are within line-of-sight.
Comment: *For example, leave a cheap piece of clothing dangling on top of the bike* normally in my case that's damp and not particularly fresh cycling gear that's been roughly washed out and I'm trying to get dry
Comment: Attaching a couple inexpensive "bear bells" to the top/sides of your bag can also act as a simple deterrent (in addition to the straps/locks you mentioned).  When riding, you can use a magnet to hold each bell's thingamabob against the interior of the bell's shell to keep each bell quiet.
Comment: The last one is especially useful in small towns and villages. Placing it in an area with witnesses around (and often small shops in villages are a social area with locals sitting around) is a good deterrent against thieves. (unless it's a very rough neighborhood where locals would sympathize with thieves, but with some experience you can recognize such neighborhoods)
Comment: @vsz don't count on "witnesses being around" to be any deterrent at all thieves. Bike thieves are well aware that most people would perceive an ongoing bike theft as [SEP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Somebody_else%27s_problem) and not make any attempt to stop it. What would be the deterrent in this specific case is that the thief would suspect _the bike owner_ might be watching, who obviously owns this problem.
Comment: @leftaroundabout : my focus was on *small town or village*, where the "somebody else's problem" is not as prevalent as in bigger cities.
Answer: The most important thing is to keep your valuables on your person, as others have implied.  In my case, that means taking my phone off the bars - my wallet and keys stay in my jersey pockets.  At little village shops and many cafes, that's all I do, not even bothering to lock up (or just using a mini cable lock against opportunists riding off)
I recommend reading Willeke's answer setting out your options, before getting much further with mine.
The less valuable stuff is protected by being tricky to steal.  A thief would either have to start opening bags and looking for something worth having, or manage to get a whole bag off with its fiddly fastenings, on the chance that there's something worth stealing in it.
Panniers, if you use them, can sometimes be taken into supermarkets attached to a trolley (that's how I do my weekly shopping); other supermarkets don't like you taking big bags in, but have somewhere to leave them.
Even with panniers, I'd only take the more important one(s) and/or the ones I wanted to pack shopping into.  This is my old heavy bike-camping setup, for a long weekend at the beach rather than touring - I wouldn't have the front panniers on a tour (one had a wetsuit, the other, hiking boots).   In this case I'd pack the semi-valuables (e.g. a cheap camera) into the bar bag - this one has a shoulder strap - and use it for shopping.  The rear panniers are usually locked together and to the rack with a light cable lock, and all the panniers are fiddly to remove.
Travelling lighter, this is my setup for a 1200km (just over a week) solo camping tour.
 (more details and pictures of the bikepacking  rig here, also illustrating my point under jpa's answer about draping unpleasantly damp clothing over the top, looking too scruffy to be worth stealing, and the camping setup here).  I only had a light lock, and there were only 2 places I was nervous - the 2 biggest supermarkets, especially the one that was in a big town and not the nicest bit.  I was very quick in that shop.  The backpack marked "Empty" was my shopping bag so I could carry fresh food and extra water from a shop to a camping or lunch spot, or to hike, but all the other bags are fiddly to remove.  The bags in this setup are fitted to the bike then packed, so removing them would be really tedious, and carrying them at least as bad.
On that same trip, I had a couple of hikes and a few swims.  For the longest hike I left the bike/tent at a campsite and didn't worry about it or my other stuff.  This is perhaps from growing up spending time on campsites where only valuables were secured.
I've got a trip coming up soon, not exactly a tour but close (780km over 3 days, one night on the road with company but without sleep, then returning solo with a hotel stop). For that I'll use the big saddlebag pictured above (a Topeak Backloader, with its  drybag inside) and a frame bag similar to the pale grey one, but sized to fit my other bike*.  I'll carry a proper lock on that trip, because in a couple of places I'll have a very limited choice of where to stop (e.g. late on a Sunday evening).
I take a similar approach for long day rides (long meaning 200+km, so the temperature and weather can change quite a bit, and I need a certain level of self-sufficiency), rarely carrying a heavy lock and not worrying about someone looking in my bags to steal my jacket and snacks - but staying as close to the bike as feasible, trying to keep it in sight.

* I make some of my own luggage, including the pale grey and orange bags here.
Comment: The look of that humongous lever of a saddle bag dangling there freely with even more stuff strapped to it hurts my eyes (and other body parts, by imagination). Why would you do that to a poor seatpost, on a bike that doesn't even have suspension and could easily support rear luggage from below?
Comment: @left The load from a sleeping bag and clothes is far far less than the load from my sit bones not being centred over the seat post by a few cm.  The empty backpack strapped their weighs essentially nothing.  When loaded with anythind more than a damp jacket, it's on me  My lightest rack is nearly 1kg of deadweight, plus rack-top bags are heavier than saddlebags.   Anyway it's a pretty sturdy alloy seatpost in a steel seat tube. Well packed and strapped that bag doesn't sway much, but on my lighter bike I can feel some movement, so it's not the best place for heavy stuff
Comment: You could just brace the bag with some light aluminium struts. I've made a complete (albeit minimal) rack out of 10mm tubes and wood, weighs about 200g but strong enough to directly strap a large tent and more on top of it with no dangling or bouncing. (I've even used it to transport my complete alpine skiing equipment once, though that didn't really work well.)
Comment: @leftaroundabout that seems rather pointless. It's my driest bag, and the stuff that matters most if it gets wet is light - no problem.
Answer: When I traveled alone, where there was a possibility of theft, when I go shopping for supplies, I looked for nearby bike shops, normally the owners were always very eager and would let me leave the bike there during this period. When I returned to the bike shop I would always try to buy something like energy bars or a new water bottle to provide minimal mutual help.
Comment: that is a nice idea
Answer:
If you can, bring the bike into the shop or at least anteroom with you.
Bring the luggage with you if you can. Easier if your bags are easy to take off. For example a pair of panniers is easy to take off and put into a shopping cart.
At the least, bring your most valuable stuff with you (passport, money, smartphone).
Lock the bike. Even a small cable lock will prevent somebody from simply running away with the bike and all the luggage. You can also take the front wheel or both wheels out. You can even carry a wheel with you into the shop. If you can "lock" the bike and luggage with helmet or bag straps it also means a thief has to fiddle around for a few seconds more. If your bags are easy to take off (e.g. Ortlieb Backrollers with their quick lock system) make it harder by threading the lock through the bag handles or wrapping the straps around the rack.
Make it appear less desirable. A dirty bike with scratches with a bag of garbage or smelly laundry strapped to the rear rack makes for a much less inviting target.
Lock somewhere visible and spend as little time away from the bike as possible.

Honestly most of the time I don't bother with all of the above. If I can see the bike from inside, the area is not too questionable and it looks like it will only take a few minutes I'm happy to just lock the bike with a small cable lock and trust that nobody will start rummaging through my luggage. Especially true if I just hop into a small bakery in the countryside.
Comment: For the lock, a frame lock (spoke lock) will do.
Comment: If you want the minimal security of a frame lock a long shackle padlock between the seatstay and a spoke is similar - no riding off easily - but can be combined with a very light looped cable to lock to a fence and prevent easy lifting
Comment: @gerrit: Frame locks tend to be surprisingly heavy. For that amount of weight you can basically bring a small U-lock which offers much more security.
Comment: A frame-lock is for low-risk scenarios, where one doesn't need much more security. A frame lock is convenient because it's impossible to forget.  When bikepacking, bike+rider+luggage are probably around 100 kg at least, possibly more than 120 kg.  For me the added weight of a frame lock is not an issue at all in this case (not sure if I could even tell a 0.6% increase in mass). Bonus: if you bring enough gear, a thief cannot lift bike + gear so they can't run off with it either :D
Comment: Bringing bikes into a shop or the anteroom will depend on where you are and how many bikes there are. In the Netherlands it will be a no go, too many bikes and not much space inside. It might work in a big supermarket in France which is in the middle of nowhere but I would not be surprised if they do not like it there either.
Comment: @Willeke: Yes, I've had mixed success with it. I've been thrown out for bringing the bike inside. I've also been thrown out for being barefoot (can't walk properly in road bike shoes). I've also been denied service in cafès because I wanted to keep the bike at my table (outside, with barely any customers in sight). You just have to try and don't expect people to be rational in their refusal.
Answer: Alarm.
Audible alarms are almost useless for vehicle theft prevention. They are worse than useless for car theft, providing an easy way to check if the owner is nearby - the thief will kick the tires, take a smoke, make sure they're in the clear.
But for this one tiny narrow scenario, preventing external luggage theft, they can be useful. Lock your bike with a U-lock, lock your luggage with cable locks to provide a small delay, turn on the alarm.
Within a very short range and a very short timeframe, they work. Provided you keep your phones, laptop, and cash in your backpack. Disclaimer: Not guaranteed to work if you're traveling with the scoop on who exactly gave the kill order on JFK to the undocumented party from Roswell.
Answer: A case study to consider:
Long, long ago, in a hostel far, far away, one fellow traveller stood out from the rest owing to his out-going and always friendly demeanor. A memorable individual with a backstory (summarised below).
"Bob" had paired-up with another 'traveller', "Charlie", spending a few days of touring together.
As they waited for an long-distance bus to take them to the next town on this holiday island, they grew thirsty.
Bob headed off to purchase two drinks, trusting his pack to the watchful care of Charlie. A very short time later, Bob returned with the drinks, only to discover Charlie (and both packs) were nowhere to be found.
First meeting Bob, and hearing his story, roughly one week after this "misfortune", he politely (and cheerfully) refused any/all commiserations. He said, "I'm here for only 2 months, and I've wasted the first month stressed and fretting about being ripped-off... Now that maybe being robbed no longer an issue, I've been enjoying the freedom and liberation, finally able to enjoy being here on this beautiful island!"
Advice: Leave "home" at home. Bring along only essentials and expendables. Travel light and worry less. Disconnect from the status quo.
Comment: Not sure if [the victim of the Great Mongolian Bicycle Robbery](https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2004/aug/17/china.world) would reason that way.  I would not be pleased if my tent and sleeping bag were nicked and I have to sleep in the open air in a remote wilderness (at official campgrounds it may not even be permitted).  Travelling lightly is not realistic if bikepacking in remote parts of the world or in poor weather.
Comment: The other alternative would be to book an all-organised cycling holiday with luggage transport, so that during the day one is travelling lightly and can bring all belongings into the shop (except for the bike itself).  Not for me, but an alternative to some.
Comment: @gerrit the alternative *if you've got money* is to book... (also, typically, if you like short days, big campsites, and you want to go where such a service is an option).  I have done a tour like that, and enjoyed it, but on a more recent trip with the same people we went for carrying (a fairly minimal) everything ourselves and staying in hotels.
Comment: @gerrit Appreciate the "reality check". I agree... somewhat... The reason for submitting this response (in March) was an attempt to have the OP "chill"... This question, months ahead of their solo "Summer trip" suggests anticipation of loss, stress and misfortune is already tainting the experience. "_When you got nothin', you got nothin' to lose._" OR! One could book an all-inclusive river boat cruise with a locking door on a private cabin. Jus' trying to provide "perspective." (I do have some bicycle touring experiences. Key word: "experience".)
Answer: Bikepacking is traveling light.  But regardless...
Carry one large thin bag that can hold all the others.  Put them all in the large one, go to the store, ask to stash your bag while shopping (so they know you aren't hiding items you haven't paid for yet in it).  Retrieve it when you pay and leave.
A wheeled trolley to hold this large bag is probably excessive, but I have seen shopping panniers with wheels - two of those might fit your needs.
Considering the pictures others posted along with their replies, I would think full front and rear panniers is impractical for this, but the bikepacking picture looks quite reasonable.
Comment: Not all bikepackers travel light.  Some may go on multi-month expeditions, bringing winter tyres, packrafts, hiking gear, weeks of food, and end up with 50 kg of luggage.
Comment: Yeah and I have to transport the camping material for 2 peoples :)
Answer: well, i have some theoretical thoughts, on this subject, because i was planning, outdoor trip in mountains, for very long and my conclusions was of some practical manner
that, if you have only backpack, then you can try to, go straight, across the mountains, which is more extreme sport, because you try to jump, across the line of mountains and, this gives you idea to make, camp if you find place for fire
but, this is considering you have really good clothes, which i collect too, because i am fan of sport , and tourism but as you notice there is many brands, and beginning from hard-shell blouse, and soft shell, like texas shield you have variety of more and less expensive equipment
so, in this subject obviously, you see that you can also, travel very fast but, bikes are horrendous prices, and this is very rare choice, but i suppose many people think that this, very extreme sport is really funny or attractive
i say, this mostly about sudeten mountains, which is in poland west border, and i think that this is, true about mountain that there is, weather and temperature and, you must realise, that principles are not to frost
so, its just thoughts that i had, and basically i think that, it is true also about lower altitude, but 5000 meters is alot the same thing , so unless there is wood you can make fire, and this is point to remember, that you must take alot of dry food, because preparing food, can be to big problem , and metabolism still works
so, despite low temperatures are not, favoured by everybody i still think, this is attractive way, to spend time and i wish, everybody could visit mountains in winter, looks is really impressive, especially water flowing from mountains
something, you can remember your whole, life is just impression that this is wild nature, and weather changes , but you remember place and, only you must first book hotel , which some people forget because they think, its spirit of adventure, but even weather can be dangerous, and this is it
best wishes
Answer: I like to find public lockers to leave my luggage at, they can usually be found in train stations. If you happen to be staying at a backpacker hostel with a reception, it's also usually possible to leave your stuff at the reception as you explore the city!
Answer: It is possible to get a lockable "hard shell" case. Of course, this will not stop the complete bicycle from being stolen (it makes more sense to break the primary lock, so you get everything), but for a very short stop, this may work. It is obviously not advisable to keep anything valuable inside, just against random kiddies that may pick stuff like a spare tube and a package of chips.
If the initial driving-off effect does not work, I keep my case unlocked so it can be easily opened. What is inside often has less value than the price of the case itself if it is broken while opening.
Comment: This is more useful if it does improve your speed, as a tail faring on a recumbent bike, holding luggage is not the main reason to have one but a nice side effect.


Taking Measurements for Driveway Project

Question: I'm a new DIYer and my first project is to cover my sand driveway with bluestone gravel. My question is how do I take measurements of driveway to determine how much gravel to buy? Thank you in advance for your help!
Comment: When you say blue stone is this shale? I have put down a heavy mesh similar to what road crews use for keeping crushed rock /shale from sinking in but the mesh allows drainage. I put 6-8" of rock down and packed it spraying with water while packing, this was over 100' long and there was only 1 area that had problems after 5 years, a heavy rain(storm) filled a low spot on 1 side and washed out some of the sand, I added a drain under that section with more mesh under the pipe and filled the trench with rock until level with the original gravel, this has held up, not sunk , the new owner paved it
Comment: It's not clear what you're asking. What part of the measurement or the math has you stumped? The basic formula for volume is length * width * height. You can then divide into whatever unit you're after (cubic yards, say).
Comment: @isherwood I think that's what I was looking for! The bags are sold by pound to cover a certain cubic yard measurement. So say for example, the driveway is 9*4*2 (assuming the 'height' would be how deep the sand is?), would that be considered 72 cu yd?
Comment: Your driveway is to be two yards deep?
Comment: @isherwood no, I think that's how many inches deep the sand is now! :-) I think the answer below might be a good start to what I am looking for. I only want to add about 2 inches of gravel after I compact the sand. I'm totally novice as you can tell but it really doesn't seem that hard. I suck at math/measurements/conversions so I just want to make sure I'm doing that correctly so I get enough gravel the first time around!!
Comment: That was my point. You're mixing units. If you measure the width in yards, also measure the thickness in yards.
Comment: @isherwood aha, gotcha! That makes sense...thank you for your help and patience with answering!!
Answer: Measure the area of the driveway using a tape measure, walking wheel, or whatever is most appropriate for the size and layout of your driveway. If your driveway is rectangular, just multiply the length (in feet) by the width (in feet). If it's a more complicate shape, break it into smaller shapes that are rectangles, and add the area of each smaller shape together.
Take the area and multiply it by the depth of sand you wish to have, in inches. Divide that by 12, and the result is the number of cubic feet of sand you'll need. Divide that by 27 to get the number of cubic yards you'll need.
You'll probably want to add some fudge factor to account for measurement errors, the driveway edges not being straight, dips in the driveway, etc. How much depends on the size of your driveway, but 10% is probably a good starting point.
Comment: Triangles: `l * w * .5`
Comment: @mmathis I'm not adding sand, I'm covering it with gravel. But I'm thinking I only want the gravel to be about 2 inches or so. But thank you, I think this will be helpful. Please see my other question about temporarily covering sand driveway!
Comment: Sand, gravel, whatever you're putting down, this method will work :)
Comment: @mmathis So, I just measured the driveway and it's a lot longer than I thought!! The driveway is rectangular so the measurements are 34Lx8W measured in ft. So would this be the correct calculation: 34 x 4 x 0.20 (actually, 0.17, but allowing for fudging :-) and then divide by 12?
Comment: @mspatient10 For 2 inches of gravel on a 34'x8' driveway, you'd want 34x8x2/12 = ~45 cubic feet. Dividing that by 27 gives ~1.75 cubic yards.
Comment: @mmathis Oh wow...so the bags I'm thinking to get are sold as such: .50 cu ft, 40lbs means I will need @ 90 bags??
Comment: Yep. At that point, it may be cheaper to buy it by the yard from a supplier (i.e., not the big blue or orange stores). Many of them deliver, too, if you don't have a pickup truck.


SQLiteDatabase warning Android

Question: Since I updated my sdk and eclipse I started to get warnings:
sqlite returned: error code = 17, msg = prepared statement aborts at 21: [SELECT * FROM user]
What does it means?
Answer: as per this post, remove your database and create it again. hope it should solve.
Comment: it did not help. It not causing any problems, it just a warning.
Answer: Here is a link about same problem... Check here may be it help you.. if it does not help can you please provide Your source code
SQLite "database schema has changed" error in Content Provider

SQLiteDatabase warning Android


the relationship of amps to rpms in an induction motor

Question: when searching for a 2000 watt induction motor online the rpms seems to range from 3450-3600  Why? if you wanted to double rpms to say 7000 ,is that possible and if you are using 3 phase 220 V line, how would amps be effected. where can I study about this? I am a novice
Comment: The rotation speed depends on the kind of motor. we have lots of motors. and electromagnetic equations are applied for each differently.
Comment: As SunnyBoy says, if you need to increase speed, a VFD is the answer. Current (amps) doesn't depend much on the speed, but depends A LOT on the torque load.
Answer: Speed:
The speed is measured in RPM.  60 Hz excitation voltage corresponds to 3600 RPM.  The mechanical speed can be further reduced by using a motor with higher magnetic pole count.  Two pole motor has the same mechanical frequency as the excitation voltage.  Four pole motor will have half the frequency, six-pole motor will have a third of the frequency.
Induction machines slip behind the excitation frequency by definition.  Typical slips are 0-5%.  The higher the mechanical loading, the higher the slip.
7000 RPM is not possible without either a variable frequency drive (VFD) or a gearbox.
Power
For simplicity, one can assume that the mechanical power out is about 90% of the electrical power in.  2 kW motor can therefore draw ~2.2 kW of real power.  With 3-phase 220V line voltage the current would be:
$$V_{phase} = \frac{V_{line}}{\sqrt3} = 127 Vrms$$
$$I_{phase} = \frac{P}{3V} = \frac{2200 W}{127 V*3} = 5.8 Arms$$
Answer: Induction motor speed is a matter of poles and frequency - on 50 Hz you'll get 3000, 1500, 1000 as you go from 2-pole to 4 pole to 6 pole. On 60 Hz its 3600, 1800 and 1200 - on 400 Hz its 24,000, 12,000 and 8000.
A variable frequency drive can provide a wide range of speeds, but it can also provide more speed than a motor may be designed for - if a motor purely intended to run on 60 HZ is attached to a VFD and wound up to 120 Hz, you might find the mechanical limits of strength in the rotor and destroy it (loud noises, sudden stops, great expense.) There are motors specifically made for VFD operation which are rated for higher operation speeds - while expensive as compared to a normal motor, they are cheap as compared to what can happen when a normal motor comes apart in use.
The other common option for higher-speed motors is not an induction motor - rather a brushed type DC or universal motor. On average these are fairly loud as compared to an induction motor, and there will be sparks from the brushes (and the brushes wear and need to be replaced) but they are a common approach to getting high speed operation, as seen in most portable saws, drills and routers, or small hand-held rotary tools.
For an application requiring a fixed 7000 or 7200 RPM speed, a simple belt & pulley arrangement to double the motor shaft speed is likely to be the most cost-effective and power efficient approach (gearboxes are relatively expensive and can also be surprisingly inefficient.)
Answer: Please comment on the following including if possible potential commercial applications.
We have just completed a working prototype that is comprised of two 1000W (1.34 hp each) induction type motors, which based on an efficiency of 0.885, equals to 1.18hp net for each motor. The technology is modular. The prototype contains two modules for proof of concept.
The RPM from the first motor (3,450) is transferred to the second motor, and then aggregates with the RPM from the second motor. The combined RPM of about 7,000 is evidenced on the rotor of the second motor.
This increase in RPM is not due to either modulation of frequency or by using different sized pulleys/gears. In addition to the accumulated RPM, the hp from both motors has also been aggregated. This  has been made possible due to way in which the RPM has been increased and accumulated, however combining the motors, the efficiency goes down somewhat to 0.78 (0.885 x 0.885), or a combined hp of 2.1hp (0.78 x 2.68hp).
The torque for the first motor is easily calculated using the formula ( hp x 5250)/RPM …. (1.18 x 5250) /3450 or 0.7754 ft-lb.
The torque for the combined motors (2.1 x 5250) / 7000 equals 1.575 ft-lb, however the RPM has increased from 3,450 to about 7000 RPM.
In other words, the prototype demonstrates an increase in the second motor of both RPM, hp  and torque.


Heat sink thermal resistance

Question: Is there any way to figure out the thermal resistance of a heat sink without using a datasheet or using it in an actual circuit? I mean, simply by knowing its dimensions and material.
Comment: Look at an online electronics catalogue, and match your heatsink to pictures and dimensions of the ones they sell, then compare specifications.
Comment: Does this answer your question? [How can complex shape's heat sink thermal resistance be determined](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/573262/how-can-complex-shapes-heat-sink-thermal-resistance-be-determined)
Comment: Does this answer your question? [Heatsink size calculation](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/597912/heatsink-size-calculation)
Comment: It's not that easy. The number of fins, the total surface area, the mass and the material properties all determine the actual thermal resistance. One thing you can do is to estimate by comparing to a known heatsink which has similar dimensions.
Comment: Simulations....
Comment: You can draw the profile and simulate in various software. Such as fusion360 or simscale. This costs a few dollars, but not too expensive.
Answer:
Is there any way to figure out the thermal resistance of a heat sink
without using a datasheet or using it in an actual circuit? I mean,
simply by knowing its dimensions and material.

Not really because if you don't use the data sheet you cannot know what size electrical device is meant to be accommodated. The surface area contact of the device to be fitted totally reshapes \$R_{TH}\$ - more surface area contact means lower \$R_{TH}\$ and less surface area contact means greater \$R_{TH}\$. So, you need to know things about the heatsink that cannot be necessarily determined by vision alone.

Is there any way to figure out the thermal resistance of a heat sink

\$R_{TH}\$ applies only to the specific component attached to it i.e. there are no \$R_{TH}\$ values for heatsinks without defining the physical interface between component and heatsink. Also, if the heatsink is asymmetrical then you won't get the same value of \$R_{TH}\$ when the device/component is mounted in a different position or face.

So, it's all about attaching your electrical device to the heatsink and getting the device to operate at a certain constant power. This is done by controlling the voltage and current to the component.
Stage 1
Put a constant power into that component with it unconnected to the heatsink. The temperature will stabilize at some point. Make sure it is less than the operating temperature for the device/component. Record that temperature.
That is your benchmark.
Stage 2
Now mount the component/device on the heatsink and repeat the test.
You can then calculate what \$R_{TH}\$ is from the power value and the two stabilizing temperatures. Heatsink and component orientation will matter.

Heat sink thermal resistance


How do I embed a link to an Opportunity in an email template?

Question: I created a workflow that emails our Director requesting his approval on a quoted project. He would like the ability to select a link that can take him directly to that Opportunity and would also like the ability to view the attached Excel spreadsheet with the quote information. Any suggestions are appreciated!
Answer: You could follow these steps for your requirement.

create a Custom formula field which will display Opportunity record as hyperlink
HYPERLINK( '/' + OpportunityId, Opportunity.Name,'_blank')
create a HTML email template and use that field as follows
Link to Opportunity: {!Quote.Custom_Opportunity_Id__c}
Select the template from your email.
Answer: Please try to use {!Opportunity.Link} in your email template which will include a link to that opportunity.
Hope this helps.
Answer: We have used this in our email templates:
Details: {!LEFT($Api.Partner_Server_URL_140, FIND(".com/",$Api.Partner_Server_URL_140)+3)}/{!relatedTo.Id}


What is the difference between folklore and fakelore?

Question: What is the difference between fakelore and folklore?
Comment: I'd never even *heard* of fakelore. I love learning new stuff. :)
Comment: @LaurenIpsum I'm glad you appreciate the question! I'm no expert, but if you want to learn more about the field of folkloristics, please feel free to ask any questions and I'll be happy to answer them.
Answer: First, a warning: the concept of fakelore is outdated and is no longer used by academics.
Folklore represents culture (e.g. stories, songs, and jokes) that are spread "person to person". Often this means oral tradition (i.e. culture that is spread by word of mouth), but folklore can also include things like internet culture, where culture is spread person to person through technology like email.
One of the problems that scholars of folklore face is that people have a tendency to claim that stories that were the work of a few artists actually represent oral tradition. Sometimes people will take existing folklore that was spread by word of mouth, but then modify it: the brothers Grimm are famous examples of this. Other times people will create entirely new stories by themselves but then pass them off as new traditions: famous examples of this include the Kalevala and the Paul Bunyan stories.
The folklorist Richard Dorson was very frustrated by the counterfeiting of oral tradition, and created the term "fakelore" to refer to stories that claimed to be oral tradition but were actually the work of a few people.
The problem with this split between folklore and fakelore is that fakelore can find its way back into the oral tradition. For example, although the story of Paul Bunyan mostly originated as advertising for logging companies, it eventually entered oral tradition in America. Another interesting example is the "Eagle Dance", which was taught to the Washoe Indians by a movie director, but since entered their oral tradition. It doesn't make sense to dismiss "fakelore", because in reality it plays a huge role in the creation of oral tradition.
Because of this, the concept of fakelore is no longer used by folklorists. It's OK to point out that oral tradition doesn't always originate from oral tradition. But the word fakelore is often used to imply that some oral traditions, just because they were originally the work of a few people, are therefore not "real" folklore. In that sense the concept of fakelore is deeply flawed.
If you are interested in learning more, Alan Dundes has an article titled "Nationalistic Inferiority Complexes and the Fabrication of Fakelore" that is available online at JSTOR. JSTOR is behind a paywall, but can be accessed for free from some local libraries.
Comment: Your footnote improves your definition of folklore, which is not restricted to the oral tradition (and includes what people put on top of Christmas trees), and because some practices transmitted at least partly orally are not folklore (such as many songs).
Comment: Dorson defines "fakelore" as "the presentation of spurious and synthetic writings under the claim that they are genuine folklore". So something like the "ploughman's lunch" (invented by advertisers of cheese in the 1950s) or the "full English breakfast", also known as the "full Scottish", etc., and first appearing as the "full American breakfast" (invented by advertisers of pork in the 1920s), wouldn't count because they are not written, although the name often is.
Comment: @TheEarth I'll edit this answer to (1) move my footnoted definition of folklore to the top of the answer, and (2) to clarify that the phenomenon of fakelore is mostly restricted to writings (e.g. stories) that claim to be exact recordings of folklore but are really based on artistic license. Since you know more about folklore than I do, is there anything else about this answer that I should edit?


Abstract delegate call

Question: So there is a way to call other contract using abstract prototype of that contract.
But what about delegate calls?
I need to split my huge contract into separate pieces.
So i can call my functions via delegate call (to make them able to change global state of main storage).
The problem is that unlike the simple call (using abstract method), i have to call my own functions via such ugly way:
contract_address.delegatecall(bytes4(sha3("foo(uint,uint)")),bar1,bar2);

Is there any way to perform abstract delegate call? Or maybe such plans to add this feature?
Thank you.
Answer: Using libraries should be able to help somehow. The problem is that from a library function you cannot access the contract state.
library Helper {
  function add(uint x, uint y) internal constant returns (uint) {
    return x + y;
  }
}

contract C {
  function doSomething(uint x, uint y) public returns (uint) {
    return Helper.add(uint x, uint y);
  }
}

Abstract delegate call


Time and Frequency Domain Relationship

Question: Why do we say that a good time response means a bad frequency response?
Comment: Hi! Can you please try to explain the terms "good" and "bad"? Tell us a few things about what kind of answer you're looking for or give an example of "good" and "bad" time and frequency response, respectively.
Comment: Hi! Welcome here. What does "good" and "bad" mean to you? My bet is that whoever said that meant "concentrated" or something for "good", but that's not inherently a given. However, even assuming that, this is overly broad. You've ever heard of the [Heisenberg-Gabor limit](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uncertainty_principle#Signal_processing)? (same thing exists under many names)
Comment: For example, a moving average digital filter is said to be a good smoother (time domain) but a bad low pass filter (frequency domain). The way I see it by smoothering the signal I have already achieved a low pass filtering.
Answer: These terms refer to the general duality properties of these two domains. It should be obvious that higher frequency components mean faster changes in time and lower rise/fall times. In most natural systems, some of these fundamental properties oppose each other:
Shorter rise time means more overshoot and higher settling times and vice versa; lower overshoot means a higher settling time as well as a higher damping factor resulting in a higher rise time. In general, achieving better frequency domain properties (in the sense of time domain duals) means worsening other time domain properties. Apart from that, in specific applications such as digital transmission, cleaner pulses (lower rise/fall time) means broader spectrum and frequency content, which is undesirable in the sense of bandwidth efficiency. But again there is no unique answer to what you have asked. Each application must consider its own tradeoffs.

Time and Frequency Domain Relationship


what does base.OnPreInit(e) mean?

Question: Any one could simply tell me what does base.OnPreInit(e) mean ?
Thank you
Answer: The OnPreInit method is called at the beginning of the page initialization stage.
When you are overriding this in your page, you'll have something like
protected override void OnPreInit(EventArgs e)
{
   base.OnPreInit(e);
   ...
   // do something else

}

where base.OnPreInit(e) calls the Page class's OnPreInit().
If you don't have extra functionality to add to your page then you don't have to override OnPreInit
Answer: When overriding methods e.g. OnPreInit in your example sometimes it is necessary to call the control/page base method, for this purposes you could just use base.OnPreInit(e) which will call the base class method.
Answer: base.OnPreInit(e) is a call to the OnPreInit() method of the base class for the page you are looking at.
'e' is the parameter that was passed in to your method (presumably OnPreInit() ) and it is passed through to the base class's method.

what does base.OnPreInit(e) mean?


Can one determine the meaning and truth value of counterfactual statements without invoking the existence of possible worlds?

Question: Usually, philosophers explain the meaning and truth value of counterfactual statements using possible world semantics. However, that approach requires one to accept the existence of possible worlds. Now, a disbeliever of possible worlds can simply bite the bullet and accept that, for example, counterfactual statements like "Unicorns could have evolved on Earth" and "I could have gone to the gym instead of writing this question" are, strictly speaking, false, even if they are useful in daily life. However, is there a middle way between these two extremes, such that statements like "Unicorns could have evolved on Earth" have meaning and a truth value, but do not require the ontological extravagance of the existence of possible worlds? And have any philosophers talked about and came up with a solution to this problem?
Comment: Possible worlds don't need to be thought of as actual worlds of universes. The term can also mean "states" or "scenarios" or "situations" or so on.
Comment: One no more needs to accept the existence of possible worlds to use them than to accept the existence of numbers to use arithmetic, or the existence of Middle Earth to talk about hobbits. Many approaches openly present possible worlds as merely linguistic constructions that stand for something else more elusive, see [IEP](https://iep.utm.edu/mod-meta/#H3). So possible worlds already supply counterfactuals with meaning and truth value, and without metaphysical commitments, it is just that this technically convenient surface semantics has little to do (on its face) with what they really express.
Comment: The problem with "possible worlds" is that it needs to be properly contained - otherwise, there might not be any agreement on whether something or anything is actually "exists in some possible world". If "possible world" just means "anything anybody can imagine", then it's not so useful.
Answer: There are a few things that can be said in answer to this question.

As has been pointed out in the comments, one does not need to believe that possible worlds have real existence in order to make use of them. Possible world semantics has proved highly useful, and not just for understanding counterfactuals, and many of the people who employ possible worlds think of them merely as information states or situations or scenarios. David Lewis is a realist about possible worlds, but he is in a minority in that view.

Not all accounts of counterfactuals make reference to possible worlds. One of the earliest attempts at a theory of counterfactuals, that of Nelson Goodman, regards them as propositions deduced from laws of nature. This is pretty implausible as it stands, since many counterfactuals have little or nothing to do with laws of nature. If I say, "If Fred had insulted me once more I would have punched him," this does not mean that my punching Fred is somehow deducible from laws of nature. For one thing, human behaviour is not that predictable, and for another that would be confusing the meaning of the conditional with the reason for accepting it. Also, we may wish to express counterfactuals that speak of universes with different laws of nature, or even different logics.

Other accounts treat counterfactuals as propositions that taken together with additional cotenable assumptions permit deduction of the consequent, e.g. Frank Veltman. Others again treat counterfactuals probabilistically, e.g. Ernest Adams and Dorothy Edgington. Some probabilistic accounts use possible worlds to define the sample space, so possible worlds can still creep back in, but they are not essential. Some accounts, e.g. that of Judea Pearl, specifically use Bayesian nets to understand counterfactuals in terms of interventions.

It is worth noting that not all theorists about conditionals treat them as having truth conditions. Some prefer to understand them in terms of assertability conditions. This view is particularly associated with Adams and Edgington. Also, many accounts treat counterfactuals as context-dependent, so it is not simple and straightforward to state under what conditions they hold.
Answer: The answer is trivially yes. In any case, as other commenters have...erm, commented, possible worlds terminology is metaphoric, and only an idiot, or an exceptionally clever philosopher such as David Lewis, would take it literally.
To take your example regarding unicorns...
To begin with, let us suppose that by 'unicorn' you mean a horse with a horn. That is, we are disregarding magical properties, pink fur, twinkly stars, the ability to utter phrases about the destiny of a chosen one, or any of the other nonsense that might be associated with unicorns by children susceptible to the marketing ploys of exploitative corporations such as Disney.
Whether unicorns could have evolved on Earth depends upon what version of Earth you have in mind. If you mean Earth populated by all the other life it has today, then one might simply argue that unicorns could not have evolved, on the grounds that if they could have they would have, and since they didn't ergo they couldn't have. Or you could take the view that horses obviously did evolve, as did other animals with a central horn, therefore it is not out of the question that a horned horse could have evolved had certain selection pressures existed. If you had any sense of intellectual rigour, you might feel obliged to bolster your claim by outlining the sorts of selection pressures that might have caused a long twisted horn to evolve from a more rudimentary bump on the head of some initial horse that began the evolutionary line through a random mutation, and you might marshal some form of argument about comparable dna structures in horses and rhinos, narwhals etc etc. Either way, you can leave aside all of the jargon about possible worlds and still have a meaningful discussion about truth values.
Comment: I've seen "possible worlds" used "correctly" in mathematics: if we fix a first order language, a world can be just a structure for that language (a set together with interpretations for the predicates and functions). Think of "structure" here as group, ring, field, ...
Comment: The trick is to severely limit what is "possible".


What does the electrum wallet file contains?

Question: I have been using electrum wallet and I heard that there exist a wallet file... but what does exactly contains? the private keys?
Answer:
I heard that there exist a wallet file

According to https://electrum.readthedocs.io/en/latest/faq.html#where-is-my-wallet-file-located

The default wallet file is called default_wallet, which is created when you first run the application and is located in the /wallets folder, inside the datadir.

what does exactly contains? the private keys?

It contains at least the seed and private keys

How is the wallet encrypted?
Electrum uses two separate levels of encryption:
Your seed and private keys are encrypted using AES-256-CBC. The private keys are decrypted only briefly, when you need to sign a
transaction; for this you need to enter your password. This is done in
order to minimize the amount of time during which sensitive
information is unencrypted in your computer's memory.
In addition, your wallet file may be encrypted on disk. Note that the wallet information will remain unencrypted in the memory of
your computer for the duration of your session. If a wallet is
encrypted, then its password will be required in order to open it.
Note that the password will not be kept in memory; Electrum does not
need it in order to save the wallet on disk, because it uses
asymmetric encryption (ECIES).
Wallet file encryption is activated by default since version 2.8. It
is intended to protect your privacy, but also to prevent you from
requesting bitcoins on a wallet that you do not control.

From what I have read, from version 2 the Electrum wallet file is in JSON format - so should be readable with a text editor / viewer.
If you see nothing other than unreadable base64 text (A–Z , a–z , 0–9 , + , / and =), it means the wallet is encrypted.


Show shutdown messages from last shutdown

Question: Where does Linux store the shutdown messages from last shutdown?
Comment: It doesn't. For Debian based distros (Ubuntu etc), see [here](http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/53252/how-to-read-the-messages-during-power-off) for how to read them.
Answer: The shutdown messages you see on the screen may or may not have been logged.  If they happen after the root filesystem is unmounted, they obviously can't be -- there's no where to save them at that point.
What there is could be anywhere (or nowhere) but usually you will find it in either /var/log/messages or /var/log/syslog.  An easy way to do this, presuming the system has since been rebooted, is to look for the 0.000000 timestamp used by the kernel when it starts, and scroll back.
For example, if you load less /var/log/syslog and go to the end with CtrlEnd(if it says "Waiting...", give it a second or two then ctrl-c to stop waiting), you can search backward with ? and the pattern 0.000+].  There will be a long sequence of lines with that in it.  Right before the first one you'll probably see to something to the effect that the system logger has started.  The stuff right before that is from the last shutdown.
Comment: I do not have have the `syslog` file.

If it matters, this is Fedora with systemd
Comment: You should have a `/var/log/messages`.  You can create a `/var/log/syslog` to get a higher level of detail by adding `*.*   -/var/log/syslog` to `/etc/rsyslog.conf` (under `## RULES ##`) and restarting the logger, `sudo systemctl restart rsyslog`.
Comment: None of these files are where you say they are for me. I can not find `/etc/rsyslog.conf`, so do I just make it?


How do I get the mean values that are greater than .5 for my model?

Question: I am trying to build a classification model. One of the variables called specialty has 200 values. Based on a previous post I saw, I decided I wanted to include the values that have the highest mean. I am thinking greater than 0.5. How would I filter the specialty to have only values greater than 0.5 for the mean?  I am trying to get my final dataset ready for machine learning.  Any advice is appreciated.
Answer: So if I understand you correctly you want to "one-hot-encode" or dummy-encode your variable "specialty" so that it goes from an interval scaled variable to a binary variable where 1 == >.5 and 0 == <=.5 correct?
So seeing as you are in python the following code would create a new variable that does what you want:
<code>import pandas as pd
import numpy as np

df2['specialty_binned'] = np.digitize(df2['specialty'],bins=[0.5], right = True)
</code>
This would create a new variable in your data frame called 'specialty_binned' that is only 1s and 0s with 1 being values above 0.5 in the old variable.
Comment: Right now, the specialty category has 200 different specialties. It is not an interval scaled variable. It is categorical variable right now with text. I want to associate each category with a number so I can build a classification model. I was thinking of using a mean encoder. However, I think it might be difficult to interpret the model then.
Comment: This is a completely different task. In this case you have a factor variable that cannot be simply represented by numbers. Especially if those 200 specialities don't follow a strict ordinal value like e.g. typical survey responses (disagree to agree). You will have to one-hot-encode this variable which results in 200 new variables that are 1/0 scaled. Because that's a lot of variables it's best to cluster those 200 specialties before you do that so that you might have only 50 or so new variables.


How to store Google Maps DrawingManager Circle overlay in PostgreSQL Postgis GEOMETRY(GEOMETRY, 4326)

Question: What is the correct way to store a Google Maps DrawingManager circle overlay? Should I just store the center as a POINT and the radius in a separate column or store a polygon using ST_Buffer()?
Answer: It kind of depends on you needs and dynamic nature of your points and buffer. If the buffer is dynamic I would store the point and make a view creating the buffer. If the buffer is static, you could store it as a polygon using ST_BUFFER(). Either way you can always extract the other.


Accessing data between user controls

Question: I am a beginner for Visual Studio C# 2008. Currently, I am creating the program which requires me to have user input in one User Control item and this data is needed to be passed on to another User Control for arithmetic manipulation.
My first User Control is called Structure_Data. I will be getting input values from the textboxes named LengthB_txt, WidthB_txt and HeightB_txt.
These value inputs in the textboxes above will be accessed in a new UserControl called CollectionArea.
I do not know how to connect the User controls as well as to access the data. In my User Control: Collection Area, to make my final result appear in the Ad_txt textbox, I did the following codes. However, I got error :

'WindowsFormsApplication1.Structure_Data.LengthB_txt'
  is inaccessible due to its protection level

Please help me. I am stuck! =( Thanks...

private void Ad_txt_TextChanged(object sender, EventArgs e)
    {
      //  const double PI = 3.14159265;
        double Lb;
        double Wb;
        double Hb;

        // Get the input value for Dimensions: Length
        Lb = Convert.ToDouble(StructDataPass.LengthB_txt.Text);
        Wb = Convert.ToDouble(StructDataPass.WidthB_txt.Text);
        Hb = Convert.ToDouble(StructDataPass.HeightB_txt.Text);

        double Ad_temp=0;
        double result_temp1=0;
        result_temp1 = Math.Pow(3 * Hb, 2);
        Ad_temp = Lb*Wb*6*Hb*(Lb+Wb)+(Math.PI)*result_temp1;
        Ad_txt.Text = Convert.ToString(Ad_temp);

    }

Answer: How about the following:

Create a class with a property for each control
Each usercontrol gets a reference to the class instance which would be initialised in the main form.
When a value changes in a user control raise an event which is caught my the main form
The other user control would be subscribed to that event and refresh its textbox

Accessing data between user controls


SQL/.NET TableAdapters - How do I strongly-type calculated columns in either the database or the DataSet?

Question: We use calculated columns in a few SQL Server 2005 tables which always return data of a specific type (bit, varchar(50), etc...).
These tables are consumed by a .NET data layer using strongly-typed datasets and tableadapters, however since the calculated columns are not constrained to a specific type (we always return a specific type, but we could return anything) .NET does not generate strongly-typed columns.
Three questions here:
 - The calcuated columns typically check that related records have specific values, or they return a single value from a related XML document using XPath.  Are calculated columns the proper tool for this, or is there a better way to return these related pieces of data?

My searches say no, but is it possible to strongly-type these columns at the database itself?
Is there a workaround inside of the Visual Studio DataSet designer that would allow me to set the proper types and maintain them across DataSet/TableAdapter updates (since the Designer will query the database to update it's schema)?

Thanks!
Answer: In the queries that you use to return these values, you can use the SQL CAST() function to cast them as whatever datatype you want.  I believe .NET should recognize the casted datatype and put that type in the dataset.
Answer: First, they do have a type.
Second, the SQL Server will tell clients the type if the client requests it, whether its a C API client, a C# client, a JDBC client, etc. Otherwise, the clients can't correctly cat the type.
Third, you can find out what type they have by looking at the information_schema.columns (or syscolumns) row for the calculated columns.
Fourth, you can use the CAST operator to cast these columns to any type compatible with their actual types.


Boosted Regression Trees in R

Question: As a general statistics question: When using BRTs should you avoid using strongly correlated variables the way you would in say, GLMs or multiple linear regression? Any useful references would be greatly appreciated.
Comment: For prediction it doesn't matter if you use colinear predictors - colinearity is a problem for $\beta $ but not for $ x_i^T\beta $
Answer: Generally, tree related methods are quite robust to redundant features. Basically, worst-case scenario you will be increasing computing time, but prediction-wise, you'll be quite safe. The problem with GLM's etc. is basically that redundant features can cause overfitting, since the number of parameters increases with the number of features.
Indeed, for a decision tree, if say you duplicate a feature (worst possible case) then if the feature is selected to make a split, the other will never be used below the split (at least not for the same split), as it will never reduce impurity.
Similarly for correlated features, if one feature is chosen to make a split, the other will be less likely to be chosen as there are less chance it will reduce impurity if chosen.
So for gradient boosting you're in the exact same situation. In fact, adding the extra feature can never be cumbersome : when the number of trees increases, and if reasonable shrinkage is selected, eventually both features will be expressed as fully as possible. But they shouldn't "counteract" as it happens in parametric models.

Boosted Regression Trees in R


Are there any mechanics for learning the true name of a fallen?

Question: In World Of Darkness each Demon possesses a true name and knowing their true name allows you to exercise control over them. There is a mention of being able to study a fallens mannerism, actions and so on in order to discover their true name and I wanted to ask if there were mechanics for doing so or if it was up to storyteller interpretation?
Answer: There are mechanics!
Demons
First of all, a true name can be given voluntarily by a Fallen.1

A demon's names (both the Celestial Name and the True Name) are crucial aspects of
his identity. A demon's Celestial Name is essentially reflective of his title, station or task as defined
at the dawn of Creation. One could compare it to
the original derivations of Western surnames. A
person named "Miller," for instance, owes her surname to an ancestor that ground grain for a living at
some point in the past. The True Name of a demon,
however, is much more inscrutable. It's a description of his very soul, the equation of all the sounds,
vibrations, numbers and syllables that add up to the
sum of his very being. 2

But even Demon contains rules on how to discover that:

a being with the
means to investigate the character can discover her
"new" True Name by the means described on p. 256
of Demon 3

That section lays out foundations to (re)create a True Name:

What kinds of activities can yield clues to a True
Name? Here are some examples:

Looking through occult texts to find names of
demons and matching them up with your subject's acts
(Intelligence + Occult). Just finding the right books would be a story in itself, though, as tomes of true occult
knowledge are rare and jealously guarded by their owners.
Investigating a crime scene, looking for the
subtle touches that betray the criminal's personality.
(Perception + Investigation)
Interrogating the demon's followers, finding
out how they address her in their blasphemous rituals.
(Manipulation + Intimidation)
Ransacking the demon's sanctum, finding her
personal belongings and seeing what they say about
her. (Perception + Empathy)
Observing the demon's handiwork. Every time a
demon performs an invocation, she leaves an imprint
in the fabric of reality, similar to a psychic fingerprint.
(Perception + Occult)

Players are bound to come up with other ideas for
learning fragments of True Names, and Storytellers
should decide if an idea is valid and what traits are
involved. The difficulty of these rolls is always high —
usually 8, possibly 9 if the action is particularly unusual.4

Mummies
If you happen to be one of the Reborn and possess Nomenclature, it's just two skills you need to have, play some story and spend XP, then you get the True Name. With that, you can do many things besides just the stuff from the Demon book, because Nomenclature requires True Names. To learn a Demon's True Name requires you to learn their personal name first (requiring Subterfuge 2+) and then follow up by deciphering the complex supernatural name from that (requiring Occult 4+). That is a longer process and requires understanding the Fallen's true self, so extensive observation and maybe contact with them or their products is needed - and then spending some experience.5

1 - Demon the Fallen: Player Guide, p.7.
2 - Demon the Fallen: Player Guide, p.19.
3 - Demon the Fallen: Player Guide, p.125.
4 - Demon the Fallen, p.256.
5 - Mummy the Resurrection, p.125: Learning True Names.
Answer: Entirely up to ST interpretation.
You could make it an extended roll with Int+Investigation or the like, but only if they knew a certain facet of angelic/ demonic lore and language.
Research and luck are the keys, and even then, if the person trying doesn't get it juuuust right, the Fallen will be... irritated.
Comment: Your answer could be improved with additional supporting information. Please [edit] to add further details, such as citations or documentation, so that others can confirm that your answer is correct. You can find more information on how to write good answers [in the help center](/help/how-to-answer).
Answer: There are no official mechanics, so it's up to ST. But I can give you my way of thinking about this:
From the lore (Demon the Fallen) standpoint, imo it would be extremely difficult and require inhuman levels of knowledge both linguistic and magical. In my games it would be probably possible only for Demons, Mages and maybe Mummies to do with relative ease, as it needs to be "said" both in physical realm as well as it needs to "vibrate" through the whole tapestry of the universe by magical means.
Vampires have all the time in the world to study linguistics so their ability to pronounce Demon's name would be dependent on how exactly their blood magic compares to other forms of supernal powers and how exactly Vampires are able to practice it. Bacialy you need to decide if blood magic is closer to Linear Magic of mortals or does it have any semblance of "awakened wisdom" in it's practice.
Mages are the closest to understanding the true nature of the universe so their research and pronunciation could be close to natural.
From that I would rule that the closer the pronunciation is to the correct one the better the effects you can get from it. While even a mortal can linguistically get it close enough to technically summon a demon, he would have to prepare a lot harder and be a lot luckier than a Mage.
Comment: This sadly directly contradicts the rules in the Demon book and Player's guide.
Comment: Oh, I'd be sure to check them out. You are right that they are guidelines in DTF and I was wrong that there is none of them at all. However they are only vague examples of story related beats and tests. So I hope you can see how I didn't really remember them as full fledged mechanic.
When it comes to mummy - wow that is cool... Nomenclature for the win !


Story about dead people coming back for a limited time

Question: I have a very vague memory of a novel/short story/film/perhaps even graphic novel, where dead people were able, for some time after their death, to return to their family and speak with them for a limited amount of time. I seem to remember an image of people in a kind of cemetery looking at some device where dead people manifested, but it is well possible that I am mixing up more than one story with a similar idea.
Answer: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ubik
I believe the story you are talking about is Ubik by Philip K Dick. A fantastic story.

Runciter runs the company with the assistance of his deceased wife Ella, who is kept in a state of "half-life", a form of cryonic suspension that gives the deceased person limited consciousness and communication ability.
Comment: Yes, I believe that this it. I have read it many years ago, and probably have mixed it up in the meantime with other similar - or not so similar - ideas (perhaps cemeteries with holograms and the like).
Comment: @DaG: You should select it as the correct answer if you decide it really is the answer. :)
Comment: You are right. I was waiting a little more time in the off-chance some other suggestion makes ring a (louder) bell... :-)
Answer: The TV series Pushing Daisies was also about people returning from death for a minute, although it was because the protagonist had that power to solve misteries.
Answer: In the first episode of Torchwood they used a device (a mysterious glove) to bring people back to life for a short amount of time to interrogate a murder victim.  It was time-limited, maybe 30 seconds, and had to be done soon after death (no more than a day IIRC).
The glove was also used in a later episode where it's matching glove was found with a different power.
Comment: I doubt this was it - that glove was only ever used at the scene, and was limited to about 30 seconds, if I recall - though I never saw the later episode.
Answer: Is it possibly "Beautiful Stuff" by Susan Palwick?  The dead in this can be revived, and will remember their lives and can communicate with people.
They do, however, tend to be easily distracted.  The main character is one who tries very hard to communicate important messages to his wife and to humanity at large, after a 9/11-esque attack.
It's included in the collection The Living Dead, which has a large number of zombie-related short stories.


How to get access to my ftp server through internet

Question: I have been able to create my ftp server with vsftpd and I can get access to it locally, I mean without internet...but I want to have access to it over tcp or internet...help?
Comment: There is no clear answer to that as there might be a lot of difficulties in your way. For instance, your machine could be sitting behind a NAT router and the ports are not being forwarded. If you are going to forward ports, make sure that the server is absolutely tight in terms of security. Google "How to secure my ubuntu server" or similar searches to find guides on that.
Comment: Hello, I'm not able to answer this. Not sure about tethering and android using ftp. I have only setup tethering on androids before.
Answer: You can use some software for example filezilla for connecting to your ftp server.
download it from there:
filezilla
Answer: This is really a complex question.
Yes, you are correct, it is easy to do when you are on same network inside house, work, etc...
The vague answer is that if you have a router, you will have to get logged into it, open a port to be able to get connected, but that may still be a problem because of ISP provider changing IP Addresses on you randomly.
You will probably have to use a online dns service as well as possibly a few other tricks.
Depending on what your needs are a cloud drive service is much easier solution.
Comment: about the router thing...I don't have one...instead I use a samsung phone over usb for internet access....any solution to that?....
Answer: Just read your comment about the samsung phone.
This app says it makes it possible to forward ports on a phone tethering connection. It may be what you need. I have no direct experience using it:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=at.bherbst.net&hl=en
--
Original answer:
To help you out, we need more information. Please provide us with answers to the following:
Output of ifconfig on the ftp server:
<code>ifconfig
</code>
Do you have access to the configuration of your network router?
Is this going to be a publicly accessable FTP, or do you want to limit access and is security a concern?


Should I reinforce the floor over my basment to tile bathrooms?

Question: I want to tile my bathrooms in the house I'm remodeling. They are over a basment with 2x8 joists 16" on center. The span over the basement is around 12ish feet. I put 3/4 OSB and plan to put 1/2 backer and tile. Will this work as is or should I add a 4x4 beam under around the midway point with a 4x4 to the floor of the basment. My wife would rather not have a beam in the middle of the basment but if it's necessary I would rather do it
Comment: Sometimes your house just isn't made for certain things.   There is pure rubber clicklock that looks great for bathrooms.   I would look into other options before adding a beam to just tile a bathroom.
Comment: How is your OSB attached to the joists?  Laid on, or screwed in?
Comment: Layed on and screwed down with decking style screws
Answer: Floor joists can bend (deflect) without breaking. However, certain kinds of flooring cannot deflect much or they'll crack (or the grout joints between them will crack).
Each material is rated for maximum deflection. Ceramic tile happens to be one of those materials that cannot deflect much without cracking.
At a 12'-0" span, most lumber species will deflect too much. However, here are a few things to consider:
1) at 11'-0" most lumber species with a "standard" grade (No. 2 & better) will work.
2) span distance is measured from face of support to face of support. That is to say, it's the "clear span".
3) calculations are an average. That is to say, they use 40 lbs. per square foot for Live Load AND 10 lbs. per square foot for Dead Load. I suspect your live load will be less (take your weight plus your wife's weight and divide by the room area), but your dead load is greater (weight of tile, mortar base, underlayment, subfloor, joists, ceiling below (if any), etc. )
If your span is 11'-8" or so and you do not weigh 350 lbs. each, I suspect you're fine.  I'd go look at each joist and see if there are any large knots (especially loose knots). If not, the grade could be No. 1 or select structural and you're probably ok.
As an alternative to adding a beam in the basement (happy wife, happy life) you could sister a joist to each of the 5-6 joists in the immediate area.
Comment: The tiles to ceilings don't really count for the dead load - they will be present when the grout hardens, so the grout will set with the deflection they impose.  What cracks grout is *changes* in the deflection.
Comment: I was going to suggest sistering the joists as well.
Comment: By "sister a joist" do you mean add and there joist in between each joist?
Comment: @CharlesParker Yes, adding a joist between each joist , but it will need to be secured to the floor system by either having the subfloor nailed into it or nailing the new joist to one of the existing joists.
Answer: When I tiled my kitchen, I used this deflection calculator to see if my joists would be okay. https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl
Double-check it for yourself, but it seems that you would have too much deflection and should consider addressing that before installing the tile. If your joists are 11 feet from the supports, it would be okay for tile. I only mention this because you are close to being okay and said it was 12ish.


What is the meaning of 'scandalous' associated with the crucifixion of Jesus?

Question: There is a song, "Beautiful Scandalous Night." Also, I have heard this term used with regards to the crucifixion. I assume this does not have the colloquial meaning. What does it mean?
Comment: I'm sure it has the normal meaning. The cross is a scandal because the perfect Son of God was killed.
Comment: The song is clearly talking about the  crucifixion, and nothing else, so incarnation may be the wrong term here. Night and incarnation immediately suggests Jesus' birth, which is not relevant to the scandal, although it was scandalous in a smaller way, as the humility of Jesus the king. The crucifixion took place during the day, not at night. The songwriter may have thought of the three hours of darkness or darkest moment in history, but the symbolism of night seems confusing here.
Comment: fixed the word incarnation for crucifixion. Makes way more sense.
Answer: Perhaps the closest biblical connection is to 1 Corinthians 1:23:

we preach Christ crucified, a stumbling block to Jews and folly to Gentiles (ESV)

Ravi Zacharias makes this connection in an article entitled "The Scandal of the Cross":

To the Greek, the cross was foolishness. To the Jew, it was a stumbling block. What is it about the cross of Christ that so roundly defies everything that power relishes? Crucifixion was humiliating. It was so humiliating that the Romans who specialized in the art of torture assured their own citizenry that a Roman could never be crucified. But not only was it humiliating, it was excruciating. In fact, the very word "excruciating" comes from two Latin words: ex cruciatus, or out of the cross. Crucifixion was the defining word for pain.

Mark Baker and Joel Green, in Recovering the Scandal of the Cross, also see a connection between this passage and the "scandal" of the crucifixion:

Paul himself provides evidence that we have too easily made sense of the scandal of the death of God's Messiah.  In 1 Corinthians 1:18–25, Paul outlines a perspective on the cross many of us have learned to overlook.  Here he testifies to the lunacy of the cross for the first-century Roman, matched by its ignominious character among the Jewish people.  [...] In Paul's argument with the Corinthians the cross does not have the appearance of "good news" but of absurdity. (33)

And finally, D. A. Carson titles his 2010 book on the crucifixion and resurrection Scandalous, emphasizing the ironies and absurdities associated with the crucifixion (cf. Matthew 27, Romans 3, and Revelation 12).  So to many Christian writers, the typical understanding of the word scandalous as "shocking" and "upsetting" (see Merriam-Webster) is perfectly, even eminently, applicable to the cross.
Comment: To your point, the Greek word "skandalon," from where we get "scandal" means stumbling block as well (http://biblehub.com/greek/4625.htm)