Welcoming Jewish, Christian, Atheist and other viewpoints in questions

Question: How do we ensure that we accomplish our stated purpose of welcoming Jewish, Christian, Atheist and other viewpoints in questions? Does this mean that every question should welcome any perspective (that takes seriously the process of understanding the Biblical texts), or that as long as we have a diversity of questions, some welcoming certain perspectives and some others, that meets our goal?
Answer: Perversely, insisting that every question should welcome any perspective will reduce the diversity we have rather than increase it. Consider this question:

How was Psalm 22 understood by Jewish tradition before the birth of Jesus? Was it interpreted messianically? What pre-Christian sources discuss Psalm 22?

Insisting that "every question should welcome any perspective" would exclude this entire class of questions and further narrow what is already a fairly narrow scope here. It would reduce the site's interest to key groups of people it is currently interesting to: those who have these very specific (and sometimes very interesting) questions like the one above.
The text on the help pages...

We welcome Jewish, Christian, Atheist and other viewpoints as long as they take seriously the process of understanding the Biblical texts.

...is, in context, a statement of both openness and 'closedness'. It isn't the stated aim of the site to be 'neutral' or to provide 'a level playing field' to those of all or no religion, but to explicitly define the site's scope in a non-religious terms. It could be paraphrased like this:

Contributions here are welcome from anyone without any requirements regarding your religion, but rather that the processes of understanding the text are respected. In other words you don't have to believe in or presuppose any particular 'truth' when asking or answering a question, but you can't assume it is all nonsense.

If it happens that the vast majority of those interested in the topic are from one or two religions groups, that doesn't mean we have failed. If very few atheists want to contribute here that doesn't mean we have failed. However if atheists who are interested in the text (perhaps considering it a fascinating work of literature), do not contribute here because their contributions are attacked for not being religions, then we have failed.
We recently had an agnostic contributor for a short time and I was encouraged to see both that he was interested and knowledgeable in the subject, and that his (well written and well sourced) contributions were well received: this gives me added confidence that we are on the right track.
Comment: @JohnMartin as an Eastern Orthodox Christian, I would *love* to see more questions about Apocryphal texts! And feel free to use whichever translation you're comfortable with, just let us know which one you're using. There may be some who object, but the majority of us who like to *upvote* good questions and answers don't evaluate posts on the basis of one's religious background. We evaluate the content by how well it shows its work. So please, by all means, use your NAV and ask about Apocryphal texts!
Comment: This is just something I've thought about as a Catholic and newer user at BH.  Maybe I'm wrong, but while everyone in Meta may be able to be respectful of other beliefs and religions in their questions and answers, I don't think every BH main user is able to do that.  As a Catholic I've just decided to no longer use quotes from my NAV Bible; I just use the KJV instead.  Also, I would not ask a question about the 7 books in my NAV that aren't in others' Bibles.
Comment: @JackDouglas my only caveat to this is that a question should not ask for a specific religious perspective. That is what C.SE and MY.SE are for.
Answer: The OP is free to give research delimitations to focus the question
OPs should feel free to respectfully state their preferences. An OP shouldn't specifically ask for a modern religious interpretation of a text (i.e. "I only want Christian/Jewish perspectives"—they can get this at C.SE or MY.SE), but they could ask that answers avoid certain controversies or positions that they view as tangential or irrelevant to their question. It is preferred that the OP not eliminate entire religious perspectives (I don't want to know what Christians think), but they can emphasize that they are not looking for interpretations with which they are already familiar. This helps folks know when they might be wasting their time providing an answer that the OP will not find useful. The key is to do this respectfully, without disparaging a perspective.
This is part of initial research effort and can be expressed as a research delimitation. In formal research, a delimitation is a characteristic selected by the researcher to define the boundaries of the study. It's like saying, 'I've already researched this perspective, I'm looking for something I don't know', NOT 'I disagree with this perspective, so I don't want to hear it.' The former is a friendly way of saying, "It's not that this perspective isn't relevant, it's just that you'd be wasting your time responding because I already know about it and am looking for something else." The latter shifts the emphasis from the text to those things to which the text applies in modern religious groups. For instance, the OP could state, "answers should emphasize the sociopolitical setting of this text and its rhetorical meaning to the original hearers, not later eschatalogical readings with which I am already familiar").
As an example. I believe the following question is on topic:

Pre-Christian, Jewish interpretation of Psalm 22 — The first line makes it clear that "How was Psalm 22 understood by Jewish tradition before the birth of Jesus?" is not asking for a modern Jewish perspective, but rather it seeks to understand the text as its original audience (which consisted of early Jews) would have. This is a great question.

Many good answers already delimit eisegesis and anachronistic readings of Biblical texts. The reality is that OPs shouldn't have to give delimitations in many cases, because the answers that are generally best received here stick to the text and delimit eisegesis and anachronistic readings anyways. For many types of questions, modern religious interpretations are tangential thoughts (they are welcomed, but shouldn't be the entire post). Even so, some hermeneutics do view the text through the lens of modern religious beliefs, and these are welcome so long as they show their work.
We should avoid the fallacy that we can somehow require diversity. We certainly welcome diverse perspectives, but what if some questions only have Christian perspectives? We can't control whether or not Jewish, atheist, and other contributors post answers or not. Neither should we expect every OP to find every perspective useful. The key is they we are respectful of other perspectives and acknowledge that other users may find them to be useful answers—even if we don't.
Comment: Your use of the terms "eisegesis and anachronistic" in this otherwise useful post is pejorative: you appear to be denigrating certain hermeneutics as a result.
Comment: @JackDouglas that was the reason for my hermeneutic caveat, to make it clear this was not my intent: "Even so, some hermeneutics do view the text through the lens of modern religious beliefs, and these are welcome so long as they show their work."


How to report suicidal comments on YouTube?

Question: As well as contacting authorities, what option should I click?
Answer:
Suicide and self-injury
Content that promotes self-harm or is intended
to shock or disgust users is not allowed on YouTube. We do allow users
to post content discussing their experiences with depression, self
harm, or other mental health issues.
What to do if you see this content
If you come across content in which
someone expresses suicidal thoughts or is engaging in self-harm,
please contact local authorities and flag the video to bring it to our
immediate attention. We reach out to these individuals with resources,
and work with suicide prevention agencies to provide assistance when
possible.
https://support.google.com/youtube/answer/2802245?hl=en

Note that some people are of the opinion that this is not the appropriate path to follow (see e.g. this Concerned About Reporting Options for Suicidal Users Google Product Forum post), but that does not change what Google recommends.


Why do some aircraft have multiple switches for the landing lights?

Question: A question just popped into my mind: Why does an A320 overhead panel have 2 landing lights switches? What's the logic behind that? Why isn't there only a single switch to turn on both landing lights?
Comment: It's not unique to the A320. Older 737s and 747s have 4, a 777 has 3!
Answer: On a dark morning preflight check, I can verify that the lights all work by turning each one on, one at a time, without leaving the flight deck. Less lifespan on the bulbs & less disruption to the ramp to have several quick flashes of light within a few seconds, than turning everything on, walking outside to observe everything, and then going back inside.
Plus, it's probably a hold-over from days of minimal automation (think, 727 Flight Engineer panel - now entirely replaced by automation & a few switches on the overhead panel) when each {whatever} had its own switch.
I could get creative & invent another scenario or two when I want "this" but not "that" light on, but the preflight is probably the best example of that.
Comment: You've got up votes, so this makes sense to some, but I'm not following you or seeing how this answers the question. If you can see the lights from the flight deck, would you not be able to see them if one switch turned them on instead of 2 or more switches?
Comment: @FreeMan, if I turn on 'the' switch for 'this' light & things light up, I know it - singular - is on. If one switch turns on multiple lights pointing in roughly the same place, then seeing that area light up means that at least 1 light is working, but not necessarily all of them.
Comment: Each bulb has it's own switch and the coverage area of each bulb may overlap enough not to be able to tell them apart. Got it. See, I'm not a pilot, so I don't know these things...
Answer: Some aircraft have multiple landing lights fitted to them.  Often larger aircraft have some of the landing and taxi lights attached to the landing gear and some landing lights are located in the aircraft structure behind transparent aerodynamic fairings.  This allows the crew to still make use of landing lights once the gear is retracted (the gear is usually retracted once airborne and in a continuous climb and extended at the FAF on an instrument approach).
Which reminds me of a "there I was..." story of mine.  I was flying around San Diego one overcast and cloudy night on a local IFR practicing instrument approaches into the smaller airports around KSAN (not a great idea BTW) in a Cessna 182T.  It was a busy night with multiple heavy arrivals into KSAN that evening and Miramar was busy with departures and launches as well as an emergency.  I was returning from Brown (KSDM) back to plane's base at Montgomery (KMYF) when I got the following radio call:
"Cessna xxx, traffic 2 o'clock, three miles at 5000.  Boeing 737.  Report them in sight."
"Cessna xxx, no joy.  I'm in IMC."
Now you hope the controllers are professional here - it is a major airport in Class B airspace - and can keep us separated.
And it was about that time that I saw two brilliant white beams of light piercing the clouds and passed right overhead.
Well, there's the 737.  He was not at a safe separation and pretty damned close.  If he had the gear down he might have left tire tracks over the wing of my airplane.
Answer: Safety and redundancy (is that redundant?). As a couple examples, if one of the switches breaks, you only lose that one light instead of all of them. These switches do break too, they get flipped multiple times every day and are in pretty harsh environments. Also, you could get a short circuit in one of the lights, or a light circuit.  Again, having separate switches allows you to turn off only the problem light, while keeping the rest on.
Comment: And yet Airbus replaced the switches with just a single one on all newer models (A330 upwards). I guess they don't break that often...
Comment: They may have internal logic to bypass malfunctioning circuits, guess they're banking on their switches being invulnerable.  I'd venture to guess that I've seen switches break in every type of airplane I've flown.
Answer: Most of the jets that I fly have their landing lights wired through the down locked switches on the main gear.  This means the landing light automatically turns off as the gear is raised.
It also means this is one of the ways the crew can determine if a main gear is down and locked if they have conflicting information in the cockpit.  It is easier to turn off all lights except the one landing light in question and ask tower if they see any lights than to have both landing lights on and ask the question if they see one landing light.  There is no ambiguity in the first question.  There could be in the second question.
Comment: But in a small plane (where the gear is always down), I often turn the landing light on when near airports, just for visibility.  I see commercial jets doing the same thing, turning landing lights on maybe 15-20 miles from the airport, long before the gear is lowered.
Comment: True, but recognition is the primary purpose of the landing light in a small plane, too.  I can certainly land at a lighted airport without the landing light - and have, a couple of times, 'cause the darned things fail quite often - but I'd be very reluctant to try a night landing without runway lights.
Comment: Those typically aren't landing lights but recognition lights.  They are designed to make the airplane more visible.
Comment: No, they're landing lights. At my carrier, we have the fixed  landing lights on below 18,000', day + night. The retractable landing lights are extended + on when the flaps are out. But they're all *landing lights*.
Comment: @RalphJ Which aircraft are you referring to?
Comment: @wbeard52   The B-737
Comment: On all the corporate jets I fly, they are called recognition lights and we land with that light on.  Most likely, boeing calls both types of lights landing lights.  It appears to me from your description the operation is the same.


Not able to access WP admin Page, redirected and a drop down login menu appears 401 error

Question: I have an issue reaching my Wordpress login page. http://www.everydaytherapy.ie/wp-admin
I am redirected and a drop down menu appears to login in. But not the proper Wordpress login screen (check the URL yourself). I still tried to login but my details didn't work for it. It would just reset. I have tried deleting the .htaccess file, adding the URL's to the config.php file and anything else I could find online. I went into phpMyadmin and the tables seem correct. I deactivated all my plugin's and even my theme and still the same issue.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Answer: It looks like this is a password set up in the .htaccess file or somewhere else on the server. The best thing to do is to contact your web host to see if they can remove it - otherwise, you can delete the .htaccess file in your install which might get around it.
Comment: Thanks a million for the reply. I have tried deleting the .htaccess file from the root folder. But still have the issue. Would there be another .htaccess file some where else as well?
Comment: Hmm, there could be another one higher up in the file structure or in another directory, but usually they don't get accidentally put there - it's a pretty deliberate security setup.

You might want to look for and try removing `.htpasswd` files if you can find it - otherwise contacting your webhost would be the next step, since they could probably locate what's causing the problem and help fix it. Let me know if this works!
Answer: I contacted my web hosting provider about this issue. Because I was out of my native country (Ireland) and in the USA trying to access the admin page and extra layer of security was initiated automatically. They gave me the login details and I was able to get in without a bother.
Thanks a million regardless Daniel!


What is the most durable wood to use for an outdoor swing set

Question: I'm looking to build an outdoor swing set for my kids in the garden. I'd like to know what is the most durable wood to use that doesn't warp or bend. I've been down to the big department stores to get wood, but it is mostly warped already and it has been difficult to find a quality wood.
Comment: Did you look for a local wood mill, lumber mill or anything similar?  It's basically a place where they cut their own wood and sell it.  It's probably the best place to look for wood supplies and guidance too.
Answer: I would highly recommend Cedar.  Similar to Redwood, it is resistant to insects and rot.  If you can source it, Eastern White Cedar is a wonderful wood to make a play set out of, as it wont give splinters as easily as many woods will.
I went a bit overboard on the play set I built last summer.  I went with rough cut western red cedar 4x4s, and jointed/planed them down to about 3 3/4" x 3 3/4".  This allowed me to end up with very square members.  This was necessary as I did everything using mortise and tenon joinery (yes, I went overboard).
The primary problem with cedar warping/twisting is when it is unsupported.  Once supported properly (i.e.- assembled as a structure), the warping/twisting is minimal.
Comment: I like cedar for these type of projects. Just be ssure to use large stock as cedar is soft and not strong unless built properly.  + 1 vote
Comment: Went overboard? No. Had fun!
Comment: 99% of my decks are built with PT structure and cedar everyting else. Cedar is very stable outdoors compared to other types of lumber (like pine). Clear Vertical Grain western red cedar is probably my favourite thing to work with.
Answer: If your budget allows it redwood specifically heartwood. It's resistant to insects and rot and gives a good finish! If you need something a bit cheaper go for cypress again resistant to insects and rot. The costs go down but you do loose out a bit! After that its really a case of pressure treated woods which I don't have a lot of faith in!
Comment: What don't you have faith in regarding PT lumber?  Strength?  Rot/insect resistance?
Comment: My in-laws have a deck made of PT lumber. UV is in the middle of destroying it. It may be resistant to moisture and insects, the that chemical treatment doesn't do anything for sunlight. And besides, those chemicals are nasty. Do you really want your kids playing on something with them in it?
Answer:
I built this swing about 8 years ago and if I remember correctly I just used Pine, because it fit my budget at the time. If I were to do it again I might have spent more and used redwood or cedar as some others have suggested. When I used to build decks we would always try and use redwood or trex, but both of those are more expensive.
One thing I did do that you should do no matter what kind of wood you use is to seal it. I used a really good protective paint that also contained sealant and some UV protective solution and the swing is still in pretty good shape after 8 years. However, this swing is pretty beefy (I used 6x6 posts and 6x10 beams) so warping wasn't really that much of an issue for me, just a little splintering here and there.
Another thing you can do is put some Boracare on it. It's perfect for keeping all wood-eating pests away from wooden outdoor structures, like swings.
Answer: Use pressure treated lumber it will last longer than cedar and don't worry about splinters , believe me I have used cedar and after 10 years it rots at the bottom or any where water can get trapped every year or so run a hand sander over it if you're concerned about splinters
Comment: This Answer contradicts another answer that was accepted 11 years ago (as well as 2 more answers) and does not cite any sources. Please take the [tour] to find out more about expectations of support in Answers on DIY.SE.


Do cats play wheels like hamsters?

Question: I know it is common for hamsters to run on a wheel, do cats also interested in such running wheels?
Comment: both our cats use their wheel every day, best purchase we made for them - might be to do with their age as well as they are still kittens. We didn't train them to use it and they had it worked out within the day
Answer: Cat wheels are fairly well known among Bengal cat enthusiasts, as the outcross with the Asian Leopard Cat has given them much more energy than a typical house cat.
The owners of the Maclaw Wheel (a wheel manufacturer in UK) state:

Unfortunately we are unable to tell you 100% if your cat will use our
  wheel, but with that said, ANY cat has the potential, it really just
  depends on the cat and how much effort you are willing to put in.
Some breeds of cat no matter what the age will just use the cat wheel
  with very little training...
The breeds we have much success with are.

Bengal (inc early gen F1-F4)
Toyger
Savannah
Egyptian Mau
Russian Blue
Abyssinian
Siamese
Maine Coon

You should still keep in mind, there are no guarantees that your cat
  will use the wheel, each and every cat is different and you need to
  consider the personality of your cat when purchasing a wheel.

Another cat wheel manufacturer, One Fast Cat, suggests that the following qualities are important to determine before purchasing a cat wheel.

There are two ways to determine if the wheel will work for your cat.:
The first one is to determine the energy level of your cat. If they
  have a moderate to high energy level, then the wheel will be good for
  them to be able to expend some of that energy. An example of moderate
  to high energy is if your cat is inclined to race through the house in
  short spurts.
The second thing to consider if the wheel will be a good fit is if
  your cat is trainable. A good way to test this is to see if you can
  get your cat to jump up and down from a chair with the use of a toy or
  treat as incentive. Or, if your cat is capable of anticipating needing
  to do specific things in order to receive a reward they want. For
  example, if you require them to go to a specific spot to eat at a
  certain time of day, or act a specific way before they get to receive
  a treat or new toy. These are indicators of a cat who is capable of
  learning how to be trained.

So, to summarize, cats that are high energy and trainable (easier if they're motivated by food or other rewards) may be interested in a cat wheel.
I personally suspect they aren't common because they are more expensive than many other cat toys (wand toys can vary between $5-20, while the wheels are several hundred dollars). In addition, they can require a large amount of space, and create some noise.
Answer: We just purchased a wheel for our bengal kittens, age 6 months and 7 months. They both have lots of energy and are highly trainable, one of them is extremely treats motivated and the other is toy/attention motivated.  We got the wheel two days ago and have been working with them a bit each day and they both will run on the wheel when we are there training them. They haven't gone to the wheel on their own yet, but I suspect after more training sessions, they will start to use it. They both still have LOTS of energy!
Answer: I have 4 cats: 2 Persians and 2 Ragdolls. Believe it or not, the Persian cats enjoy their cat wheel even more than my Ragdolls. They all use it and enjoy it, but the Persians are just the queen and king of the wheel! :-)
Answer: No, not usually. Although , there are a few videos on YouTube showing cats on treadmills...but this is the exception.  You do need to be sure your inside kitty has plenty to do... Lots of toys, scratchers, tall cat trees, and high places to jump and watch the "goings on" of the home.  This is sufficient.  No wheel needed.
Answer: I've never seen any cat-sized wheels, so I don't know. I'd be a bit surprised, but cats are often surprising. I suspect treadmills work better for critters with either smaller brains, or larger ones.
A better alternative may be small lightweight balls that they can chase around the house. Or manipulate a strung, wand, or laser dot for them to pounce upon. Or give them things to climb. (My two will occasionally chase each other, or chase something entirely imaginary.)
(A cat might be fascinated by a gerbil ball, but I don't think that would be good for the gerbil. There are some mechanical equivalents that might be good cat toys, though.)

Do cats play wheels like hamsters?


Saving JSON to member field?

Question: Has anyone saved JSON in a custom member field? I have a big array I'd like to tie to member registration. I'm using the User module to register. Thoughts?
Comment: Can you elaborate more on your concerns or what isn't working for you? JSON is just plain text and therefor could be saved in a textarea. I have never used User (as I save my members as channel entries) but I don't see why it wouldn't work. The real question is what you plan to do with that JSON and where you wish to display that field.
Answer: That was exactly what I needed to do, just didn't think about it at the end of the day. Building the JS object onClick of the button, then filling a textarea prior to submit. Thanks for the point in the right direction.
Answer: What we did was wrote a, extension and handle the hook that updated the entry and added it there.
This was for BrilliantRetail and we needed to add JSON to a field for each product when being added to the cart.
Answer: I just did this, and although my situation was pretty unique, hopefully it still helps.
In my situation, I needed to add lots of data from a template, and I wanted to use Freemember to easily save it as a custom field. Here were the steps:

Created a simple "dummy" html form with all the necessary inputs, independent of Freemember, with no form action or onClick event (just a form tag, inputs, and a submit button).
Created a separate (hidden) form with one hidden field that's set up via Freemember's {exp:freemember:update_profile ...} tag. This field is set to submit to my custom member field, and has an empty value attribute. This is what actually gets submitted.
When the dummy form is submitted, I used jQuery's amazing .serializeArray() method to collect all the dummy form data into a nice js object, and then a really simple json-jquery plugin to turn that into a proper JSON string.
Once I have my json string from all the form fields, I use it to populate my Freemember form's hidden input tag, and trigger it's submission.

Keep in mind, for most cases this is a sloppy approach. Building a proper extension / module and implementing solid validation is likely the way to go. For someone like me who's way quicker in JS than EE Extension Development, this was a nice workaround. At the very least, hopefully this approach brings other methods to light =).
Best of luck!

Saving JSON to member field?


Which router bit should I use to recess a door hinge using a template

Question: I've just made my 1st template and used it to rout out a set of hinges . I was very surprised to learn that the usual approach was to use a guide bush and a straight 2 fluted bit. This involved attempting to make the template 1.65mm larger all around the template to accomodate the offset between the 16mm guide bush diameter and the 12.7mm width of the cutter. (16-12.7)/2 = 1.65mm.
   But- after researching I was getting the impression that some may be using a special router bit possibly a template profiler with top bearing (on the shank) and mortising ability. I can't find any definitive information on this and am wandering if I'm getting confused with using this bit to actually make the template or to recess the hinge following the template.
    If I can make my next template exactly the same size as the hinge then that would seem to me a lot easier and much less likely attract error.
    So - can anyone confirm whether the second method is possible and exactly which type of bit I should use?
Comment: I can not speak to the homemade option, i found it much easier to buy the kit at lowes that comes with all the templates you may need and the jig to properly align them on the door plus the correct router bit.
Comment: @Alaska man    Ah!, well the hinges I'm installing have curves on them. They are not at all regular.
Comment: @ Michael  The  kit contains templates for both curved  corner hinges and 90° corner hinges.
Answer: This bit is called a "hinge mortising bit"* but it looks to be essentially like other top bearing router bit.
The one difference between this and other top-bearing router bits is that the maximum depth of cut on this one is fairly shallow, which is what you'd want if you're routing into the edge of the door to recess the hinge. This particular one comes in several depths of cut, but to me, they all appear to be to deep for a standard door hinge.
The advantage of a guide bush is that you can use any old straight cutting bit and adjust the depth independently of the guide. With the linked bit (or a similar one) you're stuck with routing to the depth of the cutters, or you have to make a template the thickness of the cutter minus the depth of the mortise you're looking for.
* Amazon.com link - no specific brand/retailer recommendation implied


Is it okay to ask questions on ELL even if you're not learning English as a second language?

Question: As I'm a high school student, I was wondering if it's okay for me to ask questions on ELL about grammar and so forth although English is my first language. If so, which topics can I ask questions about?
Comment: In [this discussion](http://meta.ell.stackexchange.com/q/769) about the difference between [english.se] and ELL, someone said "ELL is about helping people learn English". Just because English is our first language doesn't mean that we know everything there is to know about it! Folks who are learning English as a foreign language probably have a better understanding of English grammar and "the rules" than I ever will, and as a native speaker, I can help with slang, idioms, finding the right word, whether something "sounds natural" etc. It's a win-win :)
Comment: You certainly can ask a question on ELL, but the answers should be written for English Learners, and that primarily means L2 learners.  You should not expect the same kind of answer on ELL that you might get on ELU.
Answer: You should try to ask questions that would be of interest to those who are learning the language as a second language.
We're not here to help you with your homework, but if you can couch your question in a way such that the learning community at large will benefit from the question and its eventual answers, then you can ask it here.
That said, since you are a native speaker, I'd expect your questions would be written with great care and display exemplary grammar.
As for what topics are allowed, do you have any specific questions that aren't answered in the site's Help Center? There are links there that explain what topics are allowed, and what kinds of questions you should avoid asking.
Incidentally, I'm a native speaker, and I've asked a couple questions on ELL. You can have a look at those if you'd like.


Should I microwave-defrost sandwiches?

Question: I freeze sandwiches made from homemade bread rolls at the weekend, paired in plastic bags, and get a set out at 6 am to take to work in a rucksack. They stay there until I eat them at noon, when they're still pretty cold and wet, possibly because they stay in the rucksack's dark inside. I could make them a bit closer to room temperature by defrosting them in my home's microwave before I leave, or by warming them slightly in a microwave at work, but I'm not sure how much I should use either method or on which setting. Alternatively (if it would be enough, but I think it would be socially suboptimal), I could take the bag out at work so the rolls get some light. Is there an optimum approach?
Comment: Unfortunately a frozen sandwich kept in saran wrap or a plastic bag will always be soggy by time of defrost - unless crisped up in an oven (not microwave - which will make it more soggy).
Comment: You make the whole sandwich and freeze it?  What is in the sandwich?
Comment: It's chicken or turkey, with mayonnaise. The rolls come out of the oven crispy when they're made. The sandwiches actually aren't soggy; they're just wet from condensation. I wonder whether I should put them in the fridge the night before so the final 6 hours start from a much warmer point.
Comment: Have you got access to a toaster in work? Toastabags are great for making toasted sandwiches in a normal toaster and will allow you to rescue a previously frozen sandwich
Comment: Why not just freeze the meat separate and put the sandwich together at work?
Answer: No matter what you do in this situation, you are likely to end up with soggy sandwiches.  This has nothing to do with light.  Firstly, the bread of pre-made sandwiches will naturally pick up moisture from the filling and condiments.  Often, even freshly made sandwiches will become a bit soggy by lunchtime.  You've also created a further disadvantage by freezing.  Freezing and thawing disrupts the cell structure of foods.  When this happens, moisture is often lost. Of course, the bread will absorb this moisture.  A microwave will thaw and warm, but will not remove much of this moisture. You would have better luck with an oven, but that would be more time consuming.  Really, your optimal approach is to prepare the ingredients in advance, then take 2-3 minutes before you leave for work, and make a sandwich.
Comment: Some of this depends on what is in your sandwich, as you might have food safety issues to deal with as well.  If you can experiment with the defrost cycle of the microwave, and zero in on an optimal time, it might be best to defrost at work.  Alternately, bring the ingredients and make the sandwich at work.  Sandwiches are best made fresh anyway.
Comment: Suppose I stick with freezing and thawing, and care more about the temperature than moisture. Would it be better to defrost in the morning or at noon?
Comment: I completely agree with moscafj. Bread is a sponge, @J.G. . I understand what you're trying to do, you want to save time in your week and I've been there myself, but freezing sandwiches is never going to give you a good result.
Answer: I think it is worth looking at your sandwich making process to see if there are any things you can do to reduce the likelihood of this dampness.
You mentioned that you freshly bake the rolls, do you allow them plenty of time to finish cooling and releasing steam before you start making them into sandwiches?
How 'damp' are the meats you use for fillings? Some processed meats have quite a high water content. Could you experiment with cheese or with drier meats like salamis or dried ham instead?
Does you mayonnaise have water listed as an ingredient? Many of the lower calorie mayonnaises have that and it can make the bread damp if it is in prolonged contact. A water-free mayo would avoid that, as would butter. Or can you keep a jar of mayo at work and add that just before you eat your sandwich?
You also say that you wrap them in plastic, which will seal in any moisture that might otherwise evaporate. You could consider a couple of options to combat that. You could unwrap them from the plastic in the morning and place them in a paper bag, or have them wrapped in paper kitchen towel inside the plastic as that wuld absorb some of the free moisture.
Comment: I do the paper towel thing.  (even when I don't freeze them ... gives me something to clean up with afterwards)

Should I microwave-defrost sandwiches?


Changing the strings "chem" to "drug" in Fallout and Fallout 2

Question: I've been trying to get the most authentic Fallout experience; and one of the things I remember hearing about is changing the string "drug" to "chem" in Fallout and Fallout 2. I'd like to change the strings back, but I don't know how to modify game data myself (ideally with a few tools as possible).
Answer: You could open up the game's data files in a hex editor and change the text from "chem" to "drug" because they're both four characters, that should do the trick.
Comment: I ran strings on it to no avail; but I have good news I tripped across an embarrassingly good document: http://falloutmods.wikia.com/wiki/DAT_file_format
Comment: I think that what McKay intended, was to open the binary file in a hex editor. These types of editors give insight into mysterious binary files by, among various tricks, revealing strings hidden within them.
Comment: Unfortunately the files are not in any format I'm familiar with. The file utility on Ubuntu can't find a signature for the file. I'm given to understand that there is some magic file format in play.
Comment: A few years too late, but be careful! Doing something like this can change text like "chemical" into "drugical"


Word for "decorated too much"

Question: I'm looking for a word (verb) meaning decorate/embellish too much — in a bad sense — and in particular having the tint of being too much so that something instead of being beautiful becomes fussy and ugly.
Answer: Adjectivally, you could describe something as baroque:

extravagantly ornate, florid, and convoluted in character or style
 from dictionary.com

or florid:

flowery; excessively ornate; showy
 from dictionary.com

Verbwise, I can't think of any single word that encompasses that extent of a description, unless you want to go for something like overembellished with an additional phrase to point out how far beyond the pale it's gone:  "He had overembellished it to the point that it became a grotesque parody of its potential nature", or "he had embellished it well past the point of baroque floridity."
Comment: However, do note that baroque is period and style, and as such the extravagance of some of the better works would be considered positive (at least by some; example: Trevi Fountain in Rome)
Answer: I don't know of any better single verbs than overdecorate, overornament or overembellish.  Bedizen is good if you don't mind obscure.  I might be tempted to coin baroquify.  Related, possibly useful phrases include to tart [something] up and gilding the lily.
Comment: If you're going to coin go with *"Rococoinate"*.
Comment: Note: dictionaries list *bedizen* as *archaic*.
Comment: I like "bedizen." I'm not sure when I would ever use it, but I like it. I can very easily imagine using "baroquify," but I do like making up words. :)
Comment: Thanks a lot! I very much liked the idiom *gilding the lily*; I found the definition here: http://www.thefreedictionary.com/gilding+the+lily (bedizen is not exactly what I was looking for).
Comment: @chaos first read that as *bedazzled*.
Comment: "Gilding the lily" would work only if you had something perfect to begin with.  If you overdecorated a McMansion, "tart up" is better.
Answer: How about gaudy?

gaud·y
  –adjective, gaud·i·er, gaud·i·est.
  1.
  brilliantly or excessively showy: gaudy plumage.
  2.
  cheaply showy in a tasteless way; flashy.
  3.
  ostentatiously ornamented; garish.
Comment: @John Well then gaudify, obviously. ;)
Comment: I think *gaudy* is a fine adjective, but the asker is looking for a verb.
Comment: Whoops, I missed that. Sorry.
Comment: The title is "Word for 'decorated too much'," not only a verb.
Answer: I would use the verb "overdo." What exactly has been overdone is usually pretty obvious. Saying something is really overdone usually means it's tacky or overwrought, which I think is what you're looking for.
Answer: There's actually one word to refer specifically to this.  It's "kitsch":

a representation that is excessively sentimental, overdone, or vulgar
Comment: Also recommended is to look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitsch to *see* if the word fits. Note: 1926, from Ger., lit. "gaudy, trash," from dial. kitschen "to smear."
Comment: Also consider *overwrought*. Kitsch suggests overly cute or junky; the word sought may be just too much of a good thing.
Answer: How about garish?
From WordNet (r) 3.0 (2006) [wn]:

garish
        adj 1: tastelessly showy; "a flash car"; "a flashy ring";
               "garish colors"; "a gaudy costume"; "loud sport shirts";
               "a meretricious yet stylish book"; "tawdry ornaments"
               [syn: {brassy}, {cheap}, {flash}, {flashy}, {garish},
               {gaudy}, {gimcrack}, {loud}, {meretricious}, {tacky},
               {tatty}, {tawdry}, {trashy}]
Answer: "baroquify" is a contrived verb that I first heard in computer science circles 40+ years ago.
I just ran across this post when I used the word in a gmail body and was surprised that the spellchecker didn't flag it, so I did a search.
Comment: ...and, yes, it means what you want it to...
Answer: Make gaudy... over-decorate.
Maybe bedeck
Answer: Rococo is another term that might apply. Although more in reference to painting, it conveys the sense of gingerbread which this question addresses.
Comment: This would be improved with a reference/definition for the term.
Comment: I've just gone through all the answers, downvoting all those that don't bother addressing OP's request for a **verb**. This is yet another.
Comment: Is this some use of "gingerbread" with which I'm not familliar?
Answer: The word that springs to mind is: Overdecorated.
Answer: the word you seek is ungapatchka.  (it's yiddish)
Urban Dictionary:

a Yiddish word that describes the overly ornate, busy, ridiculously
  over-decorated, and garnished to the point of distaste.
the clothing looks ungapatchka.
Comment: The 'patch' part matches the English word 'patch.' Ungepatchka means made into a patchwork, pieced together poorly rather than being of a whole elegant work.
Comment: Welcome to EL&U. StackExchange seeks *definitive* answers, and yours would be greatly strengthened by *explaining* this word. How is it used? Is it in the dictionary? What are some examples of its use? I strongly encourage you to take the site [tour] and review the [help] for additional guidance.
Answer: well i guess you could use the word bedeck.
for example my friend john led me to his room bedecked with green marbles
Comment: Your answer would benefit from linked references to support that meaning of bedeck.
Comment: I'm not sure that "bedeck" carries any sense of _too much_ decoration.
Answer: Shmonzes means valueless stuff--used for objects

small pieces of valueless decorative bric-a-brac; idle talk
(Yiddish origin, jel.jewish-languages).

Schmates is for raggedy clothes.
Comment: This would be greatly improved with some linked authoritative definitions for these words
Comment: Hello, 4078, welcome to EL&U! You should improve this answer with referenced and linked definitions showing definitions or examples of the usage of shmonzes and shmates in an English context. I've suggested one for shmonzes (which you can still edit if you like), but I didn't find one for shmates, I'll leave it for you. [Long, articulate answers](https://english.stackexchange.com/help/how-to-answer) are encouraged here. Cheers! (Oh, and OP asked for a verb...)
Answer: Ragged or shabby means unattractive. When a more complex decoration is applied to something it becomes ugly. It doesn't look professionally made.

Word for “decorated too much”


Transform not working in pose mode

Question: I'm fairly new to this.
I have a rig set up, and there's one bone that will not transform in pose mode. If I try to move it/rotate it using the 3D manipulator widget, it does that free rotate thing with the black arrow instead. However, it does work properly in Edit Mode. Manipulate center points is disabled.
EDIT: Screenshots.
Comment: could you please post either a screenshot, or provide the blend file at http://blend-exchange.giantcowfilms.com/ ? Thanks!
Answer: I parented the bone that wouldn't move with the one below it and changed it to Keep Offset, and now I am able to move it.
Comment: if bones are parented in edit mode using the 'connected' option, child bones cannot be translated away from their parents any more (that's the purpose of connecting them). What you did was exactly what's needed. You can also use Alt+P -> Disconnect Bone to break the connection but keep the hierachy.

Transform not working in pose mode


Why did Confucianims survive longer than Mohism in china?

Question: While studying chinese philosophy, we learned about Mozi. The influence of Mozi's philosophy, or Mohism, according to my teacher and confirmed through personal research, died out during the Han dynasty in 220 AD. Yet Confucianism, concieved of slightly earlier in the same time, not only survived as official doctrine of the Han, but continues to exert enormous influence over China and East Asia all the way till the current day. Why did Confucius's philosophy outlive Mozi's? Is Mozi's universality over partiality really that impracticable, or is East Asia just too family oriented for universality to take hold?
Comment: I actually work in Chinese philosophy, and I've never seen a clear answer as to why Mohism declined and Confucianism flourished *per se*. There's an infinite number of tangential and non-philosophical bits of explanation, however. To give one, "Confucianism" was co-opted by the Chinese state at several points as useful for governing (though at an earlier point it was suppressed).
Comment: @virmaior would it be possible to not close this question, but answer it saying why that is impossible to tell?
Comment: While on the one hand, this is a very interesting question,  there's not much we can do here but purely speculate. The family oriented nature of East Asia seems to be partially a function of Confucianism (though - n.b., Confucianism is a word with many meanings). And *why* certain ideas succeed or fail seems to be something we're not going to be able to resolve.
Comment: Okay @virmaior. I had just thought that scholars had come up with some opinion on the matter.
Answer: The reason of the extinction might be or might not be so complicated as far as I checked.
According to 呂氏春秋 "Spring and Autumn of Master Lü"( English version ), which was published by the Councelor In Chief Of Quin Dynasty Lü Buwei 呂不韋 ( English ), the the members of the group was tied with each other like a some religious group, as it is said, when the later final dynasty 秦、Qin, invaded into 楚 Chu ( Please see the warring map around BC260 ) and encircled one of the castles of Chu, obeying with one of their ten doctrins ( English ), 非攻 = "Inclusive Care" and "Rejecting Aggression." ( from the link ), 400 people committed suicide when the castle was finally fallen by.
Their ten doctrines seemed to have served the followers so much, so that as you can see at the link except for the doctrine Heaven's Intention" and "Elucidating Ghosts., their main focus is quite economic as well as searching for common good. 2 doctrines of theirs are quite famous, as it was even filmed in 墨攻 ( I happened to have found an American reviewing this film shortly as well as explaining about the way of thinking of Mohism. a little bit ( filmed in 2006 )), which are 兼愛 and 非攻, = "Inclusive Care" and "Rejecting Aggression.". Since they rejected as quoted the aggression from oneselves, but they served as mercenaries so that the defenders can save their territories ( which is, according to their doctrines ), they seemed to have very sophisticated war techniques such as engineering works or metallurgy. Therefore, when finally Qin dynasty conquered entire China in BC221, it is probably quite due enough for me to consider they were not needed anymore and their war techniques could have been considered as dangerous. As Wiki ( above ) says below

During the Warring States period, the Hundred Schools of Thought comprised many different philosophies proposed by Chinese scholars. In 221 BC, however, the First Emperor conquered all of the states and governed with a single philosophy, Legalism. At least one school of thought, Mohism, was eradicated, though the reason is not known. Despite the Qin's state ideology and Mohism being similar in certain regards, it is possible that Mohists were sought and killed by the state's armies due to paramilitary activities.

So my assumption would not be off the point so much since Mohism looked to have became the first and foremost target of the eradication.
Now, whereas, Mohism seemed to have been considered as unique or irregular group from that age, such as

"Rejecting Music" and "Rejecting Fatalism." The humane (ren) person opposes the extravagant musical entertainment and other luxuries enjoyed by rulers and high officials, because these waste resources that could otherwise be used for feeding and clothing the common people. Fatalism is not ren, because by teaching that our lot in life is predestined and human effort is useless, it interferes with the pursuit of economic wealth, a large population, and social order (three primary goods that the humane person desires for society). Fatalism fails to meet a series of justificatory criteria and so must be rejected.

**At that time music was a ritually important.

Now, I would like to introduce this doctroral writing, since although it is doctoral, but the author is using 85 sources and 20 books.
And the above author's professor was now a retired Chinese expert of a university.
I would like to present her work online just in summary since translating word by word is just enormous.
According to her, Mohists were quite practical people as well as accoring to her saying a "defense group". She says Maohists considered for common good ( actually for China itself ) but their thought is to quite exent contrary to that of Confucius.
1 Origin of Mohi or Mohists
3 proposals ( A - C ) are most accepted and the last one is rejected by many.
A : Origin : Slave
In Chinese, 墨 denotes tattos, thus indicating they may be slave origin.
B : Some kind of craftsmen
Mohists called their leader as 鉅子. 鉅 denotes in English a ruler, or a  measure, and considering therir sophisticated knowledge of manufacturings, their origin may be craftsmen.
C : Warrior or nobles
They are so well educated too, thus their works quoting that of Confucius and others, so that their origin might have come from some high class.
D : Hindis ( Rejected by many theorogians )
Their thoughts look like that of Buddhism and the name of their deciples are unique compared with other Chinese at that time, so they may have been hindi origin. ( But rejected since such claim is too expeditious. )
2 : Their activity period and remarkable incidents
She presumes their activity reached to the highest around from BC450-BC390, warring time of China. I described their remarkable incidennts,group suicide, includng their leader ( Please see above. )
3 : Their works and its contents.
She says, most of their original works were lost and only 53 works are remaining. Please refer about the summary of their works up above in the ten doctrines. ( English )
For their contents, Please refer to the above link for summary, since I can not translate due to the length ( so broad. )
4 : Mohi himself and Mohists
She proposes that Mohi did not have such a power as a leader but was a pure thinker. From the age of the second leader, 孟勝 ( No English available with sorry ), they became a powerful group, preachng defense techniues as well as division of labor, and economical activities.
Please read the English wiki about Xunzhi 荀子

It was around this time that Xunzi visited the state of Qin and praised its governance, and debated military affairs with Lord Linwu (臨武君) in the court of King Xiaocheng of Zhao.

and

Of his disciples, the most notable are Li Si (prime minister to the first Qin emperor) and the Han state royal Han Feizi, who developed the quasi-authoritarian aspects of his thought into the doctrine called the School of Law, or Legalism. Because of Li Si and Han Feizi's staunch anti-Confucian stances, Xunzi's reputation as a Confucian philosopher has often come into question.
While Xunzi's doctrines were influential in forming the official state doctrine of the Han Dynasty, during the Tang Dynasty his influence waned compared to that of Mencius.2

The later Qin conqured the entire China and the king of Qin literally terminated Mohists. So to me there could have been something between Confucinist Xunzi and Mohists. ( Though it is my assumption )

For further information sake : Confucianism is mainly focusing on the family ethic ( here I mean, Lord-subordinate ethic, + Father-son ethic, etc etc ) and the music at that time played a great role for the ritual in a dynasty, thus in my assumption, the ideas of Confucianism fitted with feudal system more than that of Mohism.
For example, Confucius's Analects Of Confucius
泰伯15
Confucius says

子曰。師摯之始、關雎之亂、洋洋乎盈耳哉。
The Master said: "After Music Master Zhi took over, the finale of the Guanju was magnificent. How it filled my ears!"

Music played an important role in the rituals at that time.
So my finall assumtion is while Mohism was quite ( or too much ) unique and fitting with war time, as well as deviating from the others, on the other hand Confucianism fitted with the feudal era family lord-subordinate system ( but not limited to it ). So Confucianism survived ( although we must suspect the relationship between Xunzhi and mohists ), and the Mohism went extinct.
This includes my opnions to some extent, though I don't think it is not so much off the point, I guess.
Comment: Thanks for the detailed descriptions. They helped me alot (though since I am not East Asian, I couldn't understand the chinese script).
Comment: Thank you. I would like to brush up furthermore so that you can read in English as much as possible. ( I personally recommend you to read the book as much well translated as you can since personally thinking reading Chinese books in English or Chinese or Japanese etc have very different impression ). Thank you anyway.
Comment: Keelan, thank you for your editing. Since I am also interested in Mohism's extinction, I tried to update further relating with Xunzi ( the most critical to Mohism ) but please wait. Anyway, thank you. These people seem to me to be **peculiar** or **outsiders** even to the other thinkers at the same age, as for now. Anyway, thank you for your effort.
Answer: I personally think That the key is People.
people who believed Confucius, got work form the government. Confucius's idea of learning is :If you have studied, apply it to the work.when you can't do your work well,then study more. were his student could better apply the study than Government?so his students joins the government. and he showed a way to the student how to success.
on the other hand,Mozi believe Thrifty,anti war, logic, math, and self farming. so his student learned a lot. but they have no key position inside the government.(you don't see the scientist become the Prime minister,or Governor, they don't have time for that. ) because the idea is so different, when Confucianism have all the power and Mohism had no power, the destiny is set. only how much time they got left.
is not about one idea is right the other is wrong. they both got some idea right and some idea wrong. the real question is ,why they can't learn agree to disagree?
Comment: I can not agree with you, sorry, virmaior. As you can read Japanese, kindly check this work. [link](http://www.cgu.ac.jp/Portals/0/data1/cguwww/03/24_0102/24-02.pdf#search=%27%E7%A7%A6%E6%9C%9D+%E5%84%92%E5%AD%A6%27). You can see on page 16, he proposes the development of the appearance of the mixed ideas including Confuciuanists, Taoists, as a reference to the establishment of **laws** into which the first emperor Shi Huangdi put his effort exclusively ( for his dynasty's sake. ). And actually the disciple of Xunzhi 李斯 served for Qin's dynasty. It seems not so much simple as commonly thought.
Comment: And we should be aware Qin's dynasty only lasted for **40 years**. This time span can be almost ignorable considering the then Chinese practice to overvalue its military size, about what a person did, and how great an emperor was etc etc. **Romance of story of the three kingdoms** [link](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romance_of_the_Three_Kingdoms), which is an **unofficial version** about the history of the three kingdoms boasts 1million soldiers were employed by Cao Cao at the battle of Red Cliff.
Comment: This number is too overemphasized when considering the population of **entire** China around AD 200 is estimated to have been from 10million to 60millon. [link](http://www.linz.jp/worldpop/jp07/appendix1.html)
Comment: Kindly be reminded the 李斯 is Li Si, who I quoted and answered as **Of his disciples, the most notable are Li Si (prime minister to the first Qin emperor)**. So it is hard to guess Qin dynasty "oppressed" so hard on Confucianism.
Comment: First off, welcome to philosophy.SE. This might be true **now**, but historically Confucianism was originally suppressed in the Qin dynasty (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qin_dynasty). So the question might be better understood as asking *why* Confucianism (or at least a species of it) ended up being integrated into the government rather than retrospectively saying what happened after this.


Magento 2.0 front end directory empty!

Question: I just installed Magento 2, now I am trying to change the front end but when I try to look for the files in app/design/frontend/ (as all tutorials say) the directory is empty.
Can anyone help or guide me please?
Answer: All themes loaded via composer are installed in the vendor directory, this changed during one of the Magento 2 beta's. You can find the Magento Blank and the Magento Luma theme in /vendor/magento/theme-frontend-blank and /vendor/magento/theme-frontend-luma.

Magento 2.0 front end directory empty!


Vehicle makes weird sound on left side when braking

Question: I have a jeep liberty 07. I bought it used in a okay condition as it had been in a accident. everything runned great when I first bought it but then one day when I applied the brake the pedal got hard and a noise was heard in the left side. This only happens a couple of times. Sometimes I even go for 2 weeks without having this problem. Just want to know what can be the cause
Comment: Welcome to Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair! It sounds as though your brakes might be worn out. You should probably have them checked by a qualified mechanic who can inspect the car directly.
Comment: This could be a number of things, considering it has been in an accident. You have not told us much about it, miles on the vehicle, where the accident damaged it, how long you have been driving it, etc. I would agree with Paulster2, take to be inspected.
Answer: When ever an accident occurs, or damage outside of the scope of operation, it is crucial that you have someone qualified inspect the vehicle. Normal operation, maintenance, repair experience is not relative in this case as damage can cause too many variables.
If the vehicle has been in an accident it should not be diagnosed as if the part has reached end-of-life.
No one on the internet can give you a proper answer over "Have it looked at by an independent mechanic."
It is not safe, or decent, for us to speculate that repairs were done correctly, nor should we assume that the noises are normal.
Everything could be fine, but at the same time the accident damage and/or the repair could be poor/failing/Improper and highly dangerous.
Please bring the vehicle into a mechanic.
If you don't already know a mechanic, ask around, check reviews, etc... But you need to bring the vehicle in for an inspection by a mechanic that was not involved with the sale.


Can I replace a 40A breaker with a 50A breaker?

Question: I am changing a 40A 2-pole (240V) Federal Pacific Electric Co. circuit breaker but I can't find one.  Can I use a 50A 2-pole? It's for a wall oven.
Comment: What gauge of wire runs from the panel to the oven?
Comment: Never increase the rating of a circuit breaker unless you have checked that ___all___ the wiring it serves, and the connections, can handle the higher load (which usually means replacing it all). Otherwise you're an electrical fire waiting to happen.
Answer: REPLACE THIS PANEL NOW
Your panel almost certainly is suffering from breaker-to-busbar contact damage, rendering it a ticking incendiary device.
See this answer for the gory details on just what is wrong with FPE's "breakers".
If you post a picture of your panel (dead front off), I can determine if you can have your electrician install one of the Eaton retrofit kits (the kit itself is several hundred $, but it saves significantly on labor as the existing enclosure can stay in place) or if you need a total panel replacement (cheaper parts, but more labor).
Comment: If the panel interior is big enough, [Eaton makes a Cutler & Hammer retrofit kit](http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Electrical/ProductsandServices/Residential/LoadcentersandCircuitBreakers/CHRetrofitInteriorKits/index.htm#tabs-1) that an **electrician** can install. Pull the meter, gut the old box of the bus bars and attachments, install the insert and rewire. And wow, now you can have GFCI and Arc Fault breakers as well. And you don't have to rip out the wall, insert a new panel, hope the wires and cables are long enough, etc.
Comment: @FiascoLabs -- indeed; the main limit on deploying those is that some older panels don't have enough wire-bending space to fit a full-size retrofit kit, and tandem GFCI/AFCI breakers aren't a thing due to the electronics package taking up too much space.
Comment: You can replace a 40A breaker with a 50A breaker, if your goal is to start an electrical fire....
Answer: i am not an electrician but I do know federal pacific went out of business years ago after it was found that their boxes were responsible for a number of fires.  Change the entire panel just to be safe.  keeping the federal pacific panel is asking for a trouble.
Comment: This is good advice. When your breakers have a tendency to burn down houses, it becomes difficult to find them for sale anywhere.
Comment: Boy, I second that. And also the sentiment of the answer recommending not to install a 50A breaker on wire rated for 40A. But again, where these products were pulled off the market for starting fires I'd absolutely look into just replacing the panel, rather than replacing the 40A breaker even though you can find them if you look hard enough.
Answer: Do not just install a 2 pole 50 amp Breaker. First your wire would need to be rated for the correct breaker. Second if the oven is rated at FLA (Full Load Amp) not to exceed 40 amps and there was a fault, the 50 amp breaker may not trip and could start a fire or kill someone. If you can wait look at Amazon, one quick search and there it was. Also look at a breaker broker they may have one, but be ready to put out was money, federal pacific are not cheap.
After reading your comment below, if your panel is now not allowing you to change out a breaker you have a bigger problem here. Your panel is starting to degrade and you need to call a electrician and get a quote to change the panel.
Comment: That's usually a good sign your Federal Pacific panel is in need of replacement. Somehow got stuck onto = overheated and plastic welded itself to the adjoining breaker. You're literally playing with fire here.
Comment: Thanks all,  I ordered it on Amazon.  I'm a first time circuit breaker changer & I did find a single 20 that somehow got stuck onto the double 40.  Trying to install the 20 single resulted in my breaking it.  The plastic groove fit well but the steel contact didn't want to go into the slot.  What's the trick?
Answer: Safety over current devices are uually easy to replace and most makes are interchangeable.mcbs are often clip on a rail and electrically connect,oddball makes are on the market,seek advice if in doubt or get an electrician to do this.Be safe be sure.Steve uk engineer.Do not fit a higher rated mcb,like for like only. Beside amp rating,the type is important.See other answers as well.pn,make sure it is an appoved mcb.
Comment: Most makes of circuit breaker are NOT interchangeable in general -- this is dangerous advice.  And the FPE panel OP has is indeed one of the "oddballs", and has been responsible for more than a few fires in its history.
Comment: Note that North American panelboard-style circuit breakers are a *very* different beast from the DIN-rail consumer unit enclosures used in IEC-based systems.  The basic tradeoff is interchangeability/flexibility (DIN rail enclosures can mount just about anything you can think of) for *density* (I have a hard time imagining a consumer unit with 42 or 60 breakers in it that'd fit into a typical stud wall).  And yes, FPE's non-breakers are a known fire hazard (they don't do their one job!).
Comment: @NateStrickland In the UK, which Steve makes clear he is talking about, the MCB's **are** designed to be interchangeable... Makes life easy sorting replacements.
Comment: @SolarMike, that's fair, but I just wanted to be very clear that for the OP's question that this is trying to answer, the advice was incorrect and dangerous.  If it's just a general comment about the compatibility of UK circuit breakers, then probably this question isn't the right place to post it.


The difference between simple ACK and ACK aggregation improvement in TCP

Question: I came across a new term in TCP ACK aggregation which is a bit new to me. I tried finding a good resource online that precisely explains this concept in a clear but unfortunately all of them are very dense and complex. Kindly, can someone explain how and why ACK aggregation exists?
Answer: There is a mechanism that is called TCP delayed acknowledgment. It is used to improve network performance. You can find more info in google. Here is wiki page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TCP_delayed_acknowledgment
Also it might be interesting to read about Nagle's algorithm. It is used to improve network performance where application uses small packet sizes( like telnet). It aggregates packets to MTU size and sends them all in one.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nagle%27s_algorithm
Answer: It's not a term I've come across, perhaps you could provide the reference.
However most acks are aggregated for example during a steady-state data transfer, say a large file going in one direction.  In this case a receiver acks every two segments that it receives, not each one.  So say segments with (next) sequence numbers 5000 and 6000 arrive.  The receiver does not send an ack for 5000 but does send one for 6000.  This ack implicitly also acks 5000.


An issue with large map for Tamriel Rebuilt mod

Question: I'm playing with Tamriel Rebuilt installed and I am using Morrowind Code Patch to get
map expansion so that the whole map is visible, for some of my savegames there seems to be a problem when the two old and the new maps overlap like this:.
It seems that the original map is on top of the MCP map. This is the issue only with some savegame files, for others it works as intended, is there any way to fix this? For Oblivion there were some utilities which could update savegame files, are there similar tools for Morrowind?
Answer: As the Morrowind Code Patch tells you when you change this option, you need to use the "Update Map" function of Wrye Mash (Morrowind's version of Wrye Bash) to have the correct map on a game saved before changing.


Continue downloading files starting from the URL where it stops: WGET

Question: I want to download files using wget. The maximum depth is up to 3. Now, I know that there is a big possibility that the files in the URL will be updated.
Is there a way that these updated/modified files will be the only ones to be downloaded?
For example, day 1: I'll run the Python script that will download all files from a particular site.
Day 2: I'll run the same script, expecting that it will download all UPDATED files ONLY.
What parameter do I need to add to do this?
Answer: You can use the -N (--timestamping) option. For example, wget -N www.google.com.


Kindle app takes up entire screen on windows 10 and I don't know how to get out of it

Question: I just downloaded the Kindle app for my Windows 10 PC. When I open a book, the app takes up the entire screen. I can't see any of my other apps, and I can't figure out how to close Kindle or switch to another app. If I hit ESC, it does nothing. The only way I can get out of the book is to hit the Windows key on my keyboard, but this doesn't seem like a useful solution.
Comment: Hi just googled this query and found this thread. After several attempts on a WIN 10 laptop running Kindle App I can exit full screen by right click anywhere on screen. Simple but elusive!ing
Answer: If you're in full screen on Windows 10 and on a touchscreen device (2-in-1 devices) and detachable keyboard, you just touch the bottom middle of the page and a menu appears. Touch the X and you're out of full screen.
Answer: This drove me nuts, too. Alt-tab will allow you to move away from the the Kindle screen, but it doesn't close it. If Kindle offers a direct keystroke to close the program, they're keeping it a secret. But here's how you can force close it: move your cursor over the "K" (for Kindle) in your Windows Task Bar. Right click and select "Close window". Adios Kindle.
Answer: The Kindle app must think it's on a tablet, or it's a "tablet only" app for Win 10, so it will have no visible title bar or close/minimize/maximize buttons. There are 2 ways.

Using your finger (if a touchscreen) or mouse, "grab" the top of the Kindle app window where the title bar would normally be, and drag the window down. The app will disappear and this will close the app.
or hit  the Escape key. This should also exit the app.

In both cases you will likely return to your (what I call) "tablet desktop", which is different from the normal Windows desktop that has been in use for 20+ years.
The "tablet desktop" has link to many apps, but in the bottom left (on my PC anyway) it has a link to a normal desktop you are used to.
Answer: For my installation of Win10 I can still use alt tab or the like if I'm using a full screen application.
Maybe that would work for you, did you get the application from the website or from the store?
Sometimes they differ.
Answer: On my Win10 machine I just downloaded the kindle version amazon made for windows 7 because of all the issues I had with the version from the store. You could try using that in the future.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/kindle/pc/download
Answer: Swipe from the right.  Click 'Settings', 'Control Panel'.  The ctrl panel should pop up as should a bar along the bottom.  Look for the Kindle app on the bar and close it like you would normally close a program by R clicking/holding it down.
Answer: I was stuck at that too but figured out: It's F11! F11 toggles in and out of full screen. Jeez...
Comment: F11 worked for me. drops out of full screen to the main view.


Why "sag mir" and not "sage mir"?

Question: "sage" is the du-imperative form, and I don't see "sag" on any "sagen" conjugation pages.
Comment: This question seems to be the English duplicate of http://german.stackexchange.com/q/3106/9091, and it is related to http://german.stackexchange.com/q/3901/9091
Comment: https://youtu.be/aLAxbQxyJSQ
Answer: "sag" is (in my opinion) more colloquial usage, and it is actually listed at Wiktionary
or Duden
Comment: Ok, so "sage mir" is still grammatically correct and well understood? The wiktionary link only says Imperative singular, so is it incorrect/confusing to use "sag" in the Indicative Present or Conjunctive Present?
Comment: yes, "sage mir" is well understood as well. "sag" can also be Indicative Present, but it is colloquial, but not incorrect or confusing. But "sag" is not the Conjunctive of sagen, this would be incorrect.
Comment: I would go farther than saying "sag' mir" is colloquial, "sage mir" is very formal would probably not be used in everyday speech except for effect.
Answer: There are several ways to convey a command or request in German.
The imperative proper is derived from the respective 2nd person present indicative form, which may differ from the infinitive stem (see sprechen below). It has no suffix for a singular addressee and a +t for plural addressees. When the +st and +t suffixes require an e in front it should also appear in the imperative, in some cases it even must appear.
An alternative for the singular, which is not covered by every grammar book or German course, because it's still not considered standard German, is the simpler and less strict, more polite form with e in all cases. It's just the infinitive without the n, so basically identical to 1st person singular indicative and 1st or 3rd person singular subjunctive.
Like most final schwas in German, this one may be left unspoken, too, and could then be rendered by an apostrophe in writing. This would result in the same form as standard imperative for regular verbs (sag'!), but not for "strong" ones (sprech'!).
Since the polite 2nd person singular pronoun Sie is equivalent to the 3rd person plural sie, the imperative is the same form.
The 1st person plural can only have an imperative (like let's in English) and it has (like always) the same form as the 3rd.
The only caveat is that the pronoun (after the imperative) is always mandatory for these persons, whereas it's impossible for the others unless a more complete phrase follows! (It was possible when peasants were addressed with the 3rd person, e.g. spreche Sie! / sprich Er!.)

sag! < du sag+st
sag+t! < ihr sag+t
sag+e! < ich sag+e, sag+en
sag+en wir/Sie! < wir/sie sag+en
(er/sie/es sag+t)
sprich! < du sprich+st
sprech+t! < ihr sprech+t
sprech+e! < ich sprech+e, sprech+en
sprech+en wir/Sie! < wir/sie sprech+en
(er/sie/es sprich+t)
rede! / red! < du rede+st
rede+t! < ihr rede+t
red+e < ich red+e, red+en
red+en wir/Sie! < wir/sie red+en
(er/sie/es rede+t)
atme! < du atme+st
atme+t! < ihr atme+t
atm+e < ich atm+e, atm+en
atm+en wir/Sie! < wir/sie atm+en
(er/sie/es atme+t)
kicher! < du kicher+st
kicher+t! < ihr kicher+t
kicher+e! / kich're! < ich kicher+e / kich're, kicher+n
kicher+n wir/Sie! < wir/sie kicher+n
(er/sie/es kicher+t)
näsel! < du näsel+st
näsel+t! < ihr näsel+t
näsel+e / näsl+e! < ich näsel+e / näsl+e, näsel+n
näsel+n wir/Sie! < wir/sie näsel+n
(er/sie/es näsel+t)

For the record, there is no direct imperative for the 3rd persons and the 1st person singular. Phrases with mögen or sollen are possible.
Comment: Ich habe das unverständliche »esier« durch »er/sie/es« ersetzt. Ich habe auch nicht gewusst, was mit »esier« gemeint sein soll.
Comment: Could you please clarify what `esier` means?
Comment: _es/sie/er_ ;-)
Answer: The way I learned the imperative was that you take the conjugation of the verb for the appropriate case, and then drop the respective ending (eg, -st for the du form).
By this formulation, we have sagen -> sagst -> sag.
Answer: This has nothing specifically to do with the imperative. Any inflected form ending in an unstressed -e is liable to lose the final e, whether it's an imperative ("schreibe!"), a 1st person form ("gehe"), a dative ("Lande"), or a plural ("Schuhe"). Not all of these simplifications are equally far along, but all are widespread.
Once a trend like this has advanced sufficiently, grammarians will retrofit it into the inflection table so that the short form is standard and the long form archaic, but the impetus to do so is a general phonological one and not one of grammar.

Why "sag mir" and not "sage mir"?


Far Cry 3: Bow Scope measuring

Question: So I have recently started running around with the bow equipped with the scope.  When I am zoomed in, the markers indicate which point is aiming at what distance.   I try to estimate the virtual distance and line up the corresponding marker in the scope but when I let go, the bolt falls embarrassingly short.   So my question is: Are the measurements in feet or meters?
Answer: From what I recall, the measurements are in meters.
As for the measurements, here is a good thread for tips on shooting with the bow: http://www.gamefaqs.com/boards/632849-far-cry-3/64795166
Here is an excerpt:

Place the 0 marker on their head, if the 100 marker stops at their feet they are 25 meters away.
Place the 50 marker on their head, if the 80 marker stops at their knee they are 50 meters away.
Place the 0 marker on their head, if the 50 marker stops at their knee they are 80 meters away.
Place the 0 marker on their head, if the 50 marker stops at their feet they are 100 meters away.
Comment: Thank you.    Admittedly that does sound a little complicated but I will give it a go.  When i try to reckon a distance to target in game,  I fail miserably.    Am I the only person to have these issues with the bow?    I feel if may be slapstick for me to start a new question solely based on that.
Comment: The estimation of the distance with the bow requires trial-and-error... No one is good at it the first time and it takes practice.
Comment: Thank you AV. After playing major stealthy assassin marksman type characters in oblivion and skyrim I had delusions of grandeur about using the bow in far cry but I have been brought back to earth in a rather unceremonious fashion. I have the bit between my teeth now.

Far Cry 3: Bow Scope measuring


Will I be able to use the Unifix tool to repair a floating floor that was glued on the edges?

Question: Our engineered floating floor was installed by a contractor who glued the edges. We now have some damaged boards in the center of the kitchen that I would like to replace.
 I have seen the Unifix tool online and it looks pretty easy to use, but I don't know if the boards will separate since they have been glued.
 Does anybody have any experience with this?
Comment: Wow, that is a whole lot of money for a piece of metal.
Comment: That is a lot of money for a piece of metal, but I figured it would be worth it if it made the job easier. I guess I have to go the hard route. Thanks for your responses.
Answer: It's not fun or easy, but it can be done.  Good answer was provided here How can I replace a board in floating wood floor?:
From the previous answer:

You'd have to treat it like a hardwood floor t&g repair:
  Run a circular saw down one side, staying away from seam at least the thickness of the tongue, with depth set to board thickness.
  Repeat #1 along the other side.
  Connect the top and bottom cuts across the board, either with a chisel or OMT (Oscillating multi tool).
  Carefully cut into corners to free the 4 border pieces, as necessary. They may just pry out.
  Trim the bottom half of the groove off. (I like to use a table saw and fence). You should be able to wedge it in with the tongue intact, though a small bottom bevel might assist it.
  Sparingly glue along edges of existing tongues and the new board edges and weight it down, as necessary.
Answer: If the tongue and grove were properly glued I doubt banging on them will separate the boards without causing more harm.  The glued joint is going to be pretty strong and it will tear the wood, not just at the board but the entire seam you are banging against.
It will be better to use the more common method of just cutting the damaged board out and replacing with a new board.  If you search online there should be some great tutorials for how to do it.


RHEL 7.1 iscsid fails to get target as networking doesn't seem to have started

Question: I have 2 RHEL 7.1 VMWare vm's (server and client) connected on a private vmware network. They each have 2xe1000 nics using teaming.
I can see the teaming works as expected.
I've also configured iscsi on the server vm, which provides a target, which is in turn mounted on my client vm, by UUID in the fstab on the client machine.
On the client machine
[root@client ~]# iscsiadm -m discovery -t st -p server
192.168.100.11:3260,1 iqn.2012-06.com.example:server20gb

[root@client ~]# iscsiadm -m session -P3
iSCSI Transport Class version 2.0-870
version 22.214.171.1243-28
Target: iqn.2012-06.com.example:server20gb (non-flash)
    Current Portal: 192.168.100.11:3260,1
    Persistent Portal: 192.168.100.11:3260,1
        **********
        Interface:
        **********
        Iface Name: default
        Iface Transport: tcp
        Iface Initiatorname: iqn.1994-05.com.redhat:c1fef4191c2e
        Iface IPaddress: 192.168.100.10
        Iface HWaddress:
        Iface Netdev:
        SID: 1
        iSCSI Connection State: LOGGED IN
        iSCSI Session State: LOGGED_IN
        Internal iscsid Session State: NO CHANGE
        *********
        Timeouts:
        *********
        Recovery Timeout: 120
        Target Reset Timeout: 30
        LUN Reset Timeout: 30
        Abort Timeout: 15
        *****
        CHAP:
        *****
        username:
        password: ********
        username_in:
        password_in: ********
        ************************
        Negotiated iSCSI params:
        ************************
        HeaderDigest: None
        DataDigest: None
        MaxRecvDataSegmentLength: 262144
        MaxXmitDataSegmentLength: 262144
        FirstBurstLength: 65536
        MaxBurstLength: 262144
        ImmediateData: Yes
        InitialR2T: Yes
        MaxOutstandingR2T: 1
        ************************
        Attached SCSI devices:
        ************************
        Host Number: 33 State: running
        scsi33 Channel 00 Id 0 Lun: 0
            Attached scsi disk sdc      State: running

I can mount the disk by UUID with no problems.
[root@client ~]# blkid /dev/sdc1
/dev/sdc1: UUID="de892bb0-7da8-4373-b169-9c465caf2699" TYPE="ext4"

The problem I have is that on reboot, the iscsi target cannot be mounted. When enter maintenance mode and check, it appears there is no networking, hence why the iscsid daemon fails with

[root@client ~]# journalctl -u  iscsid
-- Logs begin at Sun 2015-10-04 18:19:10 BST, end at Sun 2015-10-04 18:32:31 BST. --
Oct 04 18:19:15 client.maclab systemd[1]: Starting Open-iSCSI...
Oct 04 18:19:15 client.maclab systemd[1]: Failed to read PID from file /var/run/iscsid.pid: Invalid argument
Oct 04 18:19:16 client.maclab iscsid[1617]: iSCSI daemon with pid=1618 started!
Oct 04 18:19:16 client.maclab systemd[1]: Started Open-iSCSI.
Oct 04 18:19:17 client.maclab iscsid[1617]: cannot make a connection to 192.168.100.11:3260 (-1,101)
Oct 04 18:19:20 client.maclab iscsid[1617]: Could not set session1 priority. READ/WRITE throughout and latency could be affected.
Oct 04 18:19:20 client.maclab iscsid[1617]: Connection1:0 to [target: iqn.2012-06.com.example:server20gb, portal: 192.168.100.11,3260] through [iface: default] is operational now
Oct 04 18:32:31 client.maclab systemd[1]: Started Open-iSCSI.

Am I doing something stupid here ? Why would iscsid start before networking ? Am I missing a kernel module at boot time ?
Thanks!
Jim
Answer: It appears it was an error on my fstab, I had to pass the option _netdev.
My fstab entry now looks like
UUID=de892bb0-7da8-4373-b169-9c465caf2699 /iscsi  ext4    _netdev,rw  0 0
It seems to boot fine now.
Comment: Jim, mark your answer as the right one.


iPhone 4s not charging 9/10 times

Question: iPhone 4s, my iPhone 99% of the time won't charge arms the battery is power-draining. Started happening at random, going from good - absolute hell while i was at work. One time out of the many times I've recently tried, it charged about 10%  after hours and hours on the charger. tried 3 separate chargers (3 separate brands), tried draining 100% and charging back up etc. could the battery be shot? I can switch the battery out in a simple minute, but I don't want to go out of my way and buy a new battery at my shop if it won't work
Comment: All you can really get in answer to that question is "Yes, it's likely to be the battery." It's the best guess & without testing equipment, no-one could say more.
Answer: Battery certainly could be bad, but there are some other common areas of failure.
If you shine a light into the 30-pin connector, check for any physical obstructions such as pocket lint, scraps of paper, I've even seen staples and gum. If you spot it, try to use compressed air to get it out.
Also look for any burnt (blackened) pins which could explain it.
Lastly look for signs of liquid. Liquid LOVED getting into those docks. Signs of liquid include corroded (green) pins, or tripped (red or pink) liquid contact indicator. The liquid indicator is in the center, under the connector plate.
Barring any of those things, it's most likely either the battery or the charging circuitry.
Comment: It looks like there might possibly be 3 black pins, but I have to do some research on that. What does a black pin mean?
Comment: Also, I looked where you said liquid indicator is. Looks like a hole chipped out of the white square that the connector plate is attached to? If so, the hole is pretty gunked up, almost looks like I can see a metal mesh somewhere in there
Comment: To update, just checked the 4s after having left it plugged in while I was at work. 10 hours +\- 2 has gotten it up to 44%. Turned on wifi while on airplane mode to start backing stuff up to Google Drive, and 2 minutes max has brought it down already 4%
Comment: A black pin is a burnt pin which could very well explain it. If you count which pins are burnt, you can compare it to the pinout and see if that's correct. For the LCI, if you blow it with compressed air (sometimes you have to use a brush to get gunk out of there) you should see either a white or red/pink square in there. Shouldn't be a metal mesh.
Answer: You didn't mention which iOS version you are running. With iOS 9 you can have a look at which application is using the battery the most (in Settings/Battery).
In general I would recommend a full reinstallation of the whole phone in such situations. But as the 4s is rather old so is probably the battery, which would explain the behavior you are seeing. Going for a new one sounds like a good idea (especially if you can replace it yourself).
Comment: Running iOS 9. And I replaced the battery around 9 or so months ago, could it still just instantly change like that?
Comment: Hard to say. Based on the information you've shared so far a faulty/aged battery seems to be the best guess to explain the symptoms you are describing.

iPhone 4s not charging 9/10 times


Why do a majority of still cameras only have one tripod hole?

Question: All the still cameras I own only have one hole for a tripod. What is the reason for that? Unless you mount the camera very tight it wiggles around and even then it doesn't seem as secure as the video cameras where I use two screws in conjunction with a tripod adapter to mount it or my camcorder which has a smaller hole for a plastic pin.
Comment: A L-bracket mounted in an Arca-Swiss mount will not slip and twist, no matter how heavy the camera and lens.
Comment: Ok, I can not resist.  "*Why Do A Majority Of Still Cameras Only Have One Tripod Hole?*"  Because they can not be mounted on more then one tripod at a time.
Comment: I'm not sure a *majority* of camera don't. Pretty much *all* actual video cameras have an extra hole for an anti-rotation pin. Most *still* image cameras, even those which may also be able to shoot video, do not. But some do.
Comment: Related: [What are the threaded holes in Manfrotto camera brackets?](https://photo.stackexchange.com/q/105856/15871)
Comment: @MichaelC yes you are right my handled camcorder has a small hole for this. I had forgotten about this because I don't have any tripods that let me take advantage of this. I've modified my question to reflect this.
Comment: @AlaskaMan well... If there was a tripod mount where the flash shoe is then you could have a tripod upwards too and thus pinning it in the room.
Answer: Previous answers have already suggested acquiring an Arca Swiss style dovetail adapter plate, typically made from aluminum, that is formed with a ridge or lip that mates with the body of the camera for a distance of typically around 2 inches (50-60mm).
This width of engagement of the ridge or lip against the body of the camera, combined with the screw point mounting hole that the adapter plate is affixed to the camera with, serves to eliminate rotation between the camera and the adapter.
Naturally, the adapter must be formed to fit the camera body, so these adapters are specific to the model of camera that you have.
To solve rotation or wiggling between the adapter and the tripod, an Arca Swiss B style dovetail head must be used on the tripod.  Here again, the physics that stops wiggling and rotation is that 2 or so inch length of engagement that the machined dovetail plate (mounted on the camera) and receiver (mounted on the tripod) affords.
As you pointed out, a single point is a pivot point.  But multiple points in a rigid line, and in the case of this dovetail plate engagement, two rigid lines, cannot rotate.  This is why the Arca swiss B style dovetail plate arrangement is so popular among serious photographers.
Arca Swiss is a brand, but like the Xerox brand is to photocopying, or the Google brand is to searching... there are many brands and manufacturers to choose from when it comes to selecting a dovetail plate formed for your particular camera.  I personally use the Really Right Stuff brand, but I'm not mentioning this to promote that brand... I merely mention this as a way for you to find a catalog online to visualize the variety of plates and tripod heads that just one US manufacturer makes.  There are plenty of other, often cheaper, typically imported brands to choose from as well.
Previous respondents also mentioned L plates in passing, and this deserves more detailed discussion as L plates offer a significant step up advantage over just an adapter plate.  A formed L plate, combined with a quick release head on the tripod, can make changing from portrait to landscape mode a snap, while maintaining close to the same framing.
If a traditional screw mount multi axis tripod head is used, and you want to switch from portrait to landscape, a lot more additional adjustments might be necessary to compensate for the change in framing when the camera is "swung down and to the side".
An L plate, combined with a quick release head, can with some cameras be designed and positioned such that the center axis of the lens remains unchanged when the camera is quick released from its' horizontal position and remounted in its' vertical position.
Again, this can be camera and L plate dependent, but it is one of the design goals of quality L plate manufacturers, that is sometimes undermined by data access ports for tethered shooting... which explains why it all depends on the specific model of camera.
Be that as it may, having an L plate adapter is still vastly more utilitarian than just a bottom plate adapter, because the L plate also affords additional attachment points for accessories.
For example, if you want to mount an on camera light, that is off axis from the lens, the hot shoe for the flash generally isn't strong enough to cantilever a light source off axis while remaining hand held... but an L plate, combined with various brackets attached to the L plate, can hold a light 3 feet up in the air above the camera, or 18 inches off to the side of the camera, if you wanted.  The hot shoe would rip out, but the dove tail plates formed as part and parcel to the L plate can tolerate significantly more clamp load and leverage.
So while the foregoing response mainly served to clarify and augment the ideas that you've already been given (adapter plate and L plate), I'd like to introduce to you another way to support your camera, especially when using long lenses.
Long focal length lenses often have their own lens foot, and there are dovetail adapter plates that mount to these lens feet as well.  As with camera mounting plates, lens mounting plates have an anti rotational feature incorporated as well.  For the really long lenses, whose feet have more than one hole, the adapter plate takes advantage of the secondary hole in the lens foot.
But for shorter or more compactly designed (diffractive) long lenses with only one mounting hole in the lens foot, the adapter plate will have a ridge or lip that will engage along the fore or aft width of the lens foot.   Some lens feet have curved edges, and in those cases, the adapter plate might have a couple of machined holes with allen head cap screws placed in them, and the round sides of these two cap screws are what engage with the radius edges of the lens foot.
Because there are two screws, there is no pivoting, because two points make a line, and we actually have three points of engagement when we remember that there is still the mounting screw that holds the adapter plate to the lens foot.
So why would you use a lens foot to mount the camera on a tripod rather than screw hole under the camera?  For two reasons:

Better weight balance.   Good glass is heavy, and the weight of a long lens can easily outweigh a still camera.  The lens foot is positioned such that center of gravity can be optimized with the camera clicked into the lens, which provides the optimum balance for not only tripod mounting (reducing inadvertent lens droops and tilts), but also for hand holding.

Instantaneous portrait to landscape orientation changes while maintaining the same lens axis.  Since the lens is rotating within the lens collar that incorporates the foot, the camera body is just along for the 90 degree rotational ride, and nothing changes in the central area of the frame.  Because the entire rig is supported by the lens foot rather than the camera body.

Lens feet, and their adapter plates, tend to be longer, which provides more opportunity to fine tune weight balance in a dove tail grip system, because you can slide the plate within the receiver fore and aft until the balance is optimal.
All of the foregoing applies to both still photography, and videography using DSLR form factor camera bodies.
When I worked as a photographer (now retired), I mounted the longest dovetail lens feet I could find on my lenses, and mounted more stuff to the unused length, like radio transmitters for remote cameras, light triggers, pistol grips, reflectors, etc.
I think you asked a GREAT question, which is why I took this time to respond.  Why don't manufacturers include anti rotation holes in traditional body style SLR camera bodies.  There is no reason why they couldn't, so any answer to that specific question of "why" would amount to speculation and opinion.
So I endeavored to answer with ways you could solve the problem of "wiggling", as you described it.  And believe me, when mounting remote cameras suspended up in the rafters of an arena with thousands of people below, we don't want any "wiggling".  I found that the dove tail mounts were secure and confidence inspiring in my set ups, and I think you will too.
Answer: I think it is to do with the shape, size, and prupsoe of the cameras. Camcorders are long and move around a log when used, so a stablizing pin is helpful. Cameras odn't move around a lot when used, so the extra pin isn't needed. They are also thin, so there is less room to put the extra pin.
Answer: Basically because it is sufficient for the majority of users. Most people nowadays mount the camera on a quick-release plate rather than the tripod and those can have their own wait of ensuring alignment. A number of plates are made specifically for certain camera models and use a raised edge instead to keep the camera lined up.


Honda Civic hybrid won't start

Question: My Honda Civic hybrid won't start.  No interior lights, no power.  Can I jump start the battery under the hood?  Not sure since it is a hybrid and has two? batteries.  I did not drive it for 3days.  It seems to be jerky/sluggish on acceleration for the past few weeks
Answer: Yes, you can jump the 12v battery from another 12v source. Ensure you are using the jumper cables correctly (+ to + and - to -) and you shouldn't have any issues. Your suggestion of the vehicle being jerky/sluggish would have nothing to do with the 12v battery system. This would have to do with the gas engine itself, or with the high voltage battery system/electric motor.
Comment: Thank you! Instead of jumping, I charged it with a plug in battery charger. The battery holds charge overnight but within 48h, it lost 90% of the charge. Any idea what is draining it? Have not yet tried to start it; interior lights, etc work when charged.
Comment: @user12782 What year is your car? How old is the battery. Either the battery is too and and needs to be replaced or you have some electrical issues causing it to draw too much power when the engine is not running. I hope former is your problem as it's an easy fix.
Answer: Sounds like the original problem I had with my 2007 Civic Hybrid, there was a parasitic drain through the immobilizer which is part of the interior fuse box by the drivers feet. Changed out the fuse box and fixed that problem.

Honda Civic hybrid won't start