Why does my chain keep jumping off the front chainring on my 1x9?

Question: My chain has a tendency to frequently jump off the front chainring. I have a 1x9 so it's not a front derailleur issue. It generally happens when I hit something like the lip of a driveway or sidewalk at a crosswalk, which sucks when it pops off in the middle of crossing a busy highway in town. Could my chain be a bit too loose?
Answer: Is your front chainring on the outside or inside of the spider? Is it a converted 1x9 or did you purchase it as a 1x9?
It's most likely happening when you hit large bumps or holes in the road. It's possible that your chain is too long if you converted it from a 2x9 and didn't reduce the number of links in the chain.
If you converted it, it's also possible that the chainring is just too far away from your center line for a proper chainline when you're on your largest cog. If possible, move your chainring to the inner side of the spider. If you have a single ring crank, you may need to get a shorter BB/spindle.
Another cheaper and easier solution is to get a chain watcher. There are several types and brands such as N-stop, K-edge, Paul Components. This will sit on the inside and/or over the top of your chain on the front chainring which will help prevent the chain from jumping off the front ring. They are used widely in the cyclocross world to prevent this.
Comment: I've also had issues running a 1x9 setup on some full suspension frames. Whenever the frame linkages compress, the momentary slack in the chain would invariably let the chain fall off. There are chain tensioners and chain keepers specifically designed for heavy off road use.
Comment: Another option would be to mount an inner and outer bash guard---essentially they are smooth chain rings which protect the profile of your chain ring (the Salsa Crossing Guard is specifically for chain retention). These can be used in conjunction with a chain keeper (like the Paul Comp).
Comment: Tha Riddla: It was originally built as a 1x9, it wasn't converted. I'm not sure if it's on the inside or outside of the spider, I'd assume inside. It does have a bashguard on it in place of the outer ring.
Comment: WTHarper: It definitely feels like slack when hitting the bumps could throw it off. Even if I stop pedaling abruptly the chan will slap the frame. I'll look into a chain watcher.
Comment: While I still feel a chain watcher is the way to go, I can't help but think something is still a bit off in my setup. I've thrown the chain off 3 times in the last two days, and from tiny little bumps, like the lip of a driveway. Should I try to remove a link in the chain? What are the drawbacks if it ends up being too short? I assume I'll have issues shifting.


Which should I upgrade for programming in Laptop, RAM or SSD?

Question: I have a Lenovo 320 laptop which has core i3 processor, 7th generation and 4GB RAM. Now for Programming what should I upgrade? Should I upgrade 4GB to 8GB or add 250GB SSD with 1TB HDD? I am really confused. Thanks in advance. I want to use the laptop for official tasks. and may have to use dual boot. in this case, what should I do?
Comment: @M.ahmed It looks like you have two accounts now. If you'd like to merge them, please use the [contact link](https://hardwarerecs.stackexchange.com/contact) and use the "merge" option.
Answer: It depends on what you mean by programming. Are you going to use this laptop for an intro to programming class?
If so, its fine as is and you shouldn't need to upgrade anything.
If you want your computer to run better for development purposes, my recommendation is that when you run whatever code you have written keep an eye on your resource usage in the Windows task manager. If you see that you're RAM usage is high then get more RAM. If you see that you are reading a lot from disk, then get an SSD if you feel like your program is taking too long to run.


Burning an open channel in DEM

Question: I need to burn a DEM surface to generate an open channel. (all dimensions and slopes are known)
I thought I should use raster calculator to subtract a raster represent channel depths from the DEM raster. but there is only one matter, the land surface is varied and hence I don't know where the channel side slopes will intersect with the DEM.
Is there a function to find the intersection line between two rasters (channel side slope and DEM)
Comment: You need to know heights at the channel ends as well
Comment: Yes, I have elevation at both ends of the channels
Answer: If you've already rasterized your channel depths, try simply running a minimum function (or a Conditional statement) to merge them together properly:
<code>Con(ChannelRas < DEM, ChannelRas, DEM)
</code>
Comment: If you are going to rasterize an open channel (if you have all nodes coordinates), will you use all the data in rasterizing, or will you rasterize each side (bottom, right side, left side) separately?.
I have tried both earlier and I found the second choice gives better results.
Comment: I would think that the ideal option for rasterization might depend on the density of input data relative to output raster resolution. It will ultimately depend on data resolution/precision expectations and your ability to model the true channel morphology of your participation study area.
Comment: Also, if you're satisfied with my answer to your original question, it might be best to mark it as "answered" to help the greater community moving forward.

Burning an open channel in DEM


Run report of donors with email addresses

Question: How do I run a report that lists anyone who is a donor and has an email address in my organization's database on civi?
Answer: You can search in advanced search for 'has an email' by putting a percent(%) sign in the email search field & hitting enter - and include a 'From 0' in the Contribution section of the search.
The resulting search should give results for

Email LIKE '%' ...AND... Contribution Amount - greater than "0"


Do Most Pop Songs Have An Instrument Play Chords While The Singer Sings The Melody

Question: I'm very curious if most instruments play a melody at the same time, and work in counterpoint, or it's just a singer playing a melody while some instruments play chords.
Comment: Typically, there will be some instrument defining the roots of the chords (bass), some instrument(s) playing chords (often guitar, piano, or synth, but this could be something else too), and, if necessary, instruments playing counterpoint (strings, horns, guitar, etc.).
Comment: As linuxios said.  I'll just add that often instruments play the melody too, either with the singer or alternating.
Answer: It's often hard to draw a line between melody and chords.
I know, that sounds ridiculous. But sit back and think about the role a keyboard plays. Sure, they can just play a single note melody, or they can just hold some chord tones. But often they do both, at the same time. They voice the chords they play, so that a melody is formed. Sure, it's not the main vocal melody, but it's a melody nonetheless.
This happens with other instruments too, but I'm a keyboard player, so that's what I'm most familiar with.
Even a bass line can be a melody. In fact, thinking melodically is often a mark of a good player. Sure, taste is important here; it's easy to be distracting, but bass should be more than playing quavers on the root of the chord.
So, to answer your question, the instruments of the play both chordally and melodically, and will often change role during the song. Even the vocals might be chordal (if there's more than one singer). You can deconstruct specific examples, but it's difficult to generalise across a genre, especially one as broad as pop.
Answer: Yes, a lot of pop music is guitar-based. You feel it could have been written by a singer simultaneously strumming a guitar.  A bass guitar might add an element of counterpoint, as might a lead guitar.   But basically the song could be performed by just a singer plus guitar playing chords.
But a lot of pop songs do other things.  The musical background may be a repeated 'beat' with no particular chord sequence.   Or it may be composed and scored in a 'classical' style.  'Pop' covers a huge range of styles!
But what a strange question to ask.  LISTEN to some pop songs.   What musical methods DO they use?  Don't ask us, use your ears!
Answer: There is not a 100% answer to this one. I have seen a lot of pop music with examples of both. I think that pop music is heavily defined by vocal melody and rhythm, though. It's less about the pitched instrumentation these days. Seems like the formula people are gravitating too depends on if the girl can sing, and the song has a hip beat.
Answer: It's difficult to answer whether "most" pop songs do anything. I can say this though, one interesting characteristic of pop music designed for the radio is that the beat of the song is recognizable almost instantly. Meaning that for most pop songs you can tell what song is playing simply by listening to the instrumental without the vocals (there are many reasons why producers put so much emphasis on this).
Now there are many ways how producers make their instrumental have a unique character that'll allow for instant recognition: one way is by containing interesting or unique sounding instruments. Another way is by having the instruments play a certain melody or motif that revolves either based around the chords creating a "half chord progression, half melody" or based around the vocal melody usually repeating the hook of the chorus (e.g in the songs Symphonies by Zara Larsson or One Last Time by Ariana Grande) this usually played by a guitar or piano line but nowadays it can be almost anything that plays the "motif").
To conclude: there isn't one rule that all producers follow,  but it is common for producers to include a melodic phrase/motif/loop in their instrumentation as a way to make the beat stand out.
(there are other reasons as well but I think that would be a bit too deep... Let's keep it light shall we)


Is randomizing cookie names a good idea?

Question: What security benefits would randomizing cookie names on a website offer? What are some of the challenges it would create?
Answer: I don't think you gain a lot since they'd still be associated with the site, or some sub-domain of it.
As for the downsides, you'd have to have some lookup to figure out what the name for a particular cookie is so you can know where the data you stored previously can be found.
I think you're better off not worrying about it, and instead make sure you only store some unique identifier so you can tell who it is, provide adequate security to keep others out of their account, and store all other user-related data internally in your own back-end database.
Comment: The session name may reveal the type of server. For example, `connect.sid` reveals the Express framework on a Node.js server. That knowledge could help malicious users to focus their effort.
Answer: The only upside to randomizing cookie names, is if you have reason to believe a given cookie might be overridden by different cookies with the same name.
For example, multiple instances of the same app on a single webserver. Or, shared hosting - you never know what someone else will put in...
But then, there are better solutions - such as scoping the cookie to the specific path... Everything else is just security by obscurity.
And the downside, is as @Greg pointed out.
Answer: I could envision how randomizing cookie names could prevent Related Domain Cookie attacks
What cookie attacks are possible between computers in related DNS domains (*.example.com)?
One possible solution is where the cookie name is a hashed value corresponding to the user name, etc and acts as a MAC against this type of attack.  In other words, cookie names with an invalid name/hash would be discarded
Example
<code>normalcookieName_SomeHashedValueBasedOnSessionID
</code>


Is venting a vertical waste line required?

Question: I am putting a bathroom in a section of the house that has a crawlspace under it.  The main drain is in the basement area of the house.  The soil pipes will run horizontally in the crawlspace, then a double 45 to drop down the basement wall, and then horizontal again to run under the floor to the main drain.  At the point where the waste line transitions from horizontal to vertical is a vent required?  I think I remember reading somewhere that all vertical stacks have to be vented.
Comment: Vitally is right, vertical waste pipes do not need to be vented. You are right too, vertical stacks need to be vented. What you describe is not a vertical stack, vertical stacks are vertical waste pipes into which trap arms from fixtures on multiple levels drain.
Answer: No, vents are not required for any random vertical drop. Only plumbing fixtures require vents.
The main point of the vents in the drain system is to let the air enter the pipes at the spots where water enters it too. Without vents two things would happen: First - poor drainage, as both water and air are competing for space in, say, your sink drain. Second - low pressure in the pipes, created by water draining through one fixture, might suck in water from other fixture's trap. Which would let nasty sewer gases into living quarters.
As there's no new water entering at your vertical drop, a vent there won't do anything at all.


Raw vs Jpeg for non-professional use

Question: I am not a professional photographer, I am just taking pictures as a hobby. I take portraits, landscapes, and some wedding pictures. I am using a Nikon D750 camera, should I be shooting in jpeg fine or raw?
Comment: If the question is taken as "What advantages of RAW format might be useful to non-professionals" it can be more complementary than duplicate, perhaps.
Comment: I'm voting to close this, as the answer are basically just rehashing the same answers to other questions.
Comment: Just saw this on reddit. http://i.imgur.com/52dQySw.jpg
Answer: It Depends
Ultimately, which format is a better fit for you is up to you, and what/how you shoot and process your images.
Some folks will categorize the difference as amateur (JPEG) and pro (RAW), or not-serious (JPEG) and serious (RAW), but it's simply a matter of which format gets you what you want out of an image.
Why not both?
Side note: space is cheap these days; cards and hard drives are among the less-expensive hardware bits a photographer can buy.  I'd actually recommend that you try shooting in RAW+JPEG, so you have the benefits of both formats available to you, or at least so you can try both and learn which one is more to your taste with identical images to side-by-side. It won't affect much, unless you're shooting superfast action and can't burst fast enough in JPEG+RAW. Most cameras offer you the option of saving the RAW file as it makes the JPEG.
Shooting JPEG
JPEGs are smaller compressed files and an internet standard, so they require no processing to achieve a deliverable file.  And most in-camera processing features only affect a JPEG file.  So, if you need to deliver a lot of photos quickly (say, as a professional who needs to deliver a lot of images quickly, or a single shot before the competition can). Or, say if you're an instant-gratification social media creature, you may prefer the immediacy of a JPEG file straight from the camera.
But because JPEG is a lossy format, some of the color data is discarded in the compression scheme. At the "Fine" setting, you're retaining the most your camera allows. But nailing the exposure and any in-camera processing choices become more important. You can still post-process the image. You just won't have the same latitude on edits that RAW would give you, particularly for some color shifts (e.g., white balance), because the lost data JPEG dumped in the compression can leave behind artifacts with certain kinds of adjustments. You have to have mastered your camera and its settings so that you know you're getting what you want in the camera, or at least close enough that you can post-process without creating artifacts.
That doesn't mean you can only do mild processing. Some in-camera processing can get pretty wild (think: tilt-shift, low/high-key effects, and everything else a scene mode can accomplish in-camera). JPEG engines are where the camera manufacturers spent time and money developing proprietary algorithms, and sometimes the look they can achieve may be difficult to duplicate on your own (go google "Fuji Classic Chrome" ;-), and could be a look you really want. Back in the early days of dSLRs, in-camera processing was bad enough that even as a beginning amateur you could process the images better yourself. Today, this may no longer be the case. So if you cherish how the images look on the LCD, a JPEG might be the only way to get it, and will certainly be the easiest way to get it.
And, obviously, if you prefer not to post-process at all, then JPEG is your friend.
Shooting RAW
RAW files are (mostly) raw data dumps from the sensor.  Obviously, the data goes through the camera processor, and there may actually be some resizing (sRAW), compression or processing going on, but for the most part, the file is uncooked. However, RAW is not a specific file format or file standard. It's not even an acronym.  RAW file formats change with each individual camera model. The .NEF files coming out of your D750 are not in an identical format to the .NEF files coming out of a D3500 or a D700.  So, you need software that can grok your D750's RAW files to do RAW conversion. JPEG editors typically don't need to be kept up-to-date, and you may have to wait for an update in your converter to use a RAW file directly, if you're buying a just-released camera model. (See DNG converter doesn't convert, Photoshop CS2 doesn't open DNG for information on the "Photoshop Tax").
RAW files contain all the data the sensor gathered in a gloriously lossless format. So, while the files are larger than JPEGs, they also allow you to do far more dramatic changes to the color data without showing artifacts as quickly as a JPEG file will. So if you like to go hog wild with sliders in post or do more extreme forms of processing, such as HDR, cross-processing, or compositing, or there's a specific effect you want that your camera's processing doesn't do, RAW is typically going to be a more flexible format to play with, if you have the time and willingness to do so. So, RAW is often seen as the "serious" or "professional" format to shoot in.
But RAW can also be better for "fixing" shooting mistakes--particularly white balancing and exposure issues.  So, some might actually characterize RAW as the better, more forgiving, format for beginners who may not be able to nail exposure and white balance in-camera the way they want.  RAW can act as your "safety net", as well as giving you more toys to play with when it comes to post-processing.
Comment: +1 for including "safety net". If your interest extends to post-processing at all, you'll appreciate the extra fudge factor for white balance and exposure, more so the less adept you are at getting it right in the camera. This is expecially true if you like to try to capture scenes with a wide dynamic range (sunsets, etc.).
Comment: @Martin By the time you reach into the tens of gigabytes, but less than terabytes, it doesn't really make a lot of difference how much data you're looking at as far as backups are concerned. For most, at that point, external HDDs are the way to go these days. Optical media doesn't have the per-disk capacity and rewrite capabilities, and tape with that sort of capacity is expensive, as well as being a specialty medium. A pair of USB3 or eSATA external HDDs will almost certainly be the most practical backup approach for most situations.
Comment: *"...all the data the sensor gathered in glorious uncompressed format."* Make that "possibly compressed losslessly" rather than "uncompressed". Simple test: if the raw data was uncompressed, then all raw files from the same camera would be approximately the same size (since the JPEG preview image accounts for a small fraction of the overall file size). Since raw file sizes can vary wildly even from a single camera, we can conclude that they are unlikely to be *uncompressed*. Since the whole point of RAW is to preserve all data, we can conclude that the storage is likely *lossless*.
Comment: Might I disagree with the space argument. I'm an extremely casual photographer, and my jpeg-only collection currently weights in at 50GB. (including a very few raws). If all that were raw too, it'd be like x4 ... 200 GB, and while that's no problem on a single disc, it *does* get annoying to properly backup it. (And I like to make sure that my family photos *are* properly backed up. :-) )
Comment: "RAW files contain all the color information the sensor gathered...". Not exactly. RAW files contain monochromatic luminance values for pixels that have each been filtered for one of three colors. Having those monochromatic luminance values and an application that knows the exact shade of each of those colors means "...all of that color information..." can be interpolated from those monochromatic luminance values. But there is no color information at all in the pixel values of a RAW file.
Comment: @MichaelClark, ok. changed "color information" to "data".
Comment: @MichaelKjörling: changed to "gloriously lossless"; you guys get so _verbose_ in your precision...
Comment: "So verbose in your precision" Unlike yourself, posting by far the longest answer so far? :)
Comment: @MichaelKjörling Length is not in and of itself proof of verbosity. But if you like, I'm verbose. You guys are _prolix_. :D Seriously, though, thanks. That wording was bugging me, too. Just hadn't figured out how to fix it.
Answer: If the pictures that come out of your camera look good to you and you don't want to put in the effort possible with RAW images to process them yourself and make them better than your camera can give you -- by all means, use JPEG.
If you're happy with the results that's what matters. Don't worry about any of the geeky stuff, if you're getting the images you want, that's the important thing.
That said, if down the road you decide to get more serious about photography and you start wanting to get more involved in controlling the look of your images, then you need to switch to RAW and learn the post-processing piece then you need to be aware taht the images you take in JPEG will have limited ability to be worked on. When I made the switch from JPEG to RAW around 2005, I ended up with about four years of images I really can't use because they were in JPEG and the work needed to bring them up to snuff wasn't possible.
Also realize those JEPGS are fine for printing and sharing online, but probably not for any "serious" use where you might want to sell them. Since that's not part of your interest, don't worry about it but I wanted to point it out.
As long as you're aware of that possible tradeoffs down the road, do what lets you enjoy taking pictures. It's perfectly okay to change your mind later if you get more serious about your photography, none of this is permanent.
If you like what you are getting, keep doing it. Only change it if you feel you ought to do better and want to. Don't let the advice of what some like to try to tell photographers is the "way things ought to be" get in the way. Do what makes you enjoy doing it. Don't try to do more than that until you feel you need to because you want to get better at your hobby.
Comment: "If you're happy with the results that's what matters." -- Will you still be happy looking at the JPEGs five years down the road? I know I've been looking and older pictures I shot JPEG-only and thought, darn, the lighting or white balance is a bit off (probably didn't notice then), if I only had the RAW!
Comment: It would be great if you could add a specific example of what you could not do with the jpegs. Thanks!
Comment: @Raphael I don't think there is anything wrong with that, but on the other side 1) Sometimes, it's nice to just relax and consider old work *done* and move on; 2) Technology has improved significantly and in many cases factors that RAW won't really help with (e.g. resolution, noise) will overwhelm things you can tweak, and, 3) that's not even considering that you can't go back and change the lighting or reframe. So, while this might be a factor for some people, it isn't necessarily for everyone.
Comment: @raphael I don't think you'll know that until later and I'm not sure how much you should worry about that NOW if your goal is to be a casual photography enjoying taking pictures. If your goal is pro, things are differernt, but that's not his goal.
Comment: @Martin -- the big thing for me with my old jpegs was the inability to make the changes I want in controlling shadows and highlights. Thigns blow out too easily with JPEG and you end up with lots of noise. Also a limited ability to rework and re-sharpen.
Answer: "Professional" has nothing to do with it. It comes down to whether you are willing to accept what the camera produces, or if you instead wish to have some degree of freedom to adjust the camera's product before delivering the final results.
JPEG is carefully designed to be "good enough" for almost all presentation purposes.¹ But that's the thing: it is designed only for the case of delivering a finished photograph to the one who wishes to view it. When you ask a raw-capable camera to deliver JPEGs instead, you are telling it that you will accept whatever it produces.
Obviously JPEGs aren't entirely un-editable, but there are costs to almost every kind of edit you can name:

Lighting adjustments: This is the biggie. JPEG has only 8 bits of brightness information. (That is, 2⁸, or 256 levels of gray.) There is nothing below visible black in the image, and nothing above visible white in the image. Thus, if it is overexposed or underexposed, any brightness adjustments will begin to produce banding and other bad artifacts.
Most any raw-capable camera will have at least 2¹⁰ levels of gray per color channel, and often more. This gets you thousands or tens of thousands of levels of gray to play with. When you're pushing the lighting levels around, the more levels you have to play with, the less risk you have of producing something unusable.

Color temperature adjustments: The auto-white balance feature of modern cameras is amazing in its ability to guess the correct white balance, but it isn't perfect. Since after-capture white balance adjustments require the same sorts of available dynamic range as lighting adjustments, if there is too much error in the camera's white balance setting, you will not have the dynamic range available to fix it.

Cropping, rotation, etc.: It's better to do such adjustments to a raw image than a JPEG because it avoids a recompression step. Each recompression step loses more information, except in very uncommon cases.

It therefore comes down to a question of time: will you take the time to import all your raw images into a photo management application and make any necessary adjustments to them before compressing them to their final JPEG form, or do you wish to deal with only a card full of finalized JPEGs?

Footnote:

I do not mean my "good enough" comment to be dismissive of the potential quality of JPEG. Consider the implications of "almost all presentation purposes." I am saying that if you have an excellent source photo and render it as a JPEG, it will appear no better on most displays if you had saved it as an OpenEXR file instead, which has none of the weaknesses of JPEG. This is quite a high bar.
My point is simply that if you start with a less-than-perfect JPEG, your ability to fix it is hampered by the nature of JPEG.
Answer: Since "non-professional" is a rather broad term, it's eventually up to you to decide. But it helps making an informed decision. You'll need to understand the difference between the two formats.
JPEG is a lossy image format. It is optimized for storing photos with minimum visible distortion. However, it is lossy. Hence, if you want to change anything in your image after you've taken it, you are limited to what was preserved during the compression. Your camera may take a wrong decision, and you will loose information.
RAW is a lossless format. It saves everything seen by the matrix of your camera. Thus you can get the most out of your camera. Your computer is probably more powerful than the processor of your camera. And your brain is more capable than the automatic algorithms built into the camera. You can also spend much more time per shot than a camera can afford.
The question however is if you will want to spend this time. A good camera will usually perform very reasonable post-processing immediately, creating nice pictures.
Summary: If you don't want to bother, shoot in JPEG and save space and time. If you do want to play with and try to improve your images, shoot in RAW.
Answer: While professional photographers will use RAW pictures, for them the whole work flow from shooting pictures, processing them and getting to the final product must earn them enough money to justify the effort. If you take pictures for a hobby then you are not working under that constraint, so you have much more freedom to spend your time working with raw pictures, doing all sorts of processing on them to get to a nice result.
Comment: This is a good point, and along with the "safety net" aspect of inkista's answer, reinforces the fact that thinking of RAW format as "something for pros" doesn't really make sense. It's something for people with an interest in "developing" their pictures, period.
Answer: Both have pluses and minuses. Others already have addressed many of them, so I'll just add a few more considerations that haven't come up:

Disk space should still be a consideration. Sure, hard disks are cheap, but size still matters in many respects. Larger files means more time to back them up. More time to upload them to Dropbox or the like, if you use them. Higher bills from Dropbox etc. It can also mean the difference between fitting all wedding pictures onto a CD or DVD you burn for the couple, vs. having to split it between several.
Longevity. In the past, the limiting factor was the chemistry of the materials used. Today, it is software support. If the manufacturer discontinues a RAW format, you may end up not being able to access those files any more. Similarly, if you stored your files on hardware that is no longer supported, you may have problems. This type of digital rot is already becoming a problem. If you have Visicalc spreadsheets or an old ZIP drive (or even just a 5 1/4" floppy disk), you'll have a problem today.

Not saying that you should necessarily choose one format over the other, just a few more considerations to look at when deciding.
Comment: Shooting in raw does not imply archiving in raw; the chances of losing file support between the time the pictures are taken and the time they're developed are rather slim. You *may* decide to keep the raws around, but that's a separate choice.
Answer: JPEG will be a better option for you, if and only if you take pictures to store as memories or as a hobby. Managing, storing and editing JPEG images is easier.
You will face the following difficulties with RAW images.

RAW images are much larger, it will consume a large portion of your memory card.
It is not accessible in many image viewers,
shoot in RAW only if you want to edit later and make an amazing
photograph.
A RAW image contains a lot of information about the photo and you can
edit the photo effectively without damaging its contents or adding grain or exposure.

But again if its not for professional purposes, there's no point in putting so much effort.
Comment: I'd disagree with a significant proportion of this: editing RAWs is just as easy as editing JPEGs (you do it in Lightroom), and memory cards are big enough these days that it doesn't matter for a hobbyist as they won't shoot 2k shots in a day.
Comment: @PhilipKendall But if the user doesn't want to edit anything, whether raw or jpeg, then jpeg is easier. You don't have to convert a jpeg like you do a raw file, even one you didn't edit beyond letting the conversion application make all of the decisions automatically.
Comment: > editing RAWs is just as easy as editing JPEGs (you do it in *your choice of RAW development software*) ...fixed that for you. :P
Answer: RAW stores more information than JPEG and disk space is cheap, so why would you ever want to delete potentially valuable information right after taking the picture ?
If you have a machine that can create RAW then take advantage of it - otherwise it's like buying an expensive 4k video camera and setting it in 640x480 mode (remember those cheap webcams ?).
You can always get rid of that "extra information" (by converting it to JPEG) but you can't recreate it if all you have is a JPEG, which will be problematic if you happen need the RAW file later for whatever reason (editing, etc).
Check out this question for some examples of why RAW is important (or will become important, if you're still a beginner and don't have experience with RAW development software).

Raw vs Jpeg for non-professional use


Question regarding subclassing

Question: This is probably asked before but I have no idea what to search for. This is my hierarchy now: NSObject > FirstSubclass > SecondSubclass. But I'm going to implement a new feature in my app which requires changing a few details in FirstSubclass when a certain condition is met. So actually I would need a subclass between FirstSubclass and SecondSubclass to overwrite FirstSubclass' behavior. I do not need to overwrite things in SecondSubclass itself but I need some kind of super for all different SecondSubclass subclasses I have. I could change everything in FirstSubclass to use "if then statements" but first I wanted to be sure if there wasn't another option. Do I need a "protocol" for this? Like in SecondSubclass : FirstSubclasslass <WeirdThingIDontKnow> ?
Comment: Weell... And what is the question?
Comment: Edited it to ask what kind of "thing" I need.
Answer: It sounds like you need ducktyping. In objective c it can be accomplished by using respondsToSelector, performSelector or NSInvocation. This can simplify a class hierarchy a lot.
Answer: Create a new object that derives from FirstSubclass (say InBetweenSubClass) and overrides the necessary methods of FirstSubclass.  Then change SecondSubclass to derive from InBetweenSubClass instead of FirstSubclass.
There is no "override" equivalent in Objective-C, you just implement a method with the same signature and that method of the base class is overridden.  You can do something like this as well, if special condition is met, use new method, otherwise use the method of the base (super) class:
-(void) test
{
    if (self.specialcondition)
    {
        [self newTest];
    }
    else
    {
        [super test];
    }

}

Question regarding subclassing


Upgrading EE from 1.12 to 1.14

Question: We're considering to upgrade Magento EE to 1.14, now we have 1.12.
My question is if we have some webservices to upload the products and stuff with soap v2 it will have some changes?
And do you know if is easy or has some complications because I was searching and saw that is an important change from .12 to .14.
Is it necessary to do a complete backup of files and database?
Thanks for any information.
Answer: A full backup is always recommended during any upgrade attempt.  You should also make sure to do the upgrade in a dev/staging system first and test for errors.
The move from EE 1.12 -> 1.13 can be a bit tricky for some (depending on size of stores, etc).  There are changes to the way url keys are handled.  You need to make sure all of your url keys are unique.
Also, if you are using any kind of reverse proxy cache (nginx, varnish, etc) you will need to take some extra care/precaution due to the addition of form keys.
Good luck.
Answer: I'm in the same boat as you, but when I started a year ago, we were on 1.9...
how soap works won't change.
You'll have to upgrade to .13, then .14... and with each change comes more changes to your database, code, and styles. 1.13 changes how indexing, caching and the checkout flow operate... which means you have to make sure all of those still work before continuing onto 1.14, which includes responsive elements.
Yes, it is necessary to do a complete backup of the database and code... by creating a 'snapshot' of your site, you can move it to your development environment and make your changes on that before you roll them live. Saves a lot of time.
Comment: I'm just starting and oh my god Magento is so complicated xD but I'm getting it step by step.
So I can't jump the 1.13?
Comment: No, the updates are incremental, each one builds on the other. No skipping allowed :(
Answer: Any upgrade, big or small should have a full database backup. Files should be held in some kind of version control system so isn't as vital to backup files. Media files should not be effected either.
Soap will remain the same.
Finally it is possible to upgrade from 1.12 to 1.14, we have done this before multple times, however there were major indexer and url changes made during these versions and it would be a slight risk. However all that is happening is additional setup scripts would run all at once. One tool we use is n98-magerun using the incremental setup script run feature. It allows you to run setup scripts 1 at a time addressing any issues as they arise.

Upgrading EE from 1.12 to 1.14


What is cross-input signature aggregation and how would it work?

Question: I'm seeing lots of mentions of cross-input signature aggregation (CISA) lately. It appears to be something that one can do with Schnorr signatures. What is the main idea of CISA? What would a transaction look like that makes use of CISA?
Answer: The idea behind CISA is to only provide a single signature per Bitcoin transaction even when there are multiple inputs.
A key advantage of the Schnorr signature algorithm over ECDSA is its linearity. As Sachin's answer described already, this permits multiple signers to construct a single signature which proves a message's authorization by several keys.
In Bitcoin, traditionally each input requires a signature committing to a digest of the complete transaction, the sighash. For non-segwit inputs, each input's sighash was distinct (which was also causing the quadratic hashing problem), but the sighash is uniform for all segwit inputs in one transaction. Since all segwit inputs in one transaction commit to the same digest, a single signature can be used to satisfy multiple inputs.
The current sketch for CISA proposes to replace all but one of the corresponding witnesses with a one-byte placeholder and then to provide only a single signature for all the encompassed inputs in the last input's witness. For a transaction with n inputs, this would reduce the transaction data by n-1 signatures adding n-1 one-byte placeholders in their stead.
Comment: The MuSig paper says this also requires a change to outputs: "_Doing so requires a fundamental change in validation semantics, as the validity of separate inputs is no longer independent. As a result, the outputs can no longer be modeled as predicates. Instead, we model them as functions that return a boolean plus a set of zero or more public keys. Overall validity requires all returned booleans to be True and a multi-signature of the transaction with L the union of all returned keys._". Can you expand on this?
Answer: Schnorr Signatures and public keys can be aggregated (added together) such that
S1 + S2 = S3 and P1 + P2 = P3 where (S3, P3) is a valid signature-pubkey pair IFF (S1, P1) and (S2,P2) were valid signature-pubkey pairs.
Because of this, if a transaction has n inputs, the signatures of those inputs can be aggregated, so the transaction only needs one signature and public key even with any number of inputs, whereas a regular transaction would need n signatures and public keys.
The main benefit being block space (fee) savings.
Comment: Note that this is an oversimplification, and actually doing this would be completely insecure. But the principle applies indeed: keys can be combined in such a way that signing for the combination is easy.
Comment: The last second half of this post covers it in greater detail: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bitcoin/comments/ibcnsv/taproot_coinjoins_and_crossinput_signature/


How to capture Wifi 802.11 traffic?

Question: I want to capture the wifi traffic from my wireless card, so what i have to do and are there tools for that? I know that there is aircrack-ng and airodump, but these tools need a extra wireless adapter and is their a possibility to capture wifi traffic without buying a extra wifi adapter?
Comment: this is a software recommendation and is not valid here, so this needs to closed. Have a look at wire-shark and ettercap. airodump is for when you are not connected to a wifi... the other tools are once you are connected
Answer: Aircrack-ng, Fern, and other sectools for wifi pen testing are a capture and correlate type application. If you do not need automated correlation and are simply interested in traffic capture out your own Ethernet interface you can capture with wireshark, tcpdump, netcat, ettercap, net hogs, scapy, cloudshark, packetyzer and many many more. They all have the ability to capture wifi traffic on the local interface: see this wiki for tuts on how to capture using shark for Windows:
https://wiki.wireshark.org/CaptureSetup/Loopback
This has details of how to setup capture for LAN out of local device interface and for capture self generated  (local host) non Ethernet traffic from local host. (Use this to test if you are capturing). Hope this helps.
Answer: if you have an Android you can root it and use intercept-ng or Shark for root. and then read the capture files on your computer as well, one of my favorite packet analyzers is Network Miner
Answer: <code>arjun@arjun-Precision-T1600:~$ iw phy | grep -A 8 "Supported interface modes

    Supported interface modes
         * IBSS
         * managed
         * AP
         * AP/VLAN
         * monitor
         * mesh point
         * P2P-client
         * P2P-GO
</code>
If you get monitor mode in the list, you don't need to buy extra hardware.
Just put your card in monitor mode:
<code>$ iwconfig <wireless_card> mode monitor
</code>
Wireshark to the interface:
<code>$ wireshark -i <wireless_card>
</code>

How to capture Wifi 802.11 traffic?


How do I install raw drivers for my Panasonic LX100 on Windows 10?

Question: I can't seem to find RW2 codec support for my Panasonic LX100 for Windows 10 anywhere. Or, rather, everywhere I can find drivers that might work don't seem to support Windows 10. Has anyone found a good solution for this?
Comment: Is there a reason why you must view your raw images directly with the Windows viewer rather than with a Windows 10 application that can interpret .rw2 files, such as Lightroom, RawTherapee, Irfanview, etc?
Comment: @MichaelClark I assume it's to show thumbnails in Windows Explorer.
Comment: @scottbb I'd rather not assume.
Comment: Yeah--I'd like native support; Explorer, Image Viewer. I can start using a tool, but I'd like the files to render in everyday contexts, too.
Answer: I've got the same problem with my GX8 and wanted to have some kind of preview in Windows Explorer. I searched for hours and finally decided to try out and then buy FastPictureViewer Codec Pack.
It's very fast, but the preview image is not 100% accurate (you can see that when zooming in).
Answer: You are not alone. This thread ("Microsoft Camera Codec Pack for Windows 10 64-bit") at answers.microsoft.com seems to indicate that as of June 25, 2016, there still was no solution from Microsoft.
The basic gist is to try to install the Windows 8.1 Camera Codec Pack. A straightforward installation attempt doesn't seem to work. It seems that users were able to edit the 8.1 codec pack with a MSI editor (such as Orca), and remove the "Launch Condition". They were then able to install the MSI, and view their raw images in Windows Explorer and Photo Viewer.
Answer: I do not know anyone who hasn't been in your shoes :) I was recommended recently this software:  http://www.aftershotpro.com/en/pages/rw2-file/  and it works like a charm , not only for RW2 but for almost all RAW files (NEF, CR2, ARW...). Try it yourself and let me know how it works out


Can you create a new EA account with a second hand game?

Question: I would like to sell my copy of Battlefield 2, but I cant remember if the CD Key was used to create my login account. I would not like to sell the game to someone if they will not be able to create an account and log in with the same CD Key. Does anyone know how this works?
Comment: TC or Mod should really change the title. I thought TC was trying to sell his game on this website.
Comment: @Doug done and done.
Comment: I'm curious as to why you are selling it.  I checked on Amazon and it is selling new for $8.  The complete collection can be had new for $11. Do you have someone suckered into paying $20 for it?  If so, buy it off of Amazon and resell a new copy.
Comment: @Corv1nus. A few reasons. It is sitting on my shelf and gathering dust, it will never get played again, because I dont even own a windows PC anymore (and not interested in WINE / Virtual machine gaming). Even if it goes for US$8 its better than US$0 and having to eventually throw it away. Also, I am selling it on eBay, so apart from contributing to a cause (online market) I get a reputation point, as well as an extra $2 or so for the handling charges. Plus I am supporting the Battlefield community / franchise.  So there are a lot of factors to consider :)
Answer: I believe you CAN resell the game (since I've seen it used in stores -- pc) but the buyer has to pay a $20 reactivation fee unless you transfer your entire EA account to them.
Please note that you CANNOT sell Steam games and apparently it is against the EA t&c to transfer your EA account, so you can only sell it if you bought it somewhere other than Steam (probably in box form) and you can find out exactly how to get the reactivation working.  I'm fairly certain it exists, but I don't know how to do it, so I would encourage someone who does know to post an answer.
Comment: I was unable to find any information too, just more people saying it does exists.
Answer: I think anyone can register an EA account and you only need the CD-key to play BF2, i.e., the CD-key isn't associated with your EA account.
Answer: Legally speaking;
TLDR: It's complicated and you need a lawyer that will cost you way more than the game's worth. If you have a bunch of money to waste you can set a precedent, that's likely worthless as there are more EULAs than there are games.
It's likely the legal fine print will try to make it as difficult as possible for you to do this for any game with an online component if you used it with an online account in any way. I would need to check the Terms of Service for details, unfortunately EA seems to have misplaced it.
It will very likely contain a passage such as this (quoted from another ToS that isn't misplaced from another game from around the same time period, Medal of Honor):

Through this purchase, you are acquiring and EA grants you a
personal, limited, non-exclusive license to install and use the Software (...)

The important things to note are the personal and limited restrictions.
Nearly all big titles come with similar language; they're meant to be used by one single person, and publishers included language specific to attempt to prevent 'used game stores' from having a market. Worse, various countries will offer various levels of consumer protection. While a place like Gamestop could put its foot down, a single consumer will have a much harder time if it turns out the online part doesn't work.
Typically, if you've opened it and played it, the EULA forbids resale. Also, when it comes to online accounts, you're typically at the mercy of the server operator and have zero rights. After all, it's their server. That's basically the same in every country. If a game's key is blocked, then that's the end of it.
Used game re-selling is only a thing in so much that most (and almost all older) games themselves do not require registration and online accounts. Whence first sale doctrine may apply. The disk is required to play the game (via DRM) and hence can be viewed as a token of ownership, so since you can no longer play your game without the disk, you can pass it to someone else, or so goes the theory.
But, with online accounts and DRM, it's their rules. And here the law can contradict itself. With the DMCA provision forbidding the circumvention of 'protection measures' in place, a 'protection measure' could be engineered that prevents first sale from ever being applied, by linking the software with a personal account. Thus EA can, if it wants, block accounts that it thinks were resold. Even brick the game remotely (not that I know of cases of publishers doing this, consumers don't like practices like that).
One silver lining: Publishers tend to abandon their older titles eventually. Perhaps one day the servers for the online part will retire, and you can use the abandonware exception of the DMCA (the lynchpin that gives these EULA constructions weight), and ship the game with modifications that allow online play on community servers. That is, if such a community exists. At that point you're really selling the box and not the software license.
Technically speaking
So if you don't have any interest in playing the game, why not try it out? Install it on a windows PC, create an account, see if it works. If it does, terminate the account, uninstall it, and you can technically resell it.


Am I considered pure?

Question: If I am in a state of major impurity and I perform ghusl with water only allowing the water to flow through my entire body and after the ghusl the smell of impurity is still there is my ghusl considered invalid?
Comment: Does this answer your question? [How to perform Ghusl? And is my ghusl valid?](https://islam.stackexchange.com/questions/47944/how-to-perform-ghusl-and-is-my-ghusl-valid)
Answer: If you see najis in you body visible then you are not pure and the have to do ghusl again. If you just get smell of najis and don't see anything in your body you are pure.
Answer: in general using soap and a like is ok if you find that water alone doesn't remove the smell so you do a normal shower using these substances (soap and a like) then you do the ghusl and for that here is a good article about how it is done:
https://www.wikihow.com/Perform-Ghusl

Am I considered pure?


How can I tell boost cron run to delete a file

Question: If I have a custom module that maybe adds some fields, or reorders some data which is to be shown in the frontend: How do I tell boost, that the cached files should be deleted on the next cron run after I've made some changes?
Answer: First you need to set a flag which indicates that new fields are added. Can be a variable_set() or something similar thats stores values in DB whenever new fields are added.
In your hook_cron() you should check if the flag is set or not. If set clear Boost cache using boost_cache_clear_all(). Unset the flag once cache is cleared.
Comment: But I don't want to clear all the boost cache files. I want to mark some files for deletion.


How to avoid getting car light directly in eyes when on bike without using polarized glasses?

Question: When I come back from university, mostly it is late night. I am on bike and when I enter an area where there is no road light and having darkness every where. When a car came in front of me then it was irritating me and it blindens me for few seconds. How can I avoid this situation without using polarized glasses? Because in our country there is very rear.
Comment: Polarised glasses won't stop light getting into your eyes.
Answer: Ideally, you avoid having the car lights in your eyes at all - you can usually see when one is going to turn a corner or crest a hill and can avert your head. A peak on your bike helmet helps as you can just drop your head to look down, but even without a peak, your eyelids are pretty effective (don't close your eyes though :-)
If this is not possible, I have reasonable success with looking straight at the car - this does mean the cones in my retina can't then give me any useful info for a while, but as they are less useful at night anyway, at least the rods, which are better in low light levels, still work.
Answer: If you have a hand free (depends on the build of the bike) you can hold your hand in front of your eyes, screening out the car lights but allowing you to see something around your hand.
In the worst cases you may have to stop and stand waiting for the car to get past.
If it is safe to do so, closing your eyes for a short time might bring relief, but be careful if you are still moving, on a bike you are soon off the right track.


Aerating wort with an air pump. What's the proper gallon rating?

Question: I'd like to aerate three gallons of wort using my aquarium pump and 2 micron stone. The pump is rated for 10 gallon tanks. Is this sufficient?
Comment: Its not working.
Answer: Last time I heard someone tried to use an aquarium pump and a 2 micron stone it was a failure: the pump wasn't powerful enough. With a proper pump 30 min is said to be enough.
However, there was Beersmith podcast where some guys from Maltose Falcon club made a split batch with a few different aeration techniques, and aquarium pump rated below pure oxygen (obviously) and below shaking the fermenter vigorously for 1 minute (surprise!). Taken that pump+stone kit costs $60 here in Aus, I personally dropped the idea at all.
Comment: A 2 micron stone is standard usage with a pump. How strong a pump... is the question. A .5 micron stone which is used for faster force carbonation is less likely to work or so I hear.
Comment: Here is a link (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ey0RFWIpnj0 go to 20:47) to an Q&A by White Labs where they said that it was necessary to shake the carboy for 20-25 minutes to get the proper aeration. To be fair I heard everything from 5+ minutes to get 8ppm of oxygen from shaking. What is interesting is that she said it doesn't matter too much for the first generation of yeast, but it is subsequent generations that will be unhealthy.
Comment: @fthinker There was a lab-quality study done by a micro using 250ml reference worts in Ehlrenmeyer flasks and various methods of aeration, measuring with a dissolved oxygen meter. Surprisingly, they were able to get to 8-10 ppm of O2 by 45 seconds of vigorous shaking. The caveat is that it is a lot easier to shake 250ml than 19L. I use a tennis ball in the punt of PET carboys, and if I time my rocking correctly, I can get a prodigious amount of air into solution -- you can see it come out of solution as extremely fine bubbles (sort of like the foam that rises in a Guinness).


Reverse Stock Split with 1 share

Question: I would like some clarification on why my portfolio still shows that I own 1 share of CYTX at an average cost of $3.90, when in reality, I purchased 1 share for $0.39 several months ago? From what I've read, when you own less shares than the rever split, you are forced to cash out. Why is it not the case here?
Answer: If you have fractional shares after a reverse split, for the fractional shares you may receive:

A cash-in-lieu payment
Additional shares to round up to a whole number
Nothing

It all depends on what terms the company chooses
Answer: The fate of odd share amounts will be spelled out in the notice sent to share holders related to the split, reverse split, merger, acquisition, or whatever other share event.
It seems this particular reverse split simply rounded up to the next whole share.

Reverse Stock Split with 1 share


Can containers that held spoiled food be cleaned and be safe again?

Question: Came home from trip to a broken fridge and spoiled food in both glass and plastic containers.  All was a lukewarm mess.  Can I clean the containers and reuse them, or should I throw them out?
Comment: Plastic containers are usually inexpensive and fairly porous so I would personally throw them out without giving a second thought. The glass containers are certainly washable and re-usable but their lids may or may not be salvageable.
Comment: I have reused plastic buckets with mold in them for brewing after cleaning and sanitizing them (StarSan - phosphoric acid).
Comment: No they must be incinerate
Answer: If you can stomach opening the containers and the associated smell, most plastic and glass containers can be re-used with appropriate washing/sterilization.
I would discard the contents, rinse out the debris and scrub out any residue, including removing seals if possible. I would then soak in a 0.25% available chlorine solution (most household bleach is approx 4% available chlorine, dilute appropriately) for 30 min, then rinse the bleach off, wash in warm soapy water and dry. Bleach is very effective against bacterial and fungal contaminants. However, this approach can damage some components of containers, such as rubber seals, so treat with caution. Silicone seals/lids should be fine.
Plastic and glass containers can take up smells from the contents, as can the seals, so it would be worthwhile to give them the sniff test afterwards and see if you can smell any unpleasant smells that might be passed onto food subsequently stored in them.
Comment: Kimchi does have strong opinions, doesn't it? The glass itself won't absorb odors, but microscopic imperfections in the glass surface can retain traces. Simply washing won't remove the smell, but soaking in a bleach solution probably will. If all else fails, baking the glassware in an oven at 400 for a few hours should take care of it.
Comment: Glass won't take any smell @bob1.
Comment: @GdD kimchi begs to differ. I've personally washed the same glass jar several times that had contained kimchi and retained a faint but definite smell after the repeat washing, admittedly some of that smell may have been retained by the lid seal, but even after swapping lids the smell remained.
Comment: When using bleach for any purpose, be *very careful* that it does not get mixed with any other cleaning product. Bleach and ammonia will form toxic chloramine gas if mixed, and many household cleaning products include ammonia. In general, dilute bleach with water and nothing else.
Comment: Imagining the smell from opening those containers is making me queasy.
Answer: That's a unpleasant experience to come back to! You can re-use your containers, the hard part is going to be opening them and getting the spoiled food out. I'd suggest doing this outside if you have the space, preferably standing upwind of your garbage bag. A rubber spatula is a good tool for this.
If you have dishwasher safe glass containers they can go into the dishwasher, just rinse them first and put them on the most thorough cycle you have.
Once you have the plastic and non-dishwasher safe containers scraped out wash them very thoroughly in hot soapy water, changing it regularly. Lids can sometimes have a rubbery gasket in them, this should be pulled out if possible so you get at any food behind the gasket and clean the gasket thoroughly. If it won't come out that's fine, don't force it, use an old toothbrush to get in there and get any gunk out (this is a good idea whether there's spoiled food in it or not every once and awhile).
Glass containers won't take on any smells, if you have a smell from a glass container it's because it hasn't been cleaned thoroughly. However, plastic can take on smells from food, even when completely clean. I've tried wiping containers with both a distilled vinegar and a baking soda paste, mostly successfully. Just leaving the containers out and open for a few days has worked as well.
Comment: I do not recommend relying solely on a dishwasher for sanitization purposes unless the dishwasher has a "sanitize" setting.  Note that ansi-compliant sanitize settings use higher temperatures (typically at least 150°F), so they should not be used for "top rack only" dishes like plastic.


What sort of hip bone is required for quadrupedal animals to locomote on their hind legs?

Question: I am designing a creature that is quadrupedal but can run after prey on its hind legs. What kind of hip bone would allow for the excess stress to be put on it during bipedal locomotion? The animal is roughly the size of a mountain lion and weighs on average 100 pounds. It is a predatory carnivore. The planet it inhabits in very similar to Earth. It has an identical atmosphere that is 23% oxygen.
Comment: Have you already looked at the structure of real life animals that exhibit a similar mode of locomotion? An example would be hadrosaurs, which usually moved on four legs but ran bipedally.
Comment: Two rules for oxygen. Be somewhere between 0.16 and 0.5 atm for human breathability. But you can never have more than 35 % of the total atmosphere as oxygen, because above that concentration fires will never stop burning. This results in runaway wildfires bringing the oxygen content down to 35% again. Of cause the latter rule only applies if you desire to have a biosphere.
Comment: I have tried that but I couldn't find a good diagram of the hip.
Comment: Your oxygen content concern looks like a good separate question.
Comment: @TheDyingOfLight Thanks soo much, I'll update the question with this data!
Comment: This means you'll have 0.35 atm O2 should you insist on earthlike pressure. Should you want to go for the maximum breathable O2 content of 0.5 atm, the total pressure will be 1.43 atm. Be aware that fire will be viciously dangerous on your world.
Comment: This largely depends on how they move on two legs, are they vertical like kangaroo or upright like humans. in the former case not much has to change in the latter a lot has to change.
Comment: @John It would run on its hindlimbs vertically
Answer: The dinosaur Iguanodon comes to mind, and looking up iguanodon hip gave me these images

and

I hope this helps.
Comment: *Deinonychus* was a raptor genus, pretty quick, and the larger species were right in the size range the querent is after.  There is also some evidence they may have been the smartest of all the dinosaurs.
Comment: Yes, but is there a belief that *Deinonychus* went on all fours @ZeissIkon? That might be good for, say a skull, but maybe not too god for the hip
Comment: Ah, missed the "usually quadripedal" qualification.
Answer: For vertical facultative-bipeds (Adapted primarily for walking on four legs, but able to walk on two legs) the only real consideration they have is where the center of gravity.
Bipeds need the center of gravity directly over the feet, otherwise they fall over, that is why in facultative-bipeds like kangaroo and some hadrosaurs have small front limbs and large tails it moves the center of gravity as close to the hips as possible. Basically anything the animal can do to move the center of gravity this way helps.
What exactly will help depends on what their anatomy and pelvic anatomy in particular is like overall. note that although the front limbs are skinny they are still close to the same length as the back limbs otherwise they cannot walk on all fours. If you look at hadrosaurs it looks like their front limbs are very short but they are the only dinosaur with free floating shoulders so the shoulder blades add to the limb length.
the limbs proportions also look different because the hind limb  has to be able to support the entire weight of the animal while the front limbs only need to be able to support a a fraction of the weight. that is why dinosaurs also have larger pelvises compared to mammals, they need to be stronger and attack more muscle.
Answer: So, what you're asking for is called a facultative biped. There are many, many types of animals which are facultatively bipedal, even more than there are obligately bipedal animals. Some examples include pangolins, agamids, iguanas, sifakas, ornithopod dinosaurs, a lot of basal archosaurs like rauisuchians, prosauropods, ground sloths, chalicotheres, monitor lizards, beavers, raccoons, skunks, gibbons, indris, Eudibamus, baby sauropods, stegosaurs, tree kangaroos, and even cockroaches.
What's important here isn't the structure of the hip, but rather the distribution of mass. The main reason why the average quadruped can't walk on two legs is that too much of its mass needs its forelegs for support. If you have an animal where most of the weight is directly above the hips and hindlimbs, which never leave the ground, then you're good. Also, the hind legs should be longer than the forelegs.
Answer: There are lizard species that do this. For example Chlamydosaurus kingii, the Northern Australian Frilled Dragon that runs two-legged on land
Video: https://youtu.be/XAo09yYOpCU?t=29

and Basiliscus basiliscus, the Jesus Christ Lizard that can run on water!
Video: https://youtu.be/45yabrnryXk?t=40


If a recipe calls for 'ready-prepared potato wedges', what exactly does that mean

Question: Does it mean the frozen potato wedges you can find in supermarkets, or does it mean fresh potatoes that I've cut into wedges (if so, does that include/exclude the skin, or is that optional?)
Comment: Where is the recipe from? My (UK) experience is that unlike chips (fries) ready-prepared wedges are seasoned. This may not be the case everywhere
Answer: "Ready-Prepared" typically means a packaged product.  Many 'ready-prepared' potato products are par cooked and coated lightly in oil before freezing, so cutting your own may be a problem.
A specific recipe would be useful, so that we can give recommendations on how to deal with freshly cut potatoes (par cook vs. adjusting time/temperature of the whole dish)
Answer: Potato wedges are potato wedges, whether you cut them up yourself or purchase them already prepared.  Depending on the recipe and personal preference, skin is optional.  Recipes call for "ready prepared" ingredients when the author is attempting to save you time. So, in this case, it probably means store-bought, already prepared wedges. Really, it takes little time to peel and wedge a potato.  Plus you will be able to get a fresher product, and it will probably cost you less. Of course, you may have to alter cooking time, depending on whether or not the prepared item is already cooked.
Comment: Some store bought products that LOOK like pieces of cut potato are actually compounded potato products (eg some types of ready made fries are)...


what is better redirecting user from restricted area and not informing him what happend or telling him that its restricted?

Question: For example : user "is trying" to enter restricted area ( i.e. admin area on webpage ) , what is better kick him out from there without a single word or inform him that this is admin area and he is forbiden to enter.
Answer: Let him know that its restricted. To do otherwise smacks of security thru obscurity, and will also hinder genuine users who cannot access the area because of some other reason (they've mistyped their password, for example). At least if you let them know 'This is a restricted area, access denied) then they can eliminate the possibility that they're visiting the wrong url, for example.
Answer: If they shouldn't be accessing the page in the first place, and there is no legitimate way they could of got there I wouldn't bother with any courtesy messages.
Only reason you'd have one is for the benefit of legitimate users. No point being helpful to a potential attacker.
Answer: I usually clear his session and redirect him to the login page.
Answer: He'll know by virtue of HTTP redirect codes (302, etc.) if he was interested, so you might as well tell him. And IE might also do it's annoying "click" "click" everytime you redirect the page.
Answer: Depending on the technology you are using, this user will probably be automatically redirected to the login page and have a chance to identify himself as an administrator.
Answer: You could send back a 404 response as though the admin pages weren't there at all.
Answer: If they're "trying" to enter, that means that they already know it's an admin area, therefore, simply deny the login.  Better yet, protect the admin area so that they can't even "try" to login or get to that area at all (forbidden, IP Restricted, etc.)


Good recent historical grammar of Sanskrit, preferably in English?

Question: Does there exist a reliable, reasonably up-to-date historical-comparative grammar of Sanskrit written in English? Failing that, what are the standard works for historical Sanskrit phonology and morphology in other European languages?
Comment: Not quite what you need but worth mentioning: Manfred Mayrhofer, *Die Fortsetzung der indogermanischen Laryngale im Indo-Iranischen* (Wien, 2005).
Comment: Meier-Bruegger (2010) mentions Kobayashi, *Historical phonology of Old Indo -Aryan consonants,* available online http://www.gengo.l.u-tokyo.ac.jp/~masatok/hpiac_2004.pdf No opinion though, since this is not my area of expertise.
Comment: @AlexB. It's not available online there anymore. (Although a recent Google search gave me the same link when I was looking for an answer to a specific question.)
Answer: Burrow's The Sanskrit language (1955) is still very good (though pre-laryngealist). There is also an English translation of Mayrhofer's Sanskrit-Grammatik, which is short but also very good.
Comment: I am always skeptical of books that have been "updated" by someone other than the author. Burrow had strongly felt reasons for rejecting the laryngeal theory. These may or may not be valid, but they are fairly central to his thinking about old Indo-Aryan.
Comment: Thanks; apparently there is a third edition of Burrow which is updated to reflect laryngeal theory (though I haven't looked at it). But my impression is that there's nothing comparable to e.g. Weiss's Latin grammar in thoroughness or up-to-dateness -- would you say that's correct?
Answer: You guys never learn to use the Interet Archive. Re: Kobayashi: Go to https://archive.org/ and in the Wayback Machine frame enter http://www.gengo.l.u-tokyo.ac.jp/~masatok/hpiac_2004.pdf,
then you receive the list of IA copies, https://web.archive.org/web/*/http://www.gengo.l.u-tokyo.ac.jp/~masatok/hpiac_2004.pdf. On the attempt to donwload, you'll see that the archive copy dated 2020 appears red, which means the original file was no longer available during the attempt to archive it, but if you target the 2016 copy(copies) on the timeline, you'll be moved to https://web.archive.org/web/20160815000000*/http://www.gengo.l.u-tokyo.ac.jp/~masatok/hpiac_2004.pdf, and you'll see this one is marked blue, which means it is ok. Go there (move your mouse to the blue dot located on August 3 and then click on the blue link with the archive hour in a small pop-up window), and you'll get it. Bingo!
Re: Burrow: The third edition is available at https://archive.org/details/BurrowTheSanskritLanguage and also at https://www.academia.edu/38684965/The_Sanskrit_Language_Burrow. It was updated in 1973, seemingly by Burrow himself, and the 2001 Indian edition is but a reprint of it.


Can Superman see through his eyelids?

Question: Given that his x-ray vision allows him to see though skin, can he use this ability with his eyes closed? Or do they prevent it somehow?
Comment: It's the old "Can God create a rock so big not even he can lift?" question... Sure he has X-Ray vision, but he also has super skin!
Answer: Probably yes
How Superman X-ray vision works varies from comic to comic, but there is a feat that could prove that indeed it is possible for Superman to see through his eyelids: a Kryptonian seeing through his own skin.
Below you can see a picture (Supergirl #2 - actually I got the it from a Google images search that linked this question, so thanks) that shows Supergirl being able to see her own bones through her skin.

Would this cause Superman to be unable to sleep? Thankfully for him it's been shown repeatedly that he needs to purposely activate his power.

Comment: I have a vague recollection of having occasionally seen Superman use his X-Ray vision to check for broken bones, cellular damage, etc., in his own body or in other Kryptonian bodies. Some of that going back to "Pre-Crisis" (i.e. pre-1986) comic books, *I think.* But I've having trouble remembering exactly when and where I read those scenes. But I agree with you in principle -- I've read a lot of Superman comics, and I've never gotten the impression that his own flesh qualifies as "X-Ray-vision-proof!"
Comment: @DCOPTimDowd seems like the instinctive movement to do, even if it doesn't work
Comment: I just realized something. Why would she put her face in her hands right then? If the problem is she can see through her fingers, why shove them up to her face? Now I'm wondering if her eyelids actually **do** block the power and prevented her from seeing her own bones.
Comment: @Ram Instinctive, yes, but shouldn't she have pulled away if she had noticed it wasn't helping? Given her initial reaction, I'd assume so. I suppose it could've been a mental thing, like she was so disturbed by the image of her hands that she was able to quickly turn the power off (like the next panel suggests), but do we know how much time is between those two panels? Both Supes are in totally different positions, which could take at least a few seconds (longer if they're being dramatic), and her power isn't **starting** to fade until she's on the ground.
Comment: TL;DR I don't think I'm convinced they **don't** block the power somehow afterall

Can Superman see through his eyelids?


Testing a REST API client

Question: There many tools for testing REST APIs by mimicking a client, but I need the other side- test my client.
I wrote a simple server using Flask, but I was hoping for something that includes builtin logging, scripting and configuration out of the box with no need for coding.
Comment: http://www.mock-server.com/ will enable checking how your client reacts to different service responses, including illegal and expected error responses. But it required Java coding.
Comment: You can use Properties files for MockServer to implement it as well. I often use MockServer to do a MITM attack on the SUT using it's proxy capabilities and then verify the data being sent and returned. If you submitted this as an answer I would definitely upvote it.
Answer: Interfake is another option. You can create HTTP servers from a JSON file or through a straightforward JS API.
Answer: Have a look at Frisbyjs. It is built on top of node.js and Jasmin suitable for end2ent testing.
I would say easy to config and use.
Comment: There are a number of tools you can use - searching for "mock api" gives a number of options.

There's also http://jsonplaceholder.typicode.com/ which is a freely available REST service you can use to test your client.
Comment: Frisbyjs seems to be what I am not looking for, it's a tool for testing a server's API. I want to test a client that sends requests, not receive them.

Testing a REST API client


Question about verbs

Question: Can there be more than one verb in a sentence, such as one linking verb and one action verb?
Answer: A sentence requires one verb.
That one verb may have auxillary verbs, the auxillary verbs being the "-ed" or "-ing" form of the word, as well as forms of "be" or "have".  Unless you really need to drill down to the word level, it's best to think of the sentence as containing one verb that is expressed with multiple words.

I am going to the store.  <- "am going" is the verb.

You can have one subject and multiple verbs in a sentence if you link them with a conjunction.  Repeating the first auxillary verb is usually not necessary, but can be done for emphasis.

I am running and chewing gum at the same time.
I am running and am chewing gum at the same time.
I love and hate that movie.  Let me explain.

Words that are "-ed" and "-ing" verb forms, as well as infinitives, are not always verbs in a sentence.  They can act as nouns, or as part of adjective/adverb phrases.

To keep watch is necessary for security.

"To keep" here is equivalent to a noun.

Walking is necessary to keep oneself in shape.

"Walking" here is a noun.
Answer: Depending on what you intend to mean by 'verb', there may or may not be (or appear to be) several.
Comment: My (perhaps too obscure) point is that this answer contains up to seven verbs: you need to look up some definitions.
Comment: Here I'll give you one example of what i mean by verb: The steps leading up to the bank are very narrow. In this sentence I would see it as leading is one verb and are is another but I am not sure.
Answer: Simple answer: yes.
The frog is jumping.
Answer: Yes you can have more than one verb in a sentence. "The steps leading up to the bank are very narrow". I think that the verb "are" here is more about state of being than action, but is not a link verb. Indeed, you can also have more than one verb in phrases.
Answer: The following answer is the first, slightly modified part of one I wrote in response to a very similar question at English Language & Usage:
Theoretically, it is possible to have an infinite numbers of verbs in a single sentence. In actual usage, even simple sentences frequently contain more than one "main verb" in what is called a compound predicate.
Example:
 I closed my eyes and counted to ten. (Two verbs)
A sentence can contain additional verbs that are part of relative clauses, subordinate clauses, etc.
Example:
 (subordinate clause) When I looked outside,
 (independent clause) I saw the terrible damage
 (relative clause) that the storm caused. (Three verbs total)
Furthermore, a sentence can have several modal/helping verbs working together: I must have been living there for six months.
Answer: You're asking about lexical and structural verb and I say: Absolutely yes.
For example:
The leaves turns brown and falls on the ground.
[turn]=linking verb
[fall]=verb

Question about verbs


Can Lightroom detect corrupted images?

Question: Can Lightroom detect all sorts of corrupted images? I.e. make a smart collection where these are collected. I know that some corrupted images often are displayed as missing, and can be found automatically through this, but does this apply to all sorts of corrupted images?
Comment: DNGs provide a checksum to verify, but there are other ways. Lightroom could store a checksum per image in its catalog or in the sidecar file. In order to discover the corruption the image would have to be parsed by Lightroom - scanning all your images for corruption sounds like it would be slow.
Comment: I don't know about collecting them in a smart collection, but at least with the latest version of Lightroom, it does seem to put a small trianglular ! icon on each photo in grid-mode library view when an image cannot be loaded. This can be due to the image existing on disk but not being readable, being missing, etc.
Answer: No it doesn't. Lately I had a corruped one (see my post on Lightroom is not showing Photo correctly)
and LR didn't mention anything.

Can Lightroom detect corrupted images?


Combine a Mat map and a Normal map in Blender?

Question: So I have this model, which came with two maps:  that I just now learned that the colored version its the albedo map and the blue one its the normal map, now, I want to combine this two into just 1 Map, Is it possible to do it? I've read things but none of them make what I want to do.
The reason why I want to do this its because the software I'll (Pepakura Designer) use doesn't apply Normal Maps as they should.
I'm hoping someone can help me.
Comment: Yes you can ,will try to post the steps
Answer: The answer is yes you can do that. I am assuming you are working in the Blender Render Environment and not cycles as their material workflow is quite different.
Attached is the file for your reference. The material is an old 3dsmax metallic material and the normals map has been generated using shadermap3.

For Blender Render workflow.
1. Create a new material on the material Tab on the properties panel.
2. Next go to the texture Tab on the properties panel.
Settingup Albedo/Diffuse Map
3. Select an empty texture slot and click on "New"
4. Select open and point to your Albedo map on your harddrive.
5. Under Influence Header make sure "Color" is checked.
Setting up Normals Map
6. Select another empty texture slot and click on "New" again.
7. Select open and point to your Normals map on your harddrive.
8. Under Image Sampling Header make sure "Normal map" Option is checked.
9. Under Influence Header make sure only "Normal" is checked.
Here on out you should be able to see the normals texture in the viewport in "Textured Mode". Remember to add some light source or else your scene will just be blackish and dark.

Happy Blending!
Comment: Hey, that improved the look of the object, I'm almost there, now, is it possible to "bake" (I think its the right term) and just have one uv map looking like it looks on the viewer? So when I use Pepakura Designer, I only apply one map that would make it look like it has the albedo and normap map. I have been using Blender for some months but I'm not so skilled, and I don't know if I'm using the right terms.
Comment: Ok, so I guess I was right, I baked and it baked the two of them together, now... I'm still messing with the mesh and all of that, final details, but now I can't seem to see the object when in texture view, now it all looks grey, and before I could see the texture if i just selected the uv map...¿? Anyway, thanks for your help.
Comment: The way diffuse map and normal map are interpreted by the software is different. When you bake the texture out, you are essentially creating a 2D texture map and the normal map are now static and no longer dynamic. Dynamic means that when I move a light source, the surface of the material reacts to it's angle and changes the way the tiny grooves and crevices react to the light angle.
Comment: The whole point of normals map is that it should remain dynamic when applying as a material. With that said, there is normal map baking which is for another purpose really. Usually, baking normals are done for the purpose of transferring a high polygonal detailed model surface to a low polygonal version. Often used in the game industry. Because of real-time 3d games, models needs to have really low polycount ... but in order for them to look good, normal map are baked and apply on the model so the game engine knows how to interpret its surface.


Default View in document library not appearing

Question: I have created a view using Powershell for several document libraries.  The view is created and set as default for each library, yet when I visit the page, the standard view (All Documents) always appears.  I've checked the settings on the view and it is indeed the default.  Any thoughts?
Answer:
when I visit the page

What page, and how do you visit it? A view is a new ASPX page so maybe you need to update some navigation items or links in HTML content. Try navigating to the library URL without the /Forms/Allitems.aspx and see which view loads first.
e.g. https://company.sharepoint.com/sites/Marketing/Brochures/
Also if you have put a view of a web part on a web part page, make sure to configure the web part to always load your Knowledge view - this has to be configured on every page, especially if you put the web part there before the view existed.


Apache2 ssl with ecc

Question: Is it possible to configure Apache2 to use elliptic curve crypto (ecc) with SSL? This bug https://issues.apache.org/bugzilla/show_bug.cgi?id=40132 appears (to me) to indicate that this is supported, but I can't find any instructions anywhere.
Answer: Or rather look here
http://httpd.apache.org/docs/2.4/mod/mod_ssl.html
Support for EC Key Exchange has been added here.
Comment: Welcome to Server Fault! Whilst this may theoretically answer the question, [it would be preferable](http://meta.stackexchange.com/q/8259) to include the essential parts of the answer here, and provide the link for reference.
Answer: Apache supports ECC Certificates and Protocols as of version 2.2.26. Though if you are using an Apache server from a distro's repository it may be the same version. Ubuntu for example added support in version 2.2.22-1ubuntu1.9.
If you have a version that supports ECC certificates, it should be enabled by default. Assuming you're using OpenSSL, the commands to generate an ECC key and CSR are:
ECC P-256 Key:
openssl ecparam -out server.key -name prime256v1 -genkey

ECC CSR:
openssl req -new -key server.key -out server.csr

The installation steps for ECC certs in Apache are identical to RSA. You'd still specify the public key entry, private key entry, and the relevant intermediates. Just double check that your CA supports the issuance of ECC certificates. You can double check ECC compatibility to address any concerns with connecting clients.
Answer: It doesn't look like it. You can find a list of supported Ciphers here: http://httpd.apache.org/docs/2.0/mod/mod_ssl.html#sslciphersuite
Answer: Apache 2.4 has the support for ECC in the trunk and you could download or update or build those versions of Apache. Also, if you would like to use ECC then you would also need a OpenSSL version that provides the plumbing for it. Also the OpenSSL version should have the optimizations that Google engineers have contributed for speeding up ECC operations. For more details on Apache and OpenSSL (building with ECC), please see:
http://khanna111.com/wordPressBlog/2012/09/11/94087-2/

Apache2 ssl with ecc


Is it possibile to attach snippet only to specific project in Sublime?

Question: I tried to save the snippet files in the project folder but it is doesn't work.
Do you have any other idea?
Answer: With a custom plugin

EDIT: a generalisation of the following plugin has been published at
  https://packagecontrol.io/packages/ProjectCompletions

If you put this plugin in your User folder under the name ProjectCompletions.py
import sublime_plugin

class ProjectCompletions(sublime_plugin.EventListener):

    def on_query_completions(self, view, prefix, locations):
        return view.window().project_data().get("completions")

You can inject completions using a "completions" entry in your project file:
{
  "folders": ...
  "completions":[
      ["I", "I am a ${1:snippet} baby!"]
  ]
}

The format for completions is [trigger, snippet]. More elaborate approaches are possible so that the scope is also taken in account.

In an indirect way using the ProjectSpecific plugin
With that installed, you can use the settings key of your project file to install additional commands.
Then to enable a snippet you can add this to your project:
{
    "folders": ...
    "settings": {
        "project-specific": {
            "sublime-commands": [
                {"caption": "My Snippet",
                 "command": "insert_snippet",
                 "args": {"contents": "I am a ${1:snippet} baby!"} }
            ]
        }
    ...
    }

}

and you'll find the "My Snippet" command in the command palette only in the current project.
You can also bind keys in a project specific way. By binding them to the insert_snippet command you can achieve a similar effect without having to go through the palette.
Comment: @Amina just published! https://packagecontrol.io/packages/ProjectCompletions (it supports scope-specific completions as well, see readme)
Comment: @Amina with a custom plugin it is easy to get autocompletion (see edit)
Comment: If I find the time I will package it for Package Control, it may be useful for others too (me included!)
Comment: Thank you, but it is not a snippet, (snippet are autocompleted...)
Comment: WOW!!! Thank you very much, tested and working great. I want to give you half of my reputation score :)
Comment: Added an example gif animation pull request...


Wire size question

Question: I am trying to figure out AWG from a European/German schematic. The wire is listed as 0,3mm. (That's 0 (comma) 3mm.)
I can find wire for sale in this diameter, but I need a reference to AWG. Is anyone familiar this measurement?
The circuit is two parallel 807 vacuum tubes. The wire mentioned above is to wind a parasitic suppressor in both of the plates of the tubes.
Thanks.
Answer: 0,3 mm in English is 0.3 mm.
A Copper Wire Table tells me that #28 wire is 0.321 mm, and #29 is 0.286 mm.
Comment: Thank you Peter. I was confused as to if the 0,3 was referring to diameter or mils. Thanks for your answer.
Answer: There are online AWG-metric conversion sites. A comma in Germany shows the decimal place. You also should be able to figure out a safe wire size knowing the maximum plate current (e.g. from the power supply transformer rating). Somewhat larger-diameter wire is acceptable, and may be preferable from a mechanical standpoint.
Comment: Thank you! My confusion was if the 0,3mm was saying it was .3mm diameter, or .3mm circular mils, which would be 22 gauge.
Answer: 28.5AWG is exactly 0.3mm diameter. Not every manufacturer produces half sizes, and for most inductors it won't be that critical to be off half a size either way.
  For fill calculations (if it's a toroid or closed core) you need to be looking at the size over insulation, and not the nominal, and that will depend in the covering you choose. Carefully hand-wound parts may get away with thinner coatings that would be damaged by the forces involved with machine winding.
https://essexwire.com/sites/essexwire.com/files/2017-08/Essex-Wire-Engineering-Data-Handbook-EN.pdf
Comment: Ok, thanks Phil. For a parasitic suppressor, they specify to wind the coil around a 100 ohm, carbon composition, 1 watt resistor. I'm not sure why, but the diagram is very specific. Here's a link to the diagram, the suppressors are in the plates of the 807s. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ehp6tud66x3cw3d/MorningStar%20original.gif?dl=0
Comment: Thanks Phil. With two 807s in parallel, it's going to be approximately 75mA, 500V on each suppressor that I'm building. They will be wound around a 100 ohm carbon resistor. This seems like very small wire, but the diagram is proven (supposedly.) Any thoughts? Thanks again.
Comment: If it's a single layer wind, the only voltage the wire sees is the turn to turn, unless there are some very high frequencies, if there are multiple layers it'll be higher. Can't you find a ready-made inductor? This seems not to be that special.

Wire size question


How can US20200206098A1 be patent-worthy when FR3037791B1 discusses the same things?

Question: How can US20200206098A1 be patent-worthy when FR3037791B1 discusses the same things?
Comment: If you could provide links to the documents it would save every one some time. You want to make it easy for people to answer your questions.
Answer: This is not my field. Also an evaluation is complicated by the fact that FR3037791B1 is in French and I don't speak that language. I used Google Translate to get the following as the first claim.

Cosmetic packaging article comprising: i) an envelope defining at least one cavity, the envelope consisting of at least one film, said
film comprising at least one surfactant and at least one film-forming
polymer and ii) at least one composition, of preferably in the form of
a paste or a powder, comprising at least one compound chosen from: a)
coloring agents chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes, and / or
mixtures thereof; and / or b) chemical oxidizing agents; it being
understood that the composition ii) is in one of the cavities defined
by the envelope i).

Compared to the first claim of US20200206098A1

A cosmetic product for changing the natural colour of keratinous fibres, comprising (i) at least one package (VP) comprising a
water-soluble film (F), (ii) at least one cosmetic composition (KM)
which is packaged in the package (VP) and comprises at least one
oxidizing compound, (iii) at least one cosmetic colour composition
(FZ) which is packaged in the package (VP), wherein the oxidizing
compound is a solid oxidizing agent and is selected from the group
consisting of a percarbonate salt, a perborate salt and a percarbamide
salt.

I'm not a chemist, but I definitely get that the two claims have similarities. All I can say is that US20200206098A1 is only an application and it may indeed not be granted in light of FR3037791B1 or other prior art. Also it is very likely that the application's claims will be changed and narrowed to avoid prior art.
Answer: The application got a non-final rejection on 9/22/2020 on a few grounds. The only art cited is US20140008285. Apparently neither the applicant (in the IDS) or examiner considered the ref. you list as the closest art.


Candy crush saga Level 50

Question: After 20 or so tries I finally passed level 50 on candy crush saga, but now I can't move on without paying to unlock new levels or asking friends on Facebook. What's up with that? And the little owl icon said it would "unlock new dreamy content" after I passed level 50 too, but no such luck. What am I missing? I only got one star, is that not a passing grade?
Answer: As long as you get one star you have passed that level.
You should be able to unlock the next episode by completing quests. Click on the play quests button as shown here:

If you don't see the quests button you should logout of Facebook and try again. This feature is so that players without an Internet connection can continue playing the game.
The "dreamy content" is called the Dream World. There are currently 320 levels to play in the Dream World with slightly different game mechanics (you have to keep Odus the owl from falling off a ledge).
To access this you need to click on this button:
Answer: If you play Candy Crush on phone you can do the Mystery Quests. If you complete one quest, you have to wait 24 hours before you do one. So in other words that's around 72 hours to wait.
As for unlocking the new dreamy content, you actually have to unlock the next episode that's after level 50 before you can access it. It does not matter how many stars you got on level 50. You must unlock level 51 first.

Candy crush saga Level 50


Data storage limit exceeded?Reasons?and solutions?

Question:
How to overcome the above defined error which occcured while creating a new record?
Answer: This simply says the data storage allocated for your organization has been exceeded. You have to delete records and free up some space or purchase additional space. You can see your available data storage by navigating into Setup > System Overview. And you can monitor your usage by navigating into Setup > Administration Setup > Data Management > Storage Usage
If you can confirm some records to be deleted, Mass delete record feature will helpful for you. You can find it at Data Management > Mass Delete Records under Administration Setup (You should have required permission). There maybe lots of Task and Event records hopefully where  you no need. You can delete them and free up some storage.
Comment: Just to echo what hivefive and Himanshu have already said, it's worth looking at https://developer.salesforce.com/docs/atlas.en-us.salesforce_app_limits_cheatsheet.meta/salesforce_app_limits_cheatsheet/salesforce_app_limits_storage.htm which will give you a detailed explanation of Storage Limits although I'd say the question's been answered sufficiently here.
Answer: As you might have know that Salesforce work on multitent architecture which put some governer limit across the system. Data storage is one of them. it depends on per User License in different Salesforce edition.
Please find below table with different edition.

Storage is divided into two categories: file storage and data storage. File storage includes files in attachments, the Documents tab, the Files tab, the File field, Salesforce CRM Content, Chatter (including user photos), and Site.com assets. Data storage includes the following:
Accounts
Article types (format: "[Article Type Name]")
Article type translations (format: "[Article Type Name] Version")
Campaigns
Campaign Members
Cases
Case Teams
Contacts
Contracts
Custom objects
Email messages
Events
Forecast items
Google docs
Ideas
Leads
Notes
Opportunities
Opportunity Splits
Orders
Quotes
Quote Template Rich Text Data
Solutions
Tags: Unique tags
Tasks
Go to Setup-> Data management-> Storage Usages and check which object is using most space.. If you think that any object which is not useful to you and have most of the space you can delete those records but if you need you can purchase extra data space from Salesforce.
Answer: You can run this script in anonymous window if you just want to quickly delete test files from your sandbox:
<code>Database.delete([SELECT Id from ContentDocument], false);
</code>
Answer: You can safely and easily mass delete data from the org to return the org to a state of being under the storage limit as well as maintain that status going forward with Storage Helper. Storage Helper is a native Salesforce app that can mass delete data from any object and also has built in options to backup the records it deletes as well as capability to search and restore records just in case. It will send you email alerts when you are nearing your storage threshold so that you don't get this error again. It can also be setup to automatically run after a Salesforce Data Export or on a scheduled basis.
Comment: Please have a read of [How to not be a spammer](https://salesforce.stackexchange.com/help/promotion). If you push your product without disclosing your affiliation, you are likely to get flagged for spam. If you come to this exchange only to push your product, it is still a strong possibility.
Comment: Are you affiliated with this app?
Comment: Yes, I work for Passage Technology.


Cron in Windows

Question: i am using Windows and i need to schedule a php task in this. Can anyone help  me on this by explaining how to use cron here?
Answer: cron is a Unix utility (although you can get a Windows port of it). However, you should try using Windows Scheduler instead.
Answer: Use Windows Task Scheduler - http://support.microsoft.com/kb/308569
Or you can try cron in cygwin, see How do you run a crontab in Cygwin on Windows?
Answer: Cron is not built into Windows. However, you can use the schtasks command which you can use to add/remove tasks from the schedule.
Also take a look at Windows Task Scheduler.

Cron in Windows