Can I tenderize conch meat with baking soda

Question: I want to tenderize conch meat with baking soda for the first time.  It works on meats, beef, pork and chicken, but I have never tried it on conch meat. I have in the past, tenderized conch by pounding it and cooking for long periods.
Answer: While you might get a tiny bit of tenderizing from a baking soda soak, it won't do much to transform the physical structures that make conch tough.  Mechanical tenderizing is the way to go - together with (typically) a very long and slow cooking time, or possibly cooking with a pressure cooker.
If you decide you want to try a baking soda "brine" I would recommend soaking briefly AFTER you pound the conch and making sure to wash the conch thoroughly afterwards to make sure you don't retain a soapy taste of baking soda that would ruin the subtle flavor of conch.
If you are interested in a chemical tenderizer for conch, you might consider some form of acid-based marinade - although, again, a marinade is going to transform the delicate flavors that characterize conch.
Basically, if you want to enjoy the conch-y taste of conch, I would go for tenderizing with a mallet and judicious cooking only.
See also:  How should baking soda be used to tenderize meat?
Comment: I love that there are answers to this question, period. This makes me appreciate this resource that much more.
Answer: You can try to tenderize the conch meat with a hammer as you are cleaning it, and put it on slow cook using a pressure cooker. Do not open it until all water is dry. Put enough water in,  don't put salt at all and use bitter orange for the cleaning instead of lemon. Spice it with garlic and hot pepper in the cooking water.  I'm from Haiti - trust me, I know how to cook conch.
Comment: This doesn't answer the question @MaglineM, the OP is asking if you can use baking soda.


BJT base connected to ground and still operates?

Question: When in university I used to get confused how a transistor (NPN) can draw current from ground. I'm now studying power amplifiers and again, this same configuration appears. How does Ir draw current from seemingly nothing/ground?
Comment: Ground isn't nothing; it's just the voltage that you've arbitrarily chosen to call zero. Notice that the base-emitter junction is connected on the other side to a negative voltage. What matters is the voltage at the base minus the voltage at the emitter; voltage is always relative.
Comment: Assume that Vcc > Gnd > -Vcc
Comment: Put the minus probe of a voltmeter to -Vcc and the plus probe of the voltmeter to ground.  What voltage do you measure?
Answer: Simply redraw the circuit and you will see from where this base current is coming from.

simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab
As you can see the \$Q_2\$ base current is coming from \$\textrm{Vee}\$ voltage source.
And flows this path:
+Vee--->R1---> Q2 base-emitter junction--->-Vee
And remember that in the electronic ground is just a reference point, not a real Earth ground. And we are measure all our voltage with respect to this reference point called ground.

To measure the voltage we need two points in the space. One of this point is treated as a reference point.
We have a very similar situation when we try to measure a height of an object. We need a reference point. The most common reference point is "above mean sea level".
But when you measure the height of the table in your house the floor now becomes your reference point.
Answer: Current flows from the higher potential to the lower potential and since the base is connected to ground '0V' and the emitter is connected to a negative voltage which is less than 0V(because its negative!!).
The emitter base junction will be ON if the emitter voltage is sufficiently below ground.About 0.6V below ground for silicon transistors.
Since the base-emitter junctions is ON.Current will flow from ground through the base resistor to the base-emitter junction.This current constitutes the base current and hence a current from the collector of the lower transistor will flow to its emitter.
Answer: There are two things to consider when thinking about "how could it work, having the base connected to ground?" - one is the DC question - how could the transistor ever be biased "on" to work, which others have tackled (basically: "ground" here is part way between the two power supply rails so the emitter is negative with respect to the base, so Q2, an NPN transistor, will be happily acting as a constant current sink - albeit with the slight complication that the current will be hard to control unless the diode is at the same temperature as the transistor!)
But the second part of the question is to look at the AC (signal) viewpoint - the emitter is connected to negative, the base also is getting no signal, so (you may ask) why should there be any signal on the output? The answer to that is the top transistor, fed with the input signal in an emitter-follower configuration, will determine the output voltage... if Q2 draws a constant (say) 100mA then if Q1's iE varies from 0 to 200mA the output current will vary between -100mA and +100mA.
Answer: If you do your calculation with -Vcc = -15V and for example R=10k and diode voltage is 0.7V then you get this result;
Vcc=Ir*10k+0,7V
then Ir = 1.43 ma
so connecting to ground doesn't mean it will not draw any current.
(KVL from left ground to -Vcc)


Inconsistent ContentDocument Query Results

Question: Using the Developer Console as System Admin:
The result of this query:
SELECT Id FROM ContentDocument
does NOT contain the row returned from this query:
SELECT Id FROM ContentDocument WHERE Id='069xxxxxxxxx'
I've also tried ContentVersion.ContentDocumentId queries - also no luck.
The Salesforce UI does show that record to me (I can upload new versions for example).
Is there a better way (Apex) to get all ContentDocument  records?
Answer: Are you the record owner?
If no, then it looks like a known issue:
Obtaining all ContentDocument records using SOQL


What is PG pub issue notifcation means?

Question: My patent transaction history is below. What does PG-Pub issue notification means? Does it mean my patent is approved and it is visible to public?
Answer: No and Yes
It is not an indication that it is approved but it is an indication that the application is about to be published for the public to see. Note that a few actions below you see that a non-final rejection was mailed. There are a few steps after a rejection before you get a patent.
The information you posted is from one of the tabs in Public PAIR that gives a sometimes cryptic note of actions on your case, not all of which are of any substance. Another nearby tab will bring up the file history and you can see the entire detailed back-and-forth between you and the office, including your rejection.
Comment: Thanks for the info. I could see some of my claims have few sentences that collides with another patent.

What is PG pub issue notifcation means?


Data repositories for data on the Tumor Microenvironment?

Question: Does anyone know of any data repositories for data on the Tumor Microenvironment? I know of the The Cancer Gene Atlas and the Gene Expression Omnibus databases but I'm more curious about data on the (molecular) composition of the TME. (I'm also curious about any databases with data less specific.)
Answer: Have you seen the St Jude Children's Research Hospital Pediatric Cancer data repository PeCan?
They have a bunch of data on a wide range of different types of pediatric cancers. These are all in the form of genomes and RNA-seq. However, they also have a bunch of visualizations set up so that you can see how these profiles work from a perspective of mutations and RNA in tumours of all sorts.


Alternatives to bilinear interpolation for raster extraction in R

Question: I have a set of coordinates for which I want to extract temperature values from a raster. I am using the extract function from the raster library in R. Looking at the interpolation methods, there are options for simple and bilinear interpolation. I am not very familiar with raster extraction literature but I was wondering if there are other alternatives in R for other interpolation methods which give a better estimate for values at a point than bilinear interpolation. Also is bilinear the usual method used in practice? Thanks.
Comment: Common raster interpolation methods are mentioned in the question at http://gis.stackexchange.com/questions/10931.  The answers there study their properties.  "Better" depends on the purpose of the interpolation and the nature of the data, though: no single interpolation method is always best in all circumstances.
Answer: Bilinear its a good approach when you are working with continuous data and its very usual. Simple it's useful when you are working with discrete data, because you don't generate new values of the variable.
extract() allows other methods, using buffer and fun arguments.
Comment: Thanks. Do you suggest any other methods that are used in practice?
Comment: Most of the time I work with continuous data, so i tend to use 'bilinear'


Texture Assistance Needed

Question: I am trying to import an .obj, however when I load the model, it is grey. All tutorials I found online are for older versions of blender. I was wondering if anyone could help me out real quick. Apologies, as I have just downloaded blender today and am learning. Thanks
Comment: This is a question and answer site. You have not asked any questions.
Answer: Normally all objects are grey when imported, you have to add a material first, then the textures in the SHADER EDITOR, and switch to the rendered view, right now you are in object view which is white for all objects. For the shading in the shader editor Shift + A-->Texture-->Image Texture, which will add a texture, open the file of your texture in browse and plug the colour to base colour and alpha value to alpha in the Principled BSDF. Also please reply if only rotation or parts of the texture are on the object(usually they are not). This method is really old and basic so that's why you can't find tutorials in the new versions.

Texture Assistance Needed


Quick way to view previous clip in Premiere's Source window?

Question: Sometimes I'm viewing a clip in the Source window, in Premiere.  Then I open a different clip in the Source window.  Is there a way to quickly get back to the previous clip, without having to burrow through the Project folders again?
Answer: I just found it by accident. Hit shift2 to go to the source viewer window, and hit it again to cycle through the previously opened clips. There's no display to tell you which clips are in the queue, other than right-clicking on the viewer tab, and the order seems to be alphabetical rather than chronological, so you might have to hit the shortcut a number of times.
Answer: Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure Premiere doesn't have the capability you described.
The only way I know to make searching through the project folders a bit easier is to use Prelude (assuming you have access to it as a part of Creative Cloud) to rename all your files easily. Prelude can add an incrementing number to the front or back of the name of each clip, which can make it easier to find out which clip you just viewed (if you're watching Clip 005, then Clip 004 was the one before it).


SPFx API calls, getting around threshold when getting data from two related lists

Question: I'm currently trying to create a custom web part to display list items in an easy to read format. This web part essentially uses the REST API to grab the items and put them into a nicely formatted HTML list on the left hand side of a page. Upon clicking an item, it will then populate the right hand side of the page with the information for that specific item.
The second list is used for storing when users have "read" the above list items. When an item on the left hand side is clicked, an API call is made to add an item to this second list, signifying that the user has read that item (if they haven't read it before). Unread items are then displayed in bold while read items are not, so users can see what has already been read. It is important that users read these articles, hence the need for read tracking.
So the lists are laid out as follows:
Article list (main list that is used for the items):
ID
Title (Summary of info)
Text (Main body of info)
Author (Author of info)
Article Read Tracking list:
ArticleID (the ID of the item in the article list to link which article has been read)
User (email address of the user as single line of text)
ReadTimeStamp (the time the item was read by the user)
The User and ArticleID columns in the read list are indexed.
How the page currently works is I get the top 100 items, paginated and descending by ID. I then get the top 100 read items, paginated, descending by ArticleID and filtered to the currently logged in user's email address, so that the read items match the ID of the 100 articles collected previously.
This all works fine until a user has created over 5000 items in the read tracking list, as the filter on user in the read list starts throwing a threshold exceeded error.
My main issue is that I am unable to just get the top x items from the read list and then filter, as it may miss out read items from the top 100 article items, depending on how many other users read those 100 items. For example, if 100 users read 100 items, that's 10,000 items, meaning the currently logged in user will only get 50 of their 100 read items.
However, if I try to $filter=User it throws the exceed error because it's finding over 5000 items, even if I use the $top to try and limit it to 100.
Is there a way around this? I feel like I'm missing something but I'm not sure what.
This post is a bit of an information dump, but hopefully it makes enough sense!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Answer: SharePoint has 5000 item limit threshold
check this link how to overcome that limit.
Link:
https://sharepointmaven.com/how-to-overcome-sharepoint-5000-item-limit-threshold/


Network manager does not show Mobile Broadband

Question: I have an internal Mobile Broadband network card on my laptop but the network manager does not pick it up. I only see WIred and Wireless.
Answer: There is currently an open issue on GitHub about this and I have just recently got a Mobile Broadband device to do some development and testing so I can hopefully get this feature implemented.
However, in the mean time, you may still be able to configure your card by doing the following:
Settings -> Network -> Edit Connections (at the bottom) -> Add -> Mobile Broadband
If your device has been detected and has drivers, you should be able to configure it following those menus.
Comment: Thanks. I am aware of the procedure of adding broadband. The problem is that I am contiuously switching between Wireless and Mobile and need an easy way to select. Currently I have to have my mobile connection "Automatically connect to this network when available."
Comment: suggest you check out the mncli command (network manager CLI) you may be able to set it there and if so ... you should be able to script it which should solve your issue


2016 ford explorer signature LED headlight issues

Question: My passenger headlight is out and the drivers stays on for good 10 min after the truck is turned off and it will blink several times. Also while driving the drivers light will change from daytime running brightness to full nighttime brightness
Comment: Welcome to the site. What exactly is your question here? What have you investigated to try and fix your issue?
Comment: Wanted too find out if anyone has had similar problem or worked on explorer with this problem you can't just buy replacement led lamp from Ford you have to get entire  headlight assembly for 800.00  I figured it is electrical issue since one light is out and the other isn't working properly
Comment: I'm not sure how the Explorer's headlights are done, but you could try and see if the passenger side bulb will work on the driver's side ... at least illuminate. This will tell you if it's good or bad. You can also check stuff as Solar Mike mentions in his answer just to see if there are any issues there.
Comment: Was this ever resolved? I don't see any reference to the headlamps staying on any longer than 3 minutes in SI. Any error codes pulled from modules would be nice. In this particular Ford, like most others, the BCM detects a headlight request, sends power through an FET and communicates with the headlamp module to control lighting. If one isn't working it's either a BCM, wiring or headlamp assembly problem. There aren't separate fuses for each headlight like in older models.
Answer: Check the supply and fuses and bulb unit to get the passenger side working : this is for safety and therefore higher priority than the other questions you ask.
Answer: Explore has 2separate fusses 1 for the right side  and 1for left head light
Left light  sounds like it might be trying to tell you that the right light is out    or it has something to do with the alarm system
Answer: If it's a 2016 model year, it should still be under factory warrantee.  If so, have a Ford dealer fix it.
Answer: The ballasts are typically the issue....poor design at the very bottom of the headlight housing makes them very sensitive to moisture.   Fuses will not fix the issue. Here are typical errors codes for such problems enter image description here
Comment: Welcome to stack, because pictures eventually go bad or go away and are not searchable, can you add the text of the message to your answer?


How would you move a sail boat with no wind or paddles

Question: If I stood on a sailing ship and had a very strong pair of lungs (possibly motorized) then if I blew the sail would I be able to move the ship forwards?
Comment: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airboat
Comment: @Solar Mike you are sooooo wrong here.  Take a look, for example, at  the famous "reverse flow in lawn sprinkler" problem.
Comment: "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" so NO, the force you apply to the air leaving your lungs is opposed by the force by your feet on the deck...
Comment: @SolarMike This is a complicated question to handle directly, but consider we can sail downwind several times faster than the true wind speed, and in fact, can now sail upwind faster than the wind speed, so yes, you can do this productively even in a steady state situation. You can blow in any direction you like and construct a sail that will propel the boat. Consider a pelton bucket that reverses the flow. The bucket's reaction force is twice the source's reaction force.
Comment: @SolarMike Of course you can.
Comment: @CarlWitthoft here is an example of action and reaction : https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x-yGSIYkeOs
Comment: @PhilSweet so you mean you can stand on one pelton bucket and blow on the one in front to get rotation?
Comment: The question(without question mark) in your title is different from the question in your description.
Answer: The answer, despite what several responders think, is unequivocally YES . However, you will get more efficient propulsion just by blowing directly backwards. All a sail does is deflect wind, thus changing the direction of momentum (with the help of your keel or centerboard).
The reason this works is that when you blow, you are expelling air more or less purely in the stern direction, and equal/opposite reaction rules apply.  However, when you inhale, you draw air in from more or less all directions, and there is next to no effect on the boat's momentum.
Anyone who continues to doubt this is referred to swamp air-propellor-powered boats, as in agentp's comment.  airboat
Comment: Prove your statement by giving us a video of you standing on the deck and blowing on the sail.
Comment: @SolarMike give us a break, 'mkay?  Just draw the force diagram.
Comment: In a more artistic view, you should jump (diagonally forward) first then blow at the sail. In that sense, you are removing the action-reaction from blowing. LOL. In a more engineering viewpoint, putting an electric fan over a boat will significantly move it, doesn't it?
Comment: This woild be quite easy to test with a scale model. I agree it will work but it will be extremely ineficient, so much so that it probably is not worth the effort
Comment: The reference to an airboat really isn't relevant, because the fan is blowing backwards and there is no sail.  But @Owensteam posted an answer below that shows a proper experiment by Mythbusters that shows it working.
Comment: @Mark  I was not explicit there.  My point was that you can certainly drive an airstream from an on-boat source and get the boat to move.  All the sail does is change the direction of force.
Answer: I've done a lot of sailing (won a couple national championships) and the answer is yes. But you wouldn't want the fan blowing forward from the stern.  Instead you would want it blowing towards the sails from the side. Even though the fan would want to pull the boat sideways, sailboats are equipped with centerboards or keels which function like a wing underwater. Since water is much more dense then air, you'll have a hell of a time pulling the boat sideways.  Instead, the air will wrap around the sail thus creating a high pressure zone on the "windward" side and a low pressure zone on the "leeward" side and propelling the boat forwards. You'll also get a bit of drive from "deflecting" air backwards (equal and opposite reaction).
Answer: Blowing you push the boat backwards.  If the sail caught all your wind then it would net to zero.
You would be better off just drop the sail.  Face forward to suck and face rear to blow.
Or leave the sail up and rock the boat side to side.  On a small boat you can move slow but definitely move.
Comment: yes, the rocking thing is a good point.
Answer: Bit of lateral (ha!) thinking - set the sail to an angle, stand to one side of it and blow across the beam of the boat - perpendicular to the axis and intended direction of motion.
That way, the reaction of the person blowing is perpendicular to the desired direction of travel and is counteracted by the keel. Forward motion is provided by the forward component of the reaction of the sail deflecting a crosswind, with the keel counteracting other component forces.
Answer: Well After some googling I found this!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKXMTzMQWjo
It does indeed work possibly because the sail deflects the wind backward meaning that you go forward with conservation of momentum.
I thought it wouldn't work but hadn't figured that the wind would bounce off the sail
Answer: From my interpretation of the OP the airboats fan is round the wrong way. It's blowing the air out the back which moves the boat forward. You would need to turn the fan around 180 degrees and attach a sail in the middle of the boat for it to be an accurate representation of the OP. Or make a frame and attach a sail behind the air boat.
If you did turn the fan around and attach a sail in the middle from a basic force point of view the air would hit the fan and be transferred down the mast, back through the hull and back up through the fans frame which would cancel itself out.
But when the sails introduced the force dynamics are changed as pointed out by Phil. And if the sail does create twice the reaction force then the boat would move forward.
Answer: If you would be in the water or standing ashore (and would have VERY powerful lungs) then yes.
But like Solar Mike said: "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction". So the ship won't move if you would be standing on the ship itself.
Comment: You could also just stand on the boat and blow air 'overboard' using your extremely powerful lungs - like a jet engine :)
Comment: typo s/shop/ship/?
Comment: This is just plain wrong.
Comment: It would move backwards as the sail would not catch all the air.
Comment: -1. You haven't considered what the sail can produce in terms of reaction force. It you blow forwards, it can reverse the flow, and produce twice the reaction force.


Difference between 者{もの} and 人{ひと}

Question: I never heard 者{もの} alone, just for work profession.

Both means person right?
Is 者{もの} old-fashioned, when used alone?

Example:
[...] 居る者
Answer: Not necessarily old-fashioned, but standalone 者 does sound stiff.
It's commonly found in military settings or in legal documents, where everything is written in an objective manner:

違反した者は、6か月以下の懲役もしくは100万円以下の罰金に処す。

It's also used as a humble expression of 人 in formal business settings. Using 人 is clearly inappropriate in the following sentences:

はじめまして、私は田中という者です。
申しわけありません、会社の者は、ただいま全員外出しております。
担当の者を呼んで参ります。

Although it may sound quite insolent, a person with a higher status can directly addresses their people like this:

反論がある者はいるか?

Moreover, standalone 者 is frequently found in serious written articles in general, as an synonym of 人, as long as honorific expressions are not necessary. I did Wikipedia search and found that "する者は" is used more frequently than "する人は" there.

~だと考える者もいれば、そう考えない者もいる。
生きている者にはすべて、等しく1日に24時間が与えられている。
ナレーションをする者のことを、ナレーターと呼ぶ。
[*]今日は、大阪市に住んでいる者にインタビューをします。: This is rude. Use 大阪市に住んでいる人に (neutral) or 大阪市に住んでいる方に (politer)
Answer: 者(もの) and 人(ひと) means "person" and as you said 者 isn't uesd alone, it is used as a part of a word like ばか者. And a part of a word "者" is often read as しゃ like 消費者、被害者、旅行者、出席者 etc.
Answer: Yes, both mean "person", and there is no difference in meaning; only in nuance.
者 {もの} is used in formal contexts, whereas 人 {ひと} is much more casual. For example, you would most likely use "あの人" in conversation, yet on certificates (including mine for the JLPT), "人" is replaced by "者" in all contexts (except kanji compounds). 〜もの referring to people is sometimes used as a suffix for a handful of words in everyday language, but when used on its own, it's reserved exclusively for formal context, where its meaning maps 1:1 with "人".
It's not really that 者 is old-fashioned -- it's still used today in formal situations -- but it is uncommon (though it's always been that 人 has been the more common and casual in comparison).

Difference between 者{もの} and 人{ひと}


Use GRASS through R

Question: I want to use GRASS GIS 7 through R 3.1.3 in kubuntu operational system. Could someone help me connect GRASS with R, and use GRASS commands through R (not the other way round!).
Comment: Show us what you tried, and where you got stuck, and then we can try and get you past that. Have you installed `rgrass7`?
Comment: look at [GRASS wiki: R statistics](http://grasswiki.osgeo.org/wiki/R_statistics)
Comment: Yes, I have looked into it. Still, I would need some clearer instructions!
Comment: yo can also use [spgrass6](http://cran.r-project.org/web/packages/spgrass6/index.html)
Comment: Note that *the other way round* you refer to is just starting R in GRASS GIS (i.e. from command line inside GRASS session). This will save you from calling `initGRASS()` but the rest should be the same (you are still using `execGRASS()` and others to call GRASS modules etc.
Answer: Here is a quick worked example of setting the GRASS environment, reading an on-disk raster, calculating a focal mean (using r.neighbors) and reading the results back into R. Hopefully this will get you started.
<code>if (!require(rgrass7)) stop("rgrass7 PACKAGE MISSING")

setwd("D:/TMP") # Working directory

# Set on-disk raster variable
rname <- paste(getwd(), "elev.img", sep="/")

# Set GRASS environment and database location
loc <- initGRASS("C:/Program Files (x86)/GRASS GIS 7.0.0",
       home=getwd(), gisDbase="GRASS_TEMP", override=TRUE )

# Import raster to GRASS and set region
execGRASS("r.in.gdal", flags="o", parameters=list(input=rname, output="tmprast"))
execGRASS("g.region", parameters=list(raster="tmprast") )

# Calculate 9x9 focal mean
execGRASS("r.neighbors", flags="overwrite", parameters=list(input="tmprast", output="xxfm",
          method="average", size=as.integer(9)) )

r <- readRAST("xxfm")
  spplot(r)
</code>
Comment: When you end (`stop()`) after unsuccessful `require()`, `library()` might be more appropriate.
Comment: works like a charm. if anybody searches for linux path to grass executable: ->  /usr/lib/grass72 if you have 7.2 installed. otherwise check with grass<> --config path. Note that you need grass-dev package installed as well.
Answer: Thank you very much for your responses!
Eventually, is very very easy to work with GRASS GIS through R.
After you have created in GRASS the location and mapset in which you wish to work, you can type in the GRASS shell: "rstudio &"
"&" Helps for working simultaneously in both GRASS GIS and R. Otherwise, the GRASS shell would switch to R.
And that is for Linux!

Use GRASS through R


Mixing prose and verse

Question: I'm writing a novel and one of my characters speaks in poetic verse, should I format her dialogue differently to my characters who communicate in the traditional manner?
Comment: Yes. This character is an oracle of sorts and her prophecies are given in poetic verse. Should these verses be indented differently? Should they be aligned centrally?
Comment: So you have a character who speaks in poems and the rest speak normally, right?
Comment: the Percy Jackson series does this well with the oracle, you might want to check that out.
Comment: Will do. Thanks for your help.
Answer: What type of effect are you looking for with the story?
If you're looking for a realistic impression, then I think different formatting would risk breaking the suspension of disbelief. Doing italics or something like that could easily distract the reader.
I also think different formatting could interfere with showing the oracle speaking.
Think of it like this; If it was a movie instead of a book and all actors behaved like movie actors, but the oracle acted as if on a theater stage instead. (Articulate, speak too loud, use too large gestures...) It would look unnatural... (I've seen it when nationally acclaimed stage actors try in front of the camera and fail miserably...)
Here's an example of how italics could ruin a text when used for words from other languages. And if you don't want to watch the movie, the gist is this: you italicize words when you want to put emphasis on them, like in any other situation (or in this case, language).
I think the formatting would cause problems like the ones above.
I am assuming the oracle speaks in poetic verse either because that's how the powers they get their prophesies from speak, or because that's the only way they can connect to their prophetic vision.
It would still come out of a mouth just like for every other character and if you saw it, it would be a person speaking, perhaps (but not necessarily) in a cadence and with some odd word order, but probably not a dramatic stance or all that. You might not even catch on to the poetic verse at first. (An effect you can give the reader by not formatting it differently).
But what if the oracle does in fact act as if on a theater stage? You show that with action and description. Not formatting of the text.
If, on the other hand, you want to do different formatting as an artistic/abstract statement, and perhaps are doing it with other parts of the text as well, then you could use everything from italics, to actually formatting the text as a full poem... If you can convince the reader this isn't just a text, but that something else is going on as well, they'd accept that...
Answer: I don't see a problem in differentiating one character's dialogue.
However, if you do decide to differentiate the dialogue, you must first make sure that the one character speaking poetry, will speak poetry 100% of the time.
If that is true, you can italicize their dialogue to differentiate it from the regular dialogue.
But, if they speak poetry sometimes then this won't work. It would be too confusing to the reader if you switch between italicizing and non-italicized for one character's dialogue.
Answer: You should be fine. The only thing I'd recommend is putting a comma or semi-colon or something after each 'line' of poetry so the readers can tell how it would be formatted if it weren't dialogue. Other than that, formatting regularly should be fine.

Mixing prose and verse


PCB enclosure tolerances

Question: I can imagine problems of PCBs not fitting into their enclosures or misaligned screw/hole pairs. Are these type of problems common, especially with the dirt cheap enclosures?
I am planning to use one that has a "0.8 mm tolerance". It does not specify where exactly this tolerance comes in though.
Comment: It is a risk to use such an enclosure with so unclear and vague definition "0.8 mm tolerance".
Answer: Just leave generous clearances and you should be fine. Even with well designed and made boxes (eg. Hammond) it's not unusual to allow a couple mm overall clearance (1mm all around). Eg. (from above datasheet- maximum recommended PCB size)

Maybe you want to allow 1.5mm rather than 1mm if it looks a bit rough. Shrinkage (typically a couple of percent in linear dimensions, first-order compensated for in the mold design) in injection-molded parts is affected by resin choice and processing parameters so it's more likely to vary if the manufacturer is swapping resin types after the mold is designed or is pushing for high production rates.
Keep in mind that there are always draft angles in molded parts (not always shown on drawings) so the inside will be smaller at the bottom (top of the mold core) than at the top. Otherwise the part would not come out of the mold easily (or at all).
Similarly, allow generous hole sizes for mounting holes-  use at least the "loose fit" diameter in mechanical engineering sources\$^1\$. As well as linear shrinkage, bosses can bend a bit (the part is a bit soft coming out of the mold) if it is not handled perfectly.
\$^1\$You can find that information online- look for "tap drill" tables, but the real bible, in North America anyway, is Machinery's Handbook.
Comment: This is gold! Your best answer in all stackexchange :D
Answer: If you have the tolerance stack you can usually design things to work with it (for example by adjusting the size of the mounting holes in the board).
0.8mm is massive for a typical project box sized enclosure however, you might want to find a better vendor.
Comment: Probably, but what is the tolerance of your PCB house when it comes to cutting out the boards? This is what I mean by a tolerance stack, the things add up sometimes, sometimes they don't add, sometimes you get weird things that need a little maths... And sometimes you decide that a few percent of units where things just don't work is acceptable and you get into monte-carlo methods to model the statistics.
Comment: I don't think I have a tolerance stack, just that particular tolerance value. Referring to the PCB fitting in the case / bumping into obstacles, would I be fine with a 1mm clearance around all the PCB edges for this enclosure ?
Answer: I have also the same problem, I bought several enclosures from OOTDTY AliExpress, like below (they have them in different sizes).
What I found out is that M3 (self tapping) screws are too big for the holes to put the PCB in (the 18 holes in the bottom). M2 are too small (with tape around them they fit, but only works for metal screws, not plastic screws or PCB spacers), so probably M2.5 is the correct fit.
The holes do not fit with generic 4x6, 5x7 etc PCB sizes. However, I bought a small multitool and just drill extra holes in the PCB to fit them in the enclosure. Note that the PCBs I used are wired myself so I know where the wires are and where components are. You can use any unused hole (or preferably unused connection pads at the sides) for drilling holes.
Comment: "However, I bought a small multitool and just drill extra holes in the PCB to fit them in the enclosure" -- this works fine so long as your PCB has unused board real estate that can be safely drilled, and there is no power and/or ground plane running through the area to be drilled. Imagine the results if you drilled through an area that had a power **and** ground plane, and the screw contacted both!
Comment: @DokterJ True, so far my 'PCBs' I wired them myself, so I know exactly where are wires and components. I normally use the sides to add extra holes since I do not use the 'connection pads' at the end (I prefer either pin headers or terminal blocks).

PCB enclosure tolerances


Can I suspend lights within my property boundaries, above my wall heights on my roof deck?

Question: I have a condo with a roof deck (super awesome). The deck is very large, but is right in between two other decks (we share the same dividing walls) of two adjacent condos. The walls are not particularly high; I can look over onto both neighboring decks by simply standing up. I would like to erect wooden poles (fastened by cement into large potted planters) completely within the bounds of own deck to string up lights overhead. During the inspection, my realtor's assistant  made a passing comment that something like that may be tricky (in the am-I-allowed-to-do-it sense) as the light from my deck would thus be shining onto the other decks. I double checked the condo documents and no mention of such a restriction is present; it seems ok... but is it ok? I don't know what other provisions/laws/codes I should be checking.
Comment: In the age of LED lighting, you are able to throw light exactly where you want to.  So there's no reason to throw it anywhere else.
Comment: @Harper On the other hand, the neighbors might appreciate some "free" lighting.
Comment: @manassehkatz oth they may not - we had a street lamp outside our bedroom window - no shading was possible on the lamp but **very** goid curtains worked...
Answer: IANACO  (I am not a condo owner)
This seems like something that won't be in the rules because no one thought it important.  Probably no rule about using your deck for landing starship shuttles either.  Same idea.
That said.  Simple courtesy requires that you not disturb the other owners. So...
A:  Wire it up with a 3 way switch with a switch on each neighbor's fence.  This would allow them to turn it off if they have a stargazing party and you forgot to turn the lights off.
B:  Get/Make lamp shades that reflect the light that would otherwise go onto your neighbours place.  Boundary lights have a triangle (actually a parabola shape) that is white on  your side, some innocuous colour on your neighbors side that reflects light back onto your land.  Lights inside the boundary wear a cone to direct the light in a cone that doesn't go over the fence.
Depending on how fractious your condo association is, you may want to ask first.  Sketch out what you propose to do and ask your two neighbours if this is a problem.
As a neighbor I would usually be more concerned about noise than about light.
Answer: Check with your Condo Association Board. They probably have a committee that reviews modifications to the individual units. I wanted to install flood lights in the back, the board approved it but the neighbors in back of me had to sign an "ok" form.


Making pita more chewy/ rubbery

Question: I make 100% whole wheat pita bread often. I use whole wheat flour, yeast, salt water and a touch of honey to feed the yeast. I would like my pita to be more chewy and rubbery. I know those are not attributes people usually want but I prefer it. I can find thousands of articles on how to make things light and fluffy but not more chewy. I would appreciate any pointers you could give me. I have tried kneading with a dough hook for long periods of time which helps but I would like it to be chewier without having to add gluten. Could adding milk, yogurt, olive oil help? Are there any techniques like kneading after the initial rise etc. help? Thanks in advance, Pat.
Answer: The thing that makes bread chewy is gluten.  The easiest way to make chewier bread would probably be to use flour with a higher gluten content. You've said you don't want to "add gluten" so I'll assume that option is not on the table. For the same reason, I'll assume that replacing some of the whole wheat flour with white flour (which has a higher gluten content) is not an option.
So then, how do we get the most gluten formation out of your whole wheat dough?
Do not add shortening (fats and oils - or as you put it, milk, yogurt and olive oil). That will have the opposite effect. Shortening inhibits the formation of long gluten strands and will make your dough more cake-like (smaller, tighter crumb).
As you noticed, more kneading creates longer gluten chains.  Usually we're advised not to over-knead, because it makes the dough though. If you want tough dough, knead until you're blue in the face.  With this proviso:
Whole wheat flour contains sharp, hard pieces of the germ and bran. These sharp edged bits can break or "slash" your gluten strands (just like if you added a sharp pebble to the dough). To counter act this effect, you can try to soften the pieces of germ and bran using the autolyse method.
This technique has additional benefits and can or should be used when using white flour, as well.  Note the first bullet, which is especially applicable here:

using the autolyse method affects dough development in many positive ways:

The flour fully hydrates. This is particularly useful when working with whole-grain flour because the bran softens as it hydrates, reducing its negative effect on gluten development.
Gluten bonds begin developing with no effort on the part of the baker, and kneading time is consequently reduced.
Carotenoid pigments remain intact, leading to better color, aroma, and flavor.
Fermentation proceeds at a slower pace, allowing for full flavor development and better keeping quality.
The dough becomes more extensible (stretchy), which allows it to expand easily. This leads to easier shaping, greater loaf volume, a more open crumb structure, and cuts that open more fully.

https://www.kingarthurflour.com/blog/2017/09/29/using-the-autolyse-method
You should read that entire article if you're interested in developing your bread baking technique, but the very short version is: mix the flour and water and let rest for 20-60 minutes, then add the rest of the ingredients and kneed.
Another thing you can try to increase the toughness of the bread would be to skip the resting phases between shaping the breads.  Typically, when we make pitas, we do a bulk fermentation, then split the dough and roll it into balls, then let the balls rest before finally shaping them into the flat rounds. This rest period relaxes the gluten and makes the dough less tough. Skipping this step may result in a tougher pita. It will also make the pita harder to shape.
Comment: What a good answer! I don't disagree with any of it, I have a suggestion to leave a small amount of the water and all of the salt out during autolyse. Salt inhibits yeast, leaving it out leads to much more gluten development. After autolyse you put the salt (dissolved in the remaining water) in and mix.
Comment: I think you have a shuffle error - did you mean "replacing some of the white flour with whole wheat flour (which has more gluten)" in the first paragraph?
Comment: @rumtscho, I'm missing something here.  The poster said they use 100% whole wheat flour. There's no white flour to replace.
Comment: @Juhasz Oh, I was going by the sentence only, didn't even realize OP was using whole flour. Whole wheat flour has more gluten than white flour, so the statement doesn't make sense for me, that's why I assumed it was a switching thing.

Making pita more chewy/ rubbery


Predefined city/country list vs manual entry for address table

Question: I'm trying to design a database for my POS application and have stumbled when trying to create an address table. I'm confused whether to have city and country tables with predefined values and link the pk to the address table (city_code/country_code) OR just have city and country columns as string and ask user to enter manually. I tend to go with having city and country list, but i see that many other application does not use this approach and let user enter them manually. Can someone enlighten me?
Comment: The question is too broad. Unless you give more details about your requirements it's going to be hard to answer it. It totally depends on your needs.
Answer: For countries you can go for list of predefined values, they are changed very rarely.
For list of cities (and especially streets and houses) you better allow both. Most of the time users should be able to pick from existing (guaranteed to be valid) values, but in some border cases free input is required. Real life examples:

Person is still registered at house which (with the whole street) was deleted from gis data since they were demolished ten years ago.
Person has city/street name in a document written with a typo and you need data in the system to be a precise match.
Your gis data is not accurate enough to have names of all villages in small province of some country in middle Asia.
You've been given a contract to install equipment at some street which just has changed its name. However you can't enter the contract since gis data has not been updated yet.
Comment: I know that address change a lot. But city names and country names dont change a lot, dont they?
Comment: Of course you are right, they are very stable. Everything is simple most of the time. But *they are not stable all the time*, caveats of border cases are still chasing us like 2 and 3 in my answer. Of course all these problems might not be important enough for you - we don't know, you have to decide it. But the very fact of their existence should be counted.
Answer: Never allow the user to fill in these address fields absolutely freely. You will end with states Alobama, alabama, Alabama, Allabama, Albama and many others that you cannot even imagine, instead of the standard value. And it will need constantly a large amount of administrator work.
For some fields that change very rarely, or not at all, as continents or countries or inner states, use predefined fields. As for cities, allow users to fill in the values, but while filling, show them all values with the same start, for choosing.
Even that way has problems - if somebody will write Derlin instead of Berlin, it will be identified and proposed correctly. So, you should think about some administrator work - somebody should check new streets and towns from time to time, find for them the correct equivalent and the app should remember this connection for the future and use all of them for the propositions of the possible names.
And this is not the end yet. Imagine that somebody from nowaday Simferopol/Crimea wants to fill in his address. You put his area and town in the Ukraina list, but he knows that he lives in Russia and he will have to write it by hand and the application will start to look for Simferopol in Russia and will create it there as a new town. And you will evidence the same town as two separate places! Again, it needs some piece of administrator UI. It should be possible to join in one not only names of the cities, but the combination of city name + country.
Answer: If you are targeting a single country and have a good, flexible address verification API, you may be able to get away with a significant amount of prescriptive validation.  The fact that you are thinking about using a country code implies that you are considering multi-country and multi-country address validation is a difficult problem to do well.
I remember a talk Rasmus Lerdorf gave at a Linux conference.  Rasmus was born in Greenland, and Greenland is not listed as a country in a lot of lists (apparently) so he is of the habit of hacking the webpage, inserting the code for Greenland, selecting it and seeing if he can crash the application with valid data :).
I too have been a victim of poorly written address validation so I'd suggest using a prescriptive address verified page by default; but allow the users to do free-text entry of addresses on a separate page if their address doesn't "fit".  That way the majority of your data is "good" and validated but you don't lose sales from customers with PO Boxes or in new subdivisions that haven't made it into the dataset yet or countries that you haven't bought address verification data for yet.


Vibration for LG Keyboard

Question: I don't know about the other models, but my LG Optimus L3 2 doesn't vibrate while touching the virtual keyboard. That's really bad, because it's annoying to hear a sound to make sure the key was pressed. Since I couldn't find any option to activate that, I tried another keyboard available in market and it worked, but I still don't have vibration while pressing the return key. Is there a way to activate vibration for all keys in the device?
Comment: I was somehow happy my LG does not vibrate on "keypresses" -- but allright, it should be configurable as tastes differ. Have you checked the settings for "haptic feedback", and played with what you've found?
Comment: I can't find such options. Where are they in your phone?
Comment: I didn't check in my O4X (felt no need yet), but remember having seem them. I admit it might have been in CyanogenMod on one of my other devices. // Just checked: Yes, I have a corresponding setting in *Settings->Sound*, rawly translating to "sound when typing*. Maybe you check that section?
Answer: Have you tried the Go Keyboard?
I use Go Keyboard on Samsung Galaxy S4. It vibrates when I press the return key. It's customizable via Sound and vibrate > Key press vibrate. You might also want to check Advanced Setting > Smiley Setting; this lets you merge the Smiley and the return key function.

Vibration for LG Keyboard


Can't you DoS attack a hidden service by constantly shutting down its introduction points?

Question: I know that it's infeasible for you to find the ip of a hidden service nor find the clients that connect to said service. However, as far as I understand, the ips of a hidden service's introduction points are public knowledge. Can't the feds, who want to shut down illegal services like The Silkroad, just target its introduction points to prevent people from connecting to it? They can just do that constantly every time The Silkroad change their introduction points and they will never be able to service new clients that haven't rendezvous with them yet.
Answer: The introductions of hidden services are actually just random Tor relays chosen anonymously. DDOSing them won't work because the hidden service can choose other Tor relays to act as introduction points and you would only be removing relays from the Tor network.
The only actual way to shutdown illegal hidden services is to shutdown the acutal server of the website. Otherwise, the Feds would have easily shutdown every illegal hidden service.
Answer: This is one of the massive control vectors, i.e. if you're controlling/operating like 50%+ of Tor network nodes - then yes, it can be an issue. Otherwise - no, it's properly distributed through the network. And this question, actually, shows us the importance of running your own node for everybody: a Raspberry Pi or another SBC will not consume much power even being online a month non-stop, but will speed up your privacy and the network itself.


Automatic "Confirm Transaction" Metamask

Question: I have a webapp and when I send a transaction I need to approve this tx by clicking "Accept" in Metamask. I would like to implement an automatic non-clickable confirmation. Is it possible? How?
(Security is not important in this case)
Answer: Hi I am not quite sure I understand the question but I will try my best to answer it...
If you are talking about the confirmation prompt that you get when transacting using Metamask then there is no way of getting rid of it as that is how Metamask is coded. That has to do with the Metamask application and not your dapp.
If you still want to implement an automatic non-clickable response for users who send ether/tokens via other ways that do not involve Metamask... then you'll have to make use of events. Events will automatically detect when a user sends funds and can give them the response you'll have coded. *The response will also appear to those who sent funds via Metamask.
UPDATE :
You cannot change metamask's behavior using code on a Dapp. Metamask is a third party in this case that has nothing to do with your dapp.
So...  Is it possible to avoid this clickable operation with events? No.
Comment: My question is related to the part of events. For example, in [pet-shop-tutorial](https://truffleframework.com/tutorials/pet-shop), when someone wants to adopt a pet, it is necessary to confirm that you want to send this tx through Metamask to finish the operation. Is it possible to avoid this clickable operation with events? @YulePale
Comment: @sapiensapiens I have updated the answer as per your comment
Comment: I think a dirty work-around, is avoid using Metamask and implement your own wallet, which can create new wallet address or import users' already-owned wallets with encrypted json/private key.
Comment: Is there any example of that? thanks @Richard Fu
Comment: Not sure if it's a good example or not, but we are also developing an [Unity wallet](https://github.com/Block42World/block42-wallet-unity) where Metamask doesn't supports, so we built one using [Nethereum](https://github.com/Nethereum/Nethereum) library, which provides all needed functions such as create wallet, send transaction, calling smart contract etc. I guess there's also a lot [examples](https://github.com/Nethereum/Nethereum.UI.Wallet.Sample) in the language you preferred.


Ford F-700 starter motor

Question: When starting my '79  Ford F700 bucket truck, the starter motor continues to crank after the engine starts and the key is released. Is the starter bad, the ignition switch faulty, or the solenoid switch bad?
Comment: Usually the problem is located in the starter/solenoid, not the ignition switch.
Answer: As Paulster2 says, it's more likely to be the solenoid. To check this, use a multimeter to watch the voltage on the solenoid connector (the smaller of the two on the starter) as it's cranked - it should go to 12v(ish) when the key is turned, and back to 0v when it's released.
They're usually fairly integral to the starter, so it's normally a case of replacing the whole starter, but you might be able to get your existing one refurbished - a lot of places dealing with starters for older vehicles will do so on an exchange basis, so they will send you a refurbished one, then you send them your old one, which they then refurbish for the next person. (I suspect you know that, but other readers might not...)
Comment: It might just be that the return spring on the solenoid is broke or non-functioning.
Answer: I have had a few things cause the same problem. There is a relay for the starter on the fender well. Some auto parts stores refer to it as a solenoid. When it gets warn sometimes it will drag a little and not disengage all the way. If that happens you will have electrical problems like gauges in dash acting weird, sometimes you will have problems with charging.  Also if the bushings in your starter is shot it will cause it to bind not letting it kick back. If the problem is in your ignition you will be able to tell because when you start the vehicle and then leave of the ignition it should come back a little. If it doesn't then it is sticking. I have had all the things I mentioned above cause the same problem. I would start with the cheapest first if you don't want to take it to a garage.

Ford F-700 starter motor


De-awkwardize middle G trill on recorder

Question: The third movement of Bach's second Brandenburg Concerto calls for multiple trills on the middle G in F. The fingering is highly awkward because it is right between two registers and I am looking for an easier method to obtain the trill. I am aware of playing G with the left digits 2, 3, and 4 and the right digits 2, 3, 4, and 5, but trilling with my right fifth and fourth digits is just about as difficult as well. Is there any alternate method for the trill?
Comment: Can you provide an example in the score?
Comment: [Here is the recorder part](http://petrucci.mus.auth.gr/imglnks/usimg/d/dd/IMSLP37609-PMLP82078-Bach-BWV1047.Flute.pdf). It is on page 6, the beginning of the third movement.
Answer: Kenneth Wollitz in his The Recorder Book suggests using the alternative G fingering you describe, and trilling on your right third finger.  I just tried it, and it seems pretty reasonable.
Comment: That would produce a trill from G# to A, no?
Comment: No, that's not what happened when I tried it, I got G to A.
Comment: Okay, tried it again, how that I don't have to worry about waking the neighbors, and I'm getting better luck with G= 1 2 3, 4 5 6 /7 (half holing 7) and trilling 6, while keeping 7 half holed.  Trilling on a forth finger that way is not entirely non-awkward, but at least you're not moving your whole hand for the trill.
Comment: Whoops, your original fingering actually works fine. I was thinking you were saying trilling with the right ring finger (4). Trilling the middle finger (3) works great.


What does the opacity of a molecular transition mean?

Question: In particular, what does it mean when a line (e.g, emission line in stellar wind) is optically thick or thin. I know what an optically think/thick medium is, but how does this concept compare to optically thick/thin line.
Answer:
I know what an optically think/thick medium is...

Okay so this isn't much more complicated. A medium or material can be optically dense or opaque at one wavelength, but fairly transparent at a different wavelength.
If you look at the dark plastic window on a remote control for a TV or other appliance, you can't see through it. It's optically dense at visible wavelengths, but it's mostly transparent between say 850 and 1050 nm wavelengths, so that the infrared LED light can still shine through it and communicate with the receiver.
So at each wavelength the medium can have a different opacity. For this window, it's roughly a step function in the visible and near-IR, high opacity in the visible and low opacity in the IR.
You can extend the same idea to one spectral line or many of them. Perhaps a medium can absorb at or near the center of the spectral line where there is a strong transition, but more weakly as you move away from the center wavelength, and then perhaps almost not at all farther away.
I the video testing Hoya UV & IR Cut Filter at first you can see the purple spot; that's actually IR light that can still be seen by the video camera. The dark plastic has high opacity in the visible and low in the IR. Then they introduce an IR filter that is the opposite, high opacity in the IR and low in the visible (you can see right through it) but it still blocks the IR.
See also the answers to What is the purpose of the IR-diode Cover on Remote Controls?
Answer: The optical depth $\tau$ is defined as a wavelength dependent quantity, right?
We have in general
$$\tau(\lambda,z) = \int_0^z dz' \rho(z') \kappa(z', \lambda).$$
The energy transition of your line will correspond to some wavelength $\lambda_t$, then to decide if a line is optically thin or thick, you simply look at the quantiy $\tau(\lambda_t,z)$. This quantity will be large at the line center and smaller at the line wings, because the natural line profile is proportional to $\kappa(\lambda)$  for a single line.


Are my corn leaves too yellow?

Question: I recently planted corn in my garden and I'm noticing that their leaves are a yellow-green.  I did add a nitrogen fertilizer and it seemed to help a bit.  However, when driving by farms I notice that the corn leaves in a farmer's field are a deep green.  Are my leaves too yellow? (Picture below)
Comment: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chlorophyll_d_structure.svg I am no corn expert, but chlorophyll (what makes plants green) needs N and Mg to be formed. You've already added N, could be Mg deficiency. But again, I have no idea how young corn should look.
Comment: It's been above 20c but really rainy. The temperature has also been a roller coaster. Yesterday was 20c but the day before was around 30.
Answer: You've planted around 20 corn plants or more in 16 square feet?  You need to thin your corn plants to a more reasonable number. Have you fertilized?  Your corn leaves are way too yellow.
Get some basic balanced fertilizer; Osmocote 14-14-14 extended release.  Easy, safe and really saves time. A balanced fertilizer with the three main ingredients have a percentage number each.  Corn?  If you've given it an application of high percentage formulation of nitrogen then now you have to use NPK formulation where the N is a lower percentage of P and K!  If you want corn instead of leaves.
Pull all but 6 or 8 corn plants.  What are you using and what have you used to give your plants the proper chemicals to do photosynthesis? Have to have fertilizer!  Not compost but fertilizer.  btw what soil did you put in your raised beds?
Comment: Interesting. I've read that in square foot gardening the corn can be that close. That's the method I was following anyway. I'm using an 18-10-10 at the moment. The soil is compost, dirt, and extra manure.
Comment: @MichaelStachowsky I don't know what you read but the scientific studies I read state that clusters of 3-9 plants perform better than traditional 1' spacing, given the same total of plants not that you can plant dozens of plants in an enclosed space. That "raised" bed is basically a pot to a shallow rooted plant. They don't look all that yellow to me, but it's either overcrowding or underfertilizing due to rain.

Are my corn leaves too yellow?


If a winglet disconnected from an airplane mid-flight, what would be the consequences?

Question: I've always knew that the winglets on an aircraft provide lift. But what would happen if a winglet disconnected from one wing while a winglet was on another wing?
Answer: this actually happened to the Rutan around-the-world flight, where one winglet was shaved off against the runway pavement during the takeoff roll. the pilot then stabbed the controls to overstress the remaining winglet, causing it to break off during climbout. the purpose of the winglet is to increase the apparent span of the wing by blocking airflow out from under the wing and over & into the airflow over the top of the wing, so an aircraft with one winglet on and one off would perform as if the wingspans on either side of the fuselage were several feet different.
Comment: The pilot was Burt Rutan's brother Dick, and he usually accompanied the mention of winglets with expletives. No wonder he broke them off on purpose.
Answer: One a modern airliner, the only conceivable danger would be if it hit any of the tail surfaces on its way down.
A 747-400 is despatchable with one removed but not two (I don't know why). There is also a fuel penalty factor but its nothing major.
Comment: It is strange that an asymmetric condition is allowed, but not one with both missing. Do you happen to have a source for that?
Comment: Winglets aren't in the MEL but the CDL. The A330 has the same one missing winglet rule. I think the reason is because you need to analyze and [flight test](https://www.flightglobal.com/news/articles/boeing-asks-can-737-max-fly-with-missing-winglet-424856/) the configuration, and having two trucks crash on both sides of the plane isn't a feasible oops.
Comment: I cannot find winglet in MMEL.


Canadian Expedia refund possibility for missed hotel

Question: I booked a hotel with Expedia for the day before I was supposed to be in town. When I arrived, obviously there was no reservation under my name, and I had to book a new room with the hotel itself. Is there any possibility of actually getting a refund or partial credit with Expedia Canada for the night I missed? The hotel had the restriction of no refunds.
Comment: I can't see any reason to expect a refund from Expedia or from the hotel. FWIW - if you fail to take a flight and lose the fare, they are obliged to refund the taxes paid. You may have to yell at them rather loudly to convince them to remember their legal obligation.
Comment: I had a friend travelling in a group of 3. They turned up exactly 1 year before their flight date. Oops.
Comment: I don't think Expedia would refund you for a mistake *you* made.
Answer: Likely No.
You made the mistake, therefore the burden of responsibility and expense is yours.  Expedia paid your money to the hotel, the hotel held the room empty for you, so your payment is forfeit.
The only one who could perhaps offer a refund would be the hotel itself, but hotels usually stick to their guns on this no show issue.
Answer: I've made this mistake in the past as well, especially when city-hopping in Argentina.  Essentially, no, it's your mistake, it's embarrassing, but it happens.
From Expedia's point of view: You've booked, and paid, and nothing went wrong with their service. Why should they refund?
From hotel's point of view: You booked, didn't show. They have no reason to refund either, and it'll be in their policy too.
One hostel I was at I'd booked the wrong night, and they kindly just moved the booking in the computer when I arrived and we worked out what'd happened, but that was totally out of the employee's kindness - there's no obligation on them to do it whatsoever.
If it helps, don't feel bad, USA Today lists this action as one of the top 10 hotel booking mistakes travellers make, including the author.
Answer: I took a chance and called Expedia anyway. The agent called the hotel while having me on the phone, and luckily I was able to receive most of my first night's fees back less $3. Definitely a much more favourable conclusion than what I expected.


Is it bad if gasket maker gets into bolt holes?

Question: My timing chain cover does not use a solid gasket, instead it relies on gasket maker, which is caulk-like paste.  The cover is fastened by something around 20 bolts.  I am curious how bad can it be if the gasket maker gets in some of the holes, impeding the bolt grip/torque.
Comment: What's stopping you from cleaning the hole? I would try pouring some gasket remover in it.http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05021-Technician-Gasket-Remover/dp/B000M8IE6W
Comment: it's hard to get it if it gets into the threads
Comment: @rana - You do understand using the CRC product would be counter-productive? It would remove *all* of the gasket maker, not just what's in the holes. There would be no way for you to get around it. It would be a *Wash; Rinse; Repeat* cycle with no end (until you ran out of product).
Answer: It is not going to bother it too badly. It can cause issues if you get too much into a hole. As was already stated, this can cause breakage of the block. It's called hydraulicing. I don't think you could get enough torque on these smaller bolts you are talking about to cause you any issues as the bolt would break off before it would get that tight. I have never worried about there being a small amount in this type of application. It's mainly a problem with larger bolts such as head bolts which can stand a lot more torque. Also, it doesn't usually happen with gasket maker, but if you have too much oil in the hole it can surely happen (with the larger bolts).
Basically, what happens is you have filled in the bolt hole with the liquid. When you put the bolt into the hole and force it down, the liquid does not compress, so the pressure has to go somewhere. It will find any avenue it can, so can possibly cause problems.
In some instances you want to have sealant in the holes. Holes in the block which enter into the water jacket need to be sealed. The only way you can do this is with sealant (place a small amount on the threads so it encompasses the entire bolt). This does not affect the torque of the bolt to any great extent, so there is no issue there either.
Comment: @amphibient - It's definitely not going to be an issue if you get a small amount in the holes, just don't over do it. There is almost *no way* for you *not* to get any in the holes ... it happens and not much you can do about it.
Comment: all the bolts i'm dealing with on my cover are 17 ft/lbs torque ...  so fairly low
Answer: If you get lots in and put the bolts in, it is possible that you could crack the head/block around the bolts. A very small amount shouldn't do any harm, but could possibly affect the torque setting. Best not get any in, though.


Symptoms of failed speed sensor code on Nissan Maxima?

Question: Yesterday morning the check engine light turned on in my 1997 Nissan Maxima, 127K miles, manual transmission.  The mechanic pulled a speed sensor code but it's testing within range now.  I was planning to go on a 2-3 hour drive tomorrow.  If the sensor fails, what would the typical symptoms be?
Comment: This is what I've gathered so far.  Since the car is a manual transmission the speed sensor won't be used for shifting and the speedometer uses a cable, so it should still work too.  I think it will drive the same and the only symptom will be not passing smog.  Here's to hoping I'm right.
Comment: I think you should re-word the question to focus on asking what symptoms and fixes are available.  Asking if the car is OK to drive is off topic.
Comment: @NoCarrier Good idea, question updated.
Comment: Update: The speed sensor remains unfixed with no symptoms.  The check engine light is still on and could be masking other issues, but it's a risk I'm willing to take.
Answer: I had a failing speed sensor on a truck and the main symptom was the ABS system kicking on between 3-4 mph when I would come to a stop.  It was consistent until I fixed it.  However, it did not throw a check engine light.


Frying pan width - from base or rim?

Question: I have a recipe that calls for a frying pan about 20cm across - should I measure from the base, or the top rim?
Answer: Manufacrurers measure the rim, so I guess the recipe calls for a pan which is 20 cm across the rim.
It may seem counterintuitive that the recipe specifies such a small pan (that's less than 8 inch for you Americans). But it can have good reasons.
Most recipes aren't dependent on pan size (much). But if you make a small quantity of some sauces, you want it to be thick enough in the pan to heat evenly, instead of a thin smearing of stuff on the bottom of the pan which will overheat quickly. So if you suspect that this is the case, it makes sense to actually use a small pan.
For many other recipes, overcrowding the pan is not too good. If you say what you are trying to make, we could give you an indication whether the size is important in your case.
Comment: Thanks - for info, the recipe was for Pear Tart Tatin. I don't think it was too crucial. I've just always wondered about this and decided to nip out and ask half way through cooking it.
Comment: OK, I assumed frying. Size is more important for baking, because 1) you want some preliminary info on the size, 2) A thick cake doesn't bake as well as a thin one, and 3) in a tarte tatin, the amount of pears is calculated for a certain pan size.
Comment: Btw, it makes great sense why the measure for the rim - makes it easier to have common lid sizes regardless of the form of the bottom of the pan.

Frying pan width - from base or rim?


Importing Electrum backup into Bitpay?

Question: Extremely new to Bitcoin but I'm looking to spend some of my balance on Amazon gift cards but I can't figure out why I can't import an electrum wallet backup into bitpay using file or phrase.  Tells me the file can't be decrypted or that the phrase is invalid.  Is this possible or is there a way around it?  TIA
Answer: Unfortunately, this is not possible, unless Bitpay allows you to import individual private keys, which, AFAIK, they don't.
Almost no wallets use the same wallet file format. They are generally incompatible from wallet to wallet and there is no standard (nor should there be). A wallet file is only good for the same software the made it.
Electrum's seed phrase is also incompatible with all other wallets as it uses a different algorithm to generate and decode the phrase. They do this since the standard way (BIP 39) is much less secure as it was primarily designed for hardware wallets.
Lastly, why would you move away from using Electrum? Electrum is, IMO, far better than any other SPV wallet out there, and especially better than the ones created by services like BitPay which rely on BitPay operating special servers in order for it to function.
Comment: Agree, electrum is great. Online wallets are vulnerable to being cracked; using a personal wallet gives you full control of security and you own and control the critical private keys.

Importing Electrum backup into Bitpay?


How can I repair the end of joists sitting in brick pockets?

Question: I have 2x8 joists over an 8 foot span that were eaten by termites on one end. I need to repair all of the joists in a small room. The building is double wythe structural brick that is approximately 100 years old. My current plan is to cut the affected ends of the joists off, attach a ledger board to the brick face using sleeve anchors, then use joist hangers to put in new ends and sister the old joists and new joists together. Does this sound like a good plan? How deep do the sleeve anchors need to be in? How much should the old and new joist overlap and what is the best way to secure them together?
Comment: I'm not sure I'd trust sleeve anchors in brick. Concrete, maybe. Where I've seen face-mount joists in modern construction a Simpson Strong-Tie system was used to embed subhangers in the poured walls, and special overlay hangers were then used with fasteners going through the joists and into the subhangers. There was no fastener or anchor drilled into the concrete.
Comment: Like so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVntvXMS7zk
Answer: Your approach does not seem safe or sane. Since this is a structural problem, if I were you, I would consult a structural engineer and not make a DIY job out of it. Consequences for doing this sort of job incorrectly include the collapse of the building and potential death of yourself or anyone else in it or in the vicinity.
The general approach for this sort of thing is to fasten a new load-bearing wall or column to the joist and chop off the rotten part at the brick face with a chainsaw. Needless to say, the details are heavily dependent on site conditions.
Answer: Presuming this is the area from How two install hardwood floors in a long room with a subfloor that has a plane change in the middle? It really should be rot from being unprotected against the moist brick, which looks the same as termite damage...unless you found dead or live termites of course. Future instances can be avoided with just a Zip-lock type freezer bag over the beam's end.
But, No on the anchor idea, just not strong nor uniform enough. And No, on the iLikeDirt idea, it separates the floor from the structure. If you can't just shim them & leave sleeping dogs lie. Then, get a carpenter to get their thoughts on threat level of leaving them & what's proper &/or legal in your area for a repair.
Now, if you're lucky see if you have slots instead of pockets, this you can work with to get new beams in. Meaning, can you see the full pocket & a subfloor gap or does the subfloor seem to go into the brick?
If no, then one very successful (& proper & legal around me) method is to put or leave full depth scabs in the pockets.
And, those get end-lagged into & through your new ledger, which is actually a whole new floor frame.
Just to kind of give you another view of the practice of framing in a new floor structure with old &/or new lumber. It looks something like this with the scabs being on the backside of the ledger or the light wood (it's a bad & wrong picture, but the best basic visual I could find).
You would supplement the lags with upside down joist hangers on top of the scabs, since lags don't have the full shear resistance of a 2x8. Again, just for your visual understanding if the carpenter starts explaining what he'd do & it happens to sound like this. Or, see what he thinks of this, him falling down laughing would be explanation enough.
The benefits of the above method is that nothing changes, the pockets keep doing what they've done, the structure remains braced, no damage is done to any brick in trying to coax new beams in that may be too long & outwardly stress the structure & the new ledgers & joists can be custom heighted. But, hopefully the carpenter's just fine with leaving them in.
Answer: TL;DR: Install new joists without removing the old ones, fastened the exact same way the old ones are : No ledger board and no sleeve anchors. Pocketed into the brick.
You make new pockets for sisters, and you keep the sisters as large as possible while still being able to squeeze them in there. If you have a center beam to support the other side, insert the sister in sideways and then 'flip it up' with a 5 pound sledge and a block of wood. Then tap it into the pocket from the other end.
If the other end is going to be joist-hung, cut a slight angle* on it, so that once one end is inserted into the pocket, the other will slide right into place.
Then use 1\4" structural wood screws to attach the sisters to the existing joists and then mortar what's left of the pocket (with the appropriate material), having removed as much lose debris as possible.

*An angle so slight, you might get away with just easing the top edge by whacking it with a hammer. Then pound that sucker home, once it's in there at all. Just make sure it would fit in that space in the first place, and that the angle (of insertion) is what's giving you trouble. You might also need to do something similar for the 'flip it up' end, which is easily shimmed once in place, so no worries.
P.S. - Fix your roof, do some tuck pointing and check your gutters. You either have water infiltration or drainage issues (you need a better sump). If this is below grade, you might want to look at having your foundation sealed (on the outside! $$$).


Why does a propeller suck in air from the front?

Question: A rotating but fixed propeller sucks in air from the front. What is the cause for this acceleration of air particles? Since propeller blades act like rotating wings, my best guess is that the blades create a lower pressure zone in front of them which causes higher atmospheric pressure air to flow into this lower pressure zone. This creates the effect if the propeller would "suck in" air from the front.
Comment: I bet your question comes from the standard wrong explanation of how wings work, the explanation that fails to account for downwash. Let me direct you to [*my favorite site*](http://www.av8n.com/how/htm/airfoils.html) for explaining how wings work.
Comment: @jameslarge: Yes of course there's a pressure difference. The wrong explanation is the one that says the air parcels reunite at the trailing edge - the "equal transit time" fallacy.
Answer: A propeller imparts momentum on the air - when the blades hit the air molecules, it gives them momentum towards the back (high pressure) side; this creates a net velocity towards the rear of the propeller. Normally air molecules in the plane of the propeller have equal probability of moving forward or backwards; the propeller's action makes the situation asymmetrical. Since more air molecules move backwards, a low pressure area is created in front - and air will be pushed towards this region be the atmospheric pressure "far away".
Comment: @RussellYang, It doesn't matter how the propeller works---at least, not for the purpose of answering _this_ question.  The point is, when the propeller moves a mass of air, that's going to leave a zone of lower pressure in the place that the air formerly occupied, and the only place where air can come from to fill that void is in front of the the propeller.
Comment: I'd like to improve on this answer and mention that the slants act to push air back, rather than suck air from the front. Pushing of the air backward creates a lower pressure zone at the front as the air has to come from somewhere, to equalise air comes in from the front and so on. Essentially one would want to achieve equilibrium
Comment: @jameslarge agreed
Comment: @RussellYang - I have changed my first sentence a little bit to incorporate what you suggested. Do you like it?
Answer: when you look at an airplane propeller, you will se that parts of the propeller blades are slanted. These slants, when rotating, push the air back, creating a low pressure zone, sucking more pressure in, while at the same time pushing more air back.
Comment: As the OP says, a propellor is simply a rotating wing, with a similiar airfoil section. If you look at a helicoper blade close up, only when it's stopped :), you will see the similarity between the blade and a wing. You can imagine how it works in two different ways, giving the same result. 1. By changing the momentum of the air in front of the propellor in a "backwards" direction and in effect pulling the aircraft forward.   2. You can also look it as a low/high pressure zone effect as in the OP,  see [link] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wing


Mysql backup strategies?

Question: We have a innodb mysql database so we are lost with lots of different mysql backup strategies. Some talk about mysqldump some talk about third part tools. Some of the tables we also plan to run partitions. Any good tool to help for this task?
Answer: Today there's hardly any discussion (as I see it, of course), with regard to InnoDB backup. Xtrabackup by Percona is a widespread, feature rich & stable solution which offers:

Hot backups (no locks placed on database)
Incremental backups (done by backing up pages as opposed to statements)
I/O throttling (allowing to limit backup I/O as as to alleviate the load from the machine/disks)
Backup is consistent at time of end of backup (as opposed to time when backup started).

Xtrabackup derives from InnoDB Hot Backup, nowadays called MySQL Enterprise Backup. There's additional wrapping scripts which allow for the extra featureset.
Smaller databases may benefit from the common mysqldump. It really depends on your database size and traffic. mysqldump, event with --single-transaction, places a high load on the DB server, and makes for accumulating locks. It is not as hot as you might think (see this post of mine regarding backup temperatures).
I use LVM snapshots quite a lot. The great advantage is that these are DB ignorant, so no DB-related bugs affect this type of backup. The great disadvantage is an overly increased I/O. Check out mylvmbackup.
If you have ZFS or another file system which supports snapshots, that may be a great solution. If you have a storage device which supports snapshots, that's great too. All snapshots are DB ignorant, though you often want to script this a-la mylvmbackup so as to catch the point in time (DB-wise) for which backup is done.
Comment: so are you suggesting for me to explore xtracbackup is it? I guess mysqldump is quite slow is it? So how about LVM is even better for huge data is it?
Comment: Yes yes and yes. You may also check out [MyDumper](http://www.mydumper.org/) which is a parallel application of `mysqldump`.
Comment: Between mydumper and xtrabackup which will you suggest for me? So I keep taking the snapshots manually or let a backup engine to run on its own?
Comment: Xtrabackup makes for a binary backup. I suggest you start with this. Next you can try snapshots. If you want logical backup try out MyDumper. I have no knowledge about your filesystem, operating system, disks etc. so I can't possibly recommend you which snapshot to take and how...
Comment: I would like to know the different in binary backup and logical.Is it that binary will be those binary log? I am using centos and fully using innodb and set innodb_file_per_table
Comment: Big subject. Binary backup backs up the files. Logical backup generates SQL statements, like `mysqldump`, which makes for a slow load time.
Answer: I am sort of an old school DBA, so hear me out anyway...
My Past Articles in the DBA StackExchange on Backups for MySQL

Apr 17, 2011 : How can I optimize a mysqldump of a large database?
Jun 26, 2011 : How to enable all the possible backup options of MySQL
Oct 01, 2011 : Quick MySQL Backup
May 16, 2012 : How to Create Snapshot Backups in MySQL
May 22, 2012 : MySQL Server Backup (includes how to do so with MySQL for Windows)
Jul 24, 2012 : How to copy a MySQL database which is a mixture of InnoDB and MyISAM to the same server?

In my earlier posts, I recommend doing mysqldumps in parallel as well as one single file. I even suggest trying out XtraBackup. I do not want to limit you to mysqldump. Some databases are so large that LVM Snapshots are the only possible solution.
Answer: Important things to think about when picking a backup strategy:

How long is an acceptable amount of downtime while having to recover data from a backup
Is recovery going to always mean All the database? or is there a use case for a more frequent backup of specific, more critical tables?
What acceptable load on the server making the backup is accepted? meaning, are you gonna have a replica dedicated to backups? or are you tight on money as an org and will have to run this against your only slave (I HOPE you don't say there only one and only DB server :) )
Is paying for a backup solution an option? or free is more preferred?

This is how I would tackle this in order of priorities. and that is then end of my objective answer :)
Now, for the subjective part based on my experience:)
For a large portion of DB setups these days, using mysqldump as the ONLY backup solution is not scalable. It is slow, creates HUGE files, importing mysqldumps takes forever, and it is tricky making mysqldump give you a true 'point in time' recovery with data consistent across the board. I use mysqldump to backup v small tables (less than 200MB each) that are also super critical and more prone to end user foul ups (like user table or user_profile). The common use case when I go back to these is when someone asks "When was this user changed? and what was the value of setting X for them" so it is not really a data is lost rather than a data is messed up situation.
For true 'world on fire' backups, I use xtrabackup by Percona. It is free, open sourced, in very active development, and very easy to automate.
Comment: @technie we have already setup a slave now is in place ready and is working accordingly.So based on that what is your advice backup from the slave is it? Should we install xtrabackup by Percona there.
Comment: i insteall percona xtrabackup on all my machines. You need it to prepare a snapshot made by xtrabackup anyway. I usually do a daily full snapshot with Xtrabackup and an hourly incremental snapshot.You could look into http://code.google.com/p/xtrabackup-manager/ for how to automate this
Comment: @Techigurl it say it is still in beta version according to the wiki guide page. So is it ok to use then?
Comment: yes xtrabackup manager is in beta so use it at your own risk. In our shop we went for writing a cron based manager script internally for better or worse.
Comment: @technigurl so any other option for newbies like me to do have the backups done on regular basis?
Comment: start scripting? use your favorite scripting language (bash, python, perl) and use the xtrabackup docs to call and capture err and output streams.
Comment: TechnieGurl we are very new to this scripting techniques.Any good template for us to follow and improvise later? So xtrabackup by itself can it be used without any fear of trouble or bugs?
Answer: When discussing the MySQL Server backup strategy, it should be noted that this topic is not limited to the choice of the tool that will be used to backup your databases. What command should be used for backups is well discussed in other answers.
You also need to consider how to transfer the backups to the storage, of course, if you are not going to store the backups in the same place as the MySQL Server.
In my opinion, the most important point during the MySQL Server backup strategy creation is a notification system. Make sure that you'll receive the notifications in case of any issues, both when creating a backup and when transferring it to storage.
In the simplest case, this can be done by a shell script. In more complex cases, and if you are too lazy to write scripts, then you can take a look at the third-party tools.
Sometimes I'm considering moving my architecture to the cloud, it is more expensive but much more reliable. (Ultimately, what could be more important than my sound sleep :-) )

Mysql backup strategies?