There are two things to do in Alicante. One
can walk under the palms of the Alameda which
runs along the water's edge and be stared at by
those who sit in the cafes, or one can sit in the
cafes and stare at those who walk under the
palms of the Alameda which runs along the
water's edge. Only, if you are a Spanish
woman, you will probably walk up and down
with your grandmother, while your husband or
your father sits at the cafes. I have sometimes
felt very lonely at those little tables; but they
have seemed preferable to the cool stare of the
don as he comfortably sips his liqueur. Neither

[52]




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THE MAN AN A HABIT

the sefiora nor the senorita objects to this stare ; if
they are conscious of it they are unresentful, and
they must be mightily strong to stand an eve-
ning's senseless parading.
The Spanish peasant is the most polished
gentleman in the world, but the provincial
dandy is not a pleasant person. He does not
limit himself to admiring one (which might be
endured) ; he laughs at one. Since the foreign
city hat is different from the Spanish town hat,
the Spanish town hat laughs and points its
finger; even a lady hat will do this. It never
occurs to the Spanish provincial headgear that
it is very funny, too. A Spaniard is-.uhder it, and
therefore it must be right; yet, if the foreign
city hat laughed, the resentmeht would be deep.
