the loveliest valley ramparted by the "most glorious mountains in the world, stands the most picturesque city reared by hu man hands. It is almost a pity that the traveller should ever have to descend into the town itself ; for when once he gets there, the illusion vanishes. His imagined Damas cus turns into a mean and shabby little country town built upon a swamp. ! One long and straggling street, two or 'three sniall cross streets, and some decent sub urbs, with substantial residences, make up the whole concern. ' in the 1 ; principal thoroughfare there are perhaps'half-a jdozen respectable shops ; the rest are wretched shanties. One or two drapers' shops ; one or two gunmakers', with a huge wooden gun ' projecting as a sign'; several tobacconists' ; a couple of chem ists' ; these with the post-office, the news agents, and the hotels, make up the trade ,and commerce of the community. Nothing could well be more shabby, squalid, and commonplace.. Yet this is a'famous city, over the pictures'queness and architectural splendour of whioh English travellers have written themselves and their readers into sensational raptures. 1 For' it is the ,City of the Salt Lakef the chief town of Utah, the 'residence and the capital of 'the prophet Brigham Young, whose house, surmounted by its gilded beehive, ' is oiie of the objects which attract the eye and excite 'the cariosity of the' strange* on his first arrival. f ■ •' , ' " •"" •' \ ', Disappointment — arid 'what Blanche !Amory calls "disillusion" — fell heavily on the mind and the spirits of aii English traveller, Mr. Leslie Sandon, who had lately arrived in the city. Having ' had his head filled with Hepworth Dixon, he was' cruelly disconcerted by 'the utterly commonplace aspect, the dirt snd dismal ness of everything. It seemed a camp of the joyless. Pigs nozzled among tile' heaps of vegetable refuse that lay on the footpaths. • There was no sewage but such as was' given' by runnels of water that coursed down the side of each' 'street— rivers rather tlislii gutters, spanned at in tervals by little "bridges of plank. 