Here I found a British officer encamped on his way
back to India after ibex hunting. My camp was pitched
upon the plain, and I had just finished my tea, for which
I was most grateful, after that grilling march down that
treeless valley, and was putting things straight when
down came a great gale of wind. I had to hang on with
all my might to one of my tent-poles to prevent the tent
coming down, while my servant hanunered hard at the
tent-pegs. While this was going on I heard shouts^ and
saw the major's property fast disappearing out of his
tent, sailing down the plain before the blast. So I ran
to the rescue, and was just in time to save his tent from
collapsing entirely, for one of his tent-poles had already
fallen. The gale soon blew itself out, and all was peace
and quiet once more, except for the visits of the prowling
pariah dogs from the city of Dras.
Next day we were up betimes, and I marched on ahead

202



A Trip to Ladalcn

and arrived at the Commissioner's camp at Kargil in time
for a late breakfast. His party consisted of Mr and Mrs
Beech (Beech stood six feet six inches, a giant of a man) ;
Mrs Darrah, whose husband, a great sportsman, was
awaiting her in Leh ; Jack Phelps and P. H. Church, who
were on a long expedition to the district of the Pang
Gong Lake, a salt lake loo miles in length, and the
Chang Chenmo, after "ovis ammon" and "ovis poll."
I received a hearty welcome and a real good breakfast,
which I much enjoyed after my forced march to catch up
this party.
