PICTURE OF THE TOWN AND ITS INHABITANTS. Ears is as yet free from European innova tions ; you see in it a true Asiatic town in all its picturesque squalor. The houses are for the most part built like those in the villages,— bturows in the uneven hill-sides ; but in the best quarters you find good houses, built like those of Erzeroom, and containingampleaccommodation for thesuite of a great man. In all these houses, however, the windows are extremely small, and plastered over "with greased paper during the winter, the luxury of glass not having reached Kars. The bazaar is just, what you meet with in any other town in Asia Minor ; each shop is opened by raising a large board Avhich covers the whole apart ment, in which squats the owner of a very paltry stock of goods ;of which the price accords with the quality. It is scarcely necessary to describe minutely this Asiatic style of shop ;it is the same from the Danube to the Tigris, and enough of this old-fashioned kind remain in Constantinople for the English tourist to sketch. The lover of the picturesque, however, and the student of ethnology may enjoy himself in the market-place, for Kars is richer by far than Erzeroom in variety of costumes and physiognomies. Loitering about amidst bales of Georgian goods lying before thekhan doors you have a number of Karapapaka —a race of frontier Turks, who have adopted a costume very similar to that of the Cir cassians, and who in time of war are mistrusted alike by Russians and Turks, both of which governments they live under. Groups of these men, armed with that long broad dagger the kania, and a short rifle, may always be seen in the streets of Kars. Their head, unlike others of their race, is covered by a round and shaggy fur cap ; the rest of their costume is not unlike that of the Persians. But ths finest subjects for the painter are the Kurds. I fancy I see before me at this moment a group of these fellows riding over the bridge of Kars,—the rays of the setting sun are reflected from or absorbed by every variety of colour. The iirst horseman who crosses that mediamil structure is the chief, who weai-s an enormous turban composed of handkerchiefs of yellow, black, green, and white. 