The climatic conditions prevailing during our
passage through the Changchenmo Valley would be
completely altered six weeks later; snow, mist and
biting winds giving place to flowers, luxuriant grass
and blazing sunshine.
Kyam, our next halting-place, is situated on an
extensive plateau, 100 feet or so above the river.
Numerous streams so irrigate the valley that excellent
grazing is produced during the summer months. On
our arrival, however, it was found that the whole
of the feeding-grounds were still covered with snow,
and little grass was to be seen. Hot springs bubbled
3



34 THE GREAT PLATEAU

forth from the mountain a little to the south of our
camping-ground ; these were impregnated with sulphur
and soda and discharged a considerable amount of
water into the river — ^the temperature of the springs
varied greatly, the hottest registering ISS"" F. The
heat produced appeared to have but little effect on
the surrounding snow, which lay deep right up to the
margins of the springs. We decided to halt a day
at Kyam to enable the hired transport, of which the
greater part was still on the road, to overtake us.
The winter had been exceptionally severe and long,
and as the Ladakis make but little provision for the
wants of their animals, they were thin and weak, and
only equal to light loads and short marches.
On the first day of our stay at this place we
experienced the fiill benefit of the west wind; the
tents strained under the howling blast and yakdans
and rocks had to be placed on the pegs to prevent
them from being torn out of the ground, and with all
this raging hurricane not a cloud was to be seen in
the sky.
