The  latter  is  a  charming  residence  in  summer,
and  is  only  five  and  a  half  miles  by  the  Smyrna
and  Aidin  Eailway,  which  has  a  short  branch  of
a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  village  from  Paradise
station.  Smyrna  enjoys  the  distinction  of  being
the  only  place  in  Turkey,  with  the  exception  of
Stamboul,  containing  the  termini  of  two  railways,


CYPRUS   TO    CONSTANTINOPLE.  169

one  to  Cassaba  and  the  other  to  Aidin.  Near
the  station  of  Magnesie,  on  the  former  lino,  two
and  a  half  hours'  journey,  there  is  a  remarkable
statue  of  Niobe,  supposed  to  be  the  work  of
Proteus,  son  of  Tantalus,  and  of  which  Pausanius
and  Strabo  speak.  The  ruins  of  Ej^hesus,  too,
are  now  particularly  well  worth  a  visit,  in  conse-
quence of  the  excavations  that  have  been  carried
on  by  Dr.  Wood  upon  the  site  of  the  great
Temple  of  Diana.  The  distance  by  the  Smyrna
^and  Aidin  Eailway  to  Ayasoulouk  is  forty-eight
miles ;  time,  two  hours  fifty  minutes ;  horses  can
there  be  hired  for  Ephesus,  and  the  return  journey
to  Smyrna  made  the  same  day.  Special  trains
may  be  had  on  moderate  terms  at  short  notice,
and  parties  of  twelve  or  more  can  obtain  return
tickets  at  the  rate  of  a  single  fare  by  giving  one
day's  notice  to  the  station-master  at  Smyrna.
The  society  of  Smyrna  is  very  agreeable,  and
the  principal  nationalities  have  each  their  own
club,  at  which  balls  are  frequently  given;  in
fact,  Smyrna  has  the  character  of  being  the
most  hospitable  city  in  the  -Levant.  There  is
an  excellent  theatre,  and  also  several  caf(^s  at
which  entertainments  are  occasionally  produced,
and  where,  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  the  re-
freshing sea-breeze  may  be  enjoyed  with  a  cup


170      EGYPT,    CYPRUS,    AND   ASIATIC   TURKEY.
