" My dear Johx Manley, — ^Yesterday I went into the church
of St Curio (Carlo Jlorwmaco, you know), and wiw tlio Tope, a kind-
looking, fat-licadcd old man. There wore some 00 Cardinals (in full
toggery), and lots of Bishops, Archbishops, and Senators in the
church. Eight men toted the old Pope round in the great chair,
while he held up his right hand to bless the people. Mass was said
hy some high functionary, and the Pope sat in a great chair, where
many of the dignitaries came up to kiss his hand — he holding it un-
der his robe — so it was only the old clothes they kissed. I think that
would not quite content a youthful lover. The Pope rode in a splendid
state conch, drawn by six horses (I had the honour of talking with
his coachman), followed by one or two other empty state coaches, to
give additional dignity to his Holiness. Cardinals and others had
elcgjint carriages, several to one person sometimes — with tliree foot-
men to each. Antonelli*s coach is a quite plain one. But the sig-
nificant part of the thing is this : there were 200 French soldiers in
the street, and a battalion of Italian horse; and besides, in the
church the Pope's Swiss Guard and about 200 Italian soldiers — all
fully armed, with bayonets fixed. This was to make it safe for * the



136 LIFB OF THEODOBB PABEEB.
