In summer white wine is often served
at dejeuner and drank with seltzer wa
ter, with which it makes a verr re
freshing beverage, perhaps only too
stimulating to the appetite. Coffee is
hardly ever omitted after dejeuner, even
in the most economical families it is
generally excellent, though not invari
ably. In houses where care is taken
about coffee, it is roasted in very small
quantities at a time ana very moder
ately. The burnt, black coffee of the
caret is only ht for peasants at a fair
the true connoisseur despises it and
takes the greatest precautions to se
cure the unspoiled aroma. It is very
probable that there may be some natu
ral connection between the wine and
the coffee, the wine seems to call for
the coffee and perhaps physiologists
may know the reason. 1 be wine drunk
varies from half a bottle to a bottle
each meal for each man : ladies drink
less, and seldom go beyond the half
bottle, in hotels a bottle is the retra-
lar allowance. Men often drink their
wine pure, but ladies never do, except
a little at the end of the repast. 1 he
quantity of wine drunk in France
sometimes appears excessive to modern
r-ngusnmen. though it would not nave
astonished the contemporaries of She
ridan and Pitt, while Americans ra
ther suspect von of a tendency to in
temperance if you drink anything bat
iced water during meals. I have never
perceived that a Frenchman was less
solier after his bottle of ria ordinaire.
