Summarize this article in one sentence.
Glazed clay pots are a little trickier to drill into than their unglazed counterparts, but it can usually be done using glass and tile drill bits.  These drill bits have a spear point head, which allows then to cut into hard, brittle surfaces with less pressure. If you were to use a standard masonry drill bit, you would need to apply too much pressure to break through the hard glaze, and the pot would likely crack apart. The drill bit size should match the diameter of the desired hole. If you want to create a standard drainage hole in a medium sized pot, a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) drill bit should work well enough. It isn't strictly necessary, but you might also want to consider using multiple sizes to further reduce the risk of causing breaks in the clay. Start with a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) drill bit and gradually work your way up through larger sizes until you reach the final desired size. Place one to four strips of painter's tape or masking tape directly over the spot you plan to drill a hole into.  The use of tape is especially helpful with glazed clay surfaces, which tend to be somewhat slippery. This tape gives the surface just enough traction to help prevent the drill bit from slipping as you start drilling. One layer of tape should be enough in most cases, but multiple layers of tape will provide greater traction and are less likely to peel away during the process. If you do decide to work with several drill bit sizes, you should start with the 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) bit.  On the other hand, if you decide to use only one drill bit, simply attach that drill bit to your drill now. A cordless drill with variable speed is strongly recommended. This will offer you the most control while drilling, and the fact that the drill is cordless makes it safer to use around water than a corded drill. Moisten the surface you'll be drilling through with water. Try to keep that surface consistently wet throughout the entire drilling procedure.  If you're drilling into a recessed bottom, you can pour a small amount of water over the indented portion of the pot and work with that. When you're drilling into a flat surface, it helps to have a continual dribble of water pouring over it from a garden hose or faucet. The water acts as a lubricant, allowing the drill bit to work through the clay with greater ease and less pressure. It also acts as a cooling agent, which can prevent the drill from overheating. Clay pots with very thin glaze may not need any water, but applying water to the surface as you drill still won't hurt. Position the drill bit over the spot you wish to drill through and turn on the drill. Use very light pressure and work through the surface at a slow, even pace.  The pressure you apply should be just enough to keep the drill steady. You should let the drill do the actual work of drilling through the pot instead of trying to force it through faster. This is especially important once you are nearly through to the other side of the pot, where the clay will be weaker. Working too quickly will probably cause the clay to break. When drilling through a clay surface thicker than 1/4 inch (6.35 mm), consider pausing in the middle of the drilling process and brushing away any chips or other debris. This can help prevent the drill bit and drill from overheating. Once the drill bit breaks through the surface of the pot, you can pause your drilling and peel the tape away. If you don't wish to pause, though, you should at least peel the tape away after you finish drilling this first small hole. Once you've drilled a small hole into the pot, switch the drill bit for one that is 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) larger. Using this drill bit, drill through the hole you just created.  Center this drill bit over the center of the hole as you drill through it. This is a fairly safe way to slowly enlarge the hole. As before, drill slowly and apply little to no pressure. Work through the remainder of your drill bits in this manner, upgrading by about 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) each time, until you reach the final desired size. Wipe away any dust and debris using a damp rag, then inspect the area around the hole. Make sure that there are no deep cracks, chips, or other signs of damage. This step completes the process.
Use glass and tile drill bits. Place tape over the pot. Choose a small drill bit. Keep the pot wet. Work slowly. Increase the drill bit size as needed. Clean things up.
Sammanfatta den här artikeln i en mening. Glaserade lerkrukor är lite knepigare att borra in i än sina oglaserade motsvarigheter, men det går oftast att göra med hjälp av glas- och kakelborrbitar. Dessa borrbitar har ett spjutspetshuvud, som gör att man sedan kan skära i hårda, spröda ytor med mindre tryck. Om du skulle använda en vanlig murad borr, skulle du behöva använda för mycket tryck för att bryta igenom den hårda glasyren, och grytan skulle sannolikt spricka isär. Storleken på borrbiten ska matcha diametern på det önskade hålet. Om du vill skapa ett vanligt dräneringshål i en medelstor kruka, bör en 1/2 tums (1,25 cm) borrbit fungera tillräckligt bra. Det är inte strikt nödvändigt, men du kanske också vill överväga att använda flera storlekar för att ytterligare minska risken för att orsaka brott i leran. Börja med en 1/8 tum (3,175 mm) borrbit och arbeta dig gradvis upp genom större storlekar tills du når den slutliga önskade storleken. Placera en till fyra band av målartejp eller maskeringstejp direkt över den plats du planerar att borra ett hål i. Användningen av tejp är särskilt användbar med glaserade lerytor, som tenderar att vara något hal. Denna tejp ger ytan lagom mycket dragkraft för att förhindra att borrbiten glider när du börjar borra. Ett lager tejp bör vara tillräckligt i de flesta fall, men flera lager tejp kommer att ge större dragkraft och är mindre benägna att skala bort under processen. Om du bestämmer dig för att arbeta med flera borrstorlekar, bör du börja med 1/8 tum (3,175 mm) biten. Å andra sidan, om du bestämmer dig för att bara använda en borrbit, sätt helt enkelt fast den borrbiten i din borrmaskin nu. En sladdlös borr med variabel hastighet rekommenderas starkt. Detta kommer att ge dig mest kontroll när du borrar, och det faktum att borren är sladdlös gör det säkrare att använda runt vatten än en sladdad borr. Fukta ytan du borrar igenom med vatten. Försök att hålla ytan konstant våt under hela borrningsproceduren. Om du borrar i en infälld botten, kan du hälla en liten mängd vatten över den indragna delen av grytan och arbeta med det. När du borrar in i en plan yta hjälper det till att ha en ständig dribbling av vatten som häller över den från en trädgårdsslang eller kran. Vattnet fungerar som ett smörjmedel, vilket gör att borrbiten kan arbeta genom leran med större lätthet och mindre tryck. Den fungerar även som kylmedel, vilket kan förhindra att borren överhettas. Lergrytor med mycket tunn glasyr kanske inte behöver något vatten, men att applicera vatten på ytan som du borrar fortfarande kommer inte att skada. Placera borren lite över den plats du vill borra igenom och slå på borren. Använd mycket lätt tryck och arbeta genom ytan i en långsam, jämn takt. Trycket du använder bör vara tillräckligt för att hålla borren stadig. Du bör låta borren göra själva arbetet med att borra genom krukan istället för att försöka tvinga igenom den snabbare. Detta är särskilt viktigt när du är nästan igenom till andra sidan av krukan, där leran kommer att vara svagare. Att arbeta för snabbt kommer förmodligen att få leran att gå sönder. Vid borrning genom en leryta som är tjockare än 1/4 tum (6,35 mm), överväga paus i mitten av borrprocessen och borsta bort eventuella flisor eller annat skräp. Detta kan bidra till att förhindra att borrbiten och borren överhettas. När borrbiten väl går igenom grytan kan du pausa borrningen och skala bort tejpen. Om du inte vill pausa, bör du åtminstone skala bort tejpen efter att du har borrat färdigt detta första lilla hål. När du har borrat ett litet hål i grytan, byt borrbiten för en som är 1/8 tum (3.175 mm) större. Borra genom hålet du just skapade. Centrera den här borren över mitten av hålet när du borrar igenom den. Detta är ett ganska säkert sätt att långsamt förstora hålet. Som tidigare, borra långsamt och applicera lite till inget tryck. Arbeta igenom resten av dina borrbitar på detta sätt, uppgradera med cirka 1/8 tum (3,175 mm) varje gång, tills du når den slutliga önskade storleken. Torka bort damm och skräp med hjälp av en fuktig trasa och inspektera sedan området runt hålet. Se till att det inte finns några djupa sprickor, chips eller andra tecken på skada. Detta steg avslutar processen.
Summarize this article in a sentence. Glazed clay pots are a little trickier to drill into than their unglazed counterparts, but it is usually possible to do with the help of glass and tile drill bits. These drill bits have a spearhead head, which allows you to then cut into hard, brittle surfaces with less pressure. If you were to use a standard masonry drill, you would have to use too much pressure to break through the hard glaze, and the pot would likely crack apart. The size of the drill piece should match the diameter of the desired hole. If you want to create a common drainage hole in a medium-sized pot, a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) drill bit should work well enough. It is not strictly necessary, but you may also want to consider using multiple sizes to further reduce the risk of causing breakage in the clay. Start with a 1/8 inch (3,175 mm) drill bit and work your way up gradually through larger sizes until you reach the final desired size. Place one to four bands of target tape or masking tape directly over the location you plan to drill a hole in. The use of tape is particularly useful with glazed clay surfaces, which tend to be somewhat slippery. This tape gives the surface just enough traction to prevent the bit from slipping when you start drilling. A layer of tape should be sufficient in most cases, but multiple layers of tape will provide greater traction and are less likely to peel away during the process. If you decide to work with multiple drill sizes, you should start with 1/8 inches (3,175 mm) bit. On the other hand, if you decide to use just one bit of drill, simply attach that bit of drill to your drill now. A cordless drill with variable speed is strongly recommended. This will give you the most control when drilling, and the fact that the drill is cordless makes it safer to use around water than a corded drill. Moisten the surface you drill through with water. Try to keep the surface constantly wet throughout the drilling procedure. If you drill into a recessed bottom, you can pour a small amount of water over the indented part of the pot and work on it. When drilling into a flat surface, it helps to have a constant dribble of water pouring over it from a garden hose or tap. The water acts as a lubricant, allowing the drill bit to work through the clay with greater ease and less pressure. It also acts as a coolant, which can prevent the drill from overheating. Clay pots with very thin glaze may not need any water, but applying water to the surface that you drill will still not damage. Place the drill a little over the place you want to drill through and turn on the drill. Use very light pressure and work through the surface at a slow, even pace. The pressure you use should be sufficient to keep the drill steady. You should let the drill do the actual work of drilling through the pot instead of trying to force it through faster. This is especially important when you are almost through to the other side of the pot, where the clay will be weaker. Working too quickly will probably break the mud. When drilling through a clay surface thicker than 1/4 inches (6.35 mm), consider pause in the middle of the drilling process and brush away any chips or other debris. This can help prevent overheating of the bit and drill. Once the drill bit goes through the pot, you can pause the drilling and peel off the tape. If you do not want to pause, at least peel the tape off after you have finished drilling this first small hole. Once you have drilled a small hole in the pot, change the drill bit for one 1/8 inch (3,175 mm) larger. Drill through the hole you just created. Center this drill over the center of the hole as you drill through it. This is a pretty safe way to slowly enlarge the hole. As before, drill slowly and apply a little to no pressure. Work through the rest of your drill bits this way, upgrade with about 1/8 inches (3,175 mm) each time, until you reach the final desired size. Wipe away dust and debris using a damp cloth and then inspect the area around the hole. Make sure there are no deep cracks, chips or other signs of damage. This step ends the process.
Använd glas- och kakelborrbitar. Lägg tejp över grytan. Välj en liten borrbit. Håll grytan våt. Arbeta långsamt. Öka borrbitens storlek efter behov. Städa upp.
Use glass and tile drill bits. Put tape over the pot. Pick a little bit of drill. Keep the pot wet. Work slowly. Increase the size of the drill bit as needed. Clean up.