Summarize the following:
(D)SLR stands for (Digital) Single Lens Reflex, and you need an SLR camera to take professional looking photographs. Despite improvements in phone and point-and-shoot cameras, only SLRs have the range of features and photo clarity needed to set your shots apart. They are, of course, more expensive than simpler cameras, but the jump in quality is well worth the money to take good shots.  SLRs have a viewfinder that allows you to see the exact lighting in your shot as the pictures you take. A mirror reflects the exact shot to your eye, then slides out of the way when you take your photo, capturing the exact same image you saw in the viewfinder. SLRs have interchangeable lenses that allow you to fit the right lens to the shot. Though digital zoom gets you close to the subject, it distorts the image and keeps it from professional clarity and crispness. This is because a computer inside the camera is enlarging the pixels and guessing what pixels might fill in the blanks. Telephoto lenses work like binoculars or telescopes, bringing you "closer" to the subject without sacrificing quality. Zoom lenses have "mm" numbers written on them that indicates the focal points the lens is able to produce.  The higher the number, the more you will be able to zoom in. When there is not a lot of light you need to keep the shutter open for longer. This allows you to capture more light and make sure the picture looks good. However, if the camera moves while the shutter is open then the shot will look blurry and even slight shakes will make your photo look amateur. If you have a shutter speed less than 1/125 seconds, you need a tripod.  All photographers can benefit from a tripod, as sensitive cameras will pick up slight, uncontrollable movements from your hands. Time lapse photos are when you leave the camera open for a long period of time to capture movement over time (like the path of stars through the night) or extremely low-light situations, and absolutely require tripods. ISO is represented by numbers (100, 200, 800, 1600, 2000, etc.), where lower numbers represent the need for more light. The higher the ISO, the brighter your photos will appear. However, more ISO means more grain, which looks a little like static, in the shot. Use the lowest ISO possible, preferably 100 or 200, whenever possible.  If the ISO is doubled (from 100 to 200) then the light sensitivity is doubled as well.Consider using your camera settings to stop down the light by 1 or 2 stops exposure. For most outdoor settings, an ISO of 100-200 will suffice. For most indoor settings, an ISO of 200-400 will suffice. Shutter speed is how long the camera lens is open and capturing the image. The longer it is open, the more light is let into the shot, but you will also capture any movement as blurriness. Shutter speed is measured by fractions of a second, and speeds range from 1/20 seconds to 1/1000 seconds. Bigger numbers are faster, meaning you capture less light, more quickly. This means that there is more light being allowed to reach the camera sensor for the short time that the shutter is open.  In most cases, aim for a shutter speed 1/125sec or faster, especially when shooting handheld. Every time you cut the shutter speed in half, you're letting in half as much light, because the lens has half the time to capture it. Remember this when setting your ISO, because you'll likely need more light. Faster shutter speeds eliminate blur during movement, but some creative photos look great with motion, like the blurring of a bird's wings in flight.Using your camera flash at the same time will also help to freeze the movement.  If you are using a very fast shutter consider using a very low f-number, the lowest aperture (i.e. f-number) that your lens focus length will give you. The aperture works, essentially, like your eye's pupil. A wide aperture will let in more light because the "eye" of the camera is more open. Aperture also controls depth of field, which is how much of the picture appears sharp or in-focus. Aperture is measured by f-stop, with numbers like (f/1.4, f/2.8, f/8.0, etc.) The smaller the f-stop, the more of the image will look sharp and in focus, but the less light will be let in. Wide f-stops, in contrast, can be used to keep one specific image in focus.  The larger the f-stop, the smaller the opening of the aperture. While confusing, this is because "f" stands for fraction. Thus, a larger f-stop is a smaller hole. Think of it this way: 1/8 of an inch is bigger than 1/16 of an inch, so f/8.0 is bigger than f/16.0.  Use a larger f-stop, like f/32, to keep everything in focus, like a landscape or large scene but remember when using f32 you will need to have the shutter open for longer to let in enough light and it is advisable to use a tripod for clear sharp focus. Use a small f-stop, like f/1.4 to make the foreground sharp and the background blurry, like when shooting one specific subject in a crowd. Smaller apertures (high f-stop) generally need a longer shutter speed to let enough light. ISO, aperture, and shutter speed work in tandem for proper photo exposure. Balancing these settings is crucial to getting the best shot in any conditions. While you could spend a lifetime studying different combinations, the best way to learn is to practice. Take 5-10 shots of the same subject, in the same light. Change one setting each time and note how it affects the picture. If you need to speed up the shutter speed, how can you compensate for the lack of light, for example? You could raise the ISO, lower the aperture, or a mix of both.  Don't be afraid to experiment with your settings. It takes years of practice to see a shot and intuitively know how to set ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Doubling the ISO double light sensitivity and halving the shutter speed halves the amount of light. Thus, doing both at once will result in less "motion blur" with the same amount of light in the shot.  Never overcompensate by changing just one of these three settings. Change each one a little bit to get to the right photo settings. Focal length determines how zoomed in your photos look -- the higher the number the more zoomed in the camera lens will be. Different lenses have different focal lengths, and you need to choose the right one to get a professional shot.   Wide Angle, 24-35mm: Used to capture a lot of detail without looking stretched, wide angle lenses are commonly used by photojournalists looking to catch a lot of context in the shot, but be careful that when using ultra wide lenses that you do not end up with too much possibly unwanted foreground in the shot.  Standard, 35-70mm: This lens is closest to what our eyes see, which is commonly around 45-50mm. This is a great all-around lens that functions in a wide variety of situations.   Mild Telephoto or Portrait, 70-135mm: As subjects get further away, or you want to differentiate the foreground and background, like in a portrait, telephoto lenses become a must. Portrait lenses usually start at 85mm.  Telephoto, 135-300mm. Best for far-away shots, these are used for sport or animal photography because they can focus on one element from a long distance. They will, however, flatten landscape or wide-angle shots because the struggle to create depth. This is, luckily, an easy calculation to make. If you focal length is 30mm, then 1/30 is the slowest you can make your shutter speed to avoid blur in handheld photography. Simply make the focal length the fraction in your shutter speed to find your slowest possible shutter speed. Longer focal lengths will accentuate a shaky camera, making the whole picture blurry if you have too slow a slow shutter speed.
Invest in an SLR or DSLR camera. Use zoom lenses and camera zoom instead of digital zoom. Invest in a tripod for clear shots in any light. Know that ISO represents the sensitivity to light in your camera. Set the shutter speed. Alter the aperture. Optimize your camera exposure. Choose your local length for the shot. Adjust your shutter speed to match your focal length.
Sammanfatta följande: (D)SLR står för (Digital) Single Lens Reflex, och du behöver en SLR-kamera för att ta professionella fotografier. Trots förbättringar i telefon- och punkt-och-shoot-kameror, har endast SLR:er det utbud av funktioner och foto klarhet som behövs för att ställa dina bilder isär. De är naturligtvis dyrare än enklare kameror, men hoppet i kvalitet är väl värt pengarna för att ta bra bilder. SLRs har en sökare som gör att du kan se den exakta belysningen i din bild som bilderna du tar. En spegel reflekterar det exakta skottet i ögat och glider sedan ur vägen när du tar ditt foto och fångar exakt samma bild som du såg i sökaren. SLR:er har utbytbara objektiv som gör att man kan passa rätt objektiv till skottet. Även om digital zoom får dig nära motivet, förvränger det bilden och håller den från professionell klarhet och skarphet. Detta beror på att en dator inuti kameran förstorar bildpunkterna och gissar vilka bildpunkter som kan fylla i tomrummen. Teleobjektiv fungerar som kikare eller teleskop, vilket ger dig "närmare" till motivet utan att offra kvaliteten. Zoomobjektiven har "mm" siffror skrivna på dem som anger vilka brännpunkter objektivet kan producera. Ju högre nummer, desto mer kommer du att kunna zooma in. När det inte finns mycket ljus behöver man hålla slutaren öppen längre. Detta gör att du kan fånga mer ljus och se till att bilden ser bra ut. Men om kameran rör sig medan slutaren är öppen så kommer skottet att se suddigt och även små skakningar kommer att göra ditt foto ser amatör. Om du har en slutartid som är kortare än 1/125 sekunder behöver du ett stativ. Alla fotografer kan dra nytta av ett stativ, eftersom känsliga kameror kommer att plocka upp lätta, okontrollerbara rörelser från dina händer. Tidsfördröjande bilder är när du lämnar kameran öppen under en lång tid för att fånga rörelse över tid (som stjärnornas väg genom natten) eller extremt lågljussituationer, och absolut kräver stativ. ISO representeras av tal (100, 200, 800, 1600, 2000, etc. ), där lägre tal representerar behovet av mer ljus. Ju högre ISO, desto ljusare kommer dina foton att synas. Mer ISO betyder dock mer spannmål, vilket ser lite ut som statiskt, i skottet. Använd lägsta möjliga ISO, helst 100 eller 200, om möjligt. Om ISO fördubblas (från 100 till 200) fördubblas ljuskänsligheten också.Tänk på att använda kamerans inställningar för att stoppa ljuset med 1 eller 2 stoppar exponeringen. För de flesta utomhusmiljöer räcker det med en ISO på 100-200. För de flesta inomhusmiljöer räcker det med en ISO på 200-400. Shutterhastighet är hur länge kameraobjektivet är öppet och fångar bilden. Ju längre den är öppen, desto mer ljus släpps in i skottet, men du kommer också att fånga alla rörelser som suddighet. Shutterhastigheten mäts med bråkdelar av en sekund, och hastigheterna varierar från 1/20 sekunder till 1/1 000 sekunder. Större antal är snabbare, vilket betyder att du fångar mindre ljus, snabbare. Det innebär att det är mer ljus som får nå kamerasensorn under den korta tid som slutaren är öppen. I de flesta fall, sikta på en slutartid 1/125sec eller snabbare, särskilt vid fotografering handhållen. Varje gång du skär av slutartiden på mitten släpper du in hälften så mycket ljus, eftersom objektivet har halva tiden att fånga den. Kom ihåg detta när du ställer in din ISO, eftersom du förmodligen behöver mer ljus. Snabbare slutartider eliminerar oskärpa under rörelse, men vissa kreativa bilder ser bra ut med rörelse, som suddigheten av en fågels vingar i flykten.Med hjälp av kameran blixt samtidigt kommer också att bidra till att frysa rörelsen. Om du använder en mycket snabb slutare överväga att använda en mycket låg f-nummer, den lägsta bländaren (dvs. f-nummer) som din lins fokuslängd ger dig. Bländaren fungerar, i huvudsak, som ögats elev. En bred bländare släpper in mer ljus eftersom "ögat" på kameran är mer öppet. Bländaren kontrollerar också skärpedjupet, vilket är hur mycket av bilden som verkar skarp eller i fokus. Bländare mäts med f-stopp, med tal som (f/1.4, f/2.8, f/8.0, etc.) Ju mindre f-stopp, desto mer av bilden kommer att se skarpt och i fokus, men ju mindre ljus släpps in. Breda f-stopp kan däremot användas för att hålla en specifik bild i fokus. Ju större f-stopp, desto mindre öppning av bländaren. Medan förvirrande, detta beror på att "f" står för bråk. Ett större f-stopp är alltså ett mindre hål. Tänk på det så här: 1/8 av en tum är större än 1/16 av en tum, så f/8.0 är större än f/16.0. Använd en större f-stop, som f/32, för att hålla allt i fokus, som ett landskap eller stor scen men kom ihåg när du använder f32 måste du ha slutaren öppen längre för att släppa in tillräckligt med ljus och det är tillrådligt att använda ett stativ för tydligt skarpt fokus. Använd en liten f-stop, som f/1.4 för att göra förgrunden skarp och bakgrunden suddig, som när du skjuter ett specifikt ämne i en folkmassa. Mindre bländare (hög f-stopp) behöver i allmänhet en längre slutartid för att släppa tillräckligt med ljus. ISO, bländare och slutartid fungerar i tandem för korrekt fotoexponering. Att balansera dessa inställningar är avgörande för att få det bästa skottet i alla förhållanden. Även om du kan tillbringa en livstid med att studera olika kombinationer, är det bästa sättet att lära sig att öva. Ta 5-10 skott av samma motiv, i samma ljus. Ändra en inställning varje gång och notera hur det påverkar bilden. Om du behöver snabba upp slutartiden, hur kan du till exempel kompensera för bristen på ljus? Du kan höja ISO, sänka bländaren, eller en blandning av båda. Var inte rädd för att experimentera med dina inställningar. Det krävs många års övning för att se ett skott och intuitivt kunna ställa in ISO, bländare och slutartid. Dubblering av ISO dubbel ljuskänslighet och halvering av slutartiden halverar ljusmängden. Att göra båda på en gång kommer alltså att resultera i mindre "rörelseoskärpa" med samma mängd ljus i skottet. Överkompensera aldrig genom att ändra bara en av dessa tre inställningar. Ändra var och en lite för att komma till rätt fotoinställningar. Fokallängden avgör hur zoomade dina foton ser ut -- ju högre nummer desto mer zoomad blir kameraobjektivet. Olika objektiv har olika brännvidd, och man måste välja rätt för att få en professionell bild. Wide Angle, 24-35mm: Används för att fånga en hel del detaljer utan att titta utsträckta, vidvinkelobjektiv används vanligen av fotojournalister som letar efter att fånga en hel del sammanhang i skottet, men var försiktig med att när man använder ultrabreda objektiv som man inte hamnar med för mycket möjligen oönskade förgrund i skottet. Standard, 35-70mm: Denna lins är närmast vad våra ögon ser, vilket är vanligt runt 45-50mm. Detta är en stor allround lins som fungerar i en mängd olika situationer. Mild Telephoto eller Porträtt, 70-135mm: När objekten kommer längre bort, eller du vill skilja förgrunden och bakgrunden, som i ett porträtt, telephoto linser blir ett måste. Porträttlinser brukar börja på 85mm. Telefoto, 135-300mm. Bäst för fjärran skott, dessa används för sport eller djurfotografering eftersom de kan fokusera på ett element på långt avstånd. De kommer dock att platta till landskapet eller vidvinkelskott eftersom kampen för att skapa djup. Detta är, lyckligtvis, en enkel beräkning att göra. Om du brännvidd är 30mm, då 1/30 är den långsammaste du kan göra din slutartid för att undvika oskärpa i handhållen fotografering. Gör helt enkelt brännvidden till bråket i slutartiden för att hitta din långsammaste möjliga slutartid. Längre brännvidder kommer att accentuera en skakig kamera, vilket gör hela bilden suddig om du har för långsam slutartid.
Summarize the following: (D)SLR stands for (Digital) Single Lens Reflex, and you need a SLR camera to take professional photographs. Despite improvements in phone and point-and-shoot cameras, only SLRs have the range of features and photo clarity needed to set your images apart. Of course, they are more expensive than simple cameras, but the hope of quality is well worth the money to take good pictures. SLRs have a pager that allows you to see the exact lighting in your picture as the images you take. A mirror reflects the exact shot in the eye and then slips out of the way as you take your photo and capture exactly the same picture as you saw in the viewfinder. SLRs have interchangeable lenses that allow you to fit the correct lens to the shot. Even if digital zoom gets you close to the subject, it distorts the image and keeps it from professional clarity and sharpness. This is because a computer inside the camera enlarges the pixels and guess which pixels can fill in the blanks. Telescopes act as binoculars or telescopes, giving you "closer" to the subject without sacrificing quality. The zoom lens has "mm" numbers written on those that indicate which focal points the lens can produce. The higher the number, the more you will be able to zoom in. When there's not much light, you have to keep the shutter open anymore. This allows you to capture more light and make sure the image looks good. But if the camera moves while the shutter is open, the shot will look blurry and even small tremors will make your photo look amateur. If you have a shutter speed of less than 1/125 seconds, you will need a tripod. All photographers can benefit from a stand, as sensitive cameras will pick up light, uncontrollable movements from your hands. Time-delaying images are when you leave the camera open for a long time to capture movement over time (like the stars' path through night) or extremely low light situations, and absolutely require tripods. ISO is represented by numbers (100, 200, 800, 1600, 2000, etc. ), where lower numbers represent the need for more light. The higher ISO, the brighter your photos will be. However, more ISO means more grain, which looks a little static, in the shot. Use the lowest possible ISO, preferably 100 or 200, if possible. If ISO doubles (from 100 to 200), light sensitivity will also double.Remember to use the camera settings to stop the light by 1 or 2 stops the exposure. For most outdoor environments, an ISO of 100-200 is enough. For most indoor environments, an ISO of 200-400 is enough. Shutter speed is how long the camera lens is open and captures the image. The longer it is open, the more light is released into the shot, but you will also capture all the movements as blurry. Shutter speed is measured with fractions of a second, and speeds range from 1/20 seconds to 1/1,000 seconds. Larger numbers are faster, which means you catch less light, faster. This means that more light is allowed to reach the camera sensor during the short time the shutter is open. In most cases, aim for a shutter speed 1/125sec or faster, especially when shooting hand-held. Every time you cut the shutter speed in half, you let half as much light in, because the lens has half the time to catch it. Remember this when setting your ISO, as you probably need more light. Faster shutter speeds eliminate blur during movement, but some creative images look good with movement, like the blurring of a bird's wings in flight.With the help of camera flash while also will help to freeze the movement. If you use a very fast shutter consider using a very low f number, the lowest aperture (i.e. f-number) that your lens focus length gives you. The aperture works, essentially, as the pupil of the eye. A wide aperture lets in more light because the "eye" on the camera is more open. The aperture also controls the depth of field, which is how much of the image seems sharp or in focus. Apertures are measured with f-stop, with numbers such as (f/1.4, f/2.8, f/8.0, etc.) The less f-stop, the more of the image will look sharp and in focus, but the less light will be allowed in. However, wide f stops can be used to keep a specific image in focus. The larger the f-stop, the smaller the aperture. While confusing, this is because "f" stands for trouble. A larger f-stop is thus a smaller hole. Think about it this way: 1/8 of an inch is greater than 1/16 of an inch, so f/8 is greater than f/16.0. Use a larger f-stop, like f/32, to keep everything in focus, like a landscape or a big scene but remember when using f32 you need to have the shutter open longer to let in enough light and it is advisable to use a stand for clearly sharp focus. Use a small f-stop, like f/1.4 to make the foreground sharp and background blurred, as when shooting a specific topic in a crowd. Smaller apertures (high f-stop) generally need a longer shutter speed to release enough light. ISO, aperture and shutter speed work in tandem for correct photo exposure. Balancing these settings is crucial to getting the best shot in all conditions. Although you can spend a lifetime studying different combinations, the best way to learn is to practice. Take 5-10 shots of the same motif, in the same light. Change one setting each time and note how it affects the image. For example, if you need to speed up the shutter speed, how can you compensate for the lack of light? You can raise ISO, lower the aperture, or a mixture of both. Don't be afraid to experiment with your settings. It takes many years of practice to see a shot and intuitively be able to set ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Doubled ISO double light sensitivity and half-hourly shutter speed halves light output. Doing both at once will thus result in less "movement blur" with the same amount of light in the shot. Never overcompensate by changing just one of these three settings. Change each one a little to get to the right photo settings. The focal length determines how zoomed your photos look -- the higher the number, the more zoomed the camera lens. Different lenses have different focal lengths, and you have to choose the right one to get a professional image. Wide Angle, 24-35mm: Used to capture a lot of details without looking extended, wide-angle lenses are usually used by photojournalists looking to capture a lot of contexts in the shot, but be careful that when using ultrawide lenses that one does not end up with too much possibly unwanted foreground in the shot. Standard, 35-70mm: This lens is closest to what our eyes see, which is common around 45-50mm. This is a large all-round lens that works in a variety of situations. Mild Telephoto or Portrait, 70-135mm: When the objects get further away, or you want to distinguish the foreground from the background, as in a portrait, telephoto lenses become a must. Portrait lenses usually start at 85mm. Telephoto, 135-300mm. Best for distant shots, these are used for sports or animal photography because they can focus on an element at a long distance. However, they will flatten the landscape or wide-angle shot because the struggle to create depth. Fortunately, this is a simple calculation to make. If you focal length is 30mm, then 1/30 is the slowest you can make your shutter speed to avoid blur in handheld photography. Simply make the focal length of the shutter speed fraction to find your slowest possible shutter speed. Longer focal lengths will accentuate a shaky camera, making the whole image blurred if you have too slow shutter speed.
Investera i en SLR- eller DSLR-kamera. Använd zoomobjektiv och kamerazoom istället för digital zoom. Investera i ett stativ för klara skott i alla ljus. Vet att ISO representerar ljuskänsligheten i kameran. Ställ in slutartiden. Ändra bländaren. Optimera din kameraexponering. Välj din lokala längd för skottet. Justera slutartiden för att matcha din brännvidd.
Invest in a SLR or DSLR camera. Use zoom lens and camera zoom instead of digital zoom. Invest in a stand for clear shots in all light. Know that ISO represents the sensitivity of light in the camera. Set the shutter speed. Change the aperture. Optimize your camera exposure. Choose your local length for the shot. Adjust the shutter speed to match your focal length.