Makkoto umai zeyo, this is truly delicious : the social construction of taste in the region of Kōchi, Japan
The food of Kōchi is more than mere sustenance to the inhabitants of the region as it is both a way to divide the social world and an economic asset. Based on fieldwork in this region of rural Japan, this research examines how incorporated beliefs and pragmatic considerations participate in the social construction of taste for emblematic foods in Kōchi. On one hand, this research seeks to uncover how incorporated beliefs, values that are learnt, embodied, performed and transmitted, structure taste in the region. Habitus, culture and identity are some of the tools at our disposal to analyze how standards of taste are incorporated into people’s daily lives. Literally speaking, we taste the social world through the food we eat. On the other hand, this research investigates how pragmatic considerations and immediate concerns brought on by material conditions help fashion taste in Kōchi. In one of the poorest prefectures of Japan, the urgent need for revitalization makes the cuisine of the region a valuable resource for the residents of the region. Economic opportunities, government strategic planning and the forces of capitalism fuel the creation of new dishes and the promotion of traditional flavors. Thus, embedded representations that give meaning to food and regimes of values that ascribe worth to food shape residents palates. Finally, such an analysis needs to recognize that both taste preferences (i.e. the choices we make) and taste perceptions (i.e. how we experience flavor) are closely bound together. The social construction of taste is part of an integrated system that frames culinary choices as well as the sense of taste. A comprehensive model that combines complementary facets of what constitutes taste can further contribute to a better understanding of the contextual nature of deliciousness.
Regional cuisine Japan Rural revitalization Social Construction of Taste