TECHNICAL FIELD

This invention relates to the field of cosmetics. More particularly, the invention relates to activated fats and/or activated waxes administrable by dermal application/route, said activated fats and/or activated waxes being useful in cosmetics, in particular for delaying the appearance or limiting signs of skin aging, protecting the skin and/or superficial body surfaces against all types of external aggressions, and/or promoting cell differentiation at the cutaneous level, or strengthening the barrier function of the skin and/or superficial body surfaces.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The skin is a vital organ providing multiple functions such as sensory and protective functions as well as immune, metabolic or thermoregulatory functions against multiple external aggressions (barrier function). These roles are made possible thanks to a structure in three distinct superimposed compartments: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis. The epidermis is a surface epithelium that constitutes the outer structure of the skin and ensures its protective function. This function is ensured by the cohesion of the epithelial cells and by the production of a filamentous and resistant protein, keratin. The dermis is a connective tissue made up of a fundamental substance wherein fibroblasts, collagen fibers and elastin fibers, protein fibers synthesized by fibroblasts are bathed. The collagen fibers provide a large part of the strength of the dermis, they contribute to the elasticity and especially to the tone of the skin and/or mucous membranes. Below the dermis is a layer of adipose tissue: the hypodermis.

The skin, like all other organs, is subject to aging. The factors involved in the skin aging method are varied and numerous. The phenomenon of chronological aging of the skin is accompanied, inter alia, by a slowing down of cellular functions and the appearance of structural abnormalities in certain proteins of the extracellular matrix.

The skin becomes less supple, finer, often dry and it loses its elasticity, which is accompanied by wrinkles and fine lines.

In the epidermis, the slowing down of keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation with age is a factor that explains the thinning of the skin during aging. The epidermis atrophies, the skin loses its protective abilities. Dermal fibroblasts are also altered, and there is a decrease in the production of extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen or elastin.

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet and other aggressive environmental factors accelerates and aggravates the aging phenomenon of the skin. We are speaking of photo-aging.

One of the mechanisms playing a major role in the aging method is the accumulation of oxidative damage in essential molecules such as in lipid membranes, proteins, DNA, and more particularly in mitochondrial DNA. Thus, one of the important consequences of the accumulation of these damages is a reduction in the ability of the cell to produce ATP.

For many years, health and cosmetic professionals have been looking for ways to fight or, at least, to reduce the phenomena of skin aging, as well as ways to increase the skin's resistance to external aggressions and to the stress which it suffers daily.

In cosmetics, oils are the basis of the concept of natural cosmetics. Vegetable oils obtained through a natural treatment without the addition of synthetic chemicals are traditionally used for their properties of hydration and protection.

Because of their specific composition, the oils most used in cosmetics are oils composed of long-chain polyunsaturated acids, in particular gamma-linolenic acid, which plays a specific role in the fluidity of membranes, the reduction of trans-epidermal water losses, and the prevention of skin aging. Indeed, some fatty acids are likely to improve or maintain the degree of hydration of the skin.

Oils are most often used as an excipient and not as an active ingredient. However, the Applicant has previously developed a composition, especially useful for cosmetic purposes, comprising, as active ingredient, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least the combination of a specific diacylglycerol (abbreviated as “DAG”) and a particular fatty alcohol. This composition is described and claimed in the patent application PCT/FR2004/000944, published under the reference WO 2004/093832 A2, in the name of the Applicant.

Diacylglycerols (DAG) are compounds specifically described in the Prior Art for their marker properties. They play a fundamental role, in particular through the action they exert on a protein kinase C, and thus have the function of cellular activator.

As disclosed in patent application WO 2004/093832, the reaction method to obtain DAGs may be a chemical reaction carried out in an acidic or alkaline medium such as, for example, the hydrolysis of triglyceride fats. This hydrolysis can also be carried out enzymatically, such as, for example, a biochemical reaction using a hydrolase such as a lipase. Preferably, the DAGs used in the compositions of WO 2004/093832 are obtained from fats (animal, vegetable or synthetic oils) comprising triglycerides having undergone enzymatic hydrolysis, specifically by lipases.

Lipases are enzymes that hydrolyze glycerol esters. Several types of lipase are determined according to their different reaction rate levels. These enzymes can also be classified into several groups, according to their different specificities: with respect to the substrate; position specificity or regioselective; specificity with respect to the nature of fatty acids or typo-selectivity; specificity with respect to a position or stereospecificity.

Some lipases have no specific specificity. Others are regioselective: thus, for example, pancreatic lipase and lipases of microbial origin,Aspergillus, RhysopusorRhizomucor mieheiare 1,3-selective lipases. Regioselective lipases are of common industrial use both in the fat industry and in detergents. Other lipases are stereospecific, such as theCandidalipase, which has a stereospecificity of the sn2 type. The sn nomenclature determines the sn1, sn2 and sn3 positions of the triglyceride skeleton according to the asymmetrical carbon configuration presented in the Fisher projection.

In WO 2004/093832, a stereospecific lipase of the sn3 type (i.e., which allows the hydrolysis of triglycerides in position 3) is advantageously used. This lipase thus hydrolyzes the triglycerides at the 3-position, preferentially forming 1,2-DAG. The lipase used may be of plant origin (Carica papaya) or microbial (Penicellium cyclopium). According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrolysis of the triglycerides is carried out in WO 2004/093832 with a lipase ofCarica papaya(Villeneuve et al.,JAOCS,72, 6:753.1995).

However, although the compositions obtained by implementing the teaching of patent application WO 2004/093832 have, in particular, satisfactory cosmetic properties at the cutaneous level, the Applicant has been endeavoring, for more than ten years, to improve the method for preparing these compositions, which method is exemplified in Example 1 of WO 2004/093832. More specifically, and as indicated in this Example 1, the enzymatic hydrolysis reaction to obtain 1,2-DAG is possible with rawpapayasap, however the use of a purified preparation of this sap after solubilization in an aqueous medium, and with polyol or lyophilized preservation. Indeed, the method of preparation that is the object of Example 1 of WO 2004/093832, if it works, there are a number of practical difficulties. Indeed, with regard to the use of a rawpapayasap, this is particularly disadvantageous in view of the fact that rawpapayasap contains not only the lipase of interest but also proteases (among which is papain, a protease cysteine) which are likely to degrade the lipase or, at the very least, negatively impact its enzymatic activity.

It is therefore logical that Example 1 of WO 2004/093832 favors the use of a purified preparation of this sap after solubilization in an aqueous medium, preserved in a polyol (for example in sorbitol) or freeze-dried. Regarding the latter possibility, it is known to the man skilled in the art that lyophilizates present a number of disadvantages, among which are their extreme sensitivity to atmospheric moisture and their complex (and therefore expensive) manufacturing method.

With regard to the technical solution of using a purified preparation ofpapayasap after solubilization in an aqueous medium and preservation in a polyol (such as sorbitol), it turns out that this technique has the particular disadvantage of requiring a complex treatment subsequent to partial hydrolysis of triglycerides. In fact, in order to stop the partial hydrolysis reaction of the triglycerides, it is necessary to carry out several washing steps of the aqueous medium containing theCarica papayalipase preserved in the polyol, especially using organic solvents.

Moreover, the Applicant has discovered that theCarica papayalipase solubilized in an aqueous medium and preserved in a polyol had undergone freezing and, consequently, could barely—or even could not—be preserved in frozen form, whereas this is would be eminently desirable, with a view to ensuring good quality, convenient and inexpensive preservation of theCarica papayalipase over time.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Through research, the Applicant has developed a real technological platform to overcome all or part of the aforementioned drawbacks. This technological platform is mainly based on obtaining and using the water-insoluble (not soluble in water) fraction of theCarica papayasap. Consequently, the object of this invention is a method for obtaining the water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap, enriched withCarica papayalipase, said method comprising the following steps:a) suspending dried rawCarica papayasap in distilled water, advantageously in a weight ratio of dried rawCarica papaya/distilled water comprised of between about 0.01 and about 0.5 (preferably between 0.01 and 0.5), preferably between about 0.05 and about 0.25 (preferably between 0.05 and 0.25), preferably between about 0.08 and about 0.2 (preferably between 0.08 and 0.2), and particularly preferably about 0.1 (preferably 0.1),b) centrifuging the suspension obtained in step a) so as to obtain a pellet containing said water-insoluble fraction of theCarica papayasap, advantageously for a time period comprised of between about 5 minutes and about 90 minutes (preferably between 5 minutes and 90 minutes), preferably between about 15 and about 60 minutes (preferably between 15 minutes and 60 minutes), preferably between about 20 and about 40 minutes (preferably between 20 and 40 minutes), and advantageously at a rotational speed comprised of between around 2000 and around 6000 rpm (preferably between 2000 and 6000 rpm), preferably between around 3000 and around 5000 rpm (preferably between 3000 and 5000 rpm), preferably around 4000 rpm (preferably 4000 rpm).c) recovering the pellet containing said water-insoluble fraction of theCarica papayasap, enriched withCarica papayalipase.In a particularly advantageous embodiment, said method comprises, after step a) and before step b), the following step:a′) agitating the suspension obtained in step a) during a time period comprised of between about 15 minutes and about 240 minutes (preferably between 15 minutes and 240 minutes), advantageously for a time period of between about 30 minutes and about 180 minutes (preferably between 30 minutes and 180 minutes), preferably between about 60 minutes and about 150 minutes (preferably between 60 minutes and 150 minutes), and particularly preferably about 120 minutes (preferably 120 minutes), and at a temperature comprised of between about 10° C. and about 30° C. (preferably between 10° C. and 30° C.), and at a temperature of between about 15° C. and about 25° C. (preferably between 15° C. and 25° C.), preferably at room temperature.

By room temperature a temperature comprised of between about 20° C. and about 25° C. is meant (preferably between 20° C. and 25° C.), advantageously a temperature of about 20° C. (preferably 20° C.)

Preferably, said method comprises, after step b) and before step c), the following step:b′) drying the wet pellet until a particulate powder is obtained;
the water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap, enriched withCarica papayalipase, being recovered in step c), in the form of particulate powder.

Another object of the invention relates to the water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap enriched withCarica papayalipase, obtainable by the aforementioned method.

The invention also relates to the water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap enriched withCarica papayalipase, obtained directly by the above method.

Particularly advantageously, the Applicant has discovered that this water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap enriched withCarica papayalipase, could be preserved simply by freezing. In addition, the method for obtaining this water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayalipase-enrichedCarica papayasap, is extremely simple to implement and inexpensive.

The invention also relates to the use of the water-insoluble fraction of theCarica papayasap according to this invention for enriching a fat with diacylglycerols (and thus obtaining an activated fat) and/or a wax with fatty alcohols (and thus obtaining an activated wax).

Another object of the invention relates to a method for preparing a diacylglycerol-enriched fat (activated fat), said method comprising the following steps:i) mixing a fat with water or with a saline solution preferably containing a divalent ion, such as a calcium or magnesium ion, in a volume ratio of water or saline solution/fat comprised of between about 0.005 and about 0.5 (preferably between 0.005 and 0.5), preferably between about 0.01 and about 0.4 (preferably between 0.01 and 0.4),ii) maintaining this mixture under agitation (preferably with vigorous agitation, preferably at a speed of around 2000 to around 3000 rpm (preferably from 2000 to 3000 rpm); said vigorous agitation being advantageously obtained by means of an apparatus promoting emulsions) until an emulsion is obtained between the fat and water, at a temperature comprised of between about 30° C. and about 70° C. (preferably between 30° C. and 70° C.), advantageously about 50° C. (preferably 50° C.) preferably during a time period comprised of between about 1 and about 30 minutes (preferably between 1 and 30 minutes), preferably between about 5 and about 20 minutes (preferably between 5 and 20 minutes), and preferably about 10 minutes (preferably 10 minutes),iii) continue under agitation (preferably with moderate agitation, preferably at a speed of around 200 to around 300 rpm [preferably 200 to 300 rpm]) and at said temperature, bringing into contact the mixture obtained in the previous step with a given volume of the water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap, enriched withCarica papayalipase, obtained by implementing the method for obtaining the water-insoluble fraction of the above-mentionedCarica papayasap, in a volume ratio of the water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap/fat used comprised of between about 0.01 and about 0.2 (preferably between 0.01 and 0.2), advantageously between about 0.05 and 0.015 (preferably between 0.05 and 0.015), preferably about 0.1 (preferably 0.1),iv) maintaining said temperature and agitation for a time period of from about one hour to approximately six hours (preferably from one hour to six hours), advantageously from about two hours to about five hours (preferably from two hours to five hours), preferably for about four hours (preferably four hours), to obtain the diacylglycerol-enriched fat.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, this method for preparing a diacylglycerol-enriched fat (activated fat) comprises, after step iv), the following step:v) filtering the mixture obtained in step iv), preferably using at least one gradient filter or at least one superposition of at least two filters of decreasing porosity, advantageously from around 500 μm to around 250 μm (preferably from 500 μm to 250 μm), so as to separate said water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap, enriched inCarica papayalipase, from the reaction medium containing the diacylglycerol-enriched fat.

Preferably, said method comprises, after step v), at least one of the following two steps, and advantageously both:removal of the residual water present in the reaction medium containing the diacylglycerol-enriched fat by means of a drying agent such as anhydrous magnesium sulphate, and/ordeodorizing and/or improving the shine of the diacylglycerol-enriched fat by means of an activated carbon.

This filtration step v) makes it possible to easily stop the partial hydrolysis reaction of the triglycerides contained in the fat without requiring a plurality of aqueous medium washing steps containing the lipase preserved in a polyol (as is the case with method of Example 1 of WO 2004/093832) and to avoid the use of organic solvents. Following this filtration step v), the water-insoluble fractionCarica papayasap is also easily recovered and can be reused.

In general, the fact that is possible to use the water-insoluble fraction of theCarica papayasap obtained by means of the aforementioned production method makes the post-partial hydrolysis handling of the fat relatively easy. In addition, the Applicant has discovered that the use of this water-insoluble fraction of theCarica papayalipase-enrichedCarica papayasap, would preserve unsaturated fatty acids, which have advantageous cosmetic properties.

According to a particular embodiment, the water-insoluble fraction of theCarica papayasap, enriched withCarica papayalipase filtered in step v), is reused in step iii) of the method to prepare a diacylglycerol-enriched fat according to the invention.

Preferably, said fat is an animal, plant and/or marine origin oil, virgin or refined, advantageously virgin, said oil preferably being of plant and/or marine origin, preferably of plant origin.

It is particularly important to note that using the water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap makes it possible for it to “work” with a virgin oil, namely to enrich (activate) a virgin oil with diacylglycerols, which is particularly desirable for reasons of safety and innocuousness (absence of organic solvents related to the refinement of oils etc.). In addition, the method for preparing a diacylglycerol-enriched fat according to the invention is particularly suitable for the enrichment of virgin oils, insofar as the unsaponifiable fraction of the virgin oil is not deteriorated by said method, the enzymatic activity used being of the triacylglycerol esterase type. This makes it possible to preserve the biological activity of the virgin oils after the enrichment method with diacylglycerols; this biological activity being further improved by said method.

Preferably, said fat is an oil comprising triglycerides having:aliphatic hydrocarbon chains of a fatty acid having a carbon number of between 12 and 26, advantageously between 16 and 20, and particularly preferably between 16 and 18; said aliphatic hydrocarbon chain being linear or branched, advantageously linear, saturated or unsaturated, advantageously unsaturated, preferably with a number of unsaturations of between 1 and 6, and preferably of between 1 and 3; ormono- or polyhydroxylated and/or mono- or polymethoxylated and/or mono- or polyoxidized and/or mono- or poly-epoxylated chains.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of this invention, an oil, preferably virgin is used as fat, selected fromCalophyllum inophyllumoil, raspberry oil,Camelliaoil, evening primrose oil, Brazil nut oil, baobab oil and olive oil, or a mixture of at least two of these oils; said oil, preferably virgin, being advantageously selected fromCalophyllum inophyllumoil, raspberry oil,Camelliaoil, evening primrose oil, Brazil nut oil, and baobab oil or a mixture of at least two of these oils; said oil, preferably virgin, being preferably selected fromCalophyllum inophyllumoil, raspberry oil, evening primrose oil and baobab oil or a mixture of at least two of these oils; particularly preferably said fat beingCalophyllum inophyllumoil, preferably virginCalophyllum inophyllumoil.

The above diacylglycerols consist of 1,2-diacylglycerols and 1,3-diacylglycerols respectively represented by the following formulas (I) and (II):

wherein R1 and R2 are:aliphatic hydrocarbon chains of a fatty acid having a carbon number of between 12 and 26, advantageously between 16 and 20, and particularly preferably between 16 and 18 (in other words R1 and R2 represent aliphatic hydrocarbon chains whose carbon number is between 11 and 25, advantageously between 15 and 19, and particularly preferably between 15 and 17); said aliphatic hydrocarbon chain being linear or branched, advantageously linear, saturated or unsaturated, advantageously unsaturated, preferably with a number of unsaturations of between 1 and 6, and preferably of between 1 and 3; ormono- or polyhydroxylated, and/or mono- or polymethoxylated, and/or mono- or polyoxidized, and/or mono- or poly-epoxylated chains.

Preferably, said diacylglycerols comprise predominantly, and preferably consist essentially of, 1,2-diacylglycerols represented by the following formula (I):


wherein R1 and R2 are:aliphatic hydrocarbon chains of a fatty acid having a carbon number of between 12 and 26, advantageously between 16 and 20, and particularly preferably between 16 and 18 (in other words R1 and R2 represent aliphatic hydrocarbon chains whose carbon number is between 11 and 25, advantageously between 15 and 19, and particularly preferably between 15 and 17); said aliphatic hydrocarbon chain being linear or branched, advantageously linear, saturated or unsaturated, advantageously unsaturated, preferably with a number of unsaturations of between 1 and 6, and preferably of between 1 and 3; ormono- or polyhydroxylated, and/or mono- or polymethoxylated, and/or mono- or polyoxidized, and/or mono- or poly-epoxylated chains.

The invention also relates to a method for preparing a fatty alcohol-enriched wax (activated wax), implementing the method for preparing a diacylglycerol-enriched fat referred to above, by making the following adaptations:a wax is used as a fat; andin the place of a diacylglycerol-enriched fat, a fatty alcohol-enriched wax, advantageously fatty alcohols of formula (III), is obtained:
R″—OH  (III)
wherein R″ represents:the aliphatic hydrocarbon chain of a fatty alcohol containing from 10 to 34 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;said aliphatic hydrocarbon chain being linear or branched, advantageously linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably with a maximum of 6 unsaturations; ora mono- or polyhydroxylated, and/or mono- or polymethoxylated, and/or mono- or polyoxidized, and/or mono- or poly-epoxylated chain.

In other words, the invention relates to a method for preparing a fatty alcohol-enriched wax (activated wax), said method comprising the following steps:i′) mixing a wax with water or with a saline solution preferably containing a divalent ion, such as a calcium or magnesium ion, in a volume ratio of water or saline solution/wax comprised of between about 0.005 and about 0.5 (preferably between 0.005 and 0.5), preferably between about 0.01 and about 0.4 (preferably between 0.01 and 0.4),ii′) keeping this mixture under agitation until an emulsion is obtained between the wax and the water at a temperature comprised of between about 30° C. and about 70° C. (preferably between 30° C. and 70° C.) advantageously at about 50° C. (preferably at 50° C.), preferably during a time period comprised of between, advantageously about 1 to 30 minutes (preferably 1 to 30 minutes), preferably between about 5 to about 20 minutes (preferably between 5 and 20 minutes), and preferably about 10 minutes (preferably 10 minutes),iii′) still under agitation and at said temperature, bringing into contact the mixture obtained in the preceding step with a given volume of the water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap, enriched withCarica papayalipase, obtained by implementing the method for obtaining the water-insoluble fraction of the aforesaidCarica papayasap, in a volume ratio of the water-insoluble fraction ofCarica papayasap/wax used from about 0.01 to about 0.2 (preferably between 0.01 and 0.2), advantageously between about 0.05 and 0.015 (preferably between 0.05 and 0.015), preferably about 0.1 (preferably 0.1),iv′) maintaining said temperature and agitation for a time period comprised of between about one hour and about six hours (preferably between one hour and six hours), advantageously between about two hours and about five hours (preferably between two hours and five hours), preferably for about four hours (preferably four hours), to obtain the wax enriched in fatty alcohols.

Preferably, this method comprises, after step iv′), the following step:v′) filtering the mixture obtained in step iv′), preferably using at least one gradient filter or at least one superposition of at least two filters of decreasing porosity, advantageously from around 500 μm to around 250 μm (preferably from 500 μm to 250 μm), so as to separate said water-insoluble fraction ofCaricalipase-enrichedCarica papayasap, from the reaction medium containing the fatty alcohol-enriched wax.

Preferably, said method comprises, after step v′), at least one of the following two steps, and advantageously both:removal of the residual water present in the reaction medium containing the fatty alcohol-enriched wax by means of a drying agent such as anhydrous magnesium sulphate, and/ordeodorizing and/or improving the shine of the fatty alcohol-enriched wax by means of an activated carbon.

For the purposes of this invention, the wax is preferably selected from:a wax of animal origin, such as, for example, beeswax,a wax of mineral origin, or, preferably,a wax of plant origin, such as jojoba wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, or a mixture(s) thereof;
said wax being advantageously jojoba wax.

In a particularly important embodiment, the invention also has for object a diacylglycerol-enriched fat, obtainable by the method for preparing a diacylglycerol-enriched fat according to the invention (see above). Of course, the invention also relates to a diacylglycerol-enriched fat directly obtained by the method for preparing a diacylglycerol-enriched fat according to the invention (see above).

According to a preferred embodiment, said fat has a diacylglycerol content comprised of between about 5% and about 30% (preferably between 5% and 30%), preferably between about 7% and about 18% (preferably between 7% and 30%), an acid index of from about 15 to about 50 mg/g (preferably from 15 to 50 mg/g) and a peroxide index from about 5 to 30 mg/g (preferably from 5 to 30 mg/g), preferably less than 20 mg/g.

This diacylglycerol-enriched fat is also called “activated fat”.

As indicated above, this diacylglycerol-enriched fat (activated) is an oil of animal, plant and/or marine origin, virgin or refined, advantageously virgin, said oil being preferably of vegetable and/or marine origin, preferably of plant origin.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, this diacylglycerol-enriched fat (activated) is an oil, preferably virgin, selected fromCalophyllum inophyllumoil, raspberry oil,Camelliaoil, evening primrose oil, Brazil nut oil, baobab oil and olive oil, or a mixture of at least two of these oils; said oil, preferably virgin, being advantageously selected fromCalophyllum inophyllumoil, raspberry oil,Camelliaoil, evening primrose oil, Brazil nut oil and baobab oil or a mixture of at least two of these oils; particularly preferably said fat beingCalophyllum inophyllumoil, preferably virginCalophyllum inophyllumoil. Indeed, the Applicant has discovered that these (preferably virgin) diacylglycerol-enriched oils, and preferably 1,2 diacylglycerols, have particularly advantageous cosmetic properties when administered by cutaneous application. This is why the invention extends more broadly to a diacylglycerol-enriched oil (activated oil), advantageously 1,2 diacylglycerols, as defined above, independently from the method for enrichment with diacylglycerols used to produce the activated oil.

Another object of the invention relates to a fatty alcohol-enriched wax (activated wax), capable of being obtained by the method for preparing a fatty alcohol-enriched wax above. Naturally, the invention also relates to a fatty alcohol-enriched wax (activated wax), directly obtained by the method for preparing a fatty alcohol-enriched wax above.

The invention also has for object a cosmetic composition comprising, consisting essentially of or consisting of:at least one diacylglycerol-enriched fat as mentioned above in an amount representing from 10−6% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount representing from 10-4% to 10%, preferably in an amount representing from 10−3% to 2%, preferably from 0.01% to 5%, even more preferentially from 0.5 to 2.5% of the total weight of the final composition and
at least one physiologically acceptable excipient.

The invention also has for object a cosmetic composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of:at least one fatty alcohol-enriched wax as mentioned above, in an amount representing from 10−6% to 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount representing from 10-4% to 1%, preferably 0.01% % to 3%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% of the total weight of the final composition and
at least one physiologically acceptable excipient.

In a particularly significant embodiment, the invention also has for object a cosmetic composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of, a mixture of at least one diacylglycerol-enriched fat as mentioned above and at least one fatty alcohol-enriched wax as mentioned above, advantageously in a ratio by weight of fatty alcohol-enriched wax/diacylglycerol-enriched fat comprised of between 0.01 and 0.11, preferably between 0.02 and 0.08, and preferably about 0.03 (preferably 0.03).

The invention also has for object a cosmetic composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of:a mixture of at least one diacylglycerol-enriched fat as mentioned above and at least one fatty alcohol-enriched wax as mentioned above, advantageously in a weight ratio of fatty alcohol-enriched wax/diacylglycerol-enriched fat comprised of between 0.01 and 0.11, preferably between 0.02 and 0.08, and preferably about 0.03 (preferably 0.03), and
at least one physiologically acceptable excipient.

The invention also has for object a cosmetic composition comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of:a mixture of at least one diacylglycerol-enriched fat as mentioned above and at least one fatty alcohol-enriched wax as mentioned above, in an amount representing from 10−6% to 20% of the total weight of the composition preferably in an amount representing from 10-4% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5%, even more preferentially from 0.5 to 2.5% of the total weight of the final composition and
at least one physiologically acceptable excipient.

The composition according to the invention may be applied by any appropriate route, in particular oral, or externally topical, and the formulation of the compositions will be adapted by the man skilled in the art.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in a form suitable for topical application. These compositions must therefore contain a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say, compatible with the skin and its appendages, without risk of discomfort during their application and covering all suitable cosmetic forms.

By topical application, it is meant to the application or spreading of the composition according to the invention on the surface of the skin or mucosa.

In the context of the invention, a physiologically acceptable excipient designates a vehicle suitable for contact with the outer layers of the skin or its appendages, that is to say which does not exhibit toxicity and does not cause irritation, undue allergic response or intolerance reaction. A physiologically acceptable excipient may comprise one or more compounds.

As a physiologically acceptable excipient commonly used in the intended field of application, mention may be made, for example, of adjuvants necessary for the formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, antioxidants, dyes, sunscreens, self-tanning agents, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers, essential oils, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, film-forming polymers, etc.

In all cases, the man skilled in the art will ensure that these adjuvants and their proportions are chosen in such a way as not to harm the desirable advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention.

A physiologically acceptable excipient may comprise one or more compounds.

The compositions for the implementation of the invention may be notably in the form of an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solution, of an oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil or multiple emulsions; they may also be in the form of suspensions or even powders, suitable for application to the skin, mucous membranes, lips and/or hair.

These compositions may be more or less fluid and may also have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, a paste or a foam. They can also be in solid form, as a stick or may be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol.

As a physiologically acceptable excipient commonly used in the intended field of application, mention may be made, for example, of adjuvants necessary for the formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, antioxidants, dyes, sunscreens, self-tanning agents, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers, essential oils, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, film-forming polymers, etc.

In all cases, the man skilled in the art will ensure that these adjuvants and their proportions are chosen in such a way as not to harm the desirable advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention. These adjuvants may, for example, correspond to 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. When the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, the fatty phase can represent from 5 to 80% by weight and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers used in the composition are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. For example, they can be used in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient according to the invention can be encapsulated or included in a cosmetic vector such as liposomes or any other nanocapsule or microcapsule used in the field of cosmetics or adsorbed on powdered organic polymers, mineral supports like talcs and bentonites.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the active ingredient according to the invention, at least one other active ingredient having cosmetic effects similar and/or complementary to those of the invention. According to the invention, this active ingredient is defined as an “additional active ingredient”.

For example, the additional active ingredient(s) may be chosen from: anti-aging, firming, lightening, moisturizing, draining, microcirculation promoting agents, pharmaceutical agents, exfoliants, desquamative agents, that stimulate the extracellular matrix, activating energy metabolism, antibacterial, antifungal, soothing, anti-free radicals, anti-UV, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, anesthetic agents, that provide a feeling of warmth, and a feeling of freshness and slimming.

Such additional agents may be selected from the groups comprising:vitamin A and in particular retinoic acid, retinol, retinol propionate, and retinol palmitate;vitamin B3 and more particularly niacinamide, tocopherol nicotinate;vitamin B5, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, panthenol;vitamin C, in particular ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl tetrapalmitate, magnesium and sodium ascorbyl phosphate;vitamins E, F, H, K, PP, coenzyme Q10;metalloproteinase inhibitors, or an activator of TIMPs;DHEA, its precursors and derivatives;amino acids such as arginine, ornithine, hydroxyproline, hydroxyproline dipalmitate, palmitoylglycine, hydroxylysine, methionine and its derivatives, N-acyl amino acid compounds;natural or synthetic peptides, including di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexapeptides and their lipophilic derivatives, isomers and complexed with other species such as a metal ion (e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and others). By way of examples, mention may be made of the peptides commercially known under the name MATRIXYL®, ARGIRELINE®, CHRONOGEN™, LAMINIXYL IS™, PEPTIDE Q10™, COLLAXYL™ (patent FR2827170, ASHLAND®), PEPTIDE VINCI 01™ (patent FR2837098, ASHLAND®), PEPTIDE VINCI 02™ (patent FR2841781, ASHLAND®), ATPeptide™ (patent FR2846883, ASHLAND®) or the synthetic peptide sequence Arg-Gly-Ser-NH2, marketed under the name ATPeptide™ by ASHLAND@;Artemia salinaextract, marketed under the name GP4G™ (FR2817748, ASHLAND®);plant peptide extracts such as linseed extracts (Lipigenine™, patent FR2956818, ASHLAND®), soy bean, spelt, grapevine, rapeseed, flax, rice, maize, and pea extracts;yeast extracts, for example Dynagen™ (patent FR2951946, ASHLAND®) or Actopontine™ (patent FR2944526, ASHLAND®);dehydroacetic acid (DHA);phystosterols of synthetic or natural origin;salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, silanols;amino sugars, glucosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine;polyphenol extracts, isoflavones, flavonoids, such as grape extracts, pine extracts, olive extracts;lipids such as ceramides or phospholipids, oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane; vegetable oils, such as sweet almond, coconut, castor, jojoba, olive, rapeseed, peanut, sunflower, wheat germ, corn germ, soy bean, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, evening primrose, millet, barley, rye, safflower, passionflower, hazelnut, palm, apricot kernel, avocado, calendula; ethoxylated vegetable oils, and shea butter;all UV screens and sunscreens;cyclic AMP and its derivatives, activating agents of the adenylate cyclase enzyme and phosphodiesterase enzyme inhibiting agents,Centella asiaticaextract, asiaticoside and asiatic acid, methyl xanthines, theine, caffeine and its derivatives, theophylline, theobromine, forskolin, esculin and esculoside, ACE inhibitors, Val-Trp peptide, neuropeptide Y inhibitors, enkephalin, extract ofGingko biloba, Dioscoreaextract, rutin, yerba mate extract, guarana extract, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, carnitine, ivy extract, fucus extract, extract hydrolyzedPrunella vulgaris, hydrolysed extract ofCelosia cristata, Anogeissus leiocarpusextract,Manihot utilisissimaleaf extract, palmitoylcarnitine, carnosine, taurine, elderberry extract, seaweed extract such asPalmaria palmataextract.

The object of the invention is also the cosmetic use of an effective amount of at least one diacylglycerol-enriched fat according to the invention, of at least one fatty alcohol-enriched wax according to the invention, or of a composition according to the invention, by cutaneous application, to:

delay the appearance or limit the signs of skin aging, and/or

protect the skin and/or its appendages against all types of external aggressions, and/or

promote epidermal differentiation, and/or

strengthen the barrier function of the skin and/or its appendages,

in a healthy human or animal individual (preferably mammalian), preferably human.

“Visible signs of skin aging” means any changes in the external appearance of the skin due to aging, such as, for example, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentary defects such as age spots or lack of radiance, bags under the eyes, dark circles, withering, loss of elasticity, firmness and/or skin tone, but also any internal changes in the skin that do not systematically result in a change in external appearance such as for example, thinning of the skin, or any internal damage to the skin resulting from environmental stresses such as pollution and UV radiation.

The skin is an organ whose upper part, the stratum corneum and the hydrolipidic film that covers it, acts as a physical barrier protecting the external environment. This barrier role, more commonly known as “skin barrier function”, is of major importance in tissue homeostasis. However, it is known that alterations in the barrier function result from external aggression by agents such as ultraviolet radiation (UVA and UVB), cold, drought, atmospheric pollution, certain chemical substances, etc. Alterations in the barrier function are also observed during aging of the skin and are due, among other things, to slowing down and to abnormal epidermal differentiation, which may lead to an increase in skin permeability.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible to fight against all these external aggressions, by favoring an optimal epidermal differentiation making it possible to maintain a functional histological structure and physiological permeability sufficient to maintain this essential barrier function represented by the skin.

The object of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for delaying the appearance or limiting the signs of skin aging and/or combating the cell aging phenomena at the cutaneous level and/or for protecting the skin and/or its appendages against all types of external aggressions and/or to promote cell differentiation at the cutaneous level and/or to reinforce the barrier function of the skin and/or its appendages, consisting of applying to at least part of the skin and/or its appendages an effective amount of the composition according to the invention, as defined above.

