barbarians who roamed the steppes on the borders of the country.

And even if in Yunnan, "milk cake" is regarded as part of a Chinese regional cuisine, there is no escaping the fact that this region is a special case.

The province lies on the fringes of China, its population a hotchpotch of nationalities whose dietary habits are far removed from those of the Han Chinese.

And although Mrs Luo's Han Chinese neighbours also make cheese, she herself is a member of the Yi ethnic minority - a reminder that dairy foods were never really part of the Chinese mainstream.

But if cheese eating still has a whiff of foreignness about it, the way in which it is eaten here is distinctly Chinese.

After our labours, Bi Wei and I sit down withMarianne

Product Notes

The Bobby Haynes Blues Band has been featured at the Eagle Rock Music Festival for the last five years. In the blues field, Bobby has played with T-bone Walker, Big Joe Turner, Percy Mayfield, John Mayall, and Paul Butterfield. Artists featured: Bobby Haynes: Vocal and Bass, H.B. Barnum: Piano, Bobby Haynes, Jr.: Guitar and Vocals, Leslie Howell: Vocals, Rick Fleishman: Guitar, Richard Martinez: Drums, David T. Paul: Harp.

Credits

The Bobby Haynes Blues Band has been featured at the Eagle Rock Music Festival for the last five years. In the blues field, Bobby has played with T-bone Walker, Big Joe Turner, Percy Mayfield, John Mayall, and Paul Butterfield. Artists featured: Bobby Haynes: Vocal and Bass, H.B. Barnum: Piano, Bobby Haynes, Jr.: Guitar and Vocals, Leslie Howell: Vocals, Rick Fleishman: