to carry on French trains. Don't be a coward! Unless this umber-colored round (sold in a balsa wood box) is supremely ripe, the smell is inoffensive. And the taste is beyond words, like creamed onions and bacon. Before you serve it, uncover it and let it breathe for an hour (the smell will dissipate). Serve with warm, steamed new potatoes, celery sticks, and toasted baguette rounds. White Burgundy is an exquisite pairing.

**Comté**

Pair this sweet, nutty Alpine cheese with caramelized nuts, Dijon mustard, onion jam, and pickles. A good sausage, like saucisson sec, is marvelous alongside. Comté is one of the great cave-aged cheeses of all time. It melts beautifully on toast or over French onion soup, if you want to try it in place of Gruyère—which is abehind Rice was because Rice gave them the impression that he was defending himself from her (as ridiculous as the notion is of a weaponless, petite woman being a threat to a pro athlete). The video, the player said, betrays what Rice told players.

Harbaugh will address the media at 8 PM.