served in a tomato fennel ragout, was a super flavorful dish, tasting fresh and satisfying. The smoked pork shoulder was excellent as well, and they do a very good burger and you can put an egg on it. There are over 20 beers on tap, rotating seasonally. The wine list is well chosen and affordable, with a good selection available by the glass. Cocktails are done well: flavorful, interesting, and potent.

Roe, **3113 SE Division St., Portland, OR 97202; (503) 232-1566;roe-pdx.com; Seafood; $$$.** This romantic and modern seafood restaurant is discreetly hidden in the back of the boisterous izakaya Wafu restaurant, and is only available by reservation, just three nights per week. Strange, but true. Chef Trent Pierce is considered a seafood master, and Roe has some fine examplescool town that feels a bit like you have stepped back in time. It has been getting increasingly more popular and more restaurants and shops are opening up. Bridgewater has a great location at the mouth of the river, and the restaurant is open and full of light. The seafood is fresh and the offerings are varied and everything has always been wonderful. The seafood is prepared by a chef who knows how to showcase this kind of food. There is a delicious Asian-inspired stew of whatever is in season, and the Dungeness crab, when available, is amazing. This place is fairly expensive; however, you can't beat the view or the quality of what is offered.

**Fulio's Pastaria** , _1149 Commercial St., Astoria, OR 97103; (503) 325-9001;fulios.com; Italian; $$_.