diamond shapes (lozenges). Use the pieces within 1 hour or freeze them in a single layer on a floured rimmed baking sheet, transfer them to a zipper-lock plastic bag, and freeze them for up to 1 month.

Grind the pistachios and oil in a food processor until the nuts are very finely chopped but not completely pureed, 1 to 2 minutes. Taste the mixture, adding salt and pepper until it tastes good to you. You should have about 1 cup (237 ml).

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop in the testarolo pieces and cook them for 15 seconds, just to reheat and slightly hydrate them. Avoid overcooking them or they will turn to mush.

Meanwhile, toast the pine nuts in a large, deep sauté pan overleaves

To make the duck ragù, heat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Remove the giblets from the duck and reserve them for another use. Trim away any excess fat from the duck. Cut the leg-thigh portions from the body by pulling each leg away from the body, bending the leg to find the hip joint, and then driving your knife straight through the joint. Remove the breasts by cutting slits on either side of the breastbone, and then working the knife carefully around the rib cage, keeping the knife against bone at all times and pulling the breast away from the carcass. Reserve the carcass to make duck stock. Separate the legs from the thighs by driving a cleaver straight through the joint.

Season the duck pieces all over with