coachman has often to dismount six or eight times in an hour to open
and close these gates.  I was told that these delectable gates even exist
on the great high road, only not quite in such profusion as on the
by-roads.

Wood must be as abundant here as in Norway, for every thing is enclosed;
even fields which seem so barren as not to be worth the labour or the
wood.

The villages through which I passed were generally pretty and cheerful,
and I found the cottages, which I entered while the horses were changed,
neatly and comfortably furnished.

The peasants of this district wear a peculiar costume.  The men, and
frequently also the boys, wear long dark-blue cloth surtouts, and cloth
caps on their heads; so that, at a distance, they look like gentlemen in
travelling dress.                                September 20th.

On account of the contrary wind, we had cast anchor here last night, and
this morning continued the journey to Calmar, where we arrived about two
in the forenoon.  The town is situated on an immense plain, and is not
very interesting.  A few hours may be agreeably spent here in visiting
the beautiful church and the antiquated castle, and we had more than
enough leisure for it.  Wind and weather seemed to have conspired against
us, and the captain announced an indefinite stay at this place.  At first
we could not land, as the waves were too