My journey began in Antigua, after a five-hour nonstop flight from Los Angeles to Guatemala City and an hour's drive southwest. Founded in the mid-16th century by the Spanish, Antigua is one of the oldest and most picturesque cities in the Americas, a treasure-trove of colonial architecture and monuments. A massive volcano, Volcán Fuego, rises dramatically over the city, sending a steady plume of smoke into the air.

Pastel-colored shops and homes line cobblestone streets in the 12-square-block Ciudad Vieja (Old Town), designated a national monument and a UNESCO heritage site.

The city is a favorite of veteran visitors, many of whom skip crowded Guatemala City and use Antigua as a base. It also appeals to first-timers, who feel safe on its well-patrolled streets.

Although I had flown overnight to gethere, I was eager to stroll Antigua's charming streets, so I quickly checked into my hotel, Mesón de María, and walked to the main plaza in the early morning light. An empty bench beckoned in the graceful Parque Central, and I de-stressed for a few moments, watching sculpted mermaids guard the Baroque fountain that anchors the park.

Many of the passersby were U.S. tourists. They were easy to pick out, especially a group of more than a dozen who were trailing behind ex-pat Elizabeth Bell, a cultural historian from San Francisco who now runs Antigua Tours.

Bell, who has lived in the city 36 years, was regaling her charges with stories about the city and its current prosperity.

"You used to have to wait 20 years just to get a phone