in Antigua. Another opportunity to walk its cobblestone streets, to explore its monumental ruins, to dine on caldo real, La Fonda's famous chicken stew. I walked into the restaurant, noticed the Clinton photos on the wall and saw a dish on the menu called de toda un poco (a little bit of everything). It was listed as "Bill Clinton's favorite."

The former president's popularity here isn't surprising. Clinton's visit was a seminal moment for the beleaguered nation. On the same day he visited Mercedes Beteta's restaurant — March 10, 1999 — Clinton expressed "regret" to the Guatemalan people for the pivotal role the U.S. played in the 36-year civil war that racked the country — a war that is blamed for the death of thousands of rural Mayas.

He saidWashington, which supplied military aid and CIA advisors for decades, "was wrong" to have supported the Guatemalan security forces that tortured, kidnapped and killed civilians during the war.

Beteta doesn't recall the apology. She only remembers the president's unexpected visit to her restaurant and that he "really ate a lot," including a big bowl of her caldo real. "He left us a note saying his dinner was wonderful. And my daughters thanked him for the honor of having him here. Then they gave him a clay pigeon. They said to him, 'It is a symbol of the peace you have brought in the world.' "

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Antigua and more

GETTING THERE:

From LAX to Guatemala City, nonstop flights are available on United and Taca; direct (stop, no change of plane)