the show begins in the 19th century with a pair of patriotic pieces: an 1889 costume bearing an American Flag motif and Catherine Malandrino's Flag Dress, which debuted in 2001 after 9-11, and was recently reissued in response to last fall's Presidential campaign. For a rundown of some the exhibit's most compelling pieces, we talked to Farley and co-curator Melissa Marra.

—Erin Clements

American Flag costume, printed cotton, circa 1889, USA

"Flag costumes were commonly worn to parades and pageants during the 19th century," says Marra. "They were intended to promote a sense of national identity and patriotism."

Liberty of London, dress, brown silk velvet, circa 1910, England

"Liberty of London was associated with the `Aesthetic' dress movement in the late 19th century and specialized in healthy, comfortable fashion for women," says Marra."Their clothing was desired by artists, intellectuals, and bohemians well into the 20th century. They offered another option to the Victorian fashions of the period, which were much more restrictive."

"This is during World War II and women are enlisting in female divisions of the armed forces, like the W.A.V.E.S. division of the Navy, and getting to wear uniforms designed by the American-born couturier Mainbocher," says Farley. "Mainbocher had been based in Paris until the war and had just come back to America. It was just sort of a bonus for these women who were serving their country, contributing to the war effort, to get to wear the very best."

Dress, white cotton with red "IKE" print, circa 1956

"The `Ike' dress was worn in support of Dwight Eisenhower's election campaign,"