This remains one of Iran's least known and most spectacular areas. In colder months you'll still see Howraman men wearing _kolobal,_ brown-felt jackets with distinctive shoulder 'horns'. There is plenty of age-old stone terracing and the villages are stacked Masuleh-style, one house's roof forming the next one's yard.

The Hurami Kurdish language is quite distinct from Sorani Kurdish, which replaced it in Sanandaj, though Hurami was once the dialect of choice for regional Kurdish poets. Knowing even a few words will flabbergast and delight locals you meet. _Fere-washa_ and _zarif_ mean beautiful, _wazhmaze_ means delicious, _deset wazhbu_ (literally 'hand good') means thank you to which one replies _sarat wazhbu_ ('head good' ie you're welcome).

From Biyakara, 17km east of Marivan, an asphalted road leads up through a narrow canyon, transitsInn HOTEL $$

(Jahangardi Inn;   225 3088; fax 225 3665; Ahmar Shahid Rajaie St; d US$64, extra bed US$12.50;   ) Who would have thought that Na'in would have one of the best accommodation options in the province? Certainly not us. But the eight split-level suites arranged around an attractive courtyard at this Pahlavi-era hotel about 150m southwest of Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Sq are as stylish as they are well equipped, and the hotel restaurant (meals US$6) is a favourite with locals and tourists alike.

Mosaferkhaneh Gholami MOSAFERKHANEH $

(  0913 223 4667; Imam St; s/d US$12.50/22.50) Mr Gholami's cheap and cheerful guesthouse is about 300m east of Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Sq above a bakery. The simple rooms have hard beds, the shared bathrooms (squat toilets only)