This is a frustrating article. In short, you have someone who eats animal products arguing that vegans should stick to non-processed alternatives because they don't like the way they taste. That's like having a professional sports car driver tell you that you should be spending $100 000 on your next car because the cheap alternatives don't run the same. 

It's sad that a writer for a publication like the Globe and Mail can't overlook their obvious bias. 

What's pertinent is whether or not those looking for plant-based food alternatives enjoy these foods. What's less pertinent is whether someone who consumes, and presumably enjoys animal-based food products, gives these menu items a positive review.