The Influence of Stitch Density and of the Type of Sewing Thread on Seam Strength
Having in mind the complex problems of technological process of sewing, as well as general demands for seams produced in garment production, this research should contribute the development of sewed seams breaking forces. Thus, many measurements of seam breaking forces have been conducted. These measurements enable us to define optimal strength of seam strength that improves the compliance of sewed seams parameters. This paper deals with the influence of the thread type and stitch density on the seam strength. The breaking forces and elongations at break were determined by the standardized method (SRPS 2062) and fabric (tape method) according to SRPS EN ISO 13934-1. Fabric samples used for seam testing were sewed by seam (1.01.01) and stitch type 301 with stitch densities 3, 4 and 5 cm. Optimal seam strength (130.9 Ncm) on the fabric T71, and at the same time the highest strength, has been noticed at the samples with seam line in weft direction with stitch density 5 cm, sewed with polyester thread 20x2 tex count, while on fabric T71 that value is 115.9 Ncm. According to obtained results, it can be concluded that stitch density (3 cm ÷ 5 cm) and the type of sewing thread (cotton and polyester, K1 ÷ K5) have great influence on defining seam sttrength, their inconsistency may lead to great differences in seam behavior.
Prediction of seam performance of light weight woven fabrics
Light weight fabrics are selected for their aesthetic qualities, drape, and handle. But these fabrics are difficult to sew. Seams are the basic elements in a structure of any apparel. Seam performance affects the quality of the apparel product. In this research seam performance of two kinds of light woven fabrics differs in their construction (chiffon and satin) were studied in terms of seam strength, efficiency, and seam strain. The effect of some sewing parameters (sewing thread count, stitch density, needle size, stitch type) on seam strength, efficiency, and seam strain were investigated. Regression equations which can predict each of the previous parameters were concluded in both warp and weft directions. It was found that the stitch density and the interaction between thread count and stitch type affect warp seam strength for both chiffon and satin fabric. Sewing thread count has significant effect on seam stress in both directions for both fabrics under study. Also it affects seam strain in warp direction for satin fabric. The significant effect of sewing needle count on seam performance appears only in seam stress in warp direction for chiffon fabric.
Self-assembly of pyridinium-tailored anthracene amphiphiles into supramolecular hydrogels.
The mixing of a polyacid cross-linker with a pyridinium-functionalized anthracene amphiphile afforded a supramolecular hydrogel through a self-assembly process that was primarily driven by π-stacking and electrostatic interactions.