Investigation of the Fabric Construction of the Effect on Pilling and Abrasion in Yarn Dyed Cotton Fabrics
For this study, yarn dyed cotton woven fabrics were produced in three different yarn counts and three different patterns, then pre-treatment processes were applied to these fabrics. The physical properties and pilling and mass losses with abrasion performance properties of these fabrics were determined experimentaly according to relevant standarts. The obtained results were evaluated and fabric construction of the effect on pilling and abrasion was analyzed.
Comparison of Physical Properties of Fabrics Woven from Open-End and Ring Spun Yarns
It is well established that open-end yarns are different from ring yarns; in particular OE yarns are weaker and more bulky in spite of the higher twist levels used. The introduction of these yarns into woven fabric affects the structure and the characteristics of the fabrics. The fabric structure traps non-load bearing fibers and thus gives increases in fabric strength and decreases in fabric extensibility. Crimp levels are altered which affect the initial modulus and the breaking extension of the fabric. This and the different yarn characteristics lead to considerable difference in tear strength. In the cases, of both ring and OE fabrics, the looser the structure, the worse the pilling performance and the better the tear performance. Compromises have to be made according to end-use. The changes in structure alter the topography of the fabric which affects the wear behavior. The changes in structure also affect the crease resistance and flexural rigidity characteristics of the fabrics. Thus the differences in the yarn structure play a distinct part in determining the final nature of the fabric.
Incremental Frictional Abrasion
Three pairs of matched fabrics, 100% cotton broadcloth, 50% polyester/50% cotton broadcloth, and 65% polyester/ 35% cotton printcloth, were abraded in an Accelerotor. One fabric of each pair had a pure finish and one had a creaseresistant finish. Eight levels of abrasion were used in the study. Fiber length distributions and fiber tensile properties were analyzed before and after abrasion to determine the effect of the abrasion on these fiber properties and to determine the mechanism by which any damage occurred. The cotton fibers tended to break into shorter lengths as a result of abrasion. This tendency was most pronounced in the resin-finished polyester/cotton printcloth, which lost virtually all of its cotton fiber content. It appeared to be least pronounced in the resin-finished cotton broadcloth, which lost many of its shortest fibers but showed no significant decrease in the number of longer fibers. The polyester fibers in the blended broadcloths showed some reductions in fiber length as a result of abrasion, while those in the printcloths did not. There were progressively greater losses in strength of the remaining fibers for both polyester and cotton fibers as a result of increasing levels of abrasion. However, much of the abrasion damage sustained by the resin-finished blended fabrics appeared to be caused by cotton fiber fracture within the internal structure of the yarn because of the unequal elongation characteristics of the cotton and polyester fibers.