Combining a natural talent for tailoring with a heavy dose of the avant-garde, Yohji Yamamoto has acquired a reputation as one of the most striking designers of all time. His Y-3 collaboration collection with Adidas is enormously successful and he also shows his own collection at Paris Fashion Week.
Rei Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons in the late 1960s. With a desire to create ‘anti-fashion’ she made clothing that was deconstructed, frayed and asymmetrical. Ironically it became highly desirable. Today her fashion line Comme des Garçons is designed by Junya Watanabe, but still retains her ethos as its heart.
As founder of the Kenzo label, Kenzo Takada played a key role in the development Japanese fashion, although he is no longer head of the brand he started. He incorporated traditional Japanese clothing features into everyday garments, such as putting kimono sleeves into knitwear devised for the European market. Simple shapes and flower motifs are his design calling cards.
Originally known as Rei Kawakubo’s protégé, Junya Watanabe later established his own line, which is now highly successful. A big fan of modern textiles and fashion techniques, he is one of Japan’s leading fashion pioneers and even created solar-panelled outerwear for his autumn/winter 2016 show.
Current head designer at Issey Miyake, Yoshiyuki Miyamae has established himself as one of the best modern Japanese designers of today. Combining classic Issey Miyake silhouettes with his own techniques, he is hugely influenced by technology in his fashion work.
Issey Miyake is a favourite designer of many celebrities and well-known names, including the late Steve Jobs; Miyake produced the now classic black turtlenecks Jobs always wore. Miyake is also famous for pleats and perfumes.
After graduating from Nagoya Fashion College Atsushi Nakashima moved to Paris and was hired as assistant designer to Jean Paul Gaultier. He has now made a name for himself with his eponymous fashion brand. Shown at Milan Fashion Week, his designs can be recognised by their futuristic details and classic silhouettes.
Junko Shimada launched her first fashion line in the early 80s and is often referred to as the most French Japanese designer. Head designer at Cacharel before moving to work with denim at Levi’s, she is best known for her romantic, feminine silhouettes.
When celebrities need a knockout outfit for the red carpet they look to Tadashi Shoji. The designer’s intricate dresses flatter every figure and because of this have been worn to big Hollywood events including the Academy Awards. Shoji currently shows at New York Fashion Week.
Yasuko Furuta claims to create clothes for women who can only live in chaos. Her brand Toga mixes styles from across decades to create a unique look, with combinations such as 60s hemlines and 70s fabrics. Toga shows at London Fashion Week.
Japan has produced some of the finest talents in the fashion world, and many, such as Issey Miyake and Kenzo, have even become household names. From avant-garde to urban and streetwear styles, the country loves the future and all things modern but still respects its ancient traditions. The result is clothing unlike any other. If you aren’t up to date on the key figures in Japanese fashion, this gallery will give you an education.