Why do stores and manufacturers use mail in rebates? A scam, or is there a way to use them effectively?
"It's an effective way to achieve market segmentation without having to ask your customers how rich they are, and you get the benefit of finding out additional information like their address, email etc. The principle is similar to coupons on cereal boxes, anybody can get the rebate/discount if they go to the effort, but people who are cash rich/time poor are less likely to do so than those that really need the money. Joel Spolsky wrote about this and various other pricing mechanisms a while back, I like to reference the article every few weeks. It's well worth a read. Now, if you're retired and living off of social security, $7 an hour sounds pretty good, so you do it, but if you're a stock analyst at Merrill Lynch getting paid $12,000,000 a year to say nice things about piece-of-junk Internet companies, working for $7 an hour is a joke, and you're not going to clip coupons. Heck, in one hour you could issue ""buy"" recommendations on ten piece-of-junk Internet companies! So coupons are a way for consumer products companies to charge two different prices and effectively segment their market into two. Mail-in rebates are pretty much the same as coupons, with some other twists like the fact that they reveal your address, so you can be direct marketed to in the future." I've had positive experiences and negative ones. One key is to be sure you have followed ALL of the instructions. Once I forgot a small piece of information and lost out on $40. I was not happy. A few weeks ago I got a rebate for $50 from Staples, and it couldn't have been simpler. Stick with big companies and make sure you do everything on time. Companies use rebates because they know some people will forget, mess up, or not use the rebate. They make a ton of money off of unused rebates. "Unfortunately too many companies view a Mail in rebate as an unwelcome cost instead of as a customer interaction issue, and it gives the company a bad reputation when someone gets stiffed on the mail in rebate, and it also has basically ruined the concept to a large degree. Many people will simply regard the rebate as worthless and evaluate the product based on the full price - killing what the company wanted to get out of it (Rich Seller hit the nail on the head), which is why you see ""instant rebates"" etc." Chiming in with other answers that incriminate market segmentation attempts, I would like to offer this Seth Godin video where (among other things) he speaks about breakage, the art of making coupon redemption so difficult that most people get it wrong and do not redeem them. Oh, and when comparing/deciding which/whether to buy, I always use the up-front price. Don't want to encourage the wrong behavior. Rebates are a great way to give discounts to customers who are cost sensitive. A long time ago, I worked for a retailer that extensively used rebates as a marketing tool. From my point of view, about 90% of the complaints that I investigated were a result of people not following directions. Biggest single thing was not sending original documentation when it was called for. There are many reasons, some already covered by other answers. I have a blog post on the issue here, and I'll summarize: Some notable percentage of buyers won't even try to do the rebate, or will forget - so it's a [relatively] cheap incentive to the consumer than most will miss out on. Not so much a scam, if you fill the required paperwork and actually take time to mail it in assuming it's done correctly; you will get your money. That being said, having a mail-in rebate program is usually a win-win for the seller. While they may have to pay a small fee to a third party who handles the rebate almost always this influences a potential buyer to choose a specific product over the alternative. The seller knows very well that very few people will actually go through with it. And yes, they do often make the process needlessly complicated and long as a deterrent.  Plus, let's be real, no one likes sending out physical letters anymore. From a marketing standpoint the mail-in rebate is a brilliant idea. However, it's usually more of an annoyance for the consumer.
Computers and digital cameras are great candidates for handing down because they can still be useful long after they have started looking dated to the initial buyer. Buying DVDs is unfortunately more convenient than renting in my hometown, but we make up for this by a liberal borrowing policy. And, perhaps most unusually, coupons -- the special discounts that mail-order retailers like to send when it's convenient for them to make a sale (or just arbitrarily, really). Those often have complicated terms so that they are only really interesting if exactly two articles are ordered, or the amount of the order exactly 80 EUR. A couple of persons in the family are the specialists of these discounts, and others can just tell them to watch for an interesting item. They'll place the order at the best time. Every reward program has to have a funding source. If the card gives you x percent back on all purchases. That means that their business is structured to entice you to pump more transactions through the system. Either their other costs are lower, or the increased business allows them to make more money off of late fees, and interest. If the card has you earn extra points for buying a type of item or from a type of store (home stores improvement in the Spring), they are trying to make sure you use their card for what can be a significant amount of business during a small window of time. Sometimes they cap it by saying 5% cash back at home improvement stores during the spring but only on the first $1500 of purchases. That limits it to $75 maximum. Adding more business for them, makes more money for them. Groceries and gas are a good year round purchase categories. Yes there is some variation depending on the season, and the weather, but overall there is not an annual cliff once the season ends. Gas and groceries account for thousands of dollars a year these are not insignificant categories, for many families are recession proof. If they perceive a value from this type of offer they will change their buying behavior.  My local grocery store has a deal with a specific gas station. This means that they made a monetary deal. Because you earn points at the grocery store and spend points at the gas station, the grocery store is paying some compensation to the gas station every time you use points. The gas station must be seeing an increase in business so theoretically they don't get 100% compensation from the grocery store.  In cases where credit cards give airline miles, the credit card company buys the miles from the airline at a discount because they know that a significant number of miles will never be used. "Did you even read the article?  These were people who went into the store and did this in person.  there are no ""orders"" to cancel.  As for invalidating the cards, again, the article stated that many people took the Target gift cards and used them to buy Amex and Visa gift cards.    tl;dr **RTFA**" "This one struck a nerve I see.   I also certainly understand your side- it's not ""right"" for the consumer to do it, in a strictly moral sense of the word. However, they're operating in a marketplace where Target will use any and all tricks in the book to increase revenue, including tax dodging/sheltering, lobbying against their citizens' interest, using non-union shops (see the Canadians' discussion below), etc. That is, Target is doing everything it can to gain the upper hand against consumers/employees/labor, etc, in the old ""labor vs capital"" battle.   To ask individuals to adhere to a stricter set of marketplace rules is to put ""us"" (or any individual) at a disadvantage in said marketplace. Consumers need to be able to be just as ruthless in the marketplace as corporations. In this case, Target screwed up and thus pays for it. If Target found a perfectly legal loophole, it's guaranteed they would drive the whole ship through it. I mean, there's a reason corporate taxes rates are abysmally low.   The argument I would accept is this: One could argue that the consumers, by using the gift card deal in a way that deliberately violates the terms of the contract of said card, are committing fraud. That's fine- I have no problem with saying it's wrong on that technicality. However, economics has been called the ""dismal science"" for a reason- there's no morality in a marketplace." "They weren't supposed to buy gift cards, and the coupon had a limit on it.  These people bought gift cards and photocopied the coupon to get as much as $5,000 in free Target gift cards.  That can't happen if you play by the rules.  But I don't care, I wasn't being 100% dictionary-definition literal with my use of the word ""cheating.""" "Understand that buying a Starbucks gift card at the grocery store to receive 6% back on your coffee rather than 6% back on your groceries is an exploit of a flaw in the benefits program, not a feature.  It's definitely not a blanket yes or no answer, the only way to find out is to try. Separately, I don't know why you would find this ""concerning.""  This will vary greatly between merchants and cards.  There will always be new points churning exploits, they don't last forever and you can't expect every customer service rep to be well versed in methods employed to juice cardmember programs. Hell, a number of years ago one person figured out that he could buy rolls of $1 coins from the US treasury with free shipping and no additional fees.  This guy was literally buying thousands of dollars of cash each month to deposit and pay his credit card bill; completely against the terms of the treasury program for distributing the $1 coins.  A number of people had their cards and points/cash back revoked for that one." "It is likely a scam.  In fact the whole mystery shopping ""job"" may be a scam.  There is a Snopes page about cashier's check scams, as well as a US government page which specifically mentions mystery shopping as a scam angle. As for how the scam works, from the occ.gov site I just linked: However, cashier’s checks lately have become an attractive vehicle for fraud when used for payments to consumers. Although, the amount of a cashier’s check quickly becomes ""available"" for withdrawal by the consumer after the consumer deposits the check, these funds do not belong to the consumer if the check proves to be fraudulent. It may take weeks to discover that a cashier’s check is fraudulent. In the meantime, the consumer may have irrevocably wired the funds to a scam artist or otherwise used the funds—only to find out later, when the fraud is detected—that the consumer owes the bank the full amount of the cashier’s check that had been deposited. It is somewhat unusual in that, from what you say, there has been no attempt thus far to get money back.  However, your sister-in-law may have received that info separately, or received it as part of her mystery shopping job but didn't mention it to you with regard to this check.  Typically the scam involves telling the recipient to transfer money to a third party (e.g., by buying goods as a mystery shopper, or via wire transfer to ""reimburse"" someone associated with a sham operation).  By the time the cashier's check is revealed as fraudulent, the victim has already transferred away his/her own real money. It's probably worth taking the check to your or her bank and asking them about it.  They may have more info.  Also, banks usually want to know about scams like this because, in the long run, they accumulate data on them and share that with law enforcement and can eventually catch some of the scammers. Edit: Just to help anyone who may be reading this later.  The letter you added confirms it is absolutely a scam.  My boss was once contacted via a scam operation very similar to this.  The huge red flag (in addition to others already mentioned) is that you are being ""given"" a check for over $2000, of which only $25 is purportedly for actual mystery shopping and $285 is payment for you, the mystery shopper.  The whole rest of the $2000+ amount is for you to wire to ""another Mystery/Secret Shopper in order for them to complete their assignment"".  They are giving you $2000 to give to someone else who is supposedly another one of their own employees/contractors.  Ask yourself what sane business would conduct their operations in this way.  If you work at a law office, or a hamburger stand, or a school, or anything you like, does your boss ever say ""Here is your paycheck for $5000.  I know you only earned $1000, but I'm just going to give you the whole $5000, and you're supposed to use $4000 of it to pay your coworker Joe his wages.""  No.  There is no reason to do that except that the ""other mystery shopper"" is actually the scammer." "Most people on Reddit don't seem to ""get"" any system they're talking about, and this is the perfect example.   The patent was approved before the sale. It takes about 2 years to get a non-controversial patent in the US. Maybe they were in talks for this acquisition 2 1/2 years ago, but that's somewhat unlikely given the timelines for most acquisitions.   It would be so far and away more valuable to Amazon to prevent a shopper at a competitor from seeing that they could get the same product for 30% less on Amazon than to ever prevent someone in their ""forthcoming brick and mortar empire"" from doing it.  As far as a brick and mortar store goes groceries is also a very low margin one. Yes they picked the high end market that would be better than your average Safeway, Bi-Lo, or Walmart, but it's also a relatively small one compared to the alternatives and I think it's dumb to expect that to make a difference. Groceries are the ""final frontier"" for Amazon as far as making sure they can deliver anything, anywhere, today. It's basically having cold storage warehouses in every metro area without having to build them.   Edit: yeah, there was a missed double negative there. Obviously it's in their interest to keep *other businesses* from preventing people in their stores from realizing they can get things cheaper on Amazon." "Here I thought I would not ever answer a question on this site and boom first ten minutes.  First and foremost I am in the automotive industry, specifically one of our core competencies is finance department management consulting and the sales process both for the sale of the care as well  as  the financial transaction. First and foremost new vehicle gross profits are nowhere near 20% for the dealership.  In an entry level vehicle like say a Toyota Corolla there is only a  few hundreds of dollars in markup from invoice to M.S.R.P.  There is also something called holdback that dealers get for achieving certain goals such as sales volume. These are usually pretty easy to hit. As a matter of fact I have never heard of a dealer not getting the hold back on a deal.  This hold back is there to cover overhead for the car, the cost of getting it ready to sell, having a lot to park it on, making it ready for delivery, offset some of the cost of sales labor  etc.  Most dealerships consider the holdback portion of the invoice to not be part of the deal when it comes to  negotiations.  Certain brands such as KIA and Chrysler have something called ""Dealer Cash"" these payouts are usually stair stepped according to volume and vary by dealer, location, past history, how the guys at the factory feel that day and any number of combinations.  Then there is CSI or Customer Service Index payments, these payments are usually made every 1/4 are on the Parts Statement not the Sales Doc and while they effect the dealers bottom line they almost never affect the sales managers or sales persons payroll so they are not considered a part of the cost of the car.  They are however extremely important to  the dealer and this is  why after you have your new car they want you to bring in your survey for a free oil change or something.  IF you are going to give a bad survey they want to throw it away and not send it in, if you are going to give a good survey they want to  make sure you fill it out correctly.  This is because lets say they ask you on a scale of 1-10 how was your sales person and you put a 9 that is a failing score. Dumb I know but that is how every factory CSI score system I have seen worked.  According to NADA the average New Vehicle gross profit including hold back and dealer cash is around $1000.00.  No where near 20%.  Dealerships would love it if they made 20% on your new F250 Supercrew Diesel at around $50,000.00.  One last thing there is something on the invoice called Wholesale Finance Reserve.  This is the amount of money the factory forwards to the Dealership to offset the cost of financing vehicle on the floor plan so they can have it for you to look at before you buy.  This is usually equal to around 3 months of interest and while you might buy a vehicle that has been on the lot for 2 days they have plenty that have been there much longer so this equals out in a fair to middling run store. General Mangers that know what they are doing can make this really pad their net profit to statement. On to incentives, there are basically 3 kinds.  Cash to customer in the form of rebates, Dealer Cash in the form of incentives to dealerships based on volume or the undesirability of a vehicle, and incentive rates or Subvented leases.  The rates are pretty self explanatory as they advertised as such (example 0% for 60 Months).  Subvented Leased are harder to figure out and usually not disclosed as they are hard to explain and also a source of increased profit.  Subvented leases are usually powered by lower cost of money called a money factor (think of it as an interest rate) that is discounted from the lease company or a subsidized residual.  Subsidized residuals are virtually verboten on domestic vehicles due to their poor resell values.  A subsidized residual works like this, you buy a Toyota Camry and the ALG (automotive lease guide) says it has a residual at 36 months of 48%.  Well Toyota Motor Credit says we will give you a subvented residual of 60% basically subsidizing a 2% increase in residual.  Since they do not expect to be able to sell the car at auction for that amount they have to set aside the 2% as a future expense.  What does this mean to you, it means a lower payment.  Also a good rule of thumb if you are told a money factor by your salesperson to figure out what the interest rate is just multiply it by 2400.  So if a money factor is give of .00345 you know your actual interest rate is a little bit lower than 8.28% (illustration purposes only money factors are much lower than that right now). So how does this save you money well a lease is basically calculated by multiplying the MSRP by the residual and then subtracting that amount from the ""Capitalized Cost"" which is the Price paid for the car - trade in + payoff + TT&L-Rebate-Down Payment.  That is the depreciation.  Then you divide that number by the term of the loan and you have the depreciation amount.  So if you have 20K CC and 10K R your D = 10K / 36 = 277 monthly payment.  For the rest of the monthly payment you add (I think been a long time since I did this with out a computer) the Residual plus the CC for $30,000 * MF of .00345 = 107 for a total payment of 404 ish.  This is not completely accurate but you can use it to  make sure a salesperson/finance person is not trying to do one thing and  say another as so often happens on leases. 0% how the  heck do  they make money at that, well its simple.  First in 2008 the Fed made all the ""Captive"" lenders into actual banks instead of whatever they were before.  So now they have access to the Fed's discounting window which with todays monetary policies make it almost free money.  In the past these lenders had to go through all kinds of hoops to raise funds and  securitize loans even for super prime credit.  Those days are essentially over.  Now they get their short term money just like Bank of America does.  Eventually they still bundle these loans and sell them.  So in the short term YOU pay for the 0% by giving up part or all of your rebate.  This is really important DO NOT GIVE up your rebate for 0% unless it makes sense to do so.  When you can get the money at 2.5% and get a $7000.00 rebate (customer cash) on that F250 or 0% take the cash.  First of all make the finance guy/gal show you the the difference in total cost they can do do this using the federal truth in lending disclosures on a finance contract.  Secondly how long will you keep the vehicle?  If you come out ahead by say $1500 by taking the lower rate but you usually trade out every three years this is not going to work.  Also and this is important if you are involved in a situation with a total loss like a stolen car or even worse a bad wreck before the breakeven point you lose that price break.  Finally on judging what is right for you, just know that future value of the vehicle on for resell or trade-in will take into effect all of these past rebates and value the car accordingly.  So if a vehicle depreciates 20% a year for the first 3 years the starting point will essentially be $7000.00 less than you actually paid,  using rough numbers. How does this help the dealers and car companies?  Well while a dealer struggles to make money on new cars the factory makes all of their money on the  new cars and the new car financing.  While your individual loan might lose money that money is offset by the loss of rebate and I think Ford does actually pay Ford Motor Credit Company the difference in the rate.  The most important thing is what happens later FMCC now has 2500 loans with people with perfect credit.  They can now use those loans to budle with people with not so perfect credit that they financed at 12%-18% and buy that money with interest rates in the 2%-3% range.  Well that is a hell of a lot of profit.  'How does it help the dealership, well the more super prime credit they have in their portfolio the more subprime credit the banks will buy for them.  This means they have more loans originated that are more profitable for them.  Say you come in for the 0% but have 590 credit score, they get FMCC to buy the deal because they have a good portfolio and you win because the dealer gets to buy the money at say 9% and sell it to you at say 12% making the spread.  You win there because you actually qualified for a rate of around 18% with a subprime company like Santander or Capital One (yes that capital one) so  you save a ton on your overall cost of the car. Any dealership that is half way well run makes as much or money in the finance and insurance office than the rest of the dealership.  When you factor in what a good F&I Director can do to get deals done with favorable terms that really goes up.  Think about that the guys sitting a desk drinking coffee making more than the  service department guys all put together. Well that was long winded but there I broke down the car business for whoever read this far." "There's a concept in retail called a ""loss leader"", and essentially it means that a store will sell an item intentionally at a loss as a way of bringing in business in the hope that while consumers are in the store taking advantage of the discounted item, they'll make other purchases to make up for the loss and generate an overall profit. Many times it only makes sense to carry items that enhance the value of something else the store sells.  Stores pay big money to study consumer behaviors and preferences in order to understand what items are natural fits for each other and the best ways to market them.   A good example of what you're talking about is the fact that many grocery stores carry private label products that sell for higher margins, and they'll stock them alongside the name brands that cost much more.  As a consequence (and since consumers often don't see a qualitative difference between store brands and name brands much of the time to rationalize spending more), the store's own brands sell better. I hope this helps. Good luck!" Thank you for the summary! I live in a small city where it would never take more than 10 minutes to walk into the store and get your refund, so I don't see a huge advantage to this. Maybe for bigger and busier stores. Because your friend isn't going to like the ~2% charge they have to pay to the credit card company on the $10,000 purchase. Credit card companies make money off of transactions. The cardholder normally doesn't pay any transaction fees (and in fact can make a profit via rewards), but the merchant has to pay a certain amount of money to the credit card company for the transaction. In this case, the apartment owners ate the charge, likely because it was easier for them to send a check than to refund the cost of the fee through the credit card company. If you started doing this a lot to take advantage of this, I would imagine they would get smart and refuse your business (it'll be pretty obvious what you're doing if you're not signing any leases). "Here's another rational reason: Discount. This typically works only in smaller stores, where you're talking directly to the owners, but it is sometimes possible to negotiate a few percent off the price when paying by check, since otherwise they'd have to give a few percent to the credit card company. (Occasionally the sales reps at larger stores have the authority to cut this deal, but it's far less common.) Not worth worrying about on small items, but if you're making a large purchase (a bedroom suite, for example) it can pay for lunch. And sometimes the store's willing to give you more discount than that, simply because with checks they don't have to worry about chargebacks or some of the other weirdnesses that can occur in credit card processing. Another reason: Nobody's very likely to steal you check number and try to write themselves a second check or otherwise use it without authorization. It's just too easy to steal credit card info these days to make printing checks worth the effort. But, in the end, the real answer is that there's no rational reason not to use checks. So it takes you a few seconds more to complete the transaction. What were you going to do with those seconds that makes them valuable? Especially if they're seconds that the store is spending bagging your purchase, so there's no lost time... and the effort really isn't all that different from signing the credit card authorization. Quoting Dean Inge: ""There are two kinds of fool. One says 'this is old, and therefore good.' The other says 'this is new, and therefore better.'""" Ebates is great for getting a little extra discount once you find what you are looking for.  You can usually get about 2%-4% off from places like Dell, Staples, Home Depot, etc. What I do is do my research/shopping first and then add the item to the cart, then head over to Ebates and click through back to the store I was just on, and then purchase the item.  Ebates will track the purchase and send you a check about once every 3 months.  It is not much and not reflected in the price immediately but still it is a savings of some sort. "Of course Goldman Sacs sells the bonds to the fed without charging a commission. They are  well known for their compassionate altruism. Just kidding! Of course they charge. The Federal Reserve Act specifies that the Federal Reserve buy and sell Treasury securities only in the ""open market."" The Federal Reserve conducts its purchases through ""Primary Dealers"" - usually Goldman Sacs-these btw are older securities. The new ones such as the fed has been gobbling up lately are sold at auction.  This supposedly supports the central banks independence in conducting monetary policy but still doesn't seem right. But then the fact that we have a central bank at all instead of the U.S. Treasury printing the money, doesn't seem quite right either now does it?"