To use a line of credit or withdraw from savings
"No one can really answer this for you.  It is a matter of personal preference and the details of your situation.  There are some really smart people on here, when placed in your exact situation, would do completely different things.  Personal finance is overall, personal. If it was me, I'd never borrow money in retirement.  If I had the cash, I'd use it to help fund the purchase.  If I didn't, I simply wouldn't.  For me wealth retention (in your case) is surprisingly more about behavior than math (even though I am a math guy).  You are simply creating a great deal of risk at a season in your life with a diminished ability to recover from negative events.  In my opinion you are inviting ""tales of woe"" to be part of your future if you borrow. Others would disagree with me.  They would point to the math and show how you would be much better off on borrowing instead of pulling out of investments provided a sufficient return on your nest egg.  They may even have a case as you might have to pay taxes on money pulled out magnifying the difference in net income on borrowing versus pulling out in a lump sum.  Here in the US, the money you pulled out would be taxed at the highest marginal rate.  To help with a down payment of 50K, you might have to pull out 66,500 to pay the taxes and have enough for the down payment. The third option is to not help with a down payment or to help them in a different way.  Perhaps giving them a few hundred per month for two years to help with their mortgage payment.  Maybe watch their kids some to reduce day care costs or help with home improvements so they can buy a lower price home.  Those are all viable options.  Perhaps the child is not ready to buy a home. Having said all that it really depends on your situation.  Say your sitting on 5 million in investments, your pensions is sufficient to have some disposable income, and they are asking for a relatively small amount.  Then pull the money out and don't be concerned.  You nest egg will quickly recover the money."
High-interest checking / savings accounts are often a better choice than CDs today for three reasons.  At the time this question was asked, CDs were probably a better answer as rates were much higher.  Since CD rates have plummeted in recent years, and because a CD is only semi-liquid, i.e., even if you ladder CDs, an early withdrawal fee often means foregoing the interest on that particular CD which you withdrew. 1.) On the other hand, high-interest checking and/or savings accounts are very viable options these days. There are several options available that earn ~1%+ APY. It's not quite that simple, and there are a few gotchas: If you run into the balance cap problem, of course nothing is stopping you from having multiple accounts across different banks. 2.) The high-interest bank accounts are fully liquid able to be liquidated at anytime (without foregoing interest). 3.) A minor benefit is that the high-yield savings account is low maintenance whereas CD laddering is pretty hands on and may require physical trips to your bank.  (If you know of a way to automate the process more, please comment or edit.) You need to know that the loan will cost you additional money every month. You need to know how you are going to pay that overhead in addition to what you're already paying. The best answer is to reduce your spending to build up a reserve you feel comfortable with, and then NOT spend that reserve except in emergencies. If you need a short-term answer, I'd suggest borrowing from relatives. Failing that, I'd suggest talking to a bank about establishing a line of credit but NOT drawing upon it until and unless you have Absolutely No Other Choice. That gives you a preapproved option when you need it at (usually) a much, much better rate than credit cards... without costing you anything until and unless you actually do need the money, and (if you don't have it set up to kick in automatically on overdrafts) without making it so easy to get to that you're tempted to use it before you must. "Or here's a better idea: don't have a credit card at all.  They offer no real benefits and plenty of dangers.  Don't take my word for it, though: ""I tell every student class I get, high school students, university   students, you know, they'd be better off if they never used credit   cards""   - Warren Buffet (Net worth: $44 billion) Before anyone says anything about using credit cards ""wisely"" and getting the rewards points, I can save 15% on many kinds of large purchases ($100+) using cash.  You won't find a reward system offering that level of incentive.  Two recent examples of cash discounts: After I bought my house I needed a lawnmower and a my wife wanted a new vacuum cleaner.  Went to Lowe's and found the ones we wanted.  They were $600 combined.  Found the manager, stuck five $100 bills in his hand and said ""this is what I have, and that is what I need.""  16.6% saved. Bought my daugher a bed recently. Queen box spring and mattress were on sale for $300 but it didn't come with the rails, which they wanted $50 extra for.  Went to the bank and got $320 in cash from the bank, walked in, set it in his hand and said, ""I need the bed box spring and rails, tax included.""  He replied, ""Sorry man, I can't.  I'm already taking a loss on..."" Then he stopped mid sentence, looked down at the cash again and said ""Hold on. Let me ask my manager."" Manager walks over, guy explains what I said, manager looks at the cash and says ""Make it happen""  14.3 % saved. As for purchasing a home, it is a myth that you need a credit score to obtain a mortgage for a home.  Lending institutions can do manual underwriting instead of just relying on your credit score.  It is a little tougher to do and banks usually have stricter requirements, but based on the information the OP has given in this and other questions, I think he can easily meet them." The way I usually make this decision is to answer the following question: Do I think that I can earn a better   return on my savings than the interest   rate I would get on the loan? Yes= Get a loan No= Use the savings If you have your savings in a fixed income investment like a CD or bond, then it is just simple math to answer the question, for more volatile investments like stocks you just have to make an educated guess based on the direction of the markets and past performance. Thanks for the link to the Financial Consumer Agency of Canada, @ChrisW.Rea. It explained in clear terms that I can withdraw money from and transfer money to the line of credit any time I want. The only monthly payment needed is the minimum payment. And yes, it may have a term after which all remaining principal + interest must be paid back in full. Similar to a credit card, as you pay off your line of credit, you can   draw on it again, up to the limit you are allowed. However, a key   difference between a line of credit and a credit card is that with a   line of credit there is no interest-free grace period. You will have   to pay interest on the amount you borrow from the day you take the   money out. You will receive a monthly statement that shows the amount that you   owe on your line of credit. You must make at least a minimum payment   on that balance every month. (n.b. Specific terms and conditions for lines of credit vary from institution to institution.) Some already mentioned that you could pay with your savings and use the credit card as an emergency buffer. However, if you think there is a reasonable chance that your creditcard gets revoked and that you need cash quickly, here is a simple alternative: Well, it really doesn't make sense to pay for either in cash. For these purchases, unless you're super wealthy, you won't be paying it in full. If you were to pay in full, then I don't see any practical point to withdraw that money in cash. I've read the answers and respect the thought behind them.  I'd like to focus on (a) the magnitude of the emergency, and (b) the saving rate of the people affected. 3-6 months is interesting. It's enough not just to fix the car, repair the A/C, etc, but more than enough to lose one's job and recover. (Let's avoid the debate of how long it take to find a job, no amount of 'emergency savings' can solve that.) If one is spending below their means, any unexpected expense that can paid off within, say 3 months, doesn't really need to tap emergency funds (EF). And, at some level of income and retirement savings, one can more easily run a much lower EF.  My own situation - I had 9mo worth of expenses saved as EF. We were living well beneath our means, and I was looking at the difference between our mortgage (6%+) vs bank interest (near 0%). I used the funds to pay down principal, refinanced to a lower rate, and at the same closing got a HELOC. The psychology of this is tough, it then appears that for simple expenses, I'd be borrowing from my HELOC. On the other hand, the choice was between a known cost, the $5K/year the money was costing by sitting there plus the lower rate by going to a non-jumbo loan at the time, vs the risk of using 3% money from the HELOC. In the end, the HELOC was never tapped for more than a small portion of its line, and I never regretted the decision. Ironically, it's the person who isn't saving much that need the EF most. If you are a saver, you need to judge how long it would take to replace the funds.  I offer the above not as a recommendation, but as devil's advocate to the other excellent advice here. All cash flows are a choice, $100 going here, can't go there. I'd slip in a warning that one should capture matching 401(k) contributions, if offered, before funding the EF. And pay down any high interest debt. After that, the decision of how liquid to be is a personal choice, what worked for my wife and me may not be for everyone. this post offers excellent pointers that can help you choose a suitable line of credit you can use for financing your day-to-day expenses. please help up promote it to all your friends especially to those who are planning to apply for and get secured and prepaid credit cards! There are two or three issues here. One is, how quickly can you get cash out of your investments? If you had an unexpected expense, if you suddenly needed more cash than you have on hand, how long would it take to get money out of your Scott Trade account or wherever it is? I have a TD Ameritrade account which is pretty similar, and it just takes a couple of days to get money out. I'm hard pressed to think of a time when I literally needed a bunch of cash TODAY with no advance warning. What sudden bills is one likely to have? A medical bill, perhaps. But hey, just a few weeks ago I had to go to the emergency room with a medical problem, and it's not like they demanded cash on the table before they'd help me. I just got the bill, maybe 3 weeks after the event. I've never decided to move and then actually moved 2 days later. These things take SOME planning. Etc. Second, how much risk are you willing to tolerate? If you have your money in the stock market, the market could go down just as you need the cash. That's not even a worst case scenario, extreme scenario. After all, if the economy gets bad, the stock market could go down, and the same fact could result in your employer laying you off. That said, you could reduce this risk by keeping some of your money in a low-risk investment, like some high-quality bonds. Third, you want to have cash to cover the more modest, routine expenses. Like make sure you always have enough cash on hand to pay the rent or mortgage, buy food, and so on. And fourth, you want to keep a cushion against bookkeeping mistakes. I've had twice in my life that I've overdrawn a checking account, not because I was broke, but because I messed up my records and thought I had more money in the account than I really did. It's impossible to give exact numbers without knowing a lot about your income and expenses. But for myself: I keep a cushion of $1,000 to $1,5000 in my checking account, on top of all regular bills that I know I'll have to pay in the next month, to cover modest unexpected expenses and mistakes. I pay most of my bills by credit card for convenience --and pay the balance in full when I get the bill so I don't pay interest -- so I don't need a lot of cushion. I used to keep 2 to 3 months pay in an account invested in bonds and very safe stocks, something that wouldn't lose much value even in bad times. Since my daughter started college I've run this down to less than 1 months pay, and instead of replacing that money I'm instead putting my spare money into more general stocks, which is admittedly riskier. So between the two accounts I have a little over 2 months pay, which I think is low, but as I say, I'm trying to get my kids through college so I've run down my savings some. I think if I had more than 6 months pay in easily-liquidated assets, then unless I expected to need a bunch of cash for something, buying a new house or some such, I'd be transferring that to a retirement account with tax advantages. I see three ways to do this. Note that I kept saying interest. I assumed for this answer you were only considering money being saved in a savings account. Money that is to be invested for the long term (college fund, retirement) have much different rules for contributions, use, deductibility, age rules: that they would tend not to be mixed within the same account. "Many of my friends turn to me for financial advice, and here's what I always tell them because it's super effective for me... 1) I opened an online bank account with Scottrade for which I did not request a card or checks. I set up direct deposit straight to that account. It would be a complicated pain to take money out of that savings. The only time I did so was to buy my house (which was the purpose of the savings) and it involved a wire-transfer and printing of the form to fill out and faxing it in, etc. I have continued to use the account to save for my second house. I basically completely forget that the account is even there or that I am ""missing"" a large chunk of my money. 2) It is VERY important to actually budget for spending money to continue to spend on impulse items. Basically allow yourself to spend money on yourself but in a controlled way. Decide a specific amount that you want to put in a separate account that is just for you to spend to your hearts content and have it direct deposit. I find, (and Dave Ramsey also encourages this) that when I know how much money I am going to blow, I feel much more in control and it causes me to not get carried away and blow more than I realized. Take this a step further... Decide specifically what you want to buy for yourself, and label the account accordingly. For example, I decided back in March that I wanted to buy an Xbox One for when Star Wars Battlefront comes out this November. I calculated exactly how much money I would need at that time, figured how many paychecks I would receive until then, and did the math to determine exactly how much I need to direct deposit into an account JUST for saving to buy the Xbox and game. I use CapFed, and I can actually rename the account as it is displayed, so I called it ""Xbox fund"". Seeing that title, a reminder of what I really want"" encourages me to not touch it. What is your goal behind wanting to save money better? What are you saving for? Label your account accordingly so you don't just see it as money, but as progress." "Generally speaking, yes, you can withdraw cash from an ATM using your credit card. However, this is usually a terrible deal: Also, keep in mind that on top of the limit set by the ATM of the amount of cash you can withdraw, the credit card company also has its own ""cash advance credit limit"" that is usually lower than your regular credit limit for purchases." If his credit union participates in the national Co-Op, then he will be able to withdraw money at any participating credit union. He could just bring cash a check out in his name, just like he would at home. Withdrawing from your 401(k) may include a 10% withdrawal penalty. There are ways to avoid the withdrawal penalty for early disbursements. The idea is to reduce your interest expense by leveraging free loans (0% APR purchases). This will help you pay down your debt more.  If you have 0% APR on purchases, you can make purchases on things you already buy. Then use that money towards other debt, while making monthly payments on the 0% APR card. This way, you pay off the credit card before the 0% APR changes. You can then rinse and repeat on another 0% APR card offer. If your credit score is 800, you can do this multiple times. Citi Simplicity gives you 18 months 0% APR. Chase Slate and Chase Freedom gives you 15 months 0% APR. Others typically give you 12 months or less.