Better rate for investment between CD or savings
Excel has two functions you can use: Your question has the CD with a APR and the savings account that mentions both APR and APY. So convert them both to APY to compare them. The savings account (2.27 APY) will return more money based on the numbers in your question (2.27% vs 1.56%) The previous part was the math part of the answer. The following takes into other considerations. For this case the Savings account will return a larger amount of money if the conditions don't change. The CD rate is guaranteed, but the savings account could change every business day. The savings rate could go up, or down. If you expect the savings account rate to rain higher than the CD you might not want to lock into the CD. If you expect the savings rate will drop then get the CD. Of course  there are penalties if you cash in the CD early.
It depends on the relative rates and relative risk. Ignore the deduction. You want to compare the rates of the investment and the mortgage, either both after-tax or both before-tax. Your mortgage costs you 5% (a bit less after-tax), and prepayments effectively yield a guaranteed 5% return. If you can earn more than that in your IRA with a risk-free investment, invest. If you can earn more than that in your IRA while taking on a degree of risk that you are comfortable with, invest. If not, pay down your mortgage. See this article: Mortgage Prepayment as Investment: For example, the borrower with a 6% mortgage who has excess cash flow would do well to use it to pay down the mortgage balance if the alternative is investment in assets that yield 2%. But if two years down the road the same assets yield 7%, the borrower can stop allocating excess cash flow to the mortgage and start accumulating financial assets. Note that he's not comparing the relative risk of the investments. Paying down your mortgage has a guaranteed return. You're talking about CDs, which are low risk, so your comparison is simple. If your alternative investment is stocks, then there's an element of risk that it won't earn enough to outpace the mortgage cost. Update: hopefully this example makes it clearer: For example, lets compare investing $100,000 in repayment of a 6% mortgage with investing it in a fund that pays 5% before-tax, and taxes are deferred for 10 years. For the mortgage, we enter 10 years for the period, 3.6% (if that is the applicable rate) for the after tax return, $100,000 as the present value, and we obtain a future value of $142,429. For the alternative investment, we do the same except we enter 5% as the return, and we get a future value of $162,889. However, taxes are now due on the $62,889 of interest, which reduces the future value to $137,734. The mortgage repayment does a little better. So if your marginal tax rate is 30%, you have $10k extra cash to do something with right now, mortgage rate is 5%, IRA CD APY is 1%, and assuming retirement in 30 years: If you want to plug it into a spreadsheet, the formula to use is (substitute your own values): (Note the minus sign before the cash amount.) Make sure you use after tax rates for both so that you're comparing apples to apples. Then multiply your IRA amount by (1-taxrate) to get the value after you pay future taxes on IRA withdrawals. I would put about a month's worth of expenses in the highest-paying savings account that you find convenient to access. For the rest, I recommend Ally's High-Yield CDs — specifically, the 5-year option. Normally 5 years would be way too long to commit short-term savings to a CD. However, the Ally CDs allow you to break them for a penalty of only two months worth of interest. If you look at the graph below (from when the rates were 3.09% APY), you can see the effective interest rate at every possible time you break the CD early. Doing the math, if you can keep your savings in the account for at least four months, it will outperform any other current FDIC-backed investment that I am aware of, for the length of time the money was invested.  (credit: MyMoneyBlog) I'm going to make an educated guess on #1. Money markets invest in bonds with a very short time to maturity. An MMA at a bank will be invested in government bonds. Yields on these bonds are really low right now. Thus the yield on that MMA is going to be pretty low. When you make a deposit in a savings account, the bank uses some of that money to lend back out to its customers in the form of car loans, mortgages, etc. These rates are higher, so the bank is willing to pay you a bit more than the yield MMA so they can use your money for these loans. For #2, your time window is short, so there aren't really a lot of options for you. Keeping your money where it is will actually cost you money in fees. You can do as I suggested in my comment above: close the current savings account that's hitting you with fees and open a (free) high yield savings account. You might get 1.1%. If you average $60k in the account over the next 6 months you'll earn $200-250 after taxes. You didn't ask about CDs, but lately shorter term CDs are paying less than savings accounts. Going out to a year will get you just above the rate on a high yield savings account; two years just a little more. These are outside your goal window, so they aren't an option for you. While I don't disagree with the other answers as far as CD laddering goes (at least in principle), three months CDs are currently getting much lower rates than money market accounts, at least according to http://www.bankrate.com.  A savings account is also more liquid than CDs. Bonds are another option, and they can generally be liquidated quickly on the secondary market.  However, they can go down in value if interest rates rise (actually this is true of CDs as well--there is a secondary market, though  I believe only for brokerage CDs?). Bottom line, A high yield savings account is likely your best best.  As others noted, you should think of your emergency fund as savings, not investment. "Shem - I recommend looking into online banks or credit unions. I know ally has around ~0.8% rate on their savings accounts NOT MMS. Meaning you don't need a ~$2,500 minimum balance so your money is COMPLETELY liquid. CD's and MMC/S are worth next to nothing, and if you ask me are pointless with the minimum balances they require. Ally also reimburses you for all ATM withdrawal fees, meaning you have complete access to all your money, with next to no minimum, with at least some % back that is comparable to CD rates currently offered. CD's are around ~1.8-2% with tens of thousands of dollars (50-75k+) which isn't worth keeping ""liquid"",if you would consider CD's liquid (because you can withdraw on a penalty or have laddered CD's), unless you're rich and that's your emergency fund. If I were you I would look into a retirement account, and saving what you need to in an Emergency Fund. Check out a 401(k), Traditional IRA or Roth IRA. They each have their benefits and you need to assess your financial situation before picking one. I would recommend spending a great deal of time researching this before making your decision, because switching from one to another could cost you, depending on your choice. This is, of course, if you live in the U.S." How much money do you have in your money market fund and what in your mind is the purpose of this money? If it is your six-months-of-living-expenses emergency fund, then you  might want to consider bank CDs in addition to bond funds as an alternative to  your money-market fund investment. Most (though not necessarily all, so be sure to check) bank CDs can be cashed in at any time with a penalty of three months of interest, and so unless you anticipate being laid off very soon, you might get a slightly better rate of interest, FDIC insurance (which mutual funds do not have), and with any luck you may never have to break a CD and lose the interest. Building a ladder of CDs with one maturing each month might be another way to reduce the risk of loss.  On the other hand, bond mutual funds are a risky bet now because your investment will lose value if interest rate go up, and as JohnFx points out, interest rates have nowhere to go but up.  Finally, the amount of the investment is something that you might want to consider before making changes. If you have $50K put away as your six-month fund, you are talking of $500 versus $350 per annum in changing to a riskier investment with a 1% yield from a safer investment with a 0.7% yield. Whether bragging rights at neighborhood parties are worth the trouble is something for you to decide. "Your objectives are contradictory and/or not possible. Eliminating the non-taxable objective: You could divide the $100K in 5 increments, making a ""CD ladder"" $25K in 3mo CD (or savings a/c) $25K in 6 mo CD $25K in 9mo CD $25K in 1 yr CD or similar structure (6mo also works well) Every maturing CD you are able to access cash and/or invest in another longest maturity CD, and earn a higher rate of interest. This plan also works well to plan for future interest rates hikes. If you are forced to access (sell CD's)  ALL the $$$ at any time, you will only lose accrued interest, none of the principal.  All FDIC guaranteed. If non-taxable is the highest priority, ""invest"" in a tax-free money market fund....see Vanguard Funds. You will not have FDIC guarantee." "This answer is to supplement the answers about what CD laddering is and what its benefits are. I'm going to talk about its risks. CD ladders are subject to risk. They are not subject to very much credit risk and investment risk (they're federally insured! Barring the dissolution of the United States government as we know it, you will get all your money back!). However, they are subject to inflation risk and a little bit of interest rate risk. A CD is basically a promise for a certain amount of money after a certain amount of time. Inflation risk happens when there's inflation and the money that you've been promised isn't worth as much anymore, because everything's gotten more expensive. Interest rate risk happens when you buy a CD in a very low interest rate environment (like, oh, the year 2010) and rates subsequently rise. You might have been somewhat better off waiting for rates to rise before buying the CD. (Also, if you were to try and re-sell it, you would get an inferior price - enough to make up for the interest rate difference.) Note that interest rates tend to rise if there is a significant amount of inflation, so these two risks go together. Interest rate risk and inflation risk are higher for longer-term CDs (at least right now) because there's more opportunity for inflation and interest rates to rise. 2010 has been marked by the extraordinarily low interest rate environment which prevails, and the Federal Reserve has announced that it is trying to bring about a higher rate of inflation (you may have heard something about a ""second round of quantitative easing""). A quick look at interest rates show that 2-5 year CDs yield about 1.50% these days. You could, alternatively, get a savings account that yields 1.4%, preserves your liquidity, and will raise the rate it pays you on savings in the event that inflation and interest rates rise (or, if they don't raise it, you can move the account, unlike a CD). In summary, as of right now (October 2010), fixed-income investments like CDs don't pay you very much and have elevated levels of risk, especially for long-term investment. This is one of the worst times possible to invest in a CD ladder." CD laddering is funding a few CDs in succession. For instance: for 6 months, each month you open up a 6 month CD (rather than  opening up one big one). Doing this will give you monthly interest payments as each month a CD will reach maturity (after 6 months). At that time you can choose to roll over the principal in a new CD and keep the interest, reinvest all, etc etc etc. You still get the benefits (higher rates) that CDs offer, but with greater flexibility and more frequent interest payouts. The only downside that I'm aware off is that you may end up with a slightly lower overall interest rate. There are some high-yield savings accounts out there that might get you close to 1 percent. Shorter term CDs might also serve you well here- rates are above 1 percent, even with 1-2 year terms: http://www.nerdwallet.com/rates/cds/best-cd-rates/ If you need the money in the short-term, you want to invest in something fairly safe.  These include saving accounts, CDs, and money market funds from someplace like Vanguard.  The last two might give you a slightly better return than the local branch of a national bank. For the period 1950 to 2009, if you adjust the S&P 500 for inflation and account for dividends, the average annual return comes out to exactly 7.0%. Source. Currently inflation is around 2%.  So your 2% APY is a 0% real return where the stock market return is 7%.  I.e. on average, stocks have a return that is higher by 7.   If you mix in bonds, 70% stocks to 30% bonds, your real returns will drop to around 5.5%, but you are safer in individual years (bonds often have good years when stocks have bad years).   We're making a bit of a false dichotomy here.  We're talking about returns on stocks in retirement accounts versus returns on CDs in regular accounts.  You can buy stocks in regular accounts and it is legally possible to have a CD in a retirement account.  So you can get bankruptcy protection and tax advantages with a CD. If the savings rate is the same as the loan rate, mathematically it doesn't make any difference whether you pay down the loan more and save less or vice versa. However, if the loan rate is higher than the savings rate it's better to pay it down as fast as possible. The chart below compares paying down the loan and saving equally (the gradual scenario), versus paying down the loan quickly at 2 x $193 and then saving 2 x $193.  The savings rate, for illustration, is 2%. Paying quickly pays down the loan completely by month 51.  On the other hand, in the gradual scheme the loan can't be paid down (with the savings) until month 54, which then leaves 3 months less for saving.  In conclusion, it's better to pay down the higher rate loan first.  Practically speaking, it may be useful to have some savings available. "With a ""normal"" CD you can't, but some banks do seem to offer CDs where you can.  For instance the ""variable-rate CD"" at USAA allows ongoing deposits.  I also found a United Bank ""saver CD"" which requires you to set up automatic monthly deposits.  You would have to check each individual bank's CD offerings to see if they have such a product. However, if you make ongoing deposits to it, a CD becomes less distinguishable from a savings account.  Even if a given bank does offer a ""depositable"" CD, you might conceivably be able to find a higher rate on a plain savings account at another bank (especially an online bank offering high savings account rates).  For instance, the USAA CD I mentioned above has an APY of 0.46%, but the high yield savings accounts on this NerdWallet list have higher APYs than that.  So even if you can find the kind of CD you describe, it might be better to just use a savings account anyway." One reason why you can get a better rate with a CD compared to a regular savings account is that they lock you into that account for the period of the CD. You can get out of the CD early, but you will forfeit some of the interest. You also generally can't move a portion of the money out of the CD, you have to pull it all out, and then start a new CD with the portion you don't spend. You have to check the terms and conditions for that particular CD.  Some people use them to hold their emergency fund. This is the 3-6 months of expenses you set aside in case of a major problem such as a medical emergency or a job loss. The rate is better than the regular savings account, so it can come closer to inflation. The goal is preservation of capital, not investing for the future. So if you understand the risks, and the CD is backed with the same guarantees as the savings account, then it is a viable way to store some or all of the emergency fund.