Is it worth it to reconcile my checking/savings accounts every month?
I quit diligently reconciling monthly statements some years before everything was online, when I realized that for years before that, every time I thought I found a mistake, it was always my own error. I was spending a fair amount of time (over the years) doing something that wasn't helping me. So I quit. That said, I do look at the statements and/or check the transactions on a regular basis (I now use email notifications of automatic deposits as the trigger, and then look over withdrawals, too) to make sure everything looks appropriate. I'm less concerned about a bank error than I am about identity or account theft. While it's wise, easier and safer to check your transactions online a few times a month, I opt to receive and file paper statements as a hard copy back up of account history. Any reconciliation I perform is a quick glance to make sure the numbers sound right. It's probably a small waste of time and space, but it settles some of my paranoia (due to my training as a computer engineer)  about failure of electronic banking systems. If someone tampers with bank records or a SAN explodes and wipes out a bunch of account data, then I will have years worth of paper statements to back up my numbers.  Having years worth of statements printed on the banks stationary will have better credibility in court than a .pdf or printout thereof that could have been doctored, in case I ever needed to take my bank to court. A little piece of mind for the price of a letter opener, a square foot file box and a couple of minutes a month. Account statements and the account information provided by your personal finance software should be coming from the same source, namely your bank's internal accounting records. So in theory one is just as good as the other. That being said, an account statement is a snapshot of your account on the date the statement was created, while synchronizations with your personal finance application is dynamically generated upon request (usually once a day or upon login).  So what are the implications of this? Your account statement will not show transactions that may have taken place during that period but weren't posted until after the period ended (common with credit card transactions and checks). Instead they'd appear on the next statement. Because electronic account synchronizations are more frequent and not limited to a specific time period those transactions will show up shortly after they are posted. So it is far easier to keep track of your accounts electronically. Every personal finance software I've ever used supports manual entries so what I like to do is on a daily basis I manually enter any transaction which wasn't posted automatically. This usually only takes a few minutes each evening. Then when the transaction eventually shows up it's usually reconciled with my manually entered one automatically.  Aside from finding (infrequent) bank errors this has the benefit of keeping me aware of how much I'm spending and how much I have left. I've also caught a number of cashier errors this way (noticing I was double-charged for an item while entering the receipt total) and its the best defense against fraud and identity theft I can think of. If you're looking at your accounts on a daily basis you're far more likely to notice an unusual transaction than any monitoring service. "My wife and I are paid every two weeks. I go on line see the exact deposit, add it to register, and see what checks cleared. In effect, I reconcile twice per month, and the statement can't be different that what their system tells me. Since the online site shows ""last statement balance"" I feel there's no need to bother with the paper, nothing left to reconcile." Banks make mistakes.  Reconciling your account with your bank statement is the way to catch the errors. I don't use debit cards, but if I did I would review that portion of the statement. I look at my credit card statements pretty closely, and probably catch one or two mistakes or things I want to question every year. Sounds like you are reconciling more than once a month.  I like to say I glance at all my statements, but these days I just look at the final balance and call it good.  If a transaction shows up by mistake, I would find it in a couple of days because of how often I update my Quicken and Mint.com
You should have a separate business account. Mixing business and personal funds is a bad practice. Shop around, you should be able to find a bank that will let you open a free checking account, especially if you are going to have minimal activity (e.g. less than 20 of checks per month) and perhaps maintain a small balance (e.g. $100 or $500). It's not clear the cost of funds is a annual or monthly rate. If it is a monthly rate the answers do not converge and you lose money assuming the customer spending is linear.   Let's assume you spent $100 a month (evenly spread out).  You generate $1.50 in interchange fees.   What's my cost of funds within that month? Subtract that from your interchange fee number. (I think calculus might be the best option for calculating this). There's your notional income off of $100, which can easily be solved for $260/year. Do you plan a monthly budget at the beginning of each month?  This might seem counter-intuitive, but hear me out. Doing a budget is, of course, critically important for those who struggle with having enough money to last the month.  Having this written spending plan allows people struggling with finances to control their spending and funnel money into debt reduction or saving goals.  However, budgeting can also help those with the opposite problem. There are some, like you perhaps, that have enough income and live frugally enough that they don't have to budget.  Their money comes in, and they spend so little that the bank account grows automatically.  It sounds like a good problem to have, but your finances are still out of control, just in a different way.  Perhaps you are underspending simply because you don't know if you will have enough money to last or not. By making a spending plan, you set aside money each month for various categories in three broad areas: Since you have plenty of money coming in, generously fund these spending categories.  As long as you have money in the categories when you go to the store, you can feel comfortable splurging a little, because you know that your other categories are funded and the money is there to pay those other bills.  Create other categories, such as technology or home improvement, and when you need an app or have a home improvement project, you can confidently spend this money, as it has already been allocated for those purposes. If you are new to budgeting, software such as YNAB can make it much easier. The effect on your credit score would be a positive one.  If you have plenty of money now then pay off the balance each month. If you are very disciplined and can pay off the balance each month you could stop using your debit card to make daily purchases and use your credit card instead. That way you can keep your money in an interest bearing account all month and pay the bill in full when it comes due. I would suggest opening a new account (credit card and bank) for just your business. This protects you in multiple ways, but is no bigger burden for you other than carrying another card in your wallet.  Then QB can download the transactions from your website and reconciling is a cinch. If you got audited, you'd be in for a world of pain right now.  From personal experience there are a few charges that go unnoticed that reconciling finds every month at our business.  We have a very strict process in place, but some things slip through the cracks. Quicken has tools for this, but they have some quirks so i hesitate to actually recommend it on that basis. I do this, and as you say the biggest downside is not having a separate account for your savings.  If you're the type of person who struggles with restraint this is not for you. On the other hand this type of account gives more interest than any other type of US Checking or Savings account I've seen, so you will benefit from the interest. If this matters to you a lot, I agree you should leave. My primary bank account raised chequing account and transaction fees. I left. When I was closing my account the teller asked for the reason (they needed to fill out a form) and I explained it was the monthly fees. Eventually, if a bank gets enough of these, they will change. I want to get back those features for the same price it cost when I opened it They are in their rights to cancel features or raise prices. Just as you are in your rights to withdraw if they don't give you a deal. The reason why I mention this is that this approach is comical in some instances. A grocery store may raise the price of carrots. Typically you either deal with it or change stores. Prices rise occasionally. thus they will lose a lot of money from my savings From my understanding, a bank makes a large chunk of their money from fees. Very little is from the floating kitty they can have because of your savings. If you have an investment account with your bank (not recommended) or your mortgage, that would matter more. I've had friends who have left banks (and moved their mortgages) because of the bank not giving them a better rate. Does the manager have any pressure into keeping the account to the point of giving away free products to keep the costumer or they don't really care? Depends. I've probably say no. One data point is an anecdote; it is expected in a client base of thousands that a few will leave for seemingly random reasons. Only if mass amounts of clients leave or complain will the manager or company care. A note: some banks waive monthly account or service fees if you keep a minimal account balance. I have one friend who keeps X thousand in his bank account to save the account fee; he budgets a month ahead of time and savings account rates are 0% so this costs him nothing. Wells Fargo.  They have an account called PMA, an umbrella account for checking, savings, mortgage, and brokerage accounts.  It would cost $30/month, but I never had to pay because I have a rollover retirement account that is enough to waive the fees.  They count all accounts, including mortgage, which I used to have.  Oh, and no restrictions.  An added advantage is there are no fees for any of the accounts, nor for some other things, like bank checks, outside ATM fees, etc.    I'm in California, so I don't know if the same deal exists in other states.  But if you qualify for the free account, it's pretty good.  Actually, most of my investments are Vanguard funds.  And I have another rollover account with Vanguard, and never pay fees, but I only buy or sell from one Vanguard fund to another, and rarely since I have targeted retirement funds that are designed to be no maintenance.  For some reason, I trust Vanguard more than most other funds; maybe because I like their philosophy on low-cost funds, which they started but are now getting more popular. "From a quick look at sources on the web, it looks to me like Money Market Accounts and savings accounts are both paying about the same rate today: around 1%, give or take maybe 0.4%. I suppose that's better than nothing, but it's not a whole lot better than nothing. (I saw several savings accounts advertising 0.1% interest. If they mailed you a check, the postage could be more than the returns.) Personally, I keep a modest amount of emergency cash in my checking account, and I put my ""savings"" in a very safe mutual fund. That generally gets somewhere from making maybe 3% a year to losing a small amount. Certainly nothing to sing about, but better than savings or money markets. Whether you are willing to tolerate the modest risk or the sales charges is a matter for your personal situation and feelings." "An alternative to a savings account is a money market account.  Not a bank ""Money Market"" account which pays effectively the same silly rate as a savings account, but an actual Money Market investment account.  You can even write checks against some Money Market investment accounts. I have several accounts worth about 13,000 each.  Originally, my ""emergency fund"" was in a CD ladder.  I started experimenting with two different Money market investment accounts recently.  Here's my latest results: August returns on various accounts worth about $13k:  - Discover Bank CD:  $13.22  - Discover Bank CD:  $13.27  - Discover Bank CD:  $13.20  - Discover Savings:  $13.18  - Credit Union ""Money Market"" Savings account:  $1.80  - Fidelity Money Market Account (SPAXX):  $7.35  - Vanguard Money market Account (VMFXX):  $10.86 The actual account values are approximate.  The Fidelity Money Market Account holds the least value, and the Credit Union account by far the most. The result of the experiment is that as the CDs mature, I'll be moving out of Discover Bank into the Vanguard Money Market account. You can put your money into more traditional equities mutual fund.  The danger with them is the stock market may drop big the day before you want to make your withdrawl... and then you don't have the down payment for your house anymore.  But a well chosen mutual fund will yield better. There are 3 ways a mutual fund increase in value: Here's how three of my mutual funds did in the past month...  adjusted as if the accounts had started off to be worth about $13,000: Those must vary wildly month-to-month. By the way, if you look up the ticker symbols, VASGX is a Vanguard ""Fund of Funds"" -- it invests not 100% in the stock market, but 80% in the stock market and 20% in bonds.  VSMGX is a 60/40 split.  Interesting that VASGX grew less than VSMGX...but that assumes my spreadsheet is correct.  Most of my mutual funds pay dividends and capital gains once or twice a year.  I don't think any pay in August." "If I had to take sides, I'd think that it would be better to be able to divide up the entirety of your savings into big ""buckets,"" as others are saying in their answers -- if not in physically accounts, then at least conceptually. Let's say you're 45 years old and have $350,000 in various accounts.  I would argue that you should at the very least know this level of detail: So, if you get in a really, really bad snowmobile accident that costs $100,000, you know, at least conceptually, that: Now, you're in a better position to revise your goals.  Maybe you decide that real estate isn't ""all that"" and you allocate the entire shortfall to that item, and reallocate it to start the first Snowmobile Safety Program in the country. So now it looks like this: But had you not compartmentalized the funds to begin with, you wouldn't have known where you stood." Great work so far, and good question.  I think a lot of it depends on how risky your financial life is.   For example lets say that you are working a temp or contract job that ends in 3 months.  That is also the same month your savings and student loan will be equal.  I think most would agree that it would be foolish to empty out your savings in such a risky month.   Now same situation one month later.  The company you were working for takes you on as a full time employee.  I would go ahead and empty out my savings and make the student loan go away.   There could be other risks to consider like needing a different car, moving to a new place, potential medical bills, or a needing to travel.  Anything like that on the horizon I would hold off emptying out my savings.  However, once it is smooth sailing GO FOR IT! Being debt free is wonderful and it is a worthy goal. Yes, and there are several ways, the safest is a high-yield savings account which will return about 1% yearly, so $35 per month. That's not extremely much, but better than nothing (you probably get almost zero interest on a regular checking account). I have gotten a letter of credit from my credit union stating the maximum amount I can finance. Of course I don't show  the dealer the letter until after we have finalized the deal. I Then return in 3 business days with a cashiers check for the purchase price.  In one case since the letter was for an amount greater then the purchase price I was able drive the car off the lot without having to make a deposit. In another case they insisted on a $100 deposit before I drove the car off the lot. I have also had them insist on me applying for their in-house loan, which was cancelled when I returned with the cashiers check.  The procedure was similar regardless If I was getting a loan from the credit union, or paying for the car without the use of a loan. The letter didn't say how much was loan, and how much was my money.  Unless you know the exact amount, including all taxes and fees,in advance you can't get a check in advance. If you are using a loan the bank/credit Union will want the car title in their name.