I have a 2008 HHR under finance it needs a new engine
"I know, this isn't a direct answer to your question about unloading a used car-- I've always donated it to charity and written off the price it got at auction on my taxes -- but I think the following might be useful to anyone facing a big repair bill: You know your car's condition. (If in doubt, pay your mechanic to evaluate it ""as if he was considering buying it for his daughter"".) If you were shopping for a used car, and you found one exactly like yours, in exactly the same condition, treated exactly as well as you treat yours (and with all the records to prove that), but with the repairs already done... how much would you be willing to pay for it? If that number is more than the repair cost, repairing is a good deal.  If it's less than the repair cost, is it enough less to justify the hassle of car shopping? If so, unload it and use the repair money to buy something better. If it's in the middle... flip a coin, or pick whichever makes you feel better." I'm leaning more towards trading it in can anyone give me some pointers on how to get the best deal? Information is key to getting the best deal possible. That is why I would strongly suggest getting a second opinion on the repairs. A misfire could be caused by many things. From cheap (bad spark plugs or cables) to mid-range cost (timing is off) to expensive (not getting proper compression in the cylinders due to mechanical issues that could require an engine rebuild). Also, car diagnostics is not an exact science, so it is definitely worth checking with another mechanic. You trust the first place you took it too, which is great. You taking it to another place does not represent a lack of trust, it represents knowing that humans are fallible and car repair diagnostics are not perfect either. Once you have quotes from 2 or 3 places for the repair work, you are in a much better position to negotiate. The next step is to see how much it will cost to replace the thing. Get actual quotes for trade-in from dealers, and you must disclose the engine troubles to them when getting this quote. $8,000 minus this amount is how much you are under water. Add that to the price of the car you would like to purchase to know how much of a loan you will have to take out (minus any downpayment). The next thing to consider is how you manage your risk from there. Your new car will be under-water too. Can you even get a loan? Will you need additional collateral or gap insurance to get the loan? What happens if you get in an accident the next day and total this car? Once you have all of this information, you are ready to really start thinking about the decision to be made. Things to consider: How reliable has the HHR been up to now? You don't want to put $3,500 into it now only to have to spend a few grand more in a month to replace the transmission. It is hard for us to know this as we don't know how long you have had it, what troubles you have had in the past, how well you have taken care of it (regular oil changes and maintenance). Keshlam is right about asking mechanics to check for other problems and scheduled maintenance that has not been done (e.g., timing belts replaced). Once you have made your decision, remember that everything is negotiable if you are wiling to walk away. If you decide to keep the car, try to get a better deal on the repairs by checking out other repair shops. If you decide to buy another car and get rid of this one, both the sale price of the new car and the trade-in price of the HHR are negotiable. Shop around and put in the work to buy something that will last a at a good price.
Question (which you need to ask yourself): How well are your friends paid for their work? What would happen if you just took your money and bought a garage, and hired two car mechanics? How would that be different from what you are doing?  The money that you put into the company, is that paid in capital, or is it a loan to the company that will be repaid? The key here is the bank, they hold the title to the car and as such have the final say in things. The best thing you can do is to pay off the loan.  Could you work like crazy and pay off the car in 6 months to a year? The next best thing would be to sell the car.  You will probably have to cover the depreciation out of pocket.  You will also need to have some cash to buy a different car, but buy it for cash like you should have done in the first place. The worst option and what most people opt for, which is why they are broke, is to seek to refinance the car.  I am not sure why you would have to wait 6 months to a year to refinance, but unless you have truly horrific credit, a local bank or credit union will be happy for your business.  Choose this option if you want to continue to be broke for the next five years or so. Once any of those happen it will be easy to re-title the car in your name only provided you are on good terms with the girlfriend.  It is just a matter of going to the local title office and her signing over her interest in the car. My hope is that you understand the series of foolish decisions that you made in this vehicle purchase and avoid them in the future.  Or, at the very least, you consciously make the decision to appear wealthy rather than actually being wealthy. Why not get an estimate at few different shops?  Some that honor the warranty and others that don't.  Then you can make a math based decision on where to have the car fixed. While your fear is reasonable, information is a remedy. "DO NOT buy this car. First, I want to say I love BMW's.  There's a reason why they call them ""ultimate driving machine"" and why other car manufacturers compare their new models to BMWs.  I own 330i and I absolutely love it.  Every time you get into the car, it just begs you to push and abuse it.  Everything from steering response to throttle to engine sound.  Awesome car.  However... 1) BMW is not known for their reliability.  I've had to do numerous things to this car and if I didn't do the work myself (i like tinkering with cars), it would be a pretty big money pit (and actually still is).  German parts are more expensive then regular cars.  Labor will run you if you take it for service.  Right now my car is on jack stands while I'm fixing an oil leak, replacing cooling system components which are known to fail and doing work with the cam timing system which uses bad seals. 2) If you buy a used car which is 3 years old, just remember all the wearable items and everything that wants to break, will break 3 years sooner on you.  Someone else already pre-enjoyed your car's maintenance-free days.  At 60k-80k things will start to go.  Ask me how I know.  So you'll start paying for maintenance way before your 5-year loan expires.  Compare this 330i to the Acura Integra I used to have.  Acura (aka Honda) had 194k miles when I sold it and I NEVER ONCE got stranded with the Acura. 3) Fuel economy is not that good and btw you have to use the most expensive gas. 4) If you are really set on buying a BMW because you enjoy driving and won't drive like an old lady (my apologies to those old ladies that drive at least the speed limit, but you are not the majority), then still do not by this one and check out auctions.  I bought my 2003 330i in 2005 for 21k when it cost over 40k new.  You could probably find one with less than 20k miles on it. My final advice is either a) learn to at least do basic maintenance or b) stick to always buying new cars which don't have any issues in first 4-7 years, then move on before you have to schedule your life around your cars. on the bright side I doubt you'll have to ever replace the exhaust and you can buy tail lights on e-bay for roughly $60 :)" You are currently $30k in debt.  I realize it is tempting to purchase a new car with your new job, but increasing your debt right now is heading in the wrong direction.  Adding a new monthly payment into your budget would be a mistake, in my opinion. Here is what I would suggest.  Since you have $7k in the bank, spend up to $6k on a nice used car.  This will keep $1k in the bank for emergencies, and give you transportation without adding debt and a monthly payment.  Then you can focus on knocking out the student loans.   Won't it be nice when those student loans are gone?  By not going further into debt, you will be much closer to that day.  New cars are a luxury that you aren't in a position to splurge on yet. I understand, and I'm not necessarily disagreeing; I'm just asking how we know this.  It's one thing if it's a logical deduction you've made, but it's another if there's direct objective evidence.  Do these statistics pertain to all car sales or just factory car sales?  The car I own today is the car I've owned the longest, but it's not because I can't afford to buy another one, it's because I have absolutely no reason to.  My car was made in 2000; it has 115k miles on it.  I could write a long list of things that are still performing just as adequately as they did when it was new, and how aside from being somewhat less powerful it doesn't actually do anything worse than comparable new cars; I'll spare you. :)  Cars in 1970 were never expected to be driven past 100k miles without major service work, including an engine and transmission overhaul.  Many cars well into the late 70s didn't even come with that many digits on the odometer.  The economic conditions you mention, including the astonishing transfer of wealth between classes, are not good signs and it obviously needs to be reversed or this country is going to be a really shitty place to live soon.  And hell yes I believe it's affecting car sales.  But I'm really not convinced it's the main reason car sales peaked 40 years ago.  Housing sales only peaked a few years ago, and both markets have screwed themselves over-issuing credit, albeit in different ways.  Point is, you don't need to be able to afford a car when you can get a loan practically at the push of a button; Americans don't think in terms of what something costs, they think in terms of what it costs *per month*.  Income shrinkage has been allowed to happen because people have been allowed to spend money they don't have.  I know people living paycheck-to-paycheck who spend $150 - $250 per month on just data.  They also have $10k's of revolving credit card debt and, even worse, $10k's in student loans.  $250 per month won't save up for a new Cadillac anytime soon, but it *will* put you into a Cadillac if you don't mind having spent $63k on a $38k car by the time your loan matures.  (Edit: those numbers are pretty exaggerated, $250/mo. wouldn't get you a Cadillac until it was several years old.  You'd still end up paying several thousand more than if you'd paid cash, though... the point is that our economy is floating on credit, and this has allowed rampant overspending and living above means in the average household).  You see what I'm saying?  All other factors being equal car sales should have peaked a few years ago, or at least in the late 90s during the (first?) dot com bubble.  There was *far* more spending power out there - not income, but spending power. "You say  Also I have been the only one with an income in our household for last 15 years, so for most of our marriage any debts have been in my name. She has a credit card (opened in 1999) that she has not used for years and she is also a secondary card holder on an American Express card and a MasterCard that are both in my name (she has not used the cards as we try to keep them only for emergencies). This would seem to indicate that the dealer is correct.  Your wife has no credit history.   You say that you paid off her student loans some years back.  If ""some years"" was more than seven, then they have dropped off her credit report.  If that's the most recent credit activity, then she effectively has none.   Even if you get past that, note that she also doesn't have any income, which makes her a lousy co-signer.  There's no real circumstance where you couldn't pay for the car but she could based on the historical data.  She would have to get a job first.  Since they had no information on her whatsoever, they probably didn't even get to that." Well damn.. my ass is getting roasted. What I meant was when I'm dropping money to get a fast sports car, I want a stick shift with a loud engine. I don't want a sports car with paddle shifters and an engine that sounds like my aunts electric car. "Let's assess the situation first, then look at an option: This leaves you with about $1,017/mo in cash flow, provided you spend money on nothing else (entertainment, oil changes, general merchandise, gifts, etc.) So I'd say take $200/mo off that as ""backup"" money. Now we're at $817/mo.  Question: What have you been doing with this extra $800/mo? If you put $600/mo of that extra towards the 10% loan, it would be paid off in 12 months and you would only pay $508 in interest. If you have been saving it (like all the wisest people say you should), then you should have plenty enough to either pay for a new transmission or buy a ""good enough"" car outright.  10% interest rate on a vehicle purchase is not very good. Not sure why you have a personal loan to handle this rather than an auto loan, but I'll guess you have a low credit score or not much credit history.  Cost of a new transmission is usually $1,700 - $3,500. Not sure what vehicle we're talking about, so let's make it $3,000 to be conservative.  At your current interest rate, you'll have paid another $1,450 in interest over the next 33 months just trying to pay off your underwater car.  If you take your old car to a dealership and trade it in towards a ""new to you"" car, you might be able to roll your existing loan into a new loan. Now, I'm not sure when you say personal loan if you mean an official loan from a bank or a personal loan from a friend/family-member, so that could make a difference. I'm also not sure if a dealership will be willing to recognize a personal loan in the transaction as I'd wager there's no lien against the vehicle for them to worry about. But, if you can manage it, you may be able to get a lower overall interest rate. If you can't roll it into a new financing plan, then you need to assess if you can afford a new loan (provided you even get approved) on top of your existing finances. One big issue that will affect interest rates and approvals will be your down payment amount. The higher it is, the better interest rate you'll receive. Ultimately, you're in a not-so-great position, but if your monthly budget is as you describe, then you'll be fine after a few more years. The perils of buying a used car is that you never know what might happen. What if you don't repair your existing car, buy another car, and it breaks down in a year? It's all a bit of a gamble. Don't let your emotions get in the way of making a decision. You might be frustrated with your current vehicle, but if $3,000 of repairs makes it last 3 more years, (by which time your current loan should be paid off), then you'll be in a much better spot to finance a newer vehicle. Of course it would be much better to save up cash over that time and buy something outright, but that's not always feasible.  Would you rather fix up your current car and keep working to pay down the debt, or, would you rather be rid of the car and put $3,000 down on a ""new to you"" car and take on an additional monthly debt? There's no single right answer for you. First and foremost you need to assess your monthly cash flow and properly allocate the extra funds. Get out of debt as soon as reasonably possible." I agree! Definitely not a black and white situation and there's a lot of factors.  Maintenance really isn't that big of a deal if it's done correctly. I've never had to replace an engine or transmission on a car younger than 40 or 50 years old. My 88 Chevy Blazer is still going strong and my girlfiends 56 oldsmobile still has original engine and tranny, not rebuilt.  I'd like to own a Tesla once it's feasible to drive 500+ miles at a time like a normal car. Don't buy the first model year of a new model unless the fuel economy is much better in the latest model.  Buying a car in later years just before the changeover will result in a slightly higher quality vehicle or in some cases dramatically higher quality. Find the best forum for your make/model/year of car.  Join the forum, check the FAQ, sticky threads and post questions when you have trouble.  Do NOT rely passively on the dealer or even private mechanics as they do not drive the car every day.  You are in the best position to identify problems but only if you have some help.   Preventive maintenance is the best if you intend to keep the car for a really long time.  Forums are a really good place to find the typical problems of a particular model and potentially head them off. I think usually the difference is between two cars that one is more expensive than the others not if some large difference. In combustion engines three options maybe a more expensive V8 or V6. So that you could be 6 I know that I'm getting a smaller motor and certain things come with that that may not be as superior to the V8. In my head, and let me stress this is just my opinion and everything else anyone else thinks it's fine, you buy a Tesla in the exact same battery assist in the more expensive model but it's wall by software It just strikes me as strange. But once again I will never own a Tesla but I'm very happy for Tesla enthusiasts and I wish Elan all the best and success. I'm just stating my opinion that I want a substantial difference in the mechanics and quality of a vehicle intangible terms and not get the same equipment walled off for Less "Seems to me you don't have a ton of great choices, but of them: Keep going as you are.  If/when the car becomes unusable without significant expenses, stop using it.  Buy another junker and use that to get by until your loan is paid off.  From now until then, put aside a few hundred (or whatever you can, if more) each month towards the anticipated purchase.  When you do buy this junker, pay in cash - no loan.  Just get something that will take you to work, and that includes ""bike"" if that's a possibility.  When you can, sell the no longer usable car to finish paying off the loan. Start aggressively paying off the current loan, with the eye of getting it down to where you're not underwater anymore.  Then sell the car and dispose of the loan, and buy a better replacement.  Scrimp and save and cut everything - eat cheaply (and never out), cut your personal expenses everywhere you can.  If you get another $250 a month towards principal, you can probably be no-longer-underwater in about a year. Get a personal loan today for the amount that you're underwater, and immediately sell the car.  This gets you out of the loan and car the quickest, and if you think the car will devalue significantly between now and when you might be not underwater anymore, this might be the best option.  But it's the most expensive, likely - you'll pay 12% to 20% on the difference.  Now, 12% of $5000 is less than 5% of 15000, so it might actually be a good financial deal - but you'll probably have to shop around to get 12-15% with a 660 (though it's probably possible).  You'll still be without a car at this point, though, so you'd have to buy another one (or live without for a while), and you'd still have a payment of some sort, but perhaps a more manageable one ($5000 @ 12% @ 5 years means something a bit over $100 a month, for example.) I recommend that if you can get by without a car for a while, option 2 is your best bet.  All of these will require some financial care for a while, and probably cutting back on expenses for a year or two; but realistically, you shouldn't expect anything else.  Get a budgeting app if it will help see how to do this. As far as getting out of the loan without paying it, I don't recommend that at all.  Your credit will be ruined for at least seven years, and 660 is not bad at all really, and then would take  yet more years to recover.  You will likely be sued for the balance plus collection costs, beyond repossession.  The consequences would be far, far worse than just paying it off, and I mean that financially as well as ethically." "Drive it around SF with a big sign saying ""I have no idea why I bought this, but give me ideas how to make money with it!""  P/S: only drive it down hill in SF. It will not be able to make it up-hill, with the sign." A wing is a tremendously complicated part. Its aerodynamic properties affect the whole system, plus there are structural issues and fuel management systems. Wings also support the engines.  In the 787's case, Boeing outsourced the wing's design. This can make sense: if Boeing specifies the interfaces between the wing and body and engines (physical, electronic, fluids), then all designers should be able to work to these interface specs.  However, in this case, that was too difficult a challenge.