Might I need a credit score to rent, or for any other non-borrowing finances?
"Credit scores are not such a big deal in Canada as they are in the US and even some European countries.  One reason for this: the Social Insurance Number (SIN number) isn't used for so many purposes like the Social Security Number (SSN) in the US.  The SIN number isn't even required to get credit (but with some exceptions it is needed to open an interest-bearing savings account, so that the interest income can be reported).  You can refuse to provide the SIN number to most private companies. Canada also has one of the highest per-capita immigration rates of any large country, so new arrivals are expected, and services are geared up for them.  Most of the banks offer special deals for ""New Canadians"".  You should get a credit card (even if just a secured credit card) through them with one of these offers to start a credit file anyway, but there's no need to actually use it much.  Auto-paying a utility bill through the card, and paying it off in full each month, is one way to keep it active.  No need to ever pay any interest. Most major apartment rental firms will expect a good proportion of their renters to be new to Canada, so should have procedures in place to deal with it (such as a higher deposit).  You should not give them your SIN for a credit check, even when you're more established. Same for utilities, they can just charge a higher deposit if they can't credit check you.  For private landlords, everything is negotiable (but see the laws link at the end of this answer). You will later need a credit rating for a mortgage on a house (if not paying cash), so it's worth getting that one token credit card.  Useful for car rental also. Here's a fairly complete summary of the laws on renting in Canada, which includes the maximum deposits that can be asked for, and notice periods." Alas, institutions do not always act rationally, and being an outlier by never having debt may be bad enough. Therein is your problem. The question, then, is do you want to do business with institutions that are not acting rationally? While I cannot specifically speak to Canadian business practices, I have to imagine that in terms of credit history as a prerequisite to a lease, it can't be too different than America. It is possible to live without a credit score. This is typically done by those with enough resources that do not need to borrow money. To make transactions that commonly use credit scores, such as a lease, they will provide personal financial statements (balance sheets, personal income statements, bank statements, pay stubs, tax returns, etc...) to show that they are credit-worthy. References from prior landlords may also be beneficial. Again, the caveat is to elect to only conduct business with those individuals and institutions that are intelligent and rational enough to be able to analyze your financial position (and ability to pay) without a credit score. Therefore, you'll probably have better luck working with individual landlords, as opposed to corporate-owned rental complexes. Typically one wants to see a credit score, just because you may have money in the bank and decent income does not mean your going to pay, there are plenty of people who have the money but simply refuse to cough it up. Credit is simply a relative way of seeing where one fits against another in a larger group, it shows that this person not only can pay, but does pay. While not having a credit history should make no difference, I can and hopefully easily posited above why it can be necessary to have one. Not all landlords will require a credit check, I was not required to give one, I did not have much credit to begin with, given that, I was forced to cough up a higher degree of a security deposit.
Need is a strong word. As far as merchants are concerned, if they accept, e.g., Visa credit, they will accept Visa Debit. The reverse is not necessarily true. Up until lately, Aldi would only accept debit cards (credit cards have higher merchant fees), and when I used to got to Sam's Club, they would accept Visa debit, but not credit (they had/have an exclusive deal with Discover for credit). So, yes, they can tell from the card number whether it's credit or debit. However, I've never heard of a case of the situation being biased against debit.*  That said there are some advantages to having a credit card: ETA: I don't know how credit history works in the EU, but in the US having open credit accounts definitely does affect your credit score which directly affects what rate you can get for a mortgage.  *ETA_2: As mentioned in the comments and another answer, car rentals will often require credit cards and not debit (Makes sense to me that they would want to make sure they can get their money if there is damage to the car). Many credit cards do include rental car insurance if you use it to pay for your rental, so that's another potential advantage for credit cards. No, don't open a credit card. Get used to paying cash for everything from the beginning. The best situation you can be in is not to have any credit. When it comes time to buy a house, put down %30 percent and your 0 credit score won't matter. This will keep you within your means, and, with governments gathering more and more data, help preserve your anonimity. In addition to the already good answers: I am assuming you are playing a long game and have no specific need for a high credit score in the next couple of years.  This list is just good practice that will raise you score. Slightly abbreviated version of the guidance from NOLO.com California state law limits credit check or application screening fees landlords  can charge prospective tenants and specifies what landlords must do when accepting these types of fees. (Cal. Civ. Code § 1950.6.)  Here are key provisions: I am not a lawyer, but it would seem you have two options if you catch a landlord violating these rules. An idea to avoid the whole problem in the first place: Get a copy of your credit report yourself and take a copy with you to meet the landlord. If they want an application fee, ask why they need it making it clear you know the above law. If they say for a credit report offer to give them a copy in lieu of the fee. "Credit Unions have long advocated their services based on the fact that they consider your ""character.""  Unfortunately, they are then at a loss to explain how they determine the value of your character, other than to say that you're buddies & play pool together so they'll give you a loan. Your Credit History / Score is as accurate a representation of your character in business dealings as can be meaningfully quantified.  It tracks your ability to effectively use and manage debt, and your propensity to pay it back responsibly or default on obligations.  While it isn't perfect, it is certainly one of the best means currently available for determining someone's trustworthiness when it comes to financial matters." I have a car loan paid in full and even paid off early, and 2 personal loans paid in full from my credit union that don't seem to reflect in a positive way and all 3 were in good standing. But you also  My credit card utilization is 95%. I have a total of 4 store credit cards, a car loan, 2 personal loans. So assuming no overlap, you've paid off three of your ten loans (30%).  And you still have 95% utilization.   What would you do if you were laid off for six months?  Regardless of payment history, you would most likely stop making payments on your loans.  This is why your credit score is bad.  You are in fact a credit risk.  Not due to payment history.  If your payment history was bad, you'd likely rank worse.  But simple fiscal reality is that you are an adverse event away from serious fiscal problems.   For that matter, the very point that you are considering bankruptcy says that they are right to give you a poor score.  Bankruptcy has adverse effects on you, but for your creditors it means that many of them will never get paid or get paid less than what they loaned.   The hard advice that we can give is to reduce your expenses.  Stop going to restaurants.  Prepare breakfast and supper from scratch and bag your lunch.  Don't put new expenses on your credit cards unless you can pay them this month.  Cut up your store cards and don't shop for anything but necessities.  Whatever durables (furniture, appliances, clothes, shoes, etc.) you have now should be enough for the next year or so.   Cut your expenses.  Have premium channels on your cable or the extra fast internet?  Drop back to the minimum instead.  Turn the heat down and the A/C temperature up (so it cools less).  Turn off the lights if you aren't using them.  If you move, move to a cheaper apartment.  Nothing to do?  Get a second job.  That will not only keep you from being bored, it will help with your financial issues.   Bankruptcy will not itself fix the problems you describe.  You are living beyond your means.  Bankruptcy might make you stop living beyond your means.  But it won't fix the problem that you make less money than you want to spend.  Only you can do that.  Better to stop the spending now rather than waiting until bankruptcy makes your credit even worse and forces you to cut spending.   If you have extra money at the end of the month, pick the worst loan and pay as much of it as you can.  By worst, I mean the one with the worst terms going forward.  Highest interest rate, etc.  If two loans have the same rate, pay the smaller one first.  Once you pay off that loan, it will increase the amount of money you have left to pay off your other loans.  This is called the debt snowball (snowball effect).   After you finish paying off your debt, save up six months worth of expenses or income.  These will be your emergency savings.   Once you have your emergency fund, write out a budget and stick to it.  You can buy anything you want, so long as it fits in your budget.  Avoid borrowing unless absolutely necessary.  Instead, save your money for bigger purchases.  With savings, you not only avoid paying interest, you may actually get paid interest.  Even if it's a low rate, paid to you is better than paying someone else.   One of the largest effects of bankruptcy is that it forces you to act like this.  They offer you even less credit at worse terms.  You won't be able to shop on credit anymore.  No new car loan.  No mortgage.  No nice clothes on credit.  So why declare bankruptcy?  Take charge of your spending now rather than waiting until you can't do anything else. "I'm not aware that any US bank has any way to access your credit rating in France (especially as you basically don't have one!). In the US, banks are not the only way to get finance for a home.  In many regions, there are plenty of ""owner financed"" or ""Owner will carry"" homes.  For these, the previous owner will provide a private mortgage for the balance if you have a large (25%+) downpayment.  No strict lending rules, no fancy credit scoring systems, just a large enough downpayment so they know they'll get their money back if they have to foreclose.  For the seller, it's a way to shift a house that is hard to sell plus get a regular income. Often this mortgage is for only 3-10 years, but that gives you the time to establish more credit and then refinance.  Maybe the interest rate is a little higher also, but again it's just until you can refinance to something better (or sell other assets then pay the loan off quick). For new homes, the builders/developers may offer similar finance. For both owner-will-carry and developer finance, a large deposit will trump any credit rating concerns.  There is usually a simplified foreclosure process, so they're not really taking much of a risk, so can afford to be flexible. Make sure the owner mortgage is via a title company, trust company, or escrow company, so that there's a third party involved to ensure each party lives up to their obligations." I also am paying roughly twice as much in rent as a mortgage payment would be on the type of house I have been looking at, so I'd really like to purchase a house if possible. Sounds like I need to rain on your parade a bit: there's a lot more to owning a house than the mortgage. Property tax, insurance, PMI, and maintenance are things that throw this off. You'll also be paying more interest than normal given your recent credit history. It's still possible that buying is better than renting, but one really should run the detailed math on this. For example, looking at houses around where I live, insurance, property tax and special assessments over the course of a year roughly equal the mortgage payments annually.  You probably won't be able to get a loan just yet. If you've just started your new job it will take a while to build a documentable income history sufficient for lenders. But take heart! As you take the next year to save up a down payment / build up an emergency fund you'll discover that credit score improves with time. However, it's crucial that you don't do anything to mess with the score. Pay all your bills on time. Don't take out a car loan. Don't close your old revolving accounts. But most of all, don't worry. Rent hurts (I rent too) but in many parts of the US owning hurts more, as your property values fall. A house down the street from my dear old mother has been on the market for several months at a price 33 percent lower than her most recent appraisals. I'm comfortable waiting until markets stabilize / start rising before jumping on real estate. Generally, banks will report your loan to at least one (if not all three) credit bureaus - although that is not required by law. The interest you're paying, in addition to your insurance isn't justifiable for building credit. I would recommend paying the car off and then perhaps applying for a secure credit card if you are worried about being rejected. Of course, since you have very little credit, applying for an unsecured card and getting rejected won't hurt you in the long run. If you are rejected, you can always go for a secured credit card the second time.  As I mentioned in my comments, it's better to show 6 months of on-time payments than to have no payment history at all. So if your goal is to secure an apartment near campus, I'm sure you're already a step ahead of the other students. If you give me $216k to trash my credit report, I'll take it every time. People place too much value on the ability to borrow rather than having cash up front. I never pay interest (I do use a credit card and pay it off every month).  Why would you need to borrow money if you effectively got handed $200k? Of course, if your networth went from -$200k to 0, you are still broke. But considering that you were in that situation in the first place, the inability to borrow money may be a good thing. Exactly, it's not like there's a shortage of rental properties or housing opportunities. There are a few hundred (if not thousand) within a 5 mile radius of my house alone, and they certainly don't all have the same terms.  Maybe you're not going to get into a gated white collar community, but I'm pretty sure you can secure a nice place in a nice neighborhood even if your credit score is somewhere between ass and the toilet. "0% furniture loans can hurt your credit rating. I was told by a bank mortgage officer (sorry I can't cite a document) that credit rating algorithms consider ""consumer"" loans like 0% appliance loans and certain store-specific credit cards as a negative factor, lowering your overall score. The rationalization given was that that taking that type of credit is an indicator that you have zero cash reserves. The actual algorithms are proprietary, so I don't know how you could verify this. If true, it runs counter to the conventional wisdom that getting credit and then paying it off builds your credit score." I'm the contrarian in the crowd. I think credit scores and debt are the closest thing to evil incarnate. You're in good company. The absence of a credit score simply means the agencies have insufficient data in their behavioral model to determine how profitable your business would be to the bank. The higher your score, the more likely the bank is to make a profit from your loan.  IMHO, you're better off building up cash and investment reserves than a credit history. With sufficient reserves,  you will be able to shop around for a bank that will give you a good rate, if you ever do need a loan.  You'll be surprised at how quickly you get in a position where you don't need a loan if you save and invest wisely. I used to have a (high) credit score,  and I was miserable about it because there were always bills due. I gave up debt 14 years ago, paid the last debt 7 years ago, and have never. been happier. Raising kids without debt (or credit score) is much more fun than with debt. "US based so I don't know how closely this translates to the UK, but generally speaking there are three things that contribute to a strong credit score. Length/volume of credit history. This is a combination of how many accounts appear in your history along with how long they have been open.  Having a series of accounts that were maintained in good standing looks better than only having one.  Maintaining an account in good standing for a prolonged period (3+ years) is better than a bunch of short term items.  ""Ideally"" your credit history should contain a mix of term loans that were paid per contract and a few (1?) revolving account that shows ongoing use.  The goal is to show that you can handle ongoing obligations responsibly, and manage multiple things at the same time. Utilization. Or how much you currently owe vs how much people have agreed to lend you.  Being close to your limits raises questions about whether or not you can really handle the additional debt.  Having large availability raises questions about whether you would be able to handle it if you suddenly maxed things out.  Finding the correct middle point can be challenging, the numbers I have seen thrown around most by the ""experts"" is 20-30% utilization. Recent Activity. Or how much new debt have you taken on?  If someone is opening lots of new accounts it raises red flags.  Shopping around for a deal on a auto loan or mortgage before settling on one is fine.  Opening 5 new credit lines in the past 6 months, probably going to knock you down a bit.  One of the concerns here is have you had the accounts long enough to demonstrate that you will be able to handle them in the long term. One route that was suggested to me in my early years was to go take out a 6mo loan from a bank, and just place the money in a CD while I made the payments.  Then repeat with a longer term.  Worst case, you can cash out the CD to pay off the loan in an emergency, but otherwise it helps show the type of history they are looking for. All that said, I have to agree with Pete B's answer.  Don't play the credit game if you don't really need to.  Or play it just enough to stay in the game and plan your finances to avoid relying on it.  (Advice I wish I had taken long ago.)" It may or may not be a good idea to borrow money from your family; there are many factors to consider here, not the least of which is what you would do if you got in serious financial trouble and couldn't make your scheduled payments on the loan. Would you arrange with them to sell the property ASAP? Or could they easily manage for a few months without your scheduled payments if it were necessary? A good rule of thumb that some people follow when lending to family is this: don't do it unless you're 100% OK with the possibility that they might not pay you back at all. That said, your question was about credit scores specifically. Having a mortgage and making on-time payments would factor into your score, but not significantly more heavily than having revolving credit (eg a credit card) and making on time payments, or having a car loan or installment loan and making on time payments. I bought my house in 2011, and after years of paying the mortgage on time my credit score hasn't changed at all. MyFico has a breakdown of factors affecting your credit score here: http://www.myfico.com/crediteducation/whatsinyourscore.aspx. The most significant are a history of on-time payments, low revolving credit utilization (carrying a $4900 balance on a card with a $5000 limit is bad, carrying a $10 balance on the same card is good), and overall length of your credit history. As to credit mix, they have this to say: Types of credit in use Credit mix determines 10% of my FICO Score The FICO® Score will consider your mix of credit cards, retail accounts, installment loans, finance company accounts and mortgage loans. It's not necessary to have one of each, and it's not a good idea to open credit accounts you don’t intend to use. The credit mix usually won’t be a key factor in determining your FICO Score—but it will be more important if your credit report does not have a lot of other information on which to base a score. Have credit cards – but manage them responsibly Having credit cards and installment loans with a good payment history will raise your FICO Score. People with no credit cards tend to be viewed as a higher risk than people who have managed credit cards responsibly.