End-of-season car sales?
"Manufacturers sometimes give incentives to car dealers to ensure that the prior year models are sold out before the year is up.  However, dealers are usually pretty smart on only ordering the cars they know they can sell before this happens.  Also, manufacturers are usually pretty good about only producing enough vehicles to cover demand.   Honestly, you aren't likely to see these incentives materialize unless the manufacturer really screwed up.   If that happens then three things occur.  First is that manufacturers give a hidden incentive to the dealers.  Dealers won't publicize this, even internally.  If the cars are still not moving after a month, then the dealers will tell the salespeople that those cars have a specific ""bonus"" on them.  If those cars still don't sell, then the bonus inflates quite a bit and dealers begin advertising that car at a deep discount on the radio.  It's pretty much guaranteed to sell at that point. Barring those circumstances, the deal you get on a brand new car, late in the model year, is likely to be the same you could have gotten early in the model year.   Honestly, if you want the best deal possible, look at the date of the inspection sticker on the car.  If it is close to the 3 month mark then the dealer will bend over backwards to sell the car as the finance costs are racking up on it.  They'll often sell that one at heavy discounts." It completely varies by manufacturer, dealer, and time of year, but in general yes, you can get a (sometimes significant) discount on brand new last year models.  In general though, it comes down to supply and demand. As an example, in April 2016 I was looking at a brand new 2016 in which the 2017 model had come out that week (I thought April was a little early for next year's model but sometimes that's a marketing tool). The sticker price of the 2017 was only $100 more than the 2016, but the 2016 was selling for $3K under MSRP, and the 2017 was selling at exactly MSRP since they only had 2 in stock.
"This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](https://about.bnef.com/blog/electric-vehicles-accelerate-54-new-car-sales-2040/) reduced by 92%. (I'm a bot) ***** &gt; London and New York, 6 July 2017 - Electric vehicles will make up the majority of new car sales worldwide by 2040, and account for 33% of all the light-duty vehicles on the road, according to new research published today.  &gt; The team now estimates that EVs will account for 54% of all new light-duty vehicle sales globally by 2040, not the 35% share it forecast previously.  &gt; BNEF sees them accounting for nearly 67% of new car sales in Europe by 2040, and for 58% in of sales in the U.S. and 51% in China by the same date.   ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/6p1zel/electric_vehicles_to_accelerate_to_54_of_new_car/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ ""Version 1.65, ~173744 tl;drs so far."") | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr ""PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome."") | *Top* *keywords*: **New**^#1 **vehicle**^#2 **BNEF**^#3 **Energy**^#4 **Bloomberg**^#5" Negative. I'm selecting all available historical data... to only focus on this last year is not relevant to which American car company has sold the most electric cars in the US. It doesn't mean it will last forever, but those are currently the numbers. So 2015 is still well before the Model 3 is coming out, so they will still be dealing solely in Model S and Model X, which both carry an average transaction price approaching six figures.  Mercedes and BMW both produce around 60,000 of their similarly priced level vehicles (S class and 7 series respectively) per year. Audi produces around 35,000 8 series vehicles.   The point here is that if Tesla is planning on selling 100,000 vehicles in a market that is around 200k cars per year, that would represent a HUGE chunk out of the near-six-figure luxury vehicle market, and would require a non-insubstantial percentage of people to switch away from long-entrenched marques. It will be highly impressive if they pull it off. The goal wasn't to provide dealers with a heap of money, but rather ensure that new car sales kept up during the recession helping keeping the manufacturers afloat. The program achieved this goal - as per the opening paragraph, new car sales increased for the policy. "This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](http://www.france24.com/en/20170601-us-car-sales-struggle-may-despite-record-discounts) reduced by 77%. (I'm a bot) ***** &gt; Auto makers offered big discounts over the Memorial Day holiday, but the response from US car buyers in May was not enough to definitively reverse months of sales declines.  &gt; After seven years of gains, there were further signs that US car sales have plateaued, analysts said, as monthly sales data suggested a mixed picture amid heavy incentives to lure buyers into showrooms, even as truck and SUV sales surged.  &gt; The biggest US car maker, GM, saw its sales fall 1.3 percent last month compared to the same period a year earlier.   ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/6eqkaa/auto_makers_offered_big_discounts_over_the/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ ""Version 1.65, ~134307 tl;drs so far."") | [Theory](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31bfht/theory_autotldr_concept/) | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr ""PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome."") | *Top* *keywords*: **sales**^#1 **percent**^#2 **car**^#3 **truck**^#4 **consumer**^#5" "If there's one reasonably close to you, you could go to a no-haggle dealership.  Instead of making you haggle the price downward, they just give a theoretically fixed price that's roughly what the average customer could negotiate down to at a conventional dealer.  Then just do your best broken record impression if they still try to sell you dubious addons:  ""No.  No.  No.  No.  No..."" The last time I bought a new car (06), a no haggle dealer offered the second best deal I got out of 4 dealerships visited.  The one I ended up buying with made an exceptional offer on my trade (comparable to 3rd party sale bluebook value). - My guess is they had a potential customer looking for something like my old car and were hoping to resell it directly instead of flipping it via auction." There are many reasons for buying new versus used vehicles. Price is not the only factor.  This is an individual decision. Although interesting to examine from a macro perspective, each vehicle purchase is made by an individual, weighing many factors that vary in importance by that individual, based upon their specific needs and values. I have purchased both new and used cars, and I have weighted each of these factors as part of each decision (and the relative weightings have varied based upon my individual situation). Read Freakonomics to gain a better understanding of the reasons why you cannot find a good used car. The summary is the imbalance of knowledge between the buyer and seller, and the lack of trust. Although much of economics assumes perfect market information, margin (profit) comes from uncertainty, or an imbalance of knowledge.  Buying a used car requires a certain amount of faith in people, and you cannot always trust the trading partner to be honest. Price - The price, or more precisely, the value proposition of the vehicle is a large concern for many of us (larger than we might prefer that it be). Selection - A buyer has the largest selection of vehicles when they shop for a new vehicle. Finding the color, features, and upgrades that you want on your vehicle can be much harder, even impossible, for the used buyer. And once you have found the exact vehicle you want, now you have to determine whether the vehicle has problems, and can be purchased at your price. Preference - A buyer may simply prefer to have a vehicle that looks new, smells new, is clean, and does not have all the imperfections that even a gently used vehicle would exhibit. This may include issues of pride, image, and status, where the buyer may have strong emotional or psychological needs to statisfy through ownership of a particular vehicle with particular features. Reviews - New vehicles have mountains of information available to buyers, who can read about safety and reliability ratings, learn about problems from the trade press, and even price shop and compare between brands and models. Contrasted with the minimal information available to used vehicle shoppers. Unbalanced Knowledge - The seller of a used car has much greater knowledge of the vehicle, and thus much greater power in the negotiation process. Buying a used car is going to cost you more money than the value of the car, unless the seller has poor knowledge of the market. And since many used cars are sold by dealers (who have often taken advantage of the less knowledgeable sellers in their transaction), you are unlikely to purchase the vehicle at a good price. Fear/Risk - Many people want transportation, and buying a used car comes with risk. And that risk includes both the direct cost of repairs, and the inconvenience of both the repair and the loss of work that accompanies problems. Knowing that the car has not been abused, that there are no hidden or lurking problems waiting to leave you stranded is valuable. Placing a price on the risk of a used car is hard, especially for those who only want a reliable vehicle to drive. Placing an estimate on the risk cost of a used car is one area where the seller has a distinct advantage. Warranties - New vehicles come with substantial warranties, and this is another aspect of the Fear/Risk point above. A new vehicle does not have unknown risk associated with the purchase, and also comes with peace of mind through a manufacturer warranty. You can purchase a used car warranty, but they are expensive, and often come with (different) problems. Finance Terms - A buyer can purchase a new vehicle with lower financing rate than a used vehicle. And you get nothing of value from the additional finance charges, so the difference between a new and used car also includes higher finance costs. Own versus Rent - You are assuming that people actually want to 'own' their cars. And I would suggest that people want to 'own' their car until it begins to present problems (repair and maintenance issues), and then they want a new vehicle to replace it. But renting or leasing a vehicle is an even more expensive, and less flexible means to obtain transportation. Expense Allocation - A vehicle is an expense. As the owner of a vehicle, you are willing to pay for that expense, to fill your need for transportation. Paying for the product as you use the product makes sense, and financing is one way to align the payment with the consumption of the product, and to pay for the expense of the vehicle as you enjoy the benefit of the vehicle. Capital Allocation - A buyer may need a vehicle (either to commute to work, school, doctor, or for work or business), but either lack the capital or be unwilling to commit the capital to the vehicle purchase. Vehicle financing is one area banks have been willing to lend, so buying a new vehicle may free capital to use to pay down other debts (credit cards, loans). The buyer may not have savings, but be able to obtain financing to solve that need. Remember, people need transportation. And they are willing to pay to fill their need. But they also have varying needs for all of the above factors, and each of those factors may offer value to different individuals. The best time to start holiday shopping is just after the holidays, when stores are selling off their remaining overstock. Outside of that, there's no one answer. I had a 2000 Chevy Cavalier until late 2011. It worked well, but was very definitely at the end of its life. This was a low-end car, certainly, but I dispute your claim that cars last 20 - 25 years. Consumer Reports apparently says the average life expectancy of a new vehicle is around 8 years or 150,000 miles. When it came time to replace my Cavalier, I was significantly concerned about car safety and about the ability to handle Canadian winters (-40 temperatures, lots of snow). I chose a Subaru Forester as a good match for me. I could have bought one second-hand, but I wasn't willing to get one as old as five years. Car manufacturers constantly improve safety and features over that time period. The Forester is massively more capable of handling Canadian winters than the Cavalier was. If I was buying a Forester now, I'd want the EyeSight Driver Assist System which Subaru added a couple of years after my model year. The newer models score slightly higher in crash tests, too. That would limit me to 2014 or later models, and I'd be concerned someone selling a 2014 or 2015 knew something I didn't, knew they had purchased a lemon. I didn't need financing for my vehicle. On the other hand, I could have invested the money I saved, so if all I wanted was something to get me from point A to point B, my choice does not make much financial sense. But Canadian winters are brutal and car safety is massively important to me. I'm well aware that I paid considerably for this, and I'm comfortable with my decision. "As others have said, if the dealer accepted payment and signed over ownership of the vehicle, that's a completed transaction. While there may or may not be a ""cooling-off period"" in your local laws, those protect the purchaser, not (as far as I know) the seller. The auto dealer could have avoided this by selling for a fixed price. Instead, they chose to negotiate every sale. Having done so, it's entirely their responsibility to check that they are happy with their final agreement. Failing to do so is going to cost someone their commission on the sale, but that's not the buyer's responsibility. They certainly wouldn't let you off the hook if the final price was higher than you had previously agreed to. He who lives by the fine print shall die by the fine print. This is one of the reasons there is huge turnover in auto sales staff; few of them are really good at the job. If you want to be kind to the guy you could give him the chance to sell you something else. Or perhaps even offer him a $100 tip. But assuming the description is correct, and assuming local law doesn't say otherwise (if in any doubt, ask a lawyer!!!), I don't think you have any remaining obligation toward them On the other hand, depending on how they react to this statement, you might want to avoid their service department, just in case someone is unreasonably stupid and tries to make up the difference that was." I used to do the opposite when I needed to rent a car locally.  I would request the bottom of the line and tell them that I will pick up at one of our expensive resorts.  They never had any Kia Sorentos, but they had nice Lincolns and other high end vehicles for Kia prices.  I'm sorry, we don't have the Ford Escort you reserved, so I'll give you a Towncar for the Escort price. "I love John's answer, but I just can't help myself from adding my 2 cents, even though it's over 5 years later. I sold cars for a while in the late 90s, and I mostly agree with John's answer. Where I disagree though, is that where I worked, the salesperson did not have ANY authority to make a sale. A sales manager was required to sign off on every sale. That doesn't mean that the manager had to interact with the buyer, that could all be handled behind the scenes, but the pricing and even much of the negotiating strategies were dictated by the sales managers. Some of the seasoned salespeople would estimate numbers on their own, but occasionally you'd hear the managers still chew them out with ""I wish you wouldn't have said that"". Of course, every dealership is different. Additional purchase advice: There is a strategy that can work well for the buyer, but only in scenarios where the salesperson is trying to prevent you from leaving. They may start interrupting you as you are packing up, or blocking your path to the door, or even begging. If this happens, they are obviously desperate for whatever reason. In this case, if you came prepared with research on a good price that you are comfortable with, then shoot lower and hold firm to the point of near exhaustion. Not so low that that they realize you're too far away- they will let you leave at that point. It needs to be within a reasonable amount, perhaps at most 1-2% of the purchase price. Once you detect the salesperson is desperate, you finally move up to your goal number or possibly a little lower. Typically the salesperson will be so happy to have gotten you to move at all that they'll accept. And if the managers are fed up too (like 45 minutes after close), they'll accept too. I saw this happen multiple times in a high pressure scenario. I also used it once myself as a buyer. If you are planning to purchase options that can be added at the dealer rather than from the factory, keep them up your sleeve at first. Get your negotiations down to where you are a little further apart than the invoice price of the option, then make your move. For example, suppose the option you want retails for $350 with an invoice of $300. Get within about $400 of the dealer. Then offer to pay their price, but only if they throw in the option you want. This will throw them completely off guard because they didn't expect it and all of their calculations were based on without it. If they say yes, you effectively moved $100 and they moved $300. It's much more likely that they'll agree to this than taking $300 off the price of the car. (I'm guessing the reason for this is partially due to how their accounting works with sticker price vs aftermarket price, and partially psychological.) Note, this works best with new cars, and make sure you only do this if it's for items they can add after the fact. Even if they don't have the part in stock it's ok, they can give you an IOU. But if the option requires a car change to something they don't have on the lot, it will probably just make them mad." Many Web sites and articles warn against buying former rental cars,   because people renting these cars often mistreat them. Rental cars are typically driven by people over 25, these are typically people with some financial means (air travel, credit card). Additionally, rental cars are subject to frequent inspection and likely to be on tighter maintenance schedules than many owners would keep. So while some people may drive a rental harder than they would their own car, it's not typical, and not likely to result in some hidden damage that makes a rental less desirable (all else being equal) on the used-car market. Does the fact that they sell the car mean during this time suggest that they know the car's cost of further maintenance or other costs will be higher? Or is there another reason they sell at this time which, has a calculated advantage to them, but which is less than idea statistically for me, the purchaser? Rental companies buy at incredible volumes, as such, some manufacturers have programs where they will buy back used cars from the rental company at a set price and/or time. Other incentives are guaranteed depreciation, wherein the manufacturer will make up the difference if the used vehicle doesn't sell for a set percentage of it's purchase price after a set amount of time. Outside of these incentive programs, rental companies also get substantial volume discounts, and they typically are buying base models which hold value better than their higher-trim counterparts (according to KBB market analyst). So the conventional wisdom about depreciation doesn't really apply. The timing of their sales is primarily based on their purchasing arrangements and their desire to keep an up to date fleet, not on projected maintenance/repair costs. The best you can do with any used-car purchase is to test-drive, get a pre-purchase inspection, and review whatever history is available. Other than being reduced to clear as others have suggested quite a few get sold to large motor stores. You can often go in and find last years model with around delivery mileage at a very knocked down rate because most people would prefer the latest model direct from the dealer. Doing this allows dealers to clear old stock incredibly quickly so they can promote the newest model exclusively. "Yes you tell them.  I can say that I pay cash for all my cars and always get cars for lower than the TrueCar low-end.  There are basically two steps: go test drive, negotiate fully, leave (unless you are given a mind-blowing offer).  This may take you one to many dealerships.  It depends on how well you know what car you want and how much a dealership will negotiate.   you pick a night that another dealership that specifically has the car you want (or multiple - even better) is open and you go in 30-45 mins before they close.   Paying cash is key for this to work.  By the time you get to numbers they will be almost closed.  Their finance guy might be gone so you will get your salesman and a manager.  I will use my last car as an example.  Toyota Highlander 2015 with MSRB 32,995.  TrueCar at 29,795 with a good deal at 29,400.  I simply talked to my sales guy said I would like to walk out with the car tonight.  I have already talked to XYZ dealership and they offered me 28,500 - which is already below TrueCar low price.   I asked for $27,900.  Boom 10 minutes later car bought at 28,100. Cash is king.  The sales guy and manager will bite the bullet on profit for ease of sale.  Going in late is the key to using the cash.  You don't have the finance guys jumping in and you have less people to move through.  Also they know they have limited time to deal and if you walk off the lot there is less than 10% chance of you coming back - they want to close.  They are making minimal profit but doing minimal work.  With cash your sales guy is on your side because you are basically throwing him a couple hundred dollars at the end of a shift (where most would just be sitting around watching TV). Some other tips: be fair.  If they would have said 28,300 is our lowest that we can go and that's it.  I probably would have still got the car.  Dealerships will tell you their lowest price if you are close and you are still below it. since they didn't show me their lowest price I didn't budge much but still budged a bit to show good sport.   They brought their invoice number out to show that at 28,100 that they were going to lose $1500 on the car.  I made the manager laugh because my response was to bring up KBB and show the used car price for the car, which was minus $2000.  So I just said, ""Well you lost $1500 but I lose $2000 driving this off the lot.""  I then went back to $27,850 to meet in the middle of ""losing"" money.  This actually closed the deal.  Anyway don't ever believe any piece of paper they show you with numbers.  These dealerships get monthly bonuses on sales and that is a lot of their profit past selling your trade-in. If you actually value your money you would never be trading in a car to a dealer so if you are paying cash, sell your own car or at least take it to a place like CarMax which I don't endorse but better than dealer."