Is keeping track of your money and having a budget the same thing?
A budget is a plan for spending money in the future. Tracking spending is only looking at what happened in the past.  Many people only track their spending, a proper budget can be key to achieving financial goals. You might earn enough and not spend frivolously enough that you aren't hamstrung by lack of a budget, but if you have specific financial goals, odds are you'll be more successful at achieving them by budgeting rather than only tracking spending.  I'm a fan of zero-sum budgets, where every dollar is allocated to a specific bucket ahead of time. Here's a good write-up on zero-sum budgets: How and Why to Use a Zero-Sum Budget The two are closely related. A budget is a detailed plan for how to spend. Expense tracking is a tool to analyze your previous spending performance. Creating a plan for how to spend your money without any record of your previous spending--is an empty promise to yourself that you will never follow up on. Did I stay within my budget? Doesn't matter, I didn't track the spending anyway. Even if you do plan to track your performance, if you have not previously done so, you won't have a good basis for how much to expect in each category.  Most people have a general idea of how much they have spent and many budgets are formed based on that general intuition, but they are often surprised when they track how every penny is spent and look at the totals from month to month and over years. By actually seeing how much has been spent it's easier to pick the big financial drains and target them for reduction, if your desire is more savings, for example. I know people who keep a close eye on what they spend each month, but they don't allocate money in categories for the next month. They don't perform as well on reducing spending, but they often don't care. They feel like they make enough and they save enough, so why worry? I also know people who create an unrealistic budget each month because they haven't done a good job tracking their previous spending. They know what the monthly bills are, but they don't account well for variable or cyclical expenses  like repairs, Christmas, etc. Both tools are essential for maximizing your own personal finance. "What you are doing is neither one.  You are simply watching to make sure you don't overdraw, which itself suggests you might be living hand to mouth and not saving.  Keeping track of your money and budgeting are useful tools which help people get on top of their money.  Which tends to have the effect of allowing you to save.   How much did you spend on groceries last month? Eating out? Gas? If you were ""keeping track of your money"", you could say immediately what you spent, and whether that is above or below average, and why.  How much do you plan to spend in the next 3 months on gas, groceries, eating out?  If you knew the answer to that question, then you would have a ""budget"".   And if those months go by, and your budget proves to have been accurate, or educates you as to what went wrong so you can learn and fix it... then your budget is a functioning document that is helping you master your money.  Certainly the more powerful of the two is the ""keeping track"", or accounting of what has happened to you so far.   It's important that you keep track of every penny without letting stuff ""slip through the cracks"".   Here you can use proper accounting techniques and maybe accounting software, just like businesses do where they reconcile their accounting against their bank statements and wallet cash. I shortcut that a little.  I buy gift cards for McDonalds, Panera, Starbucks, etc. and buy my meals with those.  That way, I only have one transaction to log, $40 - McDonalds gift card instead of a dozen little meals.  It works perfectly fine since I know all that money went to fast food.  A little more dangerous is that I treat wallet cash the same way, logging say two monthly entries of $100 to cash rather than 50 little transactions of left $1 tip at restaurant.  This only works because cash is a tiny part of my overall expenditures - not worth accounting.  If it added up to a significant part, I'd want accounting on that." "A budget is a predetermined plan for spending allocated funds to a fixed set of categories according to a schedule. If by,  ""Keeping track of your money"" you mean you are only recording your spending to see on what it is being spent and when, then the answer is no.  A budget has constraints on three things: Schedule:  The mortgage has to be paid at the 1st of the month with a 2 day grace period. Amount: The mortgage payment is 1500.00 Category: The mortgage. Tracking your money would be as follows: 10/5/2016: $25 for a video game. 10/5/2016: $129.99 for two automobile tires. 10/6/2016: $35.25 for luncheon. I didn't like him! Why did I blow this money? 10/7/2016: nothing spent...yoohoo! 10/8/2016: Payday, heck yeah! I'm financially solvent YET AGAIN! How do I do it?! See the difference?"
"Money management is data-driven.  You've been operating on ""how you feel"" and ""what should be"", and that's why it hasn't been working.  First you collect data on how you actually are spending money.  Record every expenditure and categorize what it was used for.  Go back 6-12 months if you can.   You don't need blistering detail, in fact I adjusted my lifestyle to make that easy.  Fast food meals, movie tickets, USB cables, anything too small to bother recording, I just pay cash for that. Everything else:  check, ACH or credit card. It is not excessive to do it in Quickbooks or similar if you know the app.  Whatever is most efficient for you.  Now you have a log of what you've been spending on what in a time oeriod, and a log of your income. Congratulations, you have a ""Profit & Loss Statement"", a basic financial planning tool.   Now you can look at it accurately, decide if the money you are spending in each department brings the value and joy that fits the expenditure,  and change what you want. You may decide you'd rather save $1000/mo than run a $200/mo deficit.  Changing is simply coming up with different numbers that you think are achievable.  Congratulations, you have a budget or spending plan.   Again, data driven.  The point is, your spending plan is based on your actual experience with past expenditures, not blind-guessing. Then, go out and make it happen." Get on a written budget at the BEGINNING of the month. If you dont write down where your money goes BEFORE you spend it, you have no way of keeping track of it.  I couldn't do a thing until I got on a written budget but now that I am, I've paid off $10,000 in 7 months. "I'm reminded of a conversation I had regarding food. I used the word 'diet' and got pushback, as I meant it in sense of 'what one eats'. That's what a diet is, what you eat in an average week, month, year. That list has no hidden agenda unless you want it to. If your finances are in good shape, debt under control, savings growing, etc, a budget is more of an observation than a constraint. In the same way that my bookshelf tells you a lot about who I am, books on finance, math, my religion, along with some on English and humor, my budget will also tell you what my values are.  Edit - In a recent speech, regarding Joe Biden, Hillary Clinton said ""He has a saying: ‘Don’t tell me what you value. Show me your budget and I will tell you what you value.’ "" - nearly exactly my thoughts on this.  For the average person, a budget helps to reign in the areas where spending is too high. $500/mo eating out? For the couple hacking away at $30k in credit card debt, that would be an obvious place to cut back. If this brings you happiness, there's little reason to cut back. The budget becomes a reflection of your priorities, and if, at some point in the future, you need to cut back, you'll have a good understanding of where the money is going." You don't. My budget for the year takes my gross income and nets out tax, spending, etc to account for every dollar.  My assets (and the target of the savings during the year) are a balance sheet item. The sum already there isn't part of each year's budget. "What you are describing sounds a lot like the way we handle our household budget.  This is possible, but quite difficult to do with an Excel spreadsheet.  It is much easier to do with dedicated budgeting software designed for this purpose. When choosing personal budgeting software, I've found that the available packages fall in two broad categories: Some packages take what I would call a proactive approach: You enter in your bank account balances, and assign your money into spending categories.  When you deposit your paycheck, you do the same thing: you add this money to your spending categories.  Then when you spend money, you assign it to a spending category, and the software keeps track of your category balances.  At any time, you can see both your bank balances and your spending category balances.  If you need to spend money in a category that doesn't have any more money, you'll need to move money from a different category into that one.  This approach is sometimes called the envelope system, because it resembles a digital version of putting your cash into different envelopes with different purposes.  A few examples of software in this category are You Need a Budget (YNAB), Mvelopes, and EveryDollar. Other packages take more of a reactive approach: You don't bother assigning a job to the money already in your bank account.  Instead, you just enter your monthly income and put together a spending plan.  As you spend money, you assign the transactions to a spending category, and at the end of the month, you can see what you actually spent vs. what your plan was, and try to adjust your next budget accordingly.  Software that takes this approach includes Quicken and Mint.com. I use and recommend the proactive approach, and it sounds from your question like this is the approach that you are looking for.  I've used several different budgeting software packages, and my personal recommendation is for YNAB, the software that we currently use.  I don't want this post to sound too much like a commercial, but I believe it will do everything you are looking for.   One of the great things about the proactive approach, in my opinion, is how credit card accounts are handled.  Since your spending category balances only include real money actually sitting in an account (not projected income for the month), when you spend money out of a category with your credit card, the software deducts the money from the spending category immediately, as it is already spent.  The credit card balance goes negative.  When the credit card bill comes and you pay it, this is handled in the software as an account transfer from your checking account to your credit card account.  The money in the checking account is already set aside for the purpose of paying your credit card bill. Dedicated budgeting software generally has a reconcile feature that makes verifying your bank statements very easy.  You just enter the date of your bank statement and the balance, and then the software shows you a list of the transactions that fall in those dates.  You can check each one against the transactions on the statement, editing the ones that aren't right and adding any that are missing from the software.  After everything checks out, the software marks the transactions as verified, so you can easily see what has cleared and what hasn't. Let me give you an example to clarify, in response to your comment.  This example is specific to YNAB, but other software using the same approach would work in a similar way. Let's say that you have a checking account and a credit card account.  Your checking account, named CHECKING, has $2,000 in it currently.  Your credit card currently has nothing charged on it, because you've just paid your bill and haven't used it yet this billing period.  YNAB reports the balance of your credit card account (we'll call this account CREDITCARD), as $0. Every dollar in CHECKING is assigned to a category.  For example, you've got $200 in ""groceries"", $100 in ""fast food"", $300 in ""rent"", $50 in ""phone"", $500 in ""emergency fund"", etc.  If you add up the balance of all of your categories, you'll get $2,000. Let's say that you've written a check to the grocery store for $100.  When you enter this in YNAB, you tell it the name of the store, the account that you paid with (CHECKING), and the category that the expense belongs to (groceries).  The ""groceries"" category balance will go down from $200 to $100, and the CHECKING account balance will go down from $2,000 to $1,900. Now, let's say that you've spent $10 on fast food with your credit card.  When you enter this in YNAB, you tell it the name of the restaurant, the account that you paid with (CREDITCARD), and the category that the expense belongs to (fast food).  YNAB will lower the ""fast food"" category balance from $100 to $90, and your CREDITCARD account balance will go from $0 to $-10. At this point, if you add up all the category balances, you'll get $1,890.  And if you add up your account balances, you'll also get $1,890, because CHECKING has $1,900 and CREDITCARD has $-10.  If you get your checking account bank statement at this time, the account balance of $1,900 should match the statement and you'll see the payment to the grocery store, assuming the check has cleared.  And if the credit card bill comes now, you'll see the fast food purchase and the balance of $-10. When you write a check to pay this credit card bill, you enter this in YNAB as an account transfer of $10 from CHECKING to CREDITCARD.  This transfer does not affect any of your category balances; they remain the same.  But now your CHECKING account balance is down to $1,890, and CREDITCARD is back to $0. This works just as well whether you have one checking account and one credit card, or 2 checking accounts, 2 savings accounts, and 3 credit cards.  When you want to spend some money, you look at your category balance.  If there is money in there, then the money is available to spend somewhere in one of your accounts.  Then you pick an account you want to pay with, and, looking at the account balance, if there isn't enough money in that account to pay it, you just need to move some money from another account into that one, or pick a different account.  When you pay for an expense with a credit card, the money gets deducted from the category balances immediately, and is no longer available to spend on something else." I recently made the switch to keeping track of my finance (Because I found an app that does almost everything for me). Before, my situation was fairly simple: I was unable to come up with a clear picture of how much I was spending vs saving (altho I had a rough idea). Now I here is what it changes: What I can do now: Is it useful ? Since I don't actually need to save more than I do (I am already saving 60-75% of my income), 1) isn't important. Since I don't have any visibility on my personal situation within a few years, 2) and 3) are not important. Conclusion: Since I don't actually spend any time building theses informations I am happy to use this app. It's kind of fun. If I did'nt had that tool... It would be a waste of time for me. Depends on your situation ? Nb: the app is Moneytree. Works only in Japan. "First of all, kudos for thinking about budgeting at 21 years old.  So many people don't plan with their money, and years later wonder where it all went. You are doing a lot of things right with your budget.  You've got saving goals, namely your next car and a down payment on a house.  You are saving almost 20% of your income for retirement, which is amazing. I like the luxury fund, too.  It is good to put some money aside that you can spend on whatever you want, guilt free, because you know that everything important is already planned for. When it comes to budgeting, one thing to remember is that your budget does not have to be perfect, and it is not set in stone.  If you find that your amount for ""living costs"" (which I'm assuming includes things like food, utilities, and rent) is too low, you can allocate more money to it and reduce something else.  There is no need to feel bad if you end up having to change some things around in the budget. Congratulations on being debt free!  I would encourage you to stay out of debt.  Keep the credit cards paid in full each month, and save up for your next car so you can pay cash for that, too. Another saving goal that I would recommend adding to your budget would be an emergency fund.  This is basically a pile of cash that is available to you in case something unexpected and urgent comes up that you haven't planned for.  By having the emergency fund in place, you won't be forced to go into debt due to an emergency.  The amount recommended is usually 3 to 6 months' worth of your expenses." "I'm currently using You Need A Budget for this. It lets you track spending my category and ""save"" money in particular accounts from month to month. They also have some strong opinions about how one should manage one's cashflow, so check it out to see if it'll work for you. It's neither web-based nor free, but the licensing terms are very reasonable." It's hard to be disciplined when the money is right there to be spent. So what you should do is have two bank accounts. One for savings and one for spending. Figure out how much you need to spend per week and have your pay automatically deposit that much into the spending account and divert the rest into these accounts.  Never touch your savings account unless it is an emergency or whatever. In fact, if you really want, you should put it as a termed deposit which you can't touch. As the only thing you see is your spending balance, you'll be forced to get used to living within your means. After a while, you're going to forget that you have that savings account at all. "As others have said, doing a monthly budget is a great idea.  I tried the tracking expenses method for years and it got me nowhere, I think for these reasons: If budgeting isn't your cup of tea, try the ""pay yourself first"" method.  Here, as soon as you get a paycheck take some substantial portion immediately and use it to pay down debt, or put it in savings (if you have no debt).   Doing this will force you to spend less money on impulse items, and force you to really watch your spending.  If you take this option, be absolutely sure you don't have any open credit accounts, or you'll just use them to make up the difference when you find yourself broke in the middle of the month. The overall key here is to get yourself into a long term mind set.  Always ask yourself things like ""Am I going to care that I didn't have this in 10 years? 5 years? 2 months? 2 days even?  And ask yourself things like ""Would I perfer this now, or this later plus being 100% debt free, and not having to worry if I have a steady paycheck"".   I think what finally kicked my butt and made me realize I needed a long term mind set was reading The Millionaire Next Door by Tom Stanley.  It made me realize that the rich get rich by constantly thinking in the long term, and therefore being more frugal, not by ""leveraging"" debt on real estate or something like 90% of the other books out there tell you." In a word: budgeting. In order to have money left over at the end of the month, you need to be intentional about how you spend it. That is all a budget is: a plan for spending your money.  Few people have the discipline and abundance of income necessary to just wing it and not overspend. By making a plan at home ahead of time, you can decide how much you will spend on food, entertainment, etc, and ensure you have enough money left over for things like rent/mortgage and utility bills, and still have enough for longer-term savings goals like a car purchase or retirement.  If you don't have a plan, it's simply not reasonable to expect yourself to know if you have enough money for a Venti cup as you drive past the Starbucks. A good plan will allow you to spend on things that are important to you while ensuring that you have enough to meet your obligations and long-term goals.  Another thing a budget will do for you is highlight where your problem is. If your problem is that you are spending too much money on luxuries, the budget will show you that. It might also reveal to you that your rent is too high, or your energy consumption is too great. On the other hand, you might realize after budgeting that your spending is reasonable, but your income is too low. In that case, you should focus on spending more of your time working or looking for a better paying job. "Here is what we do.  We use YNAB to do our budgeting and track our expenses.  Anything that gets paid electronically is tracked to the penny.  It really needs to be, because you want your transaction records to match your bank's transaction records. However, for cash spending, we only count the paper money, not the coins.  Here is how it works: If I want a Coke out of a vending machine for 75 cents, and I put a dollar bill in and get a quarter back as change, I record that as a $1.00 expense. If, instead, I put 3 quarters in to get the Coke, I don't record that expense at all.  Spending coins is ""free money.""  We do this mainly because it is just easier to keep track of.  I can quickly count the cash in my wallet and verify that it matches the amount that YNAB thinks I have in my wallet, and I don't need to worry about the coins.  Coins that are in my car to pay for parking meters or coins in the dish on my dresser don't need to be counted. This works for us mainly because we don't do a whole lot of cash spending, so the amount we are off just doesn't add up to a significant portion of our spending.  And, again, bank balances are exact to the penny." Good question, very well asked! The key here is that you need to find a solution that works for you two without an overt amount of effort.  So in a sense it is somewhat behavior driven, but it is also technology driven.   My wife and I use spreadsheets for both checking account management and budgeting.  A key time saver is that we have a template sheet that gets copied and pasted, then modified for the current month.  Typically 90% of the stuff is the same and each month requires very little modification.  This is one of my problems with EveryDollar.  I have to enter everything each and every month. We also have separate checking accounts and responsibility for different areas of the family expenses.  Doing this risks that we act as roommates, but we both clearly understand the money in one persons account equally belongs to the other and during hard times had to make up for shortfalls on the part of the other. Also we use cash for groceries, eating out, and other day to day expenses.  So we don't have a great need to track expenses or enter transactions. That is what works for us, and it takes us very little time to manage our money.  The budget meeting normally lasts less than a half hour and that includes goal tracking. We kind of live by the 80/20 principle.  We don't see a value in tracking where every dime went.  We see more value in setting and meeting larger financial goals like contributing X amount to retirement and things of that nature.  If we overspent a bit at Walgreens who cares provided the larger goals are meant and we do not incur debt. Both Credit Card and Mortgage work on same principle. The interest is calculated on the remaining balance.  As the balance reduces the interest reduces. The Mortgage schedule is calculated with the assumption that you would be paying a certain amount over a period of years. However if you pay more, then the balance becomes less, and hence the subsequent interest also reduces. This means you would pay the loan faster and also pay less then originaly forecasted. The other type of loan, typically personal loans / auto loans in older days worked on fixed schedule. This means that you need to pay principal + Pre Determined interest. This is then broken into equal monthly installment. However in such a schedule, even if you pay a lumpsum amount in between, the total amount you need to pay remains same. Only the tenor reduces. Because it's a good indicator of how much their asset worth. In oversimplified example, wouldn't you care how much your house, car, laptop worth? Over the course of your life you might need to buy a bigger house, sell your car etc. to cope with your financial goal / situation. It's similar in company's case but with much more complexity.