What's the benefit of opening a Certificate of Deposit (CD) Account?
"If you've already got emergency savings sufficient for your needs, I agree that you'd be better served by sending that $500 to your student loan(s). I, personally, house the bulk of my emergency savings in CDs because I'm not planning to touch it and it yields a little better than a vanilla savings account. To address the comment about liquidity.  In addition to my emergency savings I keep plain vanilla savings accounts for miscellaenous sudden expenses.  To me ""emergency"" means lost job, not new water pump for my car; I have other budgeted savings for that but would spend it on a credit card and reimburse myself anyway so liquidity there isn't even that important.   The 18 month CDs I use are barely less liquid than vanilla savings and the penalty is just a couple months of the accrued interest.  When you compare a possible early distribution penalty against the years of increased yield you're likely to come out ahead after years of never touching your emergency savings, unless you're budgeted such that a car insurance deductible is an emergency expense. Emergency funds should be guaranteed and non-volatile.  If I lose my job, 90 days of accrued interest isn't a hindrance to breaking open some of my CDs, and the process isn't so daunting that I'd meaningfully harm my finances. Liquidity in 2017 and liquidity in whatever year a text book was initially written are two totally different animals.  My ""very illiquid"" brokerage account funds are only one transaction and 3 settlement days less liquid than my ""very liquid"" savings account.  There's no call the bank, sell the security, wait for it to clear, my brokerage cuts a check, mail the check, cash the check, etc.  I can go from Apple stock on Monday to cash in my hand on like Thursday.  On the web portal for the bank that holds my CDs I can instantly transfer the funds from a CD to my checking account there net of a negligible penalty for early distribution.  To call CDs illiquid in 2017 is silly." One reason why you can get a better rate with a CD compared to a regular savings account is that they lock you into that account for the period of the CD. You can get out of the CD early, but you will forfeit some of the interest. You also generally can't move a portion of the money out of the CD, you have to pull it all out, and then start a new CD with the portion you don't spend. You have to check the terms and conditions for that particular CD.  Some people use them to hold their emergency fund. This is the 3-6 months of expenses you set aside in case of a major problem such as a medical emergency or a job loss. The rate is better than the regular savings account, so it can come closer to inflation. The goal is preservation of capital, not investing for the future. So if you understand the risks, and the CD is backed with the same guarantees as the savings account, then it is a viable way to store some or all of the emergency fund. The benefit, as other answers have mentioned, is higher interest rates than are available compared to other comparable options.  My bank keeps spamming me with offers for a sub 1% APR savings account that only requires a $10,000 balance, for example.  While CDs and similar safe investments don't seem like they offer much value now (or in the recent past), that's because they strongly correlate to the federal funds rate, which is near historic lows.  See the graph of CD rates and the federal funds rate, here. You may have felt differently in July of 1984, when you could get a 5 year CD with an APR above 12%.  As you can see in this graph of historical CD yields, it hasn't always been the case that CDs offered such small returns.  That being said, CDs are safe investments, being FDIC insured (up to the FDIC insurance limits), so you're not going to get great rates from one, because there's basically no risk in this particular type of investment.  If you want better rates, you get those by investing in riskier instruments that have the possibility of losing value. Others have pointed out why one typically chooses a CD: to lock in an interest rate that's higher than most other savings accounts (at the expense of having quick access to your money). While most savings accounts have practically 0% return, there are high yield savings accounts out there with little to no strings that offer ~1% APY. I've personally not found CDs to be compelling when viewed against those, especially for something like an emergency fund where I'd rather just know it's available without having to think about penalties and such. Some people ladder CDs so that they're always no more than a month or so away from having access to some of the money, but for the return I've decided I prefer to just avoid the hassle. For 2.25%, which I haven't really seen, I might consider it, but in any case, you're better served by paying more to your loans. Yes. Savings accounts and CDs today pay almost nothing. They are not a way to grow your money for the future. They are a place to keep some spare cash for emergencies. I don't have such accounts any more. Personally, I generally keep about $2000 in my checking account for any sudden surprise expenses. Any other spare money I have I put into very safe mutual funds. They don't grow much either, but it's better than what I'd get on a savings account or CD.
Per Md. REAL PROPERTY Code Ann. § 8-203: (d)      (1)      (i)      The landlord shall maintain all security   deposits in federally insured financial institutions, as defined in §   1-101 of the Financial Institutions Article, which do business in the   State. (ii)      Security deposit accounts shall be maintained in branches of the financial institutions which are located   within the State and the accounts shall be devoted exclusively to   security deposits and bear interest. (iii)      A security deposit shall be deposited in an account within 30 days after the landlord receives it. (iv)      The aggregate amount of the accounts shall be sufficient in amount to equal all security deposits for which the   landlord is liable. (2)      (i)      In lieu of the accounts described in paragraph (1) of this subsection, the landlord may hold the security   deposits in insured certificates of deposit at branches of federally   insured financial institutions, as defined in § 1-101 of the Financial   Institutions Article, located in the State or in securities issued by   the federal government or the State of Maryland. (ii)      In the aggregate certificates of deposit or securities shall be sufficient in amount to equal all security   deposits for which the landlord is liable. As such, one or more accounts at your preference; it's up to the bank how to treat the account, so it may be a personal account or it may be a 'commercial' account depending on how they treat it (but it must be separate from your personal funds).  A CD is perhaps the easiest way to go, as it's not a separate account exactly but it's easily separable from your own funds (and has better interest).  You should also note (further down on that page) that you must pay 3% interest, once per six months; so try to get an account that pays as close as possible to that.  You likely won't get 3% right now even in a CD, so consider this as an expense (and you'll probably find many people won't take security deposits in many situations as a result). This: I was told by my broker that the amount of money I invest would be spread across multiple banks (which are FDIC insured) so that at each bank the amount would not exceed $250K. Has nothing to do with this: Is this how CDs offered by brokerage houses (that are not themselves FDIC insured) offer protection? If you want a CD, get the CD from a bank itself. High-interest checking / savings accounts are often a better choice than CDs today for three reasons.  At the time this question was asked, CDs were probably a better answer as rates were much higher.  Since CD rates have plummeted in recent years, and because a CD is only semi-liquid, i.e., even if you ladder CDs, an early withdrawal fee often means foregoing the interest on that particular CD which you withdrew. 1.) On the other hand, high-interest checking and/or savings accounts are very viable options these days. There are several options available that earn ~1%+ APY. It's not quite that simple, and there are a few gotchas: If you run into the balance cap problem, of course nothing is stopping you from having multiple accounts across different banks. 2.) The high-interest bank accounts are fully liquid able to be liquidated at anytime (without foregoing interest). 3.) A minor benefit is that the high-yield savings account is low maintenance whereas CD laddering is pretty hands on and may require physical trips to your bank.  (If you know of a way to automate the process more, please comment or edit.) My Credit Union offers a market-linked CD where the investment has FDIC protection if it is held to maturity, but otherwise they are linked with the S&P 500. it comes with this warning: Market-Link CDs are not appropriate for all depositors including   clients needing a guaranteed interest payment or seeking full   participation in the stock market.  If redeemed prior to maturity, the   amount received will be subject to market risk including interest rate   fluctuations an issuer credit quality. So they still do exist. Another credit union I belong to has a similar product. The risk is that if you need the money early, there may be losses. There would also not be a way to switch to a more conservative posture as the CD approached maturity, if you were interested in protecting your gains. "The only really good reason to open a line of credit is that you want to buy something that you don't have money for. That's got its own risks - see plenty of other places to see warnings about not borrowing too much. The only other reason is that you might want to use a line of credit as your emergency fund. The usual way of doing this is to keep the money in an easily acccessible savings account - but such accounts usually pay rather now interest, and there is an argument for instead investing your emergency money in a higher-interest but less-accessible fund and using a line of credit to tide you over until you can extract the money. I'm worried about the comment that you can ""deduct my interest on my tax returns"". That is usually only possible if you are borrowing money to invest. It sounds as if your banker is going to persuade you to not only open a line of credit, but then invest that money in something. Be aware that this kind of 'leveraging' is much higher risk than investing money you already own." In the US, you would probably look at a certificate of deposit (CD).   I imagine there is a similar financial product in the UK, but don't know first hand.   I think it is wise to be risk averse in this situation, but be aware that your interest rate will be dismal for guaranteed returns. I found out there is something called CDARS that allows a person to open a multi-million dollar certificate of deposit account with a single financial institution, who provides FDIC coverage for the entire account.  This financial institution spreads the person's money across multiple banks, so that each bank holds less than $250K and can provide the standard FDIC coverage.  The account holder doesn't have to worry about any of those details as the main financial institution handles everything.  From the account holder's perspective, he/she just has a single account with the main financial institution. Banks has to complete KYC. In case you want to open a bank account, most will ask for proof of address. I also feel it is difficult for bank to encash a cheque payable to a business in your account. Opening a bank account in the name of your business or alternatively obtaining a cheque payable to your personal name seems the only alternatives to me. "The key part of your question is the ""so far"".  So you didn't need a credit card today, or yesterday, or last month - great!  But what about tomorrow?  The time may come when you really need to spend a little more than you have, and a credit card will let you do that, at a very modest cost if you pay it off promptly (no cost, if paid within 30 days). I learned this when I was traveling and stranded due to bad weather.  I had almost nothing in my bank account at the time, and while I actually did have a small student-type credit card, I came really close to having to sleep at the train station when I didn't have enough for another night in a hotel. As an example, if you have close friends or family living across the country, and something tragic were to happen, would you be able to pay for a flight to attend the funeral?  What if you'd recently had an accident and a big medical bill (it doesn't take much, a broken arm can cost $10,000)?  Perhaps you have a solid nest egg, but breaking a CD ahead of schedule or taking short-term capital gains on a mutual fund will usually cost more than one or two months of interest payments." Realistically, it is CDs with longer terms or are callable.  You pretty much have to accept more risk if you want higher returns. If you are willing to accept that risk by losing the FDIC protections the next level up is probably high rated Government bonds. Yes.  In the US these are called certificates of deposit or savings accounts.  Every run-of-the-mill bank offers them.  You give the bank money and in return they pay you an interest rate that is some fraction of or (negative) offset from the returns they expect to make from your money. Since most investments that a bank makes (say, loaning money to a local business) are themselves based on some multiple of or (positive) offset from the prime rate, in return the interest rate that they offer you is also mathematically based on the prime rate. You can find lists of banks offering the best returns on CDs or savings accounts at sites like BankRate. For the specific example you gave, a CD with a 0.05% rate of return, I'd shop around some more, that's a VERY low rate of return. A more realistic one would be 0.5%, depending on the terms. As has been mentioned, CDs are good when you need to preserve your capital. What might be a situation for that? They are great for Emergency funds, which you should always have a reasonable amount of cash in. I have a set up 3 CDs with 12 month terms, each carrying about 30% of my emergency savings. The remaining 10% I keep in a standard savings account, for quick access dealing with a short term emergency. The 3 are spaced about 4 months apart, so that I'm always within 4 months of having one come to term. They have a 3 month penalty if I withdraw early, but based on the fact that I have never had to touch more than 10% of my emergency savings, I'm perfectly okay with that. What about more long term savings? Well, it depends on what your timeframe is for using the money. If it's more than 10 years, and you are willing to risk losing some of it, then by all means invest in a higher risk higher reward investment. If it's only a few years, maybe a bond fund is something that would be better. And if you really need to preserve the money, then a CD can be great too. "From my understanding, a CDS is a financial product to buy protection against an event of ""default"" (default of payment). Example: if General Motors owes me money $10,000,000 (because I own GM bonds for example) and I wish to protect myself against the event of GM not repaying the money they owe me (event called ""credit default""), I pay FinancialCompany_X (the seller of the CDS) perhaps $250,000 per year against the promise that FinancialCompany_X will pay me in case GM is not paying me. This way I protected myself against that risk. FinancialCompany_X took the risk (against money). A CDS is in fact an insurance. Except they don't call it an insurance which enabled the financial industry to avoid the regulation that applies to insurances. There is a lot of infos here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Credit_default_swap" "You'd want the money to be ""liquid"" and ready for you to use when tax time comes around. You also don't want to lose ""principal"", i.e. if you put it into stocks and have the value of what you put in be less than what you invested—which is possible—when you need the money, again, at tax time. That doesn't leave you with many good choices or an amazingly good way to profit from investing your savings that you put aside for taxes.  CDs are steady but will not give you much interest and they have a definite deposit timeframe 6 months, 1 yr, 2 yrs and you can't touch it. So, the only reasonable choice you have left is an interest bearing checking or savings account with up to 1% interest (APR)—as of this writing Ally Bank offers 1% interest in an online interest savings acct.—which will give you some extra money on your deposits. This is what I do." "Long ago, a friend of mine shared with me the ""Lakshmi rule"" which can be used for managing one's spending:  1/3rd: Save, 1/3rd: Donate, 1/3rd: Survival. Survival refers to primary needs like food, clothing, shelter, medicine, family and priority needs like travel. The word ""Lakshmi"" comes from the Sanskrit language and is often used to denote money, wealth or opulence. Its etymological meaning is - to perceive, understand, objective, observe, to know etc. As per ancient thought leaders, wealth is to be used wisely and with great care. Carelessness and misuse of it means havoc not only in one's own life but also on a community level. Rather than seeing money as a source of one's own happiness, it should be used as tool for the larger good. This will give proper fulfillment in life and helps one shy away from spending on those little things which only give temporary happiness. Having a deeper perspective to our everyday actions and situations, can help develop beneficial habits that easily helps control one's impulsive urges and distractions."