How to treat miles driven to the mechanic, gas station, etc when calculating business use of car?
I contacted Stephen Fishman, J.D., the author of Home Business Tax Deductions, to let him know that this question was missing from his book. He was kind enough to send a reply. My original phrasing of the question: If your car is used for both business and personal use, and you deduct via the actual expense method, do trips to the mechanic, gas station, and auto parts store to service or repair the car count as business miles, personal miles, or part-business-part-personal miles? What about driving the newly-purchased car home from the dealership? And his response: Good question. I can find nothing about this in IRS publication or elsewhere. However, common sense would tell us that the cost of driving to make car repairs should be deductible. If you use your car for business, it is a business expense, just like transporting any other piece of business equipment for repairs is a business expense. This should be so whether you use the standard mileage rate or actual expense method. You should probably reduce the amount of your deduction by the percentage of personal use of the car during the year. The same goes for driving a car home from the dealer. Alright, IRS Publication 463: Travel, Entertainment, Gift, and Car Expenses Business and personal use. If you use your   car for both business and personal purposes,   you must divide your expenses between business   and personal use. You can divide your expense   based on the miles driven for each purpose. Example. You are a sales representative   for a clothing firm and drive your car 20,000   miles during the year: 12,000 miles for business   and 8,000 miles for personal use. You can   claim only 60% (12,000 ÷ 20,000) of the cost of   operating your car as a business expense Obviously nothing helpful in the code.  So I would use option 1, weight the maintenance-related mileage by the proportion of business use.  Although if you use your car for business a lot (and perhaps have a spouse with a car), an argument could be made for 3.  So I would consider my odds of being audited (even lower this year due to IRS budget cuts) and choose 1 or 3. And of course never throw anything away until you're room temperature. Since you are using the percentage method to determine the home/business use split, I would think that under most circumstances the distance driven to get your car from the dealership to home, and from home to mechanic and back would be less than 1% of the total miles driven. This is an acceptable rounding error. When refueling, I typically do that on my way to another destination and therefore it's not something I count separately.  If your miles driven to attend to repair/refueling tasks are more than 1% of the total miles driven, split them as you feel comfortable in your above examples. I'd calculate the B/P percentages as total miles less maintenance miles, then apply that split to maintenance miles as well.
Firstly, thank you for taking the time to respond, let me see what I can answer to help give you a bigger picture.  * I am the rental manager but like I say, it's a small unit where the operations team is only 5 strong. We all have a hand in everything really and it was my precedent for implementing procedures in the past that triggered them to ask me into looking into this.  * Honestly, I don't think I have much of a budget. That being said, if there's a price to anything and I can justify the company spending the money, they will be fair.  From a personal perspective, I never even considered that third party software would be required for this kind of thing. If there's any you could recommend (licensed or open sourced) that would be greatly appreciated.  * From what I can tell, the people in charge want a process in which we can fully understand CSAT from both a service and product standpoint. We can use the information gathered from our service feedback to improve ourselves and we can use the information gathered about the vehicles we lease (the products) so we can market them correctly in the future. Seeing how the customer feels on the vehicle's fuel economy, performance, comfort on the driver, downtime, etc. which can lead us to marketing the vehicles better or influence what vehicles we purchase moving on.  * For the most part, I think the working processes are going to remain the same, where the customer support manager will have a more active role in getting these calls/visits/emails out to the customers and react accordingly.  Again, thank you so much for your help. Back when I was 25 and living near Kansas City, I would put 500-700 miles on my car almost every weekend traveling to other places like Omaha, St. Louis, Iowa City, occasionally Minneapolis, once to Fargo, and one longer trip all the way to Virginia... There's a whole lot of nothing out there so road trips are quite naturally long. They're also quite attractive and I still wouldn't miss an opportunity to get up and drive somewhere for the weekend. But, I have spent less money on cars in my entire lifetime than you have on this single car. I preferred then, and still do, to buy older cars for a few thousand dollars (or even less) and drive them until they die or can no longer pass inspection. Changing the oil is usually the most maintenance I'll do. Since I've spent so little on each car, I don't really care if it suffers some minor damage, or even gets totaled in an accident (which fortunately has never happened), so I would only carry the mandatory liability insurance. This is going to be much cheaper than the full coverage you will have on your car. If something did happen I would just go buy another junker. One such car I bought cost me a grand total of $150 excluding gas and gave me almost 10,000 miles until its transmission fell out. Another that I paid $100 for had difficulty getting over 60 miles an hour, but it did those 500-mile trips almost every weekend for two years before the engine threw a rod. This might not be something you want to do. Perhaps you don't want to be seen driving what one of my exes called a ****mobile because people will misjudge you. But consider that billionaire Sam Walton (of Wal-Mart) could afford any vehicle he wanted, but drove an old pickup truck. I present it as an option because it works for me, and might work for you. And my ex liked my old cars, especially the 1983 Mercury Zephyr station wagon with enough space in the back for a full size bed... Thus you have one possible way to cut your expenses significantly. The only thing left to deal with is parking and its attendant security issues. My ****mobiles have never been stolen, broken into or even looked at funny, though I have never left anything visible in them but the occasional bit of trash. Thieves don't seem to expect an old beater to contain valuables or even be drivable, and a chop shop certainly wouldn't want one. And as I noted in a comment earlier, it's possible to find cheaper monthly parking in NYC if you search carefully; the $130/month example in the Bronx being just the first one I found after 25 seconds on Google. I am pretty sure that if you do some more extensive research you can find cheaper parking that is reasonably secure and at least relatively convenient to your most common travel plans. You've got two options.  Deduct the business portion of the depreciation and actual expenses for operating the car.  Use the IRS standard mileage rate of $.575/mile in 2015. Multiply your business miles by the rate to calculate your deduction.  Assuming you're a sole proprietor you'll include a Schedule C to your return and claim the deduction on that form. On form 8829, line 20 you can list utilities paid for the home office. You have two choices: 1) You can list the entire amount under column (b) as an indirect expense. You will then get a deduction for the fraction of the amount based on what fraction of your home is an office. This makes sense if the service equally benefits your entire home. 2) You can compute the portion of the expense reasonably attributable to the business/office and list that amount under column (a). This entire amount will be deducted. Which option you choose depends on how well you think you can allocate the expense between your office and the rest of your home. For example, I have had to do this with electricity, but I specifically measured the electricity used by my office. If you think you can defend allocating a larger portion to the office, use option 2. If you would have paid the same amount even if you didn't have an office, it's hard to justify allocating more of the expense to the office than its portion of the home. If you opted for a more expensive service or otherwise incurred additional costs, it makes sense to allocate a higher fraction to the office and to calculate that yourself. The value of the car is only of interest if there is an intention to sell it aqain. I would make the following calculation: This gives you the costs per time period that the car really costs you. Now do the same with a new (used) car you intend to buy instead of this car. With the new car you also need to add the costs of buying it (sales price, plus any interests and fees if you finance it).  If the old car costs you less than the new car, keep it, otherwise get the new car. "For a long time I did just as you did. I had a car, but I didn't drive it. Even if you NEVER drive a car, it still has a cost. You still have to insure it and you still have to register it.  On top of that a sitting car will have costs. Cars are not built to sit.  I found it to be much cheaper to take a ""taxi"" then to own a car. Eventually I got rid of my car, and we (my wife and I) just rented any time we needed to go somewhere long distance.  Very recently we purchased a car and kids change things, and we want kids. SO better to do this costly move now (in our minds). But still if we travel outside of town, we still rent.  A car is, usually, not good at constant ""long drives"" as the maintenance costs get high, and they are, usually, not good at ""no driving"" as they are not built to sit still. They are best used, usually, for shorter, in town, or ""next town over"" style driving.  Keep in mind I am in the USA so ""long and short"" drives have a different meaning. A 200 mile trip is about the line we draw before we just rent. But that's our preference. Some of which is because we would prefer to take the train and rent there then drive the entire trip." The best way to do this is to pay for the entire car, including gas, insurance, and repairs, from S-corp funds, then meticulously track how many miles are used for personal and how many miles for business. If you pay with S-corp funds, you will claim the personal miles as a taxable benefit from the S-corp on your personal return. The S-corp can then claim all the expenses and depreciation on the vehicle, reducing the S-corp's tax liability. Assuming your country is the United States there is.  See schedule C line 9 and the corresponding instructions.   There are many rules associated with this, in some cases the entire purchase can be written off but typically if the truck is only used for business.  Most people write off partial usage in the form of credits for mileage. You are best to consult with a CPA once your business earns a profit.  Good luck. As far as accounting  goes, if you speak with a CPA, you may be able to reduce the business tax liability.  So... the company buys the truck, deducts it, and the adjusted gross income drops, so he'd pay less tax.  Or something.  You said anything helps, hope you meant it! "I've lived this decision, and from my ""anecdata"": do #3 I have been car-free since 2011 in a large United States city.  I was one month into a new job on a rail line out in the suburbs, and facing a $3000 bill to pass state inspection (the brakes plus the emissions system).  I live downtown.  I use a combination of transit, a carshare service, and 1-2 day rentals from full service car rental businesses (who have desks at several downtown hotels walking distance from my house).  I have not had a car insurance policy since 2011; the carshare includes this and I pay $15 per day for SLI from full service rentals.   I routinely ask insurance salesmen to run a quote for a ""named non-owner"" policy, and would pull the trigger if the premium cost was $300/6 months, to replace the $15/day SLI.  It's always quoted higher.   In general, our trips have a marginal cost of $40-100.  Sure, this can be somewhat discouraging.  But we do it for shopping at a warehouse club, visiting parents and friends in the suburbs.  Not every weekend, but pretty close.   But with use of the various services ~1/weekend, it's come out to $2600 per year.  I was in at least $3200 per year operating the car and often more, so there is room for unexpected trips or the occasional taxi ride in cash flow, not to mention the capital cost: I ground the blue book value of the car from $19000 down to $3600 in 11 years.   Summary:  Pull the trigger, do it :D" "A lot of financial software will calculate the value of operating leasess for you (bullet 2). E.g. Capital IQ, BB.   What a lot of professionals do is ""reverse"" out EBITDA/EBIT etc. for:  - non-recurring expenses (think big accounting changes, some impairments) - change operating expenses into capital leases to adjust the capital structure - occasionally change some operating expenses (e.g. options) because you are under the assumption if you take a company private that those expenses will not be relevant  The whole point is simply to see the operating revenues/expenses of the firm" If you itemize your deductions then the interest that you pay on your primary residence is tax deductible. Also realestate tax is also deductible. Both go on Schedule A. The car payment is not tax deductible.  You will want to be careful about claiming business deduction for home  or car. The IRS has very strict rules and if you have any personal use you can disqualify the deduction. For the car you often need to use the mileage reimbursement rates. If you use the car exclusively for work, then a lease may make more sense as you can expense the lease payment whereas with the car you need to follow the depreciation schedule.  If you are looking to claim business expense of car or home, it would be a very good idea to get professional tax advice to ensure that you do not run afoul of the IRS. "No, your business cannot deduct your non-business expenses.  You can only deduct from your business income those reasonable expenses you paid in order to earn income for the business. Moreover, for there to be a tax benefit, your business generally has to have income (but I expect there are exceptions; HST input tax credits come to mind.) The employment income from your full-time job wouldn't count as business income for your corporation. The corporation has nothing to do with that income – it's earned personally, by you. With respect to restaurant bills: These fall under a category known as ""meals & entertainment"".  Even if the expense can be considered reasonable and business-related (e.g. meeting customers or vendors) the Canada Revenue Agency decided that a business can only deduct half of those kinds of expenses for tax purposes. With respect to gasoline bills: You would need to keep a mileage and expense log. Only the portion of your automobile expenses that relate to the business can be deducted.  Driving to and from your full-time job doesn't count. Of course, I'm not a tax professional.  If you're going to have a corporation or side-business, you ought to consult with a tax professional. (A point on terminology: A business doesn't write off eligible business expenses — it deducts them from business income.  Write off is an accounting term meaning to reduce the value of an asset to zero. e.g. If you damaged your car beyond repair, one could say ""the car is a write-off."")" This is nonsense and just a game to squeeze more money from consumers.  A convential car needs to change oil every so often. You get a warning light in the dashboard for that in most cars.   If you decide to not change oil as needed, it's your business and your problem that you shortened your car's life.  Do you want conventional cars to stop working when oil change is due?   Basically Tesla is crippeling the car and does not let the consumer to FULLY use the car they own, if they choose to do that. You don't say what country you live in. If it's the U.S., the IRS has very specific rules for business use of a car. See, for starters at least, http://www.irs.gov/publications/p463/ch04.html. The gist of it is: If you use the car 100% for business purposes, you NEVER use it to drive to the grocery store or to your friend's house, etc, then it is a deductible business expense. If you use a car party for business use and partly for personal use, than you can deduct the portion of the expense of the car that is for business use, but not the portion that is for personal use. So basically, if you use the car 75% for business purposes and 25% for personal use, you can deduct 75% of the cost and expenses. You can calculate the business use by, (a) Keeping careful records of how much you spent on gas, oil, repairs, etc, tracking the percentage of business use versus percentage of personal use, and then multiplying the cost by the percentage business use and that is the amount you can deduct; or (b) Use the standard mileage allowance, so many cents per mile, which changes every year. Note that the fact that you paid for the car from a business account has absolutely nothing to do with it. (If it did, then everyone could create a small business, open a business account, pay all their bills from there, and all their personal expenses would magically become business expenses.) Just by the way: If you are going to try to stretch the rules on your taxes, business use of a car or personal computer or expenses for a home office are the worst place to do it. The IRS knows that cars and computers are things that can easily be used for either personal or business purposes and so they keep a special eye out on these.