What mix of credit lines and loans is optimal for my credit score?
Over time, you'll have more loans, maybe a few store cards, mortgage, car loan, etc.  I'm a fan of maximizing one's wealth, and the small rebate/reward adds up over time, so I'm not against the store cards, so long as you always pay the bill in full.  As far as FICO is concerned, what they 'like' to see may not necessarily be optimum for you. I'd suggest you go about your business, and over time use the few cards that combine to give to the best benefit combination that works for you. Please do not conflate number of credit cards with amount of debt. Consider two scenarios, The latter scenario yields much better credit scoring. Many recommendation sources suggest the following, Although your credit score seems very important, it is only important when you have financial interactions (such as applying for credit or services) where the other party makes decisions based upon the score. You should only obtain loans and credit when you want and it makes sense based upon your needs; choosing to live your life to serve credit scoring agencies may not be your happy place. I think you are interpreting their recommended numbers incorrectly.  They are not suggesting that you get 13-21 credit cards, they are saying that your score could get 13-21 points higher based on having a large number of credit cards and loans. Unfortunately, the exact formula for calculating your credit score is not known, so its hard to directly answer the question.  But I wouldn't go opening 22+ credit cards just to get this part of the number higher!
Generally speaking personal loans have higher rates than car loans.  During fairly recent times, the market for car loans has become very competitive.  A local credit union offers loans as low as 1.99% which is about half the prevailing mortgage rate.  In comparison personal loans are typically in the 10-14% range.   Even if it made mathematical sense to do so, I doubt any bank would give you a personal loan secured by a car rather than car loan.  Either the brain would not work that way; or, it would simply be against company policy. These questions always interest me, why the desire to maximize credit score?  There is no correlation between credit score and wealth.  There is no reward for anything beyond a sufficiently high score to obtain the lowest rates which is attained by simply paying one's bills on time.  One will always be limited by income when the amount able to borrow is calculated regardless of score.   I can understand wanting to maximize different aspects of personal finance such as income or investment return percentage, etc..  By why credit score?  This is further complicated by a evolving algorithm.  Attempts to game the score today, may not work in the future. "It's probably important to understand what a credit score is.   A credit score is your history of accruing debt and paying it back.  It is supplemented by your age, time at current residence, time at previous residences, time at your job, etc. A person with zero debt history can still have a decent score - provided they are well established, a little older and have a good job.  The top scores are reserved for those that manage what creditors consider an ""appropriate"" amount of debt and are well established.  In other words, you're good with money and likely have long term roots in the community.  After all, creditors don't normally like being the first one you try out... Being young and having recently moved you are basically a ""flight risk"".  Meaning someone who is more likely to just pick up and move when the debt becomes too much. So, you have a couple options.  The first is to simply wait.  Keep going to work, keep living where you are, etc.  As you establish yourself you become less of a risk.   The second is to start incurring debt.  Personally, I am not a fan of this one.  Some people do well by getting a small credit card, using some portion of it each month and paying it off immediately.  Others don't know how to control that very well and end up having a few months where they roll balances over etc which becomes a trap that costs them far more than before. If I were in your position, I'd likely do one of two things.  Either buy the phone outright and sign up for a regular mobile plan OR take the cheaper phone for a couple years." "It makes no sense to spend money unnecessarily, just for the purpose of improving your credit score.  You have to stop and ask yourself the question ""Why do I need a good credit score?""  Most of the time, the answer will be ""so I can get a lower interest rate on (ABC loan) in the future.""  However, if you spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars in the present, just so that you can save a few points on a loan, you're not going to come out ahead. The car question should be considered strictly in the context of transportation expenses:  ""It cost me $X to get around last year using Lyft. If instead I owned a car, it would have cost me $Y for gas, insurance, depreciation, parking, etc.""  If you come out ahead and Y < X, then buy the car.  Don't jump into an expensive vehicle (which is never a good investment) or get trapped into an expensive lease which will costs you many times more than the depreciation value of a decent used car, just so that you can save a few points on a mortgage. Your best option moving forward would be to pay off your student loans first, getting rid of that interest expense.  Place the remainder in savings, then start to look at a budget.  Setting aside a 20% down payment on a home is considered the minimum to many people, and if that is out of reach you might need to consider other neighborhoods (less than 400K!).  If you're still concerned about your credit score, a good way to build that up (once you have a budget and spending under control) is to get a credit card with no annual fees.  Start putting all of your expenses on the credit card (groceries, etc), and paying off the balance IN FULL every month.  By spending only what you need to within a reasonable budget, and making payments on time and in full, your credit rating will begin to gradually improve.  If you have a difficult time tracking your expenses or sticking to a budget, then there is potential for danger here, as credit cards are notorious for high interest and penalties.  But by keeping it under control and putting the rest toward savings, you can begin to build wealth and put yourself in a much better financial position moving into the future." Nobody outside of the credit scoring agencies know exactly what goes into the scoring formula. That said, I don't think there is any evidence that keeping a fixed loan (car or mortgage) open is necessary to keep its effect on your score. It doesn't improve your utilization ratio like an open revolving credit line would. And depending on the exact details of how your specific lender reports the loan, it might appear detrimental to your debt-to-income ratio.  I would simply pay it off. It may or may not be a good idea to borrow money from your family; there are many factors to consider here, not the least of which is what you would do if you got in serious financial trouble and couldn't make your scheduled payments on the loan. Would you arrange with them to sell the property ASAP? Or could they easily manage for a few months without your scheduled payments if it were necessary? A good rule of thumb that some people follow when lending to family is this: don't do it unless you're 100% OK with the possibility that they might not pay you back at all. That said, your question was about credit scores specifically. Having a mortgage and making on-time payments would factor into your score, but not significantly more heavily than having revolving credit (eg a credit card) and making on time payments, or having a car loan or installment loan and making on time payments. I bought my house in 2011, and after years of paying the mortgage on time my credit score hasn't changed at all. MyFico has a breakdown of factors affecting your credit score here: http://www.myfico.com/crediteducation/whatsinyourscore.aspx. The most significant are a history of on-time payments, low revolving credit utilization (carrying a $4900 balance on a card with a $5000 limit is bad, carrying a $10 balance on the same card is good), and overall length of your credit history. As to credit mix, they have this to say: Types of credit in use Credit mix determines 10% of my FICO Score The FICO® Score will consider your mix of credit cards, retail accounts, installment loans, finance company accounts and mortgage loans. It's not necessary to have one of each, and it's not a good idea to open credit accounts you don’t intend to use. The credit mix usually won’t be a key factor in determining your FICO Score—but it will be more important if your credit report does not have a lot of other information on which to base a score. Have credit cards – but manage them responsibly Having credit cards and installment loans with a good payment history will raise your FICO Score. People with no credit cards tend to be viewed as a higher risk than people who have managed credit cards responsibly. That seems a little high in my experience.  I've used a home equity line of credit instead, as the rates are much lower (~3.5%). That sounds like bunk too me. Even if it does, the total number of loans isn't going to be a major factor in your credit score. I wouldn't worry about it unless you have other reasons to consolidate the loans. For example, Government student loans can introduce risk into your finances in that they are difficult to dismiss as part of a bankruptcy if that ever becomes necessary. Would opening a second credit card contribute in any meaningful way to my credit mix or no, since it's the same type of credit? Yes, multiple lines of credit help your credit score, even if they are all credit cards. There are experts on both sides of this argument though. For example, Fico says that you shouldn't open a new credit card just for the credit boost, while NerdWallet cautiously recommends it. My recommendation is that if you're disciplined with your credit spending, it will help a little. If yes, is it worth it to take the hit to my average account age sooner rather than later by opening a new credit card? If you want to build up your number of credit lines, do so well before you need to use your credit to take out a loan. Not only will your credit score take a hit from the average age dropping, but you'll also have a hard pull on your credit report. As Fixed Point points out, though, you will see a larger improvement to your credit score by adding another type of credit, such as a home loan, to your credit mix. If you are already limited your credit utilization to 10%-30% then you probably won't be able to reach your goal by just adding a credit card. "Would it make sense to take a loan from a relative... Other people have pointed this out, but honestly, I'd be very reluctant to answer ""yes"" to this no matter how you completed that sentence. There's always an intangible risk to mixing money and relationships. There's a lot that can go wrong during the duration of the loan, and if it does, the consequences could be a lot greater than just a bad credit score." I have a car loan paid in full and even paid off early, and 2 personal loans paid in full from my credit union that don't seem to reflect in a positive way and all 3 were in good standing. But you also  My credit card utilization is 95%. I have a total of 4 store credit cards, a car loan, 2 personal loans. So assuming no overlap, you've paid off three of your ten loans (30%).  And you still have 95% utilization.   What would you do if you were laid off for six months?  Regardless of payment history, you would most likely stop making payments on your loans.  This is why your credit score is bad.  You are in fact a credit risk.  Not due to payment history.  If your payment history was bad, you'd likely rank worse.  But simple fiscal reality is that you are an adverse event away from serious fiscal problems.   For that matter, the very point that you are considering bankruptcy says that they are right to give you a poor score.  Bankruptcy has adverse effects on you, but for your creditors it means that many of them will never get paid or get paid less than what they loaned.   The hard advice that we can give is to reduce your expenses.  Stop going to restaurants.  Prepare breakfast and supper from scratch and bag your lunch.  Don't put new expenses on your credit cards unless you can pay them this month.  Cut up your store cards and don't shop for anything but necessities.  Whatever durables (furniture, appliances, clothes, shoes, etc.) you have now should be enough for the next year or so.   Cut your expenses.  Have premium channels on your cable or the extra fast internet?  Drop back to the minimum instead.  Turn the heat down and the A/C temperature up (so it cools less).  Turn off the lights if you aren't using them.  If you move, move to a cheaper apartment.  Nothing to do?  Get a second job.  That will not only keep you from being bored, it will help with your financial issues.   Bankruptcy will not itself fix the problems you describe.  You are living beyond your means.  Bankruptcy might make you stop living beyond your means.  But it won't fix the problem that you make less money than you want to spend.  Only you can do that.  Better to stop the spending now rather than waiting until bankruptcy makes your credit even worse and forces you to cut spending.   If you have extra money at the end of the month, pick the worst loan and pay as much of it as you can.  By worst, I mean the one with the worst terms going forward.  Highest interest rate, etc.  If two loans have the same rate, pay the smaller one first.  Once you pay off that loan, it will increase the amount of money you have left to pay off your other loans.  This is called the debt snowball (snowball effect).   After you finish paying off your debt, save up six months worth of expenses or income.  These will be your emergency savings.   Once you have your emergency fund, write out a budget and stick to it.  You can buy anything you want, so long as it fits in your budget.  Avoid borrowing unless absolutely necessary.  Instead, save your money for bigger purchases.  With savings, you not only avoid paying interest, you may actually get paid interest.  Even if it's a low rate, paid to you is better than paying someone else.   One of the largest effects of bankruptcy is that it forces you to act like this.  They offer you even less credit at worse terms.  You won't be able to shop on credit anymore.  No new car loan.  No mortgage.  No nice clothes on credit.  So why declare bankruptcy?  Take charge of your spending now rather than waiting until you can't do anything else. "Your headline question ""How do you find best mortgage without damaging credit score?"" has a simple answer. If you have all your ducks in a row, and know what you are doing, you will get qualified. If you are like a recent client of mine, low FICO, low downpayment, random income, you might have issues. If your self-prequalification is good, you are in control, go find the best rate/ total cost, no need to put in multiple applications. If, for some reason you do, FICO sees that you are shopping for a single loan, and you are not dinged." In my opinion, it generally makes sense to focus all of your debt-reduction energy and funds on one loan at a time. There are two reasons for this: It will allow you to more quickly move from 4 loans to 3 loans, and then 2, and then 1, providing you with a sense of progress and motivation. As you reduce the number of loans that you have, your monthly minimum payment obligations will be reduced.  Then, if you have a month with an emergency expense, you will have more income available to you for your emergency without getting behind on your loans. There is debate about whether to pay loans in order of the loan balance or in order of interest rate (you can read about this here and here), but in your case, your highest interest loans also have the lowest balance, so either method would have you picking the same loans first.   You have already chosen, wisely, to start with the $1500, 6.8% loans.  Send all of your $1000 to one of these loans, and continue to work aggressively to knock out all four as quickly as possible. "There are a lot of things that go into your credit score, but the following steps are core to building it: Now, in your case, you obviously have some flexibility in your monthly budget since you're considering paying down your college loan faster.  You have to weigh whether it would be better to pay off the loan that much faster, or just save the money towards buying the car.  If you can pile up enough cash to buy the car (and still leave yourself an emergency fund) it would be better to buy the car than add another interest payment.  As other answers have noted, you don't want to get in a situation where you have no cash for ""unexpected events"". Some links of interest:" "The question asked in your last paragraph (what's the downside) is answered simply; if you take out a loan and close the cards, that's a ding on your score because your leverage ratio on this portion of your credit jumps to 100% or more, and because you'll be reducing the average age of your lines of credit (one line of credit a few days old versus five lines of credit several years old each). If you take out the loan and don't close the accounts, it's one more line of credit, increasing your total credit, lowering your leverage, but making institutions more reluctant to give you any more credit until they see what you'll do with what you have. In either case, assuming you can get the loan at less than the average rate of the cards (that's actually not a guarantee; a lot of lenders will want APRs in the 20s or 30s even for a title loan or other collateralized loan), then your cost of capital will also go down. That gives you more of a gap of discretionary income that you can better use to ""snowball"" all this debt as you are planning. Another thing to keep in mind is that the minimum payment changes as the balance does. The minimum payment covers monthly interest at least, and therefore varies based on your interest rate (usually variable) and your balance (which will hopefully be decreasing). A constant payment over the current minimum, much like a more traditional amortization, would be preferable." Are you sure the payment has actually posted and isn't sitting in a pre-auth status?  If it is, it'll fall off in a few days and they're probably telling the truth. If not, and it has fully posted to your account, I agree with the others.  It's very appropriate to initiate a chargeback.  You can provide documentation showing they confirmed a cancellation, further, you can show proof that they had no intent of charging you. Good luck!