Consolidate my debt? Higher APR, but what does that actually mean?
"There's a cliche, ""out of the frying pan and into the fire"". I've never had the occasion to use it till now.  I understand some people find they have a dozen cards and struggle to keep organized. An extra percent or two seems worth the feeling of just one payment to make. In your case, 3 checks (or online payments) per month shouldn't push you to a bad decision. Twice the interest? No thanks. Just make the minimum payments on the two lower rate cards, and pay all you can to the highest rate. Do all you can to cut expenses. The only way out of this is to change your habits avoiding what got you here in the first place." does that mean that 30% of my monthly payment goes to interest? No, it's much worse then that. The APR is the annual percentage rate. An APR of 30% on $23,000 in debt that means you'll be charged $6,900 in interest for the year. You'll actually owe slightly less since you are reducing your principal slightly over the course of the year. If your monthly payment is $800, $575 of that will be going to interest. That means that over 70% of your monthly payment is going just to interest. This deal makes no sense at all! You'd be better off simply transferring all of your balances on to the credit card with the highest interest rate. You'd be paying almost $200 a month for the 'convenience' of writing one check rather than three. No, it means that each year (Annual Payment Rate) you are accruing interest at 29.8%. If your principal is $10,000, that means you are gaining $3,000 of debt per year in addition to this, excluding payments you make/interest on interest. Your question indicates you really don't have a good grasp on personal finance.  you might want to read a book or two.  I'd recommend attending Financial Peace University, but my buddy Joe Taxpayer would throw an egg at me for that.  Please take some sort of class. In the mean time, here is your plan:  Pay this off do not borrow more. No.  It means each month the total amount you owe goes up by a factor of (1+0.298/12).  So if you owed $23K at the beginning of the month, at the end you owe a total of 23K*1.0248=$23,571.  Then subtract the $804 you are paying.  If you want to think of it in terms of interest and principal, you are paying $571 a month in interest and 233 toward principle, I guess. Paying off debt with a lower interest rate using debt with a higher interest rate is throwing a lot of money away and impoverishing yourself needlessly.  Psychology can't get around that.  If you want a psychological aid, decide how much you are going to pay toward these debts and have it automatically deducted from your paycheck so you never see it. Make the minimum payment on every debt you have except the one with the highest interest rate.  Pay the very most you can toward that.  Then when it is paid off, move to the next highest.  Do all your spending out of the lowest rate card, or avoid using these credit cards until your financial discipline and resources allow you to pay all credit cards off completely at the end of each month.
"I had to apply for an American Express card, which was also rejected.   Then I had searched for a Marbles Credit Card Stop applying for credit cards/loans. Doing so is just making your credit rating worse. Credit agencies will downgrade your credit rating if they see lots of signs of credit checking. It's a sign you're desperately looking for credit, which you are...! 44.9% APR This is very expensive credit. You can get personal loans on the high street for 3-4%. 44.9% is really bad value. You're simply going to make the situation worse. Am I taking off a loan from website as amingos loans to help me build   up my credit rating Again this is 44% interest! You also need a guarantor. So you're not only going to get yourself in trouble but a family member too: don't do this! This will only help your credit rating if you pay it back successfully, which given your situation seems like a risk. Contact the Money Advice Service or the National Debt Line. Explain your situation in detail to them. They are a government-backed service designed for people in your situation. They will offer practical advice and can even help negotiate with your creditors, etc. Here's some general advice about getting out of debt from Money Saving Expert Traditional debt help says 'never borrow your way out of a debt   problem'. But this ignores the varying cost of different debts. The MoneySaving approach is: ""Never borrow more to get out of a   debt problem.""" That's really high for short term debt. Do some research, short term is lower risk generally so rates are low. I'm not gonna waste my time but it would have to be real junk to pay close to that high. Sounds like you are drowning in debt. Why not just stop paying? It will ruin your credit, but eventually you might be able to settle for much less than you owe and a reasonable interest rate. You will then have a long road to recover you credit, but IMHO this road is much longer and stressful. Hey, you are paying a high interest rate because you are EXPECTED to default. If you were expected to pay back your rates would be lower! "Ditto other answers, but I'd add there's a lot of psychology going on in a sale. If you're paying cash, you presumably have a pretty fixed upper limit on what you can spend. But if you're getting a loan, a large increase in the price of the car may sound like just a small addition to the monthly payment. Also, these days dealers often try to roll ""extended warranties"" into the loan payment. Most people can't calculate loan amortizations in their heads -- I'm pretty good at math, and I need a calculator to work it out, assuming I remember or wrote down the formula -- a dealer can often stick a piece of paper in front of you saying ""Loan payment: $X per month"" with fine print that says that includes $50 for the extended warranty, and most people would just say, ""oh, okay""." This was my exact thought when I first heard. It just sounds like inflation to me &amp; I don't understand the logic. If everyone on average gets say...a ~3% boost on their score, why wouldn't banks just adjust their standards by 3%? "Thanks for the article. A couple questions:  - Is your basic investment premise that as defaults rise, investors will demand higher rates, and thus loans will become more expensive for borrowers? Why can't the lenders include a larger reserve to offset defaults (making loans less profitable for them?), or why doesn't this just wipe out the riskiest tranches of abs? Does it have to result in an implosion in supply?  - ""Since 2009, car loans have exploded over $1.1 Trillion""- wouldn't car loans increase significantly from the bottom of the Great Recession as the economy recovered? Also, the graph shows the billions of car loans. I think you'd have to look at an inflation adjusted loan origination, as cars do not cost the same today as they did 1970, so, you'd expect the total dollar value of loans to be much higher.  - ""How many borrowers are using their cars as collateral for new debt?"" Are you asking how many are refinance their cars? I don't think this is a thing. Cars depreciate and most of the time, the value of the car is less than loan. People may be rolling over into a new car and loan but I don't think they are re-mortgaging their cars. I could be wrong but there has to be information available on this  - ""We do this through purchasing long dated 1-2 year out-of-the-money PUT options on first order stocks""- How do you know where the strike price on these stocks will be? If your very confident, you can sell a call above to offset the cost of the put. Or alternatively, why don't you buy a credit default swap on the abs tranches?" "The comments are getting too much, but to verify that you are not insane, you are being bullied.  It sounds like this is a sub-prime loan, of which you are wisely trying to get out of.  It also sounds like they are doing everything in their power to prevent you from doing so.  For them you are a very profitable customer. This might take some legwork for you, but depending on how bad they are violating the law they might be willing to forgive the loan.  What I am trying to say, it might be very worth your while! Your first step will be looking for any free resources at your disposal: Just be cautious as many ""credit representation"" type business are only offering loan consolidation.  That is not what you need. Fight those bastards!" As usual it depends, but fundamentally, an interest rate is just a function of a party's creditworthiness and the length of time the money is being lent out for.  So, no, if your credit entitles you to a 3% APR on a 60 month term, then it should entitle you to a better interest rate over a 30 month term. Perhaps not double, but better. Finding a way to pay down credit debt is important, because you're probably paying in the high teens in APR. 401k should be last resort. Have you researched other options? E.g loan consolidation  If you don't mind me asking, how did you get that far in debt? Your utilization ratio history is irrelevant to its impact on your credit score.  If you run up 80% of your utilization In January, then pay it back to 10% in March, your score in March will reflect the new reduced ratio with no memory of the 80% utilization last month. With that said, don't go around overspending just because you have 0% apr for a little bit.  Spend what you would spend with cash. This can mean a few things to me.  Some of which has been mentioned already. It can mean one (or all) of the following to me: You take out a new credit card and transfer ALL other credit balances to it. (Only good if you destroy the others, this is a 0% offer, AND you plan on paying this card off furiously.) You do the loan thing mentioned earlier. You go to a credit consolidation service who will handle your paying your payments and you send them one payment each month.  (Highly discourage using them.  A majority of them are shady, and won't get do what they say they will do.  Check Better Business Bureau if you find yourself considering them as an option.) In the first two cases, you are just reducing the number of hands reaching into your bank account.  But keep in mind, doing this is not the same as paying off debt.  You can't borrow your way out.  You can do this as part of your plan, but do so CAREFULLY. So, in general, pay to the higher interest rate.  Some contrived reasons you would want to pay your auto  loan more could be: This is more an /r/personalfinance question, but I'll give my 2 cents. No matter what, the fund you invest in is going to be subject to risk, so you could end up losing money. It would definitely be a gamble.   If you have other debt at higher APR than the loan, it could be beneficial to pay that off using extra loan proceeds. You mentioned you have a bunch of credit cards with no balance, while others have fairly high balances I would not recommend you to close the 0 balance credit cards if they have lower APR. You can transfer the balance to those cards with lower APR. Now, if those 0 balance cards do not have lower APR, closing them will reduce my overall balance and hurt my credit rating and that is true, assume that you mean overall credit line instead of overall balance. But to my understanding, if you keep the payments good and on time, that effect is only temporary, and therefore you can definitely close them.  Don't forget, paying off your balance can also lower your utilization rate and therefore increase your credit ratings, and you can focus more on that instead. Also larger number of accounts with amounts owed can indicate higher risk of over-extension, therefore you should pay off your low balance accounts first, and do not open new credit accounts until you have paid off the current balance. I'm surprised no one has picked up on this, but the student loan is an exception to the rule. It's inflation bound (for now), you only have to pay it back as a percentage of your salary if you earn over £15k (11% on any amount over that I believe), you don't have to pay it if you lose your job, and it doesn't affect your ability to get credit (except that your repayments will be taken into account).   My advice, which is slightly different to the above, is: if you have any shares that have lost more than 10% since you bought them and aren't currently recovering, sell them and pay off your debts with those. The rest is down to you - are they making more than 10% a year? If they are, don't sell them. If your dividends are covering your payments, carry on as you are. Otherwise it's down to you.