Bank will not accept loose change. Is this legal?
Is this even legal? How can a bank refuse to deposit legal tender in   the United States? Legal for all debts, public or private, doesn't mean quite what I used to think, either.  Per The Fed: This statute means that all United States money as identified above is   a valid and legal offer of payment for debts when tendered to a   creditor. There is, however, no Federal statute mandating that a   private business, a person, or an organization must accept currency or   coins as payment for goods or services. Private businesses are free to   develop their own policies on whether to accept cash unless there is a   state law which says otherwise. Yes, they can refuse loose change. Also, they aren't refusing your deposit, just requiring that it be rolled. What do I do with my change? I do not want to spend the time rolling   it, and I am not going to pay a fee to cash my change. There aren't many other options, change is a nuisance. I believe Coinstar machines reduce/remove their fee if you exchange coins for gift cards, so that might be the best option for convenience and retaining value. They cannot refuse to accept coins and demand some other payment after providing a good or service.  Legal tender is legal tender for all debts.  But until they provide the good or service, they don't have to accept it.   In this case, you want the service of depositing money.  But by its nature, they have to accept the payment first.  In that situation, they can refuse it.  There is no law that banks have to accept your deposits.  If they don't want you as a customer, that's their problem.   Consider switching banks.  Historically this was easier and some banks may still do things the old way.  Call your local banks and ask.  Perhaps you'll find someone happy to do business with you, on your terms.   As already said, some coin rolling machines will pay you with gift certificates.  If you plan to buy a sufficient amount from the place that accepts the gift certificate, this can get that place to play the fee.  That may help you, although it is obviously a limited solution.  The goal is to make it so that you only make purchases that you would have anyway.  The seller obviously has a different goal.   It's possible to buy coin sorters.  Heck, you could buy one with a gift certificate from a public machine.  Cheap ones require extra work to get the coins rolled and may jam a lot.  More expensive ones do more of the work for you.  Note that a given sorter that works better may be cheaper than another that doesn't work as well.  Cheap is more of a qualitative judgment than a financial measure in this case.   If you carry a small amount of change with you, pretty much everywhere accepts small amounts of change for purchases.  So if you have been always paying with dollars and dumping the change in a jar, instead always give the correct change (coins).  They may still give you dollars in change, but at least you won't get new coins.  And you'll use some of your existing coins.  Of course, this doesn't scale well.   For small purchases, say $1.50, you can often pay the whole thing in change without argument.  Or if something is $18.50, you might give them $10, $5, two $1 bills, and the rest in change.   If you are buying something and can see that they have little change in one of the coin buckets, offer to swap some change for bills.  Sometimes places find that easier than breaking a roll.   With vending machines, use change instead of dollar bills.  Especially use exact change so as not to convert bills to change.  They usually don't take pennies, but they're great with nickels and above.   This won't allow you to use change as a way to force yourself to save.  But it will keep your change down to a manageable level going forward.  And you might be able to use up your existing store.  I'm assuming that this isn't a fifty year coin collection that you are just now starting to process.  But if you have six months of change, you should be able to use it up in a year or so.   I tend to do this.  So I rarely have more than a couple dollars in change.  No one ever tells me that they don't take change, because I don't give anyone a lot.  Maybe $.99 here but more likely $.43 there.  Sometimes I give them, e.g., $.07 so as to get $.25 in change rather than $.18.   It's a little more work at every transaction, but it saves the big clump of work of rolling the coins.  And you don't have to buy wrappers. The bank certainly doesn't have to take it for a deposit; that's not a debt.  There have been several cases where disgruntled debtors have attempted deliberately annoying ways to pay their debts; the apocryphal example being pennies.  Courts are not likely to support such efforts since it's obvious that a) the action is malicious and (relevant to you) b) it's really on you to maintain your money in a wieldy form.  If you allow your money to become unwieldy, nobody owes you anything.   I wonder about the meta-meaning of that.  And whether, in that light it really makes sense to worry about 5% or rolling.  As far as getting rid of it, when I bought out a girlfriend's piggybank at par, I just made sure to walk out of the house with $5 in change in my pocket and unload $2-3 at every retailer, none ever objected and some appreciated.  Quarters were traded to coin laundry users. When going on transit I brought a bunch, the machines never grumbled.  I burned through the cache much faster than expected.
I was forced to give my bank permission to cover any overdrafts out of my savings accounts. Or pay the bank a fee.  After 6 months I discovered they were still taking out a fee, when I confronted them they said it wasn't the overdraft fee it was just an administrative fee.  Banks need to burn in hell. Once you declare the amount, the CBP officials will ask you the source and purpose of funds. You must be able to demonstrate that the source of funds is legitimate and not the proceeds of crime and it is not for the purposes of financing terrorism. Once they have determined that the source and purpose is legitimate, they will take you to a private room where two officers will count and validate the amount (as it is a large amount); and then return the currency to you. For nominal amounts they count it at the CBP officer's inspection desk. Once they have done that, you are free to go on your way. The rule (for the US) is any currency or monetary instrument that is above the equivalent of 10,000 USD. So this will also apply if you are carrying a combination of GBP, EUR and USD that totals to more than $10,000. I've been hearing storied from Germans that this is happening in Germany, too, but at the bank level. All anecdotal, people I've met telling me their personal stories, but they follow the same pattern. Go to the bank, try to take out a few grand for a vacation or large purchase, bank tells them they can't have that much and that they just have to do with less, even if the account balance covers the withdrawal. "Yes, your privacy is invaded, that's the law in many jurisdictions. The goal is to make money laundering and financing Evil Things harder. That's why banks are required to request proof for every money transfer larger than a specific sum. This is only a minor issue most of the time. You will have some kind of agreement with that Money Management company and this agreement (or a copy of it) will serve as a proof of your lawful reason to transfer money. It works just like that - you get to the bank and say you want to initiate a money transfer, the clerk asks you to show the ""proof"", you give them your agreement or a bill that requests you to pay or whatever else document you may have that proves that you're bound by some kind of contract with the recipient of money. The clerk then makes a copy of the ""proof"" and it stays in the bank to back the transfer until it is completed. The copy is then stored for some time and later destroyed - that's up to how the bank handles documents." "You've touched on a very abstract concept that exist partly due to fractional-reserves and directly due to currency having no base (ex. not backed by gold), money can and does just pop into existence. To answer your question, we have to understand that the criminal is irrelevant. ""Can't a cyber criminal increase/decrease a bank's holdings just by changing a number in a computerized ledger book?"" The bank wouldn't need the cyber criminal's aid, they could change their own holdings. They have their own computers after all. Money's value is derived from trust. A bank that would change its own books would be black-balled. Similarly, a bank that un/consciously allows a cyber criminal change their holdings would lose trust. If this was a small transaction, they bank bottom line is unaffected. If these scandal is large enough to affect a bank's bottom line, the difference would be noticeable and raise suspicion." "Congratulations!  You see the problem.  You can't get away from unstable currencies. The other problem is that the US will shut down anything that appears to be providing a replacement for the US Dollar.  Once a token or medallion or gift certificate or whatever starts being used outside the confines of one business or one network of businesses, it will be shut down, quickly.  It happened with Las Vegas gambling tokens.  Another more recent attempt was with the Liberty Dollar, gold and silver coins and certificates that not only had precious metal backing, but whose proponents encouraged taking them to retailers and paying with them as if they were US Dollars.  There were other problems with this idea, but it was the competitive stature of the Liberty dollar that got the headquarters raided and the main site shut down. Basically, all signs point toward dealing with currencies and their state of being systematically eroded over time.  If you do find one that appears to exist, be wary, because the rules can change at any time, and the ""money"" will be nowhere near as liquid as a proper currency." This happened to me in the mid 90's. I wanted to withdraw enough cash from my account to buy a new car and they nearly panicked. I took a bank draft instead.  I discovered afterward that they can require up to a week's notice for any withdrawl. "Since all the other answers thus far seem to downplay the risk (likelihood) of the money being seized, I figure I may as well make my comment an answer. Unless you happen to have your legal team travelling with you and your suitcase of cash, you should expect that you'll be questioned extensively, so that any sign of nervousness, inconsistency in your answers or anything you say that doesn't ""make sense"" to the officer will be used as an excuse to seize your money, and you'll learn an expensive lesson in civil asset forfeiture. The government will file a complaint against your money, leading to a ridiculously named case, such as United States v. $124,700 in U.S. Currency. Worth noting that while the outcome in this case was not in the government's favor, in the vast majority of cases, the government keeps the cash. Between 9/11 and 2014, U.S police forces have seized over 2.5 billion dollars in cash without search warrants or indictments and returned the money in less than 10% of cases.  That last link is kind of a long read, but contains cases where people with completely legitimate money and documentation for their money had it seized anyway, and were only able to recover it after months or years in court." Once, back when I had a bank account, I tried to pay a large emergency dental bill with my debit card. It rejected it as it turned out the bill was less than a dollar over what I had in the account. I thought there was enough money so I tried again, 3 times. They charged me an overdraft for each attempt even though the debit never went through. This was without overdraft protection, as overdraft protection would have allowed the debit and charged me one overdraft. I don't know the details but federal regulations have changed how they do this.  To me overdraft protection rejects any debit that attempts to overdraft my account and doesn't charge me with an overdraft that didn't actually occur as a result of the charge being rejected, but that's not how it works. I had great difficulty buying my $17,000 truck for cash.  One TD Canada Trust branch only let me have $5,000, the other branch down the street only $3,000.  They both said they were low on cash.  They kept trying to convince me to use a bank draft, but I didn't have a name or total amount as I was still shopping around.  I don't think banks carry much cash and it wouldn't take much to clean them out. The laws of the United States of America require that the federal currency issued is accepted as legal tender for all goods and services anywhere within this country.  One really has to wonder what the motivation behind this story is. VISA obviously knows that such a move is illegal. I am skeptical that there's any truth to the article at all. "You state ""Any info will be appreciated"", so here's some background information on my answer (you can skip to my answer): When I worked for banks, I was required to submit suspicious activity to the people above me by filling out a form with a customer's name, SSN, account number(s) and ID.  You may hear in media that it is $10K or sometimes $5K.  The truth is that it could be lower than that, depending on what the institution defines as suspicious.  Every year we were required to take a ""course"" which implied that terrorists and criminals use cash regularly - whether we agree or disagree is irrelevant - this is what the course implied. It's important to understand that many people use cash-only budgets because it's easier than relying on the banking system which charges overdraft fees for going over, or in some cases, you pay more at merchants because of card usage (some merchants give discounts for cash).  If someone has a budget of $10K a month and they choose to use cash, that's perfectly fine.  Also, why is it anyone's business what someone does with their private property?  This created an interesting contrast among differently aged Americans - older Americans saw the banking system as tyrannical busybodies whereas young Americans didn't care.  This is part of why I eventually left the banking system; I felt sick that I had to report this information, but it's amazing how quick everyone is to accept the new rules.  Notice how one of the comments asks you what you intend to do with the money, as if it's any of their business.  Welcome to the New America©! My answer: If you withdraw $100,000, here is what will more than likely happen: Now, watch the anger at this answer because I'm telling you the truth.  This article will explain why.  Your very question had a negative 1, as if asking what you're asking is wrong (see the absurdity)!  If Joseph Stalin ran for president in the United States, the majority of Americans would welcome him.  You have good reason to be concerned; others at this site have noticed this as well." While on a completely different scale to what you boys are talking about couple of years ago I was a relationship manager in retail banking and would on the reg have to sign away ~400k out of the tellers boxes and into the safe. After a few months of that you kind of view it as lego to fuck around with... [Australian money](https://www.google.com.au/search?q=australian+money&amp;hl=en&amp;prmd=imvns&amp;source=lnms&amp;tbm=isch&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=OquAUO2SD82ciAfSnoDgCA&amp;ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&amp;biw=1006&amp;bih=502) "As others have noted, US law says that if you have over half the bill, it's worth the full value, under half is worth nothing. I presume if it is very close to half, if even careful measurements show that you have 50.5%, you'll have difficulty cashing it in, precisely because the government and the banking system aren't going to allow themselves to be easily fooled by someone cutting bills in half and then trying to redeem both halves. I've seen several comments on here about how you'd explain to the bank how so many bills were cut in half. What if you just told them the truth? Not the part about killing someone, of course, but tell them that you made a deal, neither of you wanted to bother with complex contracts and having to go to court if the other side didn't pay up, so your buddy cut all the bills in half, etc. As you now have both halves and they clearly have the same serial number, this no real evidence of fraud. Okay, this is technically illegal -- 18 US Code Section 333, ""Whoever mutilates, CUTS, defaces, disfigures, or perforates, or unites or cements together, or does any other thing to any bank bill, draft, note, or other evidence of debt issued by any national banking association, or Federal Reserve bank, or the Federal Reserve System, with intent to render such bank bill, draft, note, or other evidence of debt unfit to be reissued, shall be fined under this title or imprisoned not more than six months, or both."" But you didn't do it, the other guy did. I presume the point of this law is to say that you can't get a hold of currency belonging to someone else and mutilate it so as to make it worthless. As he's now given you both halves, I doubt anyone would bother to track him down and prosecute him. Just BTW, while checking up on the details of the law, I stumbled across 18 USC 336, which says that it's illegal to write a check for less than $1, with penalties of 6 months in prison. I just got a check from AT&T for 15 cents for one of those class action suits where the lawyers get $100 million and the victims get 15 cents each. Apparently that was illegal." &gt; From what I hear and know you sell when you're up and buy when it's down.  That *is* how profit is attained.  However, if you're looking to *invest,* both buy and sell decisions should be made after extensive research and, generally, there should be some time between the two offsetting transactions.   If you personally decide to *trade*, which is more often and less likely to succeed (per se), that's up to you.