D. K. Khullar

Darshan Kumar Khullar is an Indian mountaineer, writer and a former brigadier of the Indian Army. He led the Everest expedition which included Bachendri Pal and Phu Dorjee that summitted the peak in May 1984. The Government of India awarded him the fourth highest Indian civilian honour of Padma Shri in 1984.
Biography.
Born in 1941 at Bassi Pathana in Fatehgarh Sahib district in the Indian state of Punjab, Khullar did his education at the Rashtriya Indian Military College, Dehradun and was commissioned in 1961. He participated in the Sino-Indian War of 1962 and rose in ranks to become a brigadier and the principal of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), Darjeeling (1981–85). He was chosen as the leader of the 1984 Everest expedition team composed of eleven men and six women which summitted the peak in May 1984 through the South East Ridge route. The team included Bachendri Pal, the first Indian woman to scale Mount Everest and Phu Dorjee, the first Indian to climb the peak without oxygen. He took voluntary retirement from the army in 1993.
Khullar is a member of the Expedition Commission of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation, Berne, Swtizerland. He is the author of several books on mountaineering and international politics and has co-authored the second book written by Bachendri Pal in 2006 about the Trans-Himalayan all-women expedition of 1997. Some of his other publications are:
The Government of India awarded him the civilian honour of Padma Shri in 1984. Khullar lives a retired life in Ambala in Haryana.